Hobie 18 SX, 18 SE User Manual

WELCOME TO THE
HOBIE WAY OF LIFE
Congratulations on the purchase of your new HOBIE 18’ and welcome to the HOBIE® sailing family. The HOBIE 18 cannot be
outgrown. A single adult can sail it at top performance - and a crew of four can cruise in comfort.
We offer this manual as a guide to increased safety and enjoyment of your new boat. The purpose of this publication is to
provide easy, simple and accurate instructions on how to get your Hobie 18’ ready for the water. Please read them carefully
and familiarize yourself with the boat and all of the parts spread before you.
Whether you are a new sailor or a veteran of many years, we recommend that you read this thoroughly before your first sail
many excellent books, videos and courses on the safe handling of small sailboats. We suggest that you contact your local
sailboat dealer, college or Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommendations.
Watch for overhead wires whenever you are rigging, launching, sailing or trailering with the mast up. CONTACT OF THE
MAST WITH POWER LINES COULD BE FATAL! Be certain that the rigging area and the area that you will be sailing in are
free of overhead power lines. Report any such power lines to your local power authority and sail elsewhere.
We take pride in presenting the Hobie 18’ to you and hope that you'll take as much pride in owning her.
Fair winds and good sailing!
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This assembly manual takes you step­by-step through the setting-up and sailing of your new HOBIE 18.
This manual will help you understand each part in detail.
Note that this manual applies for
both Hobie 18 SE and SX models.
Setting up your HOBIE 18 PAGE
Packaging Layout.................................2
Framing the Hulls .................................3
Installing the Trampoline ...................4-6
Mast Assembly..................................7-8
Stepping the Mast ...........................9-11
Installing the Boom.............................11
Installing the Jib Blocks ......................11
Rudders and Tiller Cross Bar........12-13
Raising the Main Sail ....................14-15
Raising the Jib....................................16
Dagger Boards ...................................17
Illustrations....................................18-25
Sailing your HOBIE 18................PAGE
Balancing the boat ...................................26
Steering ....................................................26
Sail power.................................................26
Turning......................................................27
Launching.................................................27
Righting the boat ................................27-28
Docking and landing ................................28
Rudder tuning .....................................28-29
Trailering...................................................29
Maintenance.............................................29
Mooring.....................................................30
Hobie Class Associations........................30
Safety tips ..................................Back page
HOBIE 18 ASSEMBLY MANUAL
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Packaging Layout
1. Port Hull
2. Starboard Hull
3. Back Bar
4. Boom
5. Tiller Cross Bar
6. Front Bar
7. Battens
8. Rigkit Box #1
9. Rigkit Box # 2
10. Rudders
11. Daggerboards
12. Sail Main and Jib
13. Trampoline
14. Mast (not shown)
Hobie Cat 18 SE Rig Kit Box #1 (fig 2)
Description Quantity
1. Shrouds, Forestay 2,1
2. 7/16” Mainsheet 48’ 1
3. 5/16” Jib Sheet 45’ 1
4. 1/4” Trampoline Lacing - Center 1
5. 1/4” Trampoline Lacing - Aft 2
6. Jib Luff Tensioner 2” 1
7. Jib Halyard Line 20” 1
8. Mainsheet Block Assembly 1
9. Jib Sheet Block 2
10. Jib Furling Assembly w/line 17” 1
Figure 1
Figure 3
Figure 2
See page 25 for descriptions
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Framing the Hulls
(Recommend two people) Tools-HEX wrench (provided) and a screwdriver with a 1 /4" head.
Retaining Channel 8 Front Bar Inboard Bolt 3 3/4" 2 Front Bar Outboard Bolt 2" 2 Rear Cross Bar Inboard Bolt 2 1/ 2" 2 Rear Cross Bar Outboard Bolt 2" 2 Lock Nuts for 802-359 Outboard Bolts 4
1. Place the boxes on level ground with the seams facing up. Cut the bands and open the lid. Remove the sail, trampoline, rig kits, (two boxes), dagger boards, rudders, and metal work modular packages. See Figure
1.
1. The dagger board and rudder are in cardboard
sleeves on each side of the hull.
2. Leave the hulls in the end pieces so that they will be supported in the upright position while being framed.
3. Place the hulls 8 feet apart with the metal trampoline track facing the inside.
4. Place the backbar across the aft saddles with the traveler at the back.
5. Locate the bar firmly in the saddles and insert the aft inboard bolt assembly under the port rail. *See Figure 4. Start the bolt by hand to insure proper engagement. Do not start the bolt with the hex wrench as you might cross thread the internal assembly. If the bolt has trouble advancing into the bar do the following;
a. Rock the hull with quick movements as you turn the bolt. b. Double check the bars alignment with the saddle. c. Have another person lift and lower the bow as you turn the bolt. If you are still having trouble advancing the bolt remove the back bar from the boat and try the bolt in it. Look for
metal chips or dirt particles inside the bar which could be hindering the bolt's progress. *Port refers to left, starboard refers to right.
IMPORTANT
Read this before framing the hulls.
Prior to inserting each crossbar bolt, (Framing the hull, step 5), apply approximately 1/8th (about one teaspoon full) of the tube of silicon sealant around the unthreaded portion of each bolt. This will seal the area around each bolt and prevent unwanted water from entering the hull.
6. Install the aft inboard bolt assembly on the starboard side as described in step 5. It is important that the hulls be parallel and level at this time. The frame will be very difficult to attach to the hulls if they are misaligned. Once the aft inboard bolts are installed, STOP. Do not install the outboard bolts. This will be done later.
7. Place the front bar across the forward saddles. The lengthwise track opening should be facing toward the bows. See Figure 5.
8. With the bar seated firmly in the saddle insert the forward inboard bolt assembly under the port rail. The bolt is fitted into the bar by the same procedure as the aft bolt assemblies.
9. Install the inboard bolt assembly on the starboard side of the cross bar. If there are any problems advancing the bolt refer to instructions in step 5A, B, C. Once the bolts are engaged, STOP. Do not tighten them down.
Figure 5
Figure 4
11. Install all four outboard bolts in the manner described in step 10. To insert the bolts in the front corner castings it will be necessary to remove the cover plates. Be careful when extracting the cover plate retaining screw. It is made of aluminum and can be galled. See Figure 6.
12. Use the hex drive to tighten the bolts. Follow this order to secure the bolts.
inboard front inboard aft outboard aft outboard front
It may be necessary to repeat this sequence more than once to seat the front and back bars firmly into the saddles. Once the bolts are tight check the dolphin striker rod for looseness. If it is loose, tighten the nuts at either end of the rod where it exits the outboard section of the corner casting.
13. Replace the cover plates on the front corner castings. Be careful not to damage the retaining screw as you are installing it.
14. Re-check the cross bar after five hours of sailing. It will probably be necessary to tighten some of the bolts.
TRAMPOLINE ASSEMBLY
1. Install the aft lacing strip. Feed the lacing strip into the rear cross bar at the right just inside the hull where the track has been cut away. See Figure 7. Center it on the rear cross bar.
2. Lay the trampoline halves face down forward of the front cross bar and between the hulls. The long row of grommets should be on the inside and the short row of grommets will be up at the bow. See Figure 8
3. With the port trampoline half still face down, lead the short side (without grommets) into the front cross bar at the opening in the center of the bar and slide it over to the hull. See Figure 9
4. Pass the trampoline between the front cross bar and the dolphin striker so that it is covering the bottom of the cross bar.
10. The four outboard bolt assemblies are identical. To install, first slip the bolt through the outer end of the corner casting and down through the rail of the boat. Place the stainless steel channel over the bolt's exposed section which is under the rail. Spin the nylock nut on the bolt but do not tighten the bolt down at this time.
Figure 7
Figure 6
4
Port and Starboard Port and Starboard Port and Starboard Port and Starboard
Figure 9
Figure 8
5
6
5. Insert the aft outboard corner of the trampoline into the extrusion on the inside of the hull and pull the trampoline as far aft as it will go.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 for installing the starboard trampoline.
7. In front of the rear cross bar there is a hole in either inboard rail. Insert the port aft lacing line into this hole on the port hull and exit it straight down. Tie a knot in the tail of the line and then pull the knot up under the rail.
8. Thread the lacing line from the inboard rail to the corner grommet on the AFT lacing strip and then to the corner grommet on the port trampoline. Temporarily tie the line off to the rear cross bar.
9. Repeat this procedure for the starboard side of the trampoline.
10. Attach the center trampoline lacing line to the forward-most grommet on the starboard trampoline. Lace it down to the rear taking out the slack as you go.
11. Untie the aft lacing lines and complete the lacing starting at the outboard side and working toward the center. See Figure 10. With use the trampoline will stretch and require periodic re-tightening.
Figure 10
Figure 11
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MAST ASSEMBLY
1. Support mast at both ends on saw horses or other such devices. Ref: Illus. #1, Pg. 20.
2. Spreaders. In the rig kit you will find all the parts of the spreader assembly.
3. The larger of the two pairs of aluminum rods (1-1), is the spreader arm. Attach it to the aft tab of the spreader root (1-2). Use a 3/16" x 11/16" clevis pin (1-3).
turnbuckle on the bolt, pass the bolt through the mast at the compression sleeve which is located 1 foot above the mast base(1-14). The shackled end of the MRCY should be behind the mast.
4. Locate the slide (1-4) on the spreader arm so that the large wing of the slide is closest to the mast, and facing forward.
5. Line up the inboard hole on the slide with the outboard hole on the spreader arm and insert the slide adjustment pin 3/16" x 13/16" (1-5). The slide is now positioned in the raked forward attitude.
6. Connect the smaller brace rod (1-6) between the forward tab on the spreader root and the wing on the slide, with the brace pin 3/16" x 9/16" (1-7).
7. Secure all the clevis pins with the cotter keys provided.
8. Repeat steps 3-7 for the opposite side of the mast.
9.There will be two large cotter pins (1-8) left over, place them to one side, they will be used later to retain the diamond wires in the spreader arm tips.
10. Mast rotation control yoke (MRCY). In the rig kit you will find the parts of the MRCY. You will also need the diamond wires which can be identified by the turnbuckles on one end.
11. IMPORTANT follow this sequence to assemble the MRCY and diamond wires.
12. Hold the two arms of the yoke (1-9) together at the ends with the small holes. Attach the small block (1-10) and shackle (1-11) to this end, see Figure 12. (There is a short line packed with the MRCY, set it to one side for now.)
13. Pass the long bolt (1-12)
through the large hole in one arm of the MRCY (1-9). Slide the toggle of diamond wire turnbuckle (1-13) over the bolt and move it next to the MRCY arm.
14. With one arm of the MRCY and one diamond wire turnbuckle on the bolt, pass the bolt through the mast at the compression sleeve which is located 1 foot above the mast base( 1-14). The shackled end of the MRCY should be behind the mast.
15. Slide the turnbuckle toggle of the opposite diamond wire over the exposed portion of the bolt. Install the remaining arm of the MRCY on top of the turnbuckle toggle.
16. Put the retaining nut (1-15) on the exposed threads of the bolt and finger tighten only. It will be tightened later. See figure 13.
17. Loosen the lock nuts at each end of the turnbuckle body and expand the turnbuckle 2-1/2". Note that both lock nuts spin in the same direction to unlock.
18. Attach the opposite end of the diamond wire to the diamond wire tang (1-16) which is located 2 feet below the mast tang (1-17). Install clevis pins (1-19) and cotter pins (1-20).
Figure 13
Figure 12
NOTE: The style of rotator yoke shown in
Figure 12 is the older mast rotator style.
Current models do not have a pulley. See page
20 for details on the new style.
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19. Slip the port diamond wire into the tip of the port spreader arm. Make sure that the anti-chafing roller on the diamond wire is above the spreader tip. Secure the diamond wire by installing one of the long cotter pins (1-
8) through the tip of the spreader.
20. Repeat this procedure for the starboard diamond wire.
21. Tighten the nut (1-15) of the through mast bolt which is at the lower end of the diamond wires.
22. Tighten the diamond wires by rotating the turnbuckle bodies. The turnbuckles must be adjusted equally since over-tightening one side will induce a bend into the mast. See Figure 14.
WARNING The diamond wire adjustment not only affects boat performance but also affects the mast structural integrity. If the diamond wires are loose or broken the mast will be permanently distorted or could fail completely. The diamond wires cannot be tightened sufficiently by hand. It will require the assistance of a wrench to make the last two or three revolutions of the turnbuckle body. Additionally, the diamond wire will stretch with use and require periodic inspection and re-tightening.
23. Once the diamond wires are adjusted, spin the locknuts up against the turnbuckle body tight. You can do this by hand.
24. Tie a piece of string through one turnbuckle body and over through the other turnbuckle body. This will
keep the turnbuckle from unscrewing.
25. Locate the shrouds and forestay in the rig kit. They are packed together and are the only rigging which is vinyl coated. The three wires are already attached to a large shackle. Remove the pin from the shackle and attach it to the mast tang (1-17) at the lowest of the. holes in the tang. See Figure 15. Secure the safety wire, which is attached to the thumbscrew, to the shackle body. This will keep the pin from unscrewing.
26. The double trapeze wire has a single thimble at its upper end. Engage this thimble to the shackle on the opposite set of trapeze wires after you have inserted the shackle through the upper set of holes in the mast tang. See Figure 15.
Figure 15
Figure 14
STEPPING THE MAST.
DANGER - Do not attempt to step the mast in an
area of low overhead wires. A mast contacting an electrical wire could be fatal.
1. Secure the four trapeze wires near the bottom of the mast so that they will be out of the way while the mast is being raised.
2. Attach the jib halyard line to each end of the jib halyard wire to form a very large loop. Tie the line around the fork at the bottom of the forestay. The halyard line must be connected to the wire before the mast is raised or you will be unable to hoist the jib later. See Illustration.
3. Carry the mast over to the boat and place the hinge of the mast base over the mast step which is located on the front bar, see Figure 17. The sail track should be facing down. Note: when lowering the mast over the trampoline be sure to guide the mast rotation control yoke between the trampoline halves.
Figure 17
Figure 16
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Jib Halyard Wire
Luff Tensioner
Jib Halyard Line
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