Assembly and operation of this aircraft must be done by or under
the direct supervision of a responsible adult. If not handled
correctly, this model is capable of inflicting serious bodily harm.
It is your responsibility and yours alone to assemble this model
correctly, properly install all R/C components and to test and
operate it in a safe and responsible manner.
Al UM007P Aluminum Channel 1
ARF1F01 Plastic Fuselage Tube 1
ARF1P01 Instruction Book 1
ARF1R05 1/64 Plywood Fin
ARF1W02 Plastic Wing Protector 1
EM20481 Engine Mount Left 1
EM2048R Engine Mount Right 1
FWING02L Molded Foam Wing Left 1
FW1NG02R Molded Foam Wing Right 1
L-6U Landing Gear 1
NYLON87 CA Hinge Strip
PLTB009
PLTB011 24" Grey Outer Pushrod 2
PLTB012
PLTB013
WIRES 16 Threaded Link Rod 5
ARF1R02 1/4 Balsa Fin 1
ARF1R03 1/4 Balsa Rudder 1
ARF1A03 Subpack
ARF1F03 9mm Plywood
ARF1F04 1/4 Plywood Firewall 1
ARF1F05 1/4 Ply
ARF1F06 Pushrod Holder
ARF1S04 1/16 Plywood
2
DOWEL030 1/4 x3 1/2 Dowel 4
ARF2A04 Subpack
ARF2W03 3/8 Tapered TE 2
ARF2W04 3/8 Tapered Aileron 2
ARF2A05 Subpack
ARF2W05 Grooved Center TE 2
ARF2W06 TE Support 2
ARF2W08 Servo Rails 2
NYLON20 Non threaded Swivel 2
NYLON21
WBNT110L Aileron Torque Rod Left 1
WBNT110R Aileron Torque Rod Right 1
Congratulations on your purchase of the
HOBBICO STURDY BIRDY II. THE FIRST
REAL SUPER TRAINER. You now own the
BEST FLYING durable trainer available. By
following these instructions as you assemble
the model, you will have a great flying plane.
It will not only teach you how to fly, but will
stick by you while you learn, no matter how
long that may take!
The first thing you should do after reading
this paragraph is check the parts in this kit
against the parts list to make sure everything
is here.
We strongly recommend that you join the
Academy of Model Aeronautics. Being an AMA
member entitles you to liability insurance and
puts you in touch with your local flying
club. It also includes a subscription to MODEL
AVIATION magazine, which has a monthly
listing of the latest news in model aviation.
Insurance is the most important advantage of
the AMA membership. If your model hits
someone or something, you are liable for any
damage it causes.
You can contact the national Academy of
Model Aeronautics, which has more than
2,500 chartered clubs across the country.
Through any one of them, instructor training
programs and insured newcomer training are
available.
Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Web Site:
HTTP:
//WWW.
We also recommend that you join your local
flying club. There you will find people who
can help you learn to fly and teach you the
safe ways of handling your aircraft.
MODELAIRCRAFT.
ORG
ADDITIONAL ITEMS
DESCRIPTION
Here is a description of some of the items you
will need to assemble your STURDY BIRDY II
GLUES
CA (Cyanoacrylate) glues will be used to glue
the wood parts together because they are
strong and very fast curing. Do not use CA
glues for the wing construction because most
CA glues will attack and dissolve the foam
wing. They come in different viscosities. Thin
CA glue can be used when gluing parts with
a good, tight joint. When using thin CA,
3
assemble the parts first and then add the
glue. It will penetrate the joint and cure in a
couple of seconds. Thick and medium CAs
are applied to the parts before they are
assembled since the glue will not cure for
20-30 seconds. This longer curing time gives
you more time to get the parts assembled
accurately before the glue cures. The thicker
consistency also
CA accelerator spray can be very handy
for speeding up the curing process of the
thick CAs.
Epoxy is a two-part adhesive that has to be
mixed before it will cure. We will use epoxy
glue for the wing assembly since it takes a
little longer to cure and does not attack the
foam. Epoxies come in several different types
with many different curing times. You should
buy some epoxy with a 30-minute curing
time for use here.
ENGINE
The STURDY BIRDY II is designed to fly with
a standard .20 size 2-stroke engine. The OS
.20 FP is a great, inexpensive engine that
provides plenty of power. This combination is
ideal for the average beginner. A .25 - .30 size
engine can be used if you would like snappier
performance, especially at higher elevations
where the air is thinner. We recommend that
you do not use an engine larger than a .30
as the additional weight makes the plane
more difficult to fly at low speeds. The engine
mount provided with the STURDY BIRDY II
will fit most .20 - .30 engines.
helps
fill
poor fitting
joints.
FUEL TANK
The STURDY BIRDY III was designed to hold
a 6 oz. square tank. A 4 oz. tank will also
work but will give you shorter flight times.
COVERING
Although not absolutely necessary, the "tail
feathers" and the wing should both be
covered with a "low heat" type iron on
covering. EconoKote^ and Black Baron® Film
are both good coverings to use on your
STURDY BIRDY II. The covering will not
only make your plane look nicer, but it will
also add strength and make it last longer.
CHECK LIST OF ADDITIONAL
ITEMS YOU WILL NEED
D .20 -.30 2-Stroke Engine
D 4 Channel Radio
D 4 Standard Size Servos
D Several 9 X 4 or 9 X 6 Propellers
D 2-1/2" Wheels (2)
D 6 oz. Square Fuel Tank
D Box #64 Rubber Bands
D Thin CA (Cyanoacrylate) Glue loz.
D Thick CA (Cyanoacrylate) Glue loz.
D 30-Minute Epoxy 4oz.
D Roll of Low Heat Iron-On Covering
D Foam Rubber for Cushioning Receiver
D 12" Standard Size Fuel Tubing
D 3/4" Wide Nylon Reinforced Tape
RADIO
The STURDY BIRDY II requires 4 channels to
fly. The radio system you purchase should
have standard size servos so they will fit into
the fuselage channel. Mini or micro servos will
also work but they will require some
modifications to fit properly. Large servos will
not work in the STURDY BIRDY II.
Questions or Problems?
Contact us at:
4
Hobby Services
Attn: Service Department
1610 Interstate Drive
Champaign, IL 61821-1067
(217)
398-8970
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
D Sealing Iron D Razor Saw
D Hobby Knife D Pliers
D Screwdrivers D T-Pins
D Hammer D Wax paper
D Sanding Block or Bar Sander
D Nylon Reinforced Strapping Tape
D Hand or Electric Drill
D Drill Bits (3/32", 1/8". 3/16", 5/32", 7/32")
FIN & RUDDER
CONSTRUCTION
glue has cured, flip the pieces over and add a
little glue to the other side.
D 3. As shown in the above sketch, cut 18
hinges from the supplied 2" x 9" composite
hinge material. You will need five hinges for
the elevator and three for the rudder. Each
aileron gets three hinges.
D 1. The fin is made up of the three pieces
shown above. Locate these three pieces and
lay them out.
D 2. Glue the front part of the fin to the main
part using thin CA. Assemble the two parts
and check to make sure they fit properly. Then
apply a line of CA along the joint. When the
D 4. Lay the rudder in place against the
trailing edge of the fin. Using a hinge as a
template, mark the hinge locations. They are
spaced out so that the outer hinges are
approximately 1" from the ends of the rudder
and the middle hinge is in the center.
D 5. Draw a line down the middle of the
trailing edge of the fin and also down the
middle of the leading edge of the rudder. A
sheet of wood (or anything) 1/8" thick laid
down next to the piece makes it easy to do
this. Transfer the hinge locating marks from
the side to the edges as shown above
5
Note: Before proceeding to hinge the rudder.
read completely through the section on
Installing CA Hinges. Do not use any glue
until after the tail surfaces are covered.
INSTALLING CA HINGES
The hinge material supplied in this kit
consists of a 3-layer lamination of mylar and
polyester. It is specially made for the purpose
of hinging model airplane control surfaces.
Properly installed, this type of hinge provides
the best combination of strength, durability
and ease of installation. We trust even our best
show models to these hinges, but it is
essential to install them correctly. Please
read the following instructions and follow
them carefully to obtain the best results.
These instructions may be used to effectively
install any of the various brands of CA hinges.
The most common mistake made by modelers
when installing this type of hinge is not
applying a sufficient amount of glue to fully
secure the hinge over its entire surface area;
or, the hinge slots are very tight, restricting
the flow of CA to the back of the hinges. This
results in hinges that are only "tack glued"
approximately 1/8" to 1/4" into the hinge
slots. The following technique has been
developed to help ensure thorough and
secure gluing.
few times to provide more clearance (it is
really the back edge of the blade that does
the work here in widening the slot).
CAUTION: Do not drill this hole when
hinging a foam wing, as this hole would allow
too much CA to penetrate and cause damage
to the foam.
B. Drill a 3/32" hole, 1/2" deep. in the
center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel
MultiPro for this task, it will result in a
cleaner hole than if you use a slower speed
power or hand drill. Drilling the hole will twist
some of the wood fibers into the slot, making it
difficult to insert the hinge, so you should
reinsert the knife blade, working it back and
forth a few times to clean out the slot.
A. Cut the hinge slot using a # 11 blade in a
standard #1 knife handle. The slots should
be about 3/4" deep. The CA hinges provided
have a thickness that fits this type of slot
very well. Cut off the corners of the hinge at a
45 degree angle and trial fit the hinge into the
slot. If the hinge does not slide in easily, work
the knife blade back and forth in the slot a
C. Insert the hinges and install the control
surface. Verify the left-right positioning of the
control surface and close up the hinge gap to
1/32" or less. It is best to leave a very slight
hinge gap, rather than closing it up tight, to
help prevent the CA from wicking along the
hinge line. If you have cut your hinge slots too
deep, the hinges may slide in too far. leaving
only a small portion of the hinge in the control
surface. To avoid this, you may insert a small
6
pin through the center of each hinge, before
installing. This pin will keep the hinge
centered while installing the control surface.
Note: When hinging the ailerons, which use
torque rods, use a toothpick to force epoxy
down the hole drilled for the torque rod. In
the case of the rudder, be sure not to let glue
get into the bearing tube.
D 6. Trial fit the fin and rudder together using
the hinges to check for proper alignment.
Do Not glue the hinges in place yet! Sand the
rudder and/or fin so they match each other at
the top.
D 7. Remove the hinges from the
rudder and bevel the leading edge
with your sanding block as shown in
the sketch. This is to allow the
rudder to swing either direction once
EDGE VIEW
the hinges are glued in place.
above. Use a razor saw to cut the excess off at
the leading and trailing edges.
D 9. Check the fit of the fin assembly into
the aluminum channel. It will most likely be
a little loose and we want a nice, tight fit. Add
a strip of the 1/64" plywood doubler to ONE
side of the fin. Glue it to the balsa doubler.
Check the fit again and if it is still a little
loose, add a plywood doubler to the other
side. If necessary, you can sand the plywood
slightly to help the assembly fit. Also, you
can have the covering material continue
down over the doublers if you need the
additional thickness.
D 8. Add the 1/4" x 1/2" balsa doubler to
each side of the fin as shown in the photo
D 10. Position the fin assembly in the channel
with the trailing edge of the fin even with the
end of the channel. Press it in place. Mark the
location of the stabilizer bolt holes on the
bottom of the fin and then remove the fin from
the channel.
7
D 11. Wrap a piece of masking tape around a
7/32" drill bit about 1/2" from the end of
the
bit.
D 12. Drill two holes in the bottom of the fin
assembly to make a space for the stabilizer
bolts. Be careful not to drill any deeper than
the masking tape or you may drill through the
side of the fin.
STABILIZER
& ELEVATOR
CONSTRUCTION
D 14. The stabilizer and elevator are
assembled from these three main pieces.
Locate these and let's get started.
D 15. Glue the front of the stabilizer to the
back using thin CA just as you did for the fin
in step #2.
D 13. Use a sanding block to round the edges
of the fin/rudder assembly as shown above.
Give the sides a quick sanding with some fine
sandpaper to get them ready for the covering.
This completes the basic assembly of the fin
and rudder. The hinges and control horn will
be installed after everything is covered.
D 16. Mark the hinge locations using the
same technique you used in step #4. There are
five hinges used here. The outer hinges are
8
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