Hobbico Hobbistar 60 MKII Assembly Instructions Manual

90-DAY LIMITED WARRANTY

If you, as the original owner of this model, discover defects in par ts and workmanship within 90 days of purchase, Hobbico will repair or replace
it – at the option of our authorized U.S.repair facility, Hobby Services – without charge. Our liability does not include the cost of shipping to us.
However, Hobby Services will pay shipping expenses to return your model to you.You must provide proof of purchase, such as your original
purchase invoice or receipt, for your model’s warranty to be honored. This warranty does not apply to damage or defects caused by misuse or
improper assembly, service or shipment. Modifications, alterations or repair by anyone other than Hobby Services voids this warranty.We are
sorry, but we cannot be responsible for crash damage and/or resulting loss of kits, engines, accessories, etc.

Your Hobbistar .60 MKII ARF must be returned directly to Hobby Services for warranty work. The address is: Hobby Services, Attn: Service
Department, 1610 Interstate Drive , Champaign, IL 61822-1067. Phone: [phone]. Please follow the instructions below when returning
your model.This will help our experienced technicians to repair and return it as quickly as possible.

1. ALWAYS return your entire system, including airplane and radio.

2. Disconnect the receiver battery switch harness and make sure that the transmitter is turned off. Disconnect all batteries and drain all fuel.

3. Include a list of all items returned and a THOROUGH, written explanation of the problem and ser vice needed. If you expect the repair to be
covered under warranty, also include your proof of purchase.

4. Include your full return address and a phone number where you can be reached during the day.

If your model is past the 90 day warranty period or is e xcluded from warr anty cov erage , y ou can still receive repair service through Hobb y

Services

at a nominal cost. Repair charges and postage may be prepaid or billed COD.Additional postage charges will be applied for non-

warranty returns.
All repairs shipped outside the United States must be prepaid in U.S. funds only. All pictures, descriptions and specifications found in this
instruction manual and on the product package are subject to change without notice. Hobbico maintains no responsibility for inadvertent errors.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

© Copyright 2001 HCAZ3083 for HCAA2101 V1.0

Wingspan: 71" [1,803mm]
Wing area: 887.5" [57.24 sq. dm.]
Weight: 7 lbs [3,630g]
Wing loading: 18 oz/sq ft [55 g/sq. cm]
Length: 55" [1,397mm]
Radio: 4-ch (four servos)
Engine: .61 two-stroke, .91 four-stroke

[10cc 2-stroke, 15cc 4-stroke]

2

You’re about to build in just hours what took aviation pioneers years–a powered machine that flies.

Specially created for you and other first-time r adio control modelers , Hobbico’s Hobbistar .60 MKII offers
nearly all the excitement of piloting a real airplane...and develops skills that will take you anywhere you
want in your hobby.

Kit Contents / Ordering Replacement Parts

Need to purchase replacement parts for your Hobbistar .60 MKII ARF? Please see the chart below
regarding purchase information for parts. Please note that only those items listed are available and
individual pieces within a particular set (such as a single aileron or a firewall) cannot be purchased
separately.

Item

Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces Contact Hobby Services (see warranty front page)
Plans Construction Plans Plans are not available for ARF models
Manual Instructions Contact Hobby Services (see warranty front page)
Hardware Individual hardware items Contact your hobby supplier*

HCAA3107 MKII Fuselage Contact your hobby supplier*
HCAA3106 MKII Landing Gear Contact your hobby supplier*
HCAA3108 MKII Wing Set Contact your hobby supplier*
HCAA3109 MKII Tail Set Contact your hobby supplier*
HCAA3104 MKII Wing Tip Contact your hobby supplier*

*Please visit your favorite hobby shop or contact your favorite mail order / Internet order fir m to purchase
these items.As a distributor, we support our retailers by ref erring all business to them, so our support team
does not normally sell these items. Please feel free to visit www.hobbico.com and click on “Where to
Buy” to assist you in locating a dealer in your area.

3

Kit / Airframe Parts & Hardware

Other General Items Required

3

11

11

11

10

16

15

12

5

4

6

8

9

13

2

1

1

7

Hardware

Kit / Airframe Parts

1 Wing with Ailerons
2 Fuselage
3 Stab with Elevators
4 Fin with Rudder
5 Spinner
6 Nose Gear Wire
7 Main Landing Gear Wire (2)
8 Wheels (3)
9 Fuel Tank with Hardware

10 Wing Dowels

11 Wing Joiner
12 Aileron Ser vo Tray
13 Plywood Ser vo Tray
14 Engine Mount Straps
15 Aileron Ser vo Tray Blocks
16 Wing Joining Tape
17 Pushrods and Pushrod Tubes

14

17

Clothespins
Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8062)
Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
1/4" Foam Rubber (HCAQ1050)
T-Pins (HCAR5150)
Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
Monofilament String

Felt-Tip Pen
Sanding Block
Adjustable Wrench
Paper Towels
Builders Triangle Set

(HCAR0480)
Plastic Wrap or Wax Paper

Round Toothpicks
Wire Cutter
#64 Rubber Bands
70% Isopropyl Alcohol
Small Hobby Clamps
Razor Saws

4

Other Items You’ll Need:

Glues

Choose 6-minute and 30-minute epoxy, such as Great Planes® Pro™Epoxy,
which has been formulated especially for R/C model building. Pro Epoxies
offer a strong bond and a variety of curing times suited for every step of
assembly. You’ll also need a thin instant-setting CA (cyanoacrylate),
medium CA+, plus rubbing alcohol for easy epoxy cleanup. Great Planes
Pro Threadlocker is also recommended to secure threaded fasteners.

Model Engine

Power your Hobbistar .60 MKII with a hot
2-stroke such as

an O.S®..61 FX.If you prefer a
4-stroke, an O.S. FS-91 is an ideal choice.Your
choice of 2-stroke or 4-stroke will determine the
location of the throttle servo and throttle pushrod
exit on the firewall, so plan ahead.

Radio Equipment

In selecting a radio system for your Hobbistar .60 MKII,
you’ll need at least a 4-channel radio system with four
standard servos. Many of the 4-channel radios offered
include only three servos, so it may be necessary to
purchase an extra servo along with your radio system.
The servos and receiver will be mounted on-board your
model and need to be cushioned from shock and
vibration. One-half inch thick foam rubber sheets
(HCAQ1050) are av ailable from your hobby dealer for this
purpose.

Tools

Tools and accessor ies required for assembly include a hobby knife; small
and large Phillips screwdrivers; needle nose pliers; electric drill with 1/16"
[1.5mm] and 1/8" [3mm] bits; r uler; 2 feet of medium (3/32") fuel tubing;
and 150 to 200-grit sandpaper.

Your Hobbico Hobbistar .60 MKII is not a toy,

but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the
Hobbistar .60 MKII, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury
to yourself or spectators and damage property.

If this is your first trainer, or if you are
uncomfortable in making the initial flight of
your Hobbistar .60 MKII, it is recommended
that you get help from an experienced,
knowledgeable modeler with your initial
flights.

You may also want to contact the Academy of
Model Aeronautics (AMA), which has more

than 2,500 chartered clubs across the country.
Through the AMA, you should either be able to
locate a modeler nearby that can help, or at
least be able to phone one that can verbally
instruct you for any potential problems that
could occur.Contact the AMA at

the address or

phone number

below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Office: [phone]

Toll Free: [phone]

Fax:[phone]

Internet:http://www.modelaircraft.org

5

WARNING! This is not a Toy!

Please follow these safety precautions:

Before you fly:

1. Make sure that no other fliers are using your radio
frequency.

2. Your radio transmitter must be the FIRST thing you
turn ON, and the LAST thing you turn OFF.

3.Double check all control surfaces.

4.Make sure that the transmitter & receiver batteries are
fully charged.

Fuel storage and care:

1.Do not smoke near your engine or fuel.

2. Store all engine fuel in a safe, cool, dry place, away
from children and pets. Model fuel will evaporate, so
make sure that you always store it with the
cap secure.

When starting and running your engine:

1.Always wear safety glasses.

2.Make certain that your glow plug clip is securely
attached to the glow plug and cannot pop off, possibly
falling into the spinning propeller.

3. Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the
engine – NOT your fingers.

4. Make sure that the wires from your starter and glow
plug clip cannot become tangled with the spinning
propeller.

5. Do not stand at the side of the propeller when you
start or run the engine. Even at idle speed, the
spinning propeller will be nearly invisible.

6.If any engine adjustments are necessary, approach the
engine only from behind the spinning propeller.

JOIN THE AMA

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

Protect Your Model,Yourself & Others...
Follow This Impor tant Safety Precaution

❏ 1. Locate three plywood wing joiners. Using

6-minute epoxy, glue them together to form the
wing joiner.

❏2.After the glue has cured, test fit the joiner into

the wing. Be sure that the upward angle of the
joiner is towards the top of the wing.

❏3. Once you are satisfied with the fit of the wing

joiner, apply a liber al amount of 30-minute epo xy to
the joiner and the wing ribs.Put the wing joiner into
the joiner box in the wing and push the two wing
halves together and allow the glue to cure.

❏4. Use masking tape to hold the two wing halves

together while the epoxy cures. Wipe away any
excess epoxy from the wing surface with Isopropyl
alcohol.

❏5. Locate the plywood aileron servo tray. Place

it in position over the opening in the bottom of the
wing. With a felt-tip pen, mark the position of the
servo tray.

Wing Assembly

6

❏ 6. Use a hobby knife to cut away the material

that you have just mar ked with the felt-tip pen. Cut
lightly, being sure that you do not cut into the
surface of the wood.

❏7.Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the servo tray to

the

opening in the bottom of the wing. Important

Note:

Before gluing the tray in place, test fit your servo

into the wing. The opening is deep enough to

accommodate most servos.If it is not deep enough
for your particular brand of servos, glue the servo
tray to the two 1/4" [6mm] balsa blocks included in
the kit and then, glue the blocks to the wing
with epoxy.

❏ 8. Locate the blue wing joining material. Peel

off the backing and carefully place it ov er the seam
on the top and bottom of the wing.

❏1. Cut away the co vering at the rear of the

fuselage

for the horizontal stab, fin and pushrod openings.
Cut away the remainder of the stab opening at the
rear of the fuselage with your hobby knife.

Prepare the Fuselage

7

❏ 2. Turn the fuselage over and cut away the

covering on the bottom of the fuselage for the
landing gear.

❏ 3. Cut away the cover ing at the wing saddle for

the wing hold down dowel holes.

❏ 4. Using 6-minute epoxy, glue the two wooden

dowels in place at the wing saddle.

❏ 5. Fit the horizontal stabilizer in place at the

rear of the fuselage. Do not glue it in place!

❏6. Apply a piece of masking tape across the top

of the fuselage at the back of the wing saddle.
Mark the center of the fuselage on the tape. Insert
a T-pin on the center mark.

❏ 7. Attach one end of monofilament string or a

small tape measure to the T-pin. Measure back to
the end of the stabilizer on the left side of the
fuselage. Do the same for the right side of the
fuselage.When the distance from the T-pin to each
side of the stabilizer is equal, the stab is properly
positioned.

8

❏ 8. Once the stab has been proper ly positioned,

use a felt-tip marker and trace the outline of the
fuse onto the stabilizer .Do this on both the top and
bottom of the stabilizer.

❏ 9. Cut away the covering inside of the lines you

made on the stab. Do this on both the top and the
bottom of the stabilizer , being careful not to cut into
the wood sheeting.

❏10.Use a few rubber bands and mount the wing

in place on the wing saddle.

❏ 11. With the stabilizer in place in the rear of the

fuselage, step back a few feet and look at the
stabilizer in relation to the wing.The distance from
the top of the stab to the bottom of the wing should
be the same. If each end of the stabilizer is not
equal in distance from the wing, lightly sand one
side of the opening until both ends of the stabilizer
measure the same distance from the wing.

❏ 12. Once you have the stabilizer properly fit to

the fuselage, remove it and apply 6-minute epoxy
to the stabilizer where you cut the material away
and to the wing saddle. Slide the stabilizer into the
fuselage. Re-check to be sure the stabilizer is
positioned properly and that it is in the correct
position in relation to the wing.

❏ 13. After the epoxy has cured on the stabilizer,

test fit the fin into the slot in the top of the fuselage.

9

Use a triangle to make sure that the fin is
perpendicular to the stab. Once you are satisfied
with the fit, glue the fin to the fuselage with
6-minute epoxy.

❏1. Inser t the landing g ear struts into the holes

in
the bottom of the fuselage.Secure the landing gear
with the two metal straps.Mount them in place with

3mm x 10mm self-tapping screws.

❏2. Draw two lines at the front of the fuselage

with

a felt-tip pen. Draw the lines using the

dimensions

shown in the above photograph.

❏ 3. At the intersection of the two lines drill a 1/8"

[3mm] hole in the fuselage bottom.The hole needs

to be drilled at a 30° angle. Cut one of the white
tubes to 11" and rough it up with 240-grit

sandpaper.
Insert the tube into the fuselage so that the end of
the tube is even with the bottom of the fuselage.
Epoxy the tube to the fuselage.

❏4.Install the nose gear control horn parallel to

the nose gear axle and tighten the mounting screw
against the flat side of the wire.Next install a 4mm
x 10mm collar on top of the control horn and
secure with a 3mm x 4mm screw. Slide the nose
gear shaft through the nose gear mount. Secure
the gear in place with another 4mm x 10mm collar
and a 3mm x 4mm screw.

❏ 5. Locate one of the 18" wire control rods.

Make a 90° bend 5/16" [8mm] from the end of
the wire.

Landing Gear Installation

10

❏ 6. Slide the 18" wire control rod into the white

nylon tube. Install the wire onto the control horn
and retain it in place with the 1/16" wheel collar
and 4-40 set screw.

❏ 7. Install the wheel on the nose gear.The nose

wheel has a slightly smaller axle hole than the
remaining two wheels. Install a 4mm x 10mm
wheel collar and secure it with a 3mm x 4mm
screw. Install a 5mm x 10mm wheel collar on
each side of the main landing gear.Then install the
wheels and the other 5mm x 10mm wheel collar.
Secure the wheel collars with the 3mm x 4mm
screws. All three wheels should turn freely. If not,
trim the inside of the wheel slightly.

❏ 1. Locate the two metal engine mount straps.

❏ 2. Put your engine onto the engine mount.

Note:

Depending on your engine you may need to
cut away portions of the fuselage sides for
clearance for the muffler or needle valve.

Place the
engine mounting straps over the mounting rails of
the engine. Screw the mounting rails in place with
the 4mm x 15mm screwsand 4mm lock

washers.

❏ 3. Remove the fuel tank compartment cover

from the fuselage. Locate the white nylon tube
and cut it to a length of 9".Install it through the pre­drilled hole in the firewall. Epoxy the tube in place
so that 1" of the tube protrudes through the firewall.

Engine Installation

11

❏ 4. Assemble the fuel tank using the above

sketch and the following instr uctions. Push the two
aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper until
1/2" [13mm] of the tubes protrudes from the front
of the stopper.Slide the large cap onto the front of
the stopper and the small cap onto the back.
Insert the stopper screw into the center hole in
the front of the cap, then just begin to screw it
through the stopper into the aft of the stopper cap.

❏5.Push one end of the silicone pickup tube all

the way onto the clunk, and the other end all the
way onto one aluminum tube. Bend the other
aluminum tube (vent) upward at about a 45° angle,
being careful not to kink the tube.

❏6. Insert the stopper assembly into the fuel tank

and tighten the stopper screw.

❏7. Install the tank into the fuel tank

compartment.
Apply a bead of silicone sealant around the fuel
tank cap when installing the tank into the fuselage.
Attach silicone fuel line from the tank to the
carburetor and muffler pressure fitting.

❏8.Put masking tape onto the fuel tank

compartment
cover as shown. Mark lines on the tape at the
dimensions shown in the photograph. Drill four
1/16" [1.5mm] holes at the intersection of the lines,
drilling through the cover and the four hardwood
blocks in the fuselage. Secure the hatch to the
fuselage with four 2.6mm x 12mm screws.

❏ 1. Locate one of the wooden pushrods with

wire on each end. Insert the threaded end of the
rudder pushrod into the fuselage, working it around
until the end of the pushrod is extending through
the exit hole on the top of the fuselage.

Pushrod Installation

12

❏ 2. Insert the threaded end of the elevator

pushrod into the fuselage, working it around until
the end of the rod is extending through the e xit hole
on the lower left side of the fuselage.

❏3. Install the nylon clevis onto the threaded end

of the pushrod. Turn the clevis onto the rod with
14-turns of the clevis.

❏ 4. Position the rudder control horn on the

rudder. Make a mark with a felt-tip pen where the
holes need to be drilled. Note:

When installing the
control horns, the centerline of the control horn
holes must be the same as the center line of the
hinge joint as shown in the above sketch.

Drill a
1/16" [1.5mm] hole through the marks you just
made.Insert the 2mm x 20mm screws through the
control horn and into the control horn backplate.

❏5. Position the ele vator control horn on the

elevator

following the same procedure used for the rudder.

❏ 1. Locate the plywood servo tray. Cut off the

portion of the tray indicated by the dashed line.

Radio Installation

INCORRECTCORRECT

HINGE LINE

13

❏ 2. Using the hardware that comes with your

servos, install the servos as shown. Use a 1/6"
[1.5mm] drill to pre-drill the holes for the servo
mounting screws. If you do not pre-drill the holes
there is a chance that the plywood may split.

❏ 3. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the tray in place

inside of the fuselage.When properly installed, the
servo tray will rest firmly on the rear former.

❏ 4. On both sides of the fuselage there is a cut

out for your radio switch. Cut away the mater ial on
one side of the fuselage for the switch harness.

Mount the switch to the fuselage following the
instructions included with your radio system.

❏ 5. Plug the switch into the receiver and the

receiver battery. Plug the servos into the receiver
(consult your radio instruction manual for proper
installation if you are unfamiliar with this).Wrap the
receiver and the battery in foam rubber .Use rubber
bands to keep the foam in place .It is important that
the receiver and battery be wrapped in the foam to
protect them from engine vibration. Place the
receiver and battery in place as shown. We
recommend that you glue scrap balsa stick to the
fuselage to keep them in place.

❏ 6. Center the trims on the transmitter, turn on

the transmitter and receiver and allow the servos to
center themselves. Once they are centered, install
the servo arms onto the servos, positioning the
arms as shown in the photograph.

14

❏7. Set the rudder and elevator so they are in the

neutral position as shown.

❏ 8. With the elevator servo and the elevator both

in the neutral position, make a mark on the elev ator
pushrod where the hole in the servo arm is. Make
a 90° bend at the mark on the pushrod. Inser t the
pushrod into the hole in the servo arm and attach
a Great Planes FasLink™(GPMQ3820) to the
pushrod. Repeat this step for the rudder pushrod.
Should you decide to use some other installation
method, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

❏ 9. Locate a screw-lock pushrod connector, a

4-40 set screw and the nylon retainer. Install it on

the remaining arm on the rudder servo by first
sliding the nose gear steering pushrod through the
hole in the fitting and then assembling the screw­lock pushrod connector as shown in the above
sketch. Set the nose wheel to be straight and then
tighten the 4-40 set screw onto the pushrod wire.

❏10.Tur n on the transmitter and receiver.Set the

throttle to full open. Install the pushrod into the
other screw-lock pushrod connector, then open the
carburetor on your engine to full open.Connect the
throttle linkage following the same steps as used
for the nose gear steering.

❏ 11. Install the servo into the plywood servo tray

in the center of the wing.Use a 1/6" [1.5mm] drill to
pre-drill the holes for the servo mounting screws.

❏ 12. Install the clevises on the threaded ends of

the pushrods by turning the clevis 14 times.Thread
the nylon torque rod horn onto the aileron torque
rod and then attach the clevis to the horn.

❏ 13. Connect the aileron servo to the receiver

and center the aileron servo. Center the right
aileron, then align the pushrod to the servo arm.
Make a mark on the pushrod when it is in line with
the hole in the servo horn. Bend the wire 90
degrees on the mark you just made. After making
the bend in the pushrod, install it through the hole
in the servo horn and attach it with a Faslink.

❏14. Follow the same procedure for the left

aileron.

RETAINER

2-56 (.074")

Pushrod Wire

Servo Horn

FasLink

1/16"

15

❏ 15. Cut off two leftover servo arms as shown in

the above diagram. These will be used to make a
simple strain relief for your receiver antenna.

❏ 16. Drill a 1/16" [1.5mm] hole in the fuselage.

❏ 17. After cutting the servo arms, thread the

antenna through the hole you drilled in the
fuselage and attach the antenna to the vertical fin
with a rubber band and T-pin as shown above.

❏ 18. Install the propeller recommended by the

engine manufacturer along with the spinner.

By moving the position of the clevis at the control
horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease
the amount of throw of the control surface. Moving
it toward the control surface will increase the
amount of throw. If these adjustments don’t
accomplish the job, you may need to work with a
combination of adjustments by also repositioning
the pushrod at the servo end. Moving the pushrod
towards the center of the servo horn will decrease
the control surface throw – outward will increase it.

Control Thro w Adjustment

Final Assembly

16

Note: Throws are measured at the widest part of
the elevators, rudder and ailerons. We recommend
the following control surface throws as a starting
point:

One leading cause of crashes is flying an airplane
with its control throws set differently from those
recommended in the instructions. The Great
Planes AccuThrow

™

lets you quickly and easily
measure actual throws first, so you can make
necessary corrections before you fly. Large, no-slip
rubber feet provide a firm grip on covered surfaces
without denting or marring the finish. Spring
tension holds AccuThrow’s plastic r uler steady by
each control surface. Curved to match control
motions, the ruler provides exact readings in both
standard or metric measurements. GPMR2405.

Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper
direction as illustrated in the following sketch:

Note: This section is VERY important and must
NOT be omitted! A model that is not properly

balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

❏1.The balance point (C.G.) is located 3-1/2

[89mm]
back from the leading edge of the wing. Balance
your Hobbistar 60 using a Great Planes C.G.
Machine™Airplane Balancer (GPMR2400) for the
most accurate results.This is the balance point at
which your model should balance for your first
flights. Do not at any time balance your model
outside the recommended range.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all

parts of the model installed (ready to fly), and an
empty fuel tank, block up the tail as necessary to
level the stab. Lift the model at the desired balance
point, and observe the tail of the aircraft. If the tail
drops, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight* to the nose to balance the model. If the

Balance Y our Model

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

(STANDARD MODE 2)

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

Elevator: 1/2" [13mm] Up and Down
Rudder: 1" [26mm] Right and Left
Ailerons: 1/2" [13mm] Up and Down

Control Surface Throws

17

nose drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add
weight* to the tail to balance the model.

Note: Nose weight may be easily installed by using
a “spinner weight.” Tail weight may be added by
using Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead
weights.

*If possible, first attempt to balance the model by
changing the position of the receiver battery. If you
are unable to obtain good balance by doing so,
then it will be necessary to add weight to the nose
or tail to achieve the proper balance point.
Remember to secure the receiver and battery after
your model has been balanced.

IMPORTANT: Do not confuse this procedure with
“checking the C.G.” or “balancing the airplane fore
and aft.”

Now that you have the basic airplane nearly
completed, this is a good time to balance the
airplane laterally (side-to-side). Here is how to do

it:

❏ 1. Assemble the model as in preparation for

flight. (No fuel is required for this procedure.)

❏ 2. With the wing level, lift the model by the

engine propeller shaft and the fin post (this may
require two people). Do this several times.

❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the

model, it means that side is heavy. Balance the
airplane by adding weight to the opposite, lighter
wing tip.

Note: An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

At this time check all connections including servo
horn screws, clevises, servo cords and extensions.

Follow the battery charging procedures in your
radio instruction manual.You should always charge
your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go flying and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Carefully balance your propellers before flying. An
unbalanced prop is the single most significant
cause of vibration. Not only may engine mounting
screws vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect,
but vibration may also damage your radio receiver
and battery.Vibration may cause your fuel to foam,
which will, in turn, cause your engine to run lean
or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop
Balancer™(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep
a Great Planes Fingertip Balancer (GPMQ5000) in
our flight box.

We strongly suggest that the best place to fly is an
AMA chartered club field. Ask the AMA or your
local hobby shop dealer if there is a club in your
area and join. Club fields are set up for R/C flying
and that makes your outing safer and more
enjoyable. The AMA address and telephone
number are in the front of this manual.If a club and
flying site are not available, find a large, grassy
area at least 6 miles away from houses, buildings
and streets and any other R/C radio operation like
R/C boats and R/C cars. A schoolyard may look
inviting but is too close to people, power lines and
possible radio interference.

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Balance the Propeller

Charge the Batteries

Preflight

Balance Your Model Laterally

18

Inspect your radio installation and confirm that all
the control surfaces respond correctly to the
transmitter inputs.The engine operation must also
be checked by confirming that the engine idles
reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly to full
power and maintains full power, indefinitely. The
engine must be “broken-in” on the ground by

running

it for at least two tanks of fuel. Follow the

engine

manufacturer’s recommendations for

break-in.
Make sure that all screws remain tight, that the
hinges are secure and that the prop is on tight.

Whenever you go to the flying field, check the
operational range of the radio before the first flight
of the day. First, make sure no one else is on your
frequency (channel). With your transmitter on, you
should be able to walk at least 100 feet away from
the model and still have control.While you work the
controls, have a helper stand by your model and
tell you what the control surfaces are doing.
Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with a helper holding the model. If the
control surfaces are not always responding
correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem
first.Look for loose servo connections or corrosion,
loose bolts that may cause vibration, a defective
on/off switch, low battery voltage or a defective
receiver battery, a damaged receiver antenna, or a
receiver crystal that may have been damaged from
a previous crash.

Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions
may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a saf e place, a wa y from high
heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable.
Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and
remember that the engine exhaust gives off a g reat
deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Do not run the
engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning
to operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running
engines. Do not run the engine in an area of loose
gravel or sand; the propeller may throw such
material in your face or eyes.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators
away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as
you start and run the engine.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or
loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that
may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric star ter to star t the
engine.Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller.
Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is
secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get
into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the
rotating propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good
condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine,
causing a fire.

T o stop a glo w engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any
other body part to try to stop the engine.Do not throw
anything into the propeller of a running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of
Model Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than
approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an air por t
without notifying the airport operator. I will give
right of way to and avoid flying in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer

AMA Safety Code (excerpt)

Engine Safety Precautions

Range Check Your Radio

Ground Check the Model

19

shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety
rules for the flying site I use and I will not willfully
and deliberately fly my models in a careless,
reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in
the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
or any kind).

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio
equipment ground check before the first flight of a
new or repaired model airplane.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away
from the pit or spectator areas and I will not
thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless
beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission.

You will find the Hobbistar 60 MKII a predictable,
easy flying airplane. The plane is very good for
learning how to fly and will allow you to proceed
into some advanced flying maneuvers once you
have learned the basics.

Before the first flight it is a good idea to taxi the
plane on the ground to get a feel for the ground
handling characteristics of the plane.Once you feel
comfortable with the way it taxis, it is time to line it
up on the end of the runway. Slowly advance the
throttle and use the rudder / nose wheel steering to

maintain a straight run down the runway. When the
airplane begins to pick up significant speed, slowly
pull back on the elevator stick on your radio.
Maintain a gentle climbing attitude until the plane is
approximately 75 feet high, then begin a turn away
from the pit area.

Once airborne, you will find that the plane is a very
predictable and docile flyer. Until you are very
comfortable with the plane, it is recommended that
you practice gentle turns, both to the left and the
right. Once you are comfortable with making both
right and left hand turns you may want to
experiment with rolls and loops. The plane is
capable of most all of the flying maneuvers a
newcomer will ever want to learn.

When it is time to land the plane, set up straight in line
with the end of the runway at approximately 75 feet.
Gradually begin to decrease the power and the plane
will begin to descend. Maintain the wings in a level

Landing

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C
AIRPLANES): If, while flying, you notice any

unusual sounds, such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this
may be an indication of control surface “flutter.”
Because flutter can quickly destroy components of
your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must
immediately cut the throttle and land the airplane!
Check all servo grommets for deterioration (this will
indicate which surface fluttered), and make sure all
pushrod linkages are slop-free.If it fluttered once, it
will probably flutter again under similar

circumstances
unless you can eliminate the slop or flexing in the
linkages. Here are some things which can result in
flutter: Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control
horns solidly; Sloppy fit of clevis pin in the control
horn; Elasticity present in flexible plastic pushrods;
Side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by tight
bends; Sloppy fit of Z-bend in servo arm;
Insufficient glue used when gluing in the elevator
joiner wire or aileron torque rod; Excessive flexing
of aileron, caused by using too soft balsa aileron;
Excessive “play” or “backlash” in servo gears; and
Insecure servo mounting.

Flying

Takeoff

Flying

20

attitude as the plane descends. Maintain
approximately 1/3rd throttle until you are above the
end of the runway. At this point you should be at an
altitude of approximately ten feet. Now is the time to
decrease the throttle to just above idle, maintain a
level wing attitude and flare the airplane to a smooth
touch down by pulling back on the elevator stick.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly
in a safe manner.

Note: The following article has been reprinted in par t for

future reference and also as a guide for your flight
instructor or experienced flying partner to help you with
trimming your model. If further information is required,
please contact your local hobby dealer, local flying club
or call Great Planes at [phone].

A model is not a static object. Unlike a car, which
you can only hunt left or right on the road (technically, a
car does yaw in corners, and pitches when the brakes
are applied), a plane moves through that fluid we call air
in all directions simultaneously. The plane may look like
it’s going forward, but it could also be yawing slightly,
slipping a little and simultaneously climbing or diving a
bit! The controls interact.Yaw can be a rudder problem,
a lateral balance problem or an aileron rigging problem.
We must make many flights, with minor changes
between each, to isolate and finally correct the problem.

The chart accompanying this ar ticle is intended to
serve as a handy field reference when trimming your
model.Laminate it in plastic and keep it in your flight box.
You just might have need to consult it at the next contest!
The chart is somewhat self-explanatory, but we will
briefly run through the salient points.

First, we are assuming that the model has been
C.G. balanced according to the manufacturer’s
directions. There’s nothing sacred about that spot –
frankly, it only reflects the balance point where a
prototype model handled the way the guy who designed
it thought it should. If your model’s wing has a degree
more or less of incidence, then the whole balance
formula is incorrect for y ou.But, it’s a good ballpark place
to start.

The second assumption is that the model has been
balanced laterally. Wrap a strong str ing or monofilament
around the prop shaft behind the spinner, then tie the
other end to the tail wheel or to a screw driven into the

bottom of the aft fuse. Make the string into a bridle
harness and suspend the entire model inverted (yes,
with the wing on!). If the r ight wing always drops, sink
some screws or lead into the left wing tip, etc.You may
be surprised to find out how much lead is needed.

At this point the model is statically trimmed. It’s only
a starting point, so don’t be surprised if you wind up
changing it all. One other critical feature is that the
ailerons must have their hinge gap sealed. If shoving
some Scotch

®

tape or MonoKote®into the hinge gap to
prevent the air from slipping from the top of the wing to
the bottom, and vice-versa, bothers you, then don’t do it.

To achieve the maximum lateral trim on the model,
the hinge gap on the ailerons should be sealed. The
easiest way to do this is to disconnect the aileron
linkages, and fold the ailerons as far over the top of the
wing as possible (assuming they are top or center
hinged). Apply a strip of clear tape along the joint line.
When the aileron is returned to neutral, the tape will be
invisible, and the gap will be effectively sealed.
Depending on how big the ailerons are, and how large a
gaping gap you normally leave when you install hinges,
you could experience a 20 percent increase in aileron
control response just by this simple measure.

Your first flights should be to ascertain control
centering and control feel. Does the elevator always
come back to neutral after a 180° turn or Split-S? Do the
ailerons tend to hunt a little after a rolling maneuver? Put
the plane through its paces. Control center ing is either a
mechanical thing (binding servos, stiff linkages, etc.), an
electronic thing (bad servo resolution or dead band in
the radio system), or C.G. (aft Center of Gravity will
make the plane wander a bit).The last possibility will be
obvious, but don’t continue the testing until you have
isolated the problem and corrected it.

Let’s get down to the task of trimming the model.
Use the tachometer every time you start the engine, to
insure consistent results.These trim flights must be done
in calm weather. Any wind will only make the model
weather vane.Each “maneuver”on the list assumes that
you will enter it dead straight-and-level. The wings must
be perfectly flat, or else the maneuver will not be correct
and you’ll get a wrong interpretation. That’s where your
observer comes in.Instruct him to be especially watchful
of the wings as you enter the maneuvers.

Do all maneuvers at full throttle.The only deviation
from this is if the plane will routinely be flown through
maneuvers at a different power setting.

Let’s commence with the “engine thrust angle” on
the chart. Note that the observations you make can also
be caused by the C.G., so be prepared to change both
to see which gives the desired result. Set up a straight­and-level pass. The model should be almost hands-off.
Without touching any other control on the transmitter,
suddenly chop the throttle.Did the nose drop? When you
add power again, did the nose pitch up a bit? If so, you
need some down thrust, or nose weight.When the thrust

Flight T rimming

Appendix

21

is correct, the model

should continue along the same flight

path for at least a

dozen plane lengths before gravity

starts to naturally bring it down.

Do each maneuver several times, to make sure that
you are getting a proper diagnosis. Often, a gust, an
accidental nudge on the controls, or just a poor
maneuver entry can mislead you.The thrust adjustments
are a real pain to make.On most models, it means taking
the engine out, adding shims, then reassembling the
whole thing. Don’t take shortcuts.

Don’t try to proceed with the other adjustments until
you hav e the thrust line and/or C.G.correct.They are the
basis upon which all other trim settings are made.

Also, while you have landed, take the time to crank
the clevises until the transmitter trims are at neutral.
Don’t leave the airplane so that the transmitter has some
odd-ball combination of trim settings. One bump of the
transmitter and you have lost everything. The trim must
be repeatable, and the only sure way to do this is to
always start with the transmitter control trims at the
middle.

The next maneuver is somewhat more tricky than it
looks.To verify C.G., we roll the model up to a 45° bank,
then take our hands off the controls. The model should
go a reasonable distance with the fuse at an even keel.
If the nose pitches down, remove some nose w eight, and
the opposite if the nose pitches up. The trick is to use
only the ailerons to get the model up at a 45° bank. We
almost automatically start feeding in elevator, but that’s a
no-no. Do the bank in both directions, just to make sure
that you are getting an accurate reading of the
longitudinal balance.

We now want to test the correct alignment of both
sides of the elevator (even if they aren’t split, like a
Pattern ship’s, they can still be warped or twisted). Yaw
and lateral balance will also come into play here, so be
patient and eliminate the variables, one-by-one. The
maneuver is a simple loop, but it must be entered with
the wings perfectly level. Position the maneuver so that
your assistant can observe it end-on. Always loop into
the wind.Do several loops , and see if the same symptom
persists. Note if the model loses heading on the front or
back side of the loop. If you lose it on the way up, it’s
probably an aileron problem, while a loss of heading on
the way back down is most likely a rudder situation.

Note that the Yaw test is the same looping
sequences. Here, however, we are altering rudder and
ailerons, instead of the elevator halves. We must repeat
that many airplanes just will not achieve adequate lateral
trim without sealing the hinge gaps shut. The larger you
make the loops (to a point), the more discernable the
errors will be.

The Lateral Balance test has us pulling those loops
very tightly. Pull straight up into a vertical and watch
which wing drops. A true vertical is hard to do, so make
sure that your assistant is observing from another
vantage point. Note that the engine torque will affect the

vertical fall off, as will rudder errors. Even though we
balance the wing statically before leaving f or the field, we
are now trimming it dynamically.

The Aileron Coupling (or rigging), is also tested by
doing Hammerheads Stalls.This time, however, we w ant
to observe the side view of the model. Does the plane
want to tuck under a bit? If so, then try trimming the
ailerons down a small bit, so that they will act as flaps.If
the model tends to want to go over into a loop, then rig
both ailerons up a few turns on the clevises. Note that
drooping the ailerons will tend to cancel any washout
you have in the wing. On some models, the lack of
washout can lead to some nasty characteristics at low
speeds.

Again, we reiterate that all of these controls are
interactive.When you change the wing incidence, it will
influence the way the elevator trim is at a given C.G.Re­trimming the wing will also change the rigging on the
ailerons, in effect, and they may have to be readjusted
accordingly.

The whole process isn’t hard. As a matter of fact it’s
rather fun – but very time consuming. It’s amazing what
you will learn about why a plane flies the wa y it does, and
you’ll be a better pilot for it. One thing we almost
guarantee, is that your planes will be more reliable and
predictable when they are properly trimmed out. They
will fly more efficiently, and be less prone to doing radical
and surprising things. Your contest scores should
improve, too.

We wish to acknowledge the Orlando, Florida, club
newsletter, from which the basics of the chart presented
here were gleaned.

Reprinted in part by Great Planes Model Manufacturing
Company, courtesy of Scale R/C Modeler

magazine, Pat

Potega, Editor, August 1983 issue.

See the Flight Trimming Chart on Page 23

22

23

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVERS OBSERVATIONS CORRECTIONS

CONTROL
CENTERING

CONTROL
THROWS

ENGINE
THRUST
ANGLE

1

CENTER OF
GRAVITY
LONGITUDINAL
BALANCE

YAW

2

LATERAL
BALANCE

AILERON
RIGGING

Fly general circles and
random maneuvers.

Random maneuvers

From straight flight,
chop throttle quickly.

From level flight roll to
45° bank and
neutralize controls.

Into wind, do open loops,
using only elevator.
Repeat tests doing
outside loops from
inverted entry.

Into wind, do tight inside
loops.

With wings level, pull
to vertical climb and
neutralize controls.

Try for hands off straight
and level flight.

A.Too sensitive, jerky

controls.

B. Not sufficient control.
A. Aircraft continues level

path for short distance.
B. Plane pitches nose up.
C. Plane pitches nose down.

A. Continues in bank for

moderate distance.
B. Nose pitches up.
C. Nose drops.

A.Wings are level

throughout.
B.Yaws to right in both

inside and outside loops.
C.Yaws to left in both

inside and outside loops.
D.Yaws right on insides, and

left on outside loops.
E.Yaws left in insides, and

right on outside loops.
A.Wings are level and plane

falls to either side

randomly.
B. Falls off to left in loops.

Worsens as loops

tighten.
C. Falls off to right in loops.

Worsens as loops tighten.
A. Climb continues along

same path.
B. Nose tends to go to

inside loop.
C. Nose tends to go to

outside loop.

Readjust linkages so that
Tx trims are centered.

If A, change linkages to

reduce throws.

If B, increase throws.
If A, trim is okay.
If B, decrease downthrust.

If C, increase downthrust.
If A, trim is good.
If B, add nose weight.

If C, remove nose weight.
If A, trim is correct.
If B, add left rudder trim.
If C, add right rudder trim.
If D, add left aileron tr im.
If E, add right aileron trim.

If A, trim is correct.

If B, add weight to right

wing tip.

If C, add weight to left

wing tip.
If A, trim is correct.
If B, raise both ailerons

very slightly.
If C, lower both ailerons

very slightly.

1. Engine thr ust angle and C.G. interact. Check both.

2.Y aw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that fin may be crooked.Right and left references are from the plane’s
vantage point.

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: __________________

Where Purchased: ___________________

Date Construction Star ted:_____________

Date Construction Finished: __________

Finished Weight:____________________

Date of First Flight:__________________

FLIGHT LOG