Hobbico Superstar 60 User Manual

Easy as 1, 2, 3

Entire Contents © Copyright, 2001

HCAZ3090 V 1.1

Know your model’s parts.

Take a moment now to
match the box con­tents with the items
listed here. Following
the SuperStar assembly
instructions will be
quite easy if you identi­fy and organize the
parts before you begin.
You may also want to
review the glossary of
special modeling terms
included at the back of
this manual.

Replacement Parts Available

You’re about to build in just days what took aviation

pioneers years—a powered machine that flies. Specially
created for you and other first-time radio control model­ers, Hobbico’s SuperStar series offers nearly all the
excitement of piloting a real airplane...and develops
skills that will take you anywhere you want in your
new hobby.

HCAA3070 Wing Kit
HCAA3071 Fuselage Kit

HCAA3072 Tail Set
HCAA3073 Landing Gear Set

2

Landing Gear

Part # Quantity

10 Main landing gear wires............2

11 Nose gear wire............................1

27 Nose gear control horn..............1

29 Landing gear straps ...................2

31 Wheels ........................................2

32 Wheel collars w/ set screws ......4

47 3mm x 10mm wood screws.......4

Wing Assembly

Part # Quantity

1 Right wing with aileron.............................1

2 Left wing with aileron ...............................1

7 Plywood wing joiner plates ......................3

19 Wing center tape .......................................1

21 Aileron servo tray ......................................1

22 Aileron servo tray mounting blocks.........2

23 Aileron control horns................................2

24 Aileron pushrods.......................................2

25 Clevises ......................................................5

28 Clear clevis retaining tube........................1

32

27

29

47

24

23

25

28

22

21

19

7

Tail Assembly

Part # Quantity

4 Horizontal Stab and elevator ........1

5 Vertical fin and rudder...................1

25 Clevises ..........................................5

26 Control horns .................................2

28 Clear retaining tube .......................1

36 Pushrods .........................................2

46 2mm x 15 mm machine screws.....4

36

46

28

25

26

10

11

Engine Mounting Parts

Part # Quantity

35 Adjustable engine mount...................2

43 6-32 x 7/8” Machine screw.................4

44 #6 x 5/8” Sheet Metal Screw...............4

50 Push rods and guide tubes.................2

Fuselage & Parts

Part # Quantity

3 Fuselage .................................1

8 Wing mounting dowels.........2

20 Servo tray ...............................1

40 Plywood stab base.................1

51 Spinner...................................1

52 Servo tray support .................1

Fuel Tank & Parts

Part # Quantity

12 Fuel tank ..............................................1

13 Tank stopper........................................1

14 Fuel pick-up weight ............................1

15 Plastic stopper compression disks

(one large and one small) ...................2

16 Aluminum fuel tubing

(one short and two long) ....................3

17 3mm x 18mm self tapping screw......1

18 Silicone fuel line..................................1

33 Foam collar..........................................1

3

8

40

51

16

14

18

17

13

15

50

43

44

33

19

45

43

35

32

11

51

15

25

26

50

24

47

23

29

10

9

1

6

136

12

2

6

6

6

9

13

14

18

16

33

17

28

3

52

29

47

10

6

5

6

6

6

4

6

6

6

49

31

32

22

21

49

7

8

44

52

20

* Engine mounting parts may differ from those shown in the photo.

Getting Ready for Flight

Your Hobbico SuperStar trainer is ready for takeoff in as little as 20 hours. Your
hobby dealer or flying instructor (see next page) can help you decide what
accessories you’ll need for flight. Most are one-time only purchases—and your
instructor will probably allow you to use his field box until you can outfit your
own with a glow plug starter, fuel pump, and “chicken stick" or electric starter.
You will need to provide your own fuel. Use glow fuel with a 10-15% nitro
blend to keep your engine performing at its peak...and your SuperStar will
have the power to make you an accomplished pilot!

Other items you’ll need:

Glues

Choose 6-minute and 30-minute epoxy, such as Great
Planes Pro

TM

Epoxy, which has been formulated especially
for R/C model building. Pro Epoxies offer a strong bond and
a variety of curing times suited for every step of assembly.
You’ll also need a thin instant-setting CA (cyanoacrylate), a
thicker CA+, plus rubbing alcohol for easy epoxy cleanup.

Model Engine

Power your SuperStar with any high-quality, .60­size model engine. The O.S. .60 FP, or SuperTigre
S-61K are fine engines for this plane. Look for fea­tures such as easy break-in, easy starting, efficient
carburetion and low maintenance. Check the
manufacturer’s recommendations for propellers
to use with your engine.

Radio Equipment

To let you send the commands that control your
SuperStar’s “flight path,” you’ll need a 4-channel air­craft radio system with four standard servos. Many 4­channel radios include just three servos. You may need
to purchase the fourth separately. The servos and radio
receiver will be mounted on-board your model and
need to be cushioned from jolts and vibration. One­half inch thick foam rubber sheets (HCAQ1050) are
available for this purpose

.

Hardware

Tools and accessories required for
assembly include a hobby knife; small
and large Phillips screwdrivers; needle
nose pliers; drill with 1/16”, 3/32” and
5/32” bits; ruler; #64 rubber bands; 1 foot
of medium fuel tubing; and
petroleum jelly.

Other General Items Required

Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8062) Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055) Clothespins
Foam Rubber (HCAQ1050) T-Pins (HCAR5150) Masking Tape
Drill and Drill Bits -

1/16”, 3/32” and 5/32” Phillips Screwdriver String

Felt Tip Pen Sanding Block Adjustable Wrench
Masking Tape Paper Towels

4

The best way to begin flying

your SuperStar is with an experi­enced R/C pilot or flying instruc­tor at your side. You’ll learn faster,
and avoid risking your model
before you’re truly ready to solo.

Where do you find an instructor?
Ask at your local hobby shop.
They’ll have information about
flying clubs in your area whose
membership includes qualified
instructors. You should also join
the Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), a 165,000

member-strong national
organization with more than
2,300 chartered clubs across
the country. Through any one
of them, instructor training
programs are available.
Contact the AMA at the
address or phone
number below:

Academy of Model
Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Tel. [phone]

Find a Flying Instructor

WARNING! This is not a toy!

90-Day Limited Warranty

If you, as the original owner of this model, discover defects in parts or
workmanship within 90 days of purchase, Hobbico will repair or replace
it—at the option of our authorized U.S. repair facility, Hobby Services—
without charge. Our liability does not include cost of shipping to us.
However, Hobby Services will pay shipping expenses to return your model
to you.

You must provide proof of purchase, such as your original purchase
invoice or receipt, for your model’s warranty to be honored.

This warranty does not apply to damage or defects caused by misuse or
improper assembly, service or shipment. Modifications, alterations or
repair by anyone other than Hobby Services voids this warranty. We are
sorry, but we cannot be responsible for crash damage and/or resulting
loss of kits, engines, accessories, etc.

Repair Service

Your SuperStar must be returned directly to Hobby Services for warran­ty work. The address is:
Hobby Services, Attn: Service Department, 1610 Interstate Drive,
Champaign, IL 61821-1067 Phone: [phone]

Please follow the instructions below when returning your model. This
will help our experienced technicians to repair and return it as quickly
as possible.

1. ALWAYS return your entire system, including airplane and radio.

2. Disconnect the receiver battery switch harness and make sure that the

transmitter is turned off. Disconnect all batteries and drain all fuel.

3. Include a list of all items returned and a THOROUGH, written explana-

tion of the problem and service needed. If you expect the repair to be
covered under warranty, also include your proof of purchase.

4. Include your full return address and a phone number where you can

be reached during the day.

If your model is past the 90-day warranty period or is excluded from
warranty coverage, you can still receive repair service through Hobby
Services at a nominal cost. Repair charges and postage may be prepaid or
billed COD. Additional postage charges will be applied for non-warranty
returns. All repairs shipped outside the United States must be prepaid in
U.S. funds only.

All pictures, descriptions and specifications found in this instruction
manual and on the product package are subject to change without notice.
Hobbico maintains no responsibility for inadvertent errors.

JOIN THE AMA

Before you fly:

1. Make sure that no other fliers are
using your radio frequency.

2. Your radio transmitter must be
the FIRST thing you turn ON, and
the LAST thing you turn OFF.

3. Double check all control surfaces.

4. Make sure that the transmitter
& receiver batteries are
fully charged.

Fuel storage and care:

1. Do not smoke near your engine
or fuel.

2. Store all engine fuel in a safe,
cool, dry place, away from chil­dren and pets. Model fuel will
evaporate, so make sure that
you always store it with the
cap secure.

1. Always wear safety glasses.

2. Make certain that your glow
plug clip is securely attached to
the glow plug—and cannot pop
off, possibly falling into the
spinning propeller.

3. Use a “chicken stick” or electric
starter to start the engine—
NOT your fingers.

4. Make sure that the wires from
your starter and glow plug clip
cannot become tangled with the
spinning propeller.

5. Do not stand at the side of the
propeller when you start or run
the engine. Even at idle speed,

the spinning propeller will be
nearly invisible.

6. If any engine adjustments
are necessary, approach the
engine only from behind the
spinning propeller.

Please follow these safety precautions:

When starting and running your engine:

5

6

Special Note:

You should charge your radio system before starting
to build. Following the manufacturer’s directions,
connect your transmitter and receiver batteries to the
system’s charger. This way the radio will be ready
when it is time to install the components.

Prepare the wing joiners

❏ 1. Locate the 1/8" (3mm) die-cut plywood wing

joiners and separate the three individual joiners from
the die-cut plywood sheet using a hobby knife.
Arrange the three "V"-shaped joiners in the same
orientation as they will be glued together.

Glue the wing joiners

Note: Please read steps 2 through 4 before gluing.

❏ 2. Mix approximately 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 6-minute

epoxy. Using a mixing stick or epoxy brush, apply an

even coat of epoxy on both sides of one of the wing
joiners. Sandwich this coated joiner between the
remaining two. Quickly proceed through the
following steps (3 and 4) before the glue cures.

Remove the excess epoxy

❏ 3. Excess epoxy will squeeze out of the seams

between the joiners and must be removed before

the
epoxy is allowed to cure. Use a paper towel dampened
with rubbing alcohol to remove the excess epoxy.

Clamp the wing joiner

❏ 4. Use clothespins to clamp the wing joiners firmly

together. If any more epoxy squeezes out, remove it
using a paper towel. Make sure the joiners are evenly
lined up with each other.

Assembling the Wing

7

Mark the centerline on the joiner

❏ 5. After the epoxy has cured and the clothespins

have been removed, draw a centerline on both sides
of the plywood wing joiners and the two balsa 5/16” x
1-7/16" (8mm x 36mm) aileron servo tray mounting
blocks. Use the plywood joiner as a template to mark
the wing dihedral angle on both of the balsa aileron
servo tray mounting blocks. Put these mounting
blocks aside for use in later steps.

Even the edges

❏ 6. Using a flat sanding block or similar tool, sand

the wing roots so they will seat together with no gaps.
Do not sand off too much or the dihedral angle
could change.

Mark the wing cavity

❏ 7. Lay the wing halves on the work surface with the

white, flat side facing up. Place a mark at the trailing
edge of the wing joiner cavity, aft of the plywood
brace on each wing half. This wing joiner locator line
will serve as a guide when cutting out the aileron
servo hole.

Trial fit the wing joiner

❏ 8. Trial fit the wing joiner in both wings by sliding

the joiner into the joiner cavity in the wing. The joiner
should slide in with little resistance up to
the centerline.Trial fit the wing halves together. The
two panels should fit flush with no gaps.

Sand the joiner

❏ 9. If the wing joiner will not fit in the cavity, lightly

sand any excess epoxy and uneven surfaces from the
joiner edges, sides and ends. Caution: A snug fit is

desirable between the joiner and the wing cavity. Do
not sand excessively.

Viewing the wing dihedral

❏ 10. Pay close attention to the orientation of the

wing joiner in relation to the dihedral of the wings
as shown.

Note: When performing the following steps 11 and 12,
be sure to use a sufficient amount of epoxy to form a
complete and solid bond between the plywood wing
joiner and the two wing halves. This is the most
important glue joint in the entire airplane.

Actual Size

Balsa Aileron Servo Tray Block (2)

8

Glue the joiner into the wing

❏ 11. Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy to glue

the joiner into one wing half. Use a mixing stick or
epoxy brush to apply epoxy to all four sides of the
joiner cavity wall. Insert the joiner into the cavity up
to the centerline marked on the joiner plate. Be sure
you are installing the joiner in the correct orientation
to the wing. Clean the excess epoxy from the wing
root rib. You must be sure all the excess glue is
removed from the wing root or the wings will not fit
together correctly. Allow enough time for the epoxy to
fully cure before proceeding to the next step.

Apply the epoxy to the wing root

❏ 12. Mix 1/2oz. (14.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy and

apply to the wing root rib and inside the joiner cavity
of the second wing half.

Join the wing halves

❏ 13. Assemble the two wing halves with the tightest

seam possible. No gaps should be showing between

the two wing halves. Clean the excess epoxy from the
outside of the wing using a paper towel dampened
with rubbing alcohol.

Tape the wing halves together

❏ 14. Hold the wing halves in alignment while the

epoxy is curing. Use several strips of masking tape on
both sides to hold the wing halves tightly together. Let
the glue cure.

Cut the aileron servo hole

❏ 15. Remove the masking tape from the wing. With

the wing lying upside down and the leading edge
facing away from you, hold the aileron servo tray onto
the bottom of the wing. The front inside edge of the
tray should be placed so the notch is 1/16" (1.5mm)
behind the wing joiner locator line, drawn earlier, and
centered directly over the wing joint. Using a felt-tip
pen, trace the inside of the tray. Use a hobby knife
with a new blade to carefully cut out the aileron servo
hole. Remove enough of the balsa center rib to allow
the servo to be inserted, but do not cut through the

top side of the wing or into the wing joiner cavity.

9

Remove the covering

❏ 16. Hold the servo tray over the hole. Trace the

outside of the tray with a felt-tip pen and then remove
the tray from the wing. Draw two lines 3/8” from the
ends as shown. Carefully remove only the covering
within the lines, being careful not to cut into the balsa
wing sheeting.

Shape the mounting blocks

❏ 17. Locate the aileron servo tray and the two balsa

servo tray mounting blocks (marked earlier) and
position them with the marked dihedral line up. Cut
or sand the marked angle out of the block. This angled
side will be placed against the wing when the servo
tray is installed.

Assemble the servo tray

❏ 18. Glue the balsa aileron servo blocks onto the

servo tray so that the angled side you just cut is facing
away from the plywood tray.

Trial fitting the aileron servo

❏ 19. Trial fit the aileron servo into the servo tray and

the hole cut in the bottom side of the wing. Enlarge
either hole, if needed, with a hobby knife or a fine
toothed file until a proper fit is achieved.

Install the servo tray

❏ 20. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 6-minute epoxy to glue

the servo tray to the bottom side of the wing. Apply
equal amounts of epoxy to the mounting blocks on
both ends of the servo tray. Attach the servo tray the
bottom of the wing with the servo wire harness notch
facing the leading edge of the wing. Allow the epoxy to
fully cure before proceeding to the next step.

10

Apply the center tape

❏ 21. Starting at the front of the aileron servo tray,

apply the 1/2" (12.5mm) white plastic center tape
completely around the wing over the joint. A small
amount of pressure should be applied to make a
smooth seam.

Check the aileron hinge

❏ 22. Gently tug on each of the ailerons at each hinge

location. If any of the hinges are loose, reglue them as
described here. First, flex the surface all the way one
direction (DO NOT REMOVE THE AILERON). Apply 5
drops of thin CA onto each hinge. Use a paper towel
to absorb the excess glue. Wait a few minutes for the
glue to harden, then flex the
surface the other direction and
glue the other side of the hinges.
Finally, flex the back and forth
several times to free up
the aileron.

Install the aileron control horns

❏ 23. Thread the white aileron control horns onto the

torque rods until there is 3/4" (19mm) of torque rod
between the wing and control horn.

Assemble the pushrods

❏ 24. Locate two plastic clevises and two 8" (203mm)

aileron pushrods. Thread the clevises onto the
threaded end of the pushrods until the rod begins to
protrude from the inside of the clevis between
the forks.

Aileron Control Horn (2)

Actual Size

11

Install the pushrods

❏ 25. Attach the control rods to the aileron control

horns. Press the forks of the clevis together until they
snap into place.

Aileron pushrods installed

❏ 26. Locate the 1/4" (6.5mm) diameter clear

retaining tube and cut two 1/4" (6.5mm) pieces. Slide
one piece on each of the two clevises to secure the
connection between the clevis and the horn.

This concludes the wing assembly for now. Tape the
pushrods to the wing to keep them in place until you
install the servo.

NOTES ON WING ASSEMBLY

:

12

Fuselage Assembly

Locate the wing dowel holes

❏ 1. Locate the four round holes, two on each side of

the fuselage, and remove the covering over each hole.

Caution: Do not cut out the rectangular holes in the
side of the fuselage.

Install the wing dowels

❏ 2. Insert both dowels so that they protrude an

equal amount on both sides. Mix 1/4oz. of 30-minute
epoxy. Apply glue around the dowels next to the
fuselage and rotate them in and out to help force the
glue into the holes. Using a paper towel, wipe the
excess glue around the ends of the dowels. This will
fuelproof and add strength to the wood. From the
inside of the fuselage, apply more glue around the
dowels where they meet the sides. These wing dowels
along with rubber bands will be used to hold the wing
in place.

Locate the stab slot

❏ 3. Locate the horizontal stabilizer slot under the

covering on the tail section of the fuselage by pressing
lightly with your finger. The slot will be located on
both sides of the tail. Using a hobby knife, carefully
remove the covering, exposing the slots. NOTE: Do

not cut into the wood around the slot.

Install the plywood stabilizer mount

❏ 4. Locate the 1/8" (3mm) triangular plywood

stabilizer mounting plate and trial fit it into the
bottom of the horizontal stabilizer slot. Lightly sand
the plate if necessary to obtain a good fit.

Glue the mount in place

❏ 5. Mix 1/8oz. (3.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy. Using a

mixing stick, apply a generous amount of glue into the
slot and position the stabilizer mounting plate,
pressing it firmly into position. Remove any excess
epoxy that remains on the top of the stabilizer mount
and on the outside of the fuselage.

13

Remove the tail post

❏ 6. Located at the rear of the fuselage, behind the

horizontal stabilizer slot, are the balsa tail posts.
These posts were left for manufacturing alignment.
The posts must be removed in order to insert the
horizontal stabilizer. Using a sharp hobby knife, cut
the posts even with the slot as shown in the picture.

Locate the vertical fin slot

❏ 7. Using your finger, locate the vertical stabilizer

slot on the top of the fuselage. Remove the covering
with a hobby knife.

Check the rudder and elevator hinges

❏ 8. Gently tug on the rudder and elevator at each

hinge location. If any of the hinges are loose, reglue
them as described here: First, flex the surface all the
way one direction (DO NOT REMOVE THE
SURFACE). Apply 5 drops of thin CA onto each hinge.
Use a paper towel to absorb the excess glue. Wait for a
few minutes for the glue to harden, then flex the
surface the other direction and
glue the other side of the hinges.
Finally, flex the surface back and
forth several times to free it up.

Mark the centerline

❏ 9. Locate the horizontal stabilizer. Measure and

mark the exact center on the top surface and of the
trailing edge, in the hinge gap, as shown (DO NOT
MARK ON THE ELEVATOR).

Align the stabilizer with the wing

❏ 10. Insert the stabilizer into the horizontal

stabilizer slot so it is centered in the fuselage. Place
the wing onto the fuselage and view the plane from
the rear. The stab should be parallel with the wing. If
not, sand the stabilizer mounting plate a little at a
time until correct.

14

Align the stabilizer with the fuse

❏ 11. Attach a piece of string with a pin to the center

of the fuselage as shown. Hold the string to the corner
of the horizontal stabilizer. The distance from the pin
to the horizontal stabilizer must be exactly the same
on both sides.

Mark the stab location

❏ 12. Using a felt-tip pen, trace a line around the tail

of the airplane on the top and bottom of the
horizontal stabilizer.

Remove the center covering

❏ 13. Remove the stabilizer and draw two additional

lines, on the top and bottom, 1/16” inside the lines
drawn in the last step. Next, carefully cut through the
covering at the inside lines and remove the covering

from the center. Do not cut the wood under the

covering! This would seriously weaken the stab and
could easily cause the stab to break in flight. If the

stab breaks the plane may crash, so be very careful
when you make this cut.

Install the stabilizer

❏ 14. Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy. Using a

mixing stick, place glue inside the horizontal stabilizer
slot on all sides including the horizontal stabilizer
mount. Insert the stabilizer from the rear, and adjust
the alignment. Wipe off any epoxy that squeezes out
using a paper towel dampened with rubbing alcohol.
Set the fuselage aside until the glue cures.

Install the vertical fin

❏ 15. Trial fit the fin into the slot in the top of the

fuselage. Using a felt tip pen, trace a line around the
front of the fin onto the fuselage. Remove the fin.
Next, using a hobby knife, carefully remove the
covering from where the fin will sit on the fuselage. Be
careful not to cut into the wood.

Mix 1/4oz. (7.5ml) of 30-minute epoxy. Using a
mixing stick, apply epoxy to the top of the horizontal
stab through the slot. Apply epoxy to the sides and
bottom surfaces of the
fin base that have balsa
wood exposed. Insert
the fin into the slot,
making sure the fin base
is seated firmly on the horizontal stabilizer. Check for
a perpendicular angle between the fin and the
stabilizer when viewing from the rear. Check this
alignment several times as the glue cures.

15

Actual Size

Control Horn

20mm Threaded

Screw (4)

Actual Sizes

Locations of the control horns

❏ 16. Notice the locations and alignment of the

control horns in both the photo and the illustration
before marking and drilling. The rudder control horn
must be on the left side. The elevator horn must be
underneath and on the right side.

The control horns should be
positioned so the holes are lined
up with the hinge line as shown in
the sketch.

Attaching the rudder control horn

❏ 17. Position a control horn as shown in the

previous step, 7/8" (22 mm) from the bottom of the
rudder. Mark the two holes with a felt-tip pen.

Attach the control horn

❏ 18. Drill two 3/32” (2.4 mm) holes straight through

the balsa rudder at the marks. Place a drop of thin CA

into each hole. This will add strength to the balsa.
Redrill the holes to remove any excess glue. Insert two
2 x 20mm machine screws through the control horn,
rudder and finally screwing them into the control
horn back plate on the opposite side of the rudder.
Tighten the screws but do not crush the balsa. Cut off
the excess threads that stick out using a wire cutter.

Install the elevator horn

❏ 19. Attach the elevator control horn in the same

manner as the rudder. Place the control horn on the
bottom side of the elevator 1-1/8” (28mm) away from
the fuselage side (see previous photo at earlier step).
Mark the two holes with a felt-tip pen. Drill two 3/32”
(1.6mm) holes straight through the balsa elevator at
the marks. Place a drop of thin CA into each hole.
Redrill the holes to remove any excess glue. Thread
two 2 x 20mm machine screws through the control
horn, elevator and finally into the control horn back
plate on the opposite side. Tighten the screws but do
not crush the balsa. Cut off the excess threads.

Locate the rudder exit hole

❏ 20. The rudder pushrod exit is located on top of the

fuselage on the same side as the rudder control horn.
Locate the exit hole using the measurements on the
sketch. Cut out the exit using a hobby knife.

Rudder Control horn

7

/8

”

Fuselage centerline

Elevator control horn

11/8

”

Bottom of rudder

16

Cut the elevator exit hole

❏ 21. The precut elevator pushrod exit hole is located

on the same side of the fuselage as the elevator control
horn. Locate the exit hole by gently running your finger
along the side of the fuselage over the covering. It
should be located approximately 7/8” in front of the
stab where shown. Using a hobby knife, remove the
covering from the elevator pushrod exit slot.

Locate the landing gear channel

❏ 22. On the bottom of the fuselage, there is a

channel for the main landing gear. Locate this
channel by running your finger over the covering on
the bottom of the fuselage. Using a hobby knife
remove the covering from this channel.

Prepare the channel for the gear

❏ 23. Trial fit the wire landing gear struts into the

holes. If they will not go in easily, drill out the two

holes using a 13/64” drill bit. Next, bevel the inside
corners of the holes so that the bend in the wire will
seat fully into the holes.

Install the landing gear struts

❏ 24. Position the two wire struts in the holes inside

the channel. Center the two metal landing gear straps
over the struts so they are approximately 1/2” from
the sides of the fuselage. Mark the holes using a felt­tip pen.

Drill the fuselage

❏ 25. Drill four holes using a 1/16" (1.6 mm) drill bit.

Mount the struts

❏ 26. Using four 2.5 x 10mm self–tapping screws,

fasten the landing gear straps to the bottom of the
fuselage over the struts.

Prepare the engine mount

❏ 27. Carefully trim off the molding braces from both

halves of the nylon adjustable engine mount. Attach
the two halves together and onto the firewall using
four 6-32 x 7/8” machine screws. Do not tighten the
screws completely at this time.

Install the throttle guide tube

❏ 28. Roughen the outside of both plastic guide tubes

and clean with a paper towel dampened with rubbing
alcohol. This will help the glue stick to the tubes.
Install one of the tubes into the upper hole in the
firewall. Position the tube so that approximately 2”
protrudes out of the firewall. Mix 1/8oz. of 6-minute
epoxy and glue the guide tube into the hole in the
firewall and into the upper right slot inside
the fuselage as shown.

Drill the steering pushrod exit hole

❏ 29. Drill a 5/32” hole into the firewall, 3/8” from

the bottom and 5/8” from the inside edge of the
fuselage side.

Install the steering guide tube

❏ 30. Slide the remaining guide tube into the hole

you just drilled so that 1/2” protrudes. Mix up 1/8oz.
of 6-minute epoxy. Glue the tube into the hole and
into the lower left slot inside the fuselage. Once the
glue has cured, trim off this tube so it is flush with the
firewall (Do not trim off the throttle tube).

Make “Z” bends on the wire

❏ 31. Make a Z-bend at one end of both of the 1/16” x

19-3/4” wire throttle and steering pushrods. NOTE:
Hobbico offers pliers that easily make perfect
Z-bends (HCAR2000) see your hobby dealer.

Trim the steering arm

❏ 32. Locate the black plastic steering arm. Hold the

arm in your hand so that the screw hole on the side is
facing you. Using a wire cutter, remove the left side of
the arm. It is not needed.

Install the steering wire

❏ 33. Attach the “Z” bend of one of the wires into the

outside hole of the black plastic steering arm. Slide
the wire into the lower guide tube so that the steering
arm is against the firewall with the screw hole
facing forward.

17

Install the nose gear strut

❏ 34. Install the nose gear strut through the steering

arm followed by a 4mm collar. Next, slide the strut
through the first engine mount lug and insert a
second 4mm collar onto the strut between the lugs.
Insert the nose gear strut into the top lug so that the
coil is 1/8” below the fuselage bottom. Tighten the
wheel collars to the strut using two 3mm x 5mm
screws so both collars are against the lower lug of the
engine mount.

Position the steering arm

❏ 35. Rotate the nose gear strut so that the wheel

(once installed) will point straight ahead. Swing the
steering arm so it is approximately 1/2” the from the
firewall. Tighten the arm to the strut using a 3mm x
8mm screw. NOTE: The steering arm will stay in place
better if a small flat is filed into the strut. This should
be done after you have established the proper
positioning of the arm.

Assemble the fuel tank plug

❏ 36. Push one long and one short aluminum tube

through the black rubber stopper. (The third

aluminum tube will not be used.) Place the two white
plastic discs over the tubes. The larger disc should go
towards the outside. The nub on the small disc should
face away from the rubber stopper. Insert the 3 x
18mm self tapping screw through the larger disc,
rubber plug and then into the smaller disc. Do not
tighten the screw at this time.

Bend the vent tube

❏ 37. Bend the longer tube up as shown so that it will

come within 1/16” from touching the top of the tank
when installed. Use your fingers to bend the tube,
being careful not to kink it closed.

Install the clunk onto the cap

❏ 38. Locate the metal fuel pick-up weight (often

referred to as the “clunk”) and the fuel tubing. Cut the
fuel tubing so it is only 5-1/2” long. Attach the fuel
tubing to the short aluminum tube and to the clunk.

Install the stopper

❏ 39. The stopper assembly can now be inserted into

the tank. The pressure tube should be adjusted so the
tube is pointed straight up just under the top of the
tank. The rubber stopper must seat over the lip of the
tank. Make sure that the tubes are positioned side to

18

side. Tighten the stopper by turning the self tapping
screw. Do not over-tighten the screw or you may strip
out the plastic disc.

Install the foam collar and bend
the tubes

❏ 40. Locate the black foam collar. Remove the inner

foam circle and place the collar around the neck of
the fuel tank. Bend the aluminum tubes outward
slightly (1/8”) to allow clearance for the nose gear
strut once installed.

Install the tank

❏ 41. With the vent tube (inside the tank) pointing

up, insert the fuel tank into the fuselage. Make sure
the foam collar is seated well against the firewall.

Brace the fuel tank

❏ 42. Hold the tank in position using a small piece of

scrap balsa wood glued to the bulkhead with thin CA.

Adjust the engine mount

❏ 43. Remove the needle valve from the engine (if

necessary) and set the engine onto the mount. Adjust
the rails until they fit close to the engine case. Remove

the engine and tighten the four screws to secure the
mount to the firewall.

Align the engine with the fuselage

❏ 44. Position the engine on the mount so that the

face of the engine thrust washer is 1/4” forward of the
fuselage sides. Align the engine so that the crankshaft
is pointing straight forward. Mark the rails at the four
mounting hole locations on the engine using a 5/32”
drill bit (or a bit that fits your engine mounting holes
the best) to scribe a mark.

Drill mounting holes

❏ 45. Remove the engine from the mount and drill

four 3/32” holes at the marks you just made.

Attach fuel tubing to the tank

❏ 46. Cut two 6” pieces of medium fuel tubing (not

included). Attach one piece onto each of the
aluminum tubes coming from the fuel tank.

Install the throttle pushrod

❏ 47. Attach the the “Z” bend of the the 1/16” x 18”

wire pushrod into the inside hole of the carburetor
control arm.

19

Mount the engine

❏ 48. Slide the throttle pushrod wire into the guide

tube and position the engine on the mount. Fasten
the engine to the mount using the four 3 x 15mm self
tapping screws.

Install the needle valve

❏ 49. Line up the needle valve with the engine. Trim

away part of the fuselage side so that there will be
plenty of clearance to grip the valve with your fingers.
Coat the exposed wood with epoxy to seal it from fuel.
Install the needle valve into the carburetor.

Install the muffler

❏ 50. Install the muffler onto the engine using the

screws that came with the engine. Attach the fuel
tubing from the “vent” in the fuel tank to the muffler
pressure tap. Attach the tubing from the “clunk” in
the fuel tank to the carburetor. NOTE: You may wish

to shorten the fuel lines for a more direct routing.
Make sure that the lines do not get any kinks which
could restrict fuel flow.

Attach the propeller to the engine

❏ 51. Ream out the spinner backplate to fit on the

engine. Install the spinner backplate, prop, prop
washer, and the prop nut onto the engine. Position
the prop so it is horizontal when the engine is against
its compression (the point at which you feel
resistance when you turn the crankshaft counter­clockwise). This is a good habit to get into when
installing props onto model airplanes. If the engine
quits during flight, the prop will stop horizontally,
therefore reducing the chance of prop breakage if you
are forced to land on rough terrain. Use an adjustable
wrench (not a pliers) to fully tighten the prop nut.

Install the spinner

❏ 52. Trim the spinner cone slots so that there is at

least a 1/16” gap between the cone and the prop.
Once satisfied with the fit, attach the cone with the
screws provided. Be careful not to over-tighten these
screws. They are threaded into plastic which can strip
out easily if they are over–tightened.

Prepare the servos

❏ 53. Install the rubber grommets and bushings,

included with your radio system, onto the four servos.
Refer to your radio manual for proper installation of
these items.

20

Trial fit the servos

❏ 54. Trial fit your servos into the plywood servo tray.

Enlarge the servo tray opening, if needed, using a flat
file. The servo should fit easily into the radio tray.

Install the servo tray support

❏

55. Position the servo tray support into the fuselage
directly in front of the the landing gear block. Glue in
place with thick CA.

Install the servo tray

❏ 56. Position the servo tray into the fuselage so that

the small rectangular hole is facing forward. You may
need to sand the edges and corners slightly for a good
fit. Glue in place using thick CA.

Install the servos in the fuselage

❏ 57. Routing the wire servo leads forward, install the

servos into the tray using the screws included with the
radio system. Do not over-tighten the screws. They
should only be snug. Anything tighter will crush the
grommets and allow the normal vibrations from the
engine to affect the servos. Choose and trim the servo
arms so they look similar to the ones shown in
the photo.

Install the aileron servo

❏ 58. Install the remaining servo into the servo

mount in the wing. Route the leads between the tray
and the bottom of the wing as shown.

21

Receiver and battery installation

❏ 59. Following the radio system’s instruction

manual, plug the three servos into the receiver. Next,
plug a servo extension into the aileron channel
(usually channel one) of the receiver. Finally, plug the
switch into the receiver. Wrap the receiver and
battery pack in foam rubber using rubber bands or
masking tape to hold the foam in place. Install the
battery and receiver into the fuselage. The battery
should be located directly behind the fuel tank. The
receiver should then be placed directly behind the
battery. Secure these components in place using a
couple of pieces of scrap wood (popsicle sticks
work well).

Mount the switch to the fuselage

❏ 60. Cut out the opening on the left side of the

fuselage for the switch and install using the screws
included with the switch. We recommend using a
Great Planes Switch/Charge jack. This makes it easy
and convenient for charging your receiver batteries.

Prepare the pushrods

❏ 61. Locate the two wooden dowel pushrods and

apply thin CA to the ends of the shrink tubing on
both rods.

Install the pushrods

❏ 62. Insert the two pushrods, threaded end first,

through the fuselage and out the two pushrod exits at
the back of the fuselage. You may have to bend the
rods slightly to eliminate binding.

Make the clevis retainers

❏ 63. Cut two 1/4” wide pieces of the clear tube. Slide

one on each of the pushrods that protrude out of
the fuselage.

Install the two clevises

❏ 64. Screw a clevis onto each pushrod until the

threads protrude about 1/16” between the clevis forks.

22

Attach the pushrods

❏ 65. Attach the two clevises to the control horns.

Use the 2nd hole from the outside. Check to make
certain that the pushrods do not bind in the openings
and that they operate smoothly. Slide the clevis
retainer over the clevis forks.

Center the servos with your radio

❏ 66. Turn on the transmitter and then the receiver

switch. Center all of the trim levers and place the
throttle stick at its midway position. Turn off the
receiver switch and then the transmitter. By doing
this, your servos will be at their centered (neutral)
position when you connect the pushrods. Refer to the
following photos and replace or trim the servo arms as
shown. To do this, simply remove the servo arms and
reposition them on the splined servo output shaft. Be

sure to reinstall the screws.

Mark the pushrods

❏ 67. Holding the elevator in its neutral position,

mark the pushrod wire where it crosses the servo arm
as shown. Next, hold the rudder at its neutral position
and mark the wire the same way.

Cut the pushrods

❏ 68. Cut off the pushrods approximately 3/8” past

the marks.

Connect the pushrods

❏ 69. Make a “Z” bend at each mark. Remove the

servo arms from the servos. Attach the rods to the
servo arms. You may need to enlarge the holes slightly
on the arms. A 5/64” drill bit works great for this.
Reattach the servo arms in the same position.

Attach the pushrod connector

❏ 70. Remove the servo arm and install a pushrod

connector on the opposite side of the rudder pushrod.
This will be for the steering rod. Thread the nut onto
the connector. The connector must be able to rotate
in the servo arm, so do not over–tighten the nut. Place
a drop of thin CA onto the threads to lock the nut in

23

place, thread the 3mm x 4mm screw into
the connector.

Install the steering pushrod

❏ 71. Slide the wire steering pushrod into the

pushrod connector. Straighten the nose gear and
tighten the pushrod connector. Using a wire cutter,
carefully remove the excess wire, leaving only about
3/4” remaining past the connector.

Connect the throttle servo

❏ 72. Install the second pushrod connector onto the

throttle servo arm. Slide the throttle pushrod wire
through the connector. Hand tighten this screw so
that the carburetor is half open. Final throttle
adjustment will be made later. Using a wire cutter,
carefully remove the excess wire, leaving only about
3/4” remaining past the connector.

Connect the aileron servo

❏ 73. Hold the ailerons at neutral and mark the

servo wheel where the rods intersect (see sketch).
Note the wires are intentionally positioned off center

to cause the aileron to travel further up than down,
which is known as “differential aileron throw.” This
will give smoother banking control
and will reduce the airplanes
adverse yaw tendency (typical with
flat bottom wings). Make a “Z” bend
at the mark on each wire and
connect to the servo wheel. You will
have to remove the wheel to connect
the rods. Enlarge the holes if needed
using a 5/64” drill bit.

Straighten the antenna

❏ 74. Unwind the antenna and

straighten (do not stretch) the wire to its full length.
Do not cut the antenna wire as this will decrease the
range and sensitivity of your receiver.

Drill an antenna exit

❏ 75. Using a 3/16” drill bit, drill a hole centered

approximately 3/4” behind the wing saddle on top of
the fuselage. Cut a 3/8” long piece of medium fuel
tubing and center it inside this hole.

Securing the antenna

❏ 76. Route the antenna away from the servos and up

through the antenna exit. Use a trimmed servo arm
and rubber band at the end of the antenna to a pin
pushed in the top of the stab.

24

Install the wheels

❏ 76. Place one wheel collar on each strut, followed

by a wheel. Secure each wheel with an additional
wheel collar, making a total of two on each strut--one
on the inside and one on the outside of the wheel. The
nose gear wire is thinner, so use the wheel with the
smaller center hole along with the two remaining
small wheel collars. The wheels must all spin freely
and have no tendency to bind.

Attach the Wing

❏ 77. Connect the aileron servo to the aileron

extension and attach the wing onto the fuselage using
12 #64 rubber bands. Install 5 on each side first. Then
criss-cross the remaining 2. This will hold the wing
securely, but will allow it to pop off in the event of a
cartwheel on the ground, thus minimizing damage.

Notes on Fuselage assembly:

25

1. Turn on the Transmitter and then the Receiver.
Standing behind the plane, make the following
movements with the transmitter and observe the
control surfaces:

If any of the servo movements are opposite, reverse
the servo direction with the servo reversing switches
on the transmitter.

2. For added safety and convenience, the throttle
should be set up so that the engine can be stopped
using the throttle trim. To do this, loosen the pushrod
connector screw and move the throttle pushrod so
that the carburetor is completely closed with the
throttle stick and trim lever on
the transmitter fully back.
(NOTE: If the carburetor does
not fully close, adjust the idle
stop screw on the carburetor
until it will.) Next, tighten the
screw on the pushrod
connector. Test the trim lever
by advancing it to full. This will be a fast idle position
with the carburetor barrel
slightly open (about 1/32”).
See sketch. Now move the
throttle stick forward to full.
Make sure that the carburetor
barrel opens all the way. See
sketch. If it doesn’t open far
enough or opens too far (bending the rod) move the
pushrod connector in or out on the servo arm and/or
the carburetor arm to gain or reduce movement. The
throw will be correct when the carburetor barrel will

stop fully open at the same time the throttle stick
reaches full. With the throttle set up properly, you
should be able to start and run the engine with the
trim lever set midway to full position (adjusted for a
smooth but slow idle). Then when it is time to stop
the engine, simply pull back the trim to close the
carburetor and the engine will stop running.

3. Check the movement of the control surfaces. Use a
ruler to match our measurements listed below. If your
radio features dual rates, set up both the high and the
low rates following the radio system’s instructions. If
your radio does not have dual rates, set up the plane
using the low rates first and increase the throws as
you get familiar with the plane.

Low rate High rate

Aileron 3/8” up 1/2” up

1/4” down 3/8” down

Elevator 5/16” each way 7/16” each way

Rudder 5/8” each way 3/4” each way

These are the suggested deflections from center.

If you need more movement, you should move the
clevis to a hole closer to the surface or you can install
a larger servo wheel and move the rod further out
from center. If you have too much movement, do
the opposite. See sketches below:

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

26

Radio System Set-Up

Open Slightly (Idle)

Fully Open

Moving the clevis outward on the servo arm results in more
pushrod movement.

Moving the clevis inward on the control horn results in more throw.

1. Check the lateral balance. With the wing attached,
gently lift the airplane by the spinner and the bottom
center of the tail. You may need an assistant to help
you with this. If one wing tip is noticeably heavy (the
tip will drop), attach some weight to the lighter tip
until they are equal. Use Great Planes “stick-on” lead
weights (GPMQ4485) for easy balancing.

NOTE: This section is VERY important and must not
be omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will

be unstable and possibly unflyable.

2. Check the fore-aft balance point, also referred to as
the “center of gravity” (CG). Accurately mark the
balance point on the bottom of the wing of both sides
of the fuselage. The balance point is located 3-7/8”
back from the leading edge. This is the balance point
at which your model should balance for your first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the balance up to 1/4” forward or back to change the
flying characteristics. Moving the balance forward
may improve the smoothness and arrow-like tracking,
but it may then require more speed for takeoff and
make it more difficult to slow down for landing.
Moving the balance aft makes the model more agile
with a lighter and snappier “feel.” In any case, please
start at the location we recommend and do not at any
time balance your model outside of the
recommended range of 3-5/8” to 4-1/8” back from the
leading edge.

The plane must be “ready to fly” (all
components installed) with an empty fuel tank before
checking the CG. Place your finger tips on the model
at the marked balance point. Lift the model. If the tail
drops, the plane is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight to the nose. If the nose drops, the plane is

“nose heavy” and you must add weight to the tail. If
possible, first attempt to balance the model by
changing the position of the battery and receiver. If
you are unable to obtain good balance by doing so,
then it will be necessary to add weight to the nose or
tail to achieve the proper balance point. NOTE:
Weight may be easily installed by using stick on lead
available from Great Planes (GPMQ4485).

27

Balance Your Model

There is one thing that you will need to fly your
SuperStar 60 safely that is not furnished with the kit:
You will need a qualified instructor to teach you to fly.
No trainer ever made will let you teach yourself to fly
safely. It can be done, but you would be seriously
risking more than just the model. To find an
instructor, you should join an R/C flying club. If there
is not a club nearby, then you should find an
experienced model pilot who is willing to help you.
The chosen instructor should fly well enough to allow
you to concentrate on your own flying. If you are
worried about your instructor crashing your model,
you will not be able to concentrate on learning to fly.
After you have found an instructor, you should spend
some time just talking with him about what you will
be trying to learn. He should inspect the model to be
certain that it is ready to fly. Listen to him and try to
gain by his experience.

Now that you have a good model and an
instructor whom you trust, you can go out and get
started learning to fly. You can expect to be very
nervous at first, and you will make some mistakes.
There will be several instances where the instructor
will prevent you from crashing. This will be unsettling,
but the thing to do is jump right back into flying the
model (after your knees stop shaking, of course). This
is one of the most important things about learning to
fly model airplanes...you have to fly! Fly as often as
you can. Be sure to make several flights each time you
go to the flying field, but give yourself time after each
flight to calm down and discuss the flight with your
instructor. Spending some time after each flight
talking about what happened and what you need to
work on to improve your skills will pay off with greater
confidence in your own growing abilities.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your
transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you
go flying, and at other times as recommended by the
radio manufacturer.

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY

1. The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA
(Academy of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field.
Ask your hobby shop dealer if there is such a club in

your area and join. Club fields are set up for R/C flying
which makes your outing safer and more enjoyable.
The AMA can also tell you the name of a club in your
area. We recommend that you join the AMA and a
local club so you can have a safe place to fly and also
have insurance to cover you in case of a flying
accident. (The AMA address is listed at the front of
this instruction book).

If there is not a flying club in your area, you need
to find a large area, free of obstructions, with a
smooth surface that can be used as a runway, and
located at least 6 miles away from any other R/C
airplane operation and away from houses, buildings
and streets. A schoolyard may look inviting but it is
too close to people, power lines and possible radio
interference.

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation
of R/C models, ask an experienced modeler to check
to see that you have the radio installed correctly and
that all the control surfaces do what they are
supposed to. The engine operation must also be
checked and the engine “broken in” on the ground by
running the engine for at least two tanks of fuel.

Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations
for break-in. Check to make sure all screws remain

tight, that the hinges are secure and that the prop is
on tight.

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO

Check the operation of the radio before every
time you fly. This means that with the transmitter
antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter
on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet away
from the model and still have control. Have someone
help you. Have them stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the various
control surfaces are doing.

Repeat this test with the engine running at
various speeds with an assistant holding the model. If
the control surfaces are not acting correctly at all
times, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first.

28

Preparing To Fly Your SUPERSTAR 60

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

NOTE: Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from
high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.
Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; remember that
the engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly
carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in
a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning
to operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running
engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel
or sand, as the propeller may throw such material in
your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as
you start and run the engine.

Keep items such as these away from the prop:
loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or
loose objects (pencils, screw drivers) that may fall out
of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” device or electric starter;
follow instructions supplied with the starter or stick.
Make certain that the glow plug clip or connector is
secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into
the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or
after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
condition .

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by
pinching the fuel line. Do not use hands, fingers or
any body part to try to stop the engine. Do not put
anything into the prop of a running engine.

AMA SAFETY CODE

Read and abide by the Academy of Model Aeronautics
Official Safety Code, a portion of which is reprinted
here:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport

without notifying the airport operator. I will give
right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full­scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be
utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless
and/or dangerous manner.

6. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model.

8. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of
any kind) . . .

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio
equipment ground range check before the first flight
of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flyer, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away
from the pit or spectator areas, and I will not
thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas unless beyond
my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. . .

29

It is best if you let the instructor test fly the model
first. Once he has flown the model he will adjust the
trim to eliminate any turning, climbing, or diving
tendencies that he found on the test flight. This will
help make your first flights much easier and safer.

Ground Handling:

Start with learning to steer
the model on the ground using the rudder and
throttle. You should learn to guide the airplane on the
ground at various speeds and directions.

Be careful–
you do not have brakes, so do not get close to
any obstacles.

Takeoff:

Line up as straight into the wind as
possible. Gradually advance the throttle to get the
model rolling. Advance the throttle to full. Using small
rudder inputs, guide the plane straight down the
runway. Let the plane get up to flying speed on the
ground before lifting off. Once up to speed, lift off by
smoothly applying a little up elevator and climb out
gradually. Do not try to gain altitude or turn until the
airplane gains additional speed.

Flying:

We recommend that you take it easy with
your SuperStar 60 for the first several flights and
gradually “get acquainted” with the airplane as your
engine gets fully broken–in. As you will see, this
airplane is smooth and very predictable. Your
confidence will grow to the point that flying is more
fun than ever. Just remember to take your time.
Follow your instructor’s advice and learn to control
the model in the many basic maneuvers possible with
this model.

Landing:

When it’s time to land, do a couple of
slow flybys (again, straight into the wind) at a safe
altitude and get familiar with the plane’s slow flying
characteristics. Landings will involve learning to judge
the height, position, direction, and speed of the model
in relation to the runway. You should not attempt to
land the model yourself until you are comfortable
flying the model in the air. Landing is the most
difficult maneuver for beginners so it should only be
practiced after you can fly confidently.

As with takeoffs, always land into the wind. Line­up with the runway and reduce the throttle to idle.
Glide the model down using ailerons to keep the
wings level and elevator to control altitude. Be careful
not to use too much elevator at slower speeds. This
could cause the airplane to stall too close to the

ground. If the airplane is coming in short, increase the
throttle to get to the runway. If you come in too long,
raise the throttle slowly and abort the landing. Do not
force the plane to land. Try again with a slightly lower
approach. Just before touchdown, add in a little more
elevator to flare the airplane for a smooth touchdown.
Perfect landings are difficult so practice them often.

Thank you for choosing the SuperStar 60. We hope
that it will be only the first of many, in a lifetime
enjoyment of radio control airplanes.

30

Flying Your SUPERSTAR 60

Glossary of Terms

Wing Tip

Trailing Edge

Aileron

Hinges

Rudder

Hinges (on
all control
surfaces)

Elevator

Control Horns

Stabilizer

Receiver
Antenna

Fuselage

Servos

Receiver

Receiver Battery

Fuel Tank

Muffler

Engine

Propeller

Leading

Edge

Spinner

Switch Harness

Pushrods

Ailerons – Hinged control sur-

faces located on the trailing
edge of the wing, one on each
side, which provide control of
the airplane about the roll axis.
The control direction is often
confusing to first time model­ers. For a right roll or turn, the
right hand aileron is moved
upward and the left hand
aileron downward and vice
versa for a left roll or turn.

Canard – A unique type of air­plane, in which the wing is
located near the back of the
fuselage and the horizontal sta-
bilizer is located at the nose of
the fuselage.

Carburetor – The part of the
engine which controls the
speed or throttle setting and
lean/rich mixture via setting of
the needle valve.

Charge Jack – The plug recepti­cal of the switch harness which

the charger is plugged into to
charge the airborne battery. An

expanded scale voltmeter
(ESV) can also be plugged into

it to monitor battery voltage
during a flying session. It is
advisable to mount the charge
jack in an accessible area of the
fuselage so an ESV can be used
without removing the wing.

Charger – Device used to
recharge batteries and is usual­ly supplied with the radio if

NiCd batteries are included.

Chicken Stick – A hand held

stick used to flip start a model
airplane engine.

Clunk – A weighted fuel pick up
used in a fuel tank to assure the
intake line is always in fuel.

Clevis – A small clip which is
threaded or soldered onto the
wire end of a pushrod and con­nects the pushrod to the

control horn of a control sur­face. The threads allow fine
adjustment of length of the
pushrod.

Computer Radio – A radio con­trol unit in which the transmit-
ter has several advanced func­tions which can be pro­grammed completely to fine
tune an airplane without mak­ing mechanical changes.

Control Horn – The arm which
is attached to a control surface
at the hingeline and is connect­ed to a pushrod.

Dead Stick – A term used to
describe unpowered flight
(glide) when the engine quits
running.

Delta Wing – An airplane with a
triangle shaped wing. Delta
wings have no horizontal stabi-

lizer.

Aileron

Torque Rods

Vertical Fin

Yaw Axis

Pitch Axis

Roll Axis

31

Words shown in italics are defined elsewhere in this glossary.

Dihedral – The V shaped bend
in the wing. Typically more
dihedral causes more aerody­namic stability in an airplane,
and causes the rudder to con­trol both the roll and yaw axis.
This is why some trainers and
sailplanes require only 3 chan­nels of radio control—i.e., hav­ing no ailerons.

Electric Starter – A hand held,
electric motor used for starting
a model airplane engine.

Elevator – Hinged control sur­face located at the trailing edge
of the horizontal stabilizer,
which provides control of the
airplane about the pitch axis
and causes the airplane to
climb or dive. The correct direc­tion of control is to pull the
transmitter elevator control
stick back, toward the bottom of
the transmitter, to move the
elevator upward, which causes
the airplane to climb and vice
versa to dive.

Elevon – Control surfaces used
on a flying wing or Delta wing
type airplanes, located at the
trailing edge of the wing like
ailerons. Elevons move both up
or down together to control the
pitch axis like an elevator, and
move differentially to control
the roll axis like ailerons.
Elevons require either a
mechanical or electronic chan­nel mixer.

Engine – The source of thrust of
an airplane.

Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV)

- Device used to read the battery
voltage of the on board battery
pack or transmitter battery pack.

Flaps – Hinged control surface
located at the trailing edge of the
wing inboard of the ailerons.
The flaps are lowered to produce
more aerodynamic lift from the
wing, allowing a slower takeoff
and landing speed. Maneuvering
flaps move up and down in con­junction with the elevator, and
enhance the pitch control of the
airplane. This is used on some
aerobatic type of models, and
requires a mechanical or elec­tronics channel mixer. Note:
Flaps and Maneuvering Flaps
are advanced features and are
not necessary or recommended
on trainer aircraft.

Flaperon – Control Surfaces on a
standard type airplane, located
at the trailing edge of the wing,
which function as ailerons by
moving differentially, and as
flaps by moving up or down
together. Flaperons require
either a mechanical or electronic
channel mixer. Note: Flaperons
are an advanced feature and are
not recommended on trainer

aircraft.

Flight Box – A special box used

to hold and transport all equip­ment used at the flying field.

Flight Pack – or Airborne pack.
All of the radio equipment
installed in the airplane, i.e.,

Receiver, Servos, Battery,
Switch harness.

Foam Rubber – A soft foam

material used to wrap the
receiver and airborne battery for
vibration dampening in the
airplane.

Fuel Over Flow Line (Vent) – The
fuel line which is either open to

atmospheric pressure or attaches
to the muffler pressure nipple, to
pressurize the fuel tank for bet­ter fuel flow to the engine. This is
the line through which the fuel
will overflow when the tank is
full.

Fuel Pick Up Line – The fuel line
in the fuel tank through which
the fuel travels to the
carburetor. Typically a flexible
tube with a weight or "Clunk"
on the end which allows it to fol­low the fuel with changes in air­craft altitude. This is the line
through which the tank is filled.

Fuel Tank – The container
which holds the fuel in an air­plane.

Fuselage – The body of an air­plane

Fun Fly Airplane – A specialty
model designed to be very light­weight and perform very tight,
rapid, maneuvers such as loops
and rolls.

Glow Plug Clip/Battery – A 1.2
volt battery, which is connected
to the glow plug on a model air­plane engine for starting. The
battery is removed once the
engine is running steadily.

High Wing – An airplane with
the wing mounted on top of the

fuselage.

Hinge – A flexible or hinged blade

which is glued into a control sur­face and trailing edge to allow con­trol surface deflection or move­ment. Note: It is extremely impor­tant that all hinges are permanent­ly glued into both the control sur­face and trailing edge. Improper
gluing will cause a crash.

32

Words shown in italics are defined elsewhere in this glossary.

Horizontal Stabilizer – The hor­izontal tail surface at the back
of the fuselage which provides
aerodynamic pitch stability and
control to the airplane.

Low Wing – An airplane with
the wing mounted on the bot­tom of the fuselage.

Main Landing Gear – The land­ing gear and wheels which are
usually on the bottom of the
fuselage under the wing on a
high wing airplane, or on the
bottom of the wing on a low
wing airplane.

Mid Wing – An airplane with
the wing mounted in the center
of the fuselage, between the top
and bottom.

Muffler – A device attached to
the exhaust stack of the engine
to reduce noise, and increase
back pressure which helps low
speed performance. Note: Most
R/C Clubs require the use of
mufflers.

Needle Valve – Adjustment on a
carburetor used to set proper

fuel mixture. Some carburetors
have separate needle adjust­ments for low and high throttle.
Typically turning the needle
clockwise (screwing in) leans
the mixture and vice versa.
However, there are a few excep­tions—refer to the engine man­ufacturer’s instructions.

NiCd – Nickel Cadmium bat­tery. Rechargeable batteries
which are typically used as
power for radio control trans-

mitters and receivers.

Nitro – NitroMethane, a fuel

additive which increases a
model airplanes’ ability to idle
low and improves high speed
performance. Ideal nitro con­tent varies from engine to
engine. Refer to the engine
manufacturers’ instructions for
best results. Nitro content in
fuel is indicated by the percent
of the fuel.

Nose Gear – The landing gear at
the nose of the airplane if the
airplane is a Tricycle landing
gear type. Typically connected
to the rudder servo for ground
steering.

Pattern Airplane – A model air­plane designed to perform pre­cision aerobatics.

Pitch Axis – The airplane axis
controlled by the elevator. Pitch
is illustrated by holding the air­plane at each wingtip. Raising
or lowering the nose is the pitch
movement. This is how the
climb or dive is controlled.

Pushrod-A rigid piece of wood,
fiberglass, nylon or steel used to
transfer movement from a
servo to a control surface or
throttle.

Pylon Racing Airplane – A
model airplane designed for
racing. They are flown around a
set course of (3) "Pylons."

Receiver (Rx) – The radio unit
in the airplane which receives
the transmitter signal and
relays the control to the servos.
This is somewhat similar to the
radio you may have in your
family automobile, except the

radio in the airplane perceives
commands from the transmit­ter and the radio in your car
perceives music from the radio
station.

Roll Axis – The airplane axis
controlled by the ailerons. Roll
is illustrated by holding the air­plane by the nose and tail.
Dropping either wingtip is the
roll movement. This is used to
bank or turn the airplane.

Rudder – Hinged control surface
located at the trailing edge of the
vertical stabilizer, which pro­vides control of the airplane
about the Yaw axis and causes
the airplane to Yaw left or right.
Left rudder movement causes
the airplane to Yaw left and right
rudder movement causes it to
Yaw right.

Sailplane – An airplane which
flies without an engine.
Sailplanes are designed to ride
on warm, rising air currents,
called thermals. Sailplanes are
launched by several methods; a
giant sling shot called a high
start, a winch which pulls the
sailplane up like a kite, or with
the assistance of a small engine
or electric motor.

Servo – The electronic/
mechanical device which
moves the control surfaces or
throttle of the airplane accord­ing to commands from the
receiver. The radio device
which does the physical work
inside the airplane.

Servo Output Arm – The remov­able arm or wheel which bolts to
the output shaft of a servo and

33

Words shown in italics are defined elsewhere in this glossary.

connects to the pushrod.

Spinner – The nose cone which
covers the hub of the propeller.

Sport Airplane – A model
which possesses some attribut­es of many of the specialty air­planes and are best for general
flying as they are the most ver­satile and durable.

Switch Harness – The on/off
switch for the flight pack which
is mounted in an accessible
location on the fuselage.

Tachometer – An optical sen­sor designed specifically to
count light impulses through a
turning propeller and read out
the engine RPM.

Tail Wheel – The wheel at the
tail of the airplane on standard
landing gear or tail dragger
type airplanes. Steering is typi­cally coupled to the rudder for
ground handling.

Threaded Horns – Small nylon
horns which thread onto the
threaded portion of the aileron

torque rods and connect to the
clevis of the aileron pushrods.

Torque Rods – Rigid bent wire

rods inserted into ailerons,
running along the wing trailing
edge and bent down to connect
to the aileron servo push rods.

Trainer Airplane – A model
designed to be inherently sta­ble and fly at low speeds, to
give first time modelers time to
think and react as they learn to
fly.

Transmitter (Tx) – The hand
held radio controller.This is the
unit that sends out the com­mands that you input.

Transmitter Modes –
Mode I. Left hand stick controls
elevator and rudder. Right

hand stick controls throttle and

aileron.

Mode II. Left hand stick con-

trols throttle and rudder. Right
hand stick controls elevator
and aileron. Mode II is by far
the most popular in the United
States.

Mode III. Left hand stick con­trols throttle and aileron. Right
hand stick controls elevator
and rudder.

Single Stick. A special trans­mitter with only one stick.
Elevator and aileron are con-

trolled with the stick. Rudder is
controlled by twisting the end
of the stick. Throttle is con­trolled by a lever on the top or
side of the transmitter. Note:
Single stick equipment is no
longer being produced by most
of the radio manufacturers.

V-Tail – An airplane which has
two tail surfaces in the shape of
a V, in lieu of a vertical stabiliz­er and horizontal stabilizer.
The control surfaces on a V-tail
are called ruddervators and
function both in the same
direction as an elevator and in
opposite directions as a rudder.

Vertical Stabilizer – The non­moving surface that is perpen­dicular to the horizontal stabi­lizer and provides lateral stabil-

ity. This is the surface the
rudder attaches to.

Wheel Collar – A small, round
retaining device used to keep
wheels from sliding off an axle.

Wing - The main lifting surface
of an airplane.

Yaw Axis – The airplane axis
controlled by the rudder. Yaw
is illustrated by hanging the air­plane level by a wire located at
the center of gravity. Left or
right movement of the nose is
the Yaw movement. Many air­craft are not equipped with
ailerons and the roll and Yaw
axis are controlled by the rud­der. This is due to the larger
amount of dihedral in the wing.
This is why most trainer aircraft
have a larger amount of dihe­dral.

Z Bend – A simple Z shaped
bend in the wire end of a
pushrod which is used to
attach the pushrod to a servo

output arm.

Z Bend Pliers – An inexpensive

plier type tool used for easily
making perfect Z bends.

34

Words shown in italics are defined elsewhere in this glossary.

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchase Date Date Construction Finished

Where Purchased Finished Weight

Date Construction Started Date of First Flight

Flight Log

35

Ask for these fine Hobbico accessories at
your favorite hobby retailer.

HCAP3200

TorqMaster 90 Starter

HCAP0800

TorqMaster LC 12 Volt Battery

HCAQ2020

#64 Rubber Bands 1/4 lb.

HCAP5020

Ultra Tote Field Box

HCAP3105

Top Fueler MKII

HCAP2550

4-Way Wrench

HCAP3015

Hand Crank Fuel Pump

HCAP2503

Twist/Lock Glow Plug Clip

HCAP2520

Hot Shot II Standard

HCAP0100 RC Multi-Charger
HCAP0210 Power Core Charger
HCAP0300 Deluxe Power Panel
HCAP0351 Expanded Scale Voltmeter MKII
HCAP0356 Digital Voltmeter MKII
HCAP0900 Power Core Starter Pack

HCAQ2030 #64 Rubber Bands 1 lb.
HCAP2175 Exhaust Deflector .35-.90
HCAP2200 Recoil Fuel Tubing
HCAQ1000 Latex Foam Rubber 1/4”
HCAQ1050 Latex Foam Rubber 1/2”
HCAR0311 #1 Hobby Blades 100 pcs.

GPMR6002 Pro CA Glue Thin 1 oz.
GPMR6014 Pro CA- Glue Thick 1 oz.
GPMR6045 Pro Epoxy 6 Min. 9 oz.
GPMR6047 Pro Epoxy 30 Min. 9 oz.

Other Items Available:

Entire Contents © Copyright 2001