INSTALLATION AND
OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
THE HARDY
OUTSIDE WOOD
BURNING HEATER
Model
Model –
Model Model
Model
Model –
Model Model
– H3, H5 & H6
––
– H3, H5 & H6
––
H3, H5 & H6
H3, H5 & H6H3, H5 & H6
H3, H5 & H6
H3, H5 & H6H3, H5 & H6
HARDY MANUFACTURING
COMPANY, INC.
12345 ROAD 505
PHILADELPHIA, MS 39350
PHONE: (601) 656-5866
FAX: (601) 656-4559
www.hardyheater.com
Rev. 01/06
THIS PAGE INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the original all stainless steel Hardy Outside Wood Burning
Heater. It represents the result of many years of Hardy experience and the input of Hardy
customers in the production of a top quality heater. With the purchase of this Hardy Heater,
you can now appreciate the high degree of craftsmanship and reliability that have made The
Hardy the leader in the outside woodburning heater field. This manual will provide you with a
good basic understanding of the installation and operation of this heater.
THIS MANUAL INCLUDES IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION
Your new heater should have the following:
(1) Owner’s manual complete with Installation
and Hook-Up Instructions
(2) Warranty & Return Warranty Card
(3) A tube of silicon (located in the firebox for shipping)
(4) Smoke stack and condenser tank stack both
with trim (located in firebox for shipping)
(5) Three cast iron grates (located in firebox)
(6) Two I - beam & 2 Channel Beams (located in firebox)
(7) Shovel (located in the firebox for shipping)
(8) Stainless steel panel and insulation that will be
located between the firebox door & ash door
after installation of the heater
(9) Stainless steel flame baffle (15” x 10”). Only for
use on Hardy model H5 180,000 BTU heater
Should your heater not have any of these items or if you have any questions regarding the
operation or maintenance of your heater, please consult you local Hardy dealer.
Again, thank you for purchasing a Hardy Heater.
Sincerely,
Frank L. Moore
President
Hardy Manufacturing Company Incorporated
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
i
Please fill in the following information
Hardy Model
Serial Number
Date of Purchase
Date of Installation
Dealer Purchased from
Dealer Address
Dealer Phone Number
Please keep this manual with all other important papers. The
information in this manual is necessary for the installation,
operation and proper use of this unit. If you should ever have
a problem or question please refer to this manual or have it
available when you call your Hardy Dealer or Hardy
Manufacturing Company, Inc.
HARDY MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC.
12345 ROAD 505
PHILADELPHIA, MS 39350
PHONE: (601) 656-5866
www.hardyheater.com
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
ii
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
WARNING
Do not operate this equipment for other than its intended purpose nor other than in accordance
with the instructions contained in this manual and all other instructions accompanying the unit.
For units covered by this instruction book, it is important to observe safety precautions to
protect yourself from possible injury. Among the many considerations, you are advised to:
x Observe all safety stickers on the unit.
x This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician in accordance with the
National Electrical Code.
x Never use any type of petroleum product, petroleum based product, charcoal starter,
lighter fluid, or any other flammable accelerant to start your unit.
x Always open the ash door (bottom) before you open the firebox door (top).
x Never leave the doors open, always latch the doors securely.
x Always use proper care when installing, operating and maintaining the unit.
x Do not modify the unit.
x Do not substitute repairs which can be provided by your dealer, distributor, or
Manufacturing Company.
Failure to heed this warning or any additional warnings on the unit may result in a
accident causing personal injury.
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
iii
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THE HARDY OUTSIDE WOODBURNING HEATER
How does an outside heater heat my home?
The Hardy \Outside woodburning Heater is designed to save the most energy and provide the
most comfortable heating available. It heats your home by heating a stainless steel tank filled
with water, which surrounds the firebox of the outside heater. The heater is basically a non
pressurized boiler with an atmospheric vent. This hot water is then circulated through
underground hot water pipes to a water coil inside your existing central duct system. The
Hardy Heater can be connected to any existing hydronic heating system that operates at 180
degrees or less.
How does THE HARDY heat water for household use?
A plate heat exchanger (optional) is installed in the hot water circulator line. When you open a
hot water faucet inside your home, the cold water passed through the other side of the heat
exchanger and the water going your hot water heater is preheated. The only energy required is
maintaining the hot water temperature. The plate heat exchangers can be used for pools,
dairies and other domestic hot water needs.
How do the Thermostat Controls work?
The only visible addition to the heating system inside your home is the thermostat which is
located neat the existing thermostat. The two thermostats are installed so that if the outside
wood heater is not in operation, you existing unit will automatically take over to maintain your
household temperature. The wall thermostat which regulates the heat from the outside heater
performs two functions; when it senses your need for heat according to your temperature
setting, it turns the water pump on to circulate the hot water through the coil and also turns the
blower on inside your central unit to force air across the hot coil. This forces hot air into your
central duct system. The outside heater has a hot water thermostat which senses the water
temperature of the unit. If the water is not as hot as thermostat setting then the combustion air
intake is automatically opened and remains open until such temperature is attained.
Where should an Outside Wood Burning Heater be located?
The outside unit should be located at least 10 feet from your home so that all fire danger is
removed from your home. The unit may be installed as much as 100 feet away and still heat
your house and hot water. If the unit is located more than 100 feet away, you may experience
some heat loss on the water going to your hot water heater. Locate the outside wood heater
where it will be convenient for refueling and wood storage. All water and power lines are
installed underground between the house and the outside wood heater.
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
vi
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION I: General Information
1-1 Specifications ................................................................... 1-2
1-2 Heater Component Parts (Model H3,H5,H6) ....................... 3
SECTION II: Installation of Heater
2-1 Location of Heater............................................................ 4-5
2-2 Hull Removal....................................................................... 6
2-3 Set-Up of Grates ................................................................. 7
2-4 Location of Plumbing & Electrical Lines............................... 8
2-5 Connection of Power to Heater............................................ 9
2-6 Wiring Diagram (H3,H5,H6)............................................... 10
2-7 Plumbing Instructions ........................................................ 11
2-8 Filling the Heater with Water......................................... 12-13
SECTION III: Connection to Central Heating/AC System
3-1 Connection to Central Unit
with existing Blower Coil.............................................. 14-16
3-2 Location of Heating Coil ............................................... 17-18
SECTION IV: Connection to Hydronic Heating Systems (Baseboard)
4-1 Connection to Hydronic System
with existing 24 Volt Transformer ................................ 19-20
4-2 Typical Diagram for Plumbing Hydronic System............... 21
SECTION V: Plumbing Options for Domestic Hot Water
5-1 Option 1 – Plate Heat Exchanger for Domestic Water
located at Hot Water Heater........................................ 22-23
5-2 Option 2 – Plate Heat Exchanger for Domestic Water
located at rear of Heater................................................... 24
5-3 Automatic Water Fill (optional).......................................... 25
SECTION VI: Heater Operation
6-1 Firing the Heater................................................................ 26
6-2 Water Temperature.......................................................... 26
6-3 Wood Usage .................................................................... 26
6-4 Moisture in the Firebox..................................................... 26
6-5 Improper Burning ............................................................. 27
6-6 Ash Removal..................................................................... 27
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
vii
SECTION VII: Service Information
7-2 Water Circulation System................................................. 28
7-3 Temperature Control System ........................................... 29
7-4 Preseason Heater Maintenance ....................................... 30
7-5 Trouble Shooting Guide .............................................. 31-35
SECTION VII: Repair Parts ........................................................................... 36
(MODEL H3 H5 & H6)
viii
SECTION I
GENERAL INFORMATION
1 – 1 Specifications
Type of fuel – Wood
For outdoor use only
Underwriters Laboratories Inc. Listed – 84E4
Electrical Rating 115 VAC/ 60 HZ / 1P
MFS-15 AMP, MCA-15 AMP
Clearance to Combustibles
Top, Rear, Sides 18”
Chimney Connector 18”
Front 48”
Flooring Non Combustible
Water Capacity
H3 – Holds Approximately 100 Gallons of Water
H5 – Holds Approximately 130 Gallons of Water
H6 – Holds Approximately 60 Gallons of Water
HEATER DIMENSIONS
Description Wide Depth Height Weight
H3 – 120,000 BTU 30” 52 ½” 59 ½” 650 lbs.
H5 – 180,000 BTU 40” 52 ½” 59 ½” 850 lbs.
H6 – 100,000 BTU 30” 40 ½” 51 ½” 475 lbs.
FIREBOX SIZES
Description Wide Depth Height
H3 – 120,000 BTU 24” 32” 36” + 8” for Grates
H5 – 180,000 BTU 34” 32” 36” + 8” for Grates
H6 – 100,000 BTU 24” 24” 36” + 8” for Grates
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 1
1-1 Specifications (continued)
On the front of your heater there is a nameplate. Along with other information you will find
the model number of your heater. This model number tells you what your heater rating is
and what electrical and plumbing options your heater has, Use the following list to
determine this. The first section determines the rating of your heater. The second section
determines electrical options. The last section determines the plumbing options. For
example heater model number H3-1-07. The H3 designates that you have a 120,000 Btu
heater.. The 1 in the second section designates that you have a standard pump. The 0 in
the last section designates that your heater is without domestic hot water. The 7 in the last
section designates that you have extra ports on your heater. On H3, H5, and H6 models
domestic hot water is only available through the use of externally mounted heat exchanger
kits.
Model
Electric options
Plumbing options
Heater Rating
H3 – 120, 000 BTU
H5 – 180,000 BTU
H6 – 100,000 BTU
Electrical Options
0 – Without a Pump
1 – Standard Pump
2 – 2nd Pump & Relay
3 – 3rd Pump & Relay
8 – Pump for Plate Heat Exchanger
9 – Automatic Water fill
H3-1-07
120,000
2.5
Plumbing Options
0 – Without Domestic Hot Water
7 – Extra Ports, 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”, etc.
8 – External mounted Plate exchanger
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 2
Section I 1-2 Heater Component Parts (Model H3, H5, & H6)
Legend Part No. Description
1 600.10 1/2” Brass Elbow
2 800.10 1/2” Overflow pipe
3 1100.27 Low water switch
4 604.32 3/4” Brass caps
1
2
4 5
16
17
3
6
7
8
14
15
18
9
10
11
10
12
13
12
5 604.16 1/2” Brass cap
6 2000.08 Well fitting
7 2000.08 Honeywell Hi-temp Thermostat
8 2004.08 8’ 2 wire power cord
9 600.30 3/4” Brass elbow
10 603.32 3/4” x 6” Brass nipple
11 607.12 3/4” Brass ball valve
12 502.40 3/4” Bronze flange
13 502.08 Taco 009 Bronze pump w/ power cord
for H3 & H5 Models
508.09 Taco 008 Bronze pump w/ power cord
for H6 Model
14 2000.52 Relay
15 2001.00 Dormeyer damper solenoid
16 2004.16 Receptacle box
17 2004.00 GFCI Receptacle
18 3200.12 Jack chain
19 2002.04 60 CFM blower w/lid for H6 Model
2002.16 100 CFM blower w/lid for H3 Model
2002.28 130 CFM blower w/ lid for H5 Model
20 603.40 3/4” x close nipple
21 602.16 3/4” Brass tee
22 607.42 3/4” Boiler drain
22
19
4
11
20
21
4
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 3
SECTION II
INSTALLATION OF HEATER
Section II 2-1 Location of Heater
The Hardy Heater is designed to set outside the building to be heated. The unit must be
located a minimum of 10 feet from the building. The unit should be installed upon a
concrete pad. There are two typical options that we recommend.
Option 1 has the unit installed on concrete pad with the rear of the water tank flush with
end of the pad. We recommend the pad to be 48” wide and 48” long minimum. If you add
extra length it will allow ample concrete in front of the heater for loading wood and
removing ashes. The space between the rear of the unit and the outside cover will allow a
4” water tight pipe or other means to insulate the plumbing and electrical lines to run
directly into the ground. The outside cover can be removed by lifting it off the water tank on
all four corners. This will allow you easy access for the connection of the plumbing and
electrical lines.
Please see the illustration below for details.
Outside Hull
Water Tank
Concrete Pad
Side
View
OPTION #1
Condenser Stack
Pump
A minimum of 16 sq. in. is
required for combustion air to
enter heater.
Run one 4” watertight
pipe to pull water and
electrical lines through
between the heater and
the location to be heated
or other means to insulate
the plumbing lines.
Heater Overhanging Pad (Not to Scale)
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 4
Section II 2-1 Location of Heater (continued)
Option 2 illustrates the unit installed on a concrete slab with cut out in the slab for plumbing
and electrical connects to run through. We recommend this pad to be 48” wide by 60”
minimum long. If you add extra length it will allow ample concrete in front of the heater for
loading wood and removing the ashes. The 4” watertight pipe or other means to insulate
plumbing that runs underground exits through this cut out to allow connections to the unit.
The unit sits on the slab with the rear of the water tank flush or even with the front side of
the cutout. The outside cover of the heater can be removed by lifting it from the water tank
on all four corners. This will allow you east access for the plumbing and electrical
connections.
Outside Hull
Water Tank
Concrete Pad
OPTION #2
Condenser Stack
Pump
Side
View
Heater on solid pad (Not to Scale)
A minimum of 16 sq. in. is
required for combustion air to
enter heater.
Run one 4” watertight
pipe to pull water and
electrical lines through
between the heater and
the location to be heated
or other means to insulate
the plumbing lines.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 5
Section II 2-2 Hull Removal
After placing your new Hardy Heater upon the concrete pad, you are ready to continue the
installation process. There are two methods to gain access to the rear of the Heater to
make plumbing and electrical connections.
The first and easiest method is to remove the screw holding the back door panel in place.
The door is easily removed by lifting up on the handle and taking it out. With the back door
removed, using a 5/16” wrench, remove the 8 metal screws that are located below the
back door. There are four on each side that hold the panel in place. After the crews are
removed, the panel should come out easily and allow access to the bottom of the unit to
make plumbing and electrical connections.
The second method is the removal of the entire cover. With the back and the rectangular
piece of stainless and insulation between the fire box and ash door removed, the outside
cover can be lifted up and off as seen in the picture. To replace the cover simply repeat
these steps in reverse order.
Rear View
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 6
Front View
Section II 2-3 Set-Up of Grates
First open the firebox door and remove everything from inside of the heater except the two
I-beams and three grate. Lay the two I-beams up on the edge and over against the tabs as
shown in the picture below. The grates can now be placed on the I-beams in line and side
to side. The picture below shows the proper way for grates to be installed.
These grates are designed to be turned over if they warp.
On Hardy H5 models, there is a stainless steel flame baffle (15” x 10”). This flame baffle is
inserted in the firebox across the 3/4” stainless steel pipes located directly below the
smokestack.
3 Grate Setup for H3
(H6 Has Only 2 Grates)
6 Grate Setup for H5
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 7
Section II 2-4 Location of Plumbing and Electrical Lines
The plumbing and electrical lines for your unit must be installed underground. The water
lines must be buried below the frost line to prevent freezing. The depth of the trench varies
to different regions of the country. Be completely sure about the correct depth before the
plumbing lines are installed underground.
A trench must be dug wide enough to accommodate a 4 inch watertight pipe or other
insulation means. All plumbing and electrical lines should be run inside the 4 inch water
tight pipe or other insulation means for a standard installation. If more than 1 zone is to be
heated or more than 1 location is to be heated then an additional pipe, or insulation must
be installed underground.
This pipe will run from the rear of the unit to the location to be heated. Inside the 4 inch
watertight pipe be the 2 water line, thermostat wire, and electrical supply wire. The listing
below describes each line and their function.
1. One water supply line to heating system
2. One water return line from heating system
(All of these must be at least 3/4” pipe and
may require 1” because of longer distances
or some hydronic applications.)
3. One 3 conductor thermostat wire
4. One #12/2 W/G UF underground Romex wire
If more than one location is to be heated, a second 4 inch or single 6” watertight pipe or
other insulation means will need to be installed underground for the water lines and
thermostat wires of the second location.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 8
Section II 2-5 Connection of Power to Heater
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician
in accordance with the National Electrical Code.
1. The #12/2 W/G UF wire is run from the electrical system in the house through the 4”
watertight pipe or other insulation means to the heater.
2. This wire will connect to the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) on the back of the
heater.
3. Install a Romex Connector in the bottom of the electrical makeup box, and insert Romex
wire through this connector.
4. Connect the black wire to the brass screw on the line side of the GFCI receptacle.
5. Connect the white wire to the silver screw on the line side of the GFCI receptacle.
6. Connect the bare copper wire to the green screw on the GFCI receptacle.
7. After the wiring is complete check the receptacle with a circuit tester to determine if the
polarity is correct and to make sure the ground is connected. Press the test button on the
GFCI receptacle the reset button should pop out indicating the interrupter is operating
correctly. Push the reset button back to restore the GFCI receptacle to normal operation.
This test should be done monthly to insure safe operation of the heater.
8. If moisture is allowed into Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter box, it will have a tendency to
trip unwarranted. Measures should be taken to keep the box dry.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 9
Section II 2-6 Wiring Diagrams (H3, H5, & H6)
This equipment must be installed in accordance
with the National Electrical Code.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 10
Section II 2-7 Plumbing Instructions
Connection to Heating System
1. The pipe that will supply the heating system is connected to the under side of the pump. This pump
is located on the right hand side of the heater (noted by # 3 in diagram.)
2. The pipe that will carry the return water from the heating system is connects to the 3/4” brass tee
located at the bottom left hand corner of the heater (noted by # 4 in diagram).
Water pipes must be designed for hot water service (ex. Copper,
cpvc, or Pex.) Pipes should be installed in a 4” watertight pipe or
some other type of insulating means to prevent heat loss
from heater to heating system. Use only copper, brass, or
stainless steel fittings. Do not use galvanized or black iron.
3 Supply to heating
system
4 Heating system return
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 11
Section II 2-8 Filling the Heater with Water
When you are ready to replace the cover, the hull can slide down over the heater. Make
sure that the condenser tank and smoke stack opening come through the outside cover.
The space between the smoke stack opening and outside cover will need a bead of silicon
applied to fill any openings. The condenser tank will also need to be sealed in this manner.
The application of silicon to these openings is illustrated by the picture below and diagrams
on the next page.
Inside the firebox and should be a rectangular piece of insulation and stainless steel. The
insulation fits between the firebox and ash doors. The stainless steel slides between the
two doors to protect the insulation.
After these steps, you can install the smoke stack which is three foot section of pipe. The
trim should be slid down the smokestack until it sits on the outside cover.
The condenser stack must also be installed in the condenser stack opening. The trim
should be slid down the smokestack until it sits on the outside cover.
The condenser stack must also be installed in the condenser stack opening. The trim must
also sit snugly upon the outside cover.
DO NOT SEAL THE CONDENSER TANK TO THE CONDENSER TANK
LID. THIS IS THE WATER TANK VENT AND MUST NOT BE SEALED.
There are certain parts of the country that have high enough levels of chloride in the water
to be harmful to stainless steel tanks. Even though the USDA allows up to 250 parts per
million of chloride (salt) in the water as acceptable for drinking, experience has shown that
chloride levels as low as 45 parts per million will eventually cause stress corrosion
cracking in stainless steel tanks when water is heated. It is therefore required to use rain
water or bottled water with chloride content of less than 15 parts per million or test the
water supply for chloride to assure that the water supply does not exceed 45 parts per
million. Call you Hardy dealer to get a chloride test on your water supply.
Fill your heater with water through the condenser stack opening. If the chloride content of
your local water supply exceeds the specifications mentioned above and necessitates the
use of bottled or rain water, please do so to maintain the warranty of you heater.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 12
Section II 2-8 Filling the Heater with Water (continued)
THE HEATER MUST BE FILLED WITH WATER BEFORE STARTING A FIRE.
There is a low water switch located in the back of the heater. This low water switch
extends into the water tank directly into the condenser tank area. This switch will activate a
low warning light mounted into the side of the outer hull. The water level in the heater
needs to be high enough to operate low water switch and turn off the low water warning
light.
Seal between the cover
and the tank lid collar
Seal between the condenser
tank and heater cover
Heater with cover installed
Condenser tank
Do not fill past this point
Minimum water level
Low water switch
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 13
SECTION III
CONNECTION TO CENTRAL HEATING/AC SYSTEM
3-1 Connection to Central Unit
with Existing Blower Relay
CONNECTED TO ONE CENTRAL HEATING/AC SYSTEMS THAT
HAS AN EXISTING BLOWER RELAY AND ONE PUMP USING
HONEYWELL RELAY R8222D FOR THE PUMP RELAY AND THE
NEW BLOWER RELAY.
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician
in accordance with the National Electrical Code.
1. Run a three conductor thermostat wire from the wood heater to the central unit in the
house. This wire must be rated for underground use or be run inside a watertight
pipe. The colors normally are red, white, and green.
2. At the heater, connect the white wire to terminal 8 of the water pump relay (R-3).
3. Connect the red wire to one side of the low temperature sensor (the round disc with
two terminals under the insulation near the center of the heater appx. 12” from the
top). This is an option that prevents the pumping of water less than 100’F but is not
required. If you elect no to use this option, then only a two wire conductor is required,
bypassing the low temperature sensor.
4. Connect a jumper wire from the other side of the low temperature sensor to terminal 7 of
the water pump relay (R-3) and also connect the green wire to terminal 7 of R-3. If two
wires are used then one is connected to terminal 7 and the other to terminal 8.
5. Inside the house:
A. Install the new wood heating thermostat neat the existing thermostat.
1. Remove the cover on the new home heat thermostat to mount it
on the wall. There is round dial visible with an adjustable
pointer. This is the heat anticipator. The dial also has a series of
numbers. The pointer must be set to the highest number on the
dial. On the Honeywell model #(t 822-1016), the pointer is
turned counter clockwise as far as it can go.
6. Run a two conductor thermostat wire from the new thermostat to central unit:
A. The colors normally used are red and white.
NOTE: If you are not familiar with the control circuit of your central
unit, do not continue beyond this point. Call a heating and air
conditioning serviceman to complete the wiring. Improper wiring can
cause excessive electrical usage or cause your blower motor to over
heat and burn out.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 14
Section III 3-1 Connection to Central Unit
with Existing Blower Relay (continued)
7. Locate the existing 24 volt transformer:
A. One 24 volt line (hot) should run from the transformer to the existing thermostat;
1. Cut this wire and connect the wire going to the existing thermostat to
terminal 2 of R-2 (new blower relay).
2. Connect the wire running from the 24 volt transformer to terminal 1 of
R-2 and also connect the red wire of the two conductor thermostat wire
to terminal 1 of R-2.
3. Connect the white wire of the two conductor thermostat wire to the red
wire of the three conductor wire.
8. Locate the other 24 volt line (common) coming from the transformer:
A. Splice a white jumper wire to this wire.
B. Connect the other end of the white jumper wire to terminal 8 of R-2.
C. Also connect the white wire of the three conductor thermostat to
terminal 8 of R-2.
D. Connect the green wire of the three conductor thermostat wire to
terminal 7 of R-2.
E. Also connect a jumper wire from terminal 7 of R-2 to terminal 6 of R-2.
9. Locate the existing central unit blower relay (R-1):
A. Locate the wire running from the existing thermostat to the blower relay coil;
Disconnect this wire from the existing blower relay coil and connect it to terminal
5 of the new blower relay R-2.
B. Connect a jumper wire from the existing blower relay coil (the point that you just
disconnected) to terminal 4 of relay R-2.
10. If all connections are made properly and the water in the wood heater is hot, the unit
should be ready for operation. NOTE: This is a general diagram. You may have to make
various changes according to how your unit is wired.
A. Insure that the compressor on a heat pump or A/C unit does not run when the
wood system is running.
B. Insure that the gas burner, oil burner, or electric elements do not come on when
the wood system is running.
C. Insure that only one speed of the blower motor can be energized at one time.
If more than one speed is energized at the same time, the blower motor will burn
out.
D. Insure that the Volt Amp rating of the existing 24 volt transformer is not
exceeded when the relays in the wood heating system are energized.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 15
Section III 3-1 Connection to Central Unit
with existing Blower Relay (continued)
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 16
Section III 3-2 Location of Heating Coil
The following diagrams and pictures
on this page and the following page
show various methods of installing
the heating coil in forced air system.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 17
Section III 3-2 Location of Heating Coil (continued)
3) SUPPLY TO HEATING SYSTEM
4) HEATING SYSTEM RETURN
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 18
SECTION IV
CONNECTION TO HYDRONIC HEATING SYSTEMS (BASEBOARD)
4-1 Connection to Hydronic System
with Existing 24 Volt Transformer
ONE PUMP ON THE WOOD HEATER
USING HONEYWELL REALY R8222D.
This unit must be wired by a qualified electrician in
accordance with the National Electrical Code.
1. Run two conductor thermostat wire from the wood heater to the existing heating
system in the house. This wire must be rated for underground use or be run inside
a pvc pipe. The colors normally used are red and white.
2. At the heater, connect the white wire to terminal 8 of the water pump. (R-3)
3. Connect the red wire to terminal 7 of the water pump relay. (R-3)
4. In the house locate the existing pump relay. Connect the red wire of the two
conductor thermostat wire to the coil of the pump relay that is fed by the existing
thermostat.
5. Connect the white wire of the two conductor thermostat wire to the coil of the pump
relay on the side that is fed from the common side of the transformer.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 19
Section IV 4-1 Connection to Hydronic System
with Existing 24 Volt Transformer (continued)
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 20
Section IV 4-2 Typical Diagram for Plumbing
Hydronic System
Water Pipes must be designed for hot water service (ex. copper, cpvc, or pex.) Pipes
should be installed in a 4” watertight pipe or some other type of insulating means to
prevent heat loss from heater to heating system. Use only copper, brass, or stainless steel
fittings. Do not use galvanized or black iron. Turn off the makeup water for the existing
system. Manual filling of the wood heater or the electric fill option will supply makeup water
for the wood heater and the existing hydronic. Close all automatic air vents on the existing
system.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 21
SECTION V
PLUMBING OPTIONS FOR DOMESTIC HOT WATER
5-1 Option 1 – Plate Heat Exchanger for Domestic Hot Water
located at Hot Water Heater
To use this option it is recommended to bypass the relay and allow the circulator pump on
the heater to run continuously. To do this, first unplug the power cord going to the pump,
remove the wires of this cord from the relay terminals. Hook these two wires together using
a wire nut. Then when all plumbing changes have been made, plug pump cord back into
GFCI receptacle.
If your heating system needs to be bypassed you can install manual valves or install a
three way zone valve into the heater water supply going to the heating system (see
plumbing diagram). Install a tee into the supply line from the pump. One side of this tee will
go straight to the heating system, the other side will go to the unit port of the zone valve.
The main port of the zone valve will go to one side of the plate heat exchanger. The other
port on the same side of the plate heat exchanger will go back to the return port of the
heater.
The domestic water hooks up on the opposite side of the plate heat exchanger. The
direction of domestic water flow must be reserved from that of the heater water flow. The
cold water supply will go into the port opposite the return port, and water back to the hot
water heater will connect to the port opposite the line from the zone valve.
The use of bypass valves on both sides of the plate heat exchanger aids in maintenance
and cleaning of plate heat exchanger.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 22
Section V 5-1 Option 1 – Plate Heat Exchanger for Domestic Hot Water
located at Hot Water Heater
3 WAY ZONE VALVE ALLOWS THE WATER TO FLOW FROM
THE BYPASS PORT TO THE MAIN PORT WHEN IT IS OFF.
WHEN THE VALVE IS ENERGIZED IT WILL DIVERT THE WATER
THROUGH THE HEATING SYSTEM TO THE UNIT PORT
AND OUT THE MAIN PORT
!
WATER TEMPERATURE
OVER 125° CAN CAUSE
SEVER BURNS INSTANTLY
DANGER
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 23
Section V 5-2 Option 2 – Plate Heat Exchanger for Domestic Hot Water
located on rear of Heater
When this option is ordered a Taco 008 pump is installed on the rear of the heater. A plate
heat exchanger will be mounted directly below the pump, and will be connected to the
pump with a stainless steel flex line. This pump will be wired to run continuously.
The domestic water hooks up on the opposite side of the plate heat exchanger. The
direction of domestic water flow is reversed from that of the heater water flow. The cold
water supply will go into the bottom port and the hot water back to the home hot water
heater will connect to the top port.
!
WATER TEMPERATURE
OVER 125° CAN CAUSE
SEVER BURNS INSTANTLY
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 24
DANGER
Section V 5-3 Automatic Water Fill (Optional)
When this option is ordered, an electric water solenoid valve and various fittings required is
installed on the rear of the heater. It will also require a cold water supply line run to the
heater.
The electric water valve is mounted on a 1/4” nipple in the upper right corner on the rear of
the heater.
This will leave 1/2” hookup. When hooking up your domestic water supply make sure a
cutoff valve is installed and flexible connections to remove the screen for annual cleaning.
See illustration below.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 25
SECTION VI
HEATER OPERATION
6-1 Firing the Heater
Start the fire as you would in any other wood heater. Do not use petroleum products to
start a fire. After you get an initial fire started, always stack the wood in the fire box
straight. Do not cross the wood because this can cause the fire to go out. Any time you
add wood, fill the fire box completely full. The heater will burn only as much wood as is
needed to keep the water hot.
CAUTION: ALWAYS OPEN THE BOTTOM DOOR BEFORE YOU OPEN THE TOP DOOR.
6-2 Water Temperature
In the back of the heater is a Honeywell hot water aquastat. The normal operating
temperature is 170°-180°F. Do not set the thermostat lower than 140°F because the fire
might go out. Never set the thermostat above 180°F because the heater could overheat
and boil the water away.
6-3 Wood Usage
Never leave the doors open unattended because it will cause excessive wood
consumption and could possibly damage the heater. If the heater is burning more wood
than usual, check the seal around the front doors. If the seal is bad it will need replacing.
Call your local Hardy Dealer and order rope and silicone for the firebox or ash door. The
fire in the heater must be out to seal the door. With door still mounted on the heater,
scrape the old silicone out of the groove. Run a small bead of silicone in the groove of the
door. Start installing the rope at the top edge if the wide groove (next to the hinges)
running down the hinge side and continue around the door. Run the rope past the starting
point to the bottom of the hinge side of the door. The hinge side of the door will have two
layers of gasket, press the rope gasket into the groove so that both layers are even.
6-4 Moisture in the Firebox
On a new heater or the first time you start a fire each year, you will probably think you
have a leak in the firebox. The firebox walls will sweat and water will run down the side.
This can also happen if the water temperature drops below 100°F in the winter. This drop
in temperature can be caused by improper burning due to stopped up grates. If you see
moisture in the firebox, wait three days before you get alarmed. If it continues, check to
see if you are burning green wood. Green wood will create a lot of moisture in the firebox,
even to the extent that water can get as high as an inch or two in the ash pan. If you still
think you have leak in your heater, remove all wood and ashes from the heater. Let it set a
couple of days with doors closed. Then open the ash door. If you have leak, water will run
out of the firebox.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 26
Section VI 6-5 Improper Burning
If the fire is not burning properly, remove all of the ashes and wood from the heater. Check to
see if the grates are stopped up. Check the air intake at the back of the heater to insure it is
clear of ashes. Lift the damper lid to check for ashes. Check to see if the force air blower is
running. If you have made these checks and the fire will not burn properly, remove the
smokestack and check for creosote buildup. Look down the smoke stack into the firebox to
check for creosote buildup. On the 180,00 BTU heater there is a removable baffle in the
firebox just below the smokestack. Remove this baffle through the firebox door. Clean off the
creosote and reinstall the baffle. These steps should correct the problem. If the fire goes out
when the damper is closed and will not start (After the damper has been open for at least 15
minutes), remove one of the screws in the damper lid. If the problem continues, remove the
other screw. (Remove the screws only if you are absolutely sure the fire is going out !!!)
6-1 Ash Removal
Ashes must be removed before they build up to the level of the grates. Failure to keep the
ash bin cleaned out will result in warped grates. The buildup of ashes in the firebox should be
checked at least once a week. Allow the fire to burn down until the grates can be seen. This
insures that all of the grates are clear. Failure to do this will cause your heating system to
stop working and the grates to warp. If the grates warp slightly, they can be turned over and
allowed to straighten out. The drawing shown below shows how the grates should look when
you allow the fire to burn down.
Allow fire to burn
down and insure all
grates are clear at
least once a week
When cleaning grates,
do not remove ash build
up on sides of fire box
Do not allow ashes to
build and touch grates
and when removing
ashes leave at least
1/2” - 1” of ashes in
bottom of ash pan
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 27
7-1 Water Circulation System
SECTION VII
SERVICE INFORMATION
LOW TEMPERATURE SENSOR, P/N H2000.36 – (WARNING: When working with
electrical circuits, use caution to avoid electrical shock) – This sensor can be wired in
the home heat thermostat circuit to prevent the pump on the heater from running when the
water in the wood heater is not hot. The sensor has set of contacts that close when the
water rises to 110’F and open when the water drops to 90’f.
WATER PUMP RELAY, P/N H2000.52 - (WARNING: When working with electrical
circuits, use caution to avoid electrical shock) – This is Honeywell DPDT relay with a
24 volt coil. Terminal 4 and 6 (normally open contacts) are used to turn on the water pump.
Control voltage (24volts) connected at terminals 7 and 8 routed through a home thermostat
energizes the relay.
WATER PUMP FOR HEATING SYSTEM, Taco 009 pump P/N H502.00 – (WARNING:
When working with electrical circuits, use caution to avoid electrical shock) - with
bronze body. If the pump will not run, first unplug the power cord then check the water
pump relay. The relay can be bypassed by disconnecting the wire terminal 6 and the
connecting to terminal 5 (terminals 4 to 5 is normally closed) remove the thermostat wire
from terminal 8, and plug the power cord back in. This should supply 115vac directly to the
pump. If the pump will still not run, unplug the power cord. Remove the four bolts holding
the pump to the pump housing. Remove the cartridge from the pump. Spin the impeller, if it
will not spin, replace the cartridge. If the impeller will spin, it may have been temporarily
stuck (reassemble and try again) or the problem is the electrical winding or capacitor. Use
an ohm meter to check the winding and capacitor. If the capacitor is defective, replace it. If
the electrical winding is defective, replace the complete pump.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 28
Section VII 7-2 Temperature Control System
DAMPER AQUASTAT, P/N H2000.08 - (WARNING: When working with electrical circuits,
use caution to avoid electrical shock) – This thermostat has a probe that is in a well in the
water tank of the wood heater. It has one set of contacts that open on a temperature rise
and close on a temperature fall. This thermostat is normally set at 170’F to 180’F. It
controls the damper solenoid and the forced air draft. If the damper solenoid and forced air
draft will not operate, place a jumper wire across the thermostat terminals. If they operate
when the thermostat is jumpered out, and the temperature of the water in the heater is
below the set point on the thermostat, the thermostat is defective. Do not leave the jumper
on the thermostat because the heater will overheat.
DAMPER SOLENOID, P/N H 2001.00 - (WARNING: When working with electrical circuits,
use caution to avoid electrical shock) – This solenoid lifts the cover off the intake to the
forced air draft blower. The solenoid is controlled by the damper thermostat. It should lift
the cover when the forced air blower comes on and drop the cover after the blower goes
off. If the solenoid does not drop the cover when the blower goes off, the solenoid should
be replaced. The forced air draft intake cover must be in place when the blower is not
running or the heater will overheat and cause excessive wood usage.
FORCED AIR DRAFT BLOWER, P/N H2002.12 - (WARNING: When working with electrical
circuits, use caution to avoid electrical shock) – This blower supplies air to the fire box
when the damper thermostat calls for heat. If the blower wheel or the intake to the blower
is clogged, the blower will not deliver the proper amount of air to the fire. The blower can
be disassembled and cleaned. Be sure to seal the blower motor back to the blower
housing if the blower is disassembled. The motor should be oiled at the beginning of each
heating season. When the heater is not in use, the power cord for the blower should be
unplugged.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 29
SECTION VII 7-3 Preseason Heater Maintenance
Each year before the heating season begins,
you should check your heater to insure
that everything is ready for the heating season.
1. WATER QUALITY – The Hardy Heater is designed not to lose heater water through
evaporation. At times during the year, accidental overheating can occur, and the water will
evaporate. The evaporation causes a concentration of chlorides (salts) and other minerals.
To protect your heater from this buildup of chlorides (salts) and other minerals, we
recommend to drain your heater each year at time of startup for the heating season and
refill with rain water or bottled water with a chloride concentration of less than 15 parts per
million. This will add to the life of your stainless steel tank.
2. DAMPER AND DRAFT SYSTEM – When you plugged in the power cord, the damper
solenoid should have opened the draft lid on the draft blower. The forced air draft blower
should also have come on. If both of these components are working correctly, unplug the
power cord. Open the clean out lid beside the draft blower and check for any build up of
ash, tar, or any other material that could restrict the amount of combustion air entering the
heater. Check the seal on the clean out lid to assure a good air tight seal is still
established. Lift the damper lid on the draft blower and inspect the blower wheel for any
build up of lint, dust, creosote, or any other substance that could effect the performance of
the draft blower. Spray the damper lid hinge, and the damper solenoid plunger with WD40, or its equivalent. Oil the draft blower motor with electric motor oil, or 10 weight no
detergent motor oil. Do no use WD-40, or machine oil. Check the grates inside the heater
to see if there is any ash build up of if the grates are warped. If a grate does warp, lift that
grate up and turn it over. Also at this time check the smoke stack for blockage.
3. WATER PUMP – Unplug the power cord going to the water pump. Close the valve
above the water pump and the return water valve at the bottom of the heater. Remove the
pump motor from the pump housing by removing the four bolts in the pump housing.
Remove the impeller cartridge assembly from the pump housing. Check the impeller to
determine if it is free by spinning the impeller in the cartridge. Check the pump housing for
rust or any other build up that could impede the flow of water. Reassemble the water
pump, making sure the “O” ring in the cartridge is seated right. Once the pump is
reinstalled, open the water valve above the pump and the return valve.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 30
Section VII 7 – 5 Trouble Shooting Guide H3,H5,&H6
WARNING
HAZARDOUS VOLTAGE WILL CAUSE DEATH, SEVER PERSONAL INJURY OR SUB-
STANTIAL PROPERTY DAMAGE. ALWAYS FOLLOW THE SAFETY PRECAUTION
WARNINGS POSTED IN THIS INSTRUCTION BOOKLET.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Preventative Maintenance can provide measurable improvements in system performance as well as a marked
reduction in comfort complaints. The customer should always remain aware of preventative maintenance
actions that could help them avoid unnecessary shutdown time and save them repair expense.
Preventative Maintenance Checklist:
1 Ground Fault Interrupter Receptacle > Should be tested monthly to insure proper and safe operation.
(a) check with a circuit tester to determine if the polarity is correct. (b) Press the test button, the reset
button should pop out indicating the interrupter has tripped. Press the reset button to restore to normal
operation.
2 Heater Piping > Check all piping occasionally on back of heater for any possible water leaks. Water leaks
on heater components can cause electrical shorts, damage to component parts and insulation.
3 Low Water Light >Check the low water warning light each week for proper operation to avoid low water
or over filling in heaters with electric make-up water systems, See service information section in owners
manual for proper checking procedures.
4 Ash Bin > Keep ash bin from ash buildup. Remove ashes before they build up to the level of the grates.
This will restrict proper air flow and cause the grates to warp. Leave at least 1/2” to 1” of ashes in bottom
of ash pan to protect the bottom from burnout.
5 Damper/Draft System and Smoke stack > Check at least every two weeks for build up of ash, tar, or
any other material that could restrict the amount of air flow required. Oil the blower motor bearings prior
to each heating season with 10 to 20 drops of electric motor oil.
6 Door Seals > Check firebox door and ash door seals occasionally for damage or obstructions that would
affect an airtight seal.
7 Preseason Maintenance > Review preseason heater maintenance section in owners manual prior to each
heating season.
COMPLAINT
Ground Fault
Interrupter
Receptacle
Tripping
AREA OF TROUBLE
Ground Fault Interrupter
POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
1 Moisture in receptacle
Receptacle
2 Receptacle not
grounded properly.
Forced air draft blower and
damper solenoid.
Moisture or corrosion in
electrical connections or
windings
Pump Motor Corrosion in motor
electrical connections or
windings
Liquid Level Switch, Low
water light, and Water
Bad connections possibly
to ground.
solenoid valve
1 Remove cover and check for
moisture inside box. If moisture
is present, use blow dryer to
dissipate. If moisture inside box
continues to be a problem, wrap
the box with cellophane to
protect from moisture.
2 Remove cover and check the bare
copper wire connected to the green
screw for secure attachment. Test
Receptacle for proper operation.
Check electrical connections and windings for moisture or corrosion. Clean or
dry and then test for proper operation.
Check electrical connections,
capacitor and motor winding for bad
connections or corrosion. Clean, dry
and then test for proper operation.
Check electrical connections for bad
connections or corrosion. Clean, dry
and then retest for proper operation.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 31
Section VII 7 – 5 Trouble Shooting Guide H3,H5,&H6
COMPLAINT AREA OF TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
NO HEAT
Main power
supply and
ground fault
interrupter
receptacle “OK”
Water
temperature is
“HOT”
Pump Performance Unplug pump and bypass relay by tying relay wires #4 and #6
together. Plug pump back in.
Pump does not run 1 Defective pump
cartridge
2 Defective pump
capacitor
3 Defective pump
motor winding
Pump does run 1 Defective 24 volt
transformer
2 Defective wall
thermostat (heater)
3 Defective low
temperature sensor
4 Defective pump relay
1 Unplug pump. Remove pump.
Pull cartridge from pump and
spin impeller by hand. If
impeller will not spin, replace
cartridge.
2 Use Ohmmeter. When the
meter is connected to the
capacitor, the needle should
jump towards “0” ohms and
slowly drift back to infinity.
Replace if defective.
3 Disconnect the wires
connected to the motor
terminals to test the motor
independent of electrical
connections. Check for ground
and continuity with ohmmeter
The insulator of the windings
should show no breakage. If it
does, replace pump
1 Located at existing central
unit. If 115/120 volts is being
supplied to primary side check
for 24 volts on secondary. If 24
volts not present, replace
transformer.
2 Located inside home. Remove
cover. Check for 24 volts.
Level the mounting base. Blow
dust from sensing bimetal.
Adjust heat anticipator. See
owners manual connection
instructions.
3 Remove wires on sensor and
connect to each other to
bypass. If pump runs replace
low temperature sensor.
4 Check relay terminals #7 & #8
for 24 volts. If 24 volts is
present, use ohmmeter to
check contacts. Connect
ohmmeter to terminals #4 &
#6. If no reading replace relay.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 32
Section VII 7 – 5 Trouble Shooting Guide H3,H5,&H6
COMPLAINT AREA OF TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
NO HEAT
Main power supply and ground
fault interrupter
receptacle “OK”
Water temperature is “COLD”
Aquastat
Damper solenoid
1 Defective Aquastat
1 Defective damper
solenoid
Forced Air Draft Blower
Motor
Defective blower motor
1 Defective electrical
wiring
2 Air passage stoppage
3 Blower wheel clogged
Ash Bin 1 Ash buildup in ash bin
1 Place a jumper wire across
terminal #4 on the
terminal strip. If blower and
Damper solenoid operates,
replace aquastat
1 When bypassing aquastat if
solenoid does not lift the lid off
the intake to the forced air draft
blower, replace the solenoid.
1 Make sure all connections are
secure.
2 Clear air passages in cleanout
and damper blower outlets
3 Clear blower wheel of any
lint, ashes or creosote
buildup.
1 Clean out ash bin. Ash bin
should be cleaned out each
week. Ash buildup on grates
can cause grates to warp. If
grates warp they can be
turned over and allowed to
straighten. When removing
ashes, leave at least 1/2” to 1”
of ashes in bottom of ash pan
No Heat
Water Level is
“LOW”
Water temperature
is “HOT”
Main power supply and Ground
Fault Interrupter
Receptacle “OK”
Heater Stack 1 Ash and Creosote
Buildup
Water supply
Defective Liquid Level
Switch.
Water solenoid valve 1 Defective solenoid
valve
2 Water filter
1 Clean heater stack of any ash
and creosote buildup. On H4
models make sure the baffle
plate is clear of ash and
creosote buildup. Make sure
baffle is in place, otherwise
heat will be lost up the stack.
Liquid level switch controls the
water level indicator light and water
solenoid valve. Check switch with
hand by raising or lowering float
inside the condenser area. If water
solenoid does not click and light
does not go on and off, replace the
liquid level switch.
1 If water solenoid valve does
not click when checking the
liquid level switch, but level
indicator light does come on –
replace solenoid valve.
2 Remove filter screen from 1/2”
bushing in end of 1/2” ball
valve, clean or replace.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 33
Section VII 7 – 5 Trouble Shooting Guide H3,H5,&H6
COMPLAINT AREA OF TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
NO HEAT
Blowing cold air
in house
Water
temperature is
“HOT”
Power “OK”
Excessive wood
usage
Or
Overheating
(boiling)
Water not circulating
through the heat loop
Heater water boils
(Symptom –Popoff valve is
relieving)
1 Pump not operating
2 Inline valves closed/bad
3 Air trapped in plumbing
4 Scale deposits in hot
water coil reducing
water flow and
restricting heat transfer.
5 Air lock in hot water
coil.
1 Doors open
2 Defective door seals
1 See area of trouble: “Pump
Operation”
2 Open or replace valves
3 Bleed lines if air is trapped
non pressured lines require
pump to be running.
4 Disconnect the inlet and
outlet of the hot water coil
and pump clean with descale
cleaning kit.
5 Bleed air from hot water coil
1 Close all doors and make
sure they are securely
fastened.
2 If the seal is bad it will need
replacing. Call your local
Hardy Dealer for parts. See
Owners Manual for replacing
door seals.
3 Damper blower lid
stuck open
4 Damper aquastat
defective
5 Water lines /
3 Unplug blower motor. Check
lid and blower for creosote
buildup. Remove blower,
dissemble, clean, and oil.
4 Check temperature setting on
aquastat. Should be 170ºF. If
aquastat is allowing blower to
run until water boils, replace
aquastat.
5 Repair or replace all lines or
connections that are leaking.
connections leaking
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 34
Section VII 7 – 5 Trouble Shooting Guide H3,H5,&H6
COMPLAINT AREA OF TROUBLE POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIVE ACTION
Excessive wood
usage
Or
Overheating
(boiling)
Excessive wood usage
Symptom;
Pop off valve is relieving
Heater water overflowing
1 Pop-off valve
2 Defective Liquid Level
Switch.
3 Solenoid valve stuck
or corroded
4 Domestic hot water
heat exchanger coil
leaking.
1 If Pop – off valve is relieving
for no reason, replace pop – off
valve
2 Check liquid level switch float
for upright position, float
magnets should be on top.
Check switch by moving float
up and down to see if solenoid
clicks and light goes on and
off, if not replace switch
3 If solenoid does click and the
heater still overflows, it could
be stuck in open position, remove and clean or replace.
4 Disconnect line to the electric
water solenoid and turn off
valve to system fill to assure no
water enters tank from the fill
system. If heater tank still
overfills then remove heater
hull and lid to check domestic
water coil for leaks, repair or
replace.
Improper Burning
Fire box
Grates Grates stopped up Clear grate of ash buildup. If
grates are warped, turn over.
Air intake Damper blower clogged Clean damper blower assembly
Air tube inspection lid Air tube clogged Lift inspection lid and cleanout
all obstructions
Smoke Stack Smoke stack stopped up Remove smoke stack, check flue
out of top of heater, clean both
flue pipe and smoke stack
Baffle (Model H4 Only)
Baffle stopped up
Fire Fire going out
Forced air blower running
but no draft
Fire boxMoisture In
1 Solenoid not lifting lid
2 Creosote buildup
1 Initial or yearly start
up
2 Green Wood
Remove baffle through the fire box
door, clean baffle and flue area.
If fire goes completely out remove
one screw in blower lid.
1 Replace solenoid
2 See excessive wood usage
1 Fire box walls will sweat and
water will run down sides, this
should clear up in about a
week.
2 Green wood will create
moisture at any time.
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 35
Section VIII Repair Parts (Model H3, H5, & H6)
Legend Part No. Description
1 600.10 1/2” Brass Elbow
2 800.10 1/2” Overflow pipe
3 1100.27 Low water switch
4 604.32 3/4” Brass caps
1
2
4 5
16
17
3
6
7
8
14
15
18
9
10
11
10
12
13
12
5 604.16 1/2” Brass cap
6 2000.08 Well fitting
7 2000.08 Honeywell Hi-temp Thermostat
8 2004.08 8’ 2 wire power cord
9 600.30 3/4” Brass elbow
10 603.32 3/4” x 6” Brass nipple
11 607.12 3/4” Brass ball valve
12 502.40 3/4” Bronze flange
13 502.08 Taco 009 Bronze pump w/ power cord
for H3 & H5 Models
508.09 Taco 008 Bronze pump w/ power cord
for H6 Model
14 2000.52 Relay
15 2001.00 Dormeyer damper solenoid
16 2004.16 Receptacle box
17 2004.00 GFCI Receptacle
18 3200.12 Jack chain
19 2002.04 60 CFM blower w/lid for H6 Model
2002.16 100 CFM blower w/lid for H3 Model
2002.28 130 CFM blower w/ lid for H5 Model
20 603.40 3/4” x close nipple
21 602.16 3/4” Brass tee
22 607.42 3/4” Boiler drain
22
19
4
11
20
21
4
HARDY MANUFACTURING CO., INC (MODEL H3, H5, & H6) PAGE 36
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