Hobbico Superstar 40 ARF User Manual

1610 Interstate Drive Champaign, IL 61822

[phone], Ext. 2

[e-mail]

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

WARRANTY

Hobbico®guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.This warranty

does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification.In no case shall Hobbico’s liability exceed the original cost
of the purchased kit. Further, Hobbico reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Hobbico has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase .

HCAZ3084 for HCAA2020 V:1.0 © Copyright 2002

See more of our products at

www.hobbico.com

Wingspan: 60 in [1524mm]
Wing Area: 660 sq in [42.6dm2]
Weight: 5.5 lbs [2495g]
Wing Loading: 19 oz/ sq ft [58 g/dm

2

]
Engine: .40 cu in [6.5cc] two-stroke
Radio: 4-channel, 4 servos

™

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Hobbico
SuperStar .40™ARF. You’ve made the right decision by
purchasing a “real”model airplane with a .40-size engine and a
4-channel radio. Once assembled and set up, there will be no
fiddling with a temperamental engine or constant
troubleshooting to figure out how to get the model to fly. Under
the guidance of an experienced flight instructor, all you’ll have
to do is concentrate on learning to fly. And after you’ve
mastered the SuperStar, the engine and radio may be installed
in your next model!

Join the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics). In addition
to other vital functions, the AMA, the governing body of model
aeronautics in the United States, provides insurance to
members who comply with the Safety Code. You must be a
member to fly at R/C clubs chartered by the AMA–most of
which are. The AMA can also direct you to the closest club
whose membership should have qualified flight instructors. To
join the AMA, telephone, write or fax them at the address
below, or join on-line at www.modelaircraft.org.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

www.modelaircraft.org

1.Your SuperStar .40 ARF should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much
like a full-size airplane.Because of its performance capabilities,
the SuperStar .40 ARF, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators
and damage to property.

2.You must assemble the model according to the

instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from drawings or sketches. In those instances the
written instructions should be considered as correct.

3.You must check the operation of the model bef ore every flight
to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has
remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other
connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of
wear or fatigue.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality kit and
instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished
model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any
way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no
representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

Protect Y our Model,Y ourself

and Others...Follow these

Important Safety Precautions

IMPORTANT

Once mastered, piloting a model aircraft can be one of the
most enjoyable hobbies around. However, it cannot be
stated stronglyenough that, if you do not already know how
to fly an R/C airplane, you will probably not be able to fly this
model by yourself .It may appear to be easy , but ov er-

controlling
and disorientation quickly overcome inexperienced fliers,
swiftly ending their first flight.The best thing you can do to
insure success is to find a flight instructor who will inspect
your model for airworthiness and provide flying lessons. If
you haven’t yet done so, contact the local hobby shop

and ask them to introduce you to an instructor or an R/C
club representative. If there is no club or experienced R/C

pilot nearby, it would be worth even a long drive to find
one–if only for just a few flight lessons (then you’ll have an
idea of what to expect).

Introduction

2

A four-channel radio control system is required to fly this model.
“Four-channels”means that the system is capable of controlling
four separate functions in the plane. In the case of your
SuperStar, this would be ailerons, elevator, rudder and
throttle. If purchasing a new system, be certain it comes with
four servos (some systems come with only three servos, so a
fourth may have to be purchased separately). A 6" servo
extension wire for the aileron servo is also required (see the
“Hardware” list on this page), but some radio control systems
include the extension. So, it may not have to be purchased
separately.

A .40 cu in [6.5cc] 2-cycle model engine and suitable propeller
(and spare propellers) are also required to fly the SuperStar.
The number .40 refers to engine displacement in cubic inches.
Most .40 cu in engines recommended for this model run well
with a 10 x 6 propeller (but consult the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to be certain). When sizing a propeller, the first
number refers to the propeller diameter in inches.The second
numbers refers to the propeller pitch in inches.

There are two types of glue that are
recommended for assembling this
model.The first type, Cyanoacrylate, is
more commonly known as “super glue.”
Most modelers just call it “CA.” CA
comes in different viscosities

(thickness).

Both thin and medium viscosity are
recommended for this model and are

listed in the

Building Supplies

section that follows. Thin CA
rapidly absorbs into wood and is best for bonding parts that are
already together. Thin CA is also required for gluing in the
hinges (as you will see when you get to that part of assembly).
Medium CA is good for joining parts that require positioning
before joining them together, or for filling small gaps in parts
that don’t fit perfectly. CA doesn’t always cure immediately.
When instant curing is required, CA “activator” can be applied

to make the CA harden right away. Activator (also known as
“accelerator”) is usually sprayed out of a small bottle.

One accessory recommended for
applying CA is CA Applicator Tips
(HCAR3780). These small tips fit on
the top of the bottle and help direct and
control the amount of CA that comes

out. When the tip becomes clogged,
just cut off the end and keep going. After the applicator tip
becomes too short, just replace it with another.

The second type of adhesive that is

used for assembling this model is

epoxy. There are different working

times for epoxy (5-minute, 15-minute,

30-minute, etc.), but 30-minute is

recommended. Longer working time

allows more time for positioning and

joining the parts, and provides a
stronger bond as more epoxy can be absorbed into the
material before it

hardens. Epoxy is also recommended for

fuelproofing bare

wood.

In addition to the radio and engine, the following items will
also be required:

Adhesives & Tools

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro

™

CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 3/32" [2.4mm]
❏ Small metal file
❏ 1/16" hex driver wrench (“Allen” wrench)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Pro Threadlocker thread locking compound

(GPMR6060)

❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)

Hardware

❏ 6" [150mm] Ser vo extension wire (HCAM2701 for

Futaba

®

)

❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] – HCAQ1000, or 1/2" [13mm]

– HCAQ1050)

❏ 3' [900mm] Standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)

Optional Items

The following items are not absolutely necessary, but are

mentioned

in the manual and will assist in assembling your model.

❏ 21st Century

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)

Building Supplies

IMPORTANT: Read the war ning labels on all glue containers. Be

especially certain to use CA in a well-ventilated area.After applying
CA, step back or look away from the work to avoid the vapors. CA
bonds skin immediately. If this happens, CA debonder or acetone
fingernail polish remover will dissolve the CA after a few minutes.
Never point the CA tip toward your face and be careful when
opening a clogged tip.

Notes About Glue

Additional Items Required

3

❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

When ready to fly, you’ll need the equipment to fuel the plane
and start the engine. Perhaps you’ve already made
arrangements with the R/C club or your flight instructor to
borrow their equipment, but eventually you’ll want to get your
own. Some of the items are photographed or listed on the side
of the kit box cover. Additionally, a field box will be required to
carry the equipment.

Before beginning assembly, inspect the parts in this kit to make
sure they are of acceptable quality.If any parts are defective or
damaged, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact
Product Support.

Hobbico Product Support:

Phone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

Kit Inspection

Field Equipment

4

5

Parts List

❏ 1. Wing
❏ 2. Fuselage (nose gear factory installed)
❏ 3. Fin with rudder
❏ 4. Stabilizer with elevator
❏ 5. Main landing gear wires
❏ 6. 2-3/4" main wheels
❏ 7. 1/4" dowels
❏ 8. Plywood aileron servo mount
❏ 9. Plywood pushrod tube brace
❏ 10. Fuel tank w/hardware

❏ 11. Plywood fuselage servo tray
❏ 12. Plywood wing joiners
❏ 13. 2" spinner
❏ 14. These parts not used
❏ 15. Hardware

(see detailed list below)

Hardware

(2) Brass body for screw-lock pushrod

connector (throttle, nose steering)

(6) 6-32 Blind nuts (factory-installed,

4-

engine mount, 2-nose gear mount)

(2) Nylon control horns (1-elevator,

1-

rudder)

(1) 5/32" Nylon nose steer ing arm (factory

installed)

(5) Nylon clevis (2-ailerons, 1-elevator,

1-

rudder)

(2) Nylon landing gear straps (main

landing gear)
(15) CA hinges
(4) Nylon Faslinks (2-ailerons, 1-elevator,

1-rudder)
(2) Nylon torque rod horns (aileron

torque rods)
(2) 3/16" Gray pushrod tubes (elevator,

rudder, throttle, antenna guide)

(5) Silicone retainers (for clevises)
(7) 6-32 x 1/8" Socket set screws (6-wheel

collars, 1-nose gear collar)

(1) 6-32 x 1/4" Socket-head cap screw

(nose steering arm)

(2) 4-40 x 1/4" Socket-head cap screws

(screw-lock pushrod connectors)

(6) 6-32 x 3/4" Screws (factory-installed,

4-engine mount, 2-nose gear mount)

(8) 5/32" Wheel collars (6-wheels, 1-nose

steering arm, 1-nose gear)
(1) 17-1/2" Wire pushrod (throttle)
(2) 36" Wire pushrods (1-elevator , 1-rudder)
(2) 6" Wire pushrods (ailerons)
(6) #6 Washer (factory installed, 4-engine

mount, 2-nose gear mount)
(4) 2-56 x 1/2" Screw (elevator and rudder

control horns)
(8) #2 x 1/2" Screw (4-main landing gear

straps, 4-servo tray)

(12) #64 Rubber bands
(1) Engine mount (factory installed)
(2) Metal engine mounting straps
(4) 4mm Nuts (engine mounting)
(4) 4mm Washers (engine mounting)
(4) 4mm Lock washers (engine mounting)
(4) 4 x 25mm Screws (engine mounting)
(1) Nose gear mount (factory installed)

1

2

3

4

1

13

15

11

10

12

14

14

6

6

5

5

7

8

9

Hinge the Ailerons

Start with the right wing first.

❏ ❏ 1. Carefully remove the masking tape holding the aileron

to the wing. Also remove the protective foam block on the
aileron torque rod.

❏ ❏ 2. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to “loosen-up” the

precut hinge slots in the wing to help the hinges go in easier.
This is done by inserting the blade into the hinge slot and
moving it from side-to-side several times. Note that the back
edge of the blade is the part that does the work.

❏ ❏ 3. Inser t a CA hinge halfway into each hinge slot in the

aileron.Test fit the aileron to the wing and to the aileron torque
rod with the hinges.

❏ ❏ 4. Mark the exact location of the hinges by cutting small

slits through the covering on both sides of the hinges in the
wing and aileron.

❏ ❏ 5. Remove the aileron from the wing and take out the

hinges.Cut a small strip of covering from the hinge slots in the
aileron and the wing between the slits you cut. Hint: Use a
small metal straightedge as a cutting guide.

❏ ❏ 6. Lay a few paper towels neatly on top of each other.

Use a pair of scissors to cut them into small squares. These
paper towel squares will come in handy throughout the
assembly process (and will save y ou from w asting whole paper
towels for small jobs).

❏ ❏ 7. Mix a small batch of 30-minute epoxy. Use a toothpick

or a small piece of wire to work some epoxy into the hole and
the groove in the aileron f or the torque rod.Also coat the torque
rod with epoxy.

❏ ❏ 8.Join the aileron to the wing with the hinges. Be certain

that the hinges remain centered. If any hinges do not remain
centered, stick a pin through the hinge near the middle, then
rejoin the aileron to the wing. Pull out any pins you may have
used. Use a paper towel square to wipe away epoxy that has
squeezed out of the aileron.

Assemble the Wing

6

❏ ❏ 9. Position the aileron so there is a small gap between

the aileron and the wing–just enough to see light through or to
slip a piece of paper through. Add six drops of thin CA to the
top of each hinge.Wait a few seconds between drops to allow
the CA to fully soak in so it does not get into the gap. After
gluing the tops of all the hinges, flip the wing over and add six
drops of CA to the bottom of each hinge.Keep the paper towel
squares close by to absorb excess CA that doesn’t get into the
hinges.

❏ 10. Return to step 1 and hinge the left wing the same way.

Join the Wing Halves

❏ 1. Use epoxy to securely glue together both 1/8" [3mm]

plywood wing joiners. Clamp the joiners together and wipe
away excess epoxy that squeezes out.

❏ 2.After the epoxy from the previous step has hardened, test

fit the joiner in one, then the other wing half.Test join the wings
with the joiner.

❏ 3. Lay one wing panel flat on your workbench.Measure the

distance between the bottom of the raised end of the wing and
the workbench. The measurement should be 3-1/4" to 4-1/4"
[80mm to 110mm].

❏ 4.Separate the wings.Cut out the sheeting so the servo can

go half-way in.If necessary, enlarge the cutout in the rib so the
servo will fit. Prepare the other wing half the same way.

❏ 5.Mix up 1/2 oz. [15ml] of 30-minute epoxy.Working quickly,

pour a generous amount into one of the wing halves where the
joiner goes. Use a piece of stiff wire or something similar to
spread the epoxy all around the inside to coat all the surfaces.
Thoroughly coat one half of the joiner with epoxy as well.

Insert
the coated end of the joiner into the wing. Coat the rib on the
end of the wing with epoxy (an epoxy brush works well f or this).

❏ 6.Use the remainder of the epoxy to coat the protruding end

of the joiner and the inside of the opening in the other wing half.
Join the wings and use your paper towel squares to wipe away
excess epoxy as it squeezes out.

7

❏ 7. Tightly tape the wing halves together with several strips

of masking tape on the top and bottom. Continue to wipe away
excess epoxy as it comes out.Be certain the front and back of
both wings accurately align. Do not disturb the wing until the
epoxy has hardened.

Hook Up the Ailerons

❏ 1. Cut the covering from the bottom of the wing for the 1/8"

[3mm] plywood aileron servo mount.Glue the servo mount to
the wing with epoxy. Make sure the mount is level and fill the
gap on both sides with epoxy.

Refer to this photo for the following seven steps.

❏ 2. Cut a hole in the sheeting so the servo wire can come

through (the hole can be seen in the photo at step 6).Guide the
servo wire out the hole and install the servo.

❏ 3. Use wire cutters to cut two of the arms off a four-arm

servo arm. Install the arm on the aileron ser vo.

❏ 4. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the ser vo mount for the

servo mounting screws, then temporarily mount the servo using
the eyelets, rubber grommets and screws that came with it.
Remove the screws, add a few drops of thin CA to the holes,
allow to fully harden, then remount the servo.This process is
important to harden the “threads” in the wood so the screws
remain tight.

❏ 5.Thread the nylon torque rod hornsonto the aileron

torque

rods until the horns are even with the ends of the torque rods.

❏ 6.Thread a nylon clevis twenty full turns onto a 6" [150mm]

wire pushrod that is threaded on one end. Connect the clevis

to the torque rod horn. Align the pushrod with the servo arm,
then use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the pushrod where it
crosses the servo holes. Note: The aileron must be centered
during this procedure (the bottom of the aileron should be even
with the bottom of the wing).

8

❏ 7. Disconnect the pushrod from the torque rod horn. Use

pliers to make a 90° bend in the pushrod at the mark you
made. Fit a nylon Faslink to the pushrod, then cut off the
excess pushrod 1/16" [2mm] above the Faslink.

❏ 8. Enlarge the holes in the servo arm with a #48 or 5/64"

[2mm] drill or a hobby knife. Connect the pushrod to the third
hole out on the servo arm. Note: If using ser vo arms different
than the Futaba servo arms shown in this manual, connect the
pushrod to a hole that is as close as possible to 17/32" [13mm]
from the center.

9. Make and connect the other pushrod the same way.

Now the wing is finished. Set it aside while working on the
fuselage.

Mount the Landing Gear

❏ 1. Use a small metal file to file a 1/8" [3mm] wide “flat spot”

1/8" [3mm] from the end of both main landing gear wires.

❏ 2. Mount the wheels to the landing gear with a 5/32" wheel

collar on both sides of each wheel. Add a small drop of non­permanent thread locking compound (such as Great Planes
Threadlocker GPMR6060) to two 6-32 set screws and thread
them into the collars using a 1/16" hex (“Allen”) wrench.
Position the wheel collars, then tighten the set screws. Be
certain the set screw in the outer wheel collar is in the flat spot.

❏ 3. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to round the inner

edges of the holes in the landing gear rail in the bottom of the
fuselage for the main landing gear. This way, the landing gear
wires will go all the way down.Fuelproof the bare wood in the
groove by applying a light coat of epoxy.

#2 x 1/2" [13mm] screw

❏ 4.Insert the main landing gear wires into the holes, then drill

1/16" holes for the nylon straps.Mount the gear to the bottom
of the fuselage with the straps and four #2 x 1/2" [13mm]

screws.

Assemble the Fuselage

9

Mount the Stab and Fin

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to securely glue in the 1/4" [6mm]

wing dowels.The longer dowel goes in front.After positioning
the dowels, lightly coat them with epo xy so they will be

fuelproofed.

❏ 2.The same way you joined the ailerons to the wing, cut the

covering from the hinge slots and join the elevator to the stab
and the rudder to the fin with the hinges. Use thin CA to
permanently glue in the hinges.

❏ 3. Taking accurate measurements, use a fine-point felt-tip

pen to mark the center of the stabilizer on the trailing edge.
Insert the stabilizer into the fuselage. Center the mar k on the
aft end of the fuselage, then stick a pin through the fuselage
and the stab to hold it in position.

❏ 4. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark both ends of the stab

where the leading edge meets the tip under the covering.

❏ 5. Measure the distance between the fuselage and the

marks on both sides of the stab. Adjust the stab until both
measurements are equal and the stab is centered.

❏ 6. Using a fine-point felt-tip pen, draw lines around the top

and bottom of both sides of the stabilizer where it goes into the
fuselage.

❏ 7.Take the stab out of the fuselage.Refer to the

Expert Tip

that follows, or use a hobby knife with a new, shar p #11 blade
to cut along the covering 1/32" [1mm] inside the lines you
marked.Use great care to cut only into the covering and not

10

into the balsa beneath. Cutting too deep will weaken the
structure, possibly causing the stab to break during flight.

❏ 8. Peel the covering from the stab. Use one of your paper

towel squares lightly moistened with denatured alcohol to wipe
the ink from the stab and the fuselage.

❏ 9. Mix 1/4 oz. of 30-minute epoxy. Apply epoxy to both sides

of the stab where it contacts the fuselage and in the fuselage
where it contacts the stab. Slide the stab into position and
center-it-up as you did with the pin and by taking
measurements as in steps 3 & 5.Wipe away excess epoxy. Do
not disturb the fuselage until the epoxy has hardened.

❏ 10. Test fit the fin in the fuselage. Similar to what was done

for the stab, mark the outline of the fin onto the top of the
fuselage, then cut away the covering and wipe away the ink.

❏ 11. Glue the fin into the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy. Be

certain to apply epoxy to both the fin and the fuselage where
they contact each other. Immediately after inserting the fin and
before the epoxy hardens, use a builder’s triangle to make
certain the fin is perpendicular to the stab. If it is not, use
masking tape to pull the fin to one side or the other to get it
vertical.

Mount the Engine and Radio Tray

❏ 1.Mount the engine to the mount with two metal straps, four

4 x 25mm screws and 4mm lock washers and 4mm nuts. Be
certain the engine is pointing straight ahead, and is not slanted
off to one side or the other.Note that the lock washers go under
the heads of the screws.Be certain the engine is centered and
that the screws are ev enly tightened.Do not use a small, hobby
screwdriver to tighten the screws. A large (No. 2) Phillips
screwdriver is preferred.

An alternate way to cut the covering over the stabilizer is to
use a soldering iron. This way, you will not risk accidentally
cutting into the balsa. A fine solder ing tip is not necessary,
but does work best. Using a metal straightedge as a guide,
move the soldering iron just fast enough to melt through the
covering.Be careful not to burn the wood, otherwise you will
have defeated the pur pose of using a soldering iron to cut
only the covering.

11

❏ 2.Balance the propeller and spare propellers. Most .40-size

engines that will be used on this model run best with a 10 x 6
(10" diameter, 6" pitch) propeller, but refer to the

manufacturer’s
recommendations that came with your engine. The Top Flite
Power Point Precision Magnetic Propeller Balancer

(TOPQ5700)

is illustrated in the photo.

❏ 3. Mount the back plate of the spinner and the propeller to

the engine.Tighten the propeller nut “finger-tight,” then use the
appropriate-size wrench (10mm for most .40 engines) or a
crescent wrench to fully tighten the nut. 1/2-turn, plus 1/8 turn
should be sufficient.Note: Do not install the muffler until

instructed

to do so.

❏ 4. Prepare the fuel tank as shown in the photo, first by

inserting two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper,

followed by the metal plates and the screw. Bend one of the
tubes upward so it will be near the top of the tank when the
stopper is inserted. This tube will be connected to the muffler
and serves both as an overflow line (to signify when the tank is
full) and as a pressure line to provide muffler pressure to the
tank. Connect the clunk to the other tube with the silicone tube
that came in the tank. Note that the silicone tube must be cut
to the correct length, so that when the tank is assembled, the
clunk does not contact the back of the tank. Otherwise, the
clunk could become stuck near the top of the tank, thus
discontinuing fuel flow.

❏ 5.Insert the rubber stopper in the tank, then securely tighten

the screw. Shake the tank and listen for the clunk inside. If the
clunk stops making noise, the fuel line may be too long and the
clunk may have become stuck. Disassemble the tank and
shorten the fuel line as necessar y.

❏ 6. Install the fuel tank in the fuselage with the neck of the

tank protruding through the hole in the firewall. Make certain
you have installed the tank upright (with the pressure tube
inside the tank pointing upward).

❏ 7.Test fit the 1/8" [3mm] plywood radio tray in the fuselage

over the four pre-glued mounting blocks. If necessary, use a
hobby knife to trim the notches in the battery tray so it will fit.
Note:The battery tray also keeps the fuel tank from shifting aft.

❏ 8. Wrap the battery pack and receiver in 1/4" [6mm] R/C

foam rubber (if 1/4" R/C foam rubber is not available, 1/2"
[13mm] is suitable–it just takes up a little more space).
Securely mount the battery and receiver to the radio tray with
the Velcro strips included with the kit.

12

❏ 9. Mount the radio tray in the fuselage with the #2 x 3/8"

[10mm] screws.

Mount the Servos

❏ 1. Make two 18" [460mm] pushrod tubes from the 3/16"

[4.8mm] gray pushrod tubes supplied with this kit. (It doesn’t
matter which tubes you cut them from as there will be plenty of
tubing leftover anyway.) Thoroughly roughen both ends of the
tubes with coarse sandpaper so glue will adhere. Do not use

any glue until instructed to do so.

❏ 2. Enlarge the holes in the fuselage so the pushrod tubes

will go through. The holes should be long enough to
accommodate the tubes at a small angle as shown in the
sketch above.

❏ 3.Guide the tubes through the holes up through the

fuselage

into the radio compartment.

❏ 4. Fit the tubes through the 1/8" [3mm] plywood pushrod

brace, then position the brace behind the former as shown.

Refer to this photo while installing the servos and hooking
up the pushrods.

❏ 5. The same as was done for the aileron servo, make one

two-arm servo arm and two one-arm servo arms by cutting off
the unused arms. Save two of the cut off arms for use later
when hooking up the antenna.

❏ 6. Install a brass screw-lock pushrod connector in the third

hole out into the two-arm servo arm (or, like the aileron servo

13

arm, to a hole that is as close to 17/32" [13mm] as possible).
Secure the connector with a nylon retainer.

❏ 7. Place the servos in the servo tray as shown in the photo

at step 5. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the servo tray for
mounting the servos. Mount the servos in the tray with the
screws that came with the servos.

❏ 8. Remove the screws and the servos.“Harden” the holes in

the servo tray with a drop of thin CA in each hole.Allow to fully
harden, then reinstall the servos with the screws.

❏ 9.Insert the nose-steering pushrod into the screw-lock pushrod

connector on the rudder servo.

❏ 10. Thread a nylon clevis onto a 36" [910mm] wire pushrod

twenty full turns.Cut the mounting plate from a control horn,
then connect the clevis on the pushrod to the third hole from
the bottom of the horn. Cut 9 inches [230mm] from the
unthreaded end of the pushrod. This will be the elevator
pushrod. Prepare the rudder pushrod the same way, only
connect the clevis to the second hole from the bottom of the
control horn. Guide the pushrods through the respective tubes
in the fuselage.

#2-56 x 1/2" [13mm] screw

❏ 11. Position the rudder control horn on the rudder so the

clevis holes in the horn are in line with the hinge gap as shown
in the sketch. Using the mounting holes in the control horn as
a template, drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the rudder for

mounting the horn. Mount the horn with two 2-56 x 1/2" [13mm]
screws and the mounting plate.

❏ 12.Mount the elevator control horn to the elevator using the

same procedure described in the previous step.

❏ 13. The same way you did for the aileron pushrods, use a

felt-tip pen to mark the elevator and rudder pushrods where
they cross the holes in the servo arms.Disconnect the clevises
from the control horns, then make 90° bends in the pushrods
at the marks.

❏ 14. Enlarge the holes in the elevator and rudder servo

arms with a #48 or 5/64" [2mm] drill or a hobby knife so the

pushrods will fit.Connect the elevator pushrod to the thirdhole
in the elevator servo arm (or 17/32" [13mm] from center) and
the rudder pushrod to the third hole on the rudder servo arm
(or 17/32" [13mm] from center). Secure the pushrods with a
Faslink.Cut off the excess wire 1/16" [2mm] above the Faslink,
then connect the servo arms to the servos.

❏ 15. Adjust the clevises on the back of the pushrods so the

elevator and rudder will be centered, then fit them onto the
control horns. The clevis on the elevator pushrod should be in
the third hole from the base of the hor n and the clevis on the
rudder pushrod should be in the second hole from the base of
the horn.

Now it’s time to glue…

❏ 16.With the pushrods connected to the servos, use medium

CA to glue the pushrod brace to the back of the former and to

14

the servo tray as shown. Use thin or medium CA to glue the
pushrod tubes to the brace and the fuselage where they exit.

Let’s hook up the throttle...

❏ 17. Cut a 12" [300mm] pushrod tube from any remaining

3/16" [4.8mm] gray pushrod tubing. Roughen one end of the
tube with coarse sandpaper so glue will adhere. Guide the
pushrod tube through the hole in the firewall and through the
fuselage until 1/8" [3mm] of the roughened end protrudes from
the firewall.

❏ 18. Fit a screw-lock pushrod connector in the second from

the center hole of the throttle servo arm. Secure the screw-lock
pushrod connector with a nylon retainer.

❏ 19. Thread a nylon clevis onto the end of the 18" [460mm]

pushrod. Slide the pushrod into the tube, then bend the
pushrod as necessary and connect the clevis to the top hole in
the carburetor arm. Fit the other end of the pushrod into the
screw-lock pushrod connector on the throttle servo.

❏ 20. Use thin or medium CA to glue the throttle pushrod tube

in the firewall.

Now the servos are hooked up, but final adjustments have
to be made before the model will be ready to fly. First, the
antenna and on/off switch must be mounted.

Hook Up the Controls

❏ 1. Mount the on/off switch in the precut opening on the left

side of the fuselage (opposite the engine exhaust). Be cer tain
the opening is large enough to allow the switch to fully turn on
and off. If necessar y, enlarge the opening.

❏ 2. Connect the switch to the receiver and battery already

mounted in the fuselage.

❏ 3. Cut a piece of leftover 3/16" [4.8mm] gray pushrod tube

to a length of 4" [100mm]. Roughen the tube so glue will
adhere, then glue the tube to the inside of the fuselage as
shown. Guide the receiver antenna in and out the holes in one
of the servo arms you saved from earlier. Route the receiver
antenna through the tube. Drill a 3/32" [2.4mm] hole through
the top of the fuselage as shown, then guide the antenna out
of the hole.

❏ 4. Make a “hook” as shown in the photo from the other cut

off servo arm you saved.Connect the antenna to a pin stuck in
the fin via the hook and a small rubber band.Do not cut off the
rest of the antenna, but let it trail from the hook.

❏ 5. Connect a 6" servo extension wire into the aileron

receptacle in the receiver (labeled “1” in most receivers).
Connect the on/off switch and the three servos in the fuselage
to the receiver as well (in most receivers, the elevator servo
should connect to receptacle 2, the throttle servo should
connect to receptacle 3, and the rudder servo should connect
to receptacle 4). Be certain none of the ser vo wires interfere
with the pushrods.

Now the plane is assembled, but there are a few things that
must be done before it will be ready to fly.You must carefully
perform all of the following setup procedures. If possible,
have your flight instructor assist.

15

The batteries must be charged to continue.

Check the Control Directions

The first thing that has to be done is to center the controls
and make sure they all move in the right direction.

❏ 1. Connect the aileron servo wire coming from the wing to

the servo wire coming from the receiver. Temporarily place the
wing on the fuselage.

❏ 2. Center all the trims on the transmitter. Turn on the

transmitter, then the receiver. (The idea is to never have the
receiver on by itself. When tur ning off the system, turn off the
receiver first, then the transmitter.)

❏ 3. Obser ve the servo arms on all the servos. If necessar y,

take the servo arms off any servos that are not centered and
reposition them so they are centered.Be certain to reinstall

and

tighten any screws you ma y have removed from the servo

arms.

❏ 4. Move the right control stick on the transmitter to the right

as shown in the diagram. Observe the ailerons. The right
aileron should move upand the left aileron should move down.
Moving the control stick to the left should make the ailerons
move the opposite way. If the ailerons do not respond as
described, reverse the direction using the rever sing switchfor
the ailerons on the transmitter. If necessary, refer to the
instructions in the manual that came with your radio to identify
and operate the reversing switch.

❏ 5. Move the right stick down (pull it back) to make the

elevator go up. Move the left stick to the right to make the
rudder (and nose wheel) move right. Move the left stick down
to close the throttle.If necessary , use the re versing s witches on
the transmitter to make the controls respond in the correct
direction.

Prepare the Model for Flight

16

Set the Control Throws

The next thing that has to be done is to make sure the
controls move the correct amount.

The control throws are a measure of how far the flight controls
(ailerons, elevator and rudder) move. If the controls move too
much, the plane will respond too quickly and be difficult to
control. If the controls do not move enough, it may not be
possible to recover the plane from adverse situations or to flare
for landing. Due to the great effect the control throws have on
the way a model flies, the control throws must be checked and
corrected if necessary.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Center all the trim

levers on the transmitter.

We’ll do the elevator first…

❏ 2. View the elevator and stab from the end. The elevator

should be centered as shown in the sketch at the top. If the
elevator is not centered with the stab (as shown in the bottom
sketch), disconnect the clevis from the elevator control horn.
Holding the end of the pushrod with pliers, thread or unthread
the clevis as necessary until the elevator is centered when
reconnected to the pushrod.

❏ 3.Place the end of a ruler on your workbench and hold it up

to the elevator. Move the elevator all the way up by moving the
control stick on the transmitter. Measure the distance the
elevator mo ves. As shown in the Control Throws Chart on the
next page, the elevator should move up 1/2" [13mm]. Measure
the distance the elevator moves down.

❏ 4.If the elevator moves up 1/2" [13mm] and do wn 1/2"

[13mm]
the elevator thro w is correct (a v ariance of 1/16" [2mm] in either
direction is acceptable). If the elevator does not move up and
down 1/2" [13mm], move the pushrod to a different hole in the
control horn on the elevator. To get more throw, move the
pushrod to a hole closer to the elevator.To get less throw , mo v e
the pushrod to a hole farther out. The throw can also be
changed by moving the pushrod to different holes in the servo
arm. Refer to the diagram below.

To get the controls to move farther (

increase

the throw),
connect the pushrod to a hole farther in on the control horn,
or connect the pushrod to a hole farther out on the servo arm.
To get the controls to move less (

decrease

the throw), connect

the pushrod the opposite as described above.

❏ 5. Center the rudder and ailerons by adjusting the clevises

on the pushrods as necessary. Refer to the Control Throws
Chart for the correct measurements and check the throws. If

necessary, adjust the throws as previously described.

Note that pulling the elevator stick back moves the elevator
up (which, in flight, pushes the tail down, thus increasing the
angle of the wing thereby making the model climb).The best
way to keep this in mind is to think in terms of a pilot in an
airplane. He pulls the control stick back to “pull up” the nose
of the plane.

17

❏ 6. Center the nose wheel. Inser t and tighten a 4-40 x 1/4"

[6mm] screw in the screw-lock pushrod connector previously
installed in the rudder servo arm. Roll the model on the floor to
make sure it goes straight.If necessary , loosen the scre w in the
screw-lock pushrod connector and readjust the pushrod.

Adjust the Throttle

The throttle is to be set up so that when the throttle stick is all
the way down, and the throttle trim lever is all the way up, the
carburetor will be

nearly

, but not fully closed and the engine will
idle at a low RPM.This will keep the engine running when the
throttle stick is pulled all the way down (toward you) for landing.
When, after landing, it

is

time to shut the engine off, move the

trim lever down to fully close the carburetor.

Here’s how to set up the carburetor…

❏ 1. With the transmitter and receiver on, move the throttle

trim lever and the throttle stick all the way down. Rotate the
arm on the carburetor to fully close the carburetor. Insert a
4-40 x 1/4" [6mm] screw in the screw-lock pushrod connector
in the throttle servo arm and tighten the screw to lock the
throttle pushrod.

❏ 2. Move the throttle trim lever all the way up, but leave the

throttle stick all the way down.

Now

the carburetor should be

partially open.

❏ 3. Move the throttle stick all the way up. Now the carburetor

should be fully open.

Control Throws Chart:
Ailerons: 7/16" [11mm] up

7/16" [11mm] down

Elevator: 1/2" [13mm] up

1/2" [13mm] down

Rudder: 1" [25mm] right

1" left [25mm] left

18

❏ 4. If you are not able to achieve these settings, more or less

movement may be required from the throttle pushrod. The
same as the control surface throws, this is done by relocating
the screw-lock pushrod connector on the servo arm to another
hole, or by relocating the clevis on the carburetor arm to the
other hole.

❏ 5. Install the muffler if you have not yet done so.

❏ 6. Connect the fuel lines. If your tank was assembled as

shown in the photo on page 12, the fitting coming from the left
side of the fuel tank goes to the muffler (pressure line) and the
other fitting goes to the carburetor (fuel line) or to the needle
valve if you have a remote needle such as on the O.S.

®

MAX

LA .40 shown.

❏ 7. Insert and tighten the screws that hold the servo

arms on all four servos. Install a silicone retainer on the

clevises on the

elevator and rudder servo arms and on the aileron

torque rod

horns.

Identify Y our Model

Whether you fly at an R/C club site or somewhere on your o wn,
you should have your name, telephone number, address and
AMA number on or in your model so it can be identified and
returned in case it lands somewhere away from the flying site.
Fill out the I.D. tag on page 23 and use spray adhesive or tape
to attach it inside the fuselage.

Check the Ground Stance

Place the model on your workbench and view it from the side.
In order to taxi, takeoff and land well, the model must sit level

on the landing gear as shown. If the model does not sit level,
or, if after a hard landing the main landing gear has bent
upward, remove the main landing gear and use a bench vise
or pliers to bend it back down to achieve the correct ground
stance. If

(when)

you bend the nose gear, it should be bent

back to its original position as well.

Balance the Model

This important step is also referred to as “checking the C.G.”
(center of gravity). Simply stated, the

center of gravity

is the
point at which the model balances when lifted under the wing.
If the C.G. is too far forward, the model will be “nose-heavy”
and could be difficult to takeoff and land and lose some of its
self-correcting tendencies. If the C.G. is too far aft, the model
will be “tail-heavy” and the controls may be too sensitive,
making the model too difficult to control–especially for an
inexperienced pilot! DO NOT DISREGARD THIS STEP! Follow
the instructions to balance the model correctly, thus giving you
the greatest chances for success!

❏ 1. Use narrow tape or a felt-tip pen to mark two lines on the

bottom of the wing 3" [71mm] and 3-1/2" [89mm] from the
leading edge.

❏ 2. Make certain the model is in “ready-to-fly” condition with

all components mounted and installed (propeller, spinner,
landing gear, etc.).The fuel tank must be empty.

19

❏ 3. Mount the wing on the fuselage with four rubber bands.

Lift the model on both sides of the fuselage with your fingertips
between the lines you marked on the bottom of the wing.

❏ 4.If the fuselage will rest level with your fingertips anywhere

between the lines, the C.G. is correct. If the tail is low even
when your fingertips are on the aft lines, the plane is tail heavy
and will require nose-weight to balance.If the nose is low even
when your fingertips are on the forward lines, the plane is nose
heavy and will require tail-weight. The SuperStar will probably
balance “out of the box” without the requirement for additional
ballast. However, if the model does require weight to get it to
balance, do not be concerned. Many models require additional
weight to balance so they will fly correctly!

❏ 5. If additional weight is required to balance the plane,

purchase Great Planes Self-Adhesive Lead Weights
(GPMQ4485). The weight is segmented in 1/4 oz [7g]

increments and is easy to work with.If adding weight to the tail,
attach it to the left side of the fuselage (opposite the muffler)
under the stab. If adding weight to the nose, attach it to the
inside of the fuselage side next to the engine.

❏ 6. If you found it necessary to add weight, recheck the C.G.

after adding the weight.

Check List

Charge the Batteries

If you haven’t already done so, refer to the instruction manual
that came with your radio control system and charge the
batteries in the plane and in the transmitter.This should always
be done overnight the night before you go flying.

Gather Y our T ools

In addition to the equipment required to fuel and start the
engine mentioned near the beginning of the manual, you
should start a collection of tools that may be required for
adjustments and maintenance at the flying field. Following is a
list of the most important items.

Tools:

❏ Medium (#1) Phillips screwdriver
❏ Large (#2) Phillips screwdriver
❏ 5/16" (or 8mm) Socket wrench (for glow plug)
❏ 10mm Wrench or crescent wrench (for propeller nut)
❏ Pliers
❏ Hobby knife

Now it’s time to do a final check before taking the model to
the field. Take the time now to do these checks and make
certain your model is ready to fly.

❏ 1. Make sure the screws on all the wheel collars are fully

tightened.

❏ 2. Be certain all the nylon clevises have silicone

retainers.

❏ 3. Make certain the screws that hold on the servo arms

are present and tight.

❏ 4. Make certain the elevator, rudder and ailerons

respond in the correct directions.

❏ 5. Make sure the rubber bands that hold the wing are in

good condition.

❏ 6. Make certain the propeller nut is fully tightened.
❏ 7. Make certain you have balanced the model according

to the instructions.

❏ 8. Make sure the battery and receiver are securely

mounted and protected with R/C foam rubber.

❏ 9. Make certain you have filled out the I.D. card on page

23 and placed it inside the model.

20

Spare Parts:

❏ 10 x 6 Propellers
❏ Glow plug
❏ #64 Rubber bands (stored in container with talcum powder

or kitty litter)

Preflight checks are to be done at the flying field. Your
flight instructor should perform the checks with you.

Mount the Wing

Mount the wing to the fuselage with 12 #64 Hobbico or similar
rubber bands. Install them from front to back, crisscrossing
the last two. Never use torn, cracked or oily rubber bands.
After removing the rubber bands from your model, store them

in a container with talcum powder or clay-type kitty litter to
absorb oil and keep them fresh for the next flying session.

If the rubber bands you will be using are different from those
recommended, consult an experienced modeler to make
certain they are strong enough, and that you have used enough
of them. If uncertain, force the front of the wing off of the wing
saddle. There should be considerable resistance! If the wing
can be forced from the fuselage without having to strain your
hands, then there are probably not enough rubber bands.

Check the Controls

1. Get the frequency clip from the frequency control board at
your flying site.

2. Tur n on the transmitter and receiver.One at a time, operate
each control on the airplane using the sticks on the transmitter.
Make certain each control is responding correctly .This must be
done before every flight. There are several types of
malfunctions that can be discovered by performing this
elementary task, thus saving your model!

Range Check the Radio

A range check must be performed before the first flight of a
new model.It is not necessary to do a range check before e very
flight (but is not a bad idea to perform a range check before the
first flight of each day).A range check is the final opportunity to
reveal an y radio malfunctions , and to be certain the system has
adequate operational range.

1. Tur n on the transmitter and receiver. Leave the transmitter
antenna all the way down. Walk away from the model while
simultaneously operating the controls.Have an assistant stand

IMPORTANT!!! Flying a model with too few rubber bands
can be dangerous. If the wing momentarily lifts from the
fuselage and acts as though a large amount of “up” elevator
has suddenly been applied because there are not enough
rubber bands or they are too weak, internal structural
damage may result. Even worse, the wing could actually
detach from the fuselage resulting in a crash. If the model
exhibits any tendencies that indicate there are not enough
rubber bands, immediately reduce power, land and closely
inspect the model for damage. If no damage is found, add
more rubber bands.

IMPORTANT: Your radio control system transmits a signal
on a certain frequency. Be certain you know what that
frequency is. This is expressed as a two-digit number (42,
56, etc.), and can be found on the transmitter, on the
receiver and on the box the transmitter came in.There are
many different frequencies, but there is a chance that
someone else at the flying field may be on the same
frequency as you. If you turn on your transmitter while that
person is flying, a crash will result. NEVER turn on your
transmitter until you have permission from your instructor,
and until you have possession of the frequency clip used for
frequency control at the flying site.

Preflight Checks

21

by the model and tell you what the controls are doing to confirm
that they operate correctly. You should be able to walk
approximately 100 feet from the model and still have control
without any “glitching” or inadvertent servo operation.

2. If everything operates correctly, return to the model and start
the engine.Perf orm the range check with y our assistant holding
the plane with the engine running at various speeds. If the
servos chatter or move inadvertently, there may be a problem.
Do not fly the plane! With the assistance of your instructor,
look for loose servo connections or binding pushrods. Also be
certain you are the only one on your frequency, and that the
battery has been fully charged.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.Do not smoke near
the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off
a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.Therefore, do not run
the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the
engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils
or screwdrivers that may fall out of shir t or jacket pockets into
the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to star t the engine. Do
not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make cer tain the glow
plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or
otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller .
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after

operation.Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will
not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the
fuel line or following the engine manuf acturer’s

recommendations.
Do not use hands, fingers or any other body part to try to
stop the engine. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a
running engine.

The following flying instructions are in no way an endorsement
for learning to fly on your own, but are printed so you can know
what to expect and what to concentrate on while learning under
the tutelage of your instructor.Fur ther, these flight instructions
may be referenced once you begin flying on your own.

Taxiing

Remember, it is assumed that your instructor is operating
the model for you.

Takeoff

If possible, takeoff directl y into the wind. If you are

experienced,
taking off in a crosswind is permissible (and sometimes
necessary–depending upon the prevailing wind conditions and
runway heading).Taking off into the wind will help the model roll
straight and also reduces ground speed for takeoff. Taxi the
model onto the runway or have an assistant carry it out and set
it down pointing down the runway into the wind. When ready,
gradually advance the throttle while simultaneously using the
left stick (rudder/nose wheel) to steer the model. Gain as much
speed as the runway and flying site will practically allow before
gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. Be
ready to make immediate corrections with the ailerons to keep
the wings level, and be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing
the model to establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before
making the first turn (away from yourself). Do not “yank” back
the elevator stick forcing the plane into too steep of a climb
which could cause the model to stall and quit flying.

Flight

Once airborne, maintain a steady climb and make the initial
turn away from the runwa y.When at a comfortable, safe altitude

IMPORTANT: If you do insist on flying on your own, you
must be aware of your proximity to R/C club sites. If there is

an R/C site within six miles of where you are flying, and if
you are operating your model on the same frequency at the
same time as somebody else, there is a strong possibility
that one or both models will crash due to radio interference.
There is great potential for an out-of-control model to cause
property damage and/or severe personal injury. We
strongly urge you to fly at a R/C club site where frequency
control is in effect so you can be assured y ou will be the only
one flying on your channel.

Flying

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in
severe injury to yourself and others.

Engine Safety Precautions

22

throttle back to slow the model, thus giving you time to think
and react. The SuperStar should fly well at half or slightly less
than half-throttle.Adjust the trims so the plane flies straight and
level. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safe
altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute
practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle further to
see how the model handles when coming in to land.Add power
to see how the model climbs as well. Continue to fly around
while learning how the model responds. Mind your fuel level,
but use this first flight to become familiar with the model before
landing.

Landing

When ready to land, pull the throttle stick fully back while flying
downwind just before making the 180° turn toward the runway.
Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward to gradually
bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain
airspeed by keeping the nose down while turning. Apply up
elevator to level the plane when it reaches the end of the
runway and is about five to ten feet off the ground. If the model
is too far away, carefully add a small amount of power to fly the
model closer. If going too fast, smoothly advance the throttle
and allow the model to gain airspeed, then apply elevator to
climb-out and go around to make another attempt.When finally
ready to touch down, continue to apply up elevator, but not so
much that the airplane will climb. Continue to apply up elevator
while the plane descends until it gently touches down.

After you have landed and shut the engine off, adjust the
pushrods on the ailerons, elevator and rudder as necessary so
the trim levers on the transmitter ma y be returned to center (this
will not be required on any of the controls that did not need trim
adjustments).

Maintenance Tips

1. After flying for the day, use your fuel pump to drain excess
fuel from the tank.

2. Purchase spare #64 r ubber bands for the wing (HCAQ2020,
1/4 lb box).Do not reuse torn or oily rubber bands.After flying,
remove the oily rubber bands from the wing and store them in
a container with talcum powder or kitty litter.This will absorb oil
and keep the rubber bands fresh for the next flying session.

3. After each day’s flying (and between flights if you like), use
spray cleaner and paper towels to thoroughly clean the model.

4. The SuperStar .40 ARF is factory-covered with Top Flite

®

MonoKote®. Should repairs ever be required, the covering can
be repaired with patches cut from matching MonoKote colors.
MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops
also sell it by the foot. If only a small piece of covering is
needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give
you some. The covering is applied with a model airplane
covering iron, but in an emergency a regular iron could be used
if set to a low heat.

Ordering Replacement Parts

To order replacement parts for the SuperStar .40 ARF, use the
order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows.
Replacement parts are available only as listed.Not all parts are
available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased
separately, but is only available with the wing kit). Replacement
parts are not available from Product Support, but can be
purchased from hobby shops or mail order/Internet order firms.
Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from
these outlets. If you need assistance locating a dealer to
purchase parts, visit

www.greatplanes.com

and click on

“Where to Buy.” If this kit is missing parts, contact

Hobbico

Product Support.

Replacement Parts List

Order # Description How to Purchase

Missing Pieces Contact Product Support
Instruction Manual Contact Product Support
Plans Not available

HCAA3080 Wing Set
HCAA3081 Fuse Set
HCAA3083 Landing Gear Set
HCAA3082 Tail Set

23

Contact your hobby
supplier to purchase
these items

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased: _________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG