A. Wing Set HAN2976
B. Fuselage HAN2977
C. Tail Set HAN2978
D. Painted Canopy HAN2981
E. Cowling HAN2979
F. Fiberglass Belly Pan HAN2985
Required Radio and Engine
Small Parts:
1
/4" Wheels HAN2385
1. 3
2. Fuel Tank HAN1987
3. Engine Mount HAN2033
4. Tailwheel Assembly HAN2980
Items Not Shown:
Plastic Wheel Wells HAN2984
P-47 Mechanical Retracts HAN2983
Decal Set HAN2987
Pushrod Set HAN2986
Cockpit Detail HAN2982
Radio Equipment
• 5-channel radio system (minimum)
• 5 standard servos (JRPS537 recommended
or equivalent)
• Low-Profile Retract Servo (JRPS791)
• 12" Servo Extension (JRPA098) (2)
• 18" Servo Extension (JRPA099) (2)
• Large Servo Arms w/Screw (JRPA212)
• Radio Switch (JRPA003)
• 900mAh receiver battery (minimum)
Recommended Engines
• .61 2-stroke
• 1.00 4-stroke
Evolution .61NT
EVOE0610
Recommended JR® Systems
• XF421EX
• XP6102
• XP662
• X-378
• XP9303
• 10X
Saito 1.00 FA-AAC
SAIE100
JR XF631
JR XP9303
3
Page 4
Additional Required Tools and Adhesives
Tools
• Hobby scissors
• Drill
• Drill bits: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 1/8", 9/64",
5/32", 1/4"
• Felt-tipped pen
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Foam: 1/4"
• Hex wrench: 9/64", 3/16"
• Hobby knife
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
• Pliers
• Sandpaper
• Socket wrench: 11/32"
• Square
• T-pins
Adhesives
• 6-Minute Epoxy (HAN8000)
• 30-Minute Epoxy (HAN8002)
• Thin CA (PAAPT07)
• Medium CA (PAAPT01)
• CA Remover/Debonder (PAAPT16)
• Masking Tape (MMM20901)
• Canopy glue (Formula 560)
Other Required Items
• Epoxy Brushes (DUB345)
• Fuel tubing
• Mixing Sticks for Epoxy (DUB346)
• Paper towels
• Rotary tool w/sanding drum
• Rubbing alcohol
• Ruler
• String
• Wax paper
Warning
An RC aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas,
preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your
radio and engine.
Covering Colors
• Black HANU870
• White HANU874
• Silver HANU881
4
Page 5
Before Starting Assembly
Before beginning the assembly of the P-47, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the
fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the place
of purchase.
If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or covering iron to remove them. Use caution while working
around areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.
HAN100 – Heat Gun
HAN150 – Covering Glove
HAN101 – Covering Iron
HAN141 – Sealing Iron
Sock
Using the Manual
This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand and to provide breaks between
each major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next to each step to keep track of them as they’re
completed. Steps with two boxes indicate that the step will require repeating, such as for a right or left wing panel,
two servos, etc. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.
Warranty Information
Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to change or modify
this warranty without notice.
In that Horizon Hobby has no control over the final assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the product,
the user accepts all resulting liability.
Once assembly of the model has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly regarding any warranty
question that you have. Please do not contact your local hobby shop regarding warranty issues, even if that is where
you purchased it. This will enable Horizon to better answer your questions and provide service in the event that you
may need any assistance.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Horizon Hobby Service Department
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
(217) 355-9511
horizonhobby.com
5
Page 6
Section 1: Joining the Wing Halves
Required Parts
• Left and right wing panels • Center wing panel
• Wing joiner • Wing dowels (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Masking tape • 30-minute epoxy
• Epoxy brush • Mixing stick
• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towels
Step 1
Draw a centerline on the wing joiner as shown.
Step 3
Test the fit of the wing joiner into the remaining wing
panel. The joiner should again slide into the panel with
little resistance up to the line drawn on the joiner. Lightly
sand the joiner as necessary to achieve a proper fit.
Step 4
Remove the covering in the leading edge for the wing
3
dowels. Locate a 1/4" x 1
30-minute epoxy to glue the wing dowels into the wing
panels. The dowels should be inserted so 3/8" of the
dowel is left exposed in front of the leading edge. Repeat
for both wing dowels.
/16" wing dowel. Use
Step 2
Test the fit of the wing joiner into one of the wing panels.
The joiner should slide into the panel with little resistance
up to the line drawn on the joiner. Lightly sand the joiner
as necessary to achieve a proper fit.
Note: The joiner will be angled towards the
top of the wing.
Step 5
Without using any glue, test fit the wing panels together
using the wing joiner. The panels must fit together without
any gaps top or bottom. If any gaps do exist, use a
sanding bar to lightly sand the root ribs of both panels
until the panels fit together perfectly.
6
Page 7
Section 1: Joining the Wing Halves
Note: Read through the remaining steps of
this section before mixing any epoxy.
Hint: It is extremely important to use plenty
of epoxy when joining the wing panels. It will
also be helpful to use wax paper under the
wing joint to avoid gluing the wing to your
work surface.
Step 6
Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using
an epoxy brush, apply a generous amount of epoxy to the
wing joiner cavity of one of the wing panels.
Step 8
Apply epoxy to the exposed portion of the wing joiner and
to both root wing ribs of both panels.
Step 7
Completely coat half of the wing joiner with epoxy. Be sure
to apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the joiner also.
Insert the epoxy-coated side of the joiner into the wing
joiner cavity up to the mark on the joiner. If you have used
enough epoxy, it will ooze out of the cavity as the joiner is
installed. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol.
7
Page 8
Section 1: Joining the Wing Halves
Step 9
Carefully slide the wing panels together. Apply enough
pressure to firmly seat the two wing panels together,
causing any excess epoxy to ooze out from between the
panels. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove
the excess epoxy. Check to make sure there are no visible
gaps between the panels. Use masking tape to securely
hold the wing panels together. Allow the epoxy to fully
cure before continuing to the next section.
Step 11
Remove the covering 1/16" inside the line drawn using a
sharp hobby knife. Remove the lines from the wing using
rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Use medium CA to
glue the plate in position.
Step 12
Step 10
Center the wing bolt plate on the bottom of the wing and
trace the placement of the plate onto the wing using a
felt-tipped pen.
Use a 1/4" drill bit and drill through the place for the
wing bolts.
8
Page 9
AA
A=A
Section 2: Attaching the Wing
Required Parts
• Assembled wing • Fuselage
• 1/4-20 blind nut (2) • 1/4" washer (2)
• 1/4-20 x 1
• Fiberglass wing fairing
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 30-minute epoxy • Pliers
• Hex wrench: 3/16"
1
/2" socket head bolt (2)
Step 1
Locate the two 1/4-20 blind nuts. Mix a small amount of
30-minute epoxy and apply it to the barbs of the blind nut.
Use pliers or a C-clamp to install the blind nut from the
inside of the fuselage.
Step 3
Measure the distance between a point centered at the
rear of the fuselage and each wing tip. The measurement
will be equal if the wing is aligned correctly. If the
measurement is not the same, slightly oval the hole for the
wing bolts until an equal measurement is achieved.
Note: Make sure no epoxy gets into the
threads of the blind nut.
Step 2
1
Use the two 1/4 x 1
1/4" washers to attach the wing to the fuselage.
/2" socket head bolts and
Step 4
Position the fiberglass wing fairing onto the wing. Trace
around the fairing using a felt-tipped pen.
9
Page 10
Section 2: Attaching the Wing
Step 5
Remove a strip of covering that is 1/8" wide inside the
lines drawn in the previous step. Use care not to
cut into the underlying wood, weakening the
wing structure.
Step 6
Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fairing to the wing. Use
a covering iron to apply the trim covering along the joint
between the wing fairing and the wing.
Section 3: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer
Required Parts
• Assembled wing • Fuselage
• Stabilizer • Elevator joiner wire
• 1/4-20 x 2" wing bolt (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hobby knife • Felt-tipped pen
• Ruler
Step 1
Slide the stab into the fuselage, making sure the
stabilizer is as far forward as possible. Center the stab
in the opening by measuring the distance from the
fuselage to each tip. The stab is aligned when both
measurements are identical.
Step 2
Check the distance from each stab tip to a center point at
the firewall. These measurements must be equal for the
stab to be aligned.
10
Page 11
AA
A=A
Section 3: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer
Step 3
Check to make sure the wing and stabilizer are parallel.
If they are not, lightly sand the opening in the fuselage
for the stab until the stab is parallel to the wing.
Step 4
After verifying the alignment of the stabilizer, use a felttipped pen to trace the outline of the fuselage on the stab.
Note: Use care not to cut into the underlying
wood and weaken the structure. Doing so
could cause the stab to fail in flight, resulting
in the loss of your airplane.
Step 6
Slide the elevator joiner wire into the slot for the stabilizer.
Slide the stabilizer partially back into the slot.
Step 5
Remove the stab and use a hobby knife with a new blade
to remove the covering 1/16" inside the lines just drawn.
Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove the
lines once they are no longer needed.
Step 7
Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Apply epoxy to the top
and bottom of the exposed wood of the stabilizer. Slide the
stabilizer the rest of the way into the slot in the fuselage.
Double-check the alignment to verify it’s correct. Remove
any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before continuing.
11
Page 12
Section 4: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Fin
• Tail wheel wire • Steering control arm
• Tail wheel wire support bracket
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 30-minute epoxy • 6-minute epoxy
• Square • Hobby knife
• Pliers • Ruler
Step 1
Remove the covering from the fuselage for the vertical fin.
Test fit the fin to the fuselage. Slide the fin as far back in
the slot as possible. Trace the outline of the fuselage onto
the fin using a felt-tipped pen. Trace the outline of the
dorsal fin onto the top of the fuselage as well.
Step 2
Remove the fin and use a hobby knife with a new blade
to remove the covering 1/16" below the lines just
drawn. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove
the lines once they are no longer needed. Remove the
covering from the bottom of the dorsal fin and the top
of the fuselage.
12
Note: Use care not to cut into the underlying
wood and weaken the structure. Doing so
could cause the fin to fail in flight, resulting in
the loss of your airplane.
Page 13
Section 4: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer
Step 3
Slide the fin back into the fuselage. Check the alignment
of the fin to the stabilizer using a square. The fin must be
90 degrees to the stabilizer when properly aligned.
If not, carefully sand the bottom of the fin to provide the
clearance to align the fin.
Step 4
Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to
both the exposed wood on the fin and the slot in the
fuselage. Use care not to get epoxy on the elevator joiner
wire. Insert the fin and use tape to hold the fin in position
until the epoxy fully cures.
Note: Check the alignment of the fin
periodically to make sure it isn’t moving while
the epoxy cures.
13
Page 14
Section 5: Installing the Ailerons
Required Parts
• Wing • Aileron (left and right)
• CA hinges (6)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • T-pins
Step 1
Remove the aileron from the wing. Place a T-pin in the
center of each hinge.
Step 3
Slide the aileron and wing together. The gap between
the leading edge of the aileron and wing should be a
maximum of approximately 1/64". Check to make sure the
gap, at both ends of the aileron, is equal and the aileron
can move without rubbing on the wing.
Step 2
Place the hinges in the precut slots in the aileron. The
T-pin will rest against the leading edge of the aileron when
installed correctly.
Note: Do not use CA accelerator during the
hinging process. The CA must be allowed to
soak into the hinge to provide the best bond.
Using accelerator will not provide enough time
for this process.
Step 4
Remove the T-pins and move the aileron to provide the
best access to the hinge. Apply thin CA to each hinge.
Make sure the hinge is fully saturated with CA. Use a
paper towel and CA remover/debonder to clean up any
excess CA from the wing and/or aileron. Make sure to
apply CA to both sides of the hinges.
14
Page 15
Section 5: Installing the Ailerons
Step 5
Firmly grasp the wing and aileron and gently pull on the
aileron to ensure the hinges are secure and cannot be
pulled apart. Use caution when gripping the wing and
aileron to avoid crushing the structure.
Step 6
Work the aileron up and down several times to work in the
hinges and check for proper movement.
Step 7
Repeat Steps 1 through 6 for the remaining aileron.
15
Page 16
Section 6: Installing the Elevators
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Elevator (left and right)
• Elevator joiner wire • CA hinge (6)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • T-pins
• 30-minute epoxy • Medium sandpaper
• Drill • Drill bit: 9/64"
Step 1
Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of the
hinges. Place the hinges into the elevator half.
Step 3
Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the
groove and hole in the elevator half. Insert the elevator
joiner wire. Remove any excess epoxy using rubbing
alcohol and a paper towel.
Note: You can combine the previous step with
the following step if you like. This will hold the
elevator in position while the epoxy cures.
Step 4
Check to make sure the elevator moves freely. Check
to make sure the hinge gap between the elevator and
stabilizer is roughly 1/64". Apply thin CA to both sides of
the hinge. Make sure to saturate the hinge and don’t use
accelerator.
Step 2
Test fit the elevator and stab together. The elevator joiner
wire will be inserted into the hole drilled in the elevator.
Step 5
Once the CA and epoxy have fully cured, gently pull
on the elevator and stab to make sure the hinges are
well glued. Flex the elevators a few times to break-in the
hinges following the same procedure as the
aileron installation.
Step 6
Repeat Steps 1 through 5 to install the remaining
elevator half.
16
Page 17
Section 7: Rudder Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Rudder
• Tail wheel assembly • Tail wheel bracket
• #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screw (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 6-minute epoxy • Drill
• Drill bit: 1/8" • Thin CA
• T-pins
Step 1
Roughen the tail gear wire using medium grit sandpaper
where it will enter the rudder. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
the wire into the rudder.
Step 3
Secure the tail wheel bracket to the fuselage using two
#2 x 3/8" sheet metal screws.
Step 4
Slide the wheel collar against the tail wheel bracket and
tighten the setscrew.
Step 2
Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of the
hinges. Place the hinges into the rudder. Slide the hinges
and rudder into position. Check that the gap between the
rudder and fin is roughly 1/64". Apply thin CA to both
sides of the hinges. Perform the pull test after the CA has
fully cured.
17
Page 18
Section 8: Retract Linkage Installation
Required Parts
• Quick connector (2)
• Quick connector washer (2)
• Quick connector retainer (2) • 3mm setscrew (2)
• Retract servo tray mount (2) • Retract servo tray
1
• 3
/4" main wheel (2) • 5/32" wheel collar (2)
• 3mm setscrew (4)
7
• 8
/8" unthreaded retract wire (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 6-minute epoxy • Thick CA
• Retract Servo (JRPS703) • Hobby knife
• Drill • Drill bit: 1/16", 5/64"
• Hex wrench (included in kit)
Step 1
Notes regarding the retracts:
The included mechanical retracts may require some
adjustment after about 30 minutes of flight to keep them
in the best working order. The following clarifies the
operation of the retract, as well as how to make future
adjustments to keep your retracts working as well as they
did when new.
Installation
Adjustments
Adjust the retract down stop by screwing the setscrew
in slightly. It will only take a small amount, so start
by turning it around 1/16 of a turn. If the setscrew is
tightened too much, the retract can bind and stall the
servo, placing unnecessary current loads on the
receiver battery.
The adjustment procedure is common after about
30 flights, depending on your runway surface. Check the
operation of your retracts often to keep them in the best
working order. Keep this section handy for future reference
for your P-47 Thunderbolt retracts.
When installing the linkage, make sure the actuator rod is
moving to the full up and down positions without binding
the servo. Increase the throw by moving the linkage
outward on the servo arm. Decrease the throw by moving
the linkage inward on the servo arm.
If the servo is binding, it will add extra current draw to
the receiver battery and will greatly reduce flight times.
Change the location of the linkage at the servo arm inward
slightly to eliminate binding.
After flying for around 30 flights, you may notice that the
retracts will begin to have a little play. This is normal and
can easily be adjusted out. There are two setscrews to
adjust the up and down stops for these retracts.
Step 2
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two retract servo tray
mounts into the wing as shown. They will rest flush with
the wing sheeting on the inside of the wing.
18
Page 19
Section 8: Retract Linkage Installation
Step 3
Locate the retract servo tray. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue
the servo tray into position.
Step 4
Install a low profile retract servo in the servo tray using
the hardware provided with the servo. Prevent splitting
the servo tray by drilling 1/16" holes for the servo
mounting screws.
Step 6
Use a 5/64" drill bit to drill the appropriate holes in
the arm. Attach two quick connectors to the servo arm
using quick connector washers and retainers.
Step 5
Select a servo arm from those included with your servo
that has a distance of 7/8" to 1" between equally spaced
holes as shown to start with.
Step 7
Connect the retract servo to your radio system and
electronically move the servo to the retracted position.
Slide the retract control wires through the quick
connectors as shown and secure the servo arm to
the retract servo.
19
Page 20
Section 8: Retract Linkage Installation
Step 8
With the retract servo in the retracted position, push the
retract linkage to manually retract the landing gear. Install
3mm setscrews into the quick connectors and tighten
them to secure the retract linkage. Check the actuation
of the retracts, making sure they lock in both the up and
down positions. Make any necessary adjustments to the
linkages as necessary for proper operation of the retracts.
Hint: Adjustments and fine tuning can also
be made to the retract linkages from inside the
wheel wells.
Remember: It may take some time to get the
retracts adjusted so the servo does not stall
when the landing gear is up and extended.
Step 9
Draw a centerline onto the back of one of the gear doors.
Step 11
Attach the gear doors using four 3mm x 10mm screws,
four 3mm lock nuts, eight 3mm washers and two gear
door brackets.
Step 12
Install a wheel and two wheel collars on the main landing
gear. The order of items is 5/32" wheel collar, wheel, and
then another wheel collar. Secure the collars using the
3mm setscrews.
Step 10
Locate two of the gear door brackets. Position the brackets
21/4" and 5" from the top of the door. Mark the locations
for the screws using a felt-tipped pen. Drill the locations
using a 1/8" drill bit.
20
Step 13
Repeat Steps 9 through 12 to complete the retract
installation.
Page 21
Section 9: Four-Stroke Engine Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Engine mount (2)
• 8-32 nylon lock nut (4) • 8-32 blind nut (4)
• #8 washer (8) • Engine
1
• 8-32 x 1
/4" socket head screw (4)
• 8-32 x 1" socket head screw (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hex Wrench: 9/64" • Ruler
• Adjustable wrench • 11/32" socket wrench
• Felt-tipped pen • Medium CA
• 2-56 x 18” pushrod
• Plastic pushrod sleeve (12”)
Step 1
Locate the engine mount and the associated hardware.
Temporarily install the engine to the fuselage using four
8-32 x 1" socket head screws, four #8 washers and four
blind nuts. Leave the bolts loose enough not to draw the
blind nuts into the wood inside the fuselage.
Step 2
Position the engine on the mount and temporarily attach
1
the engine using four 8-32 x 1
four #8 washers and four nylon lock nuts. Position the
engine so the front of the drive washer is 5
firewall. Tighten the bolts holding the engine once the
engine is positioned.
/4" socket head screws,
1
/8" from the
Hint: You can also install the blind nuts
backwards to prevent them from pulling into
the wood on the backside of the firewall.
Just remember to move them to their correct
positioning before moving to the next section.
21
Page 22
Section 9: Four-Stroke Engine Installation
Step 3
Center the engine mount in relationship to the oval holes
in the firewall. Tighten the bolts holding the mount to
the firewall. (Remember to make sure the barbs on the
blind nuts go into the backside of the firewall.) Test fit the
throttle pushrod tube into the fuselage. Once satisfied with
the fit, roughen the tube using medium sandpaper. Slide
the tube back into position and use medium CA to glue it
to the firewall.
Step 4
Position the throttle servo tray so the opening for the
servo is on the same side of the fuselage as the
throttle pushrod tube. Use Medium CA to glue the
tray into position.
Step 5
Attach the “Z” bend on the throttle pushrod wire onto the
carburetor arm. Slide the pushrod wire into the tube.
22
Page 23
Section 10: Two-Stroke Engine Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Engine mount (2)
• 8-32 nylon lock nut (4) • 8-32 blind nut (4)
• #8 washer (8) • Engine
1
• 8-32 x 1
/4" socket head screw (4)
• 8-32 x 1" socket head screw (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hex Wrench: 9/64" • Ruler
• Adjustable wrench • 11/32" socket wrench
• Felt-tipped pen • Medium CA
• 2-56 x 18" pushrod
• Plastic pushrod sleeve (12”)
Step 1
Locate the engine mount and the associated hardware.
Temporarily install the engine to the fuselage using four
8-32 x 1" socket head screws, four #8 washers and four
blind nuts. Leave the bolts loose enough not to draw the
blind nuts into the wood inside the fuselage.
Step 2
Position the engine on the mount and temporarily attach
1
the engine using four 8-32 x 1
four #8 washers and four nylon lock nuts. Position the
engine so the front of the drive washer is 5
firewall. Tighten the bolts holding the engine once the
engine is positioned.
/4" socket head screws,
1
/8" from the
Hint: You can also install the blind nuts
backwards to prevent them from pulling into
the wood on the backside of the firewall.
Just remember to move them to their correct
positioning before moving to the next section.
23
Page 24
Section 10: Two-Stroke Engine Installation
Step 3
Center the engine mount in relationship to the oval holes
in the firewall. Tighten the bolts holding the mount to
the firewall. (Remember to make sure the barbs on the
blind nuts go into the backside of the firewall.)
throttle pushrod tube into the fuselage. Once satisfied with
the fit, roughen the tube using medium sandpaper. Slide
the tube back into position and use medium CA to glue it
to the firewall.
Test fit the
Step 4
Position the throttle servo tray so the opening for the
servo is on the same side of the fuselage as the
throttle pushrod tube. Use Medium CA to glue the
tray into position.
Step 5
Attach the “Z” bend on the throttle pushrod wire onto the
carburetor arm. Slide the pushrod wire into the tube.
24
Page 25
Section 11: Fuel Tank Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Fuel tank assembly
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hobby knife • Fuel tubing
• Foam: 1/4" • Masking tape
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
Step 1
Mark the vent tube on the fuel tank. This will be helpful
after the tank has been mounted in the fuselage.
Note: When installing the fuel tank, make
sure to have a piece of foam at any point
that contacts any structure inside the
fuselage. Without the foam, vibrations will be
transmitted to the fuel tank, which could cause
the fuel to foam. In turn, you will not get the
optimum performance from your engine.
Step 2
Step 3
Install the fuel tank into the fuselage. Make any necessary
supports to keep the tank from moving during flight. Make
sure the vent tube faces towards the top of the fuselage.
Note: Make sure that any support braces
installed will not interfere with the installation
of the wing or linkages.
Connect two 8" pieces of fuel tubing for pickup and
vent tubes.
Step 4
Make the proper connections to the engine, using the
engine manufacturer’s instructions. If you are using a
4-stoke, make sure to route the crankcase vent to the
outside of the cowling.
25
Page 26
Section 12: Radio Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Wing assembly
• Servo w/hardware (5) • #2 x 3/8" screws (8)
• 3/8" x 5/8" x 5/8" servo mounting block (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill • Drill bit: 1/16"
• 6-minute epoxy • Thin CA
• Felt-tipped pen • Hobby knife
• Ruler
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
• 12" Servo Extension (JRPA098) (2)
• 18" Servo Extension (JRPA099) (2)
Step 1
Install the recommended servo hardware (grommets
and eyelets) supplied with your radio system onto five
servos (elevator, rudder, throttle and 2 ailerons). Mark
the locations for the servo screws using a felt-tipped
pen. Remove the servo and drill the holes for the servo
mounting screws using a 1/16" drill bit. Secure the
throttle servo using the screws provided with the servo.
Step 2
Remove the covering from the opening on the side of
the fuselage for the rudder servo. Connect an 18" Servo
Extension (JRPA099) to the servo lead. Secure the
connectors by tying them in a knot using dental floss or
by using a commercially available connector clamp to
prevent the servo leads from becoming disconnected.
Note: It is always a good idea to
secure the servo connector and servo
extension together to prevent the wires from
becoming unplugged.
Step 3
Temporarily install the rudder servo. Mark the locations
for the servo screws using a felt-tipped pen. Remove the
servo and drill the holes for the servo mounting screws
using a 1/16" drill bit. Secure the rudder servo using the
screws provided with the servo.
Hint: Place a drop of thin CA onto each screw
hole to harden the wood around the hole.
Allow the CA to fully cure before installing
the servos.
26
Step 4
Repeat Steps 2 and 3 for the elevator servo.
Page 27
Section 12: Radio Installation
Step 5
Mount the radio switch to the side of the fuselage.
Step 6
Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in protective
foam to prevent damage that may be caused by
engine vibration. Connect any necessary extensions and
Y-harnesses necessary to connect the retract and aileron
servos. Connect the elevator, rudder and throttle servo
leads to the receiver.
Step 8
Route the antenna through the bottom of the fuselage and
secure it to a location at the tail with rubber bands.
Step 9
Remove the aileron hatch from the wing. Remove the
covering from the slot for the aileron horn.
Note: The aileron servo is mounted directly to
the hatch.
Step 10
Install the recommended servo hardware (grommets and
eyelets) supplied with the servo. Temporarily install a
long half servo arm (JRPA212) onto the servo and
position the servo onto the hatch so the servo arm is
centered in the notch. Once satisfied, mark the location for
the servo mounting blocks.
Step 7
Use rubber bands or a hook and loop strap to attach the
receiver and battery to the radio tray. It may be necessary
to relocate the battery forward or aft to balance the
model as described in the section “Control Throws and
Center of Gravity.”
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Section 12: Radio Installation
Step 11
Locate the 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" servo mounting blocks. Use
6-minute epoxy to glue the blocks to the hatch. Let the
epoxy fully cure before proceeding to the next step.
Step 12
Place the aileron servo between the mounting blocks and
use a felt-tipped pen to mark the location of the four servo
mounting screws. Note that the servo must not touch the
hatch in order to isolate engine vibration.
Step 13
Remove the servo and use a 1/16" drill bit to predrill
the holes for the servo mounting screws marked in the
previous step. Use the screws supplied with the servo to
mount it to the servo mounting blocks.
Step 14
Connect a 12" Servo Lead extension (JRPA098) to the
servo lead. Secure the connectors by tying them in
a knot using dental floss or by using a commercially
available connector clamp to prevent the servo leads from
becoming disconnected.
Note: Before mounting the servo, it is
suggested to electronically center the servo
using the transmitter, then install the servo arm
to avoid having to remove the servo and center
the arm later. It may be necessary to slightly
trim one of the servo mounting blocks to clear
the servo wire.
Note: It is always a good idea to secure
the servo connector and servo extension
together to prevent the wires from becoming
unplugged.
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Section 12: Radio Installation
Step 15
Tie the preinstalled string onto the servo extension. Gently
pull the extension through the wing using the string. Untie
the string when the servo lead has been pulled through.
Use tape to secure the servo lead to the wing to prevent it
from falling back into the wing panel.
Step 17
Remove the servo hatch cover and re-drill the holes using
a 5/64" drill bit. Use 2–3 drops of thin CA to harden
the underlying wood. This will prevent the screws from
crushing the wood when they are tightened. Secure the
hatch using four #2 x 3/8" screws.
Step 16
Place the hatch cover in position in the aileron opening.
Measure in 1/8" on all four sides of the hatch. Drill four
1/16" holes at the intersections of the lines as shown.
Note: Drill through the servo hatch and the
underlying hatch mounts. Use caution not to
accidentally drill through the top of the wing.
Step 18
Repeat Steps 9 through 17 for the remaining
aileron servo.
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Section 13: Linkage Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Wing assembly
• 6" pushrod wire (4) • M3x6 machine screw
• Nylon clevis (4) • Nylon wire keeper (4)
• Nylon control horn (3) • 2-56 x 3/4" screw (6)
• Quick connector • 2-56 x 1
• Quick connector backplate
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill
• Drill bit: 1/16", 5/64", 3/32"
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
1
/4" screw (6)
Step 1
Thread a clevis onto a 6" wire a minimum of 10 turns.
Step 3
Drill three 3/32" holes through the elevator at the
locations marked in the previous step.
Step 4
Place 2–3 drops of thin CA into the hole to harden the
wood. Repeat this for each of the three holes.
Step 2
Remove the back plate from a control horn using side
cutters or a sharp hobby knife. Position the control horn
on the elevator so the horn aligns with the hinge line of
the elevator. Mark the position for the mounting holes
using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 5
Attach the control horn using three 2-56 x 1/2" screws
and the control backplate.
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Section 13: Linkage Installation
Step 6
Center the elevator servo electronically using the radio
system. Install a servo arm onto the elevator servo. Attach
the pushrod with clevis to the control horn. Physically
place the elevator control surface in neutral. Mark the
pushrod where it crosses the holes in the servo arm.
Step 7
Bend the wire 90 degrees at the mark made in the
previous step. Cut the wire 3/8" above the bend. Slide
the wire through the outer hole in the elevator servo arm.
Secure the wire using a nylon wire keeper. It may be
necessary to drill out the hole in the servo arm using a
5/64" drill bit.
Step 8
Repeat Steps 1 through 7 for the rudder linkage.
Step 9
Remove the back plate from a control horn using side
cutters or a sharp hobby knife. Position the control horn
on the aileron so the horn aligns with the aileron servo
horn and the aileron hinge line. Mark the position for the
mounting holes using a felt-tipped pen.
Note: Use a 1/4" piece of heat shrink
tubing on the clevis to keep it from opening
during flight.
Step 10
Drill three 3/32" holes at the locations marked in the
previous step. Apply thin CA to each of the three holes to
harden the balsa. Attach the control horn using three
1
2-56 x 1
/4" screws and the control horn backplate.
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Section 13: Linkage Installation
Step 11
Slide a clevis retainer onto a nylon clevis. Thread a clevis
onto a 6” wire a minimum of 10 turns. Center the aileron
servo electronically using the radio system. Attach the
pushrod with clevis to the control horn. Physically place
the aileron control surface in neutral. Mark the pushrod
where it crosses the holes in the servo arm.
Step 12
Bend the wire 90 degrees at the mark made in the
previous step. Cut the wire 3/8" above the bend. Slide
the wire through the outer hole in the aileron servo arm.
Secure the wire using a nylon wire keeper.
Step 16
Move the servo to the throttle open position using the
radio system. Manually move the throttle arm on the
carburetor to the open position. Use a 3mm setscrew to
secure the throttle pushrod wire.
Step 17
Step 13
Repeat Steps 9 through 12 for the other aileron servo.
Step 14
Use a 5/64" drill bit to drill a hole in the throttle
servo arm.
Step 15
Check the movement of the throttle to verify there is no
binding at either low or high throttle. If there is, make the
necessary adjustment to eliminate any binding. Install the
throttle servo arm screw when complete.
Attach a quick connector to the servo arm using quick
connector washers and retainers. Center the throttle stick
and trim with both the receiver and transmitter on. Install
the throttle servo arm in the neutral position.
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Section 14: Cowling Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Cowling
• #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screw (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill • Drill bit: 1/16", 1/8"
• Hobby scissors • 6-minute epoxy
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
• Rotary tool with sanding drum
Step 1
Remove the center from the dummy radial engine to allow
the engine drive washer to fit. Remove the areas between
the cylinders to allow for cooling air to the engine.
Step 3
Glue the 5/8" x 13/16" x 13/16" cowl blocks to the firewall
using 30-minute epoxy. The blocks should be placed
evenly around the firewall perimeter.
Step 4
Test fit the cowling onto the fuselage. Remove any
material necessary to clear the various engine
components. The cowl is positioned so the drive washer
from the engine is 1/8" forward of the front edge of the
dummy radial.
Step 2
Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the dummy radial
engine into the cowling. Use care to make sure the
radial is positioned an even distance from the front
edge of the cowling.
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Section 14: Cowling Installation
Step 5
Use pieces of card stock to mark the locations for the cowl
mounting blocks and any other engine items that may not
have been trimmed in Step 4. Mark the locations of these
items onto the cowl using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 6
Drill the locations for the cowl mounting screws using a
1/8" drill. Drill the mounting blocks using a 5/64" drill.
Mount the cowl using four #4 x 5/8" sheet metal screws.
Be sure to drill the hole to access the glow plug. We also
added a Hangar 9 Fuel Filler (HAN115) to allow easy
filling of the fuel tank..
Step 7
Install the propeller using the instructions provided by the
engine manufacturer.
Note: The cover model is shown with a Tru-
1
Turn 1
It also requires a propeller adapter for your
specific engine.
/4" A-Style prop hub (TRUB1250A).
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Section 15: Canopy and Decal Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Canopy
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Canopy glue (RC-56)
• Sandpaper (medium grit)
• Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo
• Hangar 9™ 1/7th scale WWII pilot (HAN8311)
(Optional)
Step 1
Install a pilot of your choosing. Use epoxy or Zap-A-DapA-Goo to secure the pilot. Use Lexan scissors to trim the
backrest. Use Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo to glue the backrest into
position. Install the instrument panel decal as well.
Step 3
Position the canopy onto the fuselage. Trace around the
canopy and onto the fuselage using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 4
Lightly sand the inside edge of the canopy and
slightly inside the line drawn on the hatch using
medium sandpaper.
Step 2
Use Lexan scissors to trim the canopy.
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Section 15: Canopy and Decal Installation
Step 5
Apply a bead of RCZ56 Canopy Glue (ZINJ5007) around
the inside edge of the canopy. Position the canopy onto
the hatch. Use tape to hold the canopy secure until the
glue fully cures.
Adjusting the Engine
Step 6
Apply the decals. Use the photos on the box to aid
in their location.
Step 1
Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure.
Step 2
At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at
full throttle and adjust the idle and low-speed needle so
that a consistent idle is achieved.
Preflight
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your
airplane. Use the recommended charger supplied with
your particular radio system, following the instructions
provided with the radio. In most cases the radio should be
charged the night before going out flying.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction
and with the recommended throws). Test run the engine
and make sure it transitions smoothly from idle to
full throttle and back. Also ensure the engine is tuned
according to the manufacturers instructions, and it will run
consistently and constantly at full throttle when adjusted.
Step 3
Before you fly, be sure that your engine idles reliably,
transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only when this
is achieved should any plane be considered ready
for flight.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and clevises to
make sure they are secure and in good condition. Replace
any items that would be considered questionable. Failure
of any of these components in flight would mean the loss
of your aircraft.
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Control Throws
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as closely
as possible using mechanical means, rather than making
large changes electronically at the radio. By moving
the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the
outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of control
throw of the control surface. Moving it toward the control
surface will increase the amount of throw. Moving the
pushrod wire at the servo arm will have the opposite
effect: Moving it closer to center will decrease throw,
and away from center will increase throw. Work with a
combination of the two to achieve the closest or exact
control throws listed.
Note: Control throws are measured at the
widest part of the elevator, rudder, and aileron
unless noted otherwise.
/16" Left/Right 13/8" Left/Right
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is
properly balancing the model. This is especially important
when various engines are mounted.
Caution: Do not inadvertently skip this step!
Range Testing the Radio
Before each flying session, range-check your radio.
This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with
the antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able
to walk 30 paces away from your airplane and still have
complete control of all functions. If not, don’t attempt
to fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by the
manufacturer.
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for
the P-47 is 4.5" behind the leading edge of the wing
against the fuselage. Make sure the gear is retracted
when checking the CG, as the CG will change depending
on the gear position. If necessary, move the battery pack
or add weight to either the nose or the tail until the
correct balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are
available at your local hobby shop and work well
for this purpose.
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2005 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
GENERAL
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until
it has been proven to be airworthy by having been
previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying
the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid
flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where
necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise
flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless
and/or dangerous manner.
4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55
pounds, except models flown under Experimental
Aircraft rules.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model. (This does not apply to models while being
flown indoors.)
6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed
propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which gases
other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely
hazardous fuels such as those containing
tetranitromethane or hydrazine.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets,
explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke
bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled
balloons), or ground mounted devices launching a
projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets
flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry
Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per
JATO use); also those items authorized for Air Show
Team use as defined by AST Advisory Committee
(document available from AMA HQ). In any case,
models using rocket motors as a primary means of
propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3
pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is
defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able
to carry a human being.)
8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to,
nor during, participation in any model operations.
9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed
on the flight line as a pilot or while receiving
flight instruction.
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless
assisted by an experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must
be established in front of which all flying takes place
with the other side for spectators. Only personnel
involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in
the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the
flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)
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2005 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more
are considered safe from site-to site interference,
even when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference
test reports shall be signed by the parties involved
and provided to AMA Headquarters. Documents of
agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and
individual AMA members not associated with AMA
Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA members.
6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic
inch of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine
= 200 feet.); electric motors will be based on
equivalent combustion engine size. Additional safety
requirements will be per the RC Combat section of the
current Competition Regulations.
7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a
single straight line must be established, one side of
which is for flying, with the other side for spectators.
8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in flight.
Organized RC Racing Event
10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete
in flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.
A. In every organized racing event in which
contestants, callers and officials are on the course:
1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly
wear helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or
NOCSAE approved or comparable standard while on
the racecourse.
2. All officials will be off the course except for the
starter and their assistant.
3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond
the pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.
B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized
racing event which does not comply with paragraph A
above or which allows models over 20 pounds unless
that competition event is AMA sanctioned.
C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator
(line) will be in accordance with the current
Competition Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing
section for the specific event pending two or three
pylon course layout.
11) RC night flying is limited to low-performance
models (less than 100 mph). The models must be
equipped with a lighting system that clearly defines
the aircraft’s attitude at all times.