Harley Davidson mixed bits Service Manual

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Operator’s

Operator’s

Manual

Manual

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Provided by the

Idaho Transportation Department

P.O. Box 7129

Boise, ID 83707-1129

dmv.idaho.gov

4-06

Cover photo courtesy of: American Motorcyclist Association

13515 Yarmouth Drive
Pickerington, OH 43147

__________________________________

The Idaho Transportation Department (ITD) is committed to compliance with Title VI of the Civil Rights Act of
1964 and all related regulations and directives. ITD assures that no person shall on the grounds of race, color,
national origin, gender, age, or disability be excluded from participation in, be denied the benefits of, or be
otherwise subjected to discrimination under any ITD service, program, or activity. The department also assures
that every effort will be made to prevent discrimination through the impacts of its programs, policies, and
activities on minority and low-income populations. In addition, the department will take reasonable steps to
provide meaningful access to services for persons with limited English proficiency.

Rev 4-06

PREFACE

Operating a motorcycle* safely in traffic requires special skills and
knowledge. The purpose of this manual is to educate Idaho motorcycle
operators and to convey essential safe-driving information that will help
them avoid accidents while safely operating a motorcycle. While
designed for the novice, all motorcyclists can benefit from the
information contained in this manual.

The Idaho Transportation Department used information provided by the
Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) to compile the Idaho Motorcycle
Operators Manual and written tests. The National Public Services
Research Institute, under contract to the National Highway Safety
Administration, developed the original Motorcycle Operators Manual.

The Idaho Transportation Department also received assistance from a
certified MSF Motorcycle Chief Instructor, representatives from the
Department of Education, and a member of the Idaho Coalition of
Motorcycle Safety. These individuals used their own riding experience,
and the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s outlines used by other states, to
assist the department in developing a motorcycle program for the state of
Idaho.

The Motorcycle Safety Foundation helped Idaho and 39 other states to
adopt the Motorcycle Operators Manual for use in their licensing
programs. In addition, Idaho and 27 other states utilize the related
motorcycle written tests.

Improved licensing along with quality motorcycle rider education and
increased public awareness have the potential to reduce the number and
severity of motorcycle accidents.

* A motorcycle means every motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the
use of the rider and designed to travel on not more than three wheels in
contact with the ground, but excluding a tractor and moped.

Do you need a motorcycle endorsement?

If you operate any motorized vehicle on public
roadways, Idaho law requires you to have a valid
driver’s license and acceptable proof of liability
insurance. If you operate a motorcycle on public
roadways, you will also need to add a motorcycle
endorsement to your Idaho driver’s license.

Review the chart on the following page to see if your vehicle is classified as
a moped or a motorcycle.

DEFINITIONS:

• MOTORCYCLE: A motor vehicle having a seat or saddle for the use of the
rider and designed to travel on not more than three (3)
wheels in contact with the ground, but excluding tractors
and mopeds.

• MOPED: A limited-speed motor-driven cycle having both
motorized and pedal propulsion that is not capable of

propelling the vehicle at a speed in excess of thirty (30)
miles per hour on level ground, whether two (2) or three
(3) wheels are in contact with the ground during
operation. If an internal combustion engine is used, the
displacement shall not exceed fifty (50) cubic
centimeters and the moped shall have a power drive
system that functions directly or automatically without
clutching or shifting by the operator after the drive
system is engaged.

OR, a limited-speed motor-driven two- or three-wheeled
cycle with no pedals, which (1) is powered solely by
electrical energy, (2) has an automatic transmission, (3)
has a motor that produces less than two gross brake
power and is capable of propelling the vehicle at a
maximum speed of no more than 30 miles per hour on
level ground as originally manufactured, and (4) meets
federal motor vehicle safety standards for motor-driven
cycles.

HOW DO YOU GET A MOTORCYCLE

ENDORSEMENT?

• You must pass a written knowledge test and a motorcycle skills test.

• If you are under 21, you must also successfully complete an approved

motorcycle rider training course.

• See the Idaho Motorcycle Operator’s Manual for more information.

It is a MOPED

You do not need a

motorcycle endorsement.

It is a MOTORCYCLE*

You need a

motorcycle endorsement.

Is your vehicle a moped—or a motorcycle?

YES

If the vehicle has a

shift automatically?

combustible engine, is it

50ccs or less and does it

NO

YES

Is the vehicle designed

Also

level ground?

than 30 mph on

to travel at no more

NO

YES

YES

YES

safety standards for motor-driven cycles.

powered solely by electrical energy, (2) has an

three-wheeled cycle with no pedals, which (1) is

Is the vehicle a limited-speed motor-driven two- or

less than two gross brake power and is capable of

manufactured, and (4) meets federal motor vehicle

than 30 miles per hour on level ground as originally

automatic transmission, (3) has a motor that produces

propelling the vehicle at a maximum speed of no more

NO

Does the vehicle have

the rider?

and a saddle for

three or fewer wheels

*If you are under 18, you are required to wear a helmet while

operating a motorcycle. Motorcycles must be titled and registered.

NO

pedal propulsion?

both motorized and

Does the vehicle have

Table of Contents

EARNING YOUR LICENSE

ENDORSEMENT AND TEST FEES.................................. 1

PREPARING TO RIDE

RIDING GEAR...................................................................... 2

Helmet Use........................................................................ 2

Helmet Selection............................................................... 3

Eye and Face Protection................................................... 3

Clothing............................................................................. 4

KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE.......................................... 5

The Right Motorcycle for You.......................................... 5

Required Equipment.......................................................... 5

Borrowing and Lending..................................................... 6

Get Familiar with the Motorcycle Controls...................... 6

Check Your Motorcycle..................................................... 7

KNOW YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES................................ 9

RIDE WITHIN YOUR ABILITIES

BASIC VEHICLE CONTROL............................................. 10

Body Position.................................................................... 10

Shifting Gears.................................................................... 11

Braking.............................................................................. 11

Turning.............................................................................. 12

KEEPING YOUR DISTANCE............................................. 13

Lane Positions................................................................... 13

Following Another Vehicle............................................... 14

Being Followed................................................................. 15

Passing and Being Passed................................................. 15

Lane Sharing..................................................................... 17

Merging Cars..................................................................... 17

Cars Alongside.................................................................. 18

SIPDE...................................................................................... 19

INTERSECTIONS................................................................ 21

Blind Intersections............................................................ 22

Passing Parked Cars.......................................................... 22

Parking at the Roadside..................................................... 23

SEE AND BE SEEN............................................................... 24

Clothing............................................................................. 24

Headlight........................................................................... 24

Signals............................................................................... 24

Brake Light........................................................................ 25

Using Your Mirrors........................................................... 25

Head Checks...................................................................... 26

Horn................................................................................... 26

Riding at Night.................................................................. 27

CRASH AVOIDANCE........................................................... 28

Quick Stops....................................................................... 28

Swerving or Turning Quickly............................................ 29

Riding a Curve.................................................................. 30

HANDLING DANGEROUS SURFACES........................... 31

Uneven Surfaces and Obstacles........................................ 31

Slippery Surfaces............................................................... 32

Railroad Tracks, Grooves and Gratings............................ 33

MECHANICAL PROBLEMS.............................................. 34

Tire Failure........................................................................ 34

Stuck Throttle.................................................................... 34

Wobble.............................................................................. 34

Chain Problems................................................................. 35

Engine Seizure.................................................................. 35

ANIMALS............................................................................... 36

FLYING OBJECTS............................................................... 36

GETTING OFF THE ROAD................................................ 36

CARRYING PASSENGERS AND CARGO....................... 37

Equipment......................................................................... 37

Instructing Passengers....................................................... 37

Riding with Passengers..................................................... 38

Carrying loads................................................................... 37

GROUP RIDING................................................................... 39

Keep the Group Small....................................................... 39

Keep the Group Together.................................................. 39

Keep Your Distance........................................................... 39

BEING IN SHAPE TO RIDE

FATIGUE................................................................................ 41

ANSWERS TO SAMPLE QUESTIONS............................. 41

KNOWLEDGE TEST (Sample Questions)......................... 43

ON-CYCLE SKILL TEST.................................................... 44

Earning Your License

Safe riding requires a combination of knowledge and skill. Objectively
assessing your own riding skills and knowledge is difficult at best, and it’s even
harder for friends and relatives to be totally honest about your riding skills.
Taking a motorcycle knowledge test is the best way to determine if you have
the minimum knowledge necessary to operate a motorcycle safely in traffic.

Knowledge test questions are based on information, practices, and concepts
found in this manual. In order to pass the test, you must know and understand
road rules and safe riding practices. On-cycle skills tests are conducted in a
controlled, off-street area.

Any person who applies for a motorcycle endorsement after September 1, 1998,
will be required to pass both a written knowledge test and motorcycle skills
test*. Any person under 21 will be required to take a written knowledge test and
successfully complete a motorcycle rider training course (see page 42 of this
manual). It is a good idea to take this course even if you are over 21.

For information and to register for the beginning or experienced rider

course nearest you, go online to www.idahostar.org. The Idaho STAR toll-

free number is (888) 280-STAR (7827), or you may contact the STAR

program at the Idaho Department of Education at [phone].

*Successful completion of an approved motorcycle rider training course may
waive the requirement for the riding skills test, if completed within the year
prior to adding the endorsement to your license.

A motorcycle instruction permit is available to anyone who holds a valid Idaho
Class A, B, C, or D license. This permit is valid for 180 days and allows
motorcycle operators to practice riding under the following restrictions.

• Daylight riding only

• No freeway riding

• No passengers

You must pass the written motorcycle knowledge test before applying for an
instruction permit. If you add the motorcycle endorsement to your Idaho
driver’s license during the instruction permit period, the one-time motorcycle
endorsement fee will be waived. Once the instruction permit has expired, you
must pay the endorsement fee.

You will have to pay one or more of the following fees in addition to the cost of
your regular license:

Motorcycle “M” Endorsement: $11.50 (one-time fee)
Motorcycle Instruction Permit: $11.50 (valid for 180 days)

1

Motorcycle Skills Test: $5.00 (paid to skills tester)
Motorcycle Written Test: $3.00 (paid to county)

If you fail a written and/or skills test, you must wait three days to retest and pay
the fee again.

Preparing To Ride

What you do before you start a trip goes a long way toward determining
whether or not you’ll get where you want to go safely. Before taking off on any
trip, a safe rider makes a point to:

• wear the right gear.

• check the motorcycle equipment.

• become familiar with the motorcycle.

RIDING GEAR

When you ride, your gear is “right” if it protects you. In any collision, you have
a far better chance of avoiding serious injury if you wear:

• an approved helmet.

• face or eye protection.

• protective clothing.

Helmet Use

Collisions are not rare events—particularly among beginning riders. And one
out of every five motorcycle collisions result in head or neck injuries. Head
injuries are just as severe as neck injuries. Accident analysis show that head and
neck injuries account for a majority of serious and fatal injuries to
motorcyclists. Idaho law requires all persons under the age of 18 to wear a
DOT-approved protective helmet while riding on or operating a motorcycle or
ATV on or off road.

Some riders don’t wear helmets because they think helmets will limit their view
to the sides. Others wear helmets only on long trips or when riding at high
speeds. Consider the following:

• A DOT-approved helmet lets you see as far to the sides as necessary. A
study of more than 900 motorcycle collisions, where 40% of the riders
wore helmets, did not find even one case in which a helmet kept a rider
from spotting danger.

• Most collisions happen on short trips (less than five miles long), just a
few minutes after starting out.

• Most motorcycle collisions occur at less than 30 mph. At these speeds,
helmets can cut both the number and the severity of head injuries by half.

2

Helmet Selection

There are three primary types of
helmets, providing three different levels
of coverage: half, three-quarter, and full
face.

Whichever style you choose, you can
get the most protection by making sure
that the helmet:

• Meets U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) and state standards.
Helmets with labels from the American National Standards Institute
(ANSI) or the Snell Memorial Foundation give you an added assurance
of quality.

• Fits snugly, all the way around.

• Has no obvious defects such as cracks, loose padding, or frayed straps.

Whatever helmet you decide on, keep it securely fastened on your head when
you ride. Otherwise, if you are involved in a collision, it’s likely to fly off your
head before it gets a chance to protect you.

Eye and Face Protection

A faceshield can help protect your face from wind, dust, dirt, rain, insects, and
pebbles thrown up from vehicles ahead. These problems can be distracting and
painful. If you have to deal with them, you can’t devote your full attention to
your safety and the road. Wearing a faceshield may help prevent a collision.

HALF

Goggles protect your eyes, though they won’t protect the rest of your face like a
faceshield does. A windshield is not a substitute for a faceshield or goggles.
Most windshields will not protect your eyes from the wind. Neither will
eyeglasses or sunglasses. Glasses won’t keep your eyes from watering, and
they may blow off when you turn your head while riding.
To be effective, eye or face protection must:

• Be free of scratches.

• Be made of shatter-proof material.

• Give a clear view to either side.

• Fasten securely, so it does not blow off.

• Permit air to pass through, to reduce fogging.

• Permit enough room for eyeglasses or sunglasses, if needed.

Tinted eye protection should not be worn at night or any other time when little
light is available.

3

Clothing

The right clothing protects you in a crash.

Jacket and pants should cover your arms and legs completely. They should fit
snugly enough to keep from flapping in the wind, yet loosely enough to move
freely. Leather is very popular and offers good protection. Heavy denim usually
does an adequate job for a reasonable price. Sturdy synthetic material provides
a lot of protection as well. Wear a jacket even in warm weather. Many are
designed to protect without getting you overheated, even on summer days.

Boots or shoes should be high and sturdy enough to cover your ankles and give
them support. Soles should be made of hard, durable material. Choose boots or
shoes with short heels so they do not catch on rough surfaces. Tuck laces in so
they won’t catch on your motorcycle.

Gloves allow a better grip and help protect your hands in a crash. Your gloves
should be made of leather.

In cold or wet weather, your clothes should keep you warm and dry, as well as
protect you from injury. You cannot control a motorcycle well if you are numb
from the cold. Riding for long periods in cold weather can cause severe chill
and fatigue. A winter jacket should resist wind and fit snugly at the neck,
wrists, and waist. Good-quality rainsuits designed for motorcycle riding resist
tearing apart or ballooning up at high speeds.

Answers to sample questions are located on page 41.

1. Plastic face shields and goggles must:

A. Be free of scratches and provide a clear view of either side.
B. Be made of shatter-proof material.
C. Not be worn at night if tinted.
D. All of the above.

4

KNOW YOUR MOTORCYCLE

There are plenty of things on the highway that can cause you trouble. Your
motorcycle should not be one of them. To make sure that your motorcycle
won’t let you down:

• Start with the right motorcycle for you.

• Be familiar with the motorcycle controls.

• Check the motorcycle before every ride.

• Keep it in safe riding condition between rides.

• Avoid add-ons and modifications that make your cycle harder to handle.

The Right Motorcycle For You

First, make sure your motorcycle is right for you. It should “fit” you. Your feet
should reach the ground while you are seated on the cycle.

Required Equipment

Idaho law requires all motorcycles operated on Idaho roads to have the
following:

• Brakes: The law requires a brake on at least one wheel. It can be
operated by hand or by foot.

• Fenders: All motorcycles must have fenders on both wheels that
extend in full width from a point just forward of the center of the tire to
a point not more than 20” above the surface of the highway.

• Passenger Seat and Footrests: Motorcyclists are prohibited from
carrying passengers unless a permanently attached seat and footrests
are provided for the passenger. Passenger footrests must be designed
exclusively for use by the passenger.

• Headlight: Motorcycles must have a headlight sufficient to reveal a
person or vehicle not less than 100 feet ahead when traveling 25 mph
or less; not less than 200 feet when traveling 25-35 mph; and not less
than 300 feet when traveling more than 35 mph.

• Helmet: Any person under the age of 18 must wear a protective helmet
while operating or riding on a motorcycle or ATV, on or off road.

• Horn: You must have a horn that can be heard up to 200 feet away.

5

• Insurance: You must have (and carry on your person) liability
insurance in an amount of not less than $25,000.

• Mirror: Motorcycles must have a mirror that provides a view of the
highway for at least 200 feet to the rear.

• Muffler: You must have a muffler that does not increase engine noise
to a level above that of the muffler originally installed by the
motorcycle manufacturer.

• Stop Light: A red stop light that comes on when you work the brakes
must be visible for 100 feet to the rear during normal sunlight.

• Taillight: Motorcycles must have one red taillight visible for 500 feet
to the rear.

Borrowing and Lending

Borrowers and lenders of motorcycles, beware. Collisions are fairly common
among beginning riders — especially in the first months of riding. Riding an
unfamiliar cycle adds to the problem. If you borrow a motorcycle, get familiar
with it in a controlled area and make sure it is insured—you are liable
lend your motorcycle to friends, make sure they are licensed and know how to
ride before allowing them out into traffic.

No matter how experienced you may be, ride extra carefully on any bike that’s
new or unfamiliar to you. More than half of all collisions occur on motorcycles
that have been ridden by the operator for less than six months.

Get Familiar with the Motorcycle Controls

Make sure you are completely familiar with the motorcycle before you take it
out on the street. This is particularly important if you are riding a borrowed
cycle. If you are going to use an unfamiliar motorcycle:

. If you

• Make all the checks you would on your own motorcycle.

• Find out where everything is, particularly the turn signals, horn,
headlight switch, fuel-control valve, and engine cut-off switch. Learn to
operate these items without having to look for them.

• Know the gear pattern. Work the throttle, clutch, and brakes a few times
before you start riding. All controls react a little differently.

• Ride very cautiously. Accelerate gently, take turns more slowly, and
leave extra room for stopping.

6

10

11

13

9

1. Turn-Signal Switch (may be on both handles)

2. Gear-Change Lever

3. Tachometer

4. Speedometer & Odometer

5. Rear Brake Pedal

6. Throttle

7. Clutch Lever

8. Engine Cut-Off Switch

9. Electric Starting Switch

10. Light Switch

11. Kick Starter

12. Horn Button

13. Front Brake Lever

: Check this equipment before you

NOTE

pull onto the road, each
motorcycle may be different.

Check Your Motorcycle

A motorcycle needs more frequent attention than a car. A minor technical
failure in a car seldom leads to anything more than an inconvenience for the
driver.

If something’s wrong with the motorcycle, you’ll want to find out about it
before you get in traffic. Make a complete check of your motorcycle before
every ride.

Before mounting any motorcycle, make the following checks:

• Tires — Check the air pressure.

• Fluids — Oil and fluid levels. At a minimum, check hydraulic fluids and
coolants weekly. Look under the bike for signs of fluid leaks.

7

• Headlights and Taillight — Check them both. Test your dimmer to
make sure both high and low beams are working.

• Turn Signals — Turn on both right and left turn signals. Make sure all
four lights flash.

• Brake Light — Try both brake controls, and make sure each one turns
on the brake light.

Once you have mounted the motorcycle, complete the following checks before
starting out:

• Clutch and Throttle — Make sure they work smoothly. The throttle
handgrip should return quickly to the idle position when you let go.

• Mirrors — Clean and adjust both mirrors before starting. It’s difficult to
ride with one hand while you try to adjust a mirror. Adjust each mirror
so you can see the lane behind and as much as possible of the lane next to
you. When properly adjusted, a mirror may show the edge of your arm
or shoulder — but it’s the road behind and to the side that’s most
important.

• Brakes — Try the front and rear brake levers one at a time. Make sure
each one feels firm and holds the motorcycle when the brake is fully
applied.

• Horn — Try the horn. Make sure it works.

In addition to the checks you should make before every trip, check the wheels,
cables, and fasteners at least once a week.

2. More than half of all crashes:

A. Occur at speeds greater than 35 m.p.h.
B. Happen at night.
C. Are caused by equipment failures.
D. Involve riders who have ridden their cycles less than six

months.

8

KNOW YOUR RESPONSIBILITIES

“Accident” implies an unforeseen event that occurs without anyone’s fault or
negligence. Most often in traffic, that is not the case. In fact, most people
involved in a crash can usually claim some responsibility for what takes place.

Consider a situation where someone tries to squeeze through an intersection on
a yellow light turning red. Your light turns green. You pull into the intersection
without checking for possible latecomers. That is all it takes for the two of you
to tangle. It was the other driver’s responsibility to stop. And it was your
responsibility to look before pulling out. Neither of you held up your end of the
deal. Just because someone else is the first to start the chain of events leading
to a collision, it doesn’t leave any of us free of responsibility.

As a rider you can’t be sure that other operators will see you or yield the right of
way. To lessen your chances of a crash occurring:

•Be visible— wear proper clothing, use your headlight (set on dim during
daylight hours), and ride in the most visible lane position.

• Communicate your intentions — use the proper signals, brake light,
and lane position.

• Maintain an adequate space cushion — allow extra space when
following, being followed, lane sharing, passing, and being passed.

• Scan your path of travel 20 seconds ahead.

• Identify and anticipate possible hazards in your path of travel.

• Be prepared to act — remain alert and know how to carry out proper

collision-avoidance skills.

Blame doesn’t matter when someone is injured in a crash. There is rarely a
single cause of any crash. Awareness and the ability to make critical decisions,
and carry them out separates responsible riders from all the rest. Remember, it
is up to you to keep from being the cause of, or an unprepared participant in,
any collision.

9

Ride Within Your Abilities

This Manual cannot teach you how to control direction, speed, or balance.
That’s something you can learn only through practice and proper training. But
control begins with knowing your abilities and riding within them and the rules
of the road.

BASIC VEHICLE CONTROL

Body Position

To control a motorcycle well:

•Seat— Sit far enough forward so that arms are slightly bent when you
hold the handlegrips. Bending your arms permits you to turn the
handlebars without having to stretch.

•Hands — Hold the handlegrips firmly to keep your grip over rough
surfaces. Start with your right wrist flat. This will help you keep from
accidentally using too much throttle — especially if you need to reach for
the brake suddenly. Also, adjust the handlebars so your hands are even
with or below your elbows. This permits you to use the proper muscles
for precision steering.

• Knees — Keep your knees against the gas tank to help you keep your
balance as the motorcycle turns.

• Feet — Keep your feet firmly on the footpegs to maintain balance.
Don’t drag your feet. If your foot catches on something, you can be
injured and it could affect your control of the motorcycle. Keep your feet
near the controls so you can get to them quickly if needed. Also, don’t
let your toes point downward — they may get caught between the road
and the footpegs.

• Posture — Sit so you can use your arms to steer the motorcycle rather
than to hold yourself up.

10

Shifting Gears

There is more to shifting gears than simply getting the motorcycle to pick up
speed smoothly. Learning to use the gears correctly when downshifting,
turning, or starting on hills is important for safe motorcycle operation.

To make a smooth stop, squeeze the clutch lever and without releasing the lever,
shift down through the gears so that you are in first gear when you come to a
stop. Remain in first gear while you are stopped so that you can move out
quickly if you need to.

Make certain you are riding slowly enough when you shift into a lower gear. If
not, the motorcycle will lurch, and the rear wheel may skid. When riding
downhill or shifting into first gear you may need to use the brakes to slow down
enough before downshifting safely.

It is best to change gears before entering a turn. However, sometimes shifting
while in the turn is necessary. If so, remember to shift smoothly. A sudden
change in power to the rear wheel can cause a skid.

Braking

Most motorcycles have two brakes: one each for the front and rear wheel. Use
both of them at the same time. The front brake is more powerful and can
provide as much as three-quarters of your total stopping power. The front brake
is safe if you use it properly. Remember:

• Use both brakes every time
for “normal” stops will not permit you to develop the habit or skill of
using the front brake properly in an emergency.

• Squeeze the front brake and press down on the rear. Grabbing at the
front brake or jamming down on the rear can cause the brakes to lock,
resulting in control problems.

• Apply both brakes at the same time
brake, the sooner it will start slowing you down.

• If you know the technique, using both brakes in a turn is possible,
although it should be done very carefully. When leaning the motorcycle
some of the traction is used for cornering. Less traction is available for
stopping. A skid can occur if you apply too much brake. Use caution
and squeeze the brake lever. Also, using the front brake incorrectly on a
slippery surface may be hazardous.

• Some motorcycles have integrated braking systems that link the front and
rear brakes together by applying the rear brake pedal. (Consult the
owner’s manual for a detailed explanation on the operation and effective
use of these systems.)

you slow or stop. Using only the rear brake

. The sooner you apply the front

11

Tu rn in g

Riders often try to take curves or turns too fast. When they can’t hold the turn,
they end up crossing into another lane of traffic or going off the road. Or, they
overreact and brake too hard, causing a skid and loss of control. Approach turns
and curves with caution.

Use four steps for better control:

•SLOW— Reduce speed before the turn by closing the throttle and, if
necessary, applying both brakes.

•LOOK— Look through the turn to where you want to go. Turn just
your head and eyes, not your shoulders, and keep your eyes level with
the horizon.

•ROLL— Roll on the throttle through the turn. Maintain steady speed or
accelerate gradually. Avoid decelerating in the turn.

• PRESS — To turn, the motorcycle must lean. To lean the motorcycle,
push on the handgrip in the direction of the turn. Press left with your left
hand — lean left — go left. Press right with your right hand — lean
right — go right. Higher speeds and/or tighter turns require the
motorcycle to lean more.

In normal turns,
the rider and the
motorcycle should
lean together at
the same angle.

3. When turning, you should:

A. Turn your head and shoulders to look through turns.
B. Keep your arms straight.
C. Keep your knees away from the gas tank.
D. Turn just your head and eyes to look where you are going.

In slow tight turns,
lean the
motorcycle only
and keep your
body straight.

12

KEEPING YOUR DISTANCE

The best protection you can have is distance — a “cushion of space” — all
around your cycle. If someone else makes a mistake, distance permits you:

• Time to react.

• Room to maneuver.

Lane Positions

In some ways the size of the motorcycle can work to your advantage. Each
traffic lane gives a motorcycle three areas or paths of travel as indicated in the
illustration below.

Your lane position should:

• Increase your ability to see and be seen.

• Avoid other drivers’ blind spots.

• Avoid surface hazards.

• Protect your lane from other drivers.

• Communicate your intentions.

• Avoid wind blast from other vehicles.

• Provide an escape route.

• Provide a space cushion.

1 2 3

②➂➃

Select the appropriate path to maximize your space cushion and make yourself
more visible to others on the road.

13

In general, there is no single best position for riders to be seen and to maintain a
space cushion around the cycle. Under normal circumstances, no portion of the
lane need be avoided — including the center.

Position yourself in the portion of the lane where you have the best view of the
road, are most likely to be seen, and where you can maintain a space cushion
around you. Change position as traffic situations change.

Unless the road is wet, the average center strip permits adequate traction to ride
safely. The strip in the center portion of the lane that collects drippings from
cars is usually no more than two feet wide. You can operate to the left or right of
this strip and still be within the center portion of the traffic lane. Big buildups of
oil and grease are usually found at busy intersections or toll booths.

Following Another Vehicle

“Following too closely” is a major factor in crashes caused by motorcyclists. In
traffic, motorcycles need the same amount of distance as cars to stop safely.
Normally, a minimum of three seconds distance should be maintained behind
the vehicle ahead. To gauge your following distance:

1. Pick out a marker, such as a pavement marking or lamppost, on or near
the road ahead.

2. When the rear bumper of the vehicle ahead passes the marker, count off
the seconds: “one-thousand-one, one-thousand-two, one-thousand three.”

3. If you reach the marker before you reach “three,” you are following too
closely.

A three-second following distance leaves a minimum amount of space to stop or
swerve if the driver ahead stops suddenly. It also permits a better view of
potholes and other hazards in the road.

A larger cushion of space is needed if your motorcycle will take longer than
normal to stop. If the pavement is slippery, if you cannot see through the
vehicle ahead, if traffic is heavy and someone may squeeze in front of you, or if
you are pulling a trailer, open up a three-second or more following distance.

Keep well behind the vehicle ahead even when you are stopped. This will make
it easier to get out of the way if someone bears down on you from behind. It
will also give you a cushion of space if the vehicle ahead starts to back up for
some reason.

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When behind a car, ride where the driver can see you in the rearview mirror.
Riding in the center portion of the lane should put your image in the middle of
the rearview mirror — where a driver is most likely to see you.

Riding in the left third of a lane may permit the driver of a truck or van to see
you in a sideview mirror and helps you see the traffic ahead. But remember that
most drivers don’t look at their sideview mirrors nearly as often as they check
the rearview mirror. If the traffic and road situation allows, the center portion of
the lane may be the best place for you to be seen by the drivers ahead and to
prevent lane sharing by others.

Being Followed

Speeding up to lose someone following too closely only ends up with someone
tailgating you at a higher speed.

A better way to handle tailgaters is to get them in front of you. When someone
is following too closely, change lanes when possible and let them pass. If you
can’t do this, slow down and open up extra space ahead of you to allow room
for both you and the tailgater to stop. This will also encourage them to pass. If
they don’t pass, you will have given yourself and the tailgater more time and
space to react in case an emergency does develop.

Passing and Being Passed

Passing and being passed by another vehicle is not much different than with a
car. However, visibility is more critical. Be sure other drivers see you, and that
you see potential hazards.

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Passing

②

➂

➃

➄

1. Ride in the left portion of the lane at a safe
following distance to increase your line of
sight and make you more visible. Signal and
check for oncoming traffic. Use your mirrors
and turn your head to the left to look for
traffic behind.

2. Move into the left lane and accelerate.
Select a lane position that doesn’t crowd the
car you are passing and provides space to
avoid hazards in your lane.

3. Ride through the blind spot quickly.

4. Signal again, and complete mirror and
headchecks before returning to your original
lane.

Remember, passes must be completed within posted speed limits, and only
where permitted. Know your signs and road markings!

Being Passed

When you are being passed from behind or by an oncoming vehicle, choose
your lane position to avoid the following:

• The other vehicle — A slight mistake by you or the passing driver could
cause a sideswipe.

• Extended mirrors — Some drivers forget that their mirrors hang out
farther than their fenders.

Passing Vehicles

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• Objects thrown from windows — Even if the driver knows you’re
there, a passenger may not see you and might toss something on you or
the road ahead of you.

• Blasts of wind from larger vehicles — They can affect your control.
You have more room for error if you are in the middle portion when hit
by this blast than if you are on either side of the lane.

Riding any closer to these hazards could put you in a hazardous position. Do
not move into the portion of the lane farthest from the passing vehicle. It might
invite the other driver to cut back into your lane too early.

Lane Sharing

Cars and motorcycles need a full lane to operate safely.

Riding between rows of stopped or moving cars in the same lane can leave you
vulnerable to the unexpected. A hand could come out of a window; a door
could open; a car could turn suddenly. Discourage lane sharing by others.
Keep a center-portion position whenever drivers might be tempted to squeeze
by you. Drivers are most tempted to do this:

• In heavy, bumper-to-bumper traffic.

• When they want to pass you.

• When you are preparing to turn at an intersection.

• When you are getting in an exit lane, or leaving a highway.

Merging Cars

Drivers on an entrance ramp may not
see you on the highway. Give them
plenty of room. Change to another
lane if one is open. If there is no room
for a lane change, adjust your speed to
open up space for the merging driver.

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Cars Alongside

Do not ride next to cars or trucks in other lanes
if you do not have to. You might be in the blind
spot of a car in the next lane, which could switch
into your lane without warning. Cars in the next
lane also block your escape if you come upon
danger in your own lane. Speed up or drop back
to find a place clear of traffic on both sides.

4. Usually, a good way to handle tailgaters is to:

A. Change lanes if possible and let them pass.
B. Use your horn and make obscene gestures.
C. Speed up to put distance between you and the tailgater.
D. Ignore them.

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SIPDE

Good experienced riders remain aware of what is going on around them. They
improve their riding strategy by using SIPDE, a 5-step process used to make
appropriate judgments, and apply them correctly in different traffic situations:

• Scan

• Identify

• Predict

•Decide

•Execute

Let’s examine each of these steps.

Scan

Search aggressively ahead, to the sides and behind to avoid potential hazards
even before they arise. How assertively you search, and how much time and
space you have, can eliminate or reduce harm. Focus even more on finding
potential escape routes in or around intersections, shopping areas, school and
construction zones.

Search for:

• Oncoming traffic that may turn left in front of you.

• Traffic coming from the left and right.

• Traffic approaching from behind.

Be especially alert in areas with limited visibility. Visually “busy” surroundings
could hide you and your motorcycle from others.

Identify

Locate hazards and potential conflicts.

• Other vehicles— may move into your path and increase collision risk.

• Pedestrians and animals — are unpredictable, and make short, quick
moves.

• Stationary objects — potholes, guard rails, bridges, roadway signs,
hedges, tire debris, lumber, or trees won’t move into your path but may
influence your riding strategy.

Predict

Consider the speed, distance, and direction of hazards to anticipate how they
may affect you. Cars moving into your path are more critical than those moving
away or remaining stationary.
Predict where a collision may occur. Completing this “what if . . .?” phrase to

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estimate results of contacting or attempting to avoid a hazard depends on your
knowledge and experience.

Decide

Decide when, where, and how to act based on types of hazards you encounter:

• Single Hazard

• Multiple Hazards

• Stationary

• Moving

Weigh consequences of each hazard separately, whether single or multiple
hazards are involved.

Execute

In high potential risk areas, such as intersections, shopping areas, school and
construction zones, cover the clutch and both brakes to reduce the time you
need to react.

To create more space and minimize harm from any hazard:

• Communicate your presence with lights and/or horn.

• Adjust your speed by accelerating, stopping, or slowing.

• Adjust your position and/or direction.

Apply the old adage “one step at a time” to handle two or more hazards. Adjust
speed to permit two hazards to separate. Then deal with them one at a time as
single hazards. Decision making becomes more complex with three or more
hazards. Weigh consequences of each and give equal distance to the hazards.

20

INTERSECTIONS

The greatest potential for conflict between you and other traffic is at
intersections. An intersection can be in the middle of an urban area or at a
driveway on a residential street — anywhere traffic may cross your path of
travel. Over half of motorcycle/car collisions are caused by drivers entering a
rider’s right-of-way. Oncoming cars that turn left in front of you, and cars on
side streets that pull into your path, are the two biggest dangers. Your use of
SIPDE (see page 19) at intersections is critical.

There are no guarantees that other drivers
see you. Never count on “eye contact” as a
sign that a driver will yield. Too often,

Cars at Intersections

S S

Increase your chances of being seen at intersections. Ride with your headlight
on (set on dim during daylight hours) in a lane position that provides the best
view of oncoming traffic. Provide a space cushion around the motorcycle that
permits you to take evasive action.

drivers look right at motorcyclists and still
fail to “see” them. The only eyes that you
can count on are your own. If a car can
enter your path, assume that it will. Good
riders are always “looking for trouble” —
not to get into it, but to stay out of it.

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As you approach the intersection, select a lane position to increase your
visibility to the driver. Cover the clutch and both brakes to reduce reaction
time. After entering the intersection, move away from oncoming vehicles
preparing to turn. Do not change speed or position radically. The driver might
think that you are preparing to turn. This strategy should also be used whenever
a vehicle in the oncoming lane of traffic is signalling for a left turn, whether an
intersection is involved or not.

Blind Intersections

If you approach a blind intersection, move
to the portion of the lane that will bring
you into another driver’s field of sight at
the earliest possible moment. In this
picture, the rider has moved to the left
portion of the lane — away from the
parked car — so the driver on the cross
street can see the rider as soon as possible.

Remember, the key is to see as much as
possible and remain visible to others
while protecting your space.

If you have a stop sign or stop line, stop there first.
Then edge forward and stop again, just short of where
the cross-traffic lane meets your lane. From that
position, lean your body forward and look around
buildings, parked cars, or bushes to see if anything is
coming. Just make sure your front wheel stays out of
the cross lane of travel while you’re looking.

Traffic Control Signals

Due to their size, motorcycles do not always trigger traffic control signals when
approaching an intersection. Effective July 1, 2006, the law has been amended
to allow a motorcycle rider, after coming to a complete stop, to proceed with
caution through a red light at an intersection—however, you may only do so if
the signal fails to operate after you wait through one complete cycle of that
traffic signal, and you must yield to any traffic in or approaching the
intersection.

This law change does not provide a defense for violations of traffic laws under
Section 49-801, Idaho Code (Obedience to and required traffic control devices).
Motorcycle riders must still obey traffic signals when the traffic control signal
device can be triggered by the size of motorcycle they are operating, or if the
intersection in question does not have a signal triggered by a vehicle detection
device.

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Passing Parked Cars

When passing parked cars, stay toward the left of your lane. You can avoid
problems caused by car doors opening, drivers getting out of cars, or people
stepping from between cars. If oncoming traffic is present, it is usually best to
remain in the center-lane position to maximize your space cushion.

A bigger problem can occur if the driver pulls away from the curb without
checking for traffic behind. Even a rider who does look may fail to see you. In
either event, the driver might cut into your path. Slow down or change lanes to
make room for someone cutting in.

Cars making a sudden U-turn are extremely
dangerous. They may cut you off entirely, blocking
the whole road-way and leaving you with no place to
go. Since you can’t tell what a driver will do, get the
driver’s attention. Sound your horn and continue
with caution.

Parking at the Roadside

Angle your motorcycle to see in both directions
without straining or having the cycle in the lane
of travel. A clear view is particularly important
to turn across a lane of traffic. When possible,
back into the parking spot to permit riding the
motorcycle out into traffic.

5. To reduce your reaction time, you should:

A. Ride slower than the speed limit.
B. Cover the clutch and the brakes.
C. Shift into neutral when slowing.
D. Pull in the clutch when turning.

6. Making eye contact with other drivers:

A. Is a good sign that they see you.
B. Is important when approaching an intersection.
C. Doesn’t mean that the driver will yield.
D. Decreases your chances of being involved in a collision.

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SEE AND BE SEEN

In collisions with motorcyclists, drivers often say that they never saw the
motorcycle. From ahead or behind, a motorcycle’s outline is much smaller than
a car’s. Also, it’s hard to see something you are not looking for, and most
drivers are not looking for motorcycles. More likely, they are looking through
the skinny, two-wheeled silhouette in search of cars that may pose a problem to
them.

Even if a driver does see you coming, you aren’t necessarily safe. Smaller
vehicles appear farther away, and seem to be traveling slower than they actually
are. It is common for drivers to pull out in front of motorcyclists, thinking they
have plenty of time. Too often, they are wrong.

However, you can do many things to make it easier for others to recognize you
and your cycle.

Clothing

Most collisions occur in broad daylight. Wear bright clothing to increase your
chances of being seen. Remember, your body is half of the visible surface area
of the rider/cycle unit when viewed from the front or the back.

Wearing bright orange, yellow, or green clothing is your best bet for being seen.
Your helmet can do more than protect you in a collision. Brightly colored
helmets can help others see you.

Any bright color is better than drab or dark colors. Reflective or bright colored
clothing (helmet and jacket or vest) is best.

Reflective material on the sides of your helmet and clothing will help drivers
coming from the side notice you. Reflective material can also be a big help for
drivers coming toward you or from behind.

Headlight

The best way to help others see your motorcycle is to keep the headlight on —
at all times. Studies show that, during the day, a motorcycle with its light on is
twice as likely to be noticed. Be sure the headlight is adjusted properly and use
the “dim” setting during daylight hours.

Signals

The signals on a motorcycle are similar to those on a car. They tell others what
you plan to do. However, due to a rider’s added vulnerability, signals are even
more important. Use them anytime you plan to change lanes. Use them even
when you think no one else is around. It’s the car you don’t see that’s going to
give you the most trouble. Your signal lights also make you easier to spot.

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That’s why it’s a good idea to use
your turn signals even when what
you plan to do is obvious.

When you enter onto a freeway,
drivers approaching from behind
are more likely to see your signal
blinking and make room for you.

Turning your signal light on
before each turn reduces
confusion and frustration for the
traffic around you. Once you
turn, make sure your signal is off
or a driver may pull directly into
your path, thinking you plan to
turn again. Use your signals at
every turn so drivers can react
accordingly. Don’t make them
guess what you intend to do.

Brake Light

Your motorcycle’s brake light is usually not as noticeable as the brake lights on
a car — particularly when your taillight is on. (It goes on with the headlight.)
Help others notice you by flashing your brake light before you slow down. It is
especially important to flash your brake light before:

• You slow more quickly than others might expect (turning off a high­speed highway).

• You slow where others may not expect it (in the middle of a block or at
an alley).

If you are being followed closely, it’s a good idea to flash your brake light
before you slow. The tailgater may be watching you and not see something
ahead that will make you slow down.

Using Your Mirrors

While it’s most important to keep track of what’s happening ahead, you can’t
afford to ignore situations behind. Traffic conditions change quickly. Knowing
what’s going on behind can help you make a safe decision about how to handle
trouble ahead.

25

Frequent mirror checks should be part of your normal scanning routine. Make a

S

S

special point of using your mirrors:

• When you are stopped at an
intersection. Watch cars coming up
from behind. If the driver isn’t paying
attention, he could be on top of you
before he sees you.

• Before you change lanes. Make sure no
one is about to pass you.

• Before you slow down. The driver
behind may not expect you to slow, or
may be unsure about where you will
slow. For example, you signal a turn and
the driver thinks you plan to turn at a
distant intersection rather than at a
nearer driveway.

Most motorcycles have rounded (convex) mirrors. These provide a wider view
of the road behind than do flat mirrors. They also make cars seem farther away
than they really are. If you are not used to convex mirrors, get familiar with
them. (While you are stopped, pick out a parked car in your mirror. Form a
mental image of how far away it is. Then, turn around and look at it to see how
close you came.) Practice with your mirrors until you become a good judge of
distance. Even then, allow extra distance before you change lanes.

Blind

Spot

Head Checks

Checking your mirrors is not enough. Motorcycles have “blind spots” like cars.
Before you change lanes, merge onto a freeway, or pass another vehicle, you
should turn your head and look to the side to spot any car(s) about to pass you.

On a road with several lanes, check the far lane and the one next to you. A
driver in the distant lane may head for the same space you plan to take.

Horn

Be ready to use your horn to get someone’s attention quickly. It is a good idea
to give a quick beep before passing anyone that may move into your lane.

Here are some situations:

• A driver in the lane next to you is driving too close to the vehicle ahead
and may want to pass.

• A parked car has someone in the driver’s seat.

• Someone is in the street, riding a bicycle or walking.

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In an emergency, press and hold the horn button. Be ready to stop or swerve
away from the danger.

Riding at Night

At night it is harder for you to see and be seen. Noticing your headlight or
taillight amid the car lights around you is not easy for other drivers. To
compensate, you should:

• Reduce Your Speed — Ride even slower than you would during the day
— particularly on roads you don’t know well. This will increase your
chances of avoiding a hazard because a headlight does not allow you to
see as far ahead as in daylight.

• Increase Distance — Distances are harder to judge at night than during
the day. Your eyes rely upon shadows and light contrasts to determine
how far away an object is and how fast it is coming. These contrasts are
missing or distorted under artificial lights at night. Open up a three­second following distance. And allow more distance to pass and be
passed.

• Use the Car Ahead — The headlights of the car ahead can give you a
better view of the road than even your high beam can. Headlights and/or
taillights bouncing up and down can alert you to bumps or rough
pavement.

• Use Your High Beam — Get all the light you can. Use your high beam
whenever you are not following or meeting a car. Wear reflective
materials — vests, etc.

Be flexible about lane position. Change to whatever portion of the lane is best
able to help you see, be seen, and keep an adequate space cushion.

7. You should always perform a head check before you:

A. Change lanes.
B. Merge onto a freeway.
C. Pass another vehicle.
D. All of the above.

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CRASH AVOIDANCE

No matter how careful you are, there will be times when you find yourself in a
dangerous situation. Your chances of getting out safely depend on your ability
to react quickly and properly. Often, a crash occurs because a rider is not
prepared or skilled in obstacle-avoidance maneuvers.

Know when and how to stop or swerve, two skills critical to avoiding a crash.
It is not always desirable or possible to stop quickly to avoid an obstacle.
Riders must also be able to swerve around an obstacle. Determining the skill
necessary for the situation is important as well.

Studies show that most riders involved in crashes:

• Underbrake the front tire and overbrake the rear.

• Do not separate braking from swerving.

The following information offers some good advice.

Quick Stops

To stop quickly, apply both brakes at the same time. Don’t be shy about using
the front brake, but don’t “grab” at it, either. Squeeze the brake lever steadily
and firmly. Apply the front brake fully. If the front wheel locks, immediately
release the front brake then reapply firmly. At the same time, press down on the
rear brake. If you accidentally lock the rear brake while on a straight section of
road, keep it locked until you have completely stopped. (A skilled rider can
release the rear brake, but should only do so if the rear tire has not fishtailed to
one side.) Even with a locked rear wheel, you can control the cycle on a
straightaway if it is upright and going in a straight line.

If you must stop quickly while turning or riding a
curve, it may not always be possible to straighten
the motorcycle and then stop. If you must brake
while leaning, apply the brakes gradually and
reduce the throttle. As you slow, you can reduce
your lean angle and apply more brake pressure until
the motorcycle is straight and maximum brake
pressure is possible. If you “straighten” the
handlebar in the last few feet of stopping, the
motorcycle should be straight up and in balance.

Always use both brakes at the same time to stop. The front brake can provide
70% or more of the motorcycle’s stopping power.

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Stopping

Distance

Rear Brake

Front Brake

Both Brakes

Swerving or Turning Quickly

Sometimes you may not have enough room to stop, even if you use both brakes
properly. The car ahead might squeal to a stop or an object might appear
suddenly in your path. The only way to avoid a crash may be to turn quickly,
swerve, or ride over the obstacle.

A swerve is any sudden change in direction. It can be two quick turns, or a rapid
shift to the side. Apply hand pressure to the handgrip in your intended direction
of escape. This will get the motorcycle to lean quickly. The sharper the turn(s),
the more the bike must lean.

Keep your knees against the tank and your feet solidly on the pegs. Let the bike
move underneath you. Make your escape route the target of your vision. Once
you clear the obstacle, press on the opposite handgrip to return to your original
direction of travel. To swerve to the left, press left then right to recover. To
swerve to the right, press right then left.

Try to stay in your own lane. Change lanes only if you have enough time to
make sure there are no vehicles in the other lane. You should be able to squeeze
by most obstacles without leaving your lane.

Swerve, Then Brake Brake, Then Swerve

IF BRAKING IS REQUIRED, SEPARATE IT FROM SWERVING.

Brake before or after — never while swerving.

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Riding a Curve

A primary cause of single­vehicle crashes is
motorcyclists running
wide in a curve or turn and
colliding with the roadway
or a fixed object.

Every curve is different.
Be alert to whether a curve
remains constant,
gradually widens, gets
tighter, or involves
multiple turns.

Use caution when braking
on right turns. If you
brake too hard, your bike
may straighten upright and
cause you to swerve out
into the oncoming lane of
traffic.

Ride within your skill level and posted speed limits.

Your best path may not always follow the curve of the road. Change lane
position depending on traffic and road conditions. If no traffic is present and
your riding abilities are up to it, you may choose to start at the outside of a
curve to increase your line of sight and the effective radius of the turn. As you
turn, move toward the inside of the curve, and as you pass the center, move to
the outside to exit.

Another alternative is to move to the center area of your lane before entering a
curve — and stay there until you exit. You can adjust for traffic “crowding” the
center line, or debris blocking part of your lane.

8. The best way to stop quickly is to:

A. Use the front brake only.
B. Use the rear brake first.
C. Throttle down and use the front brake.
D. Use both brakes at the same time.

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HANDLING DANGEROUS SURFACES

Your chance of falling or being involved in a collision increases whenever you
ride across:

• Uneven surfaces or obstacles.

• Slippery surfaces.

• Railroad tracks.

• Grooves and gratings.

Uneven Surfaces and Obstacles

Watch for uneven surfaces such as bumps, broken pavement, potholes, or small
pieces of highway trash.

First, determine if it is possible to go over the obstacle. Approach it at as close
to a 90° angle as possible. Look where you want to go to control your path of
travel. If you have to ride over the obstacle, you should:

• Slow down to reduce the jolt if time permits.

• Make sure the motorcycle is straight up.

• Rise slightly off the seat with your weight on the footpegs to absorb the
shock with your knees and elbows.

Rising off the seat will reduce your chances of being thrown off the bike.
However, controlling the throttle can be somewhat tricky. Practice this in an
area such as an empty parking lot away from traffic.

If you ride over an object on the street, pull off the road and check your tires
and rims for damage before riding any farther.

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Slippery Surfaces

Motorcycles handle better when ridden on surfaces that permit good traction.
Surfaces that provide poor traction include:

• Wet pavement, particularly just after it starts to rain and before surface
oil washes to the side of the road.

• Gravel roads, or where sand and gravel collect.

• Mud, snow, and ice.

• Lane markings, steel plates, and manhole covers, especially when wet.

To ride safely on slippery surfaces:

• Reduce Speed — Slow down before you get to a slippery surface to
lessen your chances of skidding when stopping or turning. Your
motorcycle needs more distance to stop. It is particularly important to
reduce speed before entering wet curves.

• Avoid Sudden Moves — Any sudden change in speed or direction can
cause a skid. Be as smooth as possible when you speed up, shift gears,
turn, or brake.

• Use Both Brakes — The front brake is more effective than the rear, even
on a slippery surface. Squeeze the brake lever gradually to avoid locking
the front wheel.

- Roads are the slickest when it first starts to rain until the dirt and oil are

washed away.

- Watch for oil spots when you put your foot down to stop or park. You

may slip and fall.

- Dirt and gravel collect along the sides of the road — especially on

curves and ramps leading to and from highways. Stay away from the
edge of the road, particularly when making sharp turns and getting on
or off freeways at high speeds.

- Rain dries and snow melts faster on some sections of a road than on

others. Patches of ice tend to crop up in low or shaded areas and on
bridges and overpasses. Wet surfaces or wet leaves are just as slippery.
Ride on the least slippery portion of the lane.

Cautious riders steer clear of roads covered with ice or snow. If you can’t avoid
a slippery surface, keep your bike straight up and proceed slowly. Be sure to
keep off the brakes. If possible, squeeze the clutch and coast. Attempting this
maneuver at anything other than the slowest of speeds could prove hazardous.

32

Railroad Tracks, Trolley Tracks, and Pavement Seams

Usually it is safer to ride
straight within your lane to
cross tracks. Turning to take
tracks head-on (at a 90° angle)
can be more dangerous —
your path may carry you into

Move far enough away from tracks, ruts,
or pavement seams that run parallel to your
course to cross at an angle of at least 45°.
Then, make a quick, sharp turn. Edging
across could catch your tires and throw
you off balance.

S

another lane of traffic.

Grooves and Gratings

Riding over rain grooves or
bridge gratings will cause a
motorcycle to weave. The
uneasy, wandering feeling is
generally not hazardous. Relax,
slow your speed and ride straight
across. Crossing at an angle
forces riders to zigzag to stay in
the lane. The zigzag is far more
hazardous than the wandering
feeling.

9. When you ride across a bridge grating:

A. Ride at the far right of the lane.
B. Increase your speed.
C. Slowly zig-zag across the grating.
D. Relax, slow your speed, and ride straight across.

33

MECHANICAL PROBLEMS

You can find yourself in an emergency the moment something goes wrong with
your motorcycle. In dealing with any mechanical problem, take into account the
road and traffic conditions you face. Here are some guidelines that can help
you handle mechanical problems safely.

Tire Failure

You will seldom hear a tire go flat. If the cycle starts handling differently, it
may be a tire failure. This can be dangerous. You must be able to tell from the
way the cycle reacts. If one of your tires suddenly loses air, react quickly to
keep your balance. Pull off and check the tires.

If the front tire goes flat, the steering will feel “heavy.” A front-wheel flat is
particularly hazardous because it affects your steering. You have to steer well to
keep your balance.

If the rear tire goes flat, the back of the motorcycle will jerk or weave from side
to side. If either tire goes flat while riding:

• Hold the handlegrips firmly and keep a straight course.

• If possible, coast to a stop.

• If you must brake, gradually apply the brake of the tire that isn’t flat, if
you are sure which one it is.

• When the motorcycle slows, edge to the side of the road and stop.

Stuck Throttle

Twist the throttle back and forth several times. If the throttle cable is stuck, this
may free it. If the throttle stays stuck immediately operate the engine cut-off
switch and pull in the clutch at the same time. This will remove power from the
rear wheel, though engine noise may not immediately decline. Once the
motorcycle is “under control,” pull off and stop.

After you have stopped, check the throttle cable carefully to find the source of
the trouble. Make certain the throttle works freely before you start to ride
again.

Wobble

A “wobble” occurs when the front wheel and handlebars suddenly start to shake
from side to side at any speed. Most wobbles can be traced to improper
loading, unsuitable accessories, incorrect tire pressure, or misaligned tires
and/or chain drive. If you are carrying a heavy load, lighten it. If you can’t,
shift it. Center the weight lower and farther forward on the cycle. Make sure
tire pressure, spring pre-load, air shocks, and dampers are at the settings
recommended for that much weight. Make sure windshields and fairings are

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mounted properly.
Check for poorly adjusted steering; worn steering parts; a front wheel that is
bent, misaligned, or out of balance; loose wheel bearings or spokes; and
swingarm bearings. If none of these are determined to be the cause, have the
motorcycle checked out thoroughly by a qualified professional.

Trying to “accelerate out of a wobble” will only make the cycle more unstable.
Instead:

• Grip the handlegrips firmly, but don’t fight the wobble.

• Close the throttle gradually to slow the motorcycle. Do not apply the
brakes; braking could make the wobble worse.

• Move your weight as far forward and down as possible.

• Pull off the road as soon as you can to fix the problem.

Chain Problems

A chain that slips or breaks while you’re riding could lock the rear wheel and
cause your cycle to skid. Chain slippage or breakage can be avoided by proper
maintenance.

Slippage — If the chain slips when you try to speed up quickly or ride
uphill, pull off the road. Check the chain and sprockets. Tightening the
chain may help. If the problem is a worn or stretched chain or worn or bent
sprockets, replace the chain, the sprockets, or both before riding again.

Breakage — You’ll notice an instant loss of power to the rear wheel.
Close the throttle and brake to a stop.

Engine Seizure

When the engine “locks” or “freezes” it is usually low on oil. The engine’s
moving parts can’t move smoothly against each other, and the engine overheats.
The first sign may be a loss of engine power or a change in the engine’s sound.
Squeeze the clutch lever to disengage the engine from the rear wheel. Pull off
the road and stop. Check the oil. If needed, oil should be added as soon as
possible or the engine will seize. When this happens, the effect is the same as a
locked rear wheel. Let the engine cool before restarting.

There Is No Substitute For Frequent Cycle Maintenance.

10. If your motorcycle starts to wobble:

A. Accelerate out of the wobble.
B. Use the brakes gradually.
C. Grip the handlegrips firmly and close the throttle gradually.
D. Downshift.

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ANIMALS

Naturally, you should do everything you safely can to avoid hitting an animal.
If you are in traffic, however, remain in your lane. Hitting something small is
less dangerous to you than hitting something big — like a car.

Motorcycles seem to attract dogs. If you are chased, shift down and approach
the animal slowly. As you approach it, speed up and leave the animal behind.
Don’t kick at an animal. Keep control of your motorcycle, and look to where
you want to go.

FLYING OBJECTS

From time to time riders are struck by insects, cigarettes thrown from cars, or
pebbles kicked up by the tires of the vehicle ahead. If you are wearing face
protection, it might get smeared or cracked, making it difficult to see. Without
face protection, an object could hit you in the eye, face, or mouth. Whatever
happens, keep your eyes on the road and your hands on the handlebars. When
safe, pull off the road and repair the damage.

GETTING OFF THE ROAD

If you need to leave the road to check the motorcycle (or just to rest for a
while), be sure you:

• Check the Roadside — Make sure the surface of the roadside is firm
enough to ride on. If it is soft grass, loose sand, or if you’re just not sure
about it, slow way down before you turn onto it.

• Signal — Drivers behind might not expect you to slow down. Give a
clear signal that you will be slowing down and changing direction.
Check your mirror and make a head check before you take any action.

• Pull Off the Road — Get as far off the road as you can. It can be very
hard to spot a motorcycle by the side of the road. You don’t want
someone else pulling off at the same place you are.

• Park Carefully — Loose and sloped shoulders make setting the
kickstand difficult.

11. If you are chased by an animal:

A. Kick it away.
B. Stop until the animal loses interest.
C. Swerve around the animal.
D. Approach the animal slowly, then speed up.

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CARRYING PASSENGERS AND CARGO

Only experienced riders should carry passengers or large loads. The extra
weight changes the way the motorcycle handles, balances, turns, speeds up, and
slows down. Before taking a passenger or heavy load on the street, practice
away from traffic.

Equipment

To carry passengers safely:

• Equip and adjust your motorcycle to carry passengers.

• Instruct the passenger before you start.

• Adjust your riding technique for the added weight.

• Have your passenger wear the same type of protective gear
recommended for motorcycle operators.

The following equipment is required by Idaho law:

• A Proper Seat — large enough to hold both of you without crowding, or
a separate, permanently attached passenger seat. You should not sit any
farther forward than you usually do.

• Footrests — for the passenger. A firm footing prevents your passenger
from falling off and pulling you off, too.

• A Helmet — any person under the age of eighteen (18) must wear a
DOT-approved helmet while operating or riding on a motorcycle.

Adjust the suspension to handle the additional weight. Add a few pounds of
pressure to the tires if you carry a passenger. (Check your owner’s manual.)
While your passenger sits on the seat with you, adjust the mirror and headlight
according to the change in the motorcycle’s angle.

Instructing Passengers

Even if your passenger is a motorcycle rider, provide complete instructions
before you start. Tell your passenger to:

• Sit as far forward as possible without crowding you.

• Hold firmly to your waist, hips, or belt.

• Keep both feet on the pegs, even when stopped.

• Keep legs away from the muffler(s).

• Stay directly behind you, over the center of the motorcycle.

• Avoid unnecessary motion.

Also, tell your passenger to tighten his or her hold when you (1) approach
surface problems, (2) are about to start from a stop, and (3) warn that you are
going to make a sudden move.

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Riding With Passengers

Your motorcycle will respond more slowly with a passenger on board. The
heavier your passenger, the longer it will take to slow down, speed up, or turn
— especially on a light cycle.

• Ride a little slower, especially when taking curves, corners, or bumps.

• Start slowing earlier as you approach a stop.

• Open up a larger cushion of space ahead and to the sides.

• Wait for larger gaps to cross, enter, or merge in traffic.

Warn your passenger of special conditions — when you will pull out, stop
quickly, turn sharply, or ride over a bump. Turn your head slightly to make
yourself understood, but keep your eyes on the road ahead.

Carrying Loads

Most motorcycles are not designed to carry much cargo. Small loads can be
carried safely if positioned and fastened properly.

• Keep the Load Low — Fasten loads to the seat, or put them in saddle
bags. Piling loads against a sissybar or frame on the back of the seat
raises the cycle’s center of gravity and disturbs its balance.

• Keep the Load Forward — Place the load over, or in front of, the rear
axle. Tankbags keep loads forward, but use caution when loading hard or
sharp objects. Mounting loads behind the rear axle can affect how the
cycle turns and brakes. It can also cause a wobble.

• Distribute the Load Evenly — Load saddlebags with about the same
weight. An uneven load can cause the motorcycle to drift to one side.

• Secure the Load — Fasten the load securely with elastic cords (bungee
cords). A tight load won’t catch in the wheel or chain, causing it to lock
up and skid. Rope tends to stretch and knots come loose, permitting the
load to shift or fall.

• Check the Load — Stop and check the load every so often to make sure
it has not worked loose or moved.

12. Passengers should:

A. Stay directly behind you over the center of the cycle.
B. Always sit upright.
C. Sit as far back as possible.
D. Never hold onto you.

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GROUP RIDING

–SpS S–

If you ride with others, do it in a way that promotes safety and doesn’t interfere
with the flow of traffic.

Keep the Group Small

Small groups make it easier and safer for car drivers who need to get around
them. A small number isn’t separated as easily by traffic or red lights. Riders
won’t always be hurrying to catch up. If your group is larger than four or five
riders, divide it up into two or more smaller groups.

Keep the Group Together

•Plan — The leader should look ahead for changes and signal early so

“the word gets back” in plenty of time. Start lane changes early to permit
everyone to complete the change.

• Put Beginners Up Front — Place inexperienced riders behind the
leader, where more experienced riders can watch them.

• Follow Those Behind — Let the tailender set the pace. Use your
mirrors to keep an eye on the person behind. If a rider falls behind,
everyone should slow down a little to stay with the tailender.

• Know the Route — Make sure everyone knows the route. Then, if
someone is separated they won’t have to hurry to keep from getting lost
or taking a wrong turn.

Keep Your Distance

Maintain close ranks at a safe distance. A close group takes up less space on the
highway, is easier to see and is less likely to be
separated. However, it must be done properly.

• Don’t Pair Up — Never operate directly
alongside another rider. There is no
place to go if you have to avoid a car or
something on the road. To talk, wait
until you are both stopped.

• Staggered Formation — This is the
best way to keep ranks close yet
maintain an adequate space cushion.
The leader rides in the left side of the
lane, while the second rider stays one
second behind in the right side of the

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lane.

A third rider stays in the left position, two seconds behind the first rider.
The fourth rider would keep a two-second distance behind the second
rider. This formation keeps the group close and permits each rider a safe
distance from others ahead, behind, and to the sides, and discourages
traffic from breaking into the formation.

• Passing in Formation — Riders in a staggered formation should pass

one at a time.

First, the lead rider should pull
out and pass when it is safe.
After passing, the leader
should return to the left
position and continue riding at
passing speed to open room
for the next rider.

Some people suggest that the leader should move to the right side after
passing a vehicle. This is not a good idea. It encourages the second rider
to pass and cut back in before there is a large enough space cushion in
front of the passed vehicle. It’s simpler and safer to wait until there is
enough room ahead of the passed vehicle to allow each rider to move

When the first rider passes
safely, the second rider should
move up to the left position
and watch for a safe chance to
pass. After passing, this rider
should return to the right
position and open up room for
the next rider.

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into the same position held before the pass.

• Single-File Formation — It is best to move into a single-file formation
when riding curves or turning, and when entering or leaving a highway.

BEING IN SHAPE TO RIDE

Riding a motorcycle is a demanding and complex task. Skilled riders pay
attention to the riding environment and to operating the motorcycle, identifying
potential hazards, making good judgments, and executing decisions quickly and
skillfully. Your ability to perform and respond to changing road and traffic
conditions is influenced by how fit and alert you are.

FATIGUE

Riding a motorcycle is more tiring than driving a car. On a long trip, you’ll tire
sooner than you would in a car. Avoid riding when you are tired. Fatigue can
affect your control of the cycle.

• Protect Yourself From the Elements — Wind, cold, and rain make you
tire quickly. Dress warmly. A windshield is worth its cost if you plan to
ride long distances.

• Limit Your Distance — Experienced riders seldom try to ride more than
about six hours a day.

• Take Frequent Rest Breaks — Stop, and get off the cycle at least every
two hours.

• Don’t Drink or Use Drugs — Artificial stimulants often result in
extreme fatigue or depression when they start to wear off, making it very
difficult to concentrate on the task at hand.

13. When riding in a group, inexperienced riders should position

themselves:

A. Behind the leader.
B. In front of the group.
C. In the middle of the group.
D. Beside the leader.

14. To avoid fatigue, you should ride no more than:

A. 2 hours a day.
B. 4 hours a day.
C. 6 hours a day.
D. 10 hours a day.

Answers: 1-D, 2-D, 3-D, 4-A, 5-B, 6-C, 7-D, 8-D, 9-D, 10-C, 11-D, 12-A,

13-A, 14-C

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PROFESSIONAL TRAINING

Motorcycles are inexpensive to operate, fun to ride, and easy to park.
Unfortunately, many riders never learn the critical skills needed to ride safely.
Professional training for beginning and experienced riders prepares them for
real-world traffic situations. Motorcycle Rider Courses teach and improve skills
such as effective turning, braking maneuvers, protective apparel selection,
obstacle avoidance, traffic strategies, and maintenance.

THE TRAINING PROGRAM: Think of it as a desk with two wheels!

There are two levels to the STAR Program: one for beginners and another
for more experienced riders. This way, students with similar skill levels learn
together. Both courses are taught by Idaho-certified instructors. These are
highly-experienced riders with the patience, understanding, and knowledge to
help you develop skills you can’t learn from family members or friends. Both
courses take place in controlled, off-street environments, so you don’t have to
worry about traffic.

BASIC COURSE:

This is the beginner course, specially designed for novice riders. You’ll
spend about seven hours in the classroom and about nine hours riding a
motorcycle. The course takes place over two-and-a-half days—evenings and
weekends. You’ll become familiar with different types of motorcycles, their
controls, and how they operate. You’ll learn the effects of drugs and alcohol,
and you’ll discover how to create your own strategies for riding in traffic and
dealing with critical situations. You’ll begin with straight-line riding, turning,
shifting, and stopping, then advance to more complex cornering, swerving, and
emergency-braking skills.

In the beginner course, helmets and motorcycles are provided. You are
responsible for providing the required protective clothing (eye protection,
gloves, boots that cover the ankle, sturdy pants, and a jacket).

EXPERIENCED COURSE:

This second-level course is designed for riders with at least three-month’s
experience. Even if you’ve been riding for some time, there’s always something
new you can learn. This one-day course puts you through the paces. You’ll
spend a short time in the classroom fine-tuning the mental skills needed for
survival in traffic. Then, using your own motorcycle, you’ll practice techniques
of managing traction, controlling rear-wheel skids, stopping quickly, proper
cornering, and swerving. When you’re finished, you’ll have valuable new riding
skills. . . some you may not have realized you were missing!

Rider courses are available throughout Idaho. For the location of the one
nearest you, go online to www.idahostar.org. The Idaho STAR toll-free number
is (888) 280-STAR (7827), or you may contact the STAR program at the Idaho
Department of Education at [phone].

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KNOWLEDGE TEST (Sample Questions)

(The answers are printed at the bottom of the next page.)

1. It is MOST important to flash your brake light when:

A. someone is following too closely.
B. you will be slowing suddenly.
C. there is a stop sign ahead.
D. your signals are not working.

2. The FRONT brake supplies how much of the potential stopping

power?

A. About one-quarter.
B. About one-half.
C. About three-quarters.
D. All of the stopping power.

3. To swerve correctly:

A. shift your weight quickly.
B. turn the handlebars quickly.
C. press the handgrip in the direction of the turn.
D. press the handgrip in the opposite direction of the turn.

4. If a tire goes flat while riding, it is usually best to:

A. hold the handlegrips firmly and apply the brake on the good tire, or

avoid braking.

B. shift your weight toward the good

wheel and brake.

C. brake on the good tire and steer to

the right.

D. use both brakes and stop quickly.

5. The car is waiting to enter the

intersection. It is best to:

A. make eye contact with the driver.
B. reduce speed and be ready to react.
C. maintain speed and position and be

ready to react.

D. maintain speed and move right.

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MOTORCYCLE SKILL TEST

Basic vehicle control and obstacle-avoidance skills are included in skill tests to
determine your ability to handle normal and hazardous traffic situations. For
example, you may be tested for your ability to:

• Know your motorcycle and your riding limits.

• Accelerate, brake, and turn safely.

• See, be seen, and communicate with others.

• Adjust speed and position to the traffic situation.

• Stop, turn, and swerve quickly.

• Make critical decisions and carry them out.

Examiners may score on factors related to safety such as:

• Selecting safe speeds to perform maneuvers.

• Choosing the correct path and staying within boundaries.

• Completing normal and quick stops.

• Completing normal and quick turns, or swerves.

Knowledge Test Answers: 1-B, 2-C, 3-C, 4-A, 5-C

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