Thank you for purchasing the original all stainless steel Hardy Outside Wood-Fired
Hydronic Heater. It represents the result of many years of Hardy experience and the
input of Hardy customers in the production of a top quality heater. With the purchase of
this Hardy Hydronic Heater, you can now appreciate the high degree of craftsmanship
and reliability that have made The Hardy the leader in the Outside Wood-Fired
Hydronic Heater field. This manual will provide you with a good basic understanding of
the installation and operation of this heater.
THIS MANUAL INCLUDES IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION.
Your new heater should have the following:
(1) Owner’s manual complete with Installation
and Hook-Up Instructions
(2) Warranty & Return Warranty Card
(3) A tube of silicone (located in the firebox for shipping)
(4) Smoke stack and condenser tank stack both
with trim (located in the firebox for shipping)
(5) LC300 has two I-beams and three cast iron grates (located in the firebox)
LC500 has one I-beam, two channels and six grates (located in the firebox)
LC2500 has one air tube, two channels and six grates (located in firebox)
(6) Shovel (located in the firebox for shipping)
(7) Stainless steel panel and insulation that will be
located between the firebox door & ash door after installation of the heater
(8) Hardy model LC500 has a stainless steel flame baffle (15” x 10”).Hardy Model LC2500 has a welded steel baffle & 3/8” steel plate
Should your heater not have any of these items or if you have any questions regarding
the operation or maintenance of your heater, please consult you local Hardy dealer.
Again, thank you for purchasing a Hardy Outside Wood-Fired Hydronic Heater.
Sincerely,
Frank L. Moore
President
Hardy Manufacturing Company, Inc.
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
i
Please fill in the following information
Hardy Model
Serial Number
Date of Purchase
Date of Installation
Dealer Purchased from
Dealer Address
Dealer Phone Number
HARDY MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC.
12345 ROAD 505
PHILADELPHIA, MS 39350
PHONE: (601) 656-5866
www.hardyheater.com
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
ii
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING
Do not operate this equipment for other than its intended purpose nor other
than in accordance with the instructions contained in this manual and all other
instructions accompanying the unit. For units covered by this instruction book, it is
important to observe safety precautions to protect yourself from possible injury. Among
the many considerations, you are advised to:
Observe all safety stickers on the unit.
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician in accordance with the National
Electrical Code.
Never use any type of petroleum product, petroleum based product, charcoal
starter, lighter fluid, or any other flammable accelerant to start your unit.
Always open the ash door (bottom) before you open the firebox door (top).
Never leave the doors open, always latch the doors securely.
Always use proper care when installing, operating and maintaining the unit.
Do not modify the unit.
Do not substitute repairs which can be provided by your dealer, distributor, or
Hardy Manufacturing Company.
Failure to heed this warning or any additional warnings on the unit may result in an
accident causing personal injury.
Safety Labels and Rating Labels
Read all safety labels on this unit
5” X 3.5”
LC300-1-07
120,000
2.69
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
iii
Safety Labels
Read all safety labels on this unit
Name Plate Supplement
5” X 10” (not shown actual size)
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
iv
R
WAT ER VALVE
LIQU ID LEVEL
SWITCH
M
PUMP MOT OR
RELAY
R3
M
DAM PER BLOWER
MOTOR
DAMPER
AQUASTAT
M
PUMP MOT OR
RELAY
R3
OPTION AL
SECOND
HEATING
ZON E
GROUND FAULT
CIRCUIT
INTERRUPTER
L 1
L 2
DAMPER SOLENOID
R
LL S
4
6
R 3
46
R 3
T1
BM
PM
PM
W V
SO L
GFC I
L 2
L 1
LEGEND
GFCIGROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRU PTER
LLSLIQUID LEVEL SWITCH
WVWATER SOLENOID VALVE
(OPTIONAL ON H3 & H 5)
R3CIRCULA TOR PUMP RELAY
PMWATER CIRCULATOR PUMP
T1DAMPER AQUASTAT
BMDAMPER BLOWER MOTOR
SOLDAM PER SOLENOI D
RLOW WATER LIGHT
HEATER WIRING DIAGRAMS
CONNECTION DIAGRAM
SCHEM ATIC DIAGRAM
Safety Labels
Read all safety labels on this unit
Heater Wiring Diagram
3” X 8”
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
v
Safety Labels
Read all safety labels on this unit
Warning label for Condenser Vent
5” X 3”
Back Door label
5” X 3”
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
vi
Safety Labels
Read all safety labels on this unit
Warning label on front between doors
4” X 2 3/4”
Field wiring label
2 3/4” X 1”
Hot water label
2 3/4” X 1”
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
vii
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
viii
OUTDOOR WOOD HEATER BEST BURN PRACTICES
1.1. Read and follow all operating instructions supplied by the manufacturer.
2. FUEL USED: Only those listed fuels recommended by the manufacturer of your unit.
Never use the following: trash, plastics, gasoline, rubber, naphtha, household
garbage, material treated with petroleum products (particle board, railroad ties and
pressure treated wood), leaves, paper products, and cardboard.
3. LOADING FUEL: For a more efficient burn, pay careful attention to loading times and
amounts. Follow the manufacturer’s written instructions for recommended loading
times and amounts.
4. STARTERS: Do not use lighter fluids, gasoline, or chemicals.
5. LOCATION: It is recommended that the unit be located with due consideration to the
prevailing wind direction.
6. Always remember to comply with all applicable state and local codes.
Out door Fu rnac e Manu fact ur ers Cau cu s
• Furnace should be located no less than 100 feet from any building not served by
the furnace.
• If located within 100 feet to 300 feet to any building not served by the furnace, it
is recommended that the stack be at least 2 feet higher than the peak of that
building.
Chimney Height Installation Scenario
Building
served by furnace
Building not
served by furnace
Chimney height
should be 2 feet above roof line.
2 feet
Minimum of 100 feet
Acme
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
ix
THE HARDY OUTSIDE WOOD-FIRED HYDRONIC HEATER
How does The Hardy work?
The Hardy Outside Wood-Fired Hydronic heater is designed to save the most energy
and provide the most comfortable heating available. It heats your building by heating a
stainless steel tank filled with water, which surrounds the firebox of the outside heater.
The heater is basically a non pressurized boiler with an atmospheric vent. This hot
water is then circulated through underground hot water pipes to a water coil inside your
existing central duct system. The Hardy Hydronic Heater can be connected to any
existing hydronic heating system that operates at 180 degrees or less.
How do the thermostat controls work?
The only visible addition to the heating system inside the building is a thermostat which
is located near the existing thermostat. The two thermostats are installed so that if the
outside wood heater is not in operation, your existing unit will automatically take over to
maintain the building temperature. The wall thermostat which regulates the heat from
the outside heater performs two functions; when it senses the need for heat, it turns
the water pump on to circulate the hot water through the coil and also turns the blower
on inside your central unit to force air across the hot coil. This forces hot air into your
central duct system. The outside heater has a hot water thermostat which senses the
water temperature of the unit. If the water is not as hot as the thermostat setting then
the combustion air intake is automatically opened and remains open until such
temperature is attained.
What are acceptable installations?
These units are designed and approved for installation in light commercial
environments. In accordance to Federal New Source Performance Standards (NSPS)
for New Residential Hydronic Heaters these units are not for sale, installation, or
operation in a residential application.
Where should The Hardy be located?
The outside unit should be located at least 10 feet from the building be served so that
all fire danger is removed. The unit may be installed as much as 100 feet away and still
heat the building . If the unit is located more than 100 feet away, you may experience
some heat loss and require larger supply and return lines to maintain proper flow rates.
Locate the heater where it will be convenient for refueling and wood storage. All water
and power lines are installed underground between the building and the heater.
8-6 Automatic water fill Replacement Instructions ....... 51-52
8-7 Aqua stat Replacement Instructions...................... 53-55
(MODEL LC300, LC500 & LC2500)
xii
SECTION I
GENERAL INFORMATION
1-1 Specifications
Type of fuel – Clean Seasoned Hard Wood - Clean wood means wood that has no
paint, stains, or other types of coatings, and wood that has not been treated with
preservatives, including but not limited to, copper chromium arsenate, creosote, or
pentachlorophenol.
On the front of your heater there is a nameplate. Along with other information you will
find the model number of your heater. This model number tells you what your heater
rating is and what electrical and plumbing options your heater has, use the following
list to determine this. The first section determines the rating of your heater. The second
section determines electrical options. The last section determines the plumbing
options. For example heater model number LC300-1-07. The LC300 designates that
you have a 120,000 BTU heater. The 1 in the second section designates that you have
a standard pump. The 0 in the last section designates that you have no hot water coil.
The 7 in the last section designates that you have extra ports on your heater.
0 – Without a Pump
1 – Standard Pump
2 – 2nd Pump & Relay
3 – 3rd Pump & Relay
4 – Without a Pump for Heating System
and with Circulating Hot Water
5 – With a Standard Pump for Heating System and with Circulating Hot Water
6 – With 2nd Pump and Relay and with
Circulating Hot Water
7 – With 3rd Pump and Relay and with
Circulating Hot Water
Plumbing Options
0 – Without Hot Water
1 – Standard Hot Water
2 – With 2nd Heat Exchanger (2nd Hot Water or
Swimming Pool heat exchanger)
3 – With 3rd Heat Exchanger (2nd Hot Water and
Swimming Pool Heat Exchanger)
4 – Extra 60’ copper in Hot Water
5 – Extra 60’ copper in Hot Water
and Swimming Pool Heat Exchanger
6 – 1” Heat Exchanger –2 – 60’ Rolls 3/4” Copper Manifold to 1” Ports
7 – Extra Ports, 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”, etc.
8 – Optional External Plate & Circulator
9 – Optional automatic water fill
The Hardy Hydronic Heater must be located outside the building to be heated. The unit
must be located a minimum of 10 feet from the building. The unit should be installed
upon a concrete pad. There are two typical installation options that we recommend.
Option 1 has the unit installed on concrete pad with the rear of the water tank flush with
the end of the pad. We recommend the pad to be 48” wide and 53” long minimum. If
you add extra length it will allow ample concrete in front of the heater for loading wood
and removing ashes. The space between the rear of the unit and the outside cover will
allow a 4” watertight pipe or other means to insulate the plumbing and electrical lines to
run directly into the ground. The outside cover can be removed by lifting it off the water
tank on all four corners. This will allow you easy access for the connection of the
plumbing and electrical lines.
Option 2 illustrates the unit installed on a concrete pad with cut out in the pad for
plumbing and electrical lines to run through. We recommend this pad to be 48” wide by
60” long minimum. If you add extra length it will allow ample concrete in front of the
heater for loading wood and removing the ashes. The 4” watertight pipe or other
means to insulate plumbing that runs underground exits through this cut out to allow
connections to the unit. The unit sits on the pad with the rear of the water tank flush or
even with the front side of the cutout. The outside cover of the heater can be removed
by lifting it from the water tank on all four corners. This will allow you easy access for
the plumbing and electrical connections.
Please see the illustration below for details.
2-2 Chimney Connection
Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
After placing your new Hardy Hydronic Heater upon the concrete pad, you are ready to
continue the installation process. There are two methods to gain access to the rear of
the heater to make plumbing and electrical connections.
The first and easiest method is to remove the screw holding the back door panel in
place. The door is easily removed by lifting up on the handle and taking it out. With the
back door removed, using a 5/16” wrench, remove the eight metal screws that are
located below the back door. There are four on each side that hold the panel in place.
After the screws are removed, the panel should come out easily and allow access to
the bottom of the unit to make plumbing and electrical connections.
The second method is the removal of the entire cover. With the back door, the
rectangular piece of stainless, insulation between the fire box and ash doors removed,
and unplug the low water light, the outside cover can be lifted up and off as seen in the
picture. To replace the cover simply repeat these steps in reverse order.
On the Hardy model LC300, open the firebox door and remove everything from inside
of the heater except the two I-beams and three grates. Stand the two I-beams up on
the edge and slide over against the tabs on either side of the ash pan. The grates can
now be placed on the I-beams in line and side to side. The picture below shows the
proper way for grates to be set on the I-Beams.
These grates are designed to be turned over if they warp.
On the Hardy model LC500 there will be two channel beams and one I-beam with the
ends cut at a 45 degree angle. There will also be six grates. Stand the channel beams
on edge with the open side to the inside, and slide them over against the sides of the
firebox. The I-beam will need to be set on edge with the longer edge on top and placed
in the center of the firebox. The grates may then be placed on either side of the I-beam
across to the channel beams, three to a side.
See the picture below for proper set-up.
There is also a stainless steel flame baffle (15” x 10”) in the LC500 heater. This flame
baffle is inserted in the firebox across the 3/4” stainless steel pipes located directly
On the Hardy Model LC2500 first open the firebox door and remove everything
from inside the heater except the air tube, two channel beams, the welded steel
baffle, and the 3/8” steel plate. Stand the two channel beams up on the edge with
flat side of channel over against the sides of the fire box.
Slide the 3/8” steel plate in the firebox across the air tube and channel beams
under the drop down section of the fire box against the back wall. Install the grates
across the air tube and the channel beams inline and end to end in front of the 3/8”
steel plate. Stand the steel flame baffle up with the 5” support legs on the bottom
facing the front of the heater. The openings should be facing and pushed against
the drop down section. The picture below shows the proper way for grates, flame
baffle and 3/8” steel plate to be installed. These grates are designed to be turned
The plumbing and electrical lines for your unit must be installed underground. The
water lines must be buried below the frost line to prevent freezing. The depth of the
trench varies to different regions of the country. Be completely sure about the correct
depth before the plumbing lines are installed underground. A trench must be dug wide
enough to accommodate a 4” watertight pipe or other insulation means. All plumbing
and electrical lines should be run inside the 4” watertight pipe or other insulation
means for a standard installation. If more than one zone is to be heated or more than
one location is to be heated then an additional pipe, or insulation must be installed
underground. This pipe will run from the rear of the unit to the location to be heated.
Inside the 4” watertight pipe will be the four water lines, thermostat wire, and electrical
supply wire. The listing below describes each line and their function.
1. One cold water supply line (if heater has auto fill option).
2. One water supply line to heating system.
3. One water return line from heating system
(All of these must be at least 3/4” pipe and may require 1” because of longer distances or some hydronic applications).
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician
in accordance with the National Electrical Code.
The #12/2 W/G UF wire is run from the electrical system in the Building through the 4”
watertight pipe or other insulation means to the heater.
This wire will connect to the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) on the back of the
heater.
Install a Romex Connector in the bottom of the electrical makeup box, and insert
Romex wire through this connector.
Connect the black wire to the brass screw on the line side of the GFCI receptacle.
Connect the white wire to the silver screw on the line side of the GFCI receptacle
Connect the bare copper wire to the green screw on the GFCI receptacle.
After the wiring is complete, and power is applied, check the receptacle with a circuit
tester to determine if the polarity is correct, and to make sure the ground is connected.
Press the test button on the GFCI receptacle. The reset button should pop out
indicating the interrupter is operating correctly. Push the reset button back to restore
the GFCI receptacle to normal operation. This test should be done monthly to insure
safe operation of the heater.
If moisture is allowed into the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter box, it will have a
tendency to trip unwarranted. Measures should be taken to keep the box dry.
Heater with Hull and stacks
removed to show connections.
Air Flow
Air Flow
Air Must be
Filtered before
passing through
Heating Coil.
Vertical
Flow
System
SECTION III
PLUMBING INSTRUCTIONS
3-1 Instructions for Forced Air Systems
The pipe that will supply the heating system is connected to the under side of the
pump. This pump is located on the right hand side of the heater (noted by # 3 in
diagram.)
The pipe that will carry the return water from the heating system is connected to the
3/4” brass tee located at the bottom left hand corner of the heater (noted by # 4 in
diagram).
These two (2) lines will go to the heat exchanger coil that mounts into the duct work of
your forced air heating system. For best results connect the line from the pump to the
fitting of the heat exchanger closest to the side of the heat exchanger that the air is
leaving. Connect the return line to the heat exchanger on the side that the air is
entering.
Water pipes must be designed for hot water service (ex. copper, cpvc, or Pex.)
Pipes should be installed in a 4” watertight pipe or some other type of insulating
means to prevent heat loss from heater to heating system. Use only copper,
brass, or stainless steel fittings. Do not use galvanized or black iron.
Heater with Hull and stacks
removed to show connections.
Hardy
P/N 300.01
40 Plate Heat
Exchanger
with 1" fittings
The preferred method for connecting the Hardy Hydronic Heater to an existing
Hydronic system is by installing a p/n 300.01- 40 plate heat exchanger with 1” fittings
into the return line of the existing boiler system. This will allow the existing boiler to
remain a pressurized system. This can be done by installing a shutoff valve and two
bypass lines in the heating systems return line. Install service valves into each of the
bypass lines. (Refer to diagram below).
Run two -1” hot water lines ( suitable for continuous flow ) from the pump and return of
the heater to the existing boiler system. Connect these lines to the plate heat
exchanger so that the water flow of the heater is opposite of that from the boiler
system. Bypass the relay on the pump to allow the pump on the heater to run
continuous.
Water pipes must be designed for hot water service (ex. copper, cpvc, or Pex.)
Pipes should be installed in a 4” watertight pipe or some other type of insulating
means to prevent heat loss from heater to heating system. Use only copper,
brass, or stainless steel fittings. Do not use galvanized or black iron.
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician
in accordance with the National Electrical Code.
Using a new 24 volt transformer, a new 24 volt relay, and a low voltage wall thermostat
the following wiring diagram shows how to modify the existing boiler aqua stat wiring.
By adding a normal open circuit into the existing aqua stat wiring you can leave the
boiler aqua stat set at the original factory setting. Set the new low voltage wall
thermostat approximately 3 degrees below the wood heat thermostat. If the heater
were to get behind for any reason the boiler can come on and help maintain the
building temperature.
Heater with Hull and stacks
removed to show connections.
H300.02
20 Plate
Heat Exchanger
w/ 3/4" fittings
Close this
valve.
A plate heat exchanger and pump can be added to the Hardy Hydronic Heater to add
hot water heating to the Models LC300, LC500 & LC2500. This plate heat exchanger
will provide preheated water to the water heater. The preferred method is to mount a
plate heat exchanger at the water heater and connect it as shown in the following
diagram. The pump will circulate heater water through the plate continuously. The cold
water supply will need to be connected to the opposite side of the plate heat
exchanger and flowing in the opposite direction for maximum efficiency. The alternate
method would be to mount the plate heat exchanger on the back of the heater and
connect the water heater to the plate the same way as in the preferred method with
counter flowing waters.
Water pipes must be designed for hot water service (ex. copper, cpvc, or Pex.)
Pipes should be installed in a 4” watertight pipe or some other type of insulating
means to prevent heat loss from heater to heating system. Use only copper,
brass, or stainless steel fittings. Do not use galvanized or black iron.
If you removed the hull to aid in plumbing the back of the heater it is time to place the
hull back on the heater. The space between the smoke stack ring and outside cover
will need a bead of silicone applied to fill any openings. The condenser tank will also
need to be sealed in this manner. The application of silicone to these openings is
illustrated by the diagram and pictures below. After these steps, you can install the
smoke stack. The trim should slide down the smoke stack until it sits on the outside
cover. The condenser stack must also be installed in the condenser tank opening. The
trim should slide down the condenser stack until it sits on the outside cover. You
should have a piece of insulation and a stainless steel plate that you removed from the
inside of the firebox earlier. This will install between the firebox door and the ash door.
The insulation fits between the doors and the stainless steel plate will slide behind the
door frames across the outer hull.
Do not seal the condenser tank to the condenser tank stack. This is the water
The Heater must be filled with water before starting a fire.
There are certain parts of the country that have high enough levels of chloride in the
water to be harmful to stainless steel tanks. Even though the USDA allows up to 250
parts per million of chloride (salt) in the water as acceptable for drinking, experience
has shown that chloride levels as low as 45 parts per million will eventually cause
stress corrosion cracking in stainless steel tanks when water is heated. It is therefore
required to use rain water, bottled water, or your water supply with chloride content of
less than 15 parts per million. Call your Hardy dealer to get a chloride test on your
water supply.
Fill your heater with water through the condenser stack opening or when you supply
power to the heater if the heater has the automatic fill option it will fill itself. If the
chloride content of your local water supply exceeds the specifications mentioned
above and necessitates the use of bottled or rain water, please do so to maintain the
warranty of your heater.
There is a low water switch located in a fitting on the back of the heater. This low
water switch operates a low water warning light and automatic water fill solenoid if your
heater has the automatic fill option.
4-1 Connection to Central Unit with Existing Blower Relay
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician in accordance with the National
Turn off all power going to your central air handler system.
You will need to add a double pole / double throw relay to your central air handler.
You will also need a heat only thermostat added to the wall, preferably next to the
existing thermostat. Run a two (2) conductor thermostat wire from the air handler to the
new heat only thermostat that was added to the wall. The normal colors for this wire
are red & white. You will also need a three (3) conductor thermostat wire running from
the air handler to the outside wood heater. The normal colors for this wire are red,
white, & green.
NOTE: If you are not familiar with the control circuit of your central unit, do not continue
beyond this point. Call a heating and air conditioning serviceman to complete the
wiring. Improper wiring can cause excessive electrical usage or cause your blower
motor to over heat and burn out.
Remove the cover on the new wood heat thermostat to mount it on the wall. There is a
round dial visible with an adjustable pointer. This is the heat anticipator. The dial also
has a series of numbers. The pointer must be set to the highest number on the dial. On
the Honeywell model #(t 822-1016), the pointer is turned counter clockwise as far as it
can go. On the thermostat connect the red wire to the screw terminal marked R and
the white wire to the screw terminal marked W.
At the heater, connect the white wire to terminal 8 of the water pump relay (R-3).
Connect the red wire to one side of the low temperature sensor (the round disc with
two terminals under the insulation near the center of the heater approximate 12” from
the top). This is an option that prevents the pumping of water less than 100ºF but is not
required. If you elect not to use this option, then only a two wire conductor is required,
bypassing the low temperature sensor. Connect a jumper wire from the other side of
the low temperature sensor to terminal 7 of the water pump relay (R-3) and also
connect the green wire to terminal 7 of R-3. If only two wires are used then one is
connected to terminal 7 and the other to terminal 8.
4-1 Connection to Central Unit with Existing Blower Relay (continued)
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician in accordance with the National
Electrical Code.
At the air handler inside, find the red wire going from the air handler control wiring to
the original wall thermostat. Cut this wire and connect the end that is going to the wall
thermostat to terminal # 2 on the new relay. The end of the red wire that is still
connected to the control wiring of the air handler will need to be connected to terminal
# 1 along with the new red wire that is going to the new heat only wall thermostat.
Locate the Green wire going from the central air handler control wiring to the original
wall thermostat. Cut this wire. Connect the end of the green wire that is going to the
original wall thermostat to terminal #5 of the new relay. Connect the end of the green
wire that is still connected to the central air handler control wiring to terminal #4.
Connect the white wire going to the new heat only thermostat to the red wire going
outside to the wood heater. Take the green wire that is going outside to the Hardy
Hydronic Heater and along with a short jumper wire (appx. 3” - 4” long) connect to
terminal #7 on the new relay that was added to the air handler. Connect the other end
of this jumper wire to terminal #6 of the relay.
Locate the low voltage transformer that is providing you with 24 volt power. Find the
common lead of this transformer and connect a wire to this lead and to terminal #8 of
the new relay along with the white wire going outside to the Hardy Hydronic Heater .
If all connections are made properly and the water in the Hardy Hydronic Heater is hot,
the unit should be ready for operation.
NOTE: This is a general diagram. You may have to make various changes according
to how your unit is wired. Insure that the compressor on a heat pump or A/C unit does
not run when the wood system is running. Insure that the gas burner, oil burner, or
electric elements do not come on when the wood system is running. Insure that only
one speed of the blower motor can be energized at one time. If more than one speed
is energized at the same time, the blower motor will burn out. Insure that the volt amp
rating of the existing 24 volt transformer is not exceeded when the relays in the Hardy
Hydronic Heater system are energized.
Hardy Manufacturing Company Inc.’s recommended fuel for the Hardy Hydronic Heater
is seasoned dry hard wood. Green wood or wet wood is not recommended for use in the
Hardy Outside Wood-Fired Hydronic Heater.
Never burn the following: trash, plastics, gasoline, rubber, naphtha, household
garbage, material treated with petroleum products (particle board, railroad ties,
and pressure treated wood), leaves, paper products, and cardboard. Never use
starters: Lighter fluids, gasoline, or chemicals.
Once the Hardy Hydronic Heater has been filled with water, you can build a fire. Plug
the two (2) wire power cord into the GFCI receptacle in the back of the heater, this
should open the draft damper and turn on the draft blower. You build a fire in the Hardy
Hydronic Heater the same way you would in any other wood heater. Start out with small
split dry wood. Once you have the small wood lit gradually add more split wood and
gradually increase the size of the wood. Once a bed of coals has been established you
can use larger wood.
5-2 Water Temperature
Mounted on the back of the heater is an aqua stat that controls the draft system of the
heater to maintain a preset temperature. When the fire has heated the water in the tank
to the set aqua stat temperature, normally around 170 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit, the
draft damper and blower will shut down. This allows the fire to smother down to a
smoldering stage. As heat is used and the water temperature drops below the set
temperature the draft damper and draft blower will reenergize to build the fire back to a
heating stage.
Never set this aqua stat below 140 degrees, (this would allow the heater to sweat)
or above 180 degrees (this would bring the heater to close to a overheating point).
5-3 Moisture in the Firebox
During startup of a new heater or the first time you operate an existing heater each year,
you will probably notice moisture in the firebox. This is normal and should not cause
alarm. If after a few days of operation a high moisture content is still evident the heater
should be shut down and checked for leaks.
Any fuels other than those specified will result in poor and erratic heater performance.
This heater is designed to use a minimum amount of fuel but as with any heater of this
type fuel usage is based upon the load and temperature requirements. Refer to the
troubleshooting section located in the appendix for problems associated with excessive
fuel usage or poor heater performance.
5-5 Improper Burning
Improper burning during the normal operation of the heater is usually caused by lack of
combustion air or fuel in the firebox chamber. Check the air passage into the firebox
from the draft blower to make sure there is no blockage, such as ashes built up in front
of the air passage or creosote blocking the opening. Check the damper lid to make
sure it is opening properly. Check to see if the draft blower is running. Also unplug the
power cord and allow the draft blower to stop, then check the blower wheel for any
buildup that could reduce the efficiency of the draft blower. Check to see if the grates
are stopped up. Use a poker to stir the coals and create air holes in the coal bed.
Check the smoke stack for creosote build up. Also on the H4 & H5 models there is a
removable baffle plate directly below the smoke stack inside the firebox that will need
to be removed and cleaned.
5-6 Ash Removal
Ashes must be removed from inside the heater on a routine basis. Excessive ash
buildup inside the Ash box will reduce heating efficiency and can lead to premature
breakdown or warp age of the grates. When you remove the ashes, leave
approximately 1” of ash in the ash bin, this will give the coals that fall through the
grates a bed to fall on, and prevent the coals from warping the ash pan itself. The build
up of ashes in the firebox should be checked at least once a week. Allow the fire to
burn down until the grates can be seen. This insures that the grates are clear. If the
grates do warp slightly they can be flipped and allowed to straighten back out.
5-7 Ash Disposal
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight-fitting lid. The closed container
of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, well away from
all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of by burial
in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
When green wood is used or when wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other
organic vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote
vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result,
creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an
extremely hot fire.
The chimney connector and chimney should be inspected at least twice monthly during
the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.
When working with electrical circuits, use caution to avoid electrical shock
Service on this heater should only be performed
by a qualified service technician.
6-1 Electric Make-Up Water System (Optional )
LOW WATER SWITCH, P/N H1100.28
The low water switch is a horizontally mounted reed switch that has a magnet in the
floating portion of the switch. When the water level is high enough to raise the magnet
up off of the reed switch this allows the switch to break contact, and discontinue power
to the water solenoid. When the water level drops the floating portion of the low water
switch the magnet will once again come into close proximity of the reed switch and
close the contacts allowing power to be applied to the water solenoid. If this switch is
working in an opposite order to this it will need to be tightened another 180 degrees to
allow the switch to operate correctly. Never add any additional load to this switch since
it is only rated for 30 watts.
LOW WATER LIGHT, P/N H1100.30
115 VAC indicator light controlled by the float switch. The light comes on when the
water level in the heater is low.
ELECTRIC WATER SOLENOID, P/N H1100.00
115 VAC electric solenoid controlled by the float switch. This solenoid keeps the heater
full of water by allowing water to fill the heater when the float switch closes.
WATER FILTER, P/N H1100.55
A 100 mesh filter washer is located in the 1/2” x 1/4” brass hex bushing at the solenoid.
It is inserted with the cone of the screen pointed out. Filter washers are always placed
where the cone points toward the water flow. It can be removed for cleaning.
LOW TEMPERATURE SENSOR, P/N H2000.36
This sensor can be wired in the wood heat thermostat circuit to prevent the pump from
running when the water in the Hardy Hydronic Heater is not hot. The sensor has a set
of contacts that close when the water rises to 110ºF and open when the water drops to
90ºF.
WATER PUMP RELAY, P/N H2000.52
This is a Honeywell DPDT relay with a 24 volt coil. Terminal 4 and 6 (normally open
contacts) are used to turn on the water pump. Control voltage (24 volts) connected at
terminals 7 and 8 routed through a thermostat energizes the relay.
WATER PUMP FOR HEATING SYSTEM, Taco 009 pump P/N H502.50
with stainless steel body. If the pump will not run, first unplug the power cord then
check the water pump relay. The relay can be bypassed by moving the wire on
terminal 6 to terminal 5 (terminals 4 to 5 is normally closed) and disconnecting the
thermostat wire from terminal 8. Now plug the power cord back in. This should supply
115 vac directly to the pump. If the pump will still not run, unplug the power cord.
Remove the four bolts holding the pump to the pump housing. Remove the cartridge
from the pump. Spin the impeller if it will not spin, replace the cartridge. If the impeller
will spin, it may have been temporarily stuck (reassemble and try again) or the problem
is the electrical winding or capacitor. Use an ohm meter to check the winding and
capacitor. If the capacitor is defective, replace it. If the electrical winding is defective,
replace the complete pump.
DAMPER AQUA STAT, P/N H2000.08 (LC300 & LC500) or H2000.16 (LC2500)
This thermostat has a probe that is inserted in a well fitting in the water tank of the
Hardy Hydronic Heater . It has one set of contacts that open on a temperature rise and
close on a temperature fall. This thermostat is normally set between 170ºF to 175ºF. It
controls the damper solenoid and the forced air draft. If the damper solenoid and
forced air draft will not operate, place a jumper wire across the thermostat terminals. If
they operate when the thermostat is jumpered out, and the temperature of the water in
the heater is below the set point on the thermostat, the thermostat is defective. Do not
leave the jumper on the thermostat because the heater will overheat.
DAMPER SOLENOID, P/N H 2001.05
This solenoid lifts the cover off the intake to the forced air draft blower. The solenoid is
controlled by the damper thermostat. It should lift the cover when the forced air blower
comes on and drop the cover after the blower goes off. If the solenoid does not drop
the cover when the blower goes off, the solenoid should be replaced. The forced air
draft intake cover must be in place when the blower is not running or the heater will
overheat and cause excessive wood usage.
FORCED AIR DRAFT BLOWER, P/N H2002.16(28)
The Hardy Hydronic Heater must be installed outdoors to maintain proper air for
combustion. The draft blower will draw fresh air from under the outer hull and from
around the cracks of the door jamb and back door. If the blower wheel or the intake to
the blower is clogged, the blower will not deliver the proper amount of air to the fire.
The blower can be disassembled and cleaned. Be sure to seal the blower motor back
to the blower housing if the blower is disassembled. The motor should be oiled at the
beginning of each heating season. When the heater is not in use, the power cord for
the blower should be unplugged.
Preventative maintenance can provide improvements in system performance as well
as a marked reduction in comfort complaints. The customer should perform
preventative maintenance actions to avoid unnecessary shutdown time and save
repair expenses.
Preventative Maintenance Checklist:
Ground Fault Interrupter Receptacle > Test monthly to insure proper and safe
operation. (a) Check with a circuit tester to determine if the polarity is correct. (b) Press
the test button, the reset button should pop out indicating the interrupter has tripped.
Press the reset button to restore to normal operation.
Heater Piping > Check all piping occasionally on back of heater for any possible water
leaks. Water leaks on heater components can cause electrical shorts, damage to
component parts and insulation.
Low Water Light >Check the low water warning light each week for proper operation to
avoid low water or over filling in heater with electric make-up water systems. See
service information (section VI) in owners manual for approved procedures.
Ash Bin > Keep ash bin from ash buildup. Remove ashes before they build up to the
level of the grates. This will restrict proper air flow and cause the grates to warp. Leave
at least 1/2” to 1” of ashes in bottom of ash pan to protect the bottom from burnout.
Damper/Draft System and Smoke Stack > Check at least every two weeks for build up
of ash, tar, or any other material that could restrict the amount of air flow required. Oil
the blower motor bearings prior to each heating season with 10 to 20 drops of electric
motor oil.
Door Seals > Check firebox door and ash door seals occasionally for damage or
obstructions that would affect an airtight seal.
The Hardy Hydronic Heater is designed for ease of operation and service. There is
maintenance that has to be done for proper operation of your new unit. Each year,
before the heating season begins, you should check your heater to insure that
everything is ready for the heating season.
ELECTRIC MAKE-UP WATER – Turn on the cold water supply to the heater. Plug in
the power cord. Check the float switch operation by lifting up and pushing down on the
float. When you push the float down it should activate the electric water solenoid and
allow water to enter the heater water tank. When you lift up on the float it should
deactivate the water solenoid, stopping the water. Also make sure the float will float up
on its own when the water level is high enough. After checking the float and solenoid
operation, you should be able to determine if either of these components will require
replacement. Next, turn off the cold water supply and remove the screen filter. This
filter is located in the 1/2” x 1/4” brass bushing between the 1/2” brass ball valve and
the electric solenoid valve. Clean this filter or replace it. Reinstall the screen filter,
making sure the cone point of the screen is pointing towards the incoming water. Turn
the cold water supply back on.
WATER QUALITY – The Hardy Hydronic Heater is designed not to lose heater water
through evaporation. At times during the year, accidental overheating can occur, and
the water will evaporate. The evaporation causes a concentration of chlorides (salts)
and other minerals. To protect your heater from this build up of chlorides (salts) and
other minerals, we recommend to drain your heater each year at time of startup for the
heating season and refill with rain water or bottled water with a chloride concentration
of less than 15 parts per million. This will add to the life of your stainless steel tank.
DAMPER AND DRAFT SYSTEM – When you plugged in the power cord, the damper
solenoid should have opened the draft lid on the draft blower. The forced air draft
blower should also have come on. If both of these components are working correctly,
unplug the power cord. Open the clean out lid beside the draft blower and check for
any build up of ash, tar, or any other material that could restrict the amount of
combustion air entering the heater. Check the seal on the clean out lid to assure a
good air tight seal is still established. Lift the damper lid on the draft blower and inspect
the blower wheel for any build up of lint, dust, creosote, or any other substance that
could affect the performance of the draft blower. Spray the damper lid hinge, and the
damper solenoid plunger with WD-40, or its equivalent. Oil the draft blower motor with
electric motor oil, or 10 weight no detergent motor oil. Do no use WD-40, or machine
oil. Check the grates inside the heater to see if there is any ash build up or if the grates
are warped. If a grate does warp, lift that grate up and turn it over. Also at this time
check the smoke stack for blockage, and the flame/baffles in the CL500 & CL2500
models.
WATER PUMP – Unplug the power cord going to the water pump. Close the valve
above the water pump and the return water valve at the bottom of the heater. Remove
the pump motor from the pump housing by removing the four bolts in the pump
housing. Remove the impeller cartridge assembly from the pump housing. Check the
impeller to determine that it is free by spinning the impeller in the cartridge. Check the
pump housing for rust or any other build up that could impede the flow of water.
Reassemble the water pump, making sure the “O” ring in the cartridge is seated right.
Once the pump is reinstalled, open the water valve above the pump and the return
valve.
GASKETS - Check all door seals. To replace a door seal remove the door and frame
from the heater. Pull out old seal and clean the door and frame of all old silicone. Put
two small beads of silicone in the gasket area of the door and install rope into this area
starting at one corner. New rope seals are 5/8” diameter and 64” length for the fire box
door, and 48” length for the ash door. Work the rope down smooth all the way around
the door and cut off excess rope. Fill in the corner gaps with silicone, allow to dry
before seating against the frame. To reinstall the door, clean the frame of the heater of
all old silicone. Put a generous bead of silicone on the heater door frame being sure to
fill the corner joints with the silicone. Reinstall the door into the same screw holes.
Tighten all screws, wipe off any silicone that might have squeezed out.
Check the gasket on the clean out lid on the air tube in back of the heater. To replace
the gasket on the clean out lid first remove old gasket completely. Put a generous
bead of silicone on the back side of the lid where it will be coming into contact with the
square air tube going into the heater. Place a piece of wax paper across the silicone to
prevent it from sticking to anything other than the lid. Spray the wax paper with a
misting of water to allow the paper to become more flexible. Close the lid down gently
onto the air tube, lift back up to check for a indent into the paper and silicone seal. If
indent has wrinkles in the paper gently lift the paper away from the silicone to
straighten back out and set lid back down to form the seal again. You may have to do
this step a couple of times until you get a good seal. Once the seal has been formed,
let the lid rest on the air tube until silicone seal has cured.
7-3 In Season Maintenance
WATER LEVEL- Monitor water level in the heater by removing the condenser stack
and looking inside the water tank. You should be able to see the low water switch
inside the splash guard in the water tank. The low water switch is a horizontally
mounted reed switch that has a magnet in the floating portion of the switch. When the
water level is high enough to raise the magnet up off of the reed switch this allows the
switch to break contact, and discontinues power to the water solenoid and low water
light. When the water level drops the floating portion of the low water switch the
magnet will once again come into close proximity of the reed switch and close the
contacts allowing power to be applied to the water solenoid and low water light. On
models that do not have automatic fill the low water switch turns on power to the low
water light only. The heater water level will need to be corrected manually by adding
water to the condenser tank area until the low water light goes out. It is recommended
that you check this water level at least once a week while the heater is in operation.
ASH REMOVAL- Ashes must be removed from inside the heater on a routine basis.
Excessive ash buildup inside the ash box will reduce heating efficiency and can lead to
premature breakdown or warp age of the grates. When you remove the ashes, leave
approximately 1” of ash in the ash bin, this will give the coals that fall through the
grates a bed to fall on and prevent the coals from warping the ash pan itself. The build
up of ashes in the firebox should be checked at least once a week. Allow the fire to
burn down until the grates can be seen. This insures that the grates are clear. If the
grates do warp slightly they can be flipped and allowed to straighten back out.
AIR PASSAGE- After you remove the ashes from the heater you need to check the
total air passage (from blower to stack ). Unplug the two wire power cord so the blower
will not accidentally come on while you are checking it. Raise the damper lid up on the
blower to check the blower wheel for any build up or obstructions. Raise the cleanout
lid on the main air tube going into the back of the heater. Check the clean out for
blockage, such as creosote build up or ashes. Check the grates for build up on top of
grates that could block the flow of air to the fire. Check the smoke stack for creosote
build up. In the CL500 model there is a baffle plate mounted in the fire box directly
below the smoke stack. This baffle plate can be removed for cleaning. This baffle plate
is laying across two (2) pipes in the top of the fire box and can be slid to either side for
removal. Any obstruction of the exhaust gases or the supply air to the fire will make the
heater not perform correctly. On the CL2500 Model the baffle is standing up across the
back of the fire box with the channels facing the back wall of the firebox. Make sure all
channels are clear and unobstructed. When finished checking and/or cleaning plug in
the power cord to put heater back in service.
7-4 Post Season Maintenance
Preplan when you want to shut your system down. Allow your heater to burn
completely out of fuel and cool down. Turn off power to the heater. Unplug all power
cords in the back of the heater. Clean out all ashes from the ash bin area and any build
up of ashes and creosote from the firebox area. Remove the grates and support
beams to facilitate in this cleaning. Once the heater has been cleaned out, replace the
support beams and grates back into the heater. On the LC500 model remove and
clean the baffle plate in the top of the fire box, and clean out the smoke stack. On the
LC2500 Model clean the stand up baffle in the rear of the fire box, and clean above the
flat plate behind the baffle.
Check electrical
connections for bad
connections or corrosion.
Clean, dry and then retest
for proper operation.
8-1 GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE
Complaint Area of Trouble Possible Causes Corrective Action
No Heat
Main power
supply and
ground fault
interrupter
receptacle
“OK”
Water
temperature
is “HOT”
Pump performance Unplug pump and bypass relay by tying relay
wires #4 and #6 together. Plug pump back in.
Pump does not run 1. Defective pump
cartridge
2. Defective pump
capacitor
3. Defective pump
motor winding
1. Unplug pump. Remove
pump. Pull cartridge
from pump and spin
impeller by hand. If
impeller will not spin,
replace cartridge.
2. Use ohm meter. When
the meter is connected
to the capacitor, the
needle should jump
towards “0” ohms and
slowly drift back to
infinity. Replace if
defective.
3. Disconnect the wires
connected to the motor
terminals to test the
motor independent of
electrical connections.
Check for ground and
continuity with ohm
meter. The insulator of
the windings should
show no breakage. If it
does, replace pump
Corrective Action Possible Cause Complaint Area of Trouble
No Heat
Main power
supply and
ground fault
interrupter
receptacle
“OK”
Water
temperature
is “HOT”
Pump Performance Unplug pump and bypass relay by tying relay
wires #4 and #6 together. Plug pump back in.
Pump does run 1. Defective 24 volt
transformer
2. Defective wall
thermostat
(heater)
3. Defective low
temperature
sensor
4. Defective pump
relay
1. Located at existing
central unit. If 120/230
volts is being supplied
to primary side check
for 24 volts on
secondary. If 24 volts
not present, replace
transformer.
2. Located inside
building. Remove
cover. Check for 24
volts. Level the
mounting base. Blow
dust from sensing
bimetal. Adjust heat
anticipator. See
owners manual
connection
instructions.
3. If heater is up to
temperature (over 140°
f.), remove wires on
sensor and connect to
each other to bypass.
If pump runs replace
low temperature
sensor.
4. Check relay terminals
#7 & #8 for 24 volts. If
24 volts is present, use
ohm meter to check
contacts. Connect ohm
meter to terminals #4
& #6. If no reading
replace relay.
Corrective Action Possible Cause Complaint Area of Trouble
No Heat
Main power
supply and
ground fault
interrupter
receptacle
“OK”
Water
temperature is
“COLD”
Aqua stat
Damper solenoid
Forced air draft
blower motor
Defective Aqua stat Unplug power cord.
Connect the two wires on
the aqua stat together.
Plug in power cord. If
blower and damper
solenoid operates, replace
aqua stat.
Defective damper
solenoid
When bypassing aqua
stat, if solenoid does not
lift the lid off the intake to
the forced air draft blower,
replace the solenoid.
Defective blower
motor
1. Defective
electrical wiring
2. Air passage
stoppage
3. Blower wheel
clogged
1. Make sure all
connections are
secure.
2. Clear air passages in
cleanout and damper
blower outlets.
3. Clear blower wheel of
any lint, ashes or
creosote buildup.
Ash bin Ash buildup in ash
bin
Heater stack Ash and creosote
buildup
Clean out ash bin. Ash
bin should be cleaned out
each week. Ash buildup
on grates can cause
grates to warp. If grates
warp they can be turned
over and allowed to
straighten. When
removing ashes, leave at
least 1” of ashes in
bottom of ash pan.
Clean heater stack of
any ash and creosote
buildup. On LC500
models make sure the
baffle plate is clear of
ash and creosote
buildup. Make sure
baffle is in place,
otherwise heat will be
Corrective Action Possible Cause Complaint Area of Trouble
No Heat
Water Level is
“LOW”
Water
temperature is
“HOT”
Main power
supply and
Ground Fault
Interrupter
Receptacle
“OK”
Water supply
Water solenoid
valve
Defective Liquid
Level Switch.
1. Defective
solenoid valve
2. Water filter
Liquid level switch
controls the water level
indicator light and water
solenoid valve. Check
switch with hand by
raising or lowering float
inside the condenser
area. If water solenoid
does not click and light
does not go on and off,
replace the liquid level
switch.
1. If water solenoid valve
does not click when
checking the liquid
level switch, but level
indicator light does
come on – replace
solenoid valve.
COMPLAINT AREA OF TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTIVE ACTION
Excessive
wood usage
Or
Overheating
(boiling)
Excessive wood
usage
1. Defective liquid
level switch
2. Solenoid valve
stuck or corroded
1. Check liquid level
switch float for
position, float should
float up as the heater
fills with water. Check
switch by pivoting float
up and down to see if
solenoid clicks and
light goes on and off,
if not replace switch.
2. If solenoid does click
and the heater still
overflows, it could be
stuck in open position,
1Remove top cover to expose electrical connections.
2
If using an analog ohm meter, check the resistance
across the two capacitor leads. The meter should
immediately read "0" ohms then slowly drift to infinity.
Reverse the test leads and check meter reading. The
test procedure is the same for a digital multimeter
except the meter will show some resistance then return
to "OL" (open line). To replace capacitor, cut away
existing wire nut connectors. Strip leads and connect
with wire nut connector suitable for two(2) 16 AWG
wires.
3Replace cover.
Testing Pump Motor Winding
1
Disconnect power cord from motor wiring. Using an
ohm meter or continuity tester, check the continuity
across each power wire and also check each power
wire to ground. If the the pump does not show continuity
across the two power wires or if either power wire
shows continuity to ground the winding is defective and
the pump should be replaced.
Remove female quick connect terminals from damper
solenoid.
2
Using needle nose pliers, open top link in lift chain and
remove from solenoid.
3
Using a 5/16" wrench or other suitable tool, remove the
three screws holding the Damper Solenoid to the
electrical panel.
4
Install new damper solenoid in reverse order. Make
sure chain is straight above the flapper lifter as shown.
There should be tension in the chain when the flapper is
in the down position.
Open the tank drain valves until the water level is below
the float switch.
2
Remove plastic wire tie located near float switch. Cut
the switch wires approx. 6 inches from the rear of the
the float switch. On models with the automatic water fill
option do not cut the power wires for the solenoid.
Using an adjustable wrench or other suitable tool
remove the float switch from the heater.
3
Looking at the wrench flats on the switch there are two
directional arrows located on the side as shown. For
the switch to operate correctly it will have to be oriented
with the arrow pointed down when installed.
4
Apply pipe joint compound liberally around the threads
of the switch. Using an adjustable wrench or other
suitable tool install the switch in the tank. Do not
overtighten. Make sure the switch is oriented with the
arrow pointing down.
8-4 Low Water Switch Replacement Instructions (continued)
Step #
Operation DescriptionVisual Aids/Comments
5
Connect new switch wiring to existing wiring using
suitable wire nut.
6
Reconnect power to furnace. On models with the
automatic water fill option allow the unit to fill above the
float switch. If the automatic water fill and low water
indicator mounted on side of hull does not turn off when
the water reaches the correct level, the switch is
possibly not oriented correctly. On units without the
automatic water fill option, fill the tank until the water
level is above the float switch. The low water light
mounted on the left side of the hull should turn off when
the water is at this level. If the light does not go out the
switch is possibly oriented incorrectly.
Remove the plastic cable tie and disconnect the blower
power wires as shown. Remove damper lifter ring from
blower flapper lifter. Using a 5/16" wrench or other
suitable tool, remove the blower electrical box cover.
2
Slide a flat head screwdriver into plastic romex
connector and lift up wedge clamp. Pull blower power
wires through clamp. Remove clamp by pressing on
locking tang with a flat head screwdriver and pulling
away from blower.
3
Loosen and remove the three flange screws. Remove
blower from heater.
4
Place new flange gasket onto blower flange. Align
holes on gasket with holes in flange. Start inner screw
but do not tighten.
5
Position blower over gasket. Tighten inner screw to
hold blower in position, then install and tighten the two
outer screws.
Install damper lifting ring into the damper lid as shown.
7
Using a 5/16" wrench or other suitable tool, remove the
cover from the blower electrical box and set aside.
Using pliers or other suitable tool, remove the right
knockout and install the plastic romex connector.
8
Push blower power wires through connector. Replace
blower electrical box cover. Using pliers press the
wedge clamp into place.
9
Connect power wires and install plastic cable tie if
available.
10
Verify blower is firmly attached to flange and damper
flapper will lift freely.
If you are replacing the water fill solenoid then cut wires
to automatic water fill approx. 4" to 6" from rear of fill
solenoid as shown. Cut only if solenoid is to be
replaced.
2
Firmly pull solenoid up and away from switch post as
shown. If you are replacing the solenoid then discard.
Otherwise set the solenoid aside for later installation. If
you are not replacing the water fill valve then skip to
step # 8.
3
Using an adjustable wrench loosen and remove the flex
line fitting from solenoid assembly and set aside.
4
Using an adjustable wrench or other suitable tool
remove the automatic water fill assembly from heater.
Remove the brass elbow, 1/2"x1/4" bushing and 1/4"
close nipple from the assembly. These parts will be
reused on the new assembly.
5
Clean the screen inside the 1/2"x1/4" brass bushing
prior to re-installation using warm soapy water.
8-6 Automatic Water Fill Replacement Instructions (continued)
Step #Operation DescriptionVisual Aids/Comments
6
Note: The automatic water fill valve has an arrow
stamped in the housing showing the direction of flow.
The valve has to be installed with the arrow in the
correct direction for the valve to operate properly.
7
Apply pipe thread sealant to the threads of the fitting
removed in step 5. Install the fittings and the new valve
assembly on the heater as shown. Care should be
taken to make sure no excess pipe sealant gets into the
screen during assembly. This wil result in reduced water
flow. The brass elbow should point slightly forward.
8
Using a pipe wrench or other suitable tool turn the tee
approx. 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until the assembly is
parallel with the rear of the furnace. Reinstall the flex
line fitting and tighten hand tight plus approx. 1/2 turn.
Do not over tighten the flex line to prevent damage to
the inner bushing.
9
Slide solenoid over valve stem and press firmly into
place. Make sure spring retainer clip on solenoid
latches into groove in top of valve stem.
10
If replacing the solenoid strip wires approx. 1/2" and
connect using wire nut suitable for 2 #16 AWG wires
(orange) as shown. These wires are not polarity
sensitive.
Using a 1/4" nut driver or flat head screwdriver loosen
the cover screw located at the bottom of the thermostat
and then remove cover.
2
Loosen the two screws on the wire clamp and then
using a flat head screwdriver depress the locking tabs
holding the clamp in place. Gently pull the wire clamp
down and away from the thermostat body.
3
Pull on the thermostat capillary tube to make sure that
the bulb has not been damaged during heater
operation. Make sure the bulb is not lodged in the well
fitting. If the bulb is lodged the well fitting will have to be
replaced.
4
Fold back the terminal block protector. Loosen the two
screws on the terminal block and remove the two
thermostat wires. Pull the wires through the wiring hole
and lay aside.
5
Loosen the two screws on the thermostat clamp. Gently
lift the thermostat away from the well fitting. If the bulb is
lodged in the well fitting cut the capillary tube using a
wire cutter or other suitable tool. If the well fitting does
not require replacement then skip to step # 10.
8-7 Honeywell Aqua Stat Replacement Instructions (continued)
Step #Operation DescriptionVisual Aids/Comments
6
Open the heater tank drain valves and allow the furnace
tank to drain until the tank water level is below the
thermostat level.
7
Using an adjustable wrench remove the well fitting from
the rear of the furnace.
8
Apply pipe joint compound to the threads of the new
well fitting and then screw the fitting into the rear of the
furnace. Use an adjustable wrench to tighten the fitting.
9
Remove the cover from the new thermostat. Loosen the
two screws on the thermostat clamp. Make sure the
clamp is loose enough to slide over the notch in the well
fitting.
10
Slide the bulb into the well fitting. Position the
thermostat so that the thermostat well hole is centered
over the well, the thermostat is perpendicular to the
ground and the clamp is engaged in the groove of the
well fitting. Tighten the two well clamp screws. Do not
over tighten the clamp screws.
8-7 Honeywell Aqua Stat Replacement Instructions (continued)
Step #Operation DescriptionVisual Aids/Comments
11
Pull thermostat wires through wiring hole. Place
terminals on studs in terminal block and tighten in place.
Using a flat head screwdriver or other suitable object lift
the locking tabs on the wire clamp then push the wire
clamp into the wiring hole. Using a flat head
screwdriver tighten the two clamp screws.
12
Verify the thermostat temperature setting is correct.
The correct value is written on the front cover. The dial
can be adjusted using a flat head screwdriver.
13Replace the cover and tighten the cover screw.
14
Reconnect power to furnace. If the water level was
lowered to install a new well fitting, MAKE SURE THE
FURNACE IS FILLED WITH WATER TO THE
CORRECT LEVEL BEFORE OPERATING
HEATER.