Hobbico AirVista Assembly Instructions Manual

™

Innovative Prebuilt R/C Trainer Aircraft

• The video “Getting to the
Flying Field” makes mastering
Radio Control even easier –
watch it before getting started

• Builds with 2 tools in 1 evening

• We guarantee your success

Assembly Instructions

© Copyright 1998 HCAZ1176 for HCAA2200 V 1.0

2

We are so confident that the Hobbico AirVista is the best almost-ready-to-fly trainer
available that we make this guarantee: You will successfully learn how to fly with the
Hobbico AirVista or we will replace it with your choice of another Hobbico trainer of
up to equal value. All we ask is that you learn under the supervision of a qualified,
club-designated instructor, follow normal safety precautions, fly at an AMA­chartered club and construct the kit as outlined in the included instruction manual.

If for some reason, you find the design and/or workmanship of the AirVista is not
conducive to learning to fly under the conditions outlined above, contact Hobby
Services, Monday through Friday, 9AM to 5PM central time to request a AirVista
replacement verification form. This form will verify that all

terms and conditions of the

flight guarantee have been followed and signatures

from you and your AMA-club

qualified instructor have been obtained.

This guarantee is effective for 60 days after you receive the kit and does not cover
incidental items (engines, radio equipment and hardware, etc.). The kit, along with
the replacement verification form and original purchase receipt must be returned to
Hobby Services for inspection no later than 60 days after receipt of the kit. Hobbico
reserves the right to verify all information provided. The AirV ist a Success Guarantee
is only good for kits purchased and flown in the United States. Replacement trainer
kit options are limited to flat-bottom wing

trainer models available from Hobbico and

only one replacement kit per customer.

Contact Hobby Services at:

Hobby Services

Attn: Service Department

1610 Interstate Drive

Champaign, IL 61821-1067

[phone]

SUCCESS GUARANTEE INFORMATION

™

3

Thank you for purchasing the prebuilt AirVista Trainer. You
have taken the first step into the exciting hobby of Radio
control. You are about to build in just one evening what took
aviation pioneers years – a powered machine that flies. The
AirVista was created especially for first time radio control
modelers. This easy to build, easy to fly model will help you
develop skills to take you anywhere you want to go in this
exciting hobby.

Please take some time to watch the video and read through
this assembly manual to familiarize yourself with the AirVista
kit and assembly methods.

Your AirVista is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working
model that functions very much like an actual airplane.
Because of its realistic performance, the AirVista, if not
assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury
to yourself or spectators and damage property.

To make your R/C modeling experience totally enjoyable,
we

recommend that you get help from an experienced,

knowledgeable modeler for your first flights. You will learn

faster and avoid risking your model before you’re truly ready to
solo. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs
in you area whose membership includes qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2500 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them, instructor
training programs and insured newcomer training are
available.

Contact the AMA at:

You only need two tools to build the AirVista:

❏ (1) Medium Phillips Screwdriver (#1)
❏ (1) Pliers

For convenience, these additional tools will make the job a
little easier:

❏ (1) Hobby knife with #11 blade
❏ (1) Adjustable wrench
❏ (1) Large Phillips Screwdriver (#2)
❏ (1) Scissors
❏ (1) Diagonal Cutter

❏ 4-channel radio system with 4 servos
❏ We recommend the Top Flite

®

Power Point®brand of props

(see the engine manufacturer’s recommendations)

❏ .40-size two-stroke engine

NO GLUE REQUIRED!

ACCESSORIES REQUIRED TO

FINISH YOUR AIRVISTA

OPTIONAL TOOLS

REQUIRED TOOLS

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Office: [phone]

Toll Free: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

Web Site: http://www.modelaircraft.org

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF &

OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

O.S.®.40 LA
OSMG0040

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

4

1 (1) Right Wing Panel
2 (1) Left Wing Panel
3 (1) Steel Wing Joiner Rod
4 (1) Plywood Center Rib Assembly
5 (1) Fuselage
6 (1) Fin/Rudder Assembly
7 (1) Stab/Elevator Assembly
8 (2) 4mm Landing Gear Wire
9 (1) 4mm Nose Gear Strut
10 (3) Wheels
11 (4) Plastic Dowel Caps
12 (2) Wing Dowels (Wood)
13 (1) Plywood Servo Tray
14 (1) 1.5mm Wire for Nose Gear Steering
15 (1) Spinner Assembly
16 (1) Steering Arm
17 (14) #64 Rubber Bands
18 (1) Foam Sheet

Hardware included with the kit:

(7) 3 x 5mm Screws
(1) 3 x 8mm Screw
(4) Nylon Torque Rod Horns
(4) Nylon Servo Connectors
(5) Nylon Clevis
(1) Fuel Tubing
(5) Clevis Retainer
(2) Brass Pushrod Connector
(2) Nylon Retainers For Brass Pushrod Connectors
(2) 2-56 Wire Pushrod for Elevator/Rudder
(2) 2-56 Wire Pushrod for Aileron
(1) 2-56 Wire Pushrod for Throttle
(1) Plywood Control Throw Gauge

(7) Metal Wheel Collars
(1) White Decal Strip
(1) Window Decal Sheet
(12) 2.5 x 10mm Sheet Metal Screws
(4) #4 x 5/8" Sheet Metal Screws
(2) 4-40 Lock Nuts
(1) #48 Drill Bit
(2) 4-40 x 1/8" Phillips Head Screw
(6) #4 Washers
(1) Fuel Tank Assembly
(2) Flat Landing Gear Straps
(4) 4 x 20mm Screws
(4) 4mm Washers
(4) 4mm Lock Washers
(4) 4mm Nuts
(1) Metal “T” Pin
(1) Video “Getting To The Flying Field”
(1) Small Rubber Band
(2) Metal Landing Gear Straps

Replacement Parts:

In the event that you need replacement parts, contact your hobby

dealer and ask for the following:
Right Wing Panel (HCAA3546)

Left Wing Panel (HCAA3548)
Aileron Servo Tray and Wing Joiner Rod (HCAA3550)
Fuse and Servo Tray (HCAA3552)
Tail Assembly (HCAA3554)
Landing Gear with Strap and Wheels (HCAA3556)
Cowl (HCAA3558)
Turtle Deck (HCAA3560)

1

2

5

9

3

4

11

12

17

13

18

11

14

10

15

15

16

6

7

8

AirVista Parts List

Take a moment to familiarize yourself with the parts of the AirVista.

If you need help or have any questions

during assembly, please contact us at:

[phone]

or e-mail us at

[e-mail]

See more of our products at

www.hobbico.com

Need Help?

These items will not be

used in this kit:

5

Install the rubber grommets with brass
inserts to each of the four servos.

NNoottee::

Your system may look slightly

different. Consult your radio instructions.

CC..

Turn off your receiver switch followed by
the transmitter. Your servos are now
properly centered.

NNoottee::

If you bump or move your servos

during assembly, simply repeat this step.

SECTION 1

SECTION 1

Radio System Preparation

STEP 1: Unpack your Radio System

STEP 2: Connect your Radio System

BB..

Install the Brass Pushrod
Connectors onto

TTWWOO

of the arms.

CC..

Squeeze the nylon retainers in place
using your pliers.

AA..

From your radio system, select four
arms that look like an “X” or Star and
snap off the sides with your pliers.
(A diagonal cutter works well also).

STEP 3: Choose the Control Arms

AA..

Connect your radio
system and turn it on.

BB..

Position the “trim levers”
and sticks as shown.

ON

Throttle

Receiver
Battery

Servos

Transmitter

Switch

(Off)

Receiver

Brass Connector

Brass Connector (2)

4-40 Screw

4-40 Screw (2)

Nylon Retainer

Nylon Retainer (2)

Actual Size

Elevator

Enlarge

Enlarge

Enlarge

Tip! Hold the drill
bit with a pliers and
turn the arm.

Aileron

Rudder

Throttle

“X” Horn

Remove the wheels.

Charge your radio system following the
manufacturer’s instructions. This is usually
an overnight process.

Your grommets
may install like
one of these.

Throttle Trim

Star Horn

or

DD..

Enlarge the selected holes in the
servo arms using the drill
bit provided.

6

AA..

Connect the three servos to the receiver
according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

BB..

Connect the battery to the receiver switch
harness and the switch to the “battery”
socket on the receiver (the extra wire on the
switch is for charging your system).

CC..

Connect the extension
wire to the aileron socket.

STEP 5: Connect the Servos to the Receiver

Install the remaining
servo in the plywood
aileron servo tray. Note
the orientation and
routing of the
servo wire.

STEP 7: Install the Aileron Servo

STEP 6: Install the Receiver and Battery

AA..

Position the servos
where shown. Note
the orientation.

BB..

Using the screws
that came with
the radio system,
attach the servos
to the tray. Do not
overtighten.

CC..

Attach the servo
arms as shown in
the drawing.

STEP 4: Install the Servos

DD..

Tear or cut the foam
sheet in half and wrap
the receiver and the
receiver battery.

Use two #64 rubber
bands to secure the
receiver to the top and
the battery to the bottom
of the servo tray.

Elevator
Servo

Throttle
Servo

Plywood
Servo Tray

Receiver

Battery

Unwrap the
antenna wire.

Servo Tray

Aileron
Servo

Plywood Aileron
Servo Tray

Rudder
Servo

7

SECTION 2

SECTION 2

Wing Assembly

Assemble the wing together with the
steel rod and small alignment peg.

STEP 2: Assemble the Wing

Apply the white tape around
the center of the wing to hold
the assembly together.

STEP 3: Apply the Tape

Install the nylon torque rod
horns to the Ailerons, Rudder
and Elevator.

Use the “L” shaped plywood
gauge to set the height of the
horns, on each torque rod.

STEP 1: Install the FOUR Torque Rod Horns

Steel Rod

Wing Panel

The servo wire
should exit along the
edge of the servo
tray as shown.

Wing Panel

Alignment Peg

Nylon Torque Rod Horn (4)

Actual Size

1

2

4

AAiilleerroonn

Right Wing
(Upside Down)

Left Wing
(Upside Down)

RRuuddddeerr

Fin

EElleevvaattoorr

Horizontal
Stabilizer

Plywood
Aileron Tray

3

8

SECTION 3

SECTION 3

Fuselage Assembly

Tail and Wing Dowel Installation

Part

Part

The nylon horn
should be towards
the fuselage bottom.

Align the holes in the
fuselage with the holes
in the stab.

Insert the Stabilizer into the Fuselage.

STEP 1: Install the Horizontal Stabilizer

Insert the Fin into the fuselage. Use the
two 4-40 lock nuts along with washers
to hold the tail in place.

STEP 2: Install the Fin

STEP 3: Install the Wing Dowels

Fuselage Bottom

4-40 Lock Nut (2)

#4 Washer (2)

Actual Size

2.5 x 10mm Screw (4)

Actual Size

AA..

Install the
window decals.

B. Use the

screwdriver to
open the
dowel holes.

CC..

Insert the two
wood dowels
into the fuselage.
Install the Plastic
Dowel Caps.

You may need to hold one screw with a pliers
while installing the other side.

Note: Replace page 8 in
the Instruction Manual
with this page.

9

AA..

Insert the Black Nozzle into the Rubber “Stopper.”

BB..

Cut the fuel line to 2-3/4" (70mm) and install it onto the black nozzle and to
the Metal fuel pickup (commonly referred to as the “clunk”).

CC..

Insert the stopper into the tank and tighten the cap. You may need to
lubricate the stopper with skin oil (best found on the sides of your nose) to
help it install easier.

STEP 1: Assemble the Fuel Tank

Fuel Tank and Radio Tray Installation

Part

Part

T

T

wo

wo

CC..

Carefully install the fuel
tank into the fuselage
while pulling the tubing
from the front.

AA..

Insert the fuel tubing
into the holes located
on the firewall.

STEP 2: Install the Fuel Tank

Insert the two longest Pushrods into
the tubes from inside the fuselage.

The longer
of the two
pushrods
goes here.

If the pushrod guides are not pre-installed,
cut the pushrod guides approximately 1/2"
ahead of the bulkhead.

STEP 3: Insert the Pushrods

DD..

Slide the fuel tank in place. Make sure the fuel line
is not pinched during installation. This will cut off
the fuel supply to the engine.

BB..

Attach the tube that
goes through the left
hole to the black
nozzle. Attach the
tube that goes
through the right hole
to the top nozzle on
the tank.

NNoottee::

The
middle nozzle will
not be used.

Cut to 2-3/4” long.

Pushrod

Rubber Stopper

Cap

Black
Nozzle

Clunk

Actual Size

Fuel Line

NNoottee::

“Left” and
“Right” are as
viewed from the rear
of the airplane.

10

BB..

Secure it in place with four #4 x 5/8" screws
and washers.

CC.. NNoottee::

If you bump the servo arms, re-center

them as shown in section 1.

STEP 4: Install the Radio Tray

AA..

Insert the pushrods from the bottom of the servo arms
(for easier installation remove the arms from the servos).

BB..

Install the nylon pushrod retainers.

STEP 5: Hook Up the Servos

Nylon Pushrod Retainer (2)

AA..

Install the radio tray into
the fuselage.

#4 x 5/8” Screw (4)

#4 Washer (4)

Actual Size

Actual Size

Make sure the
servo wires do
not get pinched.

Cut the white
tubes if they are
in the way.

AA..

Install the two remaining clevises with retainers
onto the short pushrod wires.

BB..

Connect the rods using the nylon retainers.

CC..

Adjust the clevises so the ailerons are centered
when the servo is centered.

STEP 8: Install the Aileron Pushrods

CC..

Attach the switch to the

left side of the fuselage.

STEP 7: Attach the Switch

AA..

Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each
wire pushrod. Attach the clevises onto
the threads using the tool provided.

BB..

Make sure the servos do not move.

CC..

Screw the clevises on so that the control
surfaces are centered. Attach the clevises
to the horns.

DD..

Slide the retainers over the
clevises.

STEP 6: Attach the Clevises to the Control Surfaces

Nylon Clevis (2)

Silicone Clevis
Retainer

Nylon Clevis

Silicone Clevis
Retainer

Silicone Clevis
Retainer

Clevis Tool

Antenna Wire

Actual Size

Retainer

Silicone Clevis
Retainer (2)

11

AA..

Position a nylon
strap on

the
antenna wire about
6" away from the
receiver. This is
called “strain

relief.”

BB..

Route the antenna
wire through the
longer slot where
you installed
the switch.

Nylon Strap (1)

Actual Size

12

AA..

Insert the steering pushrod wire through the outer hole in
the nylon steering arm. Slide the wire into the tube so
that it will extend through the brass connector on the
rudder servo.

BB..

Place a 4mm metal collar over the nose gear strut. Slide
the strut in place capturing the steering arm between the
bottom bracket and engine mount.

CC..

Tighten the steering arm screw so the end of the steering
arm is positioned about 3/8" (10mm) from the firewall while
the nose gear is straight.

DD..

From the inside fuselage, tighten the screw to secure the

pushrod to the brass connector.

STEP 1: Install the Steering Hardware

Landing Gear Installation

Part

Part

AA..

Insert the two main landing
gear wires into the slots on the
bottom of the fuselage.

BB..

Secure the landing gear using
two metal straps and four

2.5 x 10mm screws.

CC..

Attach the wheels using the
4mm metal collars with the
3 x 5mm screws.

STEP 2: Install the Main Landing Gear and Wheels

4mm Metal Collar (1)

4mm Metal Collar (6)

3 x 5mm Screw (1)

3 x 5mm Screw (6)

2.5 x 10mm Screw (4)

Metal Strap (2)

3 x 8mm Screw (1)

3 x 8mm Screw

Nylon Steering
Arm

Metal Collar

2.5 x 10mm Screw

3 x 5mm
Screw

3 x 5mm
Screw

Pushrod
Tube

Nose Gear
Strut

3 x 5mm Screw

Pushrod

Use drill bit to
enlarge the
outside hole.

Actual Size

Actual Size

Actual Size

IMPORTANT! Check and
retighten the engine
mount screws.

13

AA..

Attach a clevis with retainer onto the remaining
pushrod wire.

BB..

Insert the wire into the fuselage so that it passes
through the brass connector on the throttle servo.

STEP 2: Install the Throttle Control Linkage

Place the engine onto the engine
mount. Use the plywood gauge
to set the distance from the
firewall. The engine should be
positioned straight or slightly to
the right (NEVER LEFT).

Cut the fuel tubing
so that each tube
sticks out about 6".

Engine Installation

Part

Part

Four

Four

STEP 1: Install the Engine

CC..

Attach the clevis to the
throttle arm and slide the
retainer in place.

4 x 20mm Screw (4)

4 x 20mm Screws

Tip! If installing an O.S.

®

40
LA engine, install the back
two screws with plates first.
Next, slide the engine into
position and install the
front screws. This is because
access is restricted due to
the remote needle valve.

4mm Nut (4)

4mm Nuts

Brass Connector

Carburetor arm

4mm Split Washer (4)

4mm Split Washers

Mounting Plates

Distance Gauge

Position the
engine straight
or slightly right.

Actual Size

Nylon Clevis (1)

Cut the pushrod
tube off to
approximately 1/8"
from the firewall.

Silicone Clevis
Retainer (1)

Actual Size

14

AA..

Position the cowl so the thrust
washer on the engine sticks out
1/8" (3mm). Make sure the
spinner does not contact the
cowl at any point.

STEP 4: Attach the Cowl and Install the Spinner

Attach the fuel tube that
comes out of the “left” hole in
the firewall, to the nozzle on
the carburetor.

Attach the remaining fuel
tubing to the muffler. This is
called the “vent line” or
“muffler pressure line.”

STEP 5: Attach the Fuel Lines

Note: For some
engines, you may
need to trim the
cowl to provide
access to the
needle valve.

BB..

At the holes in the cowl, use
the four 2.5 x 10mm screws to
attach the cowl in place.

If there is a lot of
extra tubing, you
may cut off some of
the excess.

STEP 3: Position the Cowl, Install the Muffler

Work the cowl around the
engine. Install the muffler.

TTIIPP!!!!!!

Position the prop so it is horizontal when you can feel
compression. (This way, if your engine quits in flight, the prop will
stop horizontal, therefore reducing the chance of prop breakage
due to a hard landing.)

Make sure the

prop is tight!

Muffler Pressure tap

To Carburetor

2.5 x 10mm Screw (4)

Thrust
Washer

Actual Size

15

STEP 2: Apply the Decals

STEP 3: Attach the Wing

BB..

Thread the second nylon strap near the end
of the antenna wire. Tie the small rubber
band to the strap.

STEP 1: Attach the Antenna to the Fin

Final Assembly

Part

Part

Five

Five

CC..

Place the rubber band over the pin
head and adjust the strap so there is a
slight amount of tension on the
antenna wire.

AA..

Insert the T- Pin into
the top of the fin just in
front of the plastic tip.

Nylon Strap (1)

Longer
Slot

Strain
Relief

4

4

2

2

IImmppoorrttaanntt!!

Plug the aileron servo wire into

the receiver.
Attach the wing to the Fuselage using twelve

#64 rubber bands. Attach four on each side
and criss-cross the remaining four.

Actual Size

Apply the stripes to the cowl sides.
Wrap the excess inside the back part

of the cowl.
Reinstall the screws.

Temporarily remove the bottom cowl screws.

16

Note: We recommend that you have your instructor help you

with the set up of your radio system.

CHECK THE CONTROL DIRECTIONS

1. Turn on the transmitter and then the receiver. Standing
behind the plane, make the following movements with the
transmitter and observe the control surfaces:

If any of the servo movements are wrong, reverse the servo
direction with the servo reversing switches on the
transmitter.

ADJUST THE THROTTLE

2. For added safety and convenience, the throttle should be
set up so that the engine can be stopped using the throttle
trim. To do this, loosen the pushrod connector screw and move
the throttle pushrod so that the carburetor is completely
closed with the throttle stick and trim lever on the transmitter
fully back. (Note: If the carburetor does not fully close, adjust
the idle stop screw on the carburetor until it will.) Next, tighten
the screw on the pushrod connector. Test the trim lever by
advancing it to full. This will be a fast idle position with the
carburetor barrel open slightly (about 1/32" or .8mm).

Now move the throttle stick forward to full. Make sure that the
carburetor barrel opens all the way. (See sketch.) If it doesn't
open far enough or opens too far (bending the rod) move the
pushrod connector in or out on the servo arm and/or the
carburetor arm to gain or reduce movement. The throw will be
correct when the carburetor barrel will stop fully open at the
same time the throttle stick reaches full. With the throttle set
up properly, you should be able to run the engine with the trim
lever set midway to the full position (adjusted for a smooth but
slow idle). Then when it is time to stop the engine, simply pull
back on the trim to close the carburetor and the engine will
stop running.

ADJUST THE NOSE WHEEL

3. With the radio system on, adjust the steering pushrod at the
rudder servo, so that the nose wheel is straight. Tighten the
screw on the brass connector.

ADJUST THE CONTROL THROWS

4. Check the movement of the control surfaces. Use a ruler to
match our measurements listed below. If your radio features
dual rates, set up both the high and low rates following the
radio system's instructions. If your radio does not have dual
rates, set up the plane using low rates first and increase the
throws as you get familiar with the plane.

Low Rate High Rate

Aileron 1/2" (13mm) up 5/8" (16mm) up

1/2" (13mm) down 5/8" (16mm) down

Elevator 3/8" (10mm) up 1/2" (13mm) up

3/8" (10mm) down 1/2" (13mm) down

Rudder 1" (25mm) left Same as low rate

1" (25mm) right Same as low rate

These are the suggested deflections from center.

RADIO SYSTEM SET-UP

Open Slightly (Idle)

Barrel Fully Open

SECTION 4

SECTION 4

Preparing For Flight

4-CHANNEL RADIO SET-UP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

FRONT WHEEL MOVES RIGHT

CARBURETOR WIDE OPEN

17

If you need more control movement, you can move the nylon
horn closer to the control surface or you can move the rod at
the servo away from the center of the servo horn. If you have
too much movement, reverse the process.

One leading cause of crashes is flying an airplane with its
control throws set differently from those recommended in the
instructions. The Great Planes AccuThrow™lets you quickly
and easily measure actual throws first, so you can make
necessary corrections before you fly . Large, no-slip rubber feet
provide a firm grip on covered surfaces without denting or
marring the finish. Spring tension holds AccuThrow’s plastic
ruler steady by each control surface. Curved to match control
motions, the ruler provides exact readings in both standard or
metric measurements. GPMR2405.

CHECK THE LATERAL BALANCE

Now that you have the model completed, this is a good time to
balance the airplane laterally (side-to-side). Here is how to
do it:

❏ 1. Attach the wing to the fuselage.
❏2. With the airplane sitting level, lif t the model by the engine

propeller shaft and the bottom of the fuselage at the tail (this
may require two people). Do this several times.

❏ 3. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it

means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by attaching
weight to the lighter wing tip. Note: An airplane that has been
laterally balanced will track better in loops and other
maneuvers. Balancing weight is available from your local
hobby dealer.

CHECK THE FORE-AFT BALANCE (CENTER OF GRAVITY)

Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be
omitted! Amodel that is not properly balanced will be unstable
and possibly unflyable.

❏ 1. Accurately mark the balance point on the bottom of the

wing on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is
located 3-3/8” (85mm) back from the leading edge. This is the
balance point at which your model should balance for your first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
balance up to 1/4" (6mm) forward or back to change the flying
characteristics. Moving the balance forward may improve the
smoothness and arrow-like tracking, but it may then require
more speed for takeoff and make it more difficult to slow down
for landing. Moving the balance aft makes the model more
agile with a lighter and snappier “feel”. In any case, please
start at the location we recommend and do not at any time
balance your model outside the recommended range.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the

model installed (ready to fly), and an empty fuel tank, position
your fingertips at the marked balance point.

❏ 3. Lift the model. If the tail drops when you lift, the model is

“tail heavy” and you must add weight* to the nose. If the nose
drops, it is “nose heavy” and you must add weight* to the tail
to balance.

Note: Nose weight may be easily installed by using a Heavy
Spinner Hub or gluing lead weights to the firewall. Tail weight
may be added by using Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on”
lead weights.

*If possible, first attempt to balance the model by changing the
position of the receiver battery and receiver. If you are unable
to obtain good balance by doing so, then it will be necessary
to add lead weights to the nose or tail to achieve the proper
balance point.

BALANCE YOUR MODEL

IMPORTANT!

3-3/8"

(85mm)

CG

18

Improve the flight of your AirVista with the Great Planes C.G.
Machine’s exact balancing. The C.G. Machine’s stable,
“hands-off” operation eliminates the potential for error . It works
with all airplanes weighing up to 40 pounds–regardless

of size or

wingspan. GPMR2400.

If you are a novice, there is one thing that you will need to fly
your AirVista safely that is not furnished with the kit: You will
need a qualified instructor to teach you how to fly. No model
ever made will let you teach yourself to fly safely. It can be
done, but you would be seriously risking more than just the
airplane. To find an instructor, you should join an R/C flying
club. If there is not a club nearby, then you should find an
experienced model pilot who is willing to help you. The chosen
instructor should fly well enough to allow you to concentrate on
your own flying. If you are worried about your instructor
crashing your model, you will not be able to concentrate on
learning to fly. After you have found an instructor, you should
spend some time just talking about what you will be trying to
learn. They should inspect the model to be certain that it is
ready to fly. Listen to them and learn from their experience.

Now that you have a good model and an instructor that you
can trust, you can go out and start learning to fly. You can
expect to be very nervous at first, and will make some
mistakes. There will be several instances where the instructor
will prevent you from crashing. This will be unsettling, but the
thing to do is jump right back into flying the model (after your
knees stop shaking, of course). This is one of the most
important things about learning to fly model airplanes...you
have to fly! Fly as often as you can. Be sure to make several
flights each time you go to the flying field, but give yourself
time after each flight to calm down and discuss the flight with
your instructor. Spending some time after each flight talking
about what happened and what you need to work on to
improve your skills will pay off with greater confidence in your
own growing abilities.

CHARGE THE BATTERIES

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should always charge your transmitter
and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at
other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

BALANCE THE PROPELLER

Balance your propellers carefully before flying. An unbalanced
prop is the single most significant cause of damaging
vibration. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts
vibrate out, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration will
also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration may
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine
to run rough or quit.

We use a Top Flite®Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(#TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes

®

Fingertip Balancer (#GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY

The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy of
Model Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby shop
dealer if there is such a club in your area and join. Club fields
are set up for R/C flying and that makes your outing safer and
more enjoyable. The AMA also can tell you the name of a club
in your area. We recommend that you join the AMAand a local
club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance to
cover you in case of a flying accident. (The AMA address is
listed on page 3 of this instruction book).

If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find a
large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other R/C
radio operation like R/C boats and R/C cars and away from
houses, buildings and streets. A schoolyard may look inviting
but it is too close to people, power lines and possible radio
interference.

GROUND CHECK THE MODEL

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C
models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that you
have the radio installed correctly and that all the control
surfaces do what they are supposed to. The engine operation
also must be checked and the engine “broken-in” on the
ground by running the engine for at least two tanks of fuel.
Follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations for break­in. Check to make sure all screws remain tight, that the hinges
are secure and that the prop is on tight.

PREPARING TO FLY YOUR AIRVISTA

19

RANGE CHECK YOUR RADIO

Check the operation of the radio before each time you fly . First,
make sure no one else is on your frequency (channel). With
the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control. Have someone
help you. Have them stand by your model and, while you work
the controls, tell you what the models various control surfaces
are doing.

Repeat this test with the engine running at various speeds with
an assistant holding the model. If the control surfaces are not
always acting correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the
problem first.

ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in
severe injury to yourself and others.

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that the engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do
not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.

Check the engine bolts occasionally and retighten.
Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand, as

the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from

the rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose clothing,

shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects (pencils,
screwdrivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into
the prop.

Use a “safety stick” device or electric starter; follow
instructions supplied with the starter or stick. Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off
or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller. IMPORTANT: Never reach around a rotating

propeller.

The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or after operation.
Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak
onto a hot engine.

To stop the engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing of f the fuel
line or follow the engine manufacturer’s recommendations. Do
not use hands, fingers or any body part to try to stop the

engine. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a

running engine.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

GENERAL

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven
to be airworthy by having been previously successfully flight
tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400
feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport
operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in the
proximity of, full scale aircraft. Where necessary an observer
shall be used to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in
the proximity of full scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMAnumber, on or in the model.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that
explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

RADIO CONTROL

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or
spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or
spectator areas, unless beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications
Commission (FCC).

The moment of truth has finally arrived. You’ve put a lot of
effort into building your model and it looks great! Protect your
investment by following a few simple tips:

1. If possible, have an experienced modeler look over your
work before you head out to your flying field. It’s easier to fix
problems in the workshop instead of the flight line.

FLYING YOUR AIRVISTA

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

20

2. Become familiar with starting your engine, and break it in
before going for your first flight. Be sure the engine will stop
when the trim lever is pulled all the way back.

3. Assemble a simple flight kit (a shoe box is fine to start with)
which should include a starting battery and glo-plug clip
(or ni-starter), “chicken stick” for flipping the prop, fuel and a
means of filling the

tank, a couple of small screwdrivers, #64

rubber bands,

spare prop and glo-plug, 6” adjustable wrench,
and a pair of needle nose pliers. In addition to tools, you
should also take along some paper towels and spray window
cleaner to remove fuel residue after each flight.

4. When you load up to go to the flying field be sure that the
batteries have charged for at least 14 hours, and that you have
your fuselage, wing, transmitter, and flight box. And, most
important, you have your AMA license.

5. Range check the radio! See page 19.

USING RUBBER BANDS

The rule of thumb is to use two #64 rubber bands per pound
of model weight. If your model weighs in at 6 pounds, you
need 12 rubber bands. It doesn’t matter too much how many
you run straight across the wing or how many are criss­crossed, so long as the last two are criss-crossed. This trick
stops the other bands from popping off. Do not use oily rubber
bands for more than a few flying sessions. Check each rubber
band before using it; discard any that have cracks. Rubber
bands can be conditioned by storing the oily ones in a zip-top
storage bag partially filled with talcum powder or corn starch.
Both products will absorb the oil.

TAXIING

Start the engine and set the throttle trim for a slow, steady idle.
Have your instructor or a helper hold the plane while you work
the controls. Upon release, advance the throttle slightly to start
rolling, then back-off the power to prevent going too fast and
possibly taking off. Stand behind the plane as it taxies away
from you and note the direction it turns as you move the rudder
control. One thing to keep in mind with R/C models (whether it
be cars, boats, or planes) is that the steering controls may
seem to “reverse” when the model is moving toward you. For
example, if you are flying toward yourself, and you give a right
control input (ailerons or rudder), the model will move off to
your left. The fact of the matter is of course, that the controls
are not reversed and the aircraft did actually enter a right turn.
The plane does move off to your left from your vantage point,
but if you imagined yourself in the cockpit you would realize
the plane turned to the right as commanded. All it takes is a
little practice to maintain proper orientation of your aircraft, but
that’s why we recommend finding an instructor.

When you feel comfortable, advance the throttle a little while
standing behind the plane to get the feel of a takeoff roll, but
pull back on the power before the model lifts off. Try this
several times, adding a little more power each time. If the
plane starts to veer off, immediately cut the power to prevent
a mishap.

Although many R/C pilots have taught themselves to fly, we
strongly recommend that you find an instructor to help get you
started. Although trainer airplanes offer the greatest
opportunity of success for the self-taught, there is a high
probability that you will crash your airplane on the first flight.
Protect your investment of time and money—obtain the
assistance of an experienced R/C pilot.

TAKEOFF

Your first flights should be made in little or no wind. If you have
dual rates on your transmitter, set the switches to “low rate” for
takeoff. Taxi into position, pointing directly into the wind.
Although this model has good low speed characteristics, you
should always build up as much speed as your runway will
permit before lifting off, as this will give you a safety margin in
case of a “flame-out.” Advance the throttle smoothly to the
wide-open setting. When the plane has sufficient flying speed
(you won’t know until you try), lift off by smoothly applying a
little up elevator (don’t force it off into a steep climb!), and
climb out gradually, trying to keep it straight and the wings
level. Climb to about 100 feet before starting a VERY gentle
turn by moving the aileron stick. Apply a little more back
pressure on the elevator stick as the model turns. Stop the turn
by moving the aileron stick in the opposite direction until the
wings are level, then return the stick to the neutral position.
Pull the power back to 1/2 throttle.

FLYING

We recommend that you take it easy with your model for the
first several flights and gradually “get acquainted” with the
plane as your engine becomes fully broken-in. Trainers are
designed to fly level with neutral elevator trim at approximately
1/3 - 1/2 throttle — this is the best speed for learning to fly. On
later flights, if you want your model to maintain level flight at
full throttle, you will need to give it a little down trim.

Your first flights should consist of mostly straight and level
flight with gentle turns to keep the model over the field. These
flights will give you practice at coordinating your control inputs
and maintaining the proper orientation of the airplane. As
mentioned earlier, turns are accomplished by banking the
aircraft with the ailerons (rudder will accomplish this on a
3-channel airplane) then gently adding some back stick (up
elevator). Enough back stick should be held in to keep the
aircraft at a constant altitude. To stop turning, apply opposite
aileron (or rudder) to level the wings, then release the sticks.
There is a memory aid that may help keep you out of trouble
when the plane is flying toward you — “put the stick under the
low wing.” In other words, move the stick in the direction of the
low wing to raise that wing. When you are comfortable flying
the aircraft, you can practice using the rudder along with the
ailerons to “coordinate” the turns — usually, a small amount of
rudder applied in the direction of the turn will keep the tail
following in the exact same track as the nose.

The most common mistake when learning to fly is “over
control.” Think of pressure instead of large movements of the
control sticks. Remember, most trainers will recover from
almost any over control situation (given enough altitude) if you
simply let go of the sticks.

21

Add and practice one maneuver at a time, learning how your
model behaves in each one. For ultra-smooth flying and
normal maneuvers, we recommend using the “low rate”
settings as listed on page 16. High rate control throws will give
your model enough control for loops, barrel rolls, and many
other basic aerobatic maneuvers.

After you have several flights on your model, it’s time to reward
yourself with your first aerobatic maneuver — a loop. Climb to
a safe altitude and turn into the wind. Apply full throttle, level
the wings, then slowly pull back on the elevator stick to about
1/2 to 3/4 up elevator (depending on your throws), and hold
this control input. After you go over the top and start down the
back side of the loop, pull the throttle back to about half. This
will keep the stresses on the airplane low and the airspeed
relatively constant. Keep holding “up” elevator until the plane
is level, then slowly release the sticks. You’re done! It’s really
that easy!

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice any unusual sounds, such as a low­pitched “buzz,” this may be an indication of control surface
“flutter.” Because flutter can quickly destroy components of
your airplane, any time you detect flutter you must immediately
cut the throttle and land the airplane! Check all servo
grommets for deterioration (this will indicate which surface
fluttered), and make sure all pushrod linkages are slop-free.

If
it fluttered once, it will probably flutter again under similar
circumstances unless you can eliminate the slop or flexing in
the linkages. Here are some things which can result in flutter:
excessive hinge gap; not mounting control horns solidly;
sloppy fit of clevis pin in horn; elasticity present in flexible
plastic pushrods; side-play of pushrod in guide tube caused by
tight bends; sloppy fit of Z-bend in servo arm; insufficient glue
used when gluing in the elevator joiner wire or aileron torque
rod; excessive flexing of aileron, caused by using too soft
balsa aileron; excessive “play” or “backlash” in servo gears;
and insecure servo mounting.

LANDING

When it’s time to land, fly a normal landing pattern and
approach as follows: Reduce the power to about 1/4 and fly a
downwind leg far enough out from the runway to allow you to
make a gentle 180 degree turn. As you make the turn into the
wind for your final approach, pull the throttle back to idle. Most
trainer planes have a lot of lift, so you will need a slow , reliable
idle in order to achieve a nice, slow landing. Allow the plane to
keep descending on a gradual glide slope until you are about
3 feet off the runway. Gradually apply a little up elevator to
flare for landing. You should apply just enough up elevator to
hold the plane just off the runway while the excess speed
bleeds off. The model should settle onto the runway for a slow,
slightly nose-high landing. If your approach looks short, add in
a little power to extend the glide. If you are too high, add
throttle slowly and go around for another try. Do not try to
“force” the airplane to land.

Good luck and have fun flying your model, but always
stay in control and fly in a safe manner.

Adverse Yaw - The tendency of an airplane to yaw in the
opposite direction of the roll. For instance, when right aileron
is applied, the airplane yaws to the left, thus opposing the turn.
Adverse yaw is common in trainer type airplanes having flat
bottom wings. It is most noticeable at slow speeds and high
angles of attack, such as during takeoffs and when stretching
a landing approach. Caused by the unequal drag of the
upward and downward deflection of the ailerons, this
undesirable trait can be minimized by setting up the ailerons
with Differential Throw or by coordinating the turns, using the
aileron and rudder controls simultaneously. (See Differential
Throw.)

Ailerons - Hinged control surfaces located on the trailing edge
of the wing, one on each side, which provide control of the

SOME MODELING TERMS & TRIVIA

Hold This Angle

Until Touchdown.

Danger Of Stalling!

Release A Little

Elevator.

Apply Up Elevator

22

airplane about the roll axis. The control direction is often
confusing to first time modelers. For a right roll or turn, the
right hand aileron is moved upward and the left hand aileron
downward, and vice versa for a left roll or turn.

Angle of Attack - The angle that the wing penetrates the air.
As the angle of attack increases so does lift and drag, up to
a point.

ARF - A prefabricated model - Almost Ready to Fly.

Buddy Box - Two similar transmitters that are wired together

with a “trainer cord.” This is most useful when learning to fly —
it’s the same as having dual controls. The instructor can take
control by using the “trainer switch” on his transmitter.

Boring Holes in the Sky - Having fun flying an R/C airplane,
without any pre-determined flight pattern.

CA (Abbreviation for “Cyanoacrylate”) - An instant type glue
that is available in various viscosities (Thin, Medium, Thick,
and Gel). These glues are ideal for the assembly of wood
airplanes and other materials. Note: Most CAglues will attack
Styrofoam.

Carburetor - The part of the engine which controls the speed
or throttle setting and lean/rich mixture via setting of the
needle valve.

CG (“Center of Gravity”) - For modeling purposes, this is
usually considered — the point at which the airplane balances
fore to aft. This point is critical in regards to how the airplane
reacts in the air. A tail-heavy plane will be very snappy but
generally very unstable and susceptible to more frequent
stalls. If the airplane is nose heavy, it will tend to track better
and be less sensitive to control inputs, but, will generally drop
its nose when the throttle is reduced to idle. This makes the
plane more difficult to land since it takes more effort to hold the
nose up. A nose heavy airplane will have to come in faster to
land safely.

Charge Jack - The plug receptacle of the switch harness into
which the charger is plugged to charge the airborne battery . An
expanded scale voltmeter (ESV) can also be plugged into it to
check battery voltage between flights. It is advisable to mount
the charge jack in an accessible area of the fuselage so an
ESV can be used without removing the wing.

Charger - Device used to recharge batteries and usually
supplied with the radio if NiCd batteries are included.

Chicken Stick - A hand-held stick used to “flip start” a model
airplane engine.

Clunk - A weighted fuel pick-up used in a fuel tank to assure
the intake line is always in fuel.

Dead Stick - A term used to describe unpowered flight (glide)
when the engine quits running.

Differential Throw - Ailerons that are set up to deflect more in
the upward direction than downward are said to have
Differential Throw. The purpose is to counteract Adverse Yaw.

Dihedral - The V-shaped bend in the wing. Typically, more
dihedral causes more aerodynamic stability in an airplane, and
causes the rudder to control both the roll and yaw axis. This is
why some trainers and sailplanes require only 3 channels of
radio control—i.e., having no ailerons.

Ding - Minor dent or damage to the structure. Also, a nick in a
prop. Dinged props must be replaced.

Down Thrust - Downward angle of the engine relative to the
centerline of the airplane. Down thrust helps overcome the
normal climbing tendency of flat bottom wings.

Electric Starter - A hand-held electric motor used for starting
a model airplane engine. Usually powered by a 12-volt battery .

Elevator - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge
of the horizontal stabilizer, which provides control of the
airplane about the pitch axis and causes the airplane to climb
or dive. The correct direction of control is to pull the transmitter
elevator control stick back, toward the bottom of the
transmitter, to move the elevator upward, which causes the
airplane to climb, and vice versa to dive.

Epoxy - A two-part resin/hardener glue that is extremely
strong. It is generally available in 6 and 30-minute formulas.
Used for critical points in the aircraft where high strength is
necessary.

Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV) - Device used to read the
battery voltage of the on-board battery pack or transmitter
battery pack.

Field Charger - A fast battery charger designed to work from a
12-volt power source, such as a car battery.

Flaps - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of
the wing inboard of the ailerons. The flaps are lowered to
produce more aerodynamic lift from the wing, allowing a
slower takeoff and landing speed. Flaps are often found on
scale models, but usually not on basic trainers.

Flare - The point during the landing approach in which the pilot
gives an increased amount of up elevator to smooth the
touchdown of the airplane.

Flight Box - A special box used to hold and transport all
equipment used at the flying field.

Flight Pack (or Airborne pack) - All of the radio equipment
installed in the airplane, i.e., Receiver, Servos, Battery, Switch
Harness.

Flutter - A phenomenon whereby the elevator or aileron
control surface begins to oscillate violently in flight. This can

23

sometimes cause the surface to break away from the aircraft
and cause a crash. There are many reasons for this, but the
most common are excessive hinge gap or excessive “slop” in
the pushrod connections and control horns. If you ever hear a
low-pitched buzzing sound, reduce throttle and land
immediately.

Frequency Control - The FCC has allowed the 72MHz band
to be used for R/C aircraft operations. This band is divided up
into many different channels in which you can choose a radio
system. You should be aware that certain areas have
frequencies in which there is pager interference. This is why it
is always a wise move to check with your local hobby shop to
find out any channels that may be troublesome in the area you
wish to fly.

Fuel Overflow Line (Vent) - The fuel line is either open to
atmospheric pressure or attaches to the muffler pressure
nipple to pressurize the fuel tank for better fuel flow to the
engine. This is the line through which the fuel will overflow
when the tank is full.

Fuel Pick Up-Line - The fuel line in the fuel tank through
which fuel travels to the carburetor. Typically a flexible tube
with a weight or “Clunk” on the end which allows it to follow the
fuel with changes in aircraft attitude. This is the line through
which the tank is filled.

Fuselage - The body of an airplane.
Glitch - Momentary radio problem that never happens unless

you are over trees or a swamp.
Glow Plug - The heat source for igniting the fuel/air mixture in

the engine. When starting the engine a battery is used to heat
the filament. After the engine is running, the battery can be
removed. The wire filament inside the plug is kept hot by the
“explosions” in the engine’s cylinder. (See next heading and
“Idle Bar” Plug.)

Glow Plug Clip/Battery - A 1.2-volt battery, which is
connected to the glow plug on a model airplane engine for
starting. The battery is removed once the engine is running
steadily.

Grease-In - A very smooth, gentle landing without a hint of a
bounce.

Hit (or to be hit) - Sudden radio interference which causes
your model to fly in an erratic manner. Most often caused by
someone turning on a radio that is on your frequency, but can
be caused by other radio sources miles away.

Horizontal Stabilizer - The horizontal tail surface at the back
of the fuselage which provides aerodynamic pitch stability to
the airplane.

Idle Bar Plug - This type of glow plug has a “bar” across the
tip to help prevent raw fuel from being splashed onto the glow

element. Too much raw fuel will cool the plug and prevent it
from igniting the fuel/air mixture. An idle bar is a help in
obtaining a low idle speed.

Lateral Balance - The left-right or side-to-side balance of an
airplane. An airplane that is laterally balanced will track better
through loops and other maneuvers.

Leading Edge (LE) - The very front edge of the wing or
stabilizer. This is the edge that hits the air first.

Muffler - A device attached to the exhaust stack of the engine
to reduce noise and increase back pressure which helps low
speed performance. Note: Most R/C Clubs require the use of
mufflers.

Muffler Baffle - A restrictor plate inside the muffler which
reduces engine noise. This plate can be removed to increase
power, but only if there are no noise restrictions where you fly.

Needle Valve - Adjustment on a carburetor used to set proper
fuel/air mixture. Some carburetors have separate needle
adjustments for low and high throttle. Typically, turning the
needle clockwise (screwing in) leans the mixture (less fuel),
and vice versa. However, there are a few exceptions—refer to
the engine manufacturer’s instructions.

NiCd - Nickel Cadmium battery. Rechargeable batteries which
are typically used as power for radio transmitters and
receivers.

Nitro - Nitromethane, a fuel additive which increases a model
engine’s ability to idle low and improves high speed
performance. Ideal nitro content varies from engine to engine.
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for best
results. Nitro content in fuel is indicated by the percent of
the fuel.

Ni-Starter - A self-contained battery and glow plug clip, used
when starting the engine. (See Glow Plug Clip.)

One-Point Landing (or a figure 9) - Synonymous with “stuffing
it in.” Something we hope you never do.

Pitch Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the elevator. Pitch
is illustrated by holding the airplane at each wingtip. Raising or
lowering the nose is the pitch movement. This is how the climb
or dive is controlled.

Power Panel - 12-volt distribution panel that provides correct
voltage for accessories like glow-plug clips, fuel pumps and
electric starters. Usually mounted on a field box and
connected to a 12-volt battery.

Prop Pitch - Props are designated by these two numbers, for
instance 10 - 6. The first number is the prop’s length, 10". The
second number is the pitch or angle of the blades. The 6
represents the distance the propeller will move forward in one
revolution, in this case 6".

Re-Kitting Your Airplane - Changing your finished model
back into a kit, as a result of “stuffing it in.”

Receiver (Rx) - The radio unit in the airplane which receives
the transmitter signal and relays the control to the servos. This
is somewhat similar to the radio you may have in your family
automobile, except the radio in the airplane perceives
commands from the transmitter, while the radio in your car
perceives music from the radio station.

Roll Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the ailerons. Roll is
illustrated by holding the airplane by the nose and tail.
Dropping either wingtip is the roll movement. This is used to
bank or turn the airplane. Many aircraft are not equipped with
ailerons and the Roll and Yaw motions are controlled by the
rudder. This is one reason why most trainer aircraft have a
larger amount of dihedral.

Rudder - Hinged control surface located at the trailing edge of
the vertical stabilizer, which provides control of the airplane
about the Y aw axis and causes the airplane to Yaw left or right.
Left rudder movement causes the airplane to Yaw left, and
right rudder movement causes it to Yaw right.

Servo - The electro-mechanical device which moves the
control surfaces or throttle of the airplane according to
commands from the receiver. The radio device which does the
physical work inside the airplane.

Servo Output Arm - The removable arm or wheel which bolts
to the output shaft of a servo and connects to the pushrod.

Shot Down - A“hit” that results in a crash landing. Sometimes
caused by radios miles away.

Slop - Unwanted, excessive free movement in a control
system. Often caused by a hole in a servo arm or control horn
that is too big for the pushrod wire or clevis pin. This condition
allows the control surface to move without transmitter stick
movement. (See Flutter.)

Solo - Your first totally unassisted flight that results in a
controlled landing.

Spinner - The nose cone which covers the hub of the propeller.
Sport Airplane - Amodel which possesses some attributes of

many of the specialty airplanes and are best for general flying
as they are the most versatile and durable.

Stall - What happens when the angle of attack is too great to
generate lift regardless of airspeed. (Every airfoil has an angle
of attack at which it generates maximum lift — the airfoil will
stall beyond this angle).

Tachometer - An optical sensor designed specifically to count
light impulses through a turning propeller and read out the
engine RPM.

Tip Stall - The outboard end of one wing (the tip) stops
developing lift, causing the plane to roll suddenly in the
direction of the stalled wing. This situation is not fun when you
are only a few feet off the runway trying to land.

Trainer Airplane - A model designed to be inherently stable
and fly at low speeds, to give first-time modelers time to think
and react as they learn to fly.

Trailing Edge(TE) - The rearmost edge of the wing or stabilizer .
Transmitter (Tx) - The hand-held radio controller. This is the

unit that sends out the commands that you input.
Touch-And-Go - Landing and taking off without a pause.

Often confused with a good bounce.
Vertical Fin - The non-moving surface that is perpendicular to

the horizontal stabilizer and provides yaw stability. This is the
surface to which the rudder attaches.

Washout - An intentional twist in the wing, causing the wing
tips to have a lower angle of attack than the wing root. In other
words, the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge at the
wing tips. Washout helps prevent tip stalls.

Wheel Collar - A small, round retaining device used to keep
wheels from sliding off an axle.

Wing - The main lifting surface of an airplane.
Wing Loading - This is the amount of weight per square foot

that has to be overcome to provide lift. It is normally expressed
in ounces per square foot. This specification can be easily
calculated as follows: If you know the square inches of the
wing, simply divide by 144 to obtain square feet. Divide the
total weight (in ounces) of the airplane by the wing area (in
square feet). This information is valuable when deciding on
which airplane to build next. Planes with high wing loading
numbers must fly faster to stay in the air. These are generally
“performance” airplanes. Conversely, planes with lower
numbers do not need as much air flowing around the wing to
keep it flying. Gliders and trainer airplanes fall into this
category because slow, efficient flight is desirable.

Wing Root - The centerline of the wing, where the left and
right wing panels are joined.

Yaw Axis - The airplane axis controlled by the rudder. Yaw is
illustrated by hanging the airplane level by a wire located at the
center of gravity . Lef t or right movement of the nose is the Yaw
movement.

Z-Bend - Asimple Z-shaped bend in the wire end of a pushrod,
which is used to attach the pushrod to a servo output arm.

Z-Bend Pliers - An inexpensive plier type tool used for easily
making perfect Z-bends.

Printed in USA