Hobie Twixxy Assembly Manual

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ASSEMBLY MANUAL
HOBIE CAT EUROPE
ZI Toulon Est, BP 250 83078 Toulon cedex 9, France Tel : +33 (0)494 08 78 78 - Fax : +33 (0)494 08 13 99 Email : hobiecat@hobie-cat.net - http://www.hobie-cat.net
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CAUTION DANGER
ALUMINIUM MAST
KEEP AWAY FROM
ELECTRICAL WIRES
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
SOMMAIRE
List of parts..................................................2
Wires and ropes..........................................3
Part bag, trampoline....................................4
Hull assembly...........................................5-7
Trampoline fitting ......................................8-9
Rudder assembly .................................10-11
Mast
Preparation of the mast.................... 12
Jib furler and shrouds.......................13
Stepping the mast ............................14
Trapeze............................................15
Mainsail ....................................................16
Jibsail...................................................17-18
Mainsheet system .....................................19
Cunningham and righting line...................20
Safety device.............................................21
Optional equipment : Spinnaker ...........22-23
Safety & advice.........................................24
LIST OF PARTS
Hulls (2)
Front crossbar
Rear crossbar
Forward spreader bar
Mast
Trampoline
Rudder assembly (2)
Tiller crossbar
Tiller extension
Mainsail
Jibsail
Batten set (7)
Part bag
Rope bag
Wire bag
Tools required
2 #13 spanners 1 pair of pliers
Two persons ar e re commended to
assemble the boat
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3
Wires
1. Shrouds with adjuster covers
2. Trapeze wires
3. Forestay, jib halyard assembly
4. Trapeze handles, rope lock and shock cord.
Wires and ropes
3
2
1
Ropes
1. Righting line
2. Mainsheet
3. Jibsheet
4. Trampoline line
5. Main Halyard
6. Jib luff tensioning line
7. Trapeze line
8. Jib halyard
9. Cunningham
1 3
2
5
8
6
7
4
4
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Part bag and trampoline
Part bag :
1. Mainsheet ratchet block
2. Mainsheet top block with hook
3. Silicone
4. Stay adjusters, clevis pins and split rings
5. Jib furler assembly
6. Shackle
7. Twist toggles.
8. Jib clew blocks with shackle
9. Cunningham block
10. Trampoline Other parts not shown above :
Drain plugs (on the hulls) Screws for bar fixing (on the bars)
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2
4
5 6
3
7
8
10
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Position the hulls parallel on the ground approxima­tely 2.5 meters apart. Prepare the front crossbar. Unscrew the nuts off of the two 2 external head bolts. Unscrew the nuts also off of the two internal headless bolts.
HULLS
1
See drawing next page for positioning of bolts
All go round the boat and tighten all eight bolts.
Lift the right hull into an upright position. One person straddles the hull to hold in position. The other on e ap ­plies the silicone sealant (for waterproofing) around the bolt holes and on rivets.
Repeat the same operation for the other hull. Repeat step 1 and 2 for the rear crossbar.
2
5 6
Taking the front crossbar, position it on the crossbar moulding in the deck ma­king sure that the eye strap on the bar is facing to the rear of the boat and the remaining headless bolt on the cross bar fits in the hole on the deck. Insert the long external screw.
3
Pass your hand through the inspec­tion port to position the nuts and washers onto the long bolt and the headless bolt.
4
NB : Periodically check the
tightness of all 8 bolts.
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FORWARD SPREADER BAR
Forward spreader bar assembly/Montage de la barre de maintien parallèle.
It is highly recommended to install the forward spreader bar if the loaded weig ht is mo re th an 75 kg and wind force more than 3. Failure to respect this recommendation may cause structural da­mages on the hulls that will not be covered by warranty.
Identify the right side from the left side of the bar (look for the sti­ckers) and position it the right way between the two hulls. Unscrew one of the screws fixing the pad­eye on the hull and attach the bar as shown on the photo.
VERY IMPORTANT / TRES IMPORTANT
Never use the forward spreader bar to carry the boat. Use the 4 handles
(2 at the front, 2 at the rear of the boat) to carry the boat.
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HULLS
Crossbar fixation
Long bolt
Short bolt
Stainless steel nut
Stainless steel washer
Plastic washer
Crossbar
Screw with head
Headless screw
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Unfold the trampoline. Note that the side tension lines are prethreaded. Insert the front sealed bolt rope edge into the trampoline track of the front crossbar. Continue feeding the trampoline into the trampoline track and position it in the centre. Line up the grommet in the centre of the front edge of the trampoline with the dolphin striker post. This will position the trampoline in the centre.
TRAMPOLINE
Trampoline fitting
Commence lacing the rear of the trampoline. The lacing line ties off on the lacing post at the left rear of the rear beam. Pass the line around the rod and back around the first lacing post. Lead the line around the second lacing post and pass it around the rod on the first trampoline cut out. Now, come back around the second lacing post and continue towards the third. Continue all the way across the beam in the same fashion and tie off loosely. Do not attempt to tighten the rear lacing too much at this stage.
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1
Pull the trampoline to the back of the boat and insert the fibreflass rod into the rear flap of the trampoline. Leave an equal amount protruding from each side.
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TRAMPOLINE
Now lead the end of the line through the eyestrap on the rear of the front beam and back through the loop. Lead the end back through the eyestrap and apply as much tension as possible. Maintaining the tension, lead the line through the grom­met and back to the eyestrap. Next, lead the line through the grommet in the front edge of the trampoline and tie off securely. Repeat procedure for port side.
Move to the front right corner of the trampoline. Pull on the line as firmly as possible and tie a bowline knot or loop in the line as close to the trampoline edge as possible. This will enable a 4:1 purchase to be used for ten­sioning. Tie off once tensioned to secure.
Tensioning the sides : starting at the right rear corner, take the line that emerges from the trampoline. Lead it through the eye strap on the rear beam and then through the grommet/eyelet. Tie it off with a bowline knot or similar.
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Retighten rear lacing from left to right. Tie the rear lacing off securely at the eyelet posts on the right hand end of the rear beam. NB :
It is important that the trampoline lacing is kept very tight. Check the trampoline tension
on a regular basis. Remember : all ropes streches!
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RUDDER ASSEMBLY
Montage du gouvernail
Identify the right rudder from the left rudder (look for the stickers on the rudder arms). As shown, line up the rudder pintles (metal pegs on the hulls) with the rudder castings . Push the rudder castings down onto the pintles.
1
Insert the retainer clip attached to the lower pintle to lock the rudders in place. The clip will prevent the rudders from falling off the boat in the event of cap­size.
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Locate the tiller extension and secure it to the tiller crossbar using the clevis pin and ring clip provided.
RUDDER ASSEMBLY
TILLER CROSSBAR AND EXTENSION
Locate the tiller crossbar and identify the left and right hand ends. NB: the tiller crossbar (1) locates on top of the tiller/rudder arms (2). Locate the tiller connector kits and install as shown on the photographs.
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Remove the main and jib halyard lines from the ropes bags. Unroll the main halyard wire that is se­cured at the head of the mast. Using a bowline knot, secure the main halyard line to the thimble at the end of the halyard wire. Now, secure both ends at the base of the mast.
Mast and rigging
PREPARATION OF THE MAST
1
Remove all the wires from the wires bag and unroll them. Ensure that all twists are removed. Locate the 8 mm tang shackle and shackle the five wires to the mast tang, as per photograph. Ensure that the shackle is tightened securely.
If you have a spinnaker (option), also at this stage thread the spi halyard through the pulley near the top of the mast. See the spi rigging diagram page 23
2
1. Trapeze
2. Shrouds
3. Pigtail, forestay & jib halyard
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2
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At this stage, if you have a spinnaker kit,
also attach the spi ratchet block with plastic
spring as shown on the picture
PREPARATION OF THE MAST
Using a bowline knot secure the jib ha­lyard line to the small block on the end of the jib halyard wire. Now secure both ends at the base of the mast.
4
Locate the Jib furler and shackle it to the bridles using the 6 mm shackle pro­vided. Ensure that the exit hole in the furler is pointing at the furler cleat on the front crossbar. Check that the screw on the underside of the furler is tight. This prevents the outer cover from rotating.
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Wind the furler up in a clockwise direction. Leave enough furler line to reach the furler cleat.
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JIB FURLER
Next, fasten the shrouds into the stay
adjusters. To begin with, fasten the shroud about half way up the adjuster. This position can be adjusted later. The position influences mast rake. Now fasten the stay adjusters on each side of the boat. You can pull the cover partially over the stay adjus­ters at this time. The assembly of the tra­peze wires can wait until after you have rai­sed the mast.
With the base of the mast facing towards the front of the
boat, lay the mast on top of the boat. (place some pading
under the mast to prevent scratching).
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With the person on the trampoline supporting the mast, the other person takes the forestay and connects it to the stay adjuster fixed to the jib furler. Pin the forestay towards the top of the adjuster. Now, provided all the clevis pins have the split rings fitted, the mast is supported by the shrouds and forestay.
Now, ensure that the forestay wire is not twisted around any other wires and you are ready for raising the mast. Raising the mast requires two people for ease and safety. One person lifts the top of the mast to shoulder height from behind the boat. The other person removes the securing bolt from the mast base and positions the mast base on the mast ball which is located at the center of the front crossbar.
Now replace the mast base securing bolt
to ensure that the mast does not pop
off of the mast ball.
Whilst one person continues to hold the top of the mast th e oth e r then stands on the trampoline and raises the mast ensuring that there are no overhead electrical wires. When raising the mast en­sure that the shrouds and trapezes clear the rudders and do not get caught at the back of the boat.
STEPPING THE MAST
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CAUTION DANGER : ALUMINIUM MAST
STAY AWAY FROM ELECTRICAL WIRES
CONTACT WITH ELECTRICAL WIRES
MAY CAUSE DEATH
Once the forestay is attached and the mast is standing, remove the mast
base securing bolt. This bolt is only used for raising and lowering the mast
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Now the rig can be tensioned. One person can pull down on a trapeze handle whilst the other person re positions the clevis pin in the stay adjuster. Ensure that the two shrouds are pinned at the same height in both adjusters. If too much tension is applied it may become difficult for the mast to rotate freely. Check this before proceeding with raising the sail.
With the mast now secure, the trapeze wires can be fitted with the handles, rope locks and ajuster lines as shown in the photograph. Use a bowline knot to secure the line to the trapeze shock cord.
1
TRAPEZES
2
The height of trapezing can be adjusted by changing the posi­tion of the rope lock.
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Using the straps and clips on the leech of the mainsail, secure each
batten into it’s respective pocket (as per photograph). Push the bat-
tens in reasonably hard - sufficient to remove any wrinkles
from the pocket.
NOTE : it is important to relieve the tension on the battens after each
day’s sailing. This will prolong the
life of the sail.
Unfold the mainsail and lay on a flat clean surface. Undo the set of bat­tens and identify which batten goes in which batten pocket. Insert the bat­tens into the pockets. NOTE : the second batten pocket from the bottom takes the longest bat­ten.
MAINSAIL
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2
BEFORE RAISING THE MAINSAIL, MAKE SURE THAT THE BOAT IS POIN-
TING INTO THE WIND. IF THE WIND CHANGES DIRECTION,
MOVE THE BOAT.
Place the sail on the trampoline, the battens clips towards the back. Undo the main halyard wire from the mast and shackle it to the head board of the mainsail. Now, feed the bolt rope at the head of the sail into the cut out in the sail track on the mast.
3
Now, pull on the main halyard line whilst feeding the sail into the track cut out.
4
When the sail is all the way up, position the stopper on
the wire halyard so that it engages in the halyard lock.
5
Lead the halyard behind the shroud and trapeze wire and secure at the halyard cleat on the side of the mast. Do not pull too hard as you may disengage the halyard lock. Tuck the excess halyard into the trampoline pocket.
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Unfold the jib and shackle the head onto the jib halyard with the shackle provided. Fasten the clip at the top of the jib to the forestay wire. Pull on the halyard and raise the sail, fastening each clip to the forestay in the process. When the sail is raised, shackle the tack of the jib to the adjus­ter on top of the furler. Fasten as low as possible.
1
Use the jib luff tensioner line to replace the jib halyard. The tensioner line can be fastened to the tack shackle, fed up through the small block and then cleated off at the cleat on the sail. Ensure that the line is tight and cleated securely. Enough tension should be applied to remove the wrinkles from the luff of the sail. The jib halyard line can be stored in the trampoline pocket.
2
JIBSAIL
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Attach the jib clew blocks to the clew of the jib using the snap hook provided.
3
Thread the jib sheet line through the jib sheet blocks. Fasten the sheet to the top of the blocks using a bowline knot. Ensure that there are no twists in the sheet and that the sheet is led behind the mast.
4
The jib can now be furled by pulling on the furler line and cleating it off in the jam cleat. The jib will not furl fully if the jib sheet is cleated on.
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JIBSAIL
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Fasten the mainsheet ratchet block onto the top of the main traveller. The mainsheet system is now ready to be headed to the clew of the mainsail. NB : It is best to leave the top block unhooked until the boat is in the water.
MAINSHEET SYSTEM
Position the triple ratchet block and the triple top block as indicated in the photograph. Carefully follow the threading sequence shown in the photographs and you should have no problems. There should be no crossovers or twists in a properly threaded 6:1 system.
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2
Thread the tail of the mainsheet line through the tra­vellet cleat and fairlead of the traveller car and then secure with a figure 8 knot at the eyesstrap on th e aft edge of the rear crossbar.
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Cunningham/Righting line
Cunningham
Locate the cunningham line and the cunningham double block with hook Attach the hook to the tack of the mainsail. Fasten one end of the cunningham line to the cleat mounted at the bot-
tom of the sail track on the mast.
Pass the other end through one of the sheaves on the block and then
back down around the cleat.
Thread the line through the remaining sheave and then pull down on the
line to remove the wrinkles from the front of the mainsail. Tie the line off on the cleat.
The stronger the wind, the more cunnin-
gham tension is required.
1
Righting Line
Tie a knot about 35 cm from the end of the line and pass the short end down through the grommet at the contre front of the trampoline.
Then pass the line through the eyestrap mounted underneath the mast step and tie a figure 8 knot in the end.
Now, stow the rest of the righting line in the trampoline po-
cket. A knot in the righting line just above the grommet
will prevent the righting line from slipping down and dragging in the water.
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Safety device
Mast float device (OPTION)
As serial or optional equipment, the mast float devise is already mounted. You just need to fit it on your mast head (see step 3). If it is not mounted, follow steps 1 to 3 below.
This device prevents the mast from sinking in case of capsize thus allows easy righting.
1- Unscrew the four screws that are on the device.
2- Adjust the alu plate so that the holes fit the four holes on the de­vice and fix it with the screws.
3- Fix the device on the mast head using the bolt and the two washers as shown on the photo.
Safety Cord
While sailing, the safety cord on the trampoline (blue line on the photo, that may be of a different colour) pre­vents the crew from falling off of the cat, and allows easy righting in case of capsizing.
On the trampoline Under the trampoline
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SPINNAKER (Option)
Attaching the spi pole
Fix the base of the pole onto the spi pole connection fitting in the centre of the front cross beam.
1
Bridles
Next, attach the two bridle wires to each side of the bows of the boat with the shackles supplied.
2
Tension du tangon
The pole then is tensioned so it sits above the bow spreader bar as shown.
To do that, take the pole support line. At­tach one end onto one of the jib furler bridle thimble, lead it under the pole and back up to the other jib furler bridle thimble.
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SPINNAKER (Option)
Drisse, cordages et écoutes
Once the pole is attached, you can thread the lines.
1. Take the spi halyard that is attached at the cleat at the bottom of the mast.Attach one end to the spi head as shown on the drawing.
2. Take the spi luff tensioning line, and fix it to the spinnaker tack point, then through the pulley on the pole, then in the other pulley and attach the end of the line on the padeye under the pole pulley. (see photo 2 he­reunder)
3. Attach the spi sheet to the spinnaker clew point and lead it through the pulleys as shown on the drawing hereunder.
4. Tie the spi bag on the trampoline using the 4 attachment points located on the trampoline. Once the bag is attached, pack the spi in the bag.
4
1
2
3
4
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TRUMPET SPINNAKER (Option )
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Hawaïan righting system
Take the shock cord supplied in the kit. Tie it with a tight knot onto the first ring supplied in the kit. Pass the shock cord through the first pulley used in step 1, The shock cord passes then through the eyelet at the center of the trampoline directly behind the mast step ball and back into the eyelet of the trampoline. Then pass the shock cord through the second pulley used in step 1 and tie it to the second ring supplied.
Tie the 2 small black pieces of rope onto the trampolin e la-
cing at each end of the rear cross beam. To the other end of
each rope tie the small pulley supplied in the kit.
Take the righting rope (12 mm yellow rope in the rope bag) and pass it around the fixation of the dolphin striker under the front cross beam. Tie a knot in the rope.
3
1
2
Named after the Hawaiian’s who are generally pretty relaxed people the Hawaiian righting system combines
safety, speed and comfort when righting your capsized catamaran.
Pass the rope through the first ring, then around the dolphin striker post in the center of the front cross beam, then through the second ring. Fix then this rope to the dolphin striker on the opposite side and secure the rope.
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From above From below
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TO READ CAREFULLY BEFORE SAILINGSAFETY AND ADVICE
Whether on land or on the water, watch for overhead power lines . Contact with po- wer lines can cause serious injury or death.
DO NOT sail while under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs
Only sail in conditions in which you feel comfortable and where you feel confident that you can safely sail the boat. Never go out in conditions beyond your ability
.
Everyone on board should wear a life jacket at all times .
If you are in the water, remain in contact with the boat, even if it is capsized. A sailboat can drift away faster than a person can swim.
Never sail without a righting line.
Wear appropriate clothes . Wear a wet suit or dry suit in cold weather or cold water conditions.
Learn the right of way rules and when in doubt, give way to others.
When not sailing, always keep the boat pointed into the wind whether in the water or on the beach.
Read the instruction manual carefully.
Make sure everyone on the boat reads and understnads these safety instruc- tions .
ALWAYS check that the drain plugs are screwed in before launching your catamaran.
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