Hobbico Diabolo 40 User Manual

ALMOST READY-TO-FLY RADIO CONTROLLED MODEL AIRPLANE

• SUPERIOR QUALITY IN AN ALMOST-READY-TO-FLY MODEL

• SPECIAL COVERING PROCESS YIELDS A STRONG,
BRILLIANT, AND FUEL-PROOF FINISH

• 90% COMPLETE OUT OF THE BOX—NO SANDING, PAINTING, OR
FINISHING REQUIRED

• SMOOTH, STEADY FLIGHT CHARACTERISTICS, JUST LIKE
A REAL PLANE

• CAPABLE OF FULL 4-CHANNEL AEROBATICS

© ENTIRE CONTENTS COPYRIGHT 1989, HOBBICO, INC. V1 .0

IMPORTANT: BEFORE YOU BEGIN.

Congratulations on your choice of an ASAP kit BEFORE you begin assembly, carefully look through the box and
thoroughly read the instruction manual Also check the parts list against the items in the box to be sure you have
everything that is on the parts list Although we have taken great pains to simplify the building process, there are no
shortcuts to safety These instructions are your guide to safe and successful flying

Only after you are thoroughly familiar with the construction process should you proceed with assembly

REMEMBER! Under no circumstances will a dealer accept a kit back for return if assembly has
already begun.

If the Diabolo 40 is not quite what you expected, return it to your dealer in NEW and UNUSED condition
However, we think you will agree with us that the Diabolo 40 is one of the finest models of its type and will offer you
many hours of enjoyment

BEFORE ASSEMBLY

CONSTRUCTION HINTS:

(1) Trial fit each part before gluing Be certain that the parts fit properly

(2) Use PlastiZap or a thin type Cyanoacrylate glue for installing

the plastic parts Do not use too much as it may run and spoil the
appearance Do not get Cyanoacrylate on the foam parts of the Diabolo
Cyanoacrylate will destroy the foam

(3) It is best to use 30 minute epoxy where required This allows time to

position the parts before the epoxy cures

(4) Before assembly, place your radio system on charge

ADDITIONAL ITEMS

Most engines require a 1.5V glow plug starting battery a glow plug clip and a
quality brand fuel (consult the engine manufacturer's recommendations)

The following items are needed for completing the Diabolo 40 kit
Medium Fuel Tubing (12 ") (1)

40 45 Sized 2 Stroke (1)

or

60 70 Sized 4 Stroke (1)
4 Channel Radio System (1)
Pacer PlastiZap CA Glue (1)
Screw Locking Compound (Pacer Zap Lock) (1)
Goldberg #481 Foam Rubber (1)
30 Minute Epoxy (1)
Silicone Sealer (1)
Dubro 121 E Z Connects (Optional) (2)
Dubro 203 Kwik Switch Mount (Optional) (1)

TOOLS —

You will need the following tools to assemble the Diabolo 40 X Acto knife,
Phillips screwdriver (small and medium) needle nose pliers drill drill bits sand
paper and ruler

A quality brand engine will be needed We recommend the OS 40 FP or 40 SF

2 stroke engine A prop and fuel tubing will be required for the engine

A four channel radio control system with 4 servos is required for the Diabolo 40
The various components are pictured above

-2-

PARTS LIST

Before assembly match the parts in the

exploded view of the Diabolo with the

parts in the kit. Check off each part on
the parts list. If any parts are missing or
damaged return the kit to your hobby
dealer.

Check to make sure that all the listed

parts are included in your kit.

1 Fuselage

2 Right Wing

3 Left Wing

4 Wing Center Cover (Plastic)

5 Vertical Fin

6 Rudder

7 Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab.)

8 Cowl

9 Fuel Tank

10 Neoprene Ring

11 Plastic Disc (Small)

12 Plastic Disc (Large)

13 Silicone Tubing
14 Clunk

15 3x18mm Self Tapping Screw
16 Rubber Plug

17 Plastic Collar

Aileron Horn
Control Horns

Snap Clevis
Rod Clevis

Back Plates

18 Fuel Pipe
19 Mounting Plates (Angled)

Mounting Plates (Rectangle)

20 Clevis Retaining Tube
21 Push Rod Exits
22 Stab. Root Cover (Plastic)
23 Wheel

24 Main Gear

25 Wheel Pants
26 Cock Pit
27 Canopy
28 Main Wing Joiner
29 Rear Wing Joiner
30 Front Wing Joiner
31 Rubber Shock Absorber

32 Cowl Brace
33 Aileron Servo Tray Mount
34 Aileron Servo Tray

35 8mm Dowel Rod
36 Wing Bolt Mounting Block
37 Balsa Tank Support
38 Wing Mounting Brace

39 3x12mm Self Tapping Screw

Spinner

Spinner Back Plate
40 Engine Mount
41 Mounting Plates
42 Shrink Tubing
43 Control Rod (Short-Bent)
44 Aileron Control Rods (Short)

45 Throttle Control Rod (Long)
46 Throttle Tube

47 Wood Push Rods

48 Control Rod (Long)
49 Main Servo Tray
50 Stabilizer Supports
51 Plastic Disc
52 Cock Pit Mounts
53 Brass Sleeve

Brass Tube

54 Tail Wheel
55 Spring Steel Strip
56 Tail Gear
57 Tail Control Arm
58 Springs

59 Brass Arms

60 0-Ring

61 Collars
62 Wheel Collar
63 4x40mm Screw
64 4x30mm Screw
65 2x15mm Screws
66 3x8mm Self Tapping Screw
67 3x8mm Screw

68 3x12mm Self-Tapping Screw
69 3x5mm Screw

70 3.5x15mm Screw

3x12mm Screw

71 4x15mm Screw
72 4x20mm Screw

73

4mm

Nut

74

2mm

Nut

75

3mm

Nut

76 4mm Washer
77 3mm Washer
78 2mm Washer

79 Lock Washers
80 4mm Washer

81 4mm Nylon Nut
82 1/8" Plywood Wedge

-3-

WING ASSEMBLY

(A) Right Wing (Aileron Installed) ... 1

(B) Left Wing (Aileron Installed) .... 1

(C) Main

Wing

Joiner

.........

2

(D)

Rear

Wing

Joiner

........

1

(E)

Front

Wing

Joiner

.........

1

(F) Wing Center Cover (Plastic) .... 1

(G)

8mm

Dowel

Rods

.........

2

(H) Wing Bolt Mounting Block ..... 1

(3) Remove the foam covering from the aileron servo mounting area. Test fit the

main wing joiner and the rear wing joiner in the right and left wing sections. The
dihedral angle of the joiners should make the wing tips slightly higher than the
center.

(I)

Wing

Mounting

Brace

........

1

(J)

4x30mm

Bolts

........

.2

(K)

4mm

Washer

..........

.2

(L) 0-Ring . ............ .2

(M) Aileron Servo Tray ......... 1

(N) Aileron Servo Tray Mount ..... 1

(0)

Main

Servo Tray

..........

1

(1) Check each wing half for smooth aileron operation. It is a good ideal to exercise

(move back and forth) the ailerons to insure easy deflection. Sand the end if any
rubbing is noticed.

(4) Make sure that there is no gap between the wing halves. If there is, sand the wing

joiner ends until there is a tight fit.

(2) Align and epoxy the two main wing joiners together. Hold tight until the glue sets.

You'll notice that there is dihedral angle cut into the joiners so make sure they are
perfectly lined up.

(5) Apply epoxy to one half of one side of both the main and rear wing joiners and

glue them to one wing half. Make sure the dihedral angle is correct and that they
are slid in all the way.

-4-

(6) After the joiners have dried, apply epoxy where shown. The wing roots, the

wing joiners and inside the other wing joiner slot should be evenly covered with
epoxy.

(9) Drill two 8mm holes into the wing joiners for the dowel rods.

(7) Slide the two wing halves together slowly and wipe off any excess glue. Hold

the two wing halves firmly together with tape until the epoxy has cured.

(10)

Epoxy the

Iwo

dowel

rods

into

the

holes.

Make sure they are

all

the way

in.

(8) Once dry, remove the tape. Position the front joiner as shown. The flat edge of

the joiner should line up with the top of the wing. next, remove and epoxy in
that same position Let cure.

(11) Position the wing center cover on the bottom of the wing. Apply Cyanoacrylate

glue under the edges and hold until it dries.

-5-

(12) Epoxy in the main servo tray where shown

(15) Screw in the wing bolts half way into the wing bolt mounting block Apply ink

or paint to the heads of the two bolts Next center the wing and set it onto the
bolts This will mark where you need to drill

(13) Test fit the wing bolt mounting block to the inside of the fuselage The blind

nuts should face down

(16) After the epoxy has cured place the wing into the fuselage as shown Put the

front in first aligning the dowel rods in the holes Once in place lower the back
into position

(14) Epoxy the wing bolt mounting block in This is a high stress point and extra

care should be taken to ensure a strong joint

(17) Place the wing mounting brace onto the wing as shown and center the wing

and brace with the fuselage NOTE The two indentations on the brace should
face up PlastiZap it on

-6-

(18) Drill two 4mm holes 90° from the top wing surface for the wing bolts where

the paint marks are.

(21) Epoxy the aileron servo tray mount into the rear section of the wing servo

mount and then epoxy in the tray.

COCKPIT/CANOPY ASSEMBLY

(19) Assemble the wing bolts as shown (bolt — washer — wing — o-ring) and

temporarily fasten down the wing. Check for good fit and then remove.

(A)

Cockpit,

....................................

.1

(B)

Canopy

.....................................

.1

(C)

Cockpit Mounts

................................

.4

(D) 3x8mm Self-Tapping Screws .......................... .4

(20) Trial fit the aileron servo tray mount and tray to the wing. NOTE: The front

edge should

be

on the

wood,

therefore,

you

will

have

to

trim

away a little

covering for a good fit.

(1) Epoxy the four cockpit mounts to the fuselage as shown. Be careful when

gluing the rear mounts to only glue them to the wing mounting brace.

-7-

LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

(2) Once the epoxy has cured, position the cockpit on the fuselage Make 4 small

holes where cockpit mounts are located Attach with the 4 small self-tapping
screws Do not glue the cockpit

(A)

Main

Gear

......

.1

(B) Rubber Shock Absorber. ..... .1

(C)

4mmx30mm

Screw

.......

.2
(D) 4mm

Washer

.......

.4

(E) 4mm Nut .... ...... .6

(F)

4mm Nylon

Nut..........

.2
(G) Wheel

.............

.2

(H) Wheel Pants . . .2
(1) 4mmx40mm Screw . . .2
(J)

3mmx12mm Screw

........

.2

(K)

3mm

Washer

.........

.2

(L) 3mm Nut .......... .2

(M) Plastic Collar ..... ..... .2

(3) Trail fit the canopy to the cockpit If necessary, trim for a perfect fit Apply a thin

bead of Cyanoacrylate glue to the cockpit and attach and hold the canopy until

(1) Remove the cockpit and the wing Place the two 4mmx40mm screws with the

4mm washers into the two landing gear holes that are located inside of the front

fuselage section

(4) Apply the black striping tape to the edge around the canopy.

(2) Thread two 4mm nuts onto the two screws and tighten Next place the rubber

shock absorber over the screws.

-8-

(3) Now place the main gear (angled side facing back) over the screws and secure

it with two 4mm nylon nuts NOTE tighten the nuts all the way and then
loosen them both one turn This will give the gear the correct shock absorbing
qualities

(6) Place the 3mm screw/washer into the top hole of the wheel pants from the

inside And then attach it to the top hole of the main gear using the 3mm nut

(4) Next take the two wheel pants and drill two holes in each one The first hole

should be at the indent (4mm in diameter) The second should be 3/8 above
the first and smaller (3mm diameter)

(7) Flare open the pants and insert the wheel assembly Install the 4mm nut and

tighten holding the inside nut with needle nose pliers

(5) Arrange the above parts as shown and then assemble together Do this twice

Place screw locking compound on the threads when installing the nuts

(8) Make sure that both wheels rotate freely If they do not trim away the plastic as

needed Or if need be, loosen the nuts unscrew the wheel screw, and
retighten

-9-

ENGINE INSTALLATION

(A)

Engine Mount

...............................

.1

(B)

4mmx20mm

Screws

..............................

.4

(C)

Mounting

Plates

..............................

.2

(D)

4mmx15mm

Screws

.............................

.4

(E)

4mm

Washers

.................................

.4

(F)

Lock Washers

.................................

.4

(G)

3.5mm

Screw

.................................

.4

(H)

3.5mm

Nuts

..................................

.4

(3) Hold each mounting plate under one engine mount as shown (Thick side

towards the engine ) Line up the mark with the front hole of the engine mount.
Mark the plates where the engine mounting holes are.

(1) Install the engine mount to the fuselage using (4) 4mmx20mm screws Note

the direction the mount is installed for proper engine positioning Also use
screw locking compound on the screw threads.

(4) Drill two 3.5mm holes in each mounting plate at the marks.

(2) Make a mark 1/2" to 5/8" back from the hole on one end of each mounting

plate using a sharp knife NOTE: When mounting the engine, the thicker
sides of the plates should be mounted facing the engine

(5) Mount the

plates

to the engine using

the

3.5mm

screws and lock washers

up
from the bottom as shown. Next apply screw locking compound to the screw
threads and tighten on the 3.5mm nuts. Now do this to both sides.

-10-

(6) Now mount the engine to the fuselage Use (4) 4mmx15mm screws with the

(4) 4mm washers. Be sure to use screw locking compound on the threads.

(2) Put the self tapping screw in the center hole from the large end and tighten it

only a couple of turns.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

(A) Fuel Tank ................................... .1

(B) Clunk

.....................................

.1

(C)

Silicone

Tubing

................................

.1

(D)

Fuel

Pipe

...............................

.3

(1 extra)

(E)

Plastic

Disc (Large)

...............................

.1

(F)

Plastic

Disc (Small)

...............................

.1

(G) 3mmx 18mm

Self

Tapping

Screw.

.......................

.1

(H) Rubber Plug

.................................

.1

(I)

Neoprene Ring

.................................

.1

(J)

Balsa Tank

Support

...............................

.1

(3) Attach the silicone tubing to the centered fuel pipe and attach the clunk to the

other end.

(1) Install two fuel pipes through the rubber plug. One should be halfway through,

the other should be 2/3 through as shown. Next place the two plastic discs

onto each side. The large one should be on the outside.

(4) Carefully bend up the other fuel pipe so it will just touch the inside top of the

fuel tank.

-11-

(5) Attach the complete fuel tank cap to the tank Make sure that the bent pipe is

pointing to the top Slide the cap on until the lip on the fuel tank is in the
groove of the cap. Then tighten the screw.

(8) Install the fuel tank from the inside of the fuselage with the fuel lines facing

front Slide the tank into its mount and up into the hole in front of the fuselage
Make sure that the fuel tubing is through the hole.

(6) Glue the neoprene ring to the tank with silicone sealer Attach two pieces of

fuel tubing (6" each) to the pipes. One is for the carburetor the other is for the
pressure tap on the muffler

(9) Epoxy the tank support to the inside of the front fuselage Once dry apply a

heavy bead of silicone sealer in between the support and the tank.

RADIO INSTALLATION

(A)

Aileron

Horn

.........

2

(B) Wood Push Rods

........

2
(C) Aileron Control Rods (Short) ... 2

(D) Control Rod (Long) .... 3

(E) Control Rod (Short-Bent) . . . . 2

(F)

Shrink

Tubing

..........

1

(G) Throttle Control Rod (Long) ... 1

(H) Snap Clevis ..... 2

(I)

Push Rod

Exits

........

3

(J)

Clevis

Retainer

Tubing

......

1

(K) Throttle

Tube . .........

1

(7) Put a bead of silicone sealer on the top of the neoprene ring.

-12-

(1) Check the fit of your aileron servo in the aileron servo tray You may have to

trim away some of the servo tray for a good fit Install the grommets onto the
servo and fasten it to the wing using the screws provided with the radio system
Be sure to leave the wire outside

(4) Attach the clevises to the aileron horns and slide on the retaining tubes After

checking the neutral position of the aileron servo and ailerons, put a mark on
the push rods where the servo arm holes are

(2) Screw the aileron horns onto the aileron control arms Trim the wing mounting

brace as needed for full aileron movement

(5) At the mark, bend each push rod at a right angle

(6) Cut the push rods 6mm from the bend

(3) Screw two snap clevises half way up the threads on the aileron control rods

Next, cut two pieces of the clevis retaining tubing and slide them onto the rods

-13-

(7) Attach the rods to the servo arm using the rod clevis NOTE You may have to

use a different style servo horn for more throw as shown

(10) Install the three remaining servos into the tray using grommets and screws Be

sure that the servos are positioned correctly Next mount the radio switch
NOTE Make sure that the servo wires all run forward so they are easily
accessible

(8) Connect the aileron servo to the receiver and check the movement of the

ailerons Make sure that both ailerons are neutral when the servo is neutral
Adjust the clevises as needed

(11) We suggest installing an external switch mount so that the radio system can

easily be turned on and off from the outside without taking the wing off (The
Dubro #203 Kwik Switch Mount works well)

(9) Trial fit the servos into the fuselage and trim the tray as needed for a good fit (12) Assemble the rudder and elevator control rods using the parts above

-14-

(13) Bend two of the long rods as shown for the elevator and one of the rods for the

rudder

(16) Assemble the push rod as shown Place the two short (pre bent) rods into one

end of each rod with the single grooves Slide a piece of shrink tubing over
each rod and heat with a heat gun or a lighter to shrink the tubing for a tight fit
Place the elevator rods into the double grooved end of one of the rods

(14) Drill a 1/16" hole 2" from the ends (2 holes 1/16" apart on one end of one

rod) of both wood push rods and with a hobby knife Carefully cut straight
grooves from the holes to the ends Only cut a groove on one side of each end,
except for one end of one rod (the one with two holes) For this one end, make
a groove on both side

(17) Next, do the same with the other rod Make sure that each rod fits in a groove

(15) Cut 4 equal (about 2" each) pieces of the white shrink tubing

(18) Punch out the three rod exits at the tail and insert the rudder push rod into the

fuselage from the front and then through the bottom exit on the right side Do
the same with the elevator rod but put those through the top two holes It may
be necessary to bend the rods to fit

-15-

(19) Use PlastiZap and glue the three plastic push rod exits to the fuselage

(22) Install the plastic tubing through the hole in the firewall to the servo tray Epoxy

the tube where it goes in

(20) Check to make sure that the rods will easily move in and out with little

resistance You may have to bend the rods slightly for a perfect fit (We will
connect the rods to the servos after the tail assembly )

(23) Make a "Z" bend on one end of the throttle control rod and insert the opposite

end into the tube

(21) Use the throttle control rod and the white throttle tube for the engine linkage

Lightly sand the plastic tube so the epoxy will adhere to it

(24) Connect the servos to the receiver and battery and center all radio controls

(including the throttle stick and move the servo horns so they are in line with
the servo as shown After they are centered pull the throttle stick back down
(low throttle) Install the straight servo horns

-16-

(25) Connect the "Z" bend to the engine throttle arm. It may be necessary to

remove the arm from the engine for easier installation.

(28) Next, at the marked point, make another "Z" bend, cut off the excess and

attach it to the servo arm. For easy adjustments, an easy connect can be used
here. (Dubro #121 E-Z Connectors work well.)

(26) Epoxy the white tube to the tube guide.

(29) Check for proper radio operation of the throttle. Make sure that the carburetor

will move from low to high completely.

ASSEMBLY OF THE TAIL SECTION

(27) From the inside, pull back the throttle control rod so the carburetor is closed.

Now, mark the rod where it crosses the throttle servo horn (in low position).

(A) Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab) .... .1

(B) Vertical Fin ............ .1

(C)

Rudder . ............

.1

(D)

1/8"

Plywood Wedge

......

.1

(E) Stab Root Cover (Plastic) ..... .1

(F)

Stab.

Supports

...........

.2
(G)

Plastic

Disc

............

.4
(H)

Brass

Sleeve

...........

.2
(I)

2mmx15mm

Screw

........

.2

(J)2mm Nut ............. .2

(K)

2mm

Washer

...........

.4

(L)

Tail Wheel

........

1

(M) Tail Gear

.............

.1

(N) Tail Control

Arm

.........

.1

(0)

Springs

.............

.2

(P)

Brass

Arms

............

.2

(Q) Spring Steel Strip (Long) ..... .1

(R) 3mmx12mm Self Tapping Screw . .2
(S) 3mmx5mm Screw . . 2
(T)

Wheel Collar

.......

1
(U) Wheel Collar Screw 1
(V)

Brass

Collars . .......

2

.17-

(1) Test fit the 1/8" plywood wedge into the tail end of the fuselage. If there is a

good fit, epoxy it in place making sure that it is even with the fuselage sides.
NOTE: It may be necessary to trim away some wood or glue to make the
wedge fit flush.

(4) Next take a piece of string and attach it with a pin to the top center of the

fuselage. Make sure that the stabilizer is centered and stretch the ring to the
corner of the elevator. Adjust the positioning of the stabilizer so that both
corners are the same length when moving the string from side to side.

(2) Trim away part of the plastic rear cover to allow proper fit of the horizontal

stabilizer.

(5) Next, remove the stabilizer and apply epoxy to the wedge. Reinstall the

stabilizer and re-center like before.

(3) Install the main wing. Next place the horizontal stabilizer onto the tail Hold it

on and visually see if the wing and stabilizer are parallel. If not sand the higher
side of the stabilizer mount until the stabilizer is parallel.

(6) Once the horizontal stabilizer epoxy has cured trial fit the vertical fin (without

the rudder) on top of the horizontal stabilizer. Center the fin so it is straight in
line with the fuselage and 90 ° to the stabilizer. Draw a line on both sides of the
fin as shown.

-18-

(7) Next, apply epoxy to the top of the horizontal stabilizer and re-position the fin

between the lines. Make sure that the fin is still 90° to the stabilizer. Do the
next step before the glue sets.

(10) After the glue has completely set, assemble the tail wheel section shown. The

wheel should be straight in line with the strip as should be the tail control arms.
Attach the wheel collar to hold the wheel on.

(8) While the epoxy is still wet. position the plastic stabilizer root cover over the fin.

Double check the positioning of the fin after doing this.

(11) Carefully turn over the airplane and attach the 3mmx12mm self-tapping screws

into the center of the fuselage so that the end of spring steel strip is 2 1/2" from

the

end.

(9) When satisfied with the fin positioning, apply Cyanoacrylate glue to the

underside edge of the stabilizer root cover and install in place.

(12) Now take the stabilizer supports and bend the ends as shown above.

-19-

(13) Attach the two supports onto the fuselage with a 3mmx12mm self tapping

screw Make sure that the tail wheel assembly is straight

(16) Next, drill a 2mm hole about 1" deep at 1 1/8" from the bottom of the

rudder The hole should be straight in from the front edge

(14) Position the supports straight out (90°) to the fuselage and attach Use the

included hardware and drill 2mm holes for mounting

(17) Notch a small groove (1/8" deep) from the hole down to the bottom for the

tail control arm

(15) Trial fit the rudder onto the vertical fin Notice where the bottom hinge meets

the fuselage and make a slot in the tail where the rudder hinge needs to be with
an X Acto knife

(18) Place a small amount of epoxy on the hinges, in the groove and on the end of

the tail control arm (It is a good idea to place some petroleum jelly onto the
hinge center joint (point of movement) to keep out any epoxy

20-

(19) Carefully position the tail control rod into the hole and the groove. Wipe off any

excess epoxy and then insert the hinges into the slots. Wipe off any excess

epoxy from the hinges and check for free operation. Let cure.

(2) Using PlastiZap again, glue the angled mounting plates, one on each side, on

the two elevator halves as shown.

CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION

(A)

Control

Horns

.................................

.3

(B) Back Plates . ..................................

.3

(C) Mounting Plates (Rectangled).......................... .2

(D) Mounting Plates (Angled)............................ .4

(E)

Brass Tubes

................................

.6
(F)

2mmx20mm

Screws

..............................

.6
(G) Clevis Retainer

Tube

..............................

.1

(H)

Rod

Clevis

...................................

.3

(3) Using the control horns as a guide, center and mark two holes for drilling on all

three mounting plates. The horns will then be mounted — two underneath the

elevator and one on the right side of the rudder (as viewed from the rear).

(1) Glue (use PlastiZap) the rectangular mounting plates to the rudder so that they

are centered, one

on

each

side,

over

the

tail

control

arm

that is

"inside"

the

rudder.

(4) Drill out 3mm holes for the three horns. Make sure that you drill straight

through to the other side.

21

(5) Install the six brass tubes into the holes

(8) Screw on the plastic snap clevises to the 3 push rods coming out of the

fuselage Screw them on half way up the threads

(6) Mount the control horns to the surfaces with the 2mmx20mrn screws Pass the

screws through the horn, next through the tubes and finally thread them into
the back plates See the picture for proper positioning

(9) Attach the respective control rods to each horn Use the middle hole of the

horn Turn on the radio system and adjust the clevises for centered control
surfaces

(7) Cut the clevis retaining tube so that you have three 3/16" tubes.

(10) Align the rods over the servo horns and make a mark where they intersect

Make sure that the control surfaces are in neutral (center position) before
marking

-22-

(11) Next, make a 90° bend downwards at the mark and cut-off the excess so that

there is only 5/16" of rod after the bend.

(1) Epoxy the small mounting brace to the top of the firewall Fill any gap with

epoxy.

(12) Attach the rods to the servos using the rod clevises as shown in the above

drawing. You may need to enlarge the holes.

(2) Trim away some of the plastic from under the front of the fuselage where

shown.

COWL AND PROP INSTALLATION

(A)

Cowl

......................................

.1

(B)

Cowl Brace . ..................................

.1

(C)

3mmx8mm

Self Tapping Screw

........................

.3

(D)

Spinner

.... .............................

.1

(E)

Spinner Back

Plate

...............................

.1

(F)

3mmx 12mm Self

Tapping

Screw

. .......................

.2

(in spinner)

(G)

Mounting

Block

................................

.1

(3) Epoxy the cowl brace onto the front of the fuselage. Make sure that the beveled

ends angle down in line with the fuselage. Connect fuel lines.

-23-

(4) Install the muffler onto the engine Trial fit the cowl onto the fuselage so that

the engine crankshaft and drive washer protrude out of the front

(7) Drill a 2mm hole at each point and attach the cowl using three 3mmx8mm self

tapping screws

(5) Trim as needed so that the engine muffler will exit Now make two holes in the

side and the top where the cylinder head and needle valve are located for easy

accessibility

(8) Remove the crankshaft nut and washer and install the spinner back plate onto

the shaft

(6) Slide the cowl onto the fuselage and make three holes (1 on top and 1 on each

side) where the mounting block and cowl brace are located

(9) Install a 10x6 prop and washer onto the shaft and tighten the nut Make sure

the prop is positioned so the spinner will line up over the prop

-24-

(10) Install the spinner with the two 3mmx12mm self tapping screws Attach the

cowl decals to each side

(3)

Drill a small

(1/16")

hole into the

left

side

of

the fuselage under the wing and

drill a hole at the top of the vertical fin

RECEIVER AND BATTERY INSTALLATION

(1) Hook up the servos and wrap the receiver and battery in natural foam rubber to

protect it from vibration (Goldberg #481 Foam Rubber 1/4" works well) Use

the aileron extension for Channel 1

(4) Make a small knot 6" from the receiver and route the antenna wire out through

this hole and up through the hole in the tail

(2) Install the (battery first) into the front of the fuselage as shown and then the

receiver on top

(5) Use the Antenna retainer and secure the wire to the tail

.25-

SERVO THROWS CENTER OF GRAVITY

The amount of throw that the control surfaces have is critical if you want a properly
responsive plane Measure the throws as shown above They should be

Balance the plane using the mark on the side of the fuselage It should balance at this
point See below

Each way

3/16"

Total

3/8"

Ailerons
Elevator 9/16" 1-18"
Rudder 1 3/8" 2 3/4"

If not, move the clevis to a different hole or use a larger servo horn

PRE-FLIGHT CHECK

1 Clean the dust dirt and oil off of the surface of the airplane
2 Check to make sure all nuts bolts and screws are securely fastened
3 Check all control surfaces to see if they are properly attached

4 Check the range of the radio system as the manufacturer recommends
5 Check that all controls move smoothly and in the proper directions

6 Check the level of charge in the transmitter and receiver batteries
7 Check that the area being used is free of obstacles and debris
8 Check the frequencies currently in use at the field and in your area
9 Check the level of the fuel tank to be sure it is full
10 Double check the radio operation

AFTER-FLIGHT MAINTENANCE

• Remove all excess fuel from the fuel tank, as this fuel can become jellylike
and cause clogging of fuel lines, as well as clogging the engine's carburetor
valves

• Always use after run oil in the engine to prevent corrosion

• Check and double check that the transmitter and receiver switches are
switched to the off positions

• Wipe off the excess oil that will collect on the wing and fuselage Use a
light duty cleaner to help cut through the oil

• Remove fresh fuel from the surface of the plane immediately, as different
brands can cause clouding of the surface

• Replace any bent marred or dinged props as they can fly apart at any time

when the engine is running

• Completely check the airplane for damage to the wings, landing gear,
covering and repair as needed before your next flight

REPAIR

If damage should occur wipe the broken area clean with a clean rag to remove all
debris Use epoxy glue to repair Do not use Cyanoacrylate adhesive near any foam
parts as it will deteriorate the foam

TRANSPORTING CHECKLIST

Before leaving for the flying field go through the checklist This will help prevent you
from forgetting to take things with you

Make sure radio batteries are all charged
Make sure the transmitter and receiver are on the same frequency

Glow plug clip and fully charged 1/12 volt battery

Fuel and fuel pump or fuel bulb
Extra props and prop wrench

Screw drivers knife pliers and wrenches
Epoxy and something to mix it on
Paper towels
Cleaner to remove residue on the plane

10 Extra glow plugs
11 Electric starter or chicken stick

CENTER OF GRAVITY (C.G)

The center of gravity is a very important aspect of setting up the airplane properly
It will control a large part of what type of flying characteristics your plane will have
If it s nose heavy the airplane will try to dive and the elevator will be sluggish to
respond to your control inputs If the plane is tail heavy the airplane will be very
sensitive to the elevator and possibly very uncontrollable The center of gravity
should be checked with an empty fuel tank to be accurate The range in which the
airplane should balance is marked with a black dot on the side of the fuselage
With standard radio equipment the plane may balance within this range If it does
not balance within this range, feel free to add weight to the nose or tail as you need
to obtain a proper C G

IMPORTANT SAFETY MEASURES

Receiver Battery

1 Always make sure the receiver battery pack is fully charged before flying

2 Wrap the receiver battery in 1/2"' soft foam rubber to protect it from engine

vibration and shock A rubberband may be used to hold the foam around the
battery pack It is also suggested to place the battery pack in a plastic bag to
protect it from fuel

3 If using NiCd batteries follow the instruction that came with your radio for

charging and care of the batteries

4 Before the first flight of the day check all the wires on the battery pack and

switch for corrosion or broken wires

5 Do a pre flight check (page 28) of your radio system each flying session

Receiver

1 Do not cut the receiver antenna This may affect the sensitivity of the receiver
2 Carefully wrap the receiver in foam and a plastic bag like the receiver battery
3 Make sure that all the servos are plugged into the correct receiver terminal

Servos

1 Make sure that all the control surfaces move smoothly without binding When

installing the push rods the servo must be able to move through its complete
range of rotation

2 If the servo buzzes when the transmitter stick is moved to its limit the servo

still has some movement left This can damage the servo and drain the battery
which may cause loss of control of the plane and a crash

FLIGHT SAFETY

• If this airplane happens to be your first radio controlled airplane we strongly
suggest that you ask a skilled pilot to help you fly it You should also suggest
to him to take the maiden flight to see what problems (if any) that need to be
worked out There will be enough to worry about on your first flight without
having to worry about whether or not it is properly set up

• Fly in an open field without any obstructions For example trees power lines
buildings crowds or people etc are obstacles that the plane may hit and
cause damage

• Fly the model at a reduced throttle until you get to know the flight character
istics

When adjusting the needle valve just prior to flight hold the plane at a 45°

• nose up attitude full open throttle and adjust the throttle for top performance
as the manufacturers instructions suggest

-26-

STARTING ENGINE

Engine Maintenance

Always check the engine mounting bolts, muffler, glow plug,
propeller and spinner, etc , before attempting to start the engine.
Check for loose bolts, nuts or screws which may come off when the
engine is running and cause serious damage Always check the area
in which you will be flying or just running the engine Check for
possible hazards, such as loose rags, rocks, tools, etc., lying on the
ground which may get caught in the prop

If you intend on starting the engine by hand flipping the prop,
always use a chicken stick, and be sure to check the position of the
prop It is most comfortable when it is at the 2 o'clock position when
starting the compression stroke When you are using an electric 12V
starter, the position of the prop is of no concern.

Engine Break-In and Starting

Most manufacturers recommend that the engine be broken-in on
a tesi stand We also recommend that this be done according to
manufacturer's instructions If a test stand is unavailable the engine
may be broken-in on the plane Breaking-in the engine allows the
parts to "seat" next to each other

1. Remove the carburetor fuel line and the muffler pressure line
from the muffler

2. Fill the fuel tank through the carburetor fuel line When the
tank is full the fuel will come out of the pressure line

3 Reconnect the tubing

4. Follow your manufacturer's instructions according to needle
valve settings.

5. Turn the radio on and open the throttle to full open Place
your finger over the air intake on the carburetor while turning
the prop counter-clockwise a few times Notice the fuel line.
If any fuel is being sucked into the carburetor, turn the prop a
few more times If no fuel is reaching the carburetor, recheck
the fuel line plumbing

6. Reduce the throttle to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle for starting.

7. Using a starting stick (chicken stick) and holding the fuselage
firmly, quickly flip the prop in the counter-clockwise direction.
Do not attach the glow plug clip in this step This will prevent
the engine from being flooded and will make starting much
easier Do not use bare hands/fingers for starting, as the kick
back from a model engine can be strong enough to cause
severe injury

8 Attach the glow plug clip at this time

9. With quick flipping movements, flip the prop in the counter­clockwise direction If the engine does not try to start in the
first few tries, double check your procedure and keep trying

10.Once the engine has started, listen carefully to the sound of
the engine The sound of the engine will tell you how the
engine is running, if you know what to listen for A lower­tone, popping sound is the sound of a rich running engine

As you turn the needle valve in, the popping sounds should
decrease and the pitch of the engine should rise The
optimum needle valve setting will depend on your engine.
Again check with the manufacturer's recommendations for
engine break-in procedures and valve settings

11. If you continue to have problems with the performance or
starting of your engine, refer to the engine trouble shooting
guide shown below

ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

SYMPTOM

The engine does not start

The propeller is difficult to rotate.

The engine fires but does not start.

The engine starts but does not
sound or run good

POSSIBLE CAUSE

Glow plug battery is making poor contact.

Battery is dead or has a very low voltage

Bad glow plug (burned up or deteriorated

filament)

Improper air/fuel mixture intake.

Engine is flooded with fuel.

Engine may be flooded.

Fuel is not reaching the carburetor.

Improper break-in procedures

Loose plug or bad plug.

SOLUTION

Check to see if the battery is wired correctly and to see if
the clip is making good contact with the plug

Replace or recharge the battery and check to make sure
the battery can glow the plug red hot prior to startir g

Replace the glow plug.

Prime the engine through the carburetor air

Close the needle valve completely and try to start the
engine It should start and then quickly stop Reset the
needle valve and continue starting.

Remove the glow plugs and rotate the engine until only a
mist of fuel remains in the cylinder Replace the plug and

continue.

Check the level of fuel in the tank Recheck fuel. Open
the needle valve a half turn or so and continue

Check the break in procedure and repeat
Replace the plug and/or tighten the old plug.

27-

YOUR FIRST FLIGHT WHERE TO FLY

Before starting the engine check and make sure all screws are
tight that the hinges have not come loose, the control surfaces move
in the right directions according to your input on the transmitter, and
nobody is on your frequency

1 Start the engine and set the needle valve following the engine

manufacturer's instruction

2 Hold the plane tightly and move the throttle to full speed Pick

the plane up and hold it at a 45-60° nose up for 10-15
seconds The engine should run smoothly If it starts to die the
engine is too lean and the needle valve needs readjusting
needs readjusting

3 Taxi the plane to the end of the runway and point the nose into

the wind

4 Check that the control surfaces respond to the transmitter

commands

5 Gently advance the throttle to full power
6 Gently steer left or right as necessary to obtain a straight

take-off

7 After the plane has gained speed, gently pull back on the

elevator stick Do not allow the plane to climb too steeply

8 Keep the wings level and reduce the throttle some to obtain a

gentle climb

9 To turn gently move the aileron stick to the side and pull back

on the elevator If too much aileron is used the plane will bank
too steeply Make a wide gentle turn When the turn is

completed return the sticks to the center
10 After the plane passes by you make another wide 180 ° turn
11 When learning to fly it is easier to control the plane by facing

the direction the plane is going and looking over your shoulder

at it

12 Fly in a figure eight making left and right turns at the end of the

straights

13 Decide where you are going to land and gently turn into the

wind 500 800 feet downwind
14 When you know you can reach the landing area, reduce the

throttle You want the plane to gently descent towards the

landing area Keep the wings level and do no allow the nose to

rise This can produce a stall (a lack of lift) and the plane will

dive steeply

15 If the plane is going to be short of the landing area apply some

power to reach the landing area If the plane is too high apply

power and climb back up to some altitude and set up to land

again With practice you will be flying with more confidence
and able to make nice smooth landings on a runway The only
way to become a good pilot is to practice

If you are a novice pilot local area clubs have been formed and
are very willing to help you with any questions you may have Many
of the clubs even have club trainer airplanes that they will actually
teach you to fly with This helps prevent disappointing crashes on
your first flights Addresses of local area clubs can be located from
your local area hobby shop and/or by writing to Academy of Model
Aviation, 1810 Samuel Morse Drive, Reston, VA 22090

Assembled Diabolo .40

PRE-FLIGHT RADIO CHECK

With the batteries fully charged, turn on the transmitter and

receiver Move the control sticks a few times to make sure the control

surfaces move freely and proportionally with the movements of the

control stick Check that all the control responses are correct When
viewed from behind move the aileron control stick to the right The
right aileron should go up move the elevator stick down the elevator
should go up When the rudder control stick is moved to the left the
tailwheel should move to the left Also check that the throttle opens
up to full power when the throttle control stick is moved up or
forward

Before flying each day perform a range check of your radio
equipment as specified by the radio manufacturer As a general rule
for testing, follow the guidelines to the right

• Do all testing in an open are away from cars and buildings They

may cause signal interference

• Collapse the transmitter antenna so it is 6" to 8" long

• Set the plane so that the rudder is facing you

• Turn on the transmitter and receiver

• Walk away from the plane while moving the control sticks while
watching the control surfaces The surfaces should move when the
control stick is moved

• Most radios should have a range on the ground (antenna collapsed)
of 50 to 100 feet (see radio owner's manual) If the radio does not
pass this test the plane should not be flown and the radio sent for
repair.

ENTIRE CONTENTS © COPYRIGHT 1989

,INC.

-28-