Radio and Power Systems Requirements
Contents of Kit
Required Items for Electric Installation
Field Equipment Required
Optional Field Equipment
Required Tools and Adhesives
Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Safety Precautions
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Questions or Assistance
Inspection or Repairs
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
Non-Warranty Repairs
Warranty Information
Before Starting Assembly
Using the Manual
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Range Test Your Radio
Adjusting the Engine (Glow)
Maintaining Your Pulse XT ARF
Glossary of Terms
2006 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code
A. Fuselage HAN4101
B. Wing w/o Aluminum Tube HAN4102
C. Tail Set HAN4104
D. Canopy HAN4108
E. Landing Gear HAN4107
F. Painted Cowl HAN4105
G. Painted Wheel Pants HAN4106
Items not shown
Pushrod Set HAN4109
Decal Set HAN4112
Aluminum Wing Tube HAN4103
Wing Bolt Set HAN4110
EP Motor Mount HAN4111
Radio and Power Systems Requirements
• 4-channel radio system (minimum) w/receiver
• 537 Standard Servo (JRPS537) (5) or equivalent
(4 required when building the electric version)
• 9” Servo Lead Extension (JRPA097) (2)
• 6” Y-Harness (JSP98020)
Recommended JR® Systems
• XP9303
• XP6102
• XP662
• XF631
• XF421EX
Recommended Power Systems
• .40–.48 2-stroke
• .40–.82 4-stroke
• Power 46 Brushless Outrunner
Evolution .46NT
EVOE0460
JR XP9303
Saito .82 AAC
SAIE082A
JR XP6102
Power 46 Brushless
Outrunner Motor,670KV
EFLM4046A
3
Required Items for Electric Installation
• Female Deans connector w/wire • Male Deans connector (3)
• Soldering iron • Solder
• Phoenix-60 Speed Control (CSEPHX60) • Electric Propeller,13 x 6.5E (APC13065E)
• Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue • CA remover/debonder
• Pacer Z-42 Threadlock
Other Required Items
• Epoxy brushes • Felt-tipped pen or pencil
• Mixing sticks for epoxy • Paper towels
• Petroleum jelly • Rubbing alcohol
• Sandpaper • String
• T-pins
4
Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Pursuant to this Limited Warranty, Horizon Hobby, Inc. will, at its option, (i) repair or (ii) replace, any product determined
by Horizon Hobby, Inc. to be defective. In the event of a defect, these are your exclusive remedies.
This warranty does not cover cosmetic damage or damage due to acts of God, accident, misuse, abuse, negligence,
commercial use, or modification of or to any part of the product. This warranty does not cover damage due to improper
installation, operation, maintenance, or attempted repair by anyone other than an authorized Horizon Hobby, Inc. service
center. This warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is not transferable. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased product and will not cover consequential, incidental or collateral
damage. Horizon Hobby, Inc. reserves the right to inspect any and all equipment involved in a warranty claim. Repair
or replacement decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER.
HORIZON HOBBY, INC. SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
As Horizon Hobby, Inc. has no control over use, setup, final assembly, modification or misuse, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury. By the act of use, setup or assembly, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If you as the purchaser or user are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, you are
advised to return this product immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Safety Precautions
This is a sophisticated hobby product and not a toy. It must be operated with caution and common sense and requires
some basic mechanical ability. Failure to operate this product in a safe and responsible manner could result in injury or
damage to the product or other property. This product is not intended for use by children without direct adult supervision.
The product manual contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance. It is essential to read and follow all
the instructions and warnings in the manual, prior to assembly, setup or use, in order to operate correctly and avoid
damage or injury.
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Your local hobby store and/or place of purchase cannot provide warranty support or repair. Once assembly, setup or use
of the product has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly. This will enable Horizon to better answer
your questions and service you in the event that you may need any assistance.
Questions or Assistance
For questions or assistance, please direct your email to productsupport@horizonhobby.com, or call 877.504.0233 toll
free to speak to a service technician.
5
Inspection or Repairs
If your product needs to be inspected or repaired, please call for a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA). Pack the
product securely using a shipping carton. Please note that original boxes may be included, but are not designed to
withstand the rigors of shipping without additional protection. Ship via a carrier that provides tracking and insurance for
lost or damaged parcels, as Horizon Hobby, Inc. is not responsible for merchandise until it arrives and is accepted at
our facility. Include your complete name, address, phone number where you can be reached during business days, RMA
number, and a brief summary of the problem. Be sure your name, address, and RMA number are clearly written on the
shipping carton.
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
To receive warranty service, you must include your original sales receipt verifying the proof-of-purchase date. Providing
warranty conditions have been met, your product will be repaired or replaced free of charge. Repair or replacement
decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby. Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this product to be free from defects
in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
Non-Warranty Repairs
Should your repair not be covered by warranty and the expense exceeds 50% of the retail purchase cost, you will be
provided with an estimate advising you of your options. You will be billed for any return freight for non-warranty repairs.
Please advise us of your preferred method of payment. Horizon Hobby accepts money orders and cashiers checks, as
well as Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and Discover cards. If you choose to pay by credit card, please include your
credit card number and expiration date. Any repair left unpaid or unclaimed after 90 days will be considered abandoned
and will be disposed of accordingly.
Electronics and engines requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):
Horizon Service Center
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
All other products requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):
Horizon Product Support
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
6
Warranty Information
Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without
notice. In that Horizon Hobby has no control over the final assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By
the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Once assembly of the model has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly regarding any warranty
question that you have. Please do not contact your local hobby shop regarding warranty issues, even if that is where you
purchased it. This will enable Horizon to better answer your questions and service you in the event that you may need any
assistance. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
(217) 355-9511
Before Starting Assembly
Before beginning the assembly of the Pulse XT, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the fuselage,
wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the place of purchase.
If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or sealing iron to remove them. Use caution while working around
areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.
HAN101 – Sealing Iron
HAN141 – Sealing Iron
Sock
HAN100 – Heat Gun
HAN150 – Covering Glove
Using the Manual
This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand, and to provide breaks between each
major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next to each step to keep track of each step completed. Steps
with a single box (
repeating, such as for a right or left wing panel, two servos, etc. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.
) are performed once, while steps with two boxes ( ) indicate that the step will require
7
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Required Parts
• Wing panel (right and left) • Aileron (right and left)
• Servo w/hardware (2) • Clevis w/retainer (2)
• CA hinge (8)
• Servo extension, 6" (152mm)
• Aileron linkage, 4" (102mm) (2)
• Control horn w/backplate (2)
• 2mm x 16mm screw (4)
• 2mm x 12mm screw (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • Drill
• Hobby knife • Felt-tipped pen
• T-pins • Phillips screwdriver
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm)
Step 1
Locate four CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of each
of the four hinges.
Note: The hole will allow the CA to penetrate
the hinge farther into the surface, providing
a better bond between the hinge and wood.
Step 3
Slide the hinges into the aileron. The T-pins will rest
against the hinge line of the aileron.
Step 2
Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill a hole in the center of
each hinge slot. Drill holes for both the wing and aileron.
Step 4
Slide the aileron onto the wing. Press the aileron
tightly against the wing, and then remove the T-pins
from the hinges.
8
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Step 5
Position the aileron so it can move freely and not
bind at the wing tip or wing root. Deflect the aileron
without changing the hinge gap, and apply thin CA to
each of the four hinges. Apply CA to both the top and
bottom of the hinges.
Step 7
Flex the aileron up and down a number of times to break
in the hinges.
Note: Do not use CA accelerator
on the hinges; the CA must be
allowed to soak into the hinge.
Step 6
Once the CA has fully cured, gently pull on the aileron to
make sure the hinges are secure. Avoid too much pressure
which could cause damage to the wing and aileron.
Step 8
Prepare an aileron servo by installing the grommets
and brass eyelets provided with the servo. Secure
a 6" (152mm) servo extension to the servo using a
commercially available connector or with string or
unwaxed dental floss.
9
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Step 9
Slide one of the longer pushrod wires into the wing.
Attach the servo extension to the “Z” bend of the
pushrod wire.
Step 11
Place the servo into the opening with the servo output
towards the trailing edge of the wing. Use a felt-tipped pen
to mark the locations for the four servo mounting screws.
Step 12
Remove the servo and drill the locations for the servo
mounting screws using a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit.
Apply a couple drops of thin CA to each hole to harden
the wood, which will help in preventing the screws from
damaging the wood.
Step 10
Pull the servo lead through the wing using the pushrod
wire. The lead will exit the hole on the top of the wing.
Use a piece of tape to keep the extension from falling back
into the wing.
10
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Step 13
Secure the servo using the screws provided with
the servo.
Step 14
Slide a clevis retainer onto a clevis. Thread the clevis
onto the 4" (102mm) aileron pushrod wire.
Note: You may want to use tape at the
wing tip and wing root to hold the aileron
in position for the next few steps.
Step 16
Plug the aileron servo into the radio system. With the
radio on, center the aileron stick and trim. Position the
aileron servo arm parallel to the hinge line. Thread the
clevis so the pin in the clevis is aligned with the trailing
edge of the wing.
Step 15
Enlarge the outer hole of the servo arm using a 5/64"
(2mm) drill bit. Attach the “Z” bend to the servo arm.
Step 17
Remove the backplate from a control horn using a hobby
knife. Attach the clevis to the center hole of the control
horn. Use a felt-tipped pen to mark the locations on the
aileron for the three aileron control horn screws.
11
Section 1: Aileron Installation
Step 18
Use a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit to drill the locations for the
control horn screws. Place a few drops of thin CA into
each hole to harden the underlying wood. This will help
in preventing the wood from crushing when tightening the
control horn screws.
Step 19
Attach the control horn using two 2mm x 16mm screws, a
2mm x 12mm screw and the control horn backplate. The
shorter screw goes towards the trailing edge of the aileron.
12
Step 20
Repeat Steps 1 through 19 for the remaining wing panel
and aileron.
Section 2: Hinging the Stabilizer
Required Parts
• Stabilizer
• Elevator (right and left)
• Elevator joiner wire
• Control horn w/backplate
• 2mm x 12mm screw (3)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • Drill
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm) • Straight edge
• 6-minute epoxy • Masking tape
• Sandpaper • Paper towel
• Rubbing alcohol • Mixing stick
• T-pins • Phillips screwdriver
Step 1
Locate the elevator joiner wire. Use sandpaper to roughen
the wire. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to clean
the wire to remove any dirt or debris.
Step 3
Mix up a small amount of 6-minute epoxy. Apply epoxy to
the hole and groove of the elevator. Also apply epoxy to
the joiner wire where it will contact the elevator half. Slide
the joiner wire into position and use masking tape to hold
it in position until the epoxy cures.
Step 2
Test fit the joiner wire into one of the elevator halves.
The wire must rest parallel or behind the hinge line
of the elevator. Make any adjustments to the elevator
to correct any offset.
Step 4
Test fit the remaining elevator to the joiner wire.
There are two items to check: Make sure both elevators
rest flat on the work surface, and that the leading edge
of both elevators are parallel. Make adjustments to the
elevator and/or joiner wire to properly align the two
elevator halves.
Step 5
Use epoxy to glue the joiner into the remaining
elevator half.
13
Section 2: Hinging the Stabilizer
Step 6
Drill a 1/16" (1.5mm) hole in the center of each hinge slot
in both the elevators and stabilizer. Prepare six CA hinges
by placing a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide the
hinges into the elevators until the T-pins are resting on the
leading edge of the elevator.
Step 8
Since the holes are pre-drilled in the elevator, go
ahead and install the control horn using three
2mm x 12mm screws.
Step 7
Slide the elevators onto the stabilizer. Remove the T-pins
and use thin CA to glue the hinges. Allow the CA to fully
cure before testing and breaking in the hinges using the
same technique as the aileron hinges.
14
Section 3: Hinging the Rudder
Required Parts
• Rudder • Fin
• Tail wheel assembly • Tail wheel 1" (25mm)
• CA hinge (2)
• 2mm wheel collar w/setscrew
• Control horn w/backplate
• 2mm x 12mm screw (3)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • Drill
• Hobby knife • Felt-tipped pen
• 6-minute epoxy • Ruler
• Sandpaper • Paper towel
• Rubbing alcohol • Mixing stick
• T-pin • Hex wrench: 1.5mm
• Phillips screwdriver • Threadlock
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm)
Step 1
Locate the tail wheel assembly. Fit the nylon bushing into
the rudder post. Use a felt-tipped pen to mark the nylon
bearing where it protrudes from the rudder post.
Step 2
Use a hobby knife or side cutters to trim the nylon bearing
as shown. Drill three 5/64" (2mm) holes in the bearing to
give the epoxy something to grab on to when it gets glued
into the rudder post.
Step 3
Apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly to the wire and work
it onto the nylon bearing. This will help prevent the epoxy
from gluing the wire to the bearing.
Step 4
Use a small amount of 6-minute epoxy to glue the bearing
into the rudder post.
Step 5
Prepare the hinge slots in the rudder and fin by drilling
a 1/16" (1.5mm) hole in the center of each slot. Prepare
the last two CA hinges by placing a T-pin in the center
of each one.
15
Section 3: Hinging the Rudder
Step 6
Test fit the rudder and fin together. Make sure to insert the
tail gear wire into the rudder. When satisfied with the fit,
mix up a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and apply it to
the tail gear wire and the corresponding hole in the rudder.
Slide the rudder back into position against the fin.
Step 8
Attach the tail wheel using the 2mm wheel collar
and setscrew. Use threadlock on the setscrew to prevent it
from coming loose in flight due to vibration.
Step 7
Position the rudder control horn 5/8" (16mm) up from the
bottom of the rudder. With the holes in the horn aligned
with the hinge line, mark the locations for the control horn
screws. Drill the locations using a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit.
After placing a few drops of thin CA into each hole, secure
the control horn using three 2mm x 12mm screws.
Note: The horn will be on the right side
of the plane from the pilot’s perspective.
16
Section 4: Landing Gear Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Landing gear
• 4mm nut (6) • 4mm locknut (2)
• 6-32 x 1/2" socket head screw (3)
• 4-40 blind nut (4) • #6 washer (3)
3
• 2
/4" (70mm) wheel (2)
• Wheel pant (right and left)
• 4-40 x 3/8" socket head bolt (4)
• 4mm x 40mm socket head bolt (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hex wrench: 3/32", 7/64" • Drill
• Drill bit: 9/64" (3.5mm) • Threadlock
• Felt-tipped pen
Step 1
Attach the landing gear to the bottom of the fuselage using
three 6-32 x 1/2" socket head bolts and three #6 washers.
Put a little threadlock on the bolts to prevent them from
vibrating loose during flight.
Step 2
Slide a 4mm x 40mm socket head bolt into a wheel. Slide
a 4mm washer onto the bolt then thread a 4mm nut onto
the bolt. Leave the bolt loose enough that the wheel can
spin freely on the bolt. Use a drop of thin CA or threadlock
to keep the nut in position.
Step 3
Thread a second 4mm nut onto the bolt. Slide the bolt into
the landing gear. Place a second 4mm washer onto the
bolt, then start the 4mm locknut onto the bolt. The order
is: wheel, 4mm nut, 4mm washer, 4mm nut, landing gear,
4mm washer and 4mm locknut.
17
Section 4: Landing Gear Installation
Step 4
Position the inner 4mm nut so there is about 7/16"
(12mm) between the wheel nut and landing gear.
Tighten the 4mm locknut onto the screw. The
distance may require some adjustment once the
wheel pants have been installed.
Step 6
Place the wheel pant over the wheel. Position the wheel
pant so it is parallel to the fuselage centerline. Mark the
location for the two screws from the back of the wheel
pant using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 5
Repeat Steps 2 through 4 for the remaining wheel.
18
Section 4: Landing Gear Installation
Step 7
Use a 9/64" (3.5mm) drill bit to drill the two locations
for the screws.
Step 8
Install two 4-40 blind nuts inside the wheel pants through
the holes drilled in the previous step.
Step 9
Secure the wheel pant to the landing gear using two
4-40 x 3/8" socket head screws. Make sure to use
threadlock to prevent the screws from loosening
during flight.
Step 10
Check that the wheel can spin freely without rubbing on
the wheel pant. If it does, loosen the 4mm nut and 4mm
locknut and reposition the wheel so it can spin freely.
Step 11
Repeat Steps 6 through 10 to install the remaining
wheel pant.
19
Section 5: Servo Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage
3
• 23
/8" (594mm) rudder pushrod
1
• 22
/2" (572mm) elevator pushrod wire
• Clevis w/retainer
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill • Felt-tipped pen
• Switch harness • Standard servo (3)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm)
Note: The throttle servo is not required when
building the electric version of your Pulse XT.
Step 1
If you choose to use a glow engine, place the throttle
servo into the fuselage. Use a felt-tipped pen to mark
the locations for the four servo mounting screws on
the radio tray.
Step 2
Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill the locations for the
screws. Place a drop of thin CA into each of the holes to
harden the surrounding wood.
Step 3
Secure the throttle servo using the hardware supplied with
the servo. Don’t forget to install the grommets and brass
eyelets before installing the servo.
20
Section 5: Servo Installation
Step 4
Repeat Steps 1 through 3 to install the rudder and
elevator servos.
Step 5
Install the switch harness on the side of the fuselage using
the switch harness hardware.
Step 7
Plug the servos, extensions and switch harness into the
receiver. Plug the receiver battery and switch harness
together. Place the receiver and receiver battery into the
fuselage.
Step 8
Step 6
Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in 1/4" (6mm)
foam to protect them from engine vibrations.
Route the receiver antenna to the rear of the fuselage
using the pre-installed antenna tube.
Note: Do not cut the excess antenna wire as
it will reduce the range of your radio system.
21
Section 5: Servo Installation
Step 9
Attach the 23
arm using the “Z” bend in the pushrod. You may need to
use a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit to enlarge the hole in the servo
arm to accept the wire.
3
/8" (594mm) rudder pushrod to the servo
Step 10
Turn the radio system on and center the rudder stick and
rudder trim. Slide the pushrod wire into the pushrod
tube. Secure the servo arm to the servo using the screw
included with the servo.
Step 11
Slide a clevis retainer onto a clevis. Thread the clevis onto
the rudder pushrod.
Step 12
Repeat Steps 9 through 11 for the 22
elevator pushrod wire.
1
/2" (572mm)
22
Section 6A: Tail Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Rudder assembly
• Stabilizer assembly • 4-40 locknut (2)
• #4 washer
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Adjustable wrench
Step 1
Carefully slide the threaded rods from the rudder
assembly into the stabilizer assembly.
Step 3
Secure the tail assembly to the fuselage using two 4-40
locknuts and two #4 washers.
Note: Do not over-tighten the
nuts and crush the fuselage.
Step 4
Connect the rudder clevis to the rudder control horn. With
the radio system on, check that the rudder is centered. If
not, either thread the clevis on or off the pushrod until the
rudder is centered.
Step 2
Slide the tail assembly into position on the fuselage.
23
Section 6A: Tail Installation
Step 5
Repeat Step 4 for the elevator.
24
Section 6B: Gluing the Tail (Optional)
Required Parts
• Fuselage w/tail installed
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Adjustable wrench • Felt-tipped pen
• Hobby knife • 30-minute epoxy
• Straight edge
This section is optional and describes how
to permanently glue the tail section to the
fuselage. If you do not want to glue the
tail to the fuselage, feel free to continue
to Section 7: Engine Installation.
Step 1
Use a felt-tipped pen to trace the outline of the fuselage
onto the bottom of the stabilizer. Also trace the outline of
the fin fairing onto the top of the stabilizer using a felttipped pen.
Step 2
Remove the tail from the fuselage. Use a straight
edge and hobby knife to trim the covering about
1/16" (1.5mm) inside the lines drawn on the top and
bottom of the stabilizer.
Note: Be very careful when cutting the
covering. Using too much pressure
can through the covering and into
the stabilizer. Doing so will score the
stabilizer and it may fail in flight.
Hint: Use a soldering iron or hot knife to
trim the covering on the stabilizer. This will
lower the chances of scoring the stabilizer.
Step 3
Mix about 1/2 oz (15ml) of 30-minute epoxy. Apply the
epoxy to the exposed wood on both the top and bottom
of the stabilizer. Install the tail back onto the fuselage as
described in Section 6. Use a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol to remove any excess epoxy before it has a
chance to cure.
25
Section 7A: Electric Motor Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Plywood battery tray
• Hook and loop strap • Cowling
• 4-40 x 3/8" socket head screw (2)
• 6-32 x 1
7
/8" screw (4)
• 1" (25mm) aluminum motor spacer (4)
• Hook and loop (adhesive back)
• #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Phillips screwdriver • Threadlock
• Hex wrench: 3/32" • Drill
• Male Deans connector (3) • Soldering iron
• Drill bit: 9/64" (3.5mm)
• Female Deans connector w/wire
• Solder
• 4200mAh 2S2P 7.4V Li-Po (2)
Step 1
Enlarge the outer mounting holes in the X-mount of the
motor using a 9/64" (3.5mm) drill.
Step 2
Attach the X-mount to the back of the motor using the
hardware provided with the motor. Remember to put a
drop of threadlock on each of the screws to prevent them
from vibrating loose.
Step 3
Attach the motor to the firewall using the 1" (25mm)
spacers and 6-32 x 1
screws here as well.
7
/8" screws. Use threadlock on the
26
Section 7A: Electric Motor Installation
Step 4
Build a wiring harness for the batteries using a female
connector and two male connectors. Follow the wiring in
the photo so the motor sees the voltage increase of the
two batteries.
Step 5
Solder the appropriate connectors onto the speed control.
Step 7
Prepare the battery tray by applying two pieces of self
adhesive hook and loop to the battery tray. Start the hook
and loop directly behind the holes in the tray.
Step 8
Position the hook and loop strap into the fuselage. Route
the strap through the fuselage bracing as shown.
Step 6
Remove the covering from the bottom of the fuselage
as shown to allow for cooling air across the motor
and batteries.
27
Section 7A: Electric Motor Installation
Step 9
Remove the hatch from the bottom of the fuselage. Slide
the battery tray into the fuselage with the hook and loop
facing towards the bottom. The rear of the battery tray
will key into the former. Use two 4-40 x 3/8" socket head
screws to secure the front of the battery tray.
Step 11
Turn on the radio system. Plug the wiring harness
assembled in Step 4 into the batteries and speed control.
Use the throttle on the transmitter to check that everything
is working correctly. Check that the motor is rotating
counterclockwise. If not, follow the directions included
with the speed control to correct the situation.
Step 12
Once the motor is working and rotating in the correct
direction, unplug the wiring harness for safety. Snap the
battery hatch back onto the fuselage.
Step 10
Plug the motor into the speed control. Place the mating
half of the self adhesive hook and loop onto each of the
batteries. Secure the batteries using the hook and loop
strap. Plug the speed control into the receiver. Mount the
speed control inside the fuselage so it will not interfere
with the installation and removal of the batteries.
Step 13
Trim the cowling as necessary to fit over the motor. The
cowl is mounted using four #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.
Install the propeller and spinner using the instructions
included with your particular motor.
28
Section 7B: Glow Engine Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Engine mount (2)
• Cowling • Fuel tank
• 6-32 locknut (4) • #6 washer (4)
• Clevis w/retainer • Throttle pushrod
• 3mm x 6mm screw • Thick foam
• 6-32 x 3/4" screw (4)
• 6-32 x 1
• Pushrod connector w/backplate
• #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw (4)
• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill • Phillips screwdriver
• Drill bit: 5/64" (2mm), 5/32" (4mm)
1
/4" screw (4)
Step 1
Mount the engine mount onto the firewall using four
6-32 x 3/4" screws.
Step 2
Position the engine on the engine mount so the drive
washer is 4" (102mm) ahead of the firewall.
Step 3
Mark the location of the engine mounting bolts using
a felt-tipped pen. Drill the engine mount using a 5/32"
(4mm) drill bit.
29
Section 7B: Two-Stroke Engine Installation
Step 4
Mount the engine to the mount using four 6-32 x 1
screws, four #6 washers and four 6-32 locknuts.
1
/4"
Step 5
Slide a clevis retainer onto a clevis, and then thread the
clevis onto the throttle pushrod. Slide the pushrod into the
pushrod tube and attach the clevis to the carburetor arm.
Step 7
Turn on the radio system and center the throttle stick and
trim. Slide the pushrod into the brass connector. Place the
servo horn onto the servo so the horn is perpendicular to
the servo centerline.
Step 8
Use the radio to move the throttle to the low setting
using the stick and trim. Move the pushrod so the
carburetor is closed. Secure the pushrod wire using a
3mm x 5mm screw.
Step 6
Attach the pushrod connector to the throttle servo arm
using the connector backplate. You will need to enlarge
the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit.
30
Step 9
Check that the throttle operates from the radio without
binding at low and high throttle. Use the ATV setting
of the radio or change the position of the clevis at the
carburetor or the pushrod connector at the servo to
eliminate any binding.
Section 7B: Two-Stroke Engine Installation
Step 10
Locate the fuel tank. Hold the tank up to a strong light to
determine which direction the vent line is facing. This will
be the top of the tank. The red tube is attached to the vent
line of the tank. Place the tank inside the fuselage with the
vent towards the top of the fuselage.
Step 11
Step 12
Place the fuselage hatch into position and secure it using
the 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw.
Step 13
Trim the cowling as necessary to fit over the motor. The
cowl is mounted using four #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.
Install the propeller and spinner using the instructions
included with your particular motor.
Place the thick piece of foam into the fuselage to hold the
tank in position
Note: Remember the plane is upside
down right now, so the vent will be
facing down during installation.
31
Section 8: Final Assembly
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Wing
• Wing bolt plate • Wing tube
• 1/4-20 x 1
7
• 1
/8" (48mm) wing dowel (2)
5
• 1
/16" (33mm) wing dowel
1
/2" nylon bolt (2)
• 2mm x 8mm sheet metal screw (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • Phillips screwdriver
Step 1
Cut the instrument panel decal from the decal sheet.
Apply the decal in position for the instrument panel
in the cockpit.
Step 3
Apply any remaining decals onto the aircraft using either
the box for location or your imagination.
Step 4
Slide the 1
panels. Leave 3/8" (10mm) of the dowel extended out
from the leading edge of the wing. Apply thin CA to the
dowel at the leading edge. You will also see a small
portion of the dowel exposed inside the wing. Apply thin
CA to the dowel inside the wing as well.
7
/8" (48mm) wing dowel into one of the wing
Step 2
Use four 2mm x 18mm screws to secure the canopy onto
the fuselage. Make sure the rear screws are going into
solid wood before installing them.
Step 5
Slide the wing tube and the 1
into one of the wing panels.
5
/16" (33mm) wing dowel
32
Section 8: Final Assembly
Step 6
Slide the remaining wing panel onto the wing tube
aligning the dowel into the panel.
Step 7
Slide the 1/4-20 x 1
bolt plate. Position the wing dowels into the holes in the
fuselage. Slide the bolts through the wing and tighten
them to secure the wing to the fuselage.
1
/2" wing bolts through the wing
33
Control Throws
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely
as possible using mechanical means, rather than making
large changes electronically at the radio. By moving
the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the
outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control
throw of the control surface. Moving it toward the control
surface will increase the amount of throw. Moving the
pushrod wire at the servo arm will have the opposite
effect: Moving it closer to center will decrease throw,
and away from center will increase throw. Work with a
combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
Aileron
Low Rate Up Down
11/32" (9mm) 11/32" (9mm)
High Rate
1/2" (13mm) 1/2" (13mm)
Elevator
Low Rate Up Down
1/2" (13mm) 1/2" (13mm)
High Rate
7/8" (22mm) 7/8" (22mm)
Rudder
3/4" (19mm) Left
3/4" (19mm) Right
The rudder throw is measured at the counter
balance using the top of the fin as a reference.
Once the control throws have been set, use the supplied
tubing on each clevis to prevent them from opening
during flight.
Measured at the trailing edge of the elevator.
34
Recommended Center of Gravity (CG)
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is
properly balancing the model. This is especially important
when various engines are mounted.
Caution: Do not inadvertently
skip this step!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for
the Pulse XT is 2
of the wing against the fuselage. Make sure the aircraft
is inverted when measuring the CG. If necessary, move
the battery pack or add weight to either the nose or the
tail until the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on
weights are available at your local hobby store and
work well for this purpose.
Note: The range for the center of gravity
1
is 2
3
/4" (70mm) behind the leading edge
/2" (63mm) to 3" (76mm).
Pre-Flight
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your
airplane. If you are flying an electric version, make sure
to charge the motor battery as well. Use the recommended
charger supplied with your particular radio system,
following the instructions provided with the radio. In
most cases, the radio should be charged the night before
going out flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction
and with the recommended throws).
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to
make sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace
any items that would be considered questionable. Failure
of any of these components in flight would mean the loss
of your aircraft.
Glow Powered:
Test run the engine and make sure it transitions smoothly
from idle to full throttle and back. Also ensure the engine
is tuned according to the manufacturer’s instructions,
and it will run consistently and constantly at full throttle
when adjusted.
Electric Powered:
Make sure the motor battery has been fully charged and
is secure inside the fuselage. Operate the motor and make
sure it operates smoothly from low throttle to full throttle
and back.
Range Test Your Radio
Range check your radio system before each flying
session. This is accomplished by turning on your
transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the
radio in your airplane. With your airplane on the ground,
you should be able to walk 30 paces away from your
airplane and still have complete control of all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment
checked out by the manufacturer.
35
Adjusting the Engine (Glow)
Step 1
Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break in procedure.
Step 2
At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at
full throttle and adjust the idle and low-speed needle so
that a consistent idle is achieved.
Step 3
Before you fly, be sure that your engine idles reliably,
transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only when
this is achieved should any plane be considered ready for
flight.
Maintaining Your Pulse XT ARF
The following is a check list that you should follow
every time you have completed a flying session with
your Pulse XT. Doing so will keep your aircraft
in the best flying condition.
Clean Up
If you are flying with a glow engine you will want to clean
your Pulse XT before loading it into your vehicle to head
home. Use a cleaner such as Windex or 409 and a paper
towel to wipe down the exterior of your plane, removing
the fuel residue. Remember a clean plane will last longer
since the fuel won’t be allowed to soak into any exposed
wood. Even an electic may need a little cleaning to remove
any grass or bugs from the airframe.
Checking the Propeller
Check to make sure the propeller is tightly secured to
the engine. If not, remove the spinner and use a crescent
wrench to tighten it back down. If you have had any notso-great landings, you will want to inspect the propeller
for any damage. Small nicks and scratches can quickly
become fractures, causing the propeller to be unsafe for
flight. Always carry a few spare propellers so a damaged
propeller can be replaced at the field, increasing your
flying time per trip to the field.
Checking the Clevises
Inspect the aileron, elevator and rudder clevises to make
sure they are connected and in good working order. If
you find a clevis that is showing signs of wear or is
broken, replace it with a new clevis. Also check the nylon
connectors at the servo for any wear or damage. If they
look worn or in bad shape, replace them as well.
Checking the Control Horns
Inspect the control horns to make sure they have not
crushed the wood of the control surface. If so, remove the
control horn screws to remove the control horn. Place 2–3
drops of thin CA into each of the screw holes. In addition,
use a T-pin to poke small holes in the covering in the area
where the control horn mounts, then saturate the area with
thin CA. This will harden the wood and give the control
horns a solid surface to be mounted to.
Checking the Wheel Collars
Check the setscrews on the main and tail wheel wheel
collars to make sure they are not loose. Use a 1.5mm
hex wrench to tighten the setscrews. It is suggested if
they loosen frequently to remove them, apply threadlock
to the setscrews, then secure the wheel collars back
into position.
Check the Muffler Bolts
If you are flying with a glow engine, use a 2.5mm hex
wrench to make sure the bolts holding the muffler onto the
engine are tight and have not vibrated loose during flight.
Check the Engine or Motor Mount Bolts
Remove the spinner and propeller from the engine (or
motor) and then remove the cowling from the fuselage.
Remove the muffler from the engine (if using a glow
engine). Use a Phillips screwdriver and adjustable
wrench to make sure the four bolts securing the engine
to the mount are tight. Use a Phillips screwdriver to
check that the bolts holding the mount to the firewall
are tight as well.
36
Glossary of Terms
• Ailerons: Each side of this airplane has a hinged
control surface (aileron), located on the trailing edge of
the wing. Move the aileron stick on the transmitter left,
the left aileron moves up and the right aileron moves
down. Moving the left aileron up causes more drag and
less lift, causing the left wing to drop down. When the
right aileron moves down, more lift is created, causing
the right wing to rise. This interaction causes the
airplane to turn or roll to the left. Perform the opposite
actions, and the airplane will roll to the right..
•
Clevis: The clevis connects the wire end of the pushrod
to the control horn of the control surface. A small clip,
the clevis has fine threads so that you can adjust the
length of the pushrod.
•
Control Horn: This arm connects the control surface
to the clevis and pushrod.
•
Dihedral: The degree of angle (V-shaped bend)
at which the wings intersect the fuselage is called
dihedral. More dihedral gives an airplane more
aerodynamic stability. Some sailplanes and trainer
planes with large dihedral dispense with ailerons and
use only the rudder to control the roll and yaw.
•
Elevator: The hinged control surface on the back of the
stabilizer that moves to control the airplane’s pitch axis.
Pulling the transmitter’s control stick toward the bottom
of the transmitter moves the elevator upward, and the
airplane begins to climb. Push the control stick forward,
and the airplane begins to dive.
•
Fuselage: The main body of an airplane.
•
Pitch Axis: The horizontal plane on which the
airplane’s nose is raised or lowered. By moving the
elevator, you can raise the airplane’s nose above the
pitch axis (climb) or lower it below the pitch axis (dive).
•
Pushrod: The rigid mechanism that transfers
movement from the servo to the control surface.
•
Roll Axis: The horizontal plane on which the airplane’s
wings are raised or lowered. By adjusting the ailerons,
you can drop a wing tip below the roll axis and cause
the airplane to bank or roll.
•
Rudder: The hinged control surface on the vertical
stabilizer that controls the airplane’s yaw. Moving the
rudder to the left causes the airplane to yaw left; moving
the rudder to the right causes it to yaw right.
•
Servo: The servo transforms your transmitter
commands into physical adjustments of the airplane.
•
Servo Output Arm: A removable arm or wheel
that connects the servo to the pushrod (also called
servo horn).
•
Spinner: Term describing the nose cone that covers
the propeller hub.
•
Threadlock: A liquid that solidifies; used to prevent
screws from loosening due to vibration.
• Torque Rods: Inserted into the ailerons, these rigid
wire rods run along the wing’s trailing edge, then bend
downward and connect to the pushrod.
• Vertical Stabilizer: The vertical flying surface of the
tail gives an airplane stability while in flight.
•
Hinge: Flexible pieces used to connect the control
surface to the flying surface. All hinges must be
glued properly and securely to prevent the airplane
from crashing.
•
Horizontal Stabilizer: The horizontal flying surface of
the tail gives the airplane stability while in flight.
• Leading Edge: The front of a flying surface.
•
Main Landing Gear: The wheel and gear assembly
the airplane uses to land. It is attached to the bottom of
the fuselage.
•
Wheel Collar: The round retaining piece that anchors
wheels in place on the wheel axle.
•
Wing: The lifting surface of an airplane.
•
Yaw Axis: The vertical plane through which the
airplane’s nose rotates as it yaws to the left or to the
right. The rudder controls the yaw axis.
37
2006 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
GENERAL
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until
it has been proven to be airworthy by having been
previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying
the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid
flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where
necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise
flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/
or dangerous manner.
4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55
pounds, except models flown under Experimental
Aircraft rules.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model. (This does not apply to models while being
flown indoors.)
6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed
propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which gases
other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely
hazardous fuels such as those containing
tetranitromethane or hydrazine.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets,
explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke
bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled
balloons), or ground mounted devices launching a
projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets
flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry
Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per
JATO use); also those items authorized for Air Show
Team use as defined by AST Advisory Committee
(document available from AMA HQ). In any case,
models using rocket motors as a primary means of
propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3
pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is
defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able
to carry a human being.)
8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to,
nor during, participation in any model operations.
9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed
on the flight line as a pilot or while receiving
flight instruction.
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must
be established in front of which all flying takes place
with the other side for spectators. Only personnel
involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in
the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the
flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)
38
2006 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more
are considered safe from site-to site interference,
even when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference
test reports shall be signed by the parties involved
and provided to AMA Headquarters. Documents of
agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and
individual AMA members not associated with AMA
Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA members.
6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic
inch of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine
= 200 feet.); electric motors will be based on
equivalent combustion engine size. Additional safety
requirements will be per the RC Combat section of the
current Competition Regulations.
7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a
single straight line must be established, one side of
which is for flying, with the other side for spectators.
8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in flight.
Organized RC Racing Event
10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete
in flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.
A. In every organized racing event in which
contestants, callers and officials are on the course:
1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly
wear helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or
NOCSAE approved or comparable standard while on
the racecourse.
2. All officials will be off the course except for the
starter and their assistant.
3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond
the pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.
B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized
racing event which does not comply with paragraph A
above or which allows models over 20 pounds unless
that competition event is AMA sanctioned.
C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator
(line) will be in accordance with the current
Competition Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing
section for the specific event pending two or three
pylon course layout.
11) RC night flying is limited to low-performance
models (less than 100 mph). The models must be
equipped with a lighting system that clearly defines
the aircraft’s position in the air at all times.