Practice Safe Sound!
Hogtunes products will play much louder than the
Original Equipment, which can be a distraction to
the rider and/or passenger. Please use caution
when adjusting, or playing your stereo
at high volume, especially in traffic.
You are a valued customer so please:
Ride Alert
Arrive Alive!
HOGTUNES
Audio Solutions For The Great American Cruiser
Designed and Engineered in Canada For
The Great American Cruiser
www.hogtunes.com
Installation Manual
692.2/Lid Kit
Reading The Manual Before Starting Will Make
This Job Much Easier
Version 1.1
Thank-you for choosing the Hogtunes Model 692.2/Lid kit! Since positive
word of mouth is the best way to grow our business, we want your new system to work as well as it was designed to. If you have any questions or concerns, we are here to help. Email tech@hogtunes.com, or call us during
regular business hours (EST) at 705-719-6361. If you still need help, please
consider a professional installation by your motorcycle dealer.
Important: The speakers in this kit are 2 ohms (2Ω) and require an amplifier
capable of reliably playing this load. If using an amp other than Hogtunes,
please consult the manufacturer to make sure the amp you plan to use is 2
ohm stable! We strive to make the parts perfect, but things can happen.
Please inspect the parts carefully BEFORE paint!
Preparing the lids for paint:
Start by removing the 2 screws on the underside of the lid that secures the grill in place. Lift up slightly on the grill and slide out.
From the magnet side, carefully remove the 2 small wires attached to
the woofer that go out to the tweeter.
Remove the 4 screws that secure the woofer to the lid and, and put
the woofer aside.
Remove the 2 screws that secure the tweeter bridge to the lid and remove. Note: there is a small rubber piece as shown in the circle below. This seals the wires for the tweeter pod so please take extra care
not to lose this part.
NOTE: Do not paint the tweeter bridge! The tweeter is permanently attached to the tweeter bridge assembly to make sure nothing obstructs the built in drainage. In the event of warranty,
Hogtunes replaces the tweeter and the bridge as one piece, and
therefore assumes zero responsibility for paint!
2
Final Notes (Please Read):
The speakers magnet is large, and powerful. Credit cards and electronics can
be sensitive to magnets, so please exercise caution in how you pack your saddlebags. Metal objects packed into your bags may end up stuck to the magnet,
so please use caution when opening the lids.
The magnet can get hot. Please consider this when packing your saddlebags.
The speakers magnet is covered by a rubber boot. This makes it look cool, but
is really there to help protect things inside the saddlebag that may bounce into
the magnet.
The woofer portion of the 6x9 was designed to work best with saddlebags
empty, or near empty..
Warranty Information:
Hogtunes speakers are warranted for a period of 20 years to the original purchaser. The saddle bag lids are warranted against defects out of the box only.
Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. All Warranty claims
must be made through the dealer this product was originally purchased from.
Speakers found to be defective during the warranty period will be repaired or
replaced (with a product deemed to be equivalent) at Hogtunes sole discretion.
Amplifiers will be repaired
What Is Not Covered:
1)Any expense related to the removal or re-installation of Hogtunes products.
2)Repairs to these products performed by anyone other than Hogtunes.
3)Subsequent damage to any other components.
4)Any product purchased from a non-authorized Hogtunes dealer.
5)Damage to Hogtunes products due to an accident or collision.
6)Paint applied to any part, for any reason
7) Speaker frames (baskets) that are bent
8) Speaker cones that are pierced or cut.
Technical Specifications:
Hogtunes #692.2-AA Speakers
Power Handling: 200 Watts
Frequency Response: 30hz-25Khz
Sensitivity : 96 db 1watt/1meter
Nominal Impedance: 2.0 Ohms
7
Don’t lose the rubber part!
Routing the speaker wire harness:
The long supplied harness with 4 wires has 2-2 pin plugs on one end, and a
single 4 pin plug on the other. In all cases, the end with the 4 pin plug will
go nearest the amp your using which typically will be your fairing.
For FLH (Batwing) Models. The harness will pass under the inner fairing
where the main wire harness passes through on the brake side of the bike.
For FLTR (Road Glide) Models, the harness will pass through the inner
fairing where the factory wires pass. Loosen the tank console and run
wires up and over the gas tank, but under the tank console. There is a provision on the front of the tank console for wires to pass. Once past the battery, the harness will continue towards the back of the bike along the
frame, and when correctly installed, the 2-2pin plugs will be beside the
back seat on the brake side of the bike. Secure the harness to the bikes factory harness’ using zip ties. Plug the brake side lid in. Run the clutch side
under the seat and plug it in.
Wiring the lids to your amp.
The 4 pin connector will plug into Hogtunes NCA 70.2-2 channel amp, or
Hogtunes NCA 40.4-4 Channel amp. If your using another brand of amplifier, you will see that the wires near the 4 plug are labeled. Simply cut
the plug off and wire the lids to your amp using the labels to identify each
wire.
Striker Plates:
Each kit comes 4 new “striker plates” that will be applied on the outside of
the lid. Use your factory lids as reference for how and where these go. Like
all other adhesive parts in this manual, clean the area first! Also remember that adhesive works best at room temperature or higher.
6
Remove the saddlebag from the bike, and put on a stable padded surface.
For obvious reasons, blankets etc on the bench will help protect the paint.
The white circle in the picture above is where a 3/4” (19mm) hole will be
drilled. This hole is where the supplied Hogtunes rubber grommet will go,
and allow the speaker wire for the lid to pass into the saddlebag. Note: We
strongly suggest putting masking tape over the area to be drilled before
making the hole. We also strongly suggest starting with a small bit, and
gradually working your way up to the 3/4” (19mm) hole.
The supplied grommet is “split” to make installation much easier once the
wire is in the bag. In the above picture, the white circle is showing a “plug”
that can easily be removed. If the only wire you have going into your saddlebag is the speaker wire, leave the plug in place. If you have a second
wire for such things as USB power, or a music device interface, removing
the plug from the grommet will allow the second wire to also pass without
having to drill additional holes in your saddlebag.
3
With the gasket installed, you will insert the factory metal strip (5 screws)
between the gasket and new lid. Re-install the 5 factory machine screws the
same way they came off the factory lid. The new lid will now be attached to
your saddlebag.
Locate the flap that came with your new kit. The metal bar that was removed from the factory flap will be inserted into the new flap in the appropriate end. There is a shorter metal bar in your kit that will go in the
shorter end of the new flap. Once done, using the 4 screws removed from
the factory flap, secure the new flap to the lid/bag.
Re-install the tweeter bridge assembly making sure the rubber part is in
place as shown on the bottom of page 2. Re-install the woofer noting that
on the far end of the wire near the plug, there is a label that indicated
brake side or clutch side. When correctly installed, the speaker connectors
are positioned so they are adjacent to the “out side” of the bag. Re install
the wires for the tweeter bridge assembly to the connectors on the 6x9
woofer.
Included in the kit is adhesive “pads” that when attached, have a provision
to secure the wires in place using the supplied zip-ties. Half the supplied
zip-ties, and half the supplied pads are for one saddlebag, and you guessed
it, the other half is for the other saddlebag.
Its time to route the wires in the saddlebag. Please do a “ghost run” of placing the wires before applying any adhesives. This will help-trust us!
For the
ghost run, have the wire from the woofer go straight to the bag, just in
front of the new flap, and “fold” the wire so it will naturally want to go
straight down. Leave a little slack between the lid and bag to give a little
“wiggle room” for when the lid opens and closes. Have the wire go straight
down to the bottom of the bag and do another fold so the wire wants to
point to the outside back of the saddlebag. Once there, do another fold to
point the wire to the inside back of the saddle bag. Another fold to point
the wire forward along the bottom of the bag, and directly below the point
where you drilled the hole for the grommet, do another fold so the wire
goes straight up to the hole. When done correctly, the black 2 pin plug can
go through the grommet hole, and hang out approximately 4” (10cm)
Once your satisfied the wires are ghost run as instructed, you will want to
plan where the adhesive pads will go, so that the supplied zip ties will secure the wires inside the bag. Note: Before applying the pads, you need to
clean the plastic well
using isopropyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT
use Acetone (It will eat plastic). With the pads in place, secure the wires in
place using supplied zip ties.
5
Remove the 4 screws (highlighted with white arrows above) that hold the
cloth flap in place. With the flap off ,slide one of the metal bars out from
inside the flap as it will be used for new lid. The screws just removed will
be re-used.
With the flap off, fold the factory lid all the way over, exposing the 5 screws
highlighted above by white arrows. When these are removed, the factory
lid will be free from the saddlebag. These screws will be used to install the
new lid so keep them handy. With the factory lid off the bike, you will see a
metal “strip” between the rubber gasket and the lid itself that the screws
just removed threaded into. This metal strip must be removed as it will be
used to install the new lid.
In the kit, you will see 2 lengths of rubber gasket material-one for each lid.
Before applying the gasket, you need to clean the plastic well
using isopro-
pyl alcohol, or similar cleaner. DO NOT use Acetone (It will eat plastic).
It
is strongly recommended that any adhesives in this kit be applied at room
temperature or higher. The white arrow below shows where we suggest you
start applying the gasket. Don’t stretch the gasket when applying. When all
the way around, you can expect to have approx 2.0” (5cm) left over to cut
off. A sharp razor knife is good for this.
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