Hobie ADVANCE Assembly Manual

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ASSEMBLY MANUAL
HOBIE CAT EUROPE
ZI Toulon Est, BP 250 83078 Toulon cedex 9, France Tel : +33 (0)494 08 78 78 - Fax : +33 (0)494 08 13 99 Email : info@hobie-cat.net - http://www.hobie-cat.net
HOBIE ADVANCE
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ASSEMBLY MANUAL
TABLE OF CONTENT
Spare part list.........................................2
Wires & Ropes ......................................3
Part bag .................................................3
Hull assembly......................................4-5
Trampoline fitting...................................6
Rudder assemblies and tiller extension.7
Preparation of the mast..........................8
Stepping the mast.............................9-10
Main sail ..............................................11
Jib sail..................................................12
Mainsheet system................................13
Cunningham and righting line..............14
Safety devices......................................15
“Hawaian” righting device ....................16
Safety tips............................................17
SPARE PART LIST
Hulls (2)
Front crossbar
Rear Crossbar
Mast
1 piece trampoline
Rudder assemblies (2)
Tiller crossbar
Tiller extension
Main sail
Jib sail
Batten set (6)
Part bag
Rope bag
Wire bag
TOOLS required
2 x #13 spanner 1 x pair of pliers
Two persons are recommended to as­semble the boat.
CAUTION - DANGER
ALUMINIUM MAST
STAY CLEAR OF OVERHEAD
ELECTRIC WIRES
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Wires
1. Shrouds with adjuster cover
2. Trapeze wires
3. Forestay, jib halyard assembly
4. Trapeze handles, rope lock and shock cord + line + shackle
Ropes
1. Righting line
2. Jib sheet
3. Main halyard
4. Jib luff tensioner line
5. Trampoline line (rear)
6. Jib halyard
7. Cunningham
WIRES, ROPES & RIG
3
2
1
1
3
2
5
6
7
4
4
Part bag :
1. Full mounted mainsheet as­sembly with hook
2. Stay adjusters, clevis pins and split rings
3. Cunningham
4. Jib clew blocks
5. Jib furler assembly
6. hawaian righting system
7. Silicone
Other pieces not shown above :
2 drain plugs (on the hulls) Screws for bar fixing (on the
crossbars)
Main halyard wire (on the
mast).
1
2
4
3
5
7
6
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Position the hulls parallel on the ground approximately 2 meters apart. Prepare the front crossbar. Unscrew the nuts off of the two 2 external head bolts. Unscrew the nuts also off of the two internal headless bolts.
NB : Periodically check the tightness of all 8 bolts.
HULL ASSEMBLY
1
See drawing hereunder to position the screws
Lift the right hull into an upright position. One person
straddles the hull to hold in position. The other one ap­plies the silicone sealant (for waterproofing) around the bolt holes and on rivets.
2
Taking the front crossbar, position it on the crossbar
moulding in the deck making sure that the eye strap on the bar is facing to the rear of the boat and the remai­ning headless bolt on the cross bar fits in the hole on the deck. Insert the long external screw.
3
Pass your hand through the ins-
pection port to position the nuts and washers onto the long bolt and the headless bolt.
4
Repeat the same operation for
the other hull. Repeat step 1 and 2 for the rear crossbar.
5
All go round the boat and tighten
all eight bolts and 16 nuts.
6
Long Bolt
Short Bolt
Stainless steel nut
Inox washer
Plastic washer
Crossbar/
Long bolt
Short bolt
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HULL ASSEMBLY
Identify the right side from the left side of the bar (look for the stickers) and position it the right way between the two hulls and attach the bar with the supplied shackles as shown on the photo.
VERY IMPORTANT / TRES IMPORTANT
Never use the forward spreader bar to carry the boat. Use the 4 handles
(2 at the front, 2 at the rear of the boat) to carry the boat.
Forward spreader bar assembly It is highly recommended to install the forward sprea-
der bar if the loaded weight is more than 75 kg and wind force more than 3. Failure to respect this recom­mendation may cause structural damages on the hulls that will not be covered by warranty.
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Tensioning the sides : starting at the right
rear corner, take the line that emerges from the trampoline. Lead it through the eye strap on the rear beam and then through the grommet/eyelet. Tie it off with a bowline knot or simi­lar.
Unfold the trampoline. Note that the side tension lines are prethreaded. Insert the front sealed bolt
rope edge into the trampoline track of the front cross­bar. Continue feeding the trampoline into the trampoline track and position it in the centre. Line up the grommet in the centre of the front edge of the trampoline with the dol­phin striker post. This will position the trampoline in the
TRAMPOLINE
Trampoline fittings
each side.
Commence lacing the rear of the trampoline. The lacing line ties
off on the lacing post at the left rear of the rear beam. Pass the
line around the rod and back around the first lacing post. Lead
the line around the second lacing post and pass it around the rod
on the first trampoline cut out. Now, come back around the se-
cond lacing post and continue towards the third. Continue all the
way across the beam in the same fashion and tie off loosely. Do
no t
1
centre. Pull the trampoline to the back of
the boat and insert the fibreflass rod into the rear flap of the trampoline. Leave an equal amount protruding from
2
3
Now lead the end of the line through the eyestrap on the rear of the front beam and
back through the loop. Lead the end back through the eyestrap and apply as much tension as possible. Maintaining the tension, lead the line through the grommet and back to the eyestrap. Next, lead the line through the grommet in the front edge of the trampoline and tie off securely. Repeat
Move to the front right corner of the
trampoline. Pull on the line as firmly as pos­sible and tie a bowline knot or loop in the line as close to the trampoline edge as possible. This will enable a 4:1 purchase to be used for tensioning. Tie off once tensioned to secure.
4 5 6
procedure for port side.
Retighten rear lacing from left to right. Tie the rear lacing off securely at the eye­let posts on the right hand end of the rear beam. NB :
It is important that the trampo­line lacing is kept very tight. Check the trampoline tension on a regular basis. Remem-
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Locate the tiller crossbar and identify the left and right hand ends. NB: the tiller crossbar (1) locates on top of the tiller/rudder arms (2).
Identify the right rudder from the left rudder (look for the stickers on the rudder arms). As shown,
line up the rudder pintles (metal pegs on the hulls) with the rudder castings . Push the rudder cas­tings down onto the pintles.
RUDDER ASSEMBLY AND TILLER EXTENSION
Rudder assembly
1
Insert the retainer clip attached to the lower pintle to lock
the rudders in place. The clip will prevent the rudders from
falling off the boat in the event of capsize.
2
Locate the tiller extension and secure it to the tiller crossbar using the clevis pin and ring clip provided.
Tiller crossbar and extension
4
1
2
5
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Remove the main and jib halyard lines from the ropes bags.
Unroll the main halyard wire that is secured at the head of the mast. Using a bowline knot, secure the main halyard line to the thimble at the end of the halyard wire. Now, secure both ends at the base of the mast.
Mast & rigging
MAST PREPARATION
1
Remove all the wires from the wires bag and unroll them.
They are all already mounted on the 8 mm shackle. Ensure
that all twists are removed.
Tighten the shackle securely on the mast tang.
2
1. Trapezes
2. Shrouds
3. Pigtail, forestay and jib halyard
1
1
2
2
3
Using a bowline knot secure the jib halyard line to the small block on the end of the jib halyard wire. Now secure both
ends at the base of the mast.
3
Locate the Jib furler and shackle it to the bridles
using the 6 mm shackle provided. Ensure that the exit hole in the furler is pointing at the furler cleat on the front crossbar. Check that the screw on the under­side of the furler is tight. This prevents the outer cover from rotating.
4
Wind the furler up in a clockwise direc-
tion. Leave enough furler line to reach
the furler cleat.
5
Jib furler
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With the base of the mast facing towards the front of the boat, lay the mast on top of the boat. (place some pading under the mast to prevent
scratching).
Next, fasten the shrouds into the stay ad-
justers. To begin with, fasten the shroud
about half way up the adjuster. This posi-
tion can be adjusted later. The position in-
fluences mast rake. Now fasten the stay
adjusters on each side of the boat. You
can pull the cover partially over the stay
adjusters at this time. The assembly of the
trapeze wires can wait until after you have
raised the mast.
RAISING THE MAST
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7
Now, ensure that the forestay wire is not twisted around any other wires and you are ready for raising the mast. For safety, two people should raise the mast. One person now takes the head of the mast while the other person po­sitions the base on the mast step ball, which is in the center of the front cross beam. Remove the nut and bolt from the mast base for the mast to sit on the ball. Once fitted replace the bolt and nut. This will ensure the mast does not ‘pop off’ of the mast step ball.
8
Once the mast is standing and the wires all attached remove the nut and bolt from the mast base. This is only necessary for raising and lowering the mast.
10
CAUTION ALUMINIUM MAST -
WATCH FOR OVERHEAD POWER LINES.
Contact with power lines can cause serious injury or death.
With the person on the trampoline
supporting the mast, the other per-
son takes the forestay and connects
it to the stay adjuster fixed to the jib
furler. Pin the forestay towards the top of the adjuster. Now, provided
all the clevis pins have the split rings
fitted, the mast is supported by the
shrouds and forestay.
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With the mast now secure, the trapeze wires can be fitted with the handles, rope locks and ajuster lines as shown in the photograph. Use a bowline knot to secure the line to the trapeze shock cord.
Now the rig can be tensioned. One person can pull down on a trapeze handle whilst the other person re positions the clevis pin in the stay adjuster. Ensure that the two shrouds are pinned at the same height in both adjusters. If too much tension is applied it may become difficult for the mast to rotate freely. Check this before proceeding with raising the sail.
11
RAISING THE MAST
Fitting of trapezes
12
The height of trapezing can be adjusted by changing the posi­tion of the rope lock.
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Unfold the mainsail and lay on a
flat clean surface. Undo the set of battens and identify which batten goes in which batten pocket. Insert the bat­tens into the pockets. NOTE : the second batten pocket from the bottom takes the longest batten.
Using the straps and clips on the leech of the mainsail, secure each batten into it’s respective pocket (as per
photograph). Push the battens in reasonably hard - sufficient to remove any wrinkles from the pocket. NOTE : it is important to relieve the tension on the battens after each day’s sailing. This will prolong the life of the sail.
MAIN SAIL
1
2
BEFORE RAISING THE MAINSAIL, MAKE SURE THAT THE BOAT IS POINTING INTO THE WIND.
IF THE WIND CHANGES DIRECTION, MOVE THE BOAT.
Place the sail on the trampoline, the battens clips to-
wards the back. Undo the main halyard wire from the mast and shackle it to the head board of the mainsail. Now, feed the bolt rope at the head of the sail into the cut out in the sail track on the mast.
3
Now, pull on the main halyard line whilst feeding the sail
into the track cut out.
4
When the sail is all the way up,
position the stopper on the
wire halyard so that it engages
in the halyard lock.
5
Lead the halyard behind the shroud and trapeze wire and
secure at the halyard cleat on the side of the mast. Do not pull too hard as you may disengage the halyard lock. Tuck the excess halyard into the trampoline pocket.
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Unfold the jib and shackle the head onto the jib halyard with the shackle
provided. Fasten the clip at the top of the jib to the forestay wire. Pull on the halyard and raise the sail, fastening each clip to the forestay in the process. When the sail is raised, shackle the tack of the jib to the adjuster on top of the furler. Fasten as low as possible.
1
Use the jib luff tensioner line to re-
place the jib halyard. The tensioner
line can be fastened to the tack sha-
ckle, fed up through the small block
and then cleated off at the cleat on
the sail. Ensure that the line is tight
and cleated securely. Enough ten-
sion should be applied to remove
the wrinkles from the luff of the sail.
The jib halyard line can be stored in
the trampoline pocket.
2
JIB
Thread the jib sheet line through the jib sheet blocks. Fasten the sheet to the top of the blocks using a bowline knot. Ensure that there are no twists in the sheet and that the sheet is led behind the mast.
4
Attach the jib clew blocks to the clew of the jib using the snap hook provi­ded.
3
The jib can now be furled
by pulling on the furler line and
cleating it off in the jam cleat.
The jib will not furl fully if the jib
sheet is cleated on.
5
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Fasten the mainsheet ratchet block onto the top of the main traveller with the clevis pin and split ring supplied. The main­sheet system is now ready to be headed to the clew of the mainsail. NB : It is best to leave the top block unhooked until the boat is in the water.
MAINSHEET SYSTEM
2
Thread the tail of the mainsheet line through the cleat and fairlead on the crossbar, through the traveller car and then secure with a figure 8 knot at the eyesstrap on the aft edge of the rear crossbar.
3
The mainsheet system is already mounted when delivered with the boat.
For information, hereunder is how it is mounted. Position the triple ratchet block and the triple top block
as indicated in the photograph. Carefully follow the threading sequence shown in the photographs and you should have no problems. There should be no crossovers or twists in a properly threa­ded 6:1 system.
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Righting Line / Bout de redressement
Tie a knot about 35 cm from the end of the line and pass the short end down through the grom­met at the contre front of the trampoline.
Then pass the line through the eyestrap mounted underneath the mast step and tie a figure 8 knot in the end.
Now, stow the rest of the righting line in the trampoline pocket.
A knot in the righting line just above the grom­met will prevent the righting line from slipping down and dragging in the water.
Cunningham
Locate the cunningham line and the cunningham
double block with hook
Attach the hook to the tack of the mainsail.
Fasten one end of the cunningham line to the cleat
mounted at the bottom of the sail track on the mast.
Pass the other end through one of the sheaves on
the block and then back down around the cleat.
Thread the line through the remaining sheave and
then pull down on the line to remove the wrinkles from the front of the mainsail. Tie the line off on the cleat.
The stronger the wind, the more cunningham ten-
sion is required.
Cunningham/Righting Line
1
2
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Safety devices
Mast float device (OPTION)
This device prevents the mast from sinking in case of capsize thus allows easy righting.
1- Unscrew the four screws that are on the device.
2- Adjust the alu plate so that the holes fit the four holes on the device and fix it with the screws.
3- Fix the device on the mast head using the bolt and the two washers as shown on the photo.
Safety cords
While sailing, the safety cord on the trampoline (blue line on the photo, that may be of a diffe­rent colour) prevents the crew from falling off of the cat, and allows easy righting in case of capsizing.
The red cord on the rear crossbar permit to tow the boat on the water.
on the trampoline Under the trampoline Towing cord
As serial or optional equipment, the mast float devise is already mounted. You just need to fit it on your mast head (see step 3). If it is not mounted, follow steps 1 to 3 below.
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“Hawaïan” righting system
Take the shock cord supplied in the kit. Tie it with a tight knot onto the first ring supplied in the kit. Pass the shock cord through the first pulley used in step 1, The shock cord passes then through the eyelet at the center of the trampoline directly behind the mast step ball and back into the eye­let of the trampoline. Then pass the shock cord through the sec on d pu lle y use d in step 1 an d tie it to the second ring supplied.
Tie the 2 small black pieces of rope onto the trampoline la-
cing at each end of the rear cross beam. To the other end of
each rope tie the small pulley supplied in the kit.
Take the righting rope (12 mm yellow rope in the rope bag) and pass it through one of the pad-eyes mounted under the front cross beam. Tie a knot in the rope so the end of the rope cannot pass through the pad­eye. The knot should be on the front end of the boat.
3
1
2
Named after the Hawaiian’s who are generally pretty relaxed people the Hawaiian righting system combines
safety, speed and comfort when righting your capsized catamaran.
Pass the rope through the first ring, then through the ring in the center of the front cross beam, then through the second ring. Fix then this rope to the pad­eye on the opposite side and secure the rope as per step 1.
4
From above From below
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Whether on land or on the water, watch for overhead power lines . Contact with power lines can cause serious injury or death.
DO NOT
sail while under the influence of alcohol and/or drugs
Only sail in conditions in which you feel comfortable and where you feel confident that you can safely sail the boat. Never go out in conditions beyond your ability
.
Everyone on board should wear a life jacket at all times
.
If you are in the water, remain in contact with the boat, even if it is capsized. A sailboat can drift away faster than a person can swim.
Never sail without a righting line.Wear appropriate clothes
. Wear a wet suit or dry suit in cold weather or cold water conditions.
Learn the right of way rules
and when in doubt, give way to others.
When not sailing, always keep the boat pointed into the wind
whether in the w at er or on the
beach.
Read the instruction manual carefully.Make sure everyone on the boat reads and understnads these safety instructions
.
ALWAYS
check that the drain plugs are screwed in before launching your catamaran.
CAUTION / SAFETY TIPS
READ CAREFULLY BEFORE SAILING
SAFETY TIPS
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