Hobbico starfire 40 User Manual

STARFIRE 40

Almost-ready-to-fly Radio Controlled Model Airplane

• Superior quality in an Almost-Ready-to-Fly model

• 80% complete out of the box - No Sanding, Painting, or Finishing required.

• Beautiful sporty appearance.

• Super acrobatic aircraft for experienced pilots

• All wood construction with sheeted wings

• Fuel Tank, Spinner, Wheels, Landing Gear, Engine Mount, and Hardware are included.

WINGSPAN: 55 1/2 in.
LENGTH: 49 3/4 in.
WING AREA: 534sq.in.
WEIGHT: 5 1/2 pounds

ENTIRE CONTENTS © 1991, HOBBICO , INC. V1.0

RADIO: 4 channel (not included)
ENGINE: .40 Performance 2-cycle (not included)

or .61-.91 4-cycle (not included)

ACCESSORIES: Standard field equipment (not included)

IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

Congratulations on your choice of an AWARF kit. BEFORE you begin assembly, carefully look through the box and

thoroughly read the instruction manual. Check the parts list against the items in the box to be sure you have everything that is
on the parts list. Although we have taken great pains to simplify the building process, there are no shortcuts to safety. These
instructions are your guide to safe and successful flying.

Only after you are thoroughly familiar with the construction process should you proceed with assembly. Remember! Under

no circumstances will a dealer accept a kit back for return if assembly has already begun.

If the Starfire is not quite what you expected, return it to your dealer in New and Unused condition. However, we think you

will agree with us that the Starfire kit is one of the finest models of its type and will offer you many hours of enjoyment.

BEFORE ASSEMBLY

CONSTRUCTION HINTS:

1. IMPORTANT! Trial fit each part before gluing.

Be certain that the parts fit properly.

2. Use PlastiZap or a thin type Cyanoacrylate glue for
installing the plastic parts. Do not use too much, as it
may run and spoil the appearance.

3. It is best to use 30 minute (or longer) epoxy for
assembly. This

will

allow time to position

the

parts

before the epoxy cures.

4. Before assembly, place your radio system on charge.

5. There is a metric ruler on page 3 to aid in finding the
correct screw or part sizes.

ADDITIONAL ITEMS

The following items are needed for completing the

Starfire kit:

Medium Fuel Tubing (12") .................................................1

.40 Sized 2-Cycle Engine....................................................1

OR

.61 - .70 Sized 4-Cycle Engine............................................1

4 - Channel Radio System.................................................1

Pacer PlastiZap CA Glue....................................................1

Goldberg #481 Foam Rubber .............................................1

Hobbico (HCAR3950) 30-Minute Epoxy............................1

Silicone Sealer.....................................................................1

Dubro 121 E-Z Connects (Optional)...................................2

Hobbico (HCAR3760)Threadlock...................................... 1

Dubro 340 in line Fuel Filter.............................................1

Propeller (Size depends on the engine) .............................1

Starter

12 V Battery

Glow Driver

Standard field equipment is required for running the engine:
Starter, 12V Battery, Hot Shot Glow Plug Driver and compatible
glow engine fuel.

O.S. 70 Surpass

4-cycle

O.S. .40 SF

2-cycle

Glow Fuel

l See Engine s

Recommendations)

REQUIRED FOR RUNNING THE ENGINE

TOOLS

You will need the following basic tools to assemble the kit. Hobby
knife. Phillips screwdriver (small and medium), needle nose pliers,
drill, drill bits, sanding block, ruler, and string.

A quality brand engine will be needed. We recommend the O.S.

.40 SF 2-Cycle engine or the O.S. 70 Surpass 4-cycle engine.

RADIO SYSTEM

A four-channel radio control system with 4 servos is required for
the Starfire 40.

2.

PARTS LIST

Before assembly, match the parts in the photo on this page with
the parts in the kit. Check off each part as they are located. If
any parts are missing or damaged, consult your hobby dealer.

( ) 1 Fuselage.........................1

( ) 2 Right Wing.....................1

( ) 3 Left Wing.......................1

( ) 4 7mm Dowel Rod ............2

( ) 5 Wing Joiner ...................1

( ) 6 Reinforcing Blocks ........2

( ) 7 Wing Center Cover........1

( ) 8 Hinges............................13

( ) 9 Ailerons..........................2

( ) 10 Aileron Servo Tray........1

( ) 11 Wing Mounting Blocks..3

( )12 Blind Nuts.....................2

( ) 13 4 x 30mm Wing Screws.2

( ) 14 4mm Washers ................2

( ) 15 0-Rings..........................2

( ) 16 Main Gear Struts..........2

( ) 17 Plastic Tree....................1

( ) 18 3 x 15mm S/T Screws....8

( ) 19 Bellcrank.......................1

( ) 20 3 x 8mm Screw ..............1

( ) 21 Front Gear Strut...........!

( ) 22 White Tube ....................2

( ) 23 450mm Rod....................2

( ) 24 Wheel Collars ...............7

( ) 25 3 x 5mm Screws ............7

( ) 26 Wheels ...........................3

( ) 27 Mounting Plates............2

( ) 28 3 x 15mm Screws ..........8

( ) 29 Lockwashers..................8

( ) 30 3mm Nuts......................4

( ) 31 Wing Pad .......................1

( ) 32 Cowl Decal..................... 1

( ) 33 Fuel Tank ......................1

( ) 34 Rubber Cap....................1

( ) 35 Fuel Tank Clunk ...........1

( ) 36 Fuel Line .......................1

( ) 37 Fuel Pipes......................3

( ) 38 3 x 18mm S/T Screw .....1

( ) 39 Large Disc......................1

( ) 40 Small Disc......................1

( ) 41 Neoprene Ring...............1

( ) 42 Clevis Retaining Tube...l

( ) 43 Bent Rods ......................2

( ) 44 Short Rods.....................2

( ) 45 Long Rods......................3

( ) 46 Wooden Push Rods........2

( ) 47 Shrink Tubing ...............4

( ) 48 Push Rod Exits..............3

( ) 49 Horizontal Stabilizer.....!

( ) 50 Vertical Stabilizer .........1

( ) 51 Rudder............................1

( ) 52 Elevators.........................2

( ) 53 Turtle Deck....................1

( ) 54 Spinner...........................1

( ) 55 2 x 20mm Screws ..........6

( ) 56 Right Cowl.....................1

( ) 57 Left Cowl.......................1

( ) 58 Canopy...........................1

( ) 59 Red Striping Decal........ 1

( ) 60 Side Decal......................2

3.

WING ASSEMBLY

3 Trial fit the 7mm dowel rods into the holes and butt them up

against the front spar They should be positioned straight in and
parallel to the wing root Once satisfied with the fit, epoxy them
in place using slow cure epoxy.

1. On both wing halves, make a mark exactly 1 from the wing root
on the leading edge

4. Next, using a sanding block sand the wing roots of both wing
halves to ensure that they are perfectly flat Be careful not to

change the dihedral angle of the root

2 Drill a 7mm hole at each mark Make sure that you drill straight

in at the center of the mark parallel to the wing root

5 Trim each wing half for the aileron servo as shown It's much

easier to do this now than after the wing is assembled

4.

IMPORTANT!

The

following

two

steps

are

critical

in

the

assembly
of this kit. If they are not done correctly, wing failure could result Be
sure to use plenty of slow cure (30 min) epoxy

6

Check

the

wing

joiner

to

find

the

angled sides

Place

the

joiner on

a flat surface and rock until you have identified the two angled

sides

The

angled

face

side

should

point

forward

and

the

angled
narrow side should face down for proper dihedral Using one of
the wing panels trial fit the wing joiner and check for proper
alignment Position

the

joiner so

it

will

be

centered

when

the

two
wing halves are joined together Once satisfied with the fit, glue
the joiner in place using slow cure epoxy Let cure

7 Trial fit the two halves together and line up the leading and

trailing edges Check for a good gap-free fit Sand if needed
Once satisfied, glue the two wing halves together using slow cure
epoxy You can tape the wing halves together to hold them tight
while the glue cures

9 Install the wing center cover using Plastizap CA Glue Wipe

off

any excess glue

immediately

Next on

the

front

of the

cover glue the wing pad on as shown using Plaslizap CA Glue

10 Install the six aileron hinges into the slots at the trailing edge of

the wing using epoxy Only a small amount of glue is needed
here

Use too much and it

will

seep

into

the

hinge

causing

it to
lock up You may wish to apply a small amount of vasiline to the
hinge joint to

pr

otect it against

epoxy

If

any

glue

does

set

up

into

the joint, remove it immediately using a soft cloth and rubbing

alcohol.

8 Line up the reinforcement blocks as shown so that the sides angle

in Remove the wing covering underneath the blocks Next, glue
the blocks to the wing using epoxy

11 Apply epoxy to the contiol rods and in the control rod slots of the

ailerons Next put a small amount of epoxy onto the the hinges

and install both ailerons

5.

12. Check the ailerons for smooth operation. By exercising the
ailerons after the glue is cured, you can loosen any of the stiffness
that might have been created by glue seeping into the hinges.

15. Glue the three wing mounting blocks together using slow cure
epoxy. Center the three blocks together by lining up the holes.
The larger block should be at the bottom.

13. Align the aileron servo tray on the wing and trace around it using
a ball point pen. Remove the covering material that was outlined
underneath the tray.

16. Install the blind nuts to the larger side of the mounting block.

These can easily be pressed in with a pair of pliers.

14. Glue the tray to the wing using slow cure epoxy.

17.

Epoxy

the

mounting block

inside

the

fuselage.

It

is

critical

that

this

joint

is

solid.

Use plenty

of

epoxy.

Let

cure.

6.

18. Thread the wing screws into the blocks so that the heads are 3/8"
above the block. Apply ink or paint to the heads of the screws.
Proceed with the next step immediately before the ink or paint
dries.

21. Place the two 4mm washers onto the 4 x 30mm screws and push
them through the wing from the bottom side. Next, slide the
rubber 0-rings onto the screws.

19. Place the wing onto the fuselage as shown. Put the front in first
by inserting the dowel rods in the holes. It may be necessary to
round the tips of the dowel rods and bevel the holes in order to
allow easier installation. Once in place, center and lower the

back onto the screw heads. This will mark where you need to
drill.

22. Trial fit the wing onto the fuselage. Check for a solid fit then
remove.

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

20. Drill two 3/16" holes 90° from the bottom wing surface using the

paint marks as a guide.

7.

1. Feel along the front edge of the blue stripe until you find the two
slots under the covering, trim out the covering over the slots.

4. Temporarily install the strut and mark the bottom of the fuselage
for the installation of the control rod Mark the hole about 1"
from the firewall and 7/8 from the left bide of the fuselage.

2. Install the two main gear struts into the wing and attach using
the plastic retaining straps and 3 x 10mm self-tapping screws.
You may with to drill eight 1/16" holes to prevent the wood from
splitting when installing the screws.

5. Drill a 1/8" hole angling back at the mark.

Attach the bellcrank onto the front gear strut and secure with a
3 x 8mm screw onto the flat.

6. Epoxy in the white tube so that it only protrudes 1/8" out of the
fuselage Make sure all exposed wood around the tube is covered

with glue in order to seal against fuel.

8.

7. Make a Z-bend on one end of the 450mm control rod. Install the
front strut with the rod and secure with a collar and a 3 x 5mm
screw.

1. Temporarily install the two mounting plates onto the mount so
the engine will angle slightly to the right for 2 degrees. Tighten
the screws only until they seat so that you can still move the
plates.

8. Install the wheels using a wheel collar on each side of the wheel.
Fasten the collars with 3 x 5mm screws.

2. Set the engine on the mounting plates so that the center line of
the engine is in line with the center of the engine mount. Make
sure that the engine has a slight right thrust angle of 1 or 2
degrees and that the front of the drive washer on the engine is
4-5/8" from the firewall Next, squeeze the plates against the
engine and mark the mounting holes on the plates.

Engine Installation

9

3. Remove the plates and drill four 1/8" holes at the marks.
Carefully remove off any burrs with a hobby knife.

4. Mount the engine to the mounting plates using four 3 x 15mm

screws, four lock washers, and four 3mm nuts as shown. Note:

Use thread locking compound on the screws and nuts to
prevent them from loosening under vibration.

7. Install the throttle control rod on the throttle arm of the engine.

5. Epoxy the white tube into the fuselage so that it sticks out I".

8. Slide the throttle control rod into the white tube and attach the
engine to the mount. Use four 3 x 15mm screws and four lock
washers to hold the engine in place. Note: Use thread locking

compound on the screws.

Fuel tank Assembly

6. Make a Z-bend in the 450mm rod as shown

10.

1. Install one of the long and one of the short fuel pipes through the
rubber cap. Center the pipes in the cap and place the two plastic
discs onto each side. The large one should be on the outside. The
flange on the small one should face the rubber cap. Put the 3 x
18mm self-tapping screw in the center hole from the large end
and tighten it only a couple of turns into the small disc.

4. Attach the completed fuel tank cap to the tank. Make sure that
the bent pipe is pointing to the top. Slide the cap on until the lip
on the fuel tank is in the groove of the cap. Then tighten the
screw. Check to make sure the clunk is free to swing at the
bottom of the tank.

5. Glue the neoprene ring to the tank with silicone sealer. Attach
two pieces of fuel tubing (5" long) to each of the pipes.

Attach the fuel line to the short fuel pipe and attach the clunk to
the other end. Adjust the length of the line so that the clunk
reaches nearly to the rear of the tank but not up against it once
installed.

Carefully bend the other fuel pipe so it will just touch the inside
top of the fuel tank

6. Put a bead of silicone sealer on the ring. Proceed with the next
step before the sealer dries.

11.

8. Install the completed tank into the fuselage. Route the fuel
tubing through the hole and push the tank cap through until
seated. Attach the carburetor line (bottom one) to the engine.
Shorten as needed.

Radio Installation

2. Screw the aileron horns onto the aileron arms. Make sure you use
the two horns with the larger holes.

3. Cut five 3/16" pieces of the clevis retaining tubing. You will use

two now and three later.

1. Check the fit of your aileron servo in the aileron servo tray. You
may have to trim away some of the servo tray for a good fit.
Install the grommets onto the servo and mount using the screws
provided with the radio system.

4. Screw two snap clevises halfway up the threads on the shorter
control rods. Next, slide two of the 3/16" clevis retaining tubes
onto the rods.

12.

5. Attach the clevises to the aileron horns and slide on the retaining
tubes. After checking the neutral position of the aileron servo
and ailerons, put a mark on the push rods (scratching with a

hobby knife) where the servo arm holes line up. Be sure the
ailerons are in there neutral position.

8. Connect the aileron servo to the receiver and check the movement
of the ailerons. Make sure that both ailerons are neutral when
the servo is neutral. Adjust the clevises as needed.

6. At each mark, bend the pushrods at a right angle. Next, cut off
the push rods 6mm from the bend.

9. Install the three remaining servos into the tray using the
grommets and screws provided with the radio system. Be sure
that the servos are positioned as shown. You may have to trim
the tray slightly for a perfect fit.

7. Attach the rods to the servo arm using the rod clevis. Install the
clevis from the underside of the servo horn then snap onto the
rod.

10. Install the switch into the tray. You will have to drill the two
mounting holes depending on the switch. For a cleaner look,
install the Dubro #203 Kwik-Switch mount.

13.

11. Bend the three long rods as shown for the elevator and rudder.
Note: the pre-bent rods will be used later in step 13.

14. Next, do the same with the rudder push rod. Make sure that each
rod fits in the groove Now slide the four pieces of shrink tubing
over the ends of the wooden rods and shrink them with a heat
gun or lighter To ensure durability, place a drop or two of
Cyanoacrylate glue on the edges of the shrink tubing

12 Drill a 1/16" hole 1 1/2" from the ends (2 holes 1/16" apart on one

end of one rod) of both wood push rods With a hobby knife,
carefully cut straight grooves from the holes to the ends Only
cut a groove on one side of each end, except for the end of the rod
with two holes. For this end, make a groove on both sides.

15. Trim out the three push rod exits at the tail and insert the
rudder and elevator pushrods into the fuselage from the front. It
may be necessary to bend the rods slightly for a perfect fit.

13. Assemble the elevator pushrod as shown. Place the two elevator
rods into the double grooved end of the rod Next, place one of
the short (pre-bend) rods into the other end.

16. Using PlastiZap, glue the three plastic push rod exits to the
fuselage Check to make sure that the rods will easily move in
and out with no resistance. You may have to bend the rods
slightly for perfect fit

14.

17. Slide the throttle rod through an E-Z Connector and attach to the
servo arm. With the throttle at low position, pull back the rod
and tighten the screw on the connector. Plug the throttle servo
into the receiver and check for proper operation.

1. Trim out the covering and the wood piece at the tail of the plane.

18.

Slide the nose wheel rod through an E-Z Connector and attach to
the servo arm. With the rudder servo at center position, center
the nose wheel straight and tighten the screw on the connector.
Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and check for proper

operation.

2. Temporarily install the wing. Next, place the horizontal
stabilizer in place. Visually inspect the wing and stabilizer to see
if they are parallel. If not, sand the higher side of the stabilizer
mount until the stabilizer is parallel. It is critical for proper

performance that these two surfaces are parallel. Take
extra time to ensure a correct fit.

Tail Assembly

15

3. Next, take a piece of string and attach it with a pin to the top
center of the fuselage. Make sure that the stabilizer is centered
and stretch the string to the corner of the elevator . Adjust the
positioning of the stabilizer so that both corners are the same
length when moving the string from side to side.

4. When the stabilizer is perfect, draw a line with a sharp pencil on
both sides top and bottom (4 lines total).

7. Measure the rear fuselage to find the center. Draw a line along
center.

5. Remove the covering between the lines using a hobby knife.

8. Apply slow cure epoxy to the line and the bottom of the vertical
fin and install the vertical fin. Line up the fin with the rear of
the fuselage and the center line. Temporarily install the turtle
deck as a guide for the fin. Check the fin using a 90° angle to
ensure that it is straight up and down. Let cure.

6. Using slow cure epoxy, glue the stabilizer in place applying glue
to the exposed wood areas. Recheck the alignment using the

string as done earlier in step 3. Wipe off any excess glue using a

soft cloth and rubbing alcohol.

9. Wrap the battery and receiver in foam and install. Place the
battery above the fuel tank and the receiver behind the fuel tank.
Make sure that the radio is hooked up correctly and that an
aileron extension is being used.

16.

10 Trial fit the turtle deck onto the fuselage and check for a good fit

Once satisfied with the fit attach the turtle deck to the fuselage
using Plastizap CA glue Be careful not to use to much glue

13 Glue on the control surfaces with slow cure epoxy and allow to

cure Check the operation of the elevator and the rudder to
ensure smooth performance If they seem stiff, continue to
exercise until they loosen up

11 Trial fit the rudder onto the vertical fin Notice where the bottom

hinge meets the fuselage and mark a spot in the fuselage where
the rudder hinge slot will need to be using a hobby knife

14 Position the control horns on the elevators and mark the holes for

each onto the surface

12 Using slow cure epoxy, glue the seven hinges into the elevator

halves and the rudder Do not use too much glue or you may glue
the hinge joint solid

15 Position the control horn on the rudder and mark the holes onto

this surface

17

16. Drill six 1/16" holes at the marks. Make sure to drill straight in
through to the other side and mount the three horns to the
surfaces with the 2 x 20mm screws. Pass the screws through the
horn, through the surface and finally thread them into the
backplates.

19. Align the control rods over the respective servo horns and make a
mark where they intersect. Make sure that the control surfaces

are in neutral (center position) before marking.

17. Slide one of the retaining tubes onto each rod. Screw on the
plastic snap clevises to the three push rods coming out of the
fuselage. Screw them on half way up the threads.

20. Next, make a 90° bend upwards at the mark and cut off the
excess so that there is only 6mm of rod after the bend.

18. Attach the respective control rods to each horn. Use the middle
hole of the horn. Make sure that both elevator surfaces are the
same.

You

will

have to adjust

the

clevises to equalize. Next,

slide

up the retaining tubes to lock the clevises.

21. Attach the rods to the servos using the rod clevises as shown in
the above picture. You may need to enlarge the holes in the
horns slightly for a good fit. Check to ensure that when right
rudder is given, the nose wheel also turns right. If not, simply
install the E-Z Connector on the other side of the servo arm.

18.

Cowl Installation

3 Position the cowl in place and drill two 2mm holes 1 1/2 apart on

each side and install the 2 5 x 10mm S/T screws to secure the
cowl in place Attach the muffler and pressure line

1 Lightly sand the flanges on the left and right cowl edges This

will allow the glue to adhere better to the plastic Next hold or
tape the right side over the flange of the left side and glue
together along the inside beam with Plastizap CA glue Let cure

Final Assembly

2 Trial fit the cowl over the engine You will have to trim slightly

to allow clearance for the needle valve and muffler

1 Using Plastizap CA glue the canopy onto the fuselage and apply

the red striping decal around the perimeter

19

2. Next, carefully apply the decals to the cowl and the turtle deck.
Use the box lid for a reference.

5. Route the antenna through the hole in the fuselage and through
the hole in the tail. Use the plastic retainer and secure the wire
to the tail.

3. Install the spinner back plate, prop, prop washer, prop nut and

spinner with the 2.5 x 12mm S/T screws.

CENTER OF GRAVITY

4. Drill two 1/16" holes for the antenna. Position the first hole in
the left side of the fuselage and the second hole at the top of the

vertical fin.

Measure back 4-1/4" to 4-1/2" from the leading edge of
the wing next to the fuselage. Balance the plane at this
point. If not, add weight to the nose or the tail until it
balances perfectly. See below.

The center of gravity is a very important aspect of

setting up an airplane properly. It will control a large

part of what type of flying characteristics your plane
will have. If it is nose heavy the airplane will try to
dive, and the elevator will be sluggish to respond to
your control inputs. If the plane is tail heavy, it will be
very sensitive to the elevator and possibly
uncontrollable. The center of gravity should be checked
with the fuel tank empty and with radio equipment
installed. The plane should balance within 4-1/4" to
4-1/2" back from the leading edge at the fuselage. If it
does not balance within this range, add weight to the
nose or tail as you need to obtain the proper balance.

20.

RECOMMENDED SURFACE THROWS

The amount of throw that the control surfaces have is critical if you
want a properly responsive plane. Measure the throws as shown above
They should be:

Each way

3/8"
3/4"

1"

Ailerons

Elevator
Rudder

Total

3/4"

1-1/2"

2"

If not, move the clevis to a different hole or use a different servo horn.

TAKE OFF

Become familiar with controlling the plane on the ground with the

rudder,

in

the air you

will

find

that most

of

the

time you

will

be using

a
combination of elevator and ailerons to turn the plane because they are
more effective in the air On the ground, the rudder is more effective A
transition will need to be made once the plane leaves the ground That
transition, from using the rudder on the ground to using the ailerons
once it leaves the ground, will take a little practice One good rule of
thumb is to always take off directly into the wind (if there is any) This
will

prevent

the

wind

from trying to

blow

the

model

from

side-to-side

and

will

not

take

as

much runway

as

if

you were trying to

take

off

downwind

As you are ready for take-off, simply point the nose into the wind
and slowly advance the throttle up to full At this point the plane will
be going very fast and

will

be very sensitive to

your

rudder

inputs Use
smooth inputs to correct the plane from wandering off of the runway
Once the plane is at take-off speed, slowly pull back on the elevator
stick This will cause the plane to leave the ground At this point,
notice whether the plane tends to turn, climb or dive, and make the
necessary opposite control inputs to keep the plane on a gentle climb in
the desired direction.

FLIGHT

Once the plane has reached a safe altitude, reduce the throttle to

about half power If the airplane is properly set up ( e correct C G.,

trims all centered, engine properly set), the plane should be stable
without any wandering tendencies If the plane does tend to go more in

one direction than another, use your trim levers on your transmitter to
correct for straight flight If the trims will not overcome a turn or a
climbing tendency, land the model immediately and check for improper
setup.

PRE-FLIGHT CHECK

1. Check to make sure all nuts, bolts, and screws are still securely
fastened

2 Check all control surfaces to be sure that they are all properly

attached

3 Check the range of the radio system as the manufacturer

recommends

4 Check that all controls move smoothly and in the proper directions

5. Check the level of charge in the transmitter and receiver batteries.

6. Check that the flying area being used is free of obstacles
7 Check the frequencies currently in use at the field and in your area.

Make sure no one else is on your frequency before turning on your
transmitter

8 Check the level of the fuel tank to be sure it is full.

9. Double check the radio operation.

FLIGHT SAFETY

• (This plane is designed for experienced fliers only.) NOTE If you

are a beginner we suggest that you start off with a trainer aircraft (like
the Hobbico Flightstar 40) and become proficient with it before
attempting to fly the Hobbico Starfire 40

• If you are a novice pilot local area clubs have been formed and are

very willing to help you with any questions you may have Many of the
clubs even have club trainer airplanes that they will actually teach you
to fly with This helps prevent disappointing crashes on your first
flights Addresses of local area clubs can be obtained from your local
area hobby shop and/or by writing to Academy of Model Aviation,
1810 Samuel Morse Drive Reston VA 22090

• Fly in an open field without any obstructions

• Fly the model conservatively until you get to know the flight

characteristics of the plane

• When adjusting the needle valve just prior to flight hold the plane at a
45 nose up attitude with the throttle open Adjust the needle valve for
the top performance as the manufacturer's instructions suggest

LANDING

There is an old saying that states, "You do not have to take
off But you do have land Therefore, be readv to land at all times
during your

flight

The engine may not

stay

running

through

a
complete tank of fuel for one reason or another It is suggested to time
the run of a complete tank before flight That way you know
approximately what to expect and when you need to land before the fuel
runs out

Set up your landing approach downwind at 100-200 feet up and
500-800 feet away depending on the height of the plane and the
strength of the wind Approach into the wind and slowly reduce the
throttle to the closed position Concentrate on the glide path of the
plane taking notice of whether the plane will reach the beginning of the
runway or if it will overshoot the runway completely With the smooth,
deliberate inputs, use your engine power and your elevator to adjust the
glide path so the plane will touch down smoothly on the beginning of
the runway at its safest slowest speed It may still seem very fast and
may use the complete runway to slow down

AFTER -FLIGHT MAINTENANCE

• Check and double check that the transmitter and receiver switches
are switched to the off positions

• Remove all excess fuel from the fuel tank as this fuel can become
jelly-like and cause clogging of the fuel lines as well as clogging the

engine's carburetor valves

• Remove fresh fuel from the surface of the plane immediately as

different brand can cause clouding of the surface

• Wipe off any excess oil that may have collected on the wing and

fuselage Use a light-duty cleanser to help cut

through

the

oil

• Always use after-run oil in the engine to prevent corrosion

• Replace any bent, marred, or chipped props as they may fly apart

at any time when the engine is turning

• Completely check the airplane for damage to the wings, landing

gear, covering and repair as needed before your next flight.

21.

STARTING THE ENGINE

ENGINE MAINTENANCE

Always check the engine mounting bolts, muffler, glow plug, propeller

and spinner, etc , before attempting to start the engine Check for
loose bolts, nuts or screws which may come off when the engine is

running and cause serious damage Always check the area in which
you will be flying or just running the engine Check for possible
hazards, such as loose rags, rocks, tools, etc., lying on the ground which
may get caught in the prop

If you intend on starting the engine by hand flipping the prop, always
use a chicken stick, and be sure to check the position of the prop It is
most comfortable when it is at the 2 o clock position when starting the
compression stroke When you are using an electric 12V starter, try to

position the prop parellel to the wing at the beginning of the
compression stroke

ENGINE BREAK-IN AND STARTING

Most manufacturers recommend that the engine be broken-in on a test
stand We also recommend that this be done according to

manufacturers instructions If a test stand is unavailable the engine

may be broken-in on the airplane Breaking-in the engine allows the

parts to 'seat to each other Proper break-in and maintenance will

help ensure dependable trouble-free operation and longer life of the

engine.

1. Use a filter on the carburetor line

2. Fill the fuel tank When the tank is full, the fuel will come out

the muffler

3. Follow you manufacturer's instructions according to needle valve

settings.

4. Turn the radio system on and open the throttle to full open.
Place your finger over the air intake on the carburetor while
turning the prop counter-clockwise a few times Watch the fuel
line If no fuel is reaching the carburetor, recheck the fuel line
plumbing

5. Reduce the throttle to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle for starting.

6. Using a starting stick (chicken stick) and holding the fuselage
firmly, quickly flip the prop in the counter-clockwise direction

(Do

not

attach

the

glow

plug

clip

in

this

step)

This

will
prevent the engine from being flooded and will make starting
much easier Do not use bare hands/fingers for starting, as the

kick back from a model engine can be strong enough to cause
severe injury.

7. Attach the glow plug clip at this time.

8. With quick flipping movements, flip the prop in the counter-

clockwise direction If the engine does not try to start in the

first few tries, double check your procedure and keep trying

9 Once the engine has started, listen carefully to the sound of the

engine The sound of the engine will tell you how the engine is
running, if you know what to listen for A lower-tone, popping
sound is the sound of a rich running engine As you turn the
needle valve in, the popping sounds should decrease and the

pitch of the engine should rise The optimum needle valve

setting will depend on your engine and current weather
conditions Again check with the manufacturer's
recommendations for engine break-in procedures and valve
settings

10. As a guideline, always run a new engine slightly rich This will
allow the engine extra break-in time and will help ensure future
dependability

11. If you continue to have problems with the performance of
starting of your engine, refer to the engine trouble shooting
guide as shown below

ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

SYMPTOM

The engine does not start.

The propeller is difficult to
rotate.

The engine fires but does not
start.

The engine starts but does
not sound or run well.

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Glow plug battery is making poor contact.

Battery is dead or has a very low voltage.

Bad glow plug (burned out or deteriorated filament).
Improper air/fuel mixture intake.

Engine is flooded with fuel.

Engine may be flooded.

Fuel is not reaching the carburetor.

Improper break-in procedures.
Loose plug or bad plug.

SOLUTION

Check to see if the battery is wired correctly and to see
if the clip is making good contact with the plug.

Replace or recharge the battery or glo-starter and
check to make sure the battery can glow the plug red
hot prior to starting.

Replace the glow plug.

Prime the engine through the carburetor air intake.

Close the needle valve completely and try to start the
engine. It should start and then quickly stop. Reset
the needle valve and try again.

Remove the glow plug and rotate the engine until only
a mist of fuel remains in the cylinder. Replace the
plug and continue.

Check the level of fuel in the tank. Recheck fuel.
Open the needle valve a half turn or so and continue.

Check the break-in procedure and repeat.
Replace the plug and/or tighten the old plug.

22.

TRANSPORTING CHECKLIST

Before leaving for the flying field go though the checklist. This will
help prevent you from forgetting to take things with you.

1. Make sure that the transmitter and receiver batteries are fully
charged.

2 Glow plug clip and fully charged 1 1/2 volt battery (Hot-Shot glo-

starter)
Fuel and fuel pump or fuel bulb.
Extra props and prop wrench
Screw drivers, knife, pliers, and wrenches.
Epoxy and something to mix it on.
Paper Towels
Cleaner to remove residue on the plane (glass cleaner works

great)

9 Extra glow plugs

10 Electric starter or chicken stick.

IMPORTANT SAFETY MEASURES

RECEIVER BATTERY

1 Always make sure the receiver battery pack is fully charged

before flying

2. Wrap the receiver battery in 1/2" soft foam rubber to protect it
from engine vibration and shock A rubber band may be used to
hold the foam around the battery pack It is also suggested to
place the battery pack in a plastic bag to protect it from fuel

3. If using NiCd batteries, follow the instructions that came with

your radio for charging and care of the batteries

4. Before the first flight of the day, check all the wires on the battery
pack and switch for corrosion or broken wires

5. Do a pre-flight check of your radio system each flying session.

RECEIVER

1.

Never

cut

the

receiver

antenna

This

will

affect

the

sensitivity

of

the receiver and result in a loss of range

2. Carefully wrap the receiver in foam and a plastic bag like the
receiver battery

3. Make sure that all the servos are plugged tightly into the correct
receiver terminal

RADIO CHECK

Always check the operation of your radio before you fly to see that the
control surfaces move in the proper directions and that they move the

proper amount If the direction of rotation needs to be reversed to
correct for reversed controls, simply change the side of the servo arm
to which the push rod is attached or flip the proper servo reversing
switch on your transmitter To INCREASE the amount of movement
that

the

surface

will

have, move

the

SNAP CLEVIS CLOSER to

the

surface or move the ROD CLEVIS away from the center of the servo
arm To DECREASE the amount of movement, move the SNAP
CLEVIS AWAY from the surface or move the ROD CLEVIS closer to
the center of the servo arm.

SERVOS

1. Make sure that all the control surfaces move smoothly without
binding When installing the push rods the servo must be able to
move through its complete range of rotation

2 If the servo buzzes when the transmitter stick is moved to its

limit, the servo still has some movement left But the flying

surface being moved is at its limit This can damage the servo
and drain the battery which may cause loss of control of the plane
and crash If this happens, move the control rod in closer to the

center of the servo to reduce the chance of binding Make sure to
double check the servo throws afterwards. Recenter as necessary

23.

HOBBICO AIRPLANE KITS

HCAA2600 - ASAP Extra 300 HCAA2010 - AWARF Avistar 40

HCAA2650 - ASAP P-40E Warhawk HCAA2100 - AWARF Hobbistar 60

HCAA2580 - ASAP Telestar 40

HCAA2520 - ASAP Telestar 25

HCAA2050 - AWARF Flightstar 40

24

Entire contents © 1991 .HOBBICO , Inc.