Hobbico Hobbistar .60 MKIII User guide

WARRANTY

Hobbico guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any
component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Hobbico's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great
Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Hobbico has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new
and unused condition to the place of purchase.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

© Copyright 2003 HCAZ3064 for HCAA2125 V1.1

Specifications:
Wingspan: 71 in [1805mm]
Wing Area: 888 sq in [57 dm

2

]

Weight: 7 - 8 lb [3180 - 3630g]
Wing Loading: 18 - 21 oz/sq ft [55 - 64 g/dm

2

]

Length: 55 in [1400mm]
Radio: 4-channel with 4 servos
Engine: .60 to .65 cu in [10.0 – 10.6cc] two-stroke

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

1610 Interstate Drive
Champaign, IL 61822

[phone], Ext. 2

[e-mail]

See more of our products at www.hobbico.com

TM

2

INTRODUCTION.................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS........................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.........................3

Radio system ........................................................3

Engine ..................................................................3

Tools, Building Supplies, Accessories....................4

Optional Supplies and Tools .................................4

Field Equipment....................................................4

KIT INSPECTION .................................................5

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS......................6

TIGHTEN THE COVERING...................................7

PREPARATIONS ...................................................7

ASSEMBLE THE WING .........................................8

Join the ailerons....................................................8

Join the wing ........................................................9

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE.................................10

Mount the stabilizer and fin................................10

Mount the landing gear .....................................13

Mount the engine ...............................................14

Install the fuel tank .............................................15

Mount the aileron servo......................................15

Hook up the controls..........................................16

Mount the muffler, prop and spinner ..................19

PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING..................20

Balance the model (C.G.) ...................................20

Center the servos ................................................21

Check the control directions ...............................22

Center the control surfaces .................................22

Adjust the throttle ...............................................23

Set the control throws.........................................23

Identify your model ............................................24

Balance Propellers ..............................................24

Checklist.............................................................25

Charge the batteries ............................................25

Gather your tools................................................25

FLIGHT PREPARATION......................................25

Check the controls..............................................25

Range check .......................................................26

Ground check.....................................................26

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .......................26

AMA SAFETY CODE...........................................27

FLYING...............................................................27

Taxiing ..................................................Back Cover

Takeoff ..................................................Back Cover

Flight.....................................................Back Cover

Landing.................................................Back Cover

MAINTENANCE TIPS............................Back Cover

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the
Hobbico Hobbistar .60 MKIII. You've made the right
decision by purchasing a “real” model airplane that
uses a .60-size engine and a 4-channel radio. Once
assembled and set up, there will be no fiddling with a
temperamental engine or constant troubleshooting to
figure out how to get the model to fly. Under the
guidance of a flight instructor, all you'll have to do is
concentrate on learning to fly. And after you've
mastered the Hobbistar, the engine and radio may be
installed in your next model!

IMPORTANT:
The best thing you can do to insure success is to
find a flight instructor who will inspect your

model for airworthiness and provide flying
lessons. It cannot be stated strongly enough that,
if you do not already know how to fly an R/C
airplane, you will probably not be able to fly this
model by yourself. It may appear to be easy, but
over-controlling and disorientation quickly
overcome inexperienced fliers swiftly ending their
first flight. If you haven't yet done so, contact the

local hobby shop and ask them to introduce you
to an instructor or an R/C club representative. If

there is no club or experienced R/C pilot nearby,
it would be worth even a long drive to find one-if
only for just a few flight lessons (then you'll have
an idea of what to expect).

If there is no hobby shop in your area, contact the
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics), the
governing body of model aeronautics. The AMA
can direct you to the closest R/C club whose
membership should have qualified flight
instructors. With the added benefit of insurance
coverage provided by the AMA, most clubs
require AMA membership to fly at their field.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

IntroductionTable of Contents

3

1. Your Hobbistar .60 MKIII should not be
considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like a full-size
airplane. Because of its performance capabilities,
the Hobbistar .60 MKIII, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to
yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as
doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model.
In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly
from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first­class condition, and a correctly sized engine and
components (fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the
building process.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other
components so that the model operates correctly on
the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before
every flight to insure that all equipment is operating
and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be
sure to check clevises or other connectors often and
replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not already an experienced R/C pilot,
you should fly the model only with the help of a
competent, experienced R/C pilot.

These are the items not supplied with the Hobbistar .60
MKIII that must be purchased separately. Where
appropriate, order numbers are provided in parentheses.

RADIO SYSTEM

A 4-channel radio control system with four servos is
required to fly the Hobbistar .60 MKIII. 4 “channels”
means that the radio is capable of operating four
controls. On a trainer model such as the Hobbistar
the controls are the ailerons, elevator, throttle and
rudder. Some 4-channel radio control systems
include only three servos, so a fourth servo may
have to be purchased separately.

ENGINE

A .60 to .65 cu in two-stroke model airplane engine
is required to fly the Hobbistar .60 MKIII. Basically,
there are two types of two-stroke engines; “ball
bearing” and “non ball bearing” engines. In addition
to having a crankshaft supported by two ball
bearings, most ball bearing engines have other
performance features that boost power and RPM
(and price). For the Hobbistar .60 MKIII, an
economical, non ball bearing engine is more than
suitable. Should you decide to go “all-out” and

Items Required

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a
top quality kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model
depends on how you build it; therefore, we
cannot in any way guarantee the performance of
your completed model, and no representations
are expressed or implied as to the performance or
safety of your completed model.

Protect Your Model, Yourself & Others

Follow these Important

Safety Precautions

purchase a more powerful ball bearing engine
anyway, you’ll have to remember to throttle back to
slow the model while learning to fly. A suitable
propeller and spare propellers will also be required
(most two-stroke .60 engines run well with a 12 x 6
or 11 x 7 propeller, but refer to the recommendations
in the instructions that came with the engine).

TOOLS, BUILDING SUPPLIES AND ACCESSORIES

These are the rest of the items required to assemble
the Hobbistar .60 MKIII.

❏6" [150mm] servo extension (HCAM2701 for Futaba

®

)

❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] - HCAQ1000, or

1/2" [13mm] - HCAQ1050)

❏ Medium silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏ #64 rubber bands (1/4 lb [113g] box, HCAQ2020)
❏ Stick-on segmented lead weights (GPMQ4485)
❏Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060)
❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro

™

CA Glue (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ Glue (GPMR6007)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ #1 Phillips screwdriver (HCAR1022)
❏ #2 Phillips screwdriver (HCAR1024)
❏ Pliers
❏ Small metal file
❏ Masking tape
❏ 12mm (or appropriate size) prop wrench or

crescent wrench

❏ Drill and drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm],

3/32" [2.4mm], #19 (or 11/64") [4.4mm]

OPTIONAL SUPPLIES AND TOOLS

These items are not absolutely required, but are
mentioned in the instructions and will help you
assemble the Hobbistar .60 MKIII

❏ Top Flite

®

MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock iron cover (TOPR2175)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Builder's Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ K & S #801 Kevlar thread (for stab alignment,

K+SR4575)

❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700)
❏ Prop Reamer (GPMQ5005)

FIELD EQUIPMENT

When ready to fly, you'll need the equipment to fuel
the plane and start the engine. Perhaps you've already
made arrangements with the R/C club or your flight
instructor to borrow theirs, but eventually you'll want
to get your own. Refer to your hobby dealer for
specific recommendations on what to purchase.
Following is a list of the most important items…

❏ Model engine glow fuel (5%, 10% or 15%

nitromethane content is suitable)

❏ Hand-crank or electric fuel pump system with

fuel lines and fittings for transferring fuel from the
container into the fuel tank in the model.

❏ Glow plug igniter for starting the engine
❏ Battery for glow plug igniter (if not already

attached to igniter)

❏ Electric starter and 12v battery
❏ Field box for carrying starting equipment and tools

4

5

Kit Inspection

1. Fuselage

2. R&L wing halves w/ailerons

3. Stab w/elevator

4. Fin w/rudder

5. Main landing gear wires (2)

6. Nose gear wire

7. Fuel tank w/hardware

8. 1/4" x 1/2" x 10" [6 x 12 x 255mm]
balsa stick (fuel tank, receiver,
battery mounting) (2)

9. Cast aluminum engine mount

10. 2-3/4" [70mm] foam wheels (3)

11. 2-3/4" [70mm] white plastic
spinner w/4 spinner screws

12. 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage
servo tray

13. 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing
servo tray

14. 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing
joiners (3)

15. Hardwood wing dowels (2)

Before starting to build, take an inventory of all the parts to make sure the kit is complete and inspect the
parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality,
or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing
parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.

Product Support:

Telephone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

Parts Photographed

(1) nylon nose steering arm
(1) nylon nose gear mount
(2) 2mm x 9-7/8" [250mm] threaded one-end

wire aileron pushrods

(1) 2mm x 27" [685mm] threaded one-end wire

throttle pushrod

(1) 2mm x 19-3/4" [500mm] wire nose wheel

steering pushrod
(2) nylon aileron torque rod horns
(2) nylon straps (main landing gear)
(5) nylon clevises
(5) nylon pushrod keepers
(2) nylon control horns w/mnt plates
(5) silicone retainers for clevises
(15) precut CA hinges

(4) 4 x 25mm Phillips-head screws (engine

mounting)

(6) 4 x 20mm Phillips-head screws (engine

mount, nose gear bearing)
(10) 4mm lock washer
(10) 4mm flat washer
(4) 4mm nut
(2) 2 x 16mm Phillips-head machine screws

(rudder control horn mnt)
(2) 2 x 20mm Phillips-head machine screws

(elevator control horn mnt)
(4) 3 x 12mm Phillips-head self-tapping screws

(main LG straps)
(4) 5mm wheel collars (main wheels)
(5) 4mm wheel collars (nose wheel)

(10) 3 x 5mm screw (for screw-lock connector,

wheel collars)
(1) 3 x 8mm screw (nose steering collar)
(2) 2mm washer (for pushrod connector)
(2) pushrod connector (screw-lock type)
(2) thumb nuts (for pushrod connectors)
(2) metal engine mount straps
(2) aileron torque rods (factory installed in wing)
(6) 4mm blind nuts (factory installed in firewall)
(1) 13-1/2" [340mm] plastic pushrod tube (throttle)
(1) 11-1/4" [285mm] plastic pushrod tube (for

nose wheel)

(2) 36" [915mm] threaded one-end pushrods

(elevator, rudder)

Parts Not Photographed

2

6

5

10

1

9

8

7

15

14

4

3

2

11

12

13

6

Ordering Replacement Parts

To order replacement parts for the Hobbico Hobbistar .60 MKIII ARF, use the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. Replacement parts are available only as listed. Not all parts are
available separately (an aileron cannot be purchased separately, but is only available with the wing kit).
Replacement parts are not available from Product Support, but can be purchased from hobby shops or mail
order/Internet order firms. Hardware items (screws, nuts, bolts) are also available from these outlets. If you
need assistance locating a dealer to purchase parts, visit www.hobbico.com and click on “Where to Buy.”
If this kit is missing parts, contact Product Support.

Item

Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support
Plans Construction Plans Not available
Hardware Individual hardware items Contact your hobby supplier
Parts listed below Contact your hobby supplier

HCAA3120 Fuselage Set (Fuselage, servo tray,wing dowels(2))
HCAA3121 Wing Set (Right & left wing panels w/ailerons, hinges (8), plywood wing

joiners (3), aileron servo tray)

HCAA3122 Tail Set (Fin & rudder, stab & elevator, hinges (7))
HCAA3123 Landing Gear Set (5mm main gear wires (2), 4mm nose gear wire, 5mm wheel

collars & screws (4), 4mm wheel collars & screws (2))

The Hobbistar .60 MKIII ARF is factory-covered with iron-on heat shrinkable model airplane covering.
Should repairs ever be required, the covering can be patched with Top Flite MonoKote or other similar
model airplane covering that has an iron-on adhesive on the back and shrinks with heat. Most coverings
are packaged in six-foot rolls, but some hobby shops sell covering by the foot. If only a small piece is
needed for a minor patch, perhaps a fellow modeler would give you some.

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm
3/8" = 9.5mm
1/2" = 12.7mm
5/8" = 15.9mm
3/4" = 19mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
15" = 381mm

18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762mm
36" = 914.4mm

Metric Conversions

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130

Metric Scale

Examine the covering on the model. Occasionally,
the covering requires tightening to remove wrinkles
that develop. If necessary, use a model airplane
covering iron with a covering sock to tighten the
covering and remove wrinkles. Hint: Poke three or
four pin holes in the covering between the “ribs” in
the tail surfaces, allowing air to escape to fully
tighten the covering. Note: If you haven't yet
purchased a covering iron (or borrowed one from a
friend), this step may be done later.

There are a few steps that require 30-minute epoxy
that can be done first to speed assembly.

❏ 1. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue together the three

1/8" [3.2mm] plywood wing joiners. Be certain to

apply epoxy to all mating surfaces. (In other words,
apply epoxy to both sides of the joiner in the middle
and to the inside of both the joiner on the top and the
joiner on the bottom.) Hold the joiners together with
clamps. Wipe away excess epoxy before it hardens.

❏ 2. Round the ends of both 1/4" [6.5mm] wing

dowels. Cut the covering from the holes in the

fuselage for the dowels and glue them into position
with 30-minute epoxy. Lightly coat the dowels with
epoxy. (Only the front dowel is shown in the photo,
but there is a dowel at the aft end of the cutout in the
fuselage for the wing.)

❏ 3. Use a hobby knife to bevel the inside edges of

the holes in the main landing gear rail where
indicated by the arrows to accommodate the bend
in the landing gear wire. Seal the exposed wood in
the landing gear rail with a light coat of epoxy.

Preparations

Tighten the Covering

7

❏ 4. Seal the edges of the covering around the

engine compartment with a thin coat of 30-minute
epoxy. Also use 30-minute epoxy to lightly coat the
inside of the fuselage all the way around the
opening for the wing (as indicated by the shaded
area). This will fuelproof the bare wood in case
engine exhaust residue seeps in.

JOIN THE AILERONS

Start with the right wing so yours matches the
photos the first time through.

❏❏1. Use a hobby knife with a #11 blade to neatly

trim the covering from the bottom of the right wing
around the aileron torque rod to allow full, unrestricted
movement of the rod.

❏❏2. Test fit the aileron to the wing with four CA

hinges but do not glue them in yet. If it is difficult to

join the aileron to the wing because the hinge slots
are too tight, remove the hinges. Widen the hinge
slots by inserting a #11 blade and moving it back
and forth a few times.

❏❏3. Remove the aileron from the wing. Drill a

3/32" [2.4mm] hole 1/2" [13mm] deep in the center
of the hinge slots to allow the thin CA used for gluing
in the hinges to fully “wick” all the way in. Cut a small
strip of covering from all the hinge slots in the wing
and aileron. For the best result, use a high-speed tool
such as a Dremel to drill the holes.

Assemble the Wing

8

DRILL A 3/32" HOLE

1/2" DEEP, IN CENTER

OF HINGE SLOT

CUT THE COVERING

AWAY FROM THE SLOT

❏❏4. Tape a small piece of wax paper or a piece of

plastic from a sandwich bag to the wing under the
aileron torque rod. Coat the “arm” portion of the
torque rod and the hole and the slot in the aileron for
the torque rod with 30-minute epoxy. Immediately
proceed to the next step.

❏❏5. Join the aileron to the torque rod and wing

with the hinges. If the hinges don't remain centered,
stick a pin through the hinge to hold it in position.
Be certain there is a small gap between the aileron
and the wing—just enough to slip a piece of paper
through or to see light through. Remove any pins
that were used to center the hinges.

❏❏6. Apply six drops of thin CA to both sides of all

the hinges. Allow a few seconds between drops so
the CA fully soaks into the hinge rather than being

drawn into the hinge gap thus gluing the aileron to
the wing. Note the CA applicator tip (HCAR3780)
on the CA bottle to control and pinpoint the CA that
comes out.

❏❏7. Stack a few paper towels over each other and

cut them into approximately 2" [50mm] squares.
Moisten one of the squares with denatured alcohol
and use it to wipe away excess epoxy that came out
of the aileron.

❏ 8. Return to step 1 and join the left aileron to the

left wing panel the same way.

JOIN THE WING

❏ 1. Test fit the aileron servo in both wing halves to

make sure the servo fits. If necessary, enlarge the cut
outs in the wing to accommodate the servo.

❏ 2. Test fit the wing joiner you glued together earlier

into both wing halves, then test fit the wing halves
with the joiner. There should be no gap in the wing.

9

A

IN

C

H

T

2-3/8" (± 3/8")

Make certain the joiner is installed upright (so the
wing tips are higher than the middle of the wing).
Make adjustments where necessary for a good fit
(sanding the top and bottom of the joiner to even the
edges or remove excess epoxy may be required).
Note: The wing dihedral (or upward angle between
the joining wing halves) is factory set and is
determined by the shape of the wing joiners.
However, some modelers prefer to check the wing
dihedral anyway. To do so, lay one wing half on a flat
surface. As shown in the sketch, the end of the other
wing (not including the wing tip) should be 2-3/8"
above the surface. A variance of approximately 3/8"
is acceptable.

❏ 3. Separate the wing halves and remove the

joiner. Thoroughly coat the end of one wing half and
the inside of the wing where the joiner fits with 30­minute epoxy. Also coat one half of the joiner all the
way around. Install the coated end of the joiner into
the wing half. Proceed immediately to the next step.

❏ 4. Coat the inside and the end of the other wing

with 30-minute epoxy. Also coat the end of the
joiner that is sticking out of the other wing half. Fit
the wings together.

❏ 5. Tightly hold both wing halves together with

several strips of masking tape on both the top and
bottom of the wing. Be certain the leading and

trailing edges of the wing align. As you apply the tape,
wipe away excess epoxy that comes out. Do not
disturb the wing until the epoxy has fully hardened.

MOUNT THE STABILIZER AND FIN

❏ 1. The same as was done for the wing and ailerons,

prepare the stabilizer and elevator and fin and rudder
for hinging (by test fitting the hinges, cutting a strip of
covering from the slots and drilling the holes). Do not
glue in the hinges until instructed to do so.

❏ 2. Cut the covering from the slots in the fuselage

for the stabilizer and fin. Also cut the covering from
the pushrod tubes on the top and left side of the fuse
(where indicated by the arrows in the photo).

❏ 3. Taking accurate measurements, mark the center

of the stab on the trailing edge. Position the stab in
the fuselage. Center the mark on the trailing edge
with the end of the fuse.

Assemble the Fuselage

10

❏ 4. Turn the fuse upside-down. Stick a T-pin

through the bottom of the firewall centered side-to­side. Tie a small loop in one end of a 50" [1300mm]
piece of non-elastic string such as monofilament or
Kevlar line (K+SR4575) and slip it over the T-pin.

❏ 5. Fold a piece of masking tape over the string

near the other end and draw an arrow on it. Slide the
tape along the string and align the arrow with one
end of the stab as shown in the photo. Swing the
string over to the same position on the other end of
the stab. While keeping the stab centered from side­to-side, adjust the stab and slide the tape along the
string until the arrow aligns with both ends of the
stab and the stab is centered as shown by A=A' in
the sketch. Be certain the centerline on the trailing
edge remains centered in the fuselage.

❏ 6. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen such as a Top Flite

®

Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510) to mark the outline of
the fuselage on the top and bottom of the stab.

❏ 7. Remove the stab from the fuse. Use a sharp #11

hobby knife or follow the Expert Tip below to cut the
covering from the stab along the lines. Use care to
cut only into the covering and not into the wood.
Cutting into the balsa will weaken the structure.

Expert

Expert TT

ip:

ip:

How to cut covering from balsa.

To avoid cutting into the balsa, use a soldering iron
instead of a hobby knife to cut the covering. The tip
of the soldering iron doesn't have to be sharp, but a
fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a
rate that will just melt through the covering and not
burn into the wood. The hotter the soldering iron,
the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut.

11

A

A'

A = A'

❏ 8. Peel the covering from the stab. Remove any

ink left on the stab with one of the small paper towel
squares you cut earlier, moistened with denatured
alcohol. Also remove any ink around the slot for the
stab that may be on the fuselage.

❏ 9. Mount the wing to the fuselage with a couple

of #64 rubber bands. Slide the stab back into the
fuselage. Stand eight to ten feet behind the model
and observe the alignment between the stab and
wing. If the stab does not align with the wing, place
a small weight on the “high side” of the stab to bring
it into alignment. If weight is not enough to tilt the
stab to one side, remove the stab from the fuselage.
Carefully sand the slot in the fuselage as necessary
to get the stab to align with the wing.

❏ 10. Thoroughly coat the slot in the fuselage for the

stab and the stab where it contacts the fuselage with

30-minute epoxy. Working quickly, slide the stab
into position. Wipe off any epoxy deposited on the
stab. Use the pin and string to be certain the stab is
in alignment. Use a small clamp to hold the stab in
position until the epoxy hardens.

❏ 11. The same as was done to the stab, trim the

covering from both sides of the fin where it will be
glued into the fuselage. Also trim the covering from
the top of the fuselage just in front of and behind the
slot in the fuse where the fin will go.

❏ 12. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin to the fuse.

Hold the fin in position with masking tape. Before the
epoxy hardens, use a Hobbico®Builder's Triangle
(HCAR0480) to see if the fin is perpendicular to the
stab. If necessary, adjust the tension on the tape to
pull the fin to one side or the other until it is vertical.

❏ 13. Permanently join the elevator to the stab and

the rudder to the fin with the hinges and thin CA.

12

MOUNT THE LANDING GEAR

❏ 1. Mount the main wheels to the main landing

gear wires using a 5mm wheel collar and a 3 x 5mm
Phillips-head screw on both sides of each wheel.
Before mounting the outer wheel collar (that holds
the wheel on), file a flat spot on the wire for the set
screw. This will ensure that the wheel collar remains
secure so the wheels won't fall off! Note: Before
installing the set screws in the wheel collars, add a
small drop of threadlocker to the screw.

❏2. Add a small drop of oil to both sides of the wheels.

❏ 3. Install the main landing gear wires into the

main landing gear rail in the fuselage. Using the
holes in one of the nylon landing gear straps as a
guide, drill 3/32" holes through the landing gear rail
for the mounting screws. Run a 3 x 12mm screw in
and out of each hole a few times, then add a few
drops of thin CA to the holes. Allow the CA to fully
harden, then mount the straps to the fuselage with
four 3 x 12mm screws.

❏ 4. Mount the engine mount to the firewall with

four 4 x 20mm screws and 4mm washers and lock
washers. Be certain to securely tighten the screws
using a #2 Phillips screwdriver.

❏ 5. Mount the nose wheel to the nose gear wire

with a 4mm wheel collar and a 3 x 5mm screw on
both sides of the wheel. The same as the main
wheels, be certain to file a flat spot on the wire for
the outer wheel collar and add a drop of oil to both
sides of the wheel to help it spin freely.

Refer to this photo for the following two steps.

❏ 6. Insert two 4 x 20mm screws and 4mm lock

washers into the holes in the nylon nose gear mount.
Insert two 4mm flat washers onto each screw on the
back of the nose gear mount. Mount the nose gear
mount to the firewall.

❏ 7. Insert the nose gear wire into the nose gear

mount and the bottom hole in the engine mount. If
the nose gear wire will not go in, or if it will not turn
easily once inserted, remove the nose gear wire. Drill­out the nose gear mount and the bottom hole in the
engine mount with a #19 (or 11/64") [4.4mm] drill.
This will align the holes. Install the nose gear wire.

❏ 8. Enlarge the inner hole in the nylon steering arm

with a 5/64" [2mm] (or 3/32" [2.4mm]) drill and cut
the outer “two holes” off. Insert a 4mm wheel collar
into the steering arm, then screw in a 3 x 8mm
Phillips-head screw. Insert a threaded pushrod

13

connector into the hole, then slip on a washer. Add

a small drop of threadlocker to the threads, then
screw on a thumb nut. Tighten the nut, but not so
much as to stop the connecter from rotating in the
hole. IMPORTANT: As the thumb nut cannot be fully
tightened, threadlocker must be used on the threads
to keep it from coming off.

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 9. Temporarily mount the nose gear using the

steering arm and two 4mm wheel collars with 3 x
5mm screws as shown.

❏ 10. Cut the 11-1/4" [285mm] plastic pushrod tube

to a length of 6-1/2" [165mm]. Roughen the outside of
the tube so glue will adhere and insert it through the
hole in the firewall, through the large hole in the
former behind the firewall and through the hole in the
former behind that. Make sure the front of the pushrod
tube is even with the front of the firewall. Glue the
pushrod tube into the firewall and the third former.

❏11. Slide the 2mm x 19-3/4" [500mm] non-threaded

wire pushrod through the connector on the steering
arm and into the pushrod tube in the firewall. If
necessary, bend the front of the pushrod to align with
the connector then cut the pushrod to the correct
length. Temporarily fasten the pushrod to the
connector with a 3 x 5mm screw.

❏ 12. Mount the wing to the fuselage with two #64

rubber bands. Place the model on its landing gear. Set
the engine (or anything heavy enough to hold the front
end down) on the engine mount. View the model from
the side. Raise or lower the nose gear until the model
is level. Using a small drop of thread locking
compound on the screws in the wheel collars, tighten
the screws to securely lock the nose gear into position.

MOUNT THE ENGINE

Refer to this photo to mount the engine.

❏ 1. Place the engine on the engine mount, then

place the metal mounting plates on both sides of the
engine. Install four 4 x 25mm screws with 4mm lock
washers and 4mm flat washers into the holes in the
plate and the engine mount. One at a time, install a
4mm nut into the recesses in the bottom of the
engine mount and thread them onto the screws, but
do not fully tighten the screws.

❏ 2. If necessary, enlarge the hole in the back plate

of the spinner, then place it on the engine.

❏ 3. Center the engine on the mount, then use a #2

Phillips screwdriver to securely tighten the engine
mounting screws.

14

❏ 4. Test fit the muffler to the engine. If necessary,

use a Dremel tool with a drum sander or a hobby
knife to trim the fuselage to accommodate the
muffler. (If using a Dremel, stuff the engine exhaust
and the opening in the carburetor with a piece of a
paper towel to keep dust from entering.) Coat the
exposed wood with epoxy or medium CA.

INSTALL THE FUEL TANK

Refer to the photo and the sketch while

installing the fuel tank.

❏ 1. Pull the stopper out of the fuel tank and shake

out the contents. Note that there are three holes in
the back of the stopper, but two holes in the front.
The fuel system on this model requires only two
lines (a fuel pickup line and the pressure line), so the
third hole in the stopper will not be used.

❏ 2. Insert the long aluminum tube into the metal

front plate and push it through the hole in the right

side of the stopper until approximately 1/2" [13mm]
of the tube protrudes from the front. Insert the short
aluminum tube through the other hole.

❏ 3. Tighten the screw just until the metal back plate

contacts the back of the stopper. Bend the long
aluminum tube upward as shown in the photo so it
will be near the top of the tank when the assembly
is installed in the tank.

❏ 4. Fit the fuel line to the short aluminum tube. Cut

the fuel line to the correct length so that when the
fuel line weight (“clunk”) is installed, it will be near,
but not contacting the back of the tank. Otherwise,
the line may become stuck above the fuel level
discontinuing fuel flow.

❏5. Note that the tube in the right side of the tank is the

pressure line that will be connected to the muffler and
the tube in the left side of the tank is the fuel tube which
will be connected to the carburetor. Install the stopper
and fuel line assembly into the tank. Make certain the
clunk is not contacting the back of the tank, then tighten
the screw to expand the stopper, thus sealing the tank –
approximately five or six full turns should be adequate.

❏ 6. Install the fuel tank into the fuselage with the

neck of the tank through the hole in the firewall. Cut
3-1/8" [80mm] from one of the 1/4" x 1/2" x 10"
[6 x 12 x 255mm] balsa sticks. Trim the 3-1/8"
[80mm] piece as necessary to fit between the back
of the tank and the former to secure the fuel tank.

MOUNT THE AILERON SERVO

❏ 1. Cut a small hole in the bottom of the wing for

the servo wire. Cut the covering from the wing for
the 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood aileron servo tray.

15

Aluminum

Tubes

Pressure Line

(to muffler)

Fuel Pickup Line

(to carburetor)

Firewall

Silicone

Fuel Line

"Clunk"

Refer to this photo while mounting the aileron servo.

❏ 2. Use epoxy to glue the aileron servo tray to

the wing.

❏ 3. Drill 1/16" holes through the servo tray for

mounting the servo. Run the servo screws in and out
of the holes a few times to make some threads in the
wood. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes and
allow to fully harden. Mount the servo in the wing
using the screws that came with the servo.

❏ 4. Make a two-arm servo arm from a four-arm

servo arm by cutting two of the arms off. Mount the
servo arm to the servo.

❏ 5. Screw a nylon clevis twenty-five full turns onto

a 2mm x 9-7/8" [250mm] pushrod. Make another
pushrod the same way. Screw the nylon torque rod
horns twelve full turns onto the aileron torque rods.

❏ 6. Connect one of the clevises on the pushrod to

one of the torque rod horns. Make a 90-degree bend
in the pushrod so that when connected to the servo
arm, the aileron will be centered. Fit the pushrod in
the second from the outer hole in the servo arm,
then secure it with a nylon pushrod keeper. Cut the
pushrod 1/16" [2mm] from the keeper as shown in
the sketch. Note: It may be necessary to enlarge the
holes in the servo arm to fit the pushrod. If so, use a
hobby knife with a #11 blade to carefully enlarge
the holes from both sides of the arm.

❏ 7. Connect the other pushrod to the servo arm and

the torque rod the same way.

❏ 8. Center the servo arm. Adjust the length of the

pushrods by turning the clevises in or out until both
ailerons are centered.

HOOK UP THE CONTROLS

Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

❏ 1. Make two one-arm servo arms from the arms

that came with the servos. Also make one two-arm
servo arm.

❏ 2. Install the arms on the servos, then test fit the

servos in the 1/8" [3.2mm] plywood fuselage servo
tray as shown. If necessary, enlarge the openings in
the tray to accommodate your servos.

❏ 3. Drill 1/16" holes through the servo tray for

mounting the servos. Run the servo screws in and
out of the holes a few times to make some threads in
the wood. Add a few drops of thin CA to the holes
to harden the threads. After the CA has fully
hardened, mount the servos in the tray.

❏ 4. Refer to the photo at step 6. Use epoxy to

securely glue the servo tray in the fuselage. Cut the
elevator and rudder pushrod tubes so they “end”
approximately 1/8" [3mm] ahead of the former on
the aft end of the servo tray.

e

16

Keeper

Keeper

Servo

Arm

Pushrod Wir

❏ 5. Screw a clevis twenty-five full turns onto a

2-56 x 36" [915mm] pushrod. Connect the clevis to
the second-from-the-outer hole of a control horn.
Make another pushrod assembly the same way.

❏ 6. Slide the pushrods into the pushrod tubes in the

fuselage. Position the control horn on the rudder as
shown in the photo and sketch. Use the control horn
as a guide to drill two 5/64" [2mm] (or 3/32"
[2.4mm]) holes through the rudder for the mounting
screws. Mount the control horn to the rudder with
two 2 x 16mm Phillips-head screws and the plastic
mounting plate.

❏ 7. Mount the elevator control horn to the elevator

with two 2 x 20mm Phillips-head screws.

❏ 8. Carefully enlarge the holes in the elevator and

rudder servo arms with a hobby knife and a #11 blade
or a 5/64" [2mm] drill.

Refer to this photo while connecting the

pushrods to the servos.

❏ 9. Make a 90-degree bend in the elevator pushrod

so the elevator will be centered when the pushrod is
connected to the servo arm. This is most easily done
by disconnecting the pushrod from the elevator,
rotating the pushrod 90-degrees, then making the
bend to the side. The clevis on the back of the
pushrod will now have to be turned 90-degrees the
other way. Take the servo arm off the elevator servos
and fit the pushrod in the third hole out. Install the
pushrod keeper, then cut the wire so 1/16" [2mm]
protrudes. Reinstall the servo arm and clevis.

❏ 10. Connect the rudder and nose wheel pushrod

the same way. A few bends will have to be made in
the nose wheel pushrod to align it with the servo arm.

❏ 11. Use the remaining 13-1/2" [340mm] plastic

pushrod tube and the 2mm x 27" [685mm] threaded

17

The Holes in the

Control Horn

Align with the

Pivot Point

Pivot
Point

Mounting

Plate

Control

Horn

one-end wire pushrod to hook up the throttle. A
nylon clevis is used on the aft end of the pushrod to
connect it to the servo arm and a threaded pushrod
connector is used on the front of the pushrod to
connect it to the carburetor arm. Bend the pushrod
as necessary to align it with the threaded pushrod
connector and be certain to use threadlocker on the
thumb nut. Adjust the pushrod so the carburetor is
half-open when the throttle servo arm is centered.

❏12. Wrap the receiver and battery pack in 1/4" [6mm]

(or 1/2" [13mm]) R/C foam rubber. Hold the foam
rubber in place with tape or rubber bands. Connect a
servo extension cord to the aileron plug in the receiver
(numbered “1” on most receivers) and connect the
on/off switch to the receiver as well. Connect the battery
to the switch.

❏ 13. Connect the throttle, elevator and rudder servos

to the receiver. Place the receiver and battery in the
fuselage, then glue pieces of the 1/4" x 1/2" [6 x 13mm]
balsa stick to the fuselage sides across the receiver and
battery to securely hold them down. Make certain
nothing interferes with the movement of the throttle or
nose wheel steering pushrods. Cut the covering from

the square hole in the left side of the fuselage for the
on/off switch. Drill two 3/32" [2.4mm] holes for the
switch mounting screws and mount the switch.

❏ 14. Glue leftover pieces of pushrod tubing inside

the fuselage to guide the receiver antenna away
from the servos and pushrods. Route the antenna
through the tubes. Make a “strain relief” from a cut
off servo arm and route the antenna through two of
the holes. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the
fuselage side for routing the antenna. Route the
antenna through the hole in the fuselage.

❏ 15. Make a “hook” for the antenna from another

cut off servo arm and connect it to the antenna. Use
needle nose pliers to make a loop on the end of a pin
or a small piece of wire. Stick the wire into the top of
the fin and connect it to a small rubber band which
is, in turn, connected to the hook on the antenna.

18

MOUNT THE MUFFLER, PROP AND FUEL LINES

Refer to this photo while mounting the muffler

and installing the fuel lines.

❏ 1. Mount the muffler to the engine. Note that on

some engines the exhaust outlet may be rotated so
the engine exhaust can be directed away from the
model. Rotate the outlet if necessary.

❏ 2. Using medium silicone fuel tubing, connect the

vent/pressure tube coming from the fuel tank to the
muffler and connect the pickup tube coming from
the fuel tank to the carburetor. If using the O.S.

®

MAX .65 LA or another engine with a remote needle
valve, make the fuel line a little extra long so it will
be easier to handle the line for filling the fuel tank
(as the tank is filled through this line).

❏ 3. Fit the back-plate of the spinner and a suitable

propeller to the engine. If the hole in the back-plate
and prop are too small, use a prop reamer or the
correct-size drill to enlarge the holes (a 5/16" drill is
suitable for engines that have a 5/16"-24 crank shaft
such as the O.S. MAX .65 LA). A prop reamer is best
as it self-centers as it enlarges the hole.

❏ 4. Install the prop washer and prop nut. Tighten

the prop nut “finger-tight,” then use the correct-size
wrench (12mm for most engines) to tighten the prop
nut by turning it 1/2 turn, plus another 1/8 turn. This
should be adequate tightness.

❏ 5. Fit the spinner cone over the propeller onto the

spinner back plate, then secure with the four screws
that came with the spinner.

19

+ 1/8 Turn

1/2 Turn

BALANCE THE MODEL (C.G.)

At this time the model must be in “ready-to-fly”
condition with all components installed including
the complete radio system, landing gear, engine,
prop and spinner. The model is to be balanced with
the fuel tank empty.

❏ 1. If using a Great Planes

®

C.G. Machine™to
balance the model, set the rulers to 3" [76mm]. If
you do not have a Great Planes C.G. Machine, use
a felt-tip pen or 1/16" to 1/8" [1.5 to 3mm] tape to
accurately mark the C.G. 3" [76mm] from the
leading edge on the bottom of the wing.

❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuselage with at least four

#64 rubber bands. If using a C.G. Machine, place the
model on the machine. If not using a C.G. Machine, use
the tip of your middle fingers on both hands to lift the
model by the wing on both sides of the fuselage at the
balance point you marked on the bottom of the wing.

❏ 3. If the fuselage is level when lifting the model the

C.G. is correct. If the nose drops the model is nose­heavy and will require weight on the tail to balance.

This is where the model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting
the C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm]
back to change the flying characteristics. Moving the
C.G. forward will increase stability, but will decrease
the model's aerobatic capabilities by decreasing
maneuverability. Moving the C.G. aft will have the
opposite effect. In any case, as long as the model is
balanced within the recommended range it will not
display any bad tendencies. Do not at any time
balance the model outside the recommended range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (center of
gravity, also referred to as the balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies and
may determine whether or not the first flight will be
successful. If the plane is nose heavy it could be
difficult to takeoff and land and lose some of its self­recovery capabilities. If the plane is tail heavy the
controls may be too sensitive, making the model
overreact to control inputs. If you value this model
and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT
OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE. A
model that is not properly balanced will be unstable
and possibly unflyable.

Prepare the Model for Flying

20

If however, the tail drops, the model is tail heavy and
the model will require weight on the nose to balance.
Determine how much weight will be required by
temporarily placing varying amounts of Great Planes
“stick-on” lead weight (GPMQ4485) over the nose or
tail until the correct amount is determined. Our
prototypes required about 2-1/2 oz. [70g] of lead on
the tail to balance so it is likely that your model will
require some amount of tail weight as well. Don't be
alarmed if your model requires more or less tail
weight than ours did. There are several factors that
can determine the amount of weight required such as
the exact position and weight of the engine, density
of wood the model was constructed from, etc.

❏4. Attach weight to the model where required. If nose

weight is required it should be adhered to the firewall or

the inside of one of the fuselage sides in front of the
firewall. Due to the likelihood of fuel coming into
contact with the double-sided foam tape that holds the
lead in place, the best way to secure nose weight is to
scrape off the foam tape and permanently glue the lead
into place with epoxy. If tail weight is required, do not
simply adhere the lead to the covering. Instead, use a
pin to poke several holes in the covering over the left
side of the fuselage (opposite the engine exhaust) under
the stabilizer. Add several drops of thin CA to the area
to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood. Now the
lead may be stuck to the fuselage. Be certain any weight
stuck to the tail does not interfere with the pushrods.

Note: An optional way to add nose weight, if required,
is to use a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for 1 oz.
[29g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for 2 oz. [57g] weight).
Spinner weights are used in place of the prop washer.

❏ 5. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add

any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has
been added.

CENTER THE SERVOS

❏ 1. Set the wing upside-down on a small cardboard

box or a stand and place it next to the fuselage.
Connect the aileron servo wire from the wing to the
servo extension coming from the receiver.

❏ 2. Take the servo arms off all the servos.
❏ 3. Center all the trim levers on the transmitter.

Turn on the transmitter, then the receiver. (The idea
is to never have the receiver on by itself. When
turning off the system, turn off the receiver first, then
the transmitter.) This will “center” the servos.
Reinstall the servo arms on all the servos followed
by the screws that hold on the arms.

21

CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS

Move the control sticks on the transmitter as shown
to be certain the controls on the airplane respond in
the correct direction. If any of the controls move the
wrong way, use the servo reversing switches on the
transmitter to make the controls respond correctly. If
necessary, refer to the instructions in the instruction
manual that came with your radio to identify and
operate the reversing switches.

CENTER THE CONTROL SURFACES

Even though the trim levers on the transmitter may
be used to center the control surfaces, you should
start out with the trims centered.

Do the elevator first.

❏ 1. With the transmitter and receiver on, view the

elevator and stab from the end. If the elevator is not
centered, disconnect the clevis from the control
horn on the elevator. Holding the end of the pushrod
with pliers, screw or unscrew the clevis as necessary
until the elevator will be centered when
reconnected to the pushrod. Note: Be sure not to
unscrew the clevis too far. It must remain securely
fastened to the end of the pushrod.

❏2. Center the rudder and both ailerons the same way.
❏ 3. Now that the rudder is centered, center the

nose wheel by adjusting the pushrod in the threaded
connector on the steering arm. Roll the fuselage
along a flat surface (such as your garage, basement
or kitchen floor) to make certain it rolls straight. This
should be done with the transmitter and receiver on.
Make adjustments if necessary. Add a small drop of
threadlocker to the screw and securely tighten to
lock the pushrod into position.

Note that pulling the elevator stick back moves
the elevator up (which, in flight, pushes the tail
down, thus raising the nose of the plane to climb).
The best way to keep this in mind is to think in
terms of a pilot in an actual airplane. He pulls the
control stick back to raise the nose of the plane.

p

22

Pull Stick Back (Down)

Move Stick Right

Left Aileron Goes Down

Move Stick Right

Rudder (and Nosewheel)

Elevator Moves Up

Right Aileron Goes U

Move Right

Stabilizer

Elevator

Elevator NOT Centered With Stab

Elevator Centered With Stab

❏ 4. Install a silicone retainer on all the clevises

(elevator, rudder, ailerons, throttle). If you've
misplaced the retainers that came with the model,
use 1/4" [6mm] pieces cut from leftover fuel tubing.

ADJUST THE THROTTLE

The throttle is to be set up so that, when the throttle
stick is all the way down and the throttle trim lever
is all the way up, the carburetor will be slightly open
(so the engine will idle at a low RPM). When the
engine is to be shut off, the trim lever is moved
down to close the carburetor the rest of the way.

❏ 1. With the transmitter and receiver on, move

the throttle trim lever and the throttle stick all the
way down.

❏ 2. Observe the opening in the carburetor. If the

carburetor is fully closed, proceed to step 3. If the

carburetor is not fully closed, adjust the pushrod at
the connector on the carburetor arm or at the clevis
on the servo arm until the carburetor is closed.

❏ 3. Move the throttle trim lever all the way up, but

leave the throttle stick all the way down. Now the
carburetor should be partially open (about 1/32" to
1/16" [1 to 1.5mm]).

❏ 4. Move the throttle stick all the way up. The

carburetor should be fully open. If the carb is not fully
open, the pushrod travel may have to be increased.
This is done by moving the clevis further out on the
servo arm (or by moving the pushrod connector
closer in on the carburetor arm). Adjust the pushrod
as necessary to achieve the correct setup.

SET THE CONTROL THROWS

The control throws are a measure of how far the
flight controls (elevator, ailerons, rudder) move up
and down (or from side to side). If the controls move
too much, the plane will respond too quickly and be
difficult to control. If the controls do not move
enough, there will not be enough control to fly or
land the model. Due to the great effect the control
throws have on the way a model flies, the control
throws must be set according to the measurements
provided in this manual.

23

Trim Lever Up

Throttle

Stick Down

Trim Lever Down

Throttle

Stick Down

Carburetor Fully Closed

Carburetor Partially Open

Carburetor Fully Open

Start with the elevator…

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Holding a

ruler up to the trailing edge of the elevator, move the
elevator all the way up using the control stick on the
transmitter. Measure the distance the elevator moves up.
Also move the elevator down and measure the distance.
As shown in the chart that follows, the elevator should
move up 1/2" [13mm] and down 1/2" [13mm]. If the
elevator moves up or down more than 1/2" [13mm], the
control throw must be decreased by connecting the
pushrod to a hole further out on the elevator control
horn, or by connecting the pushrod to a hole further in
on the elevator servo arm (as shown in the sketches
below). If the elevator moves up and down less than
1/2" [13mm], the control throw must be increased by
relocating the pushrods the opposite as described.

To get more control surface movement, move the
pushrod farther out on the servo arm. Moving the
pushrod farther inward yields less control surface throw.

To get more control surface movement, move the
pushrod farther in on the control horn. Moving the
pushrod farther out yields less control surface throw.

❏ 2. Measure and if necessary, adjust the aileron

and rudder control throws the same way.

IDENTIFY YOUR MODEL

Whether you fly at an R/C club or somewhere on your
own, you should have your name, telephone number
and address in or on your model so it can be identified
and returned in case it lands somewhere away from
the flying site. Fill out the I.D. tag found at the end of
the manual and place it on or inside the model.

BALANCE PROPELLERS

To inexperienced modelers balancing propellers may
seem unnecessary. Balancing propellers could be
equated to changing the oil in your car every 3000
miles. If not done regularly, the car keeps running, but
over time poor maintenance will take its toll. Similarly,
the engine will run and the plane will fly even if the
propeller is not balanced, but over time, not only may
an unbalanced propeller cause engine mounting screws
and bolts to loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but
vibration may also damage the radio receiver and
battery. Vibration can also cause fuel to foam, which
will, in turn, cause the engine to run hot or quit.

Control Throws

Elevator: 1/2" [13mm] up 1/2" [13mm] down
Ailerons: 3/8" [10mm] up 3/8" [10mm] down
Rudder: 1" [25mm] right 1" [25mm] left

24

More

Throw

More

Throw

More

Throw

Moving the pushrod inward on the

control horn results in more throw.

More

Movement

Less

Movement

Moving the pushrod outward on the servo

arm results in more pushrod movement.

If you do not yet have a propeller balancer, ask your
flight instructor or another club member if they will
help you balance your propellers. We use a Top Flite
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™(TOPQ5700) in
the workshop and keep a Great Planes Fingertip
Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

If you haven't already done so, refer to the
instruction manual that came with the radio and
charge the batteries in the plane and in the
transmitter overnight the night before you go flying.

GATHER YOUR TOOLS

In addition to the engine starting equipment
mentioned near the beginning of the manual, you
should start a collection of tools that may be required
for adjustments and maintenance at the flying field.
Following is a list of the most suggested items…

Tools:

❏ #1 Phillips screwdriver
❏ #2 Phillips screwdriver
❏ 5/16" (or 8mm) socket wrench (for glow plug)
❏ 1.5mm hex wrench (for wheel collars)
❏ 12mm wrench or crescent wrench (for propeller nut)
❏ Pliers
❏ Hobby knife

Spare parts:

❏ Suitable propellers
❏ Glow plug
❏ #64 rubber bands (stored in container with talcum

powder or kitty litter)

Flight preparation is to be done at the flying field.

Be certain your flight instructor performs these
following checks with you.

CHECK THE CONTROLS

1. Get the frequency clip from the frequency control
board at your flying site.

2. Mount the wing to the fuselage with #64 rubber
bands. Twelve to fourteen rubber bands are
suggested. Be certain the final two are “crisscrossed,”
thus ensuring that the others remain secure.

IMPORTANT:Your radio control system transmits a
signal on a certain frequency. Be certain you know
what the frequency is. This is expressed as a two­digit number (42, 56, etc.) and can be found on the
container the radio system came in and is also
located on the transmitter and receiver. There are
many different frequencies, but there is still a
chance that someone else at the flying field may be
on the same frequency as you. If you turn on your
transmitter while that person is flying, a crash will
result. NEVER turn on your transmitter until you
have permission from your instructor and until you
have possession of the frequency clip used for
frequency control at the flying site.

Flight Preparation

CHECKLIST

Now it's time to do a final check before taking the
model to the field. Take the time to do these
checks to make certain your model is ready to fly.

❏ 1. Make certain the screws on all the wheel

collars that hold the wheels on are secure.
Threadlocker is recommended on the screws.

❏ 2. Check to see that the screws that hold the

servo arms to the servos are present and secure.

❏ 3. Be certain the silicone retainers on all the

nylon clevises are in position.

❏ 4. Make certain the throttle, elevator, rudder

and ailerons respond in the correct direction.

❏ 5. Make certain the propeller and propeller

spinner are secure.

❏6. Balance the model according to the instructions.
❏7. Fill-out and place the I.D. card inside the model.
❏ 8. Balance the propeller and spare propellers.

25

3. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. One at a
time, operate each control on the airplane using the
transmitter. Make certain each control is responding
correctly. This must be done before every flight.
There are several types of malfunctions that can be
discovered by performing this elementary task, thus
saving your model!

RANGE CHECK THE RADIO

A range check must be performed before the first
flight of a new model. It is not necessary to do a
range check before every flight (but is not a bad idea
to perform a range check before the first flight of
each day). A range check is the final opportunity to
reveal any radio malfunctions and to be certain the
system has adequate operational range.

1. BE CERTAIN you have the frequency clip.

2. Turn on the transmitter and receiver. Leave the
transmitter antenna all the way down. Walk away from
the model while simultaneously operating the controls.
Have an assistant stand by the model and tell you what
the controls are doing to confirm that they operate
correctly. You should be able to walk approximately
100 feet from the model and still have control without
any “glitching” or inadvertent servo operation.

3. If everything operates correctly, return to the model
and start the engine. Perform the range check with
your assistant holding the plane with the engine
running at various speeds. If the servos chatter or
move inadvertently, there may be a problem. Do not
fly the plane! With the assistance of your instructor,
look for loose servo connections or binding pushrods.
Also be certain you are the only one on your
frequency and that the battery has been fully charged.

GROUND CHECK

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer's
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions
smoothly and rapidly to full power and maintains full
power—indefinitely. After you run the engine on the
model, inspect the model closely to make sure all
screws remained tight, the hinges are secure, the prop
is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high
heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do
not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember
that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly
carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine
in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.

Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or
sand; the propeller may throw such material in your
face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as
you start and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose
objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall
out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into
the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer's
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any
other body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw
anything into the propeller of a running engine.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may
result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Engine Safety Precautions

26

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport
without notifying the airport operator. I will give
right of way to and avoid flying in the proximity of
full scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer shall
be used to supervise flying to avoid having models
fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety
rules for the flying site I use and I will not willfully
and deliberately fly my models in a careless,
reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified
with my name and address or AMA number, on or in
the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio
equipment ground check before the first flight of a
new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from
the pit or spectator areas and I will not thereafter fly over
pit or spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission...

End of AMA Safety Code

These flying instructions are not an endorsement for
learning to fly on your own, but are printed so you
can know what to expect and what to concentrate on
while learning under the tutelage of your instructor.
Further, these flight instructions may be referenced
once you finally do begin flying on your own.

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual
sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may
indicate control surface flutter. Flutter occurs when a
control surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a
flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates
up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme
cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can actually
cause the control surface to detach or the flying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed
by an impending crash. The best thing to do when
flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely
possible. Identify which surface fluttered (so the
problem may be resolved) by checking all the servo
grommets for deterioration or signs of vibration.
Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure and free
of play. If it fluttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the
problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter
are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns
solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire
pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play
in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of
the most prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an over­powered model at excessive speeds.

IMPORTANT: If you do insist on flying on your own,
you must be aware of your proximity to R/C club
sites. If there is an R/C site within six miles of where
you are flying and if you are operating your model
on the same frequency as somebody else, there is a
strong possibility that one or both models will crash
due to radio interference. There is great potential for
an out-of-control model to cause property damage
and/or severe personal injury. We strongly urge you
to fly at a R/C club site where frequency control is
in effect so you can be confident you will be the
only one flying on your channel.

FlyingAMA Safety Code (excerpt)

27

TAXIING

Remember, it is assumed that your instructor is
operating the model for you.

Before the model is ready for takeoff, it must first be set
up to roll straight down the runway. With the engine
running at a low idle, place the plane on the runway
and, if your flying field permits, stand behind the model.
Advance the throttle just enough to allow the model to
roll. If the model does not roll straight down the runway,
shut the engine off and adjust the nose gear pushrod as
necessary. Do not use the rudder trim to correct the nose
wheel because this will also affect the rudder. Note:
Crosswinds may affect the direction the model rolls, so
this test should be done in calm conditions, or with the
model facing directly into the wind.

TAKEOFF

If possible, takeoff directly into the wind. If you are
experienced, taking off in a crosswind is permissible (and
sometimes necessary—depending upon the prevailing
wind conditions and runway heading). Taking off into the
wind will help the model roll on a straight path and also
reduces ground speed for takeoff. Taxi the model onto the
runway or have an assistant carry it out and set it down
pointing into the wind down the runway. When ready,
gradually advance the throttle while simultaneously using
the left stick (rudder/nose wheel) to steer the model. Gain
as much speed as the runway and flying site will practically
allow before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model
into the air. Be ready to make immediate corrections with
the ailerons to keep the wings level and be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle
climb to a safe altitude before making the first turn (away
from yourself). Do not “yank” back the elevator stick
forcing the plane into too steep of a climb which could
cause the model to quit flying and stall.

FLIGHT

Once airborne, maintain a steady climb and make the
initial turn away from the runway. When at a comfortable,
safe altitude throttle back to slow the model, thus giving
you time to think and react. The Hobbistar .60 MKIII
should fly well at half or even slightly less than half-throttle.
Adjust the trims so the plane flies straight and level at your
“cruise” throttle setting. After flying around for a while and
while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel, practice
slow flight and execute practice landing approaches by
reducing the throttle further to see how the model handles
when coming in to land. Add power to see how the model
climbs as well. Continue to fly around while learning how
the model responds. Mind your fuel level, but use this first
flight to become familiar with the model before landing.

LANDING

When ready to land, pull back the throttle stick fully
while flying downwind just before making the 180­degree turn toward the runway. Allow the nose of the
model to pitch downward to gradually bleed off
altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but maintain
airspeed by keeping the nose down while turning.
Apply up elevator to level the plane when it reaches the
end of the runway and is about five to ten feet off the
ground. If the model is too far away, carefully add a
small amount of power to fly the model closer. If going
too fast, smoothly advance the throttle and allow the
model to gain airspeed, then apply elevator to climb­out and go around to make another attempt. When
finally ready to touch down, continue to apply up
elevator, but not so much that the airplane will climb.
Continue to apply up elevator while the plane descends
until it gently touches down.

After you have landed and shut the engine off, adjust
the pushrods on the ailerons, elevator and rudder as
necessary so the trim levers on the transmitter may be
returned to center (this will not be required on any of
the controls that did not need trim adjustments).

1. After flying for the day, don't forget to use your fuel
pump to drain excess fuel from the tank.

2. Do not reuse torn or oily rubber bands. Purchase spare
rubber bands (HCAQ2020, 1/4 lb box). After flying, oily
rubber bands should be stored in a container with talcum
powder or kitty litter. This will absorb oil and keep the
rubber bands fresh for the next flying session.

3. After each day's flying, use spray cleaner and paper
towels to thoroughly clean the model.

Maintenance Tips