Hangar 9 sopwith camel 60 arf Assembly Manual

Sopwith Camel 60 ARF

®

Assembly mAnuAl

Specifications

Wingspan ....................................... 61 in (1551mm)

Wing Area

......................... 1236 sq in (79.7 sq dm)

Length ......................................... 41.3 in (1050mm)

Weight .......................... 7.25–8.75 lb (3.3kg–4.0kg)

Table of Contents

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

UltraCote® Covering Colors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Radio and Power Systems Requirements
Field Equipment Required
Optional Field Equipment
Required Tools and Adhesives
Limited Warranty Period
Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Safety Precautions
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Questions or Assistance
Inspection or Repairs
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
Non-Warranty Repairs
Safety, Precautions, and Warnings
Before Starting Assembly
Using the Manual
Section 1: Cabane Strut Installation
Section 2: Landing Gear Installation

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Section 3A: Engine Installation
Section 3B: Electric Motor Installation
Section 4: Cowling Installation
Section 5: Aileron Servo Installation
Section 6: Bottom Wing Installation
Section 7: Top Wing Installation
Section 8: Tail Installation
Section 9: Radio Installation
Section 10: Rigging Installation
Section 11: Center of Gravity (CG)
Control Throws
Adjusting the Engine

Pre-Flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Range Test Your Radio

Notes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

2006 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

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Contents of Kit

H

A

I

K

C

D

J

G

F

F

B

E

C

D

Replacement Parts

A. Fuselage HAN4226
B. Fuselage Hatch HAN4227
C. Top Wing Set HAN4228
D. Bottom Wing Set HAN4229
E. Tail Set HAN4230
F. Landing Gear HAN4231
G. Wheel Set HAN4232
H. Fiberglass Cowl HAN4233
I. Dummy Engine HAN4234
J. Strut Set HAN4235
K. Fuel Tank HAN4241

Items not shown

Tail Skid HAN4236
Pushrod Set HAN4237
Flying Wire Set HAN4238
Aluminum Wing Tube HAN4239
EP Motor Mount HAN4245
Glow Motor Mount HAN40M
O-Rings (10) (for landing gear) HAN4240

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UltraCote® Covering Colors

• Olive Drab HANU904 • White HANU870

• True Red HANU866 • Deep Blue HANU873

• Grey HANU882 • Silver HANU881

Radio and Power Systems Requirements

• 4-Channel radio system (minimum) w/receiver

• 537 Standard Servo (JRPS537) (5) or equivalent
(4 required when building the electric version)

• 9" Servo Lead Extension (JRPA097) (2)

• 6” Y-Harness (JSP98020)

Recommended JR Systems

• XP9303

• XP6102

• XP662

• XF631

• XF421EX

Recommended Power Systems

• .61 2-stroke

• .72–.82 4-stroke

• Power 46 Brushless Outrunner

Evolution .61NT

EVOE0610

JR XP9303

Saito .82 AAC

SAIE082A

JR XP6102

Power 46 Brushless

Outrunner Motor, 670KV

EFLM4046A

Field Equipment Required

• Propeller • Fuel

• Long Reach Glow Plug Wrench (HAN2510) • Metered Glow Driver w/Ni-Cd & Charger (HAN7101)

• 2-Cycle Sport Plug (HAN3001) • 2-Cycle Super Plug (HAN3006)

• 4-Cycle Super Plug (HAN3011) • Manual Fuel Pump (HAN118)

Optional Field Equipment

• 12V 7Ah Sealed Battery (HAN102) • PowerPro™ 12V Starter (HAN161)

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Required Tools and Adhesives

Tools

• Drill • T-pins

• Adjustable wrench • Hex wrench: 7/64", 3/32"

• Hobby knife • Hobby scissors

• Phillips screwdriver • Pliers

• Side cutters • Nut driver: 5.5mm

• 4-40 tap • Tap handle

• Crimping tool

• Drill bits: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm), 3/32" (2.5mm)
1/8" (3mm), $43, 5/32" (4mm)

Adhesives

• 6-minute epoxy (HAN8000) • 30-minute epoxy (HAN8002)

• Thin CA • Canopy glue

• Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo • Threadlock

• Medium CA

Other Required Items

• Epoxy brushes • Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Measuring device (e.g. ruler, tape measure) • Mixing sticks for epoxy

• Paper towels • Rubbing alcohol

• Masking tape • Sanding bar

• Sandpaper • Rotary tool w/sanding drum

• Sealing Iron (HAN101) • Covering Glove (HAN150)

• Sealing Iron Sock (HAN141) • Soldering iron

• Solder • Deans connector (male) (3)

• Deans connector (female) • Cardstock

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Limited Warranty Period

Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this product to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date
of purchase.

Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability

Pursuant to this Limited Warranty, Horizon Hobby, Inc. will, at its option, (i) repair or (ii) replace, any product determined
by Horizon Hobby, Inc. to be defective. In the event of a defect, these are your exclusive remedies.

This warranty does not cover cosmetic damage or damage due to acts of God, accident, misuse, abuse, negligence,
commercial use, or modification of or to any part of the product. This warranty does not cover damage due to improper
installation, operation, maintenance, or attempted repair by anyone other than an authorized Horizon Hobby, Inc. service
center. This warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is not transferable. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased product and will not cover consequential, incidental or collateral
damage. Horizon Hobby, Inc. reserves the right to inspect any and all equipment involved in a warranty claim. Repair
or replacement decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.

REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER.
HORIZON HOBBY, INC. SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.

As Horizon Hobby, Inc. has no control over use, setup, final assembly, modification or misuse, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury. By the act of use, setup or assembly, the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If you as the purchaser or user are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, you are
advised to return this product immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Safety Precautions

This is a sophisticated hobby product and not a toy. It must be operated with caution and common sense and requires
some basic mechanical ability. Failure to operate this product in a safe and responsible manner could result in injury or
damage to the product or other property. This product is not intended for use by children without direct adult supervision.

The product manual contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance. It is essential to read and follow all the
instructions and warnings in the manual, prior to assembly, setup or use, in order to operate correctly and avoid damage
or injury.

Questions, Assistance, and Repairs

Your local hobby store and/or place of purchase cannot provide warranty support or repair. Once assembly, setup or use
of the product has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly. This will enable Horizon to better answer
your questions and service you in the event that you may need any assistance.

Questions or Assistance

For questions or assistance, please direct your email to [e-mail], or call 877.504.0233 toll
free to speak to a service technician.

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Inspection or Repairs

If your product needs to be inspected or repaired, please call for a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA). Pack the
product securely using a shipping carton. Please note that original boxes may be included, but are not designed to
withstand the rigors of shipping without additional protection. Ship via a carrier that provides tracking and insurance for
lost or damaged parcels, as Horizon Hobby, Inc. is not responsible for merchandise until it arrives and is accepted at
our facility. Include your complete name, address, phone number where you can be reached during business days, RMA
number, and a brief summary of the problem. Be sure your name, address, and RMA number are clearly written on the
shipping carton.

Warranty Inspection and Repairs

To receive warranty service, you must include your original sales receipt verifying the proof-of-purchase date. Providing
warranty conditions have been met, your product will be repaired or replaced free of charge. Repair or replacement
decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby.

Non-Warranty Repairs

Should your repair not be covered by warranty and the expense exceeds 50% of the retail purchase cost, you will be
provided with an estimate advising you of your options. You will be billed for any return freight for non-warranty repairs.
Please advise us of your preferred method of payment. Horizon Hobby accepts money orders and cashiers checks, as
well as Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and Discover cards. If you choose to pay by credit card, please include your
credit card number and expiration date. Any repair left unpaid or unclaimed after 90 days will be considered abandoned
and will be disposed of accordingly.

Electronics and engines requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):

Horizon Service Center

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

All other products requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):

Horizon Product Support

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

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Safety, Precautions, and Warnings

As the user of this product, you are solely responsible for operating it in manner that does not endanger yourself and
others or result in damage to the product or the property of others.

Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable battery
packs, etc.) that you use.

This model is controlled by a radio signal that is subject to interference from many sources outside your control. This
interference can cause momentary loss of control so it is necessary to always keep a safe distance in all directions around
your model, as this margin will help to avoid collisions or injury.

• Always operate your model in an open area away from cars, traffic, or people.

• Avoid operating your model in the street where injury or damage can occur.

• Never operate the model out into the street or populated areas for any reason.

• Never operate your model with low transmitter batteries.

• Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable
battery packs, etc.) that you use.

• Keep all chemicals, small parts and anything electrical out of the reach of children.

• Moisture causes damage to electronics. Avoid water exposure to all equipment not specifically designed and protected
for this purpose.

Before Starting Assembly

Before beginning the assembly of the Sopwith Camel, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the
fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the place of
purchase.

If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or sealing iron to remove them. Use caution while working around
areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.

HAN101 – Sealing Iron

HAN141 – Sealing Iron

Sock

HAN100 – Heat Gun

HAN150 – Covering Glove

Using the Manual

This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand, and to provide breaks between each
major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next to each step to keep track of each step completed. Steps
with a single box (
repeating, such as for a right or left wing panel, two servos, etc. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.

) are performed once, while steps with two boxes ( ) indicate that the step will require

8

Section 1: Cabane Strut Installation

Required Parts

• Front cabane strut (R&L)

• Rear cabane strut (R&L)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (4)

• 4-40 x 1/4" socket head screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hex wrench: 3/32" • Threadlock

With so many parts in this model, we are
going to start with some easy items to help
reduce the amount of parts you have to
keep track of. The best way to do this is to
attach the cabane struts to the fuselage.

 Step 1

Locate two of the cabane struts. Make sure you grab a
pair, as they have an airfoil shape to them. Slide them into
the slots in the front of the fuselage behind the firewall
with the wide side of the airfoil towards the front, just like
a wing. Check that the tab at the top faces away from the
centerline of the fuselage.

 Step 2

Use four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws to secure the
front struts to the fuselage. Blind nuts have been installed
inside the fuselage for the screws to thread into.

Note: Make sure to use threadlock on all four
screws to prevent them from vibrating loose.

 Step 3

Important: Check that the front struts

have been installed in the front. This can be
determined by the angle of the tab. When
installed correctly, the tab will be parallel
to the top of the fuselage opening.

Slide the two remaining struts into the slots towards the
center of the fuselage opening, making sure they are
positioned correctly.

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Section 1: Cabane Strut Installation

 Step 4

Secure the struts using four 4-40 x 1/4" socket head
screws. Again, use threadlock on the screws to prevent
them from vibrating loose.

Hint: Check the positions of the rear tabs in
comparison to the front tabs. They should be
parallel to each other and to the top of the
fuselage opening. If you didn’t see it back
in Step 1, you will certainly notice now.

Section 2: Landing Gear Installation

Required Parts

• Landing gear (R&L) • Tail skid

• Steel axle guide (2) • 3mm setscrew (2)

• 4mm washer (2) • 4mm locknut (2)

• Rubber O-ring (6) • Scale wheel (2)

• Landing gear cross brace

• Landing gear strap (5)

• 3mm x 12mm sheet metal screw (10)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hex wrench (included) • Threadlock

• Phillips screwdriver

• 5.5mm nut driver or adjustable wrench

The Sopwith features a scale landing gear
that uses O-rings to act as shock absorbers.
It is just a little more complicated than
a regular landing gear to install. It also
features a scale landing skid rather then the
usual tail wheel. These are great features
and details that add to the final results.

 Step 1

Place the tail skid into the pre-drilled hole at the aft end
of the fuselage.

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Section 2: Landing Gear Installation

 Step 2

Use a landing gear strap and two 3mm x 12mm sheet
metal screws to secure the tail skid into position.

 Step 3

Place either the right or left landing gear into position on
the bottom of the fuselage. Use two landing gear straps
and four 3mm x 12mm sheet metal screws to secure the
gear to the fuselage.

 Step 4

Slide the landing gear cross brace through the landing
gear. Make sure both the airfoils are facing the correct
direction, and that the flat spot in the axle faces toward the
ground when the plane is resting upright (or away from
the fuselage).

 Step 5

Position the remaining landing gear onto the fuselage,
passing the cross brace through the gear. Secure the
landing gear to the fuselage with two landing gear straps
and four 3mm x 12mm sheet metal screws.

Note: Although this is obvious, the gear
angles out away from the fuselage centerline
and towards the front of the fuselage.

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Section 2: Landing Gear Installation

 Step 6

Attach the steel axle guide to the landing gear using a
3mm setscrew and threadlock. The setscrew tightens
onto the flat of the axle to keep the cross brace from
rotating. Position the second steel axle guide onto the
cross brace. Secure it into position using a 3mm
setscrew and threadlock.

Hint: You can pre-stretch the O-rings slightly
before installing them, similar to that of pre­stretching a balloon before blowing it up.

Note: Rubber bands can also be used
in place of the O-rings in the case of
an O-ring becoming damaged.

 Step 8

Slide the scale wheel onto the axle. Slide a 4mm washer
onto the axle, and then tighten a 4mm nut onto the axle to
secure the wheel. Tighten the nut enough to limit the play
of the wheel on the axle, but leave it loose enough so the
wheel can rotate freely.

Note: It may be necessary to adjust
the steel axle guides until the cross
brace can move up and down with
as little interference as possible.

 Step 7

Place three rubber O-rings onto the landing gear as
shown. The O-rings will keep the cross brace in the
“down” position when installed. The O-rings must be very
tight to stop the axle from rotating.

12

Section 3A: Engine Installation

Required Parts

• 8-32 washer (12) • 8-32 locknut (4)

• Fuel tank • Tie-wrap (2)

• Engine mount (R&L)

• 8-32 x 1" machine screw (4)

• 8-32 x 1

• 16

• 14

1

/4" machine screw (4)

1

/2" (420mm) pushrod tube

1

/4" (362mm) threaded pushrod wire

• Nylon clevis w/retainer

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 5/32” (4mm)

• Felt-tipped pen • Threadlock

• Phillips screwdriver • Engine

• Medium grit sandpaper • Side cutters

• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towel

• Medium CA

 Step 1

 Step 2

Position the engine onto the engine mount. Move the
engine fore and aft until the front of the drive washer is
5 1/2" (140mm) from the front of the firewall. Mark the
locations for the engine mounting bolts onto the engine
mount using a felt-tipped pen.

Attach the engine mount onto the firewall using four
8-32 x 1" machine screws and four #8 washers.

Note: Use threadlock on the screws to
prevent them from vibrating loose.

Hint: Use small clamps to hold the engine
in position when marking the mount.

 Step 3

Use a drill and 5/32" (4mm) drill bit to drill the four
locations for the engine mounting bolts.

Hint: Removing the engine mounts from the
fuselage and using a drill press is highly
recommended as this will allow the holes
to be drilled perpendicular to the mounts.

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Section 3A: Engine Installation

 Step 4

Attach the engine to the engine mount using four
8-32 x 1

1

/4" machine screws, four 8-32 lock nuts and

eight #8 washers.

Hint: If you are having trouble getting to the
screws, remove the mount from the firewall
and install the screws holding the engine.
Reattach the mount back onto the firewall once
the engine is secure. This is also helpful with
the Evolution .61 as the needle valve will need
to be removed to access the left rear screw.

 Step 5

Use a felt-tipped pen to mark the firewall in the area that
will allow the throttle pushrod line up with the carburetor
throttle arm.

 Step 6

Use a drill and 5/32" (4mm) drill bit to drill the location
for the throttle pushrod tube.

Hint: You may have to remove the engine
from the firewall as shown. Even better
is to have an extended length drill bit
that can reach back to the firewall.

 Step 7

Roughen the throttle pushrod tube using medium grit
sandpaper. Wipe the tube down using rubbing alcohol
and a paper towel to remove any oils from the tube. Slide
the tube into the hole in the firewall, leaving about 1/2"
(13mm) protruding from the firewall. Use medium CA to
glue the tube to the firewall.

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Section 3A: Engine Installation

 Step 8

Use side cutters to trim the throttle pushrod tube at the
front edge of the servo tray.

 Step 9

Place a clevis retainer onto a nylon clevis. Thread the
clevis about 14 turns onto the throttle pushrod wire.

 Step 10

Slide the throttle pushrod into the throttle pushrod tube.
Attach the clevis to the throttle arm of the engine.

 Step 11

Attach the muffler to the engine. Adjust the output
of the muffler so it faces down and away from the
fuselage. Use the instructions provided with your
engine for this procedure.

15

Section 3A: Engine Installation

 Step 12

Place the two tie wraps into the fuselage as shown.
Make sure you will be able to access them once the
fuel tank has been placed into the fuselage, as these
will hold the tank in position.

 Step 13

Place the fuel tank into the fuselage. The stopper in the
tank faces towards the bottom of the fuselage. Slide the
stopper into the opening of the firewall. Secure the fuel
tank using the tie wraps placed in the fuselage in the
previous step.

 Step 14

Connect the lines from the fuel tank to the engine. The
red tube goes to the needle valve, while the green
tube goes to the muffler. Trim the length of the tube as
necessary to prevent them from getting entangled with
the engine or pushrod.

Hint: You can install a fuel filler valve between
the fuel tank and engine to make fueling easier.

Hint: Trim the excess tie wraps
using side cutters for a cleaner
installation of the fuel tank.

16

Section 3B: Electric Motor Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Motor mount side (2)

• 8-32 washer (8) • 8-32 locknut (4)

• Motor mount front

• 8-32 x 1/2" machine screw (4)

• 8-32 x 1/2" socket head screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Phillips screwdriver • Threadlock

• Hex wrench: 7/64" • Adjustable wrench

• Soldering iron • Solder

• Female Deans connector w/wire

• Male Deans connector (3)

 Step 1

Attach the motor mount to the firewall using the four
8-32 x 1/2" machine screws and four 8-32 washers.
Apply threadlock on the screws to prevent them from
vibrating loose.

 Step 3

Mount the motor to the motor mount front using hardware
included with the motor.

 Step 4

Attach the motor mount front to the motor mount sides
using four 8-32 x 1/2" socket head screws, four #8
washers and four 8-32 lock nuts. Position the motor
mount front so it is 5" (127mm) from the firewall.

 Step 2

Depending on your motor selection, you’ll need to have
the motor output shaft protruding through the non-rotating
end of the motor. Follow the instructions included with
your motor if necessary to relocate the output shaft.

17

Section 3B: Electric Motor Installation

 Step 5

Build a wiring harness for the batteries using a female
connector and two male connectors. Follow the wiring
in the photo so the motor sees the voltage increase of
the two batteries.

 Step 6

Solder the appropriate connectors onto the speed control.

 Step 7

Plug the motor into the speed control. Secure the batteries
using the hook and loop strap. Plug the speed control into
the receiver. Mount the speed control inside the fuselage
so it will not interfere with the installation and removal of
the batteries.

Note: Apply a piece of hook and loop (not
included) in the batteries and battery tray if
you find the batteries slide forward or aft.

Note: If you only plan on using this controller
in your Sopwith, you can combine Steps 5
and 6 by incorporating the harness with the
speed control so the controller is positioned
in place of the single female connector.

 Step 8

Turn on the radio system. Plug the wiring harness
assembled in Step 5 into the batteries and speed control.
Use the throttle on the transmitter to check that everything
is working correctly. Check that the motor is rotating
counter-clockwise. If not, follow the directions included
with the speed control to correct the situation.

 Step 9

Once the motor is working and rotating in the correct
direction, unplug the wiring harness for safety.

18

Section 4: Cowling Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly • Cowling

• Dummy radial engine •#4 washer (4)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 6-minute epoxy • Hobby scissors

• Hobby knife • Drill

• Drill bit: 1/8" (3mm) • Masking tape

• Cardstock • Felt-tipped pen

The installation of the cowling will
complete the main fuselage assembly.
We can then move along to getting
the wings prepped and installed.

 Step 1

Use a hobby knife and hobby scissors to trim the material
from between the cylinders and from the center of the
dummy radial engine.

 Step 2

Test fit the cowling onto the fuselage. Make any marks
necessary to fit the cowling over the engine. Use hobby
scissors and a rotary tool with a sanding drum to trim the
cowl to fit.

 Step 3

Once the cowl has been trimmed, use 6-minute epoxy
to glue the dummy radial into the cowling. Once the
epoxy fully cures, trim the radial engine as necessary to
fit over the engine.

19

Section 4: Cowling Installation

 Step 4

Cut four strips of card stock and make a 1/8" (3mm)
hole in the end of each. Tape the card stock onto the
fuselage so the holes align with the holes in the cowl
mounting blocks.

 Step 5

Position the cowling onto the fuselage. Trim the dummy
radial engine as necessary to fit over the engine. The cowl
should fit onto the fuselage so the drive washer extends
about 1/8" (3mm) or so in front of the dummy radial.
Use a felt-tipped pen to transfer the position for the cowl
mounting screws onto the cowl.

 Step 6

Drill the holes in the cowl for the mounting screws using a
1/8" (3mm) drill bit. Slide a #4 washer onto a 4-40 x 1/2"
socket head screw. Secure the cowling using four of the
4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws.

Note: Cut a thin 5/64" (2mm) piece
of the fuel tubing to slide on the screw
following the washer. This will help
prevent the screws from vibrating loose.

 Step 7

Install an appropriate propeller for your selected engine.

20

Section 5: Aileron Servo Installation

Required Parts

• Bottom wing (R&L)

• 5/8" x 7/16" x 7/16" (16mm x 11mmx 11mm)
aileron servo block (4)

• 2mm x 10mm sheet metal screw (8)

• Control horn w/backplate (2)

• 2mm x 20mm sheet metal screw (6)

3

• 3

/8" (86mm) threaded pushrod wire (2)

• Nylon clevis w/retainer (2)

• Pushrod connector (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Aileron servo (2) • 6-minute epoxy

• Felt-tipped pen • Drill

• Side cutters • Hobby knife

• Phillips screwdriver

• Servo extension, 18" (457mm)

• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 3/32" (2.5mm)

  Step 2

Remove the servo hatch from the wing. Place the servo
onto the hatch, centering the servo arm in the opening.
Also position the servo so the centerline of the arm is
aligned with the edge of the hatch to prevent interference
between the arm and the wing or hatch. Use a felt-tipped
pen to transfer the location of the servo onto the hatch.

Although there are four ailerons to deal with,
you will only have to install two servos. As
such, make sure to use quality servos, as
each servo will be operating two ailerons.

  Step 1

Plug one of the aileron servos into the receiver. Turn on
the radio and the receiver and center the aileron stick and
trim. Install a long servo horn onto the servo. Attach an
18" (457mm) servo extension onto the servo lead. Use
thread or a commercially available connector to keep the
extension from unplugging from the servo lead.

  Step 3

Position the blocks onto the hatch. Check to make
sure that neither block extends beyond the hatch,
preventing the hatch from being installed. If so, move
the offending block fully onto the hatch, position the
servo back onto the hatch, and mark a new location
for the remaining block.

21

Section 5: Aileron Servo Installation

  Step 4

Once the blocks have been positioned and the servo will
fit between the block, use 6-minute epoxy to glue the
blocks securely to the hatch.

Note: The block must be glued to the hatch
so they won’t pop loose. Remember we have
the load of two ailerons being transferred
to the servo and blocks, not just one.

  Step 5

Once the epoxy has fully cured, position the servo back
onto the servo hatch between the blocks. Use a felt-tipped
pen to mark the location for the servo mounting screws.

  Step 7

Thread a clevis onto one of the longer pushrod wires.
Pass the wire into the wing. Attach the servo extension to
the clevis and pull it through the wing.

  Step 6

Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill the four locations
marks in the previous step. Attach the servo to the blocks
using the screws provided wit the servo. Use side cutters
to trim the excess arm so only the portion of the servo
arm extending to the outside of the hatch remains.

Hint: You can tie a weight to a
string and use that as well to pull
the servo lead through the wing.

22

Section 5: Aileron Servo Installation

  Step 8

Secure the servo hatch to the wing using four
2mm x 10mm sheet metal screws.

Hint: Use a T-pin to poke through the
covering on the backside of the hatch to leave
indications where the holes are in the hatch.

  Step 10

Remove the backplate from the control horn using a
sharp hobby knife. Attach the clevis to the middle hole
of the control horn. Position the horn onto the wing so
the holes in the horn align with the hinge line of the
aileron. The pushrod wire will run to the outside of the
servo horn and be parallel to the horn as well. Use a
felt-tipped pen to mark the locations for the three control
horn mounting screws.

  Step 9

Locate the 3
clevis retainer. Slide the retainer onto the clevis, and then
thread the clevis about 14 turns onto the pushrod wire.

3

/8" (86mm) pushrod wire, nylon clevis and

  Step 11

Drill the three locations for the control horn screws using
a 3/32" (2.5mm) drill bit. Apply a couple drops of thin CA
into each of the holes to harden the underlying balsa.

23

Section 5: Aileron Servo Installation

  Step 12

Attach the control horn to the aileron using three 2mm x
20mm sheet metal screws and the control horn backplate.

Hint: Wrap a small piece of low-tack tape
around the aileron and wing to hold the
aileron in the neutral position. This will
come in handy when installing the linkage
between the upper and lower ailerons.

  Step 14

Use pliers to bend the pushrod at a 90-degree angle at the
mark made in the last step. Enlarge the holes in the servo
arm using a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit. Pass the bend through
the outer hole and secure the pushrod wire to the arm
using a pushrod connector.

  Step 13

Make sure the aileron servo is centered using the radio
system. Center the aileron and use a felt-tipped pen to
mark the aileron pushrod where it crosses the servo arm.

Hint: Use side cutters to remove the excess
pushrod wire. Use a file to smooth the end of
the cut so it doesn’t snag on your shirt or skin.

 Step 15

Repeat Steps 1 through 14 for the remaining aileron servo.

24

Section 6: Bottom Wing Installation

Required Parts

• Bottom wing (R&L) • Wing tube

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (4)

•#4 washer (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: #43

• 4-40 tap • Threadlock

Installing the bottom wing isn’t tricky, but
will require drilling and tapping a couple
of holes. Once the bottom wing is in place,
we can move on to installing the top wing,
making this look more like a biplane.

 Step 1

Slide the wing tube into one of the bottom wing panels.
Carefully drill a #43 hole into the wing tube, being careful
not to damage the wing.

 Step 2

After drilling the hole, use a 4-40 tap to tap the hole
for the screw.

Hint: It is easier to leave the tube in
position when tapping the hole. This
will make lining up the hole in the wing
much easier in the following step.

 Step 3

Use a 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw and #4 washer to
secure the tube into the wing. Place a drop of threadlock
on this screw only, as you will probably not remove this
in the future.

25

Section 6: Bottom Wing Installation

 Step 4

Slide the wing (and tube) into the fuselage. Carefully push
the wing tight against the fuselage, and then use a #43
drill to drill for the anti-rotation screw through the hole in
the fuselage. Again, use care not to let the drill bit slip and
damage the fuselage or wing.

 Step 6

Slide the remaining wing panel into position. While
holding it tight against the fuselage, drill the hole for the
wing tube and the anti-rotation pin. After threading both
holes, secure the wing using two 4-40 x 1/2" socket head
screws and two #4 washers.

 Step 5

Use a 4-40 tap to thread the hole. Secure the wing to
the fuselage using a 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw and
a #4 washer.

Hint: When removing the bottom wing,
remove the three socket head screws that do
not have threadlock. Leaving the final screw in
place will save you some time in trying to line
up the hole with the screw in the wing tube.

26

Section 7: Top Wing Installation

Required Parts

• Covering (green) • Covering (grey)

• 4-40 locknut (8) •#4 washer (4)

• Top wing (R&L)

• Wing joiner (5

7

/8" x 1/2" x 3/16")

(150mm x 13mm x 5mm)

• Joiner dowel (1/4" x 2

3

/8") (6mm x 60mm)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (12)

• 4-40 x 5/8" socket head screw (8)

• Interplane strut (long) (2)

• Interplane strut (short) (2)

• Interplane bracket (8)

• Aileron slave linkage control horn (grey) (2)

• Aileron slave linkage control horn (green) (2)

• Aileron slave linkage (2)

• Nylon clevis w/retainer (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 30-minute epoxy • 6-minute epoxy

• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towel

• Masking tape • Sandpaper

• Threadlock

 Step 1

Locate the wing joiner and the joiner dowel. Test fit them
into one of the top wing panels.

 Step 2

Test fit the remaining panel onto the joiner and dowel.
The two panels should fit tightly together. Sand the
joiner if necessary so the two panels fit together as
tightly as possible.

Now comes the fun part: The top wing
installation! This will include joining the
wing, installing the interplane struts, and the
installation of the aileron joining linkage. It’s
a good idea to grab your favorite beverage
and work slowly through this, as it will
take a fair amount of time to complete.

Note: Make sure you can perform the
following step in the amount of time it
takes for the epoxy to cure. You may want
to glue the joiner and dowel in one panel
and clean up the excess epoxy if you work
slowly to prevent having the two panels out
of alignment or not joined tightly together.

27

Section 7: Top Wing Installation

 Step 3

Once the two panels have been fit together, mix up about
1/2 oz. (15ML) of 30-minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to
all sides of the joiner and to the joiner dowel. Also apply
epoxy to the openings in the panels where the joiner and
dowel fit. Slide the joiner and dowel into the panel. Then
slide the remaining panel into position. Use a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol to remove excess epoxy. Use tape to
hold the two panels together until the epoxy fully cures.

Note: The squared end of the
bracket is the one the screw goes
through to attach to the wing.

Hint: If you are planning on installing
the rigging between the top and bottom
wings, you may want to take a quick look
at Section 10: Rigging Installation before
installing the brackets and attaching
the top wing to the cabane struts.

 Step 5

Attach four interplane brackets to the top of the bottom
wing using four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws. The
brackets face towards the wing tip of their respective wing
panels. Leave the screw slightly loose for now so the
brackets can be adjusted when installing the interplane
struts.

 Step 4

Attach four interplane brackets to the bottom of the
top wing using four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws.
The brackets face towards the wing tip of their respective
wing panels. Leave the screws slightly loose for now
so the brackets can be adjusted when installing the
interplane struts.

28

Section 7: Top Wing Installation

 Step 6

Use four 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screws to attach the top
wing to the cabane struts.

 Step 7

Locate the interplane struts. There are two shorter struts
that are positioned at the leading edge of the wing. The
two shorter struts positioned at the trailing edge of the
wing. Install the interplane struts between the top and
bottom wing using eight 4-40 x 5/8" socket head screws
and eight 4-40 locknuts.

Note: Once the struts have been attached,
check that they are in line with each other.
This is done by tweaking the brackets slightly.
Once aligned, the brackets can be fully
tightened and threadlock placed on each of
the screws holding the brackets to the wing.

 Step 8

Lightly sand the bottom of the aileron slave linkage
control horns to remove the paint where they will be
inserted into the wing.

29

Section 7: Top Wing Installation

 Step 9

Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the aileron slave linkage
control horns into the slots in the upper and lower
ailerons. Remember to place the green horn into the top of
the ailerons so it blends with the covering on the wing.

 Step 10

Complete the aileron slave linkage by placing a clevis
retainer onto a clevis. Thread the clevis onto the threaded
end of the linkage. Repeat for both ends of the linkage.

 Step 11

With the radio system on and the aileron servos operating,
attach the slave linkage to the bottom aileron. Thread
the clevises either in or out so when the top clevis is in
position, the top aileron is centered.

Note: Be careful not to push the horn
through the opposite side of the ailerons.

30

Section 8: Tail Installation

Required Parts

• Rudder • Elevator (2)

• Fin • Stabilizer

• CA hinge (9)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 30-minute epoxy • Paper towel

• Rubbing alcohol • Hobby knife

• T-pins • Drill

• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm)

This is the last major airframe
assembly before moving on to the radio
installation and installing the rigging.
After installing the tail, you’ll get to see
exactly what your Sopwith looks like.

 Step 1

Locate the stabilizer and fin. Remove the tape holding
the elevators from the stabilizer, and the tape holding the
rudder to the fin.

 Step 2

Test fit the tab from the fin into the slot in the stabilizer.
Use a square to check the alignment of the fin to the
stabilizer. Lightly sand the tab on the fin if necessary for
alignment purposes.

 Step 3

Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin and stabilizer
together. Check that they stay perpendicular to each other
while the epoxy cures.

 Step 4

Carefully remove about the first 1/8" (3mm) of
covering from the forward edge of the fin below the
stabilizer as shown.

31

Parallel

Section 8: Tail Installation

 Step 5

Carefully remove the covering from the stabilizer
saddle on the fuselage. Do not change the shape of
the saddle by accident.

 Step 6

Slide the stabilizer assembly onto the fuselage. Check that
the stabilizer is parallel to the wings, and that the fin runs
down the centerline of the fuselage.

 Step 7

Use a felt-tipped pen to trace the outline of the fuselage
onto the bottom of the stabilizer. Also trace the top of the
fuselage where it meets the stabilizer.

Hint: It is easier to reference the top
wing and stabilizer as the top wing has
less dihedral than the bottom wing.

32

Note: You will want to have as much
gluing surface as possible to secure
the stabilizer to the fuselage.

Section 8: Tail Installation

 Step 8

Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering
1/16” (1.5mm) inside the lines drawn on the stabilizer.

Important: DO NOT cut into the stabilizer.
Use very light pressure to trim the
covering. You can also use a hot knife or
soldering iron to remove the covering.

  Step 10

Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill a hole in the center of
each hinge slot in one of the elevators. Drill holes in the
corresponding hinge slots for the stabilizer.

  Step 11

Place a T-pin in the center of three hinges.

 Step 9

Mix up 1/2 Oz. (15ML) of 30-minute epoxy. Apply the
epoxy to the stabilizer saddle, the bare wood on the
stabilizer, and onto the fin where it fits into the fuselage.
Check the alignment of the stabilizer often to make sure it
remains in position while the epoxy cures.

Note: Clean up any excess epoxy using
a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Hint: Once the epoxy has fully cured, you
can take the wings off your Sopwith to make
it easier to work on in your work area.

33

Section 8: Tail Installation

  Step 12

Slide the hinges into the slots in the elevator.

  Step 13

Slide the elevator into position on the stabilizer. Make
sure the colors match up, and that the end of the elevator
aligns with the stabilizer.

  Step 14

Remove the T-pins from the hinges. Apply thin CA to
each of the hinges, both top and bottom.

Note: DO NOT use accelerator when gluing
the hinges. The CA
soak into the hinge to provide the best bond
between the hinge and control surface.

MUST be given time to

  Step 15

Pull on the elevator and stabilizer to check that the hinges
are glued securely. Use care not to use too much pressure
and damage your aircraft.

34

Section 8: Tail Installation

  Step 16

Once the CA has fully cured, flex the elevator up and down
a few times to break in the hinges.

 Step 17

Repeat Steps 10 through 16 for the remaining elevator
hinges and for the rudder hinges.

35

Section 9: Radio Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly • Pilot figure

1

• 22

/2" (570mm) threaded pushrod

3

• 22

/4" (578mm) “Y” threaded pushrod

• Nylon clevis w/retainer (3)

• Pushrod connector (2)

• Control horn w/backplate (3)

• 2mm x 12mm machine screw (9)

• Brass pushrod connector

• Connector backplate

• 3mm x 6mm machine screw

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Standard servo w/hardware (3)

• Receiver • Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo

• Receiver battery • Switch harness

• Phillips screwdriver • Hobby knife

• Felt-tipped pen • Drill

• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm),
3/32" (2.5mm)

We are finally completing the major assembly
of your Sopwith Camel. Once you have
the radio installed, you should take a nice
long break before starting on the rigging.

 Step 2

Locate the 22
slide it into the tubes installed in the fuselage. Take your
time as this can be a little tricky. This pushrod will be
used for the elevators.

3

/4" (578mm) “Y” threaded pushrod and

 Step 3

Slide a clevis retainer onto one of the clevises. Thread
the clevis about 14 turns onto one of the threaded ends
of a pushrod. Repeat this for all three of the threaded
ends of the pushrods.

 Step 1

Locate the 22
pushrod through the pre-installed tube inside the fuselage.
This will be for operating the rudder.

36

1

/2" (570mm) threaded pushrod. Slide the

Section 9: Radio Installation

  Step 4

Use a hobby knife to carefully remove the backplate from a
control horn. Attach the clevis for the rudder pushrod onto
the control horn. Position the horn so the holes for the
clevis align with the hinge line. Use a felt-tipped pen to
transfer the mounting holes onto the rudder.

  Step 6

Secure the control horn to the rudder using three 2mm x
12mm machine screws and the control horn backplate.

  Step 5

Use the marks made in the last step to drill 3/32" (2.5mm)
holes through the rudder for mounting the control horn.
Apply a drop or two of thin CA to each hole to harden the
underlying balsa.

37

Section 9: Radio Installation

 Step 7

Repeat Steps 4 through 6 for the elevator control horns.
Make sure you position the horns the same for the right
and left elevators.

  Step 8

Install the grommets and brass eyelets in the servo using
the instructions that came with your servo or radio system.
Place the rudder servo into the servo tray. Position the
servo so the servo horn aligns naturally with the rudder
pushrod. Mark the locations for the servo screws using a
felt-tipped pen.

Note: The elevators may not be aligned
once the horns are installed. Once the
servo has been installed and connected
to the pushrod, we’ll come back and
correct any alignment problems.

  Step 9

Use a drill and 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill the locations
from the previous step.

38

Section 9: Radio Installation

  Step 10

Use the hardware provided with the servo to secure its
location on the servo tray.

  Step 11

Plug the rudder servo into the receiver. Turn on the
transmitter and receiver and center the trim and rudder
stick on the transmitter. Position the rudder so it is
in line with the fin (neutral). Use a felt-tipped pen to
mark the rudder pushrod where it crosses the holes in
the servo arm.

  Step 12

Use pliers to bend the rudder pushrod at a 90-degree
angle at the mark made in the last step. Enlarge the holes
in the servo arm in the vicinity of the pushrod using a
5/32" (2mm) drill bit. Pass the pushrod through the servo
arm and use a pushrod connector to secure the pushrod
to the servo arm.

Note: Trim the excess arms from the servo
to prevent them from interfering with the
operation of the rudder and associated linkage.

 Step 13

Repeat Steps 8 though 12 for the elevator servo and
linkage. You can center either the right or left elevator half
before marking the pushrod wire as described in Step 11.

39

Section 9: Radio Installation

 Step 14

The elevator you did not choose to center in the
previous step may need to be adjusted. Simply
disconnect the clevis from the control horn and thread
the clevis in or out until both elevator halves are
positioned parallel to each other.

 Step 16

Plug the throttle servo into the receiver. Turn on the
transmitter and receiver and center the throttle stick
and trim. Check that the position of the servo arm is
as shown in the previous step. If not, remove the arm
and move it as such. This will provide an equal amount
of throw for both low and high throttle settings, making
setting up the linkage easier.

 Step 17

Remove the arm from the servo and enlarge the holes
in the arm that correspond with the linkage (and the
last step) using a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit. Slide the brass
pushrod connector into the hole and secure it using the
connector backplate.

 Step 15

Use the procedure as described in Steps 8 through 10 to
mount the throttle servo into the fuselage. Make sure the
servo arm won’t interfere with the operation of the rudder
or elevator linkages when positioning the throttle servo.

 Step 18

Slide the throttle pushrod into the brass pushrod
connector and place the arm onto the servo. With the
radio on, move the throttle stick to full throttle. Move the
throttle linkage to open the carburetor. Use a 3mm x 6mm
machine screw to secure the linkage.

40

Section 9: Radio Installation

 Step 19

Use the transmitter to check that the carburetor moves
through its full range of motion. If it binds at either low
or high throttle, move the linkage toward the center of
the servo arm, or away from the center at the throttle
arm. If it doesn’t make it fully closed or open, move
the linkage away from the center of the servo arm, or
toward the center of the throttle arm. It may take some
time to get things in the right position, but it is well
worth it at the field.

 Step 20

Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in foam to protect
them from vibration.

 Step 22

Plug the switch harness into the receiver and receiver
battery. Secure the switch in the pre-cut opening in the
side of the fuselage. Route the antenna wire from the
receiver to the tail of the plane.

Note: Do not cut the antenna wire.
Doing so will reduce the range of
your particular radio system.

 Step 21

Place the receiver and receiver battery into the fuselage.
Secure their position using straps or by gluing braces
inside the fuselage.

 Step 23

Secure the pilot to the hatch using Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo.

41

Section 10: Rigging Installation

Required Parts

• Complete airframe • Brass adjusters (16)

• 2-56 nut (6) • Cable crimp (32)

• Brass fitting (equal hole size) (18)

• Brass fitting (unequal hole size) (14)

• 2-56 x 5/8" machine screw (4)

• 2-56 x 3/8" machine screw (2)

• Cable end (right-hand thread) (16)

• Cable end (left-hand thread (16)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hobby knife • Plies or crimping tool

• Side cutters

The last thing to do is to install the rigging.
Although this is one section, it can be
classified as two independent rigging
procedures: rigging the tail and rigging the
wings. You
the tail or it could possibly fail in flight. The
rigging for the wing is not necessary, but
adds to the scale realism of your Sopwith.

MUST install the rigging on

Note: There are two types of brass fittings.

One has holes that are equal size which
are used primarily on the tail. The other
fittings have holes of unequal size and
are used when rigging the wings.

Hint: Make a slight bend in each of the
brass fittings before installing them.

 Step 2

Install the two brass fittings on the bottom of the fuselage
as shown.

 Step 1

Attach the brass fittings to the stabilizer using 2-56 x
5/8" screws and 2-56 nuts. Use the 2-56 x 3/8" machine
screws to attach the fittings to the fin. Fittings are placed
on both sides of the fin and the top and bottom of the
stabilizer. Leave the screws slightly loose so the position
of the fitting can be fine-tuned.

 Step 3

Slide a clevis retainer onto a clevis. Thread a cable end
into the clevis. Prepare four of these connectors.

42

Section 10: Rigging Installation

  Step 4

Cut the cable into four 7" (172mm) pieces. Prepare one
cable by sliding the cable through a crimp, through the
cable end, then back through the crimp. Pull the excess
cable tight and use a crimping tool to complete the job.
Repeat for four of the ends.

  Step 6

Repeat Step 4, only passing the cable through the brass
fittings instead of the cable ends. The cables should have
very light tension.

 Step 7

Repeat Steps 3 through 6 for the cables on the bottom of
the stabilizer.

  Step 5

Attach the four connectors to the brass fittings
on the top of the stabilizer.

 Step 8

Locate eight of the brass fittings with unequal size holes.
Attach the fittings under the strut fittings as shown.

43

Section 10: Rigging Installation

  Step 9

Install the wings onto the fuselage. When installing the
top wing, place four brass fittings with unequal size holes
under the cabane struts.

  Step 10

Install the shorter rigging between the cabane struts and
the bottom wing. Leave the tension loose on the cables.

  Step 11

Attach the longer rigging to the rear fitting at the top
wing strut. Guide the cable through the hole in the top
of the bottom wing and out the hole in the bottom of the
bottom wing.

44

Note: This cable will pass between
the cables installed in Step 10.

  Step 12

Attach the brass fitting with equal size holes so the cable
will pass through the holes in the top and bottom of the
bottom wing. Use a #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screw to secure
the fitting to the bottom of the fuselage.

Section 10: Rigging Installation

 Step 15

Repeat Steps 9 through 14 for the rigging on the other
side of the fuselage.

  Step 13

Attach a fitting right behind the landing gear. Use a
#2 x 3/8" sheet metal screw to secure the fitting.

  Step 14

Install the longer rigging between the fuselage and the top
wing. Again, leave the tension off the rigging at this time.

 Step 16

Now you can go back and apply tension to the rigging
for the tail and wings. The rigging must have VERY
LIGHT tension. Applying too much tension can place
unwanted loads on the airframe and even pull the tail
or wing out of alignment.

45

Section 11: Center of Gravity (CG)

Required Parts

• Complete airframe • Weight box

• 8-32 x 5/8" machine screw (3)

•#8 washer

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Felt-tipped pen • Phillips screwdriver

An important part of preparing the
aircraft for flight is properly balancing
the model. This is especially important
when various engines are mounted.

Caution: Do not inadvertently
skip this step!

Note: Because we felt it is most important

to preserve accurate scale lines of the
Sopwith Camel, the nose is very short,
just like the full-scale airplane. Because
of this, nose weight will be needed to
balance the model. This is not a problem,
and the extra weight has been taken into
consideration in the design of the model.

 Step 1

The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for the
Sopwith Camel is 4" (102mm) behind the leading edge of
the top wing near the cabane struts. Use a felt-tipped pen
to mark the location of the Center of Gravity on the bottom
of the top wing.

 Step 2

Install the hatch before checking the Center of Gravity.

 Step 3

Make sure the aircraft is upright when measuring the CG.
Place the airplane on a stand or place you fingers on the
marks from the last step and lift the aircraft up. It should
rest level or slightly nose down for the correct center of
gravity. If necessary, move the battery pack or add weight
to either the nose or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your local
hobby store and work well for this purpose.

 Step 4

A weight box has been provided in case a large amount
of weight is required in the front of the aircraft to achieve
the correct center of gravity. The weight box is attached to
the front of the aircraft using three 8-32 x 5/8" machine
screws and three #8 washers. Use threadlock to prevent
the screws from vibrating loose.

46

Note: Hatch is not shown to allow for detail.

Control Throws

The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely
as possible using mechanical means, rather than making
large changes electronically at the radio. By moving
the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the
outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control
throw of the control surface. Moving it toward the control
surface will increase the amount of throw. Moving the
pushrod wire at the servo arm will have the opposite
effect: Moving it closer to center will decrease throw,
and away from center will increase throw. Work with a
combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.

Aileron 1" (25mm) up 1" (25mm) down

Note: Aileron throw is measured at the
inboard trailing edge of the aileron.

Elevator 1 1/8" (28mm) up 7/8" (22mm) down

1

Rudder 1

/4" (32mm) right 1 1/4" (32mm) left

Note: Rudder throw is measured
at the center of the rudder.

Once the control throws have been set, slide the clevis
retainers over each clevis to prevent them from opening
during flight.

Note: Elevator throw is measured at the
inboard trailing edge of the elevator.

47

Adjusting the Engine

 Step 1

Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break in procedure.

 Step 2

At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at
full throttle and adjust the idle and low-speed needle so
that a consistent idle is achieved.

Pre-Flight

Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your
airplane. Use the recommended charger supplied with
your particular radio system, following the instructions
provided with the radio. In most cases, the radio should
be charged the night before going out flying.

Check the radio installation and make sure all the
control surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct
direction and with the recommended throws). Test
run the engine and make sure it transitions smoothly
from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure the
engine is tuned according to the manufacturer’s
instructions, and it will run consistently and constantly
at full throttle when adjusted.

 Step 3

Before you fly, be sure that your engine idles reliably,
transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only
when this is achieved should any plane be considered
ready for flight.

Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to
make sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace
any items that would be considered questionable. Failure
of any of these components in flight would mean the loss
of your aircraft.

Range Test Your Radio

Range check your radio system before each flying
session. This is accomplished by turning on your
transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio
in your airplane. With your airplane on the ground, you
should be able to walk 30 paces away from your airplane
and still have complete control of all functions. If not,
don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked
out by the manufacturer.

48

Notes

49

2006 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until
it has been proven to be airworthy by having been
previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying
the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid
flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where
necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise
flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/
or dangerous manner.

4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55
pounds, except models flown under Experimental
Aircraft rules.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model. (This does not apply to models while being
flown indoors.)

6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed
propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which gases
other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely
hazardous fuels such as those containing
tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets,
explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke
bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled
balloons), or ground mounted devices launching a
projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets
flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry
Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per
JATO use); also those items authorized for Air Show
Team use as defined by AST Advisory Committee
(document available from AMA HQ). In any case,
models using rocket motors as a primary means of
propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3
pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is
defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able
to carry a human being.)

8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to,
nor during, participation in any model operations.

9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed
on the flight line as a pilot or while receiving
flight instruction.

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must
be established in front of which all flying takes place
with the other side for spectators. Only personnel
involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in
the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the
flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)

50

2006 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more
are considered safe from site-to site interference,
even when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference
test reports shall be signed by the parties involved
and provided to AMA Headquarters. Documents of
agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and
individual AMA members not associated with AMA
Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA members.

6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic
inch of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine
= 200 feet.); electric motors will be based on
equivalent combustion engine size. Additional safety
requirements will be per the RC Combat section of the
current Competition Regulations.

7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a
single straight line must be established, one side of
which is for flying, with the other side for spectators.

8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in flight.

Organized RC Racing Event

10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete
in flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.

A. In every organized racing event in which
contestants, callers and officials are on the course:

1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly
wear helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or
NOCSAE approved or comparable standard while on
the racecourse.

2. All officials will be off the course except for the
starter and their assistant.

3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond
the pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.

B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized
racing event which does not comply with paragraph A
above or which allows models over 20 pounds unless
that competition event is AMA sanctioned.

C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator
(line) will be in accordance with the current
Competition Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing
section for the specific event pending two or three
pylon course layout.

11) RC night flying is limited to low-performance
models (less than 100 mph). The models must be
equipped with a lighting system that clearly defines
the aircraft’s position in the air at all times.

51

8792.1

®

© 2006 Horizon Hobby, Inc.

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

[phone]

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