Radio and Power Systems Requirements
Required Tools and Adhesives
Covering Colors
Required Field Equipment
Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Safety Precautions
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Questions or Assistance
Inspection or Repairs
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
Warranty Information
Using the Manual
Non-Warranty Repairs
• 2-Cycle Sport Plug (HAN3001) • 2-Cycle Super Plug (HAN3006)
• 4-Cycle Super Plug (HAN3011) • Manual Fuel Pump (HAN118)
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Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Pursuant to this Limited Warranty, Horizon Hobby, Inc. will, at its option, (i) repair or (ii) replace, any product determined
by Horizon Hobby, Inc. to be defective. In the event of a defect, these are your exclusive remedies.
This warranty does not cover cosmetic damage or damage due to acts of God, accident, misuse, abuse, negligence,
commercial use, or modification of or to any part of the product. This warranty does not cover damage due to improper
installation, operation, maintenance, or attempted repair by anyone other than an authorized Horizon Hobby, Inc. service
center. This warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is not transferable. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased product and will not cover consequential, incidental or collateral
damage. Horizon Hobby, Inc. reserves the right to inspect any and all equipment involved in a warranty claim. Repair
or replacement decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER.
HORIZON HOBBY, INC. SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.
As Horizon Hobby, Inc. has no control over use, setup, final assembly, modification or misuse, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury. By the act of use, setup or assembly, the user accepts all
resulting liability.
If you as the purchaser or user are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, you are
advised to return this product immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Safety Precautions
This is a sophisticated hobby product and not a toy. It must be operated with caution and common sense and requires
some basic mechanical ability. Failure to operate this product in a safe and responsible manner could result in injury or
damage to the product or other property. This product is not intended for use by children without direct adult supervision.
The product manual contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance. It is essential to read and follow all
the instructions and warnings in the manual, prior to assembly, setup or use, in order to operate correctly and avoid
damage or injury.
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Your local hobby store and/or place of purchase cannot provide warranty support or repair. Once assembly, setup or use
of the product has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly. This will enable Horizon to better answer
your questions and service you in the event that you may need any assistance.
Questions or Assistance
For questions or assistance, please direct your email to productsupport@horizonhobby.com, or call 877.504.0233 toll
free to speak to a service technician.
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Inspection or Repairs
If your product needs to be inspected or repaired, please call for a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA). Pack the
product securely using a shipping carton. Please note that original boxes may be included, but are not designed to
withstand the rigors of shipping without additional protection. Ship via a carrier that provides tracking and insurance for
lost or damaged parcels, as Horizon Hobby, Inc. is not responsible for merchandise until it arrives and is accepted at
our facility. Include your complete name, address, phone number where you can be reached during business days, RMA
number, and a brief summary of the problem. Be sure your name, address, and RMA number are clearly written on the
shipping carton.
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
To receive warranty service, you must include your original sales receipt verifying the proof-of-purchase date. Providing
warranty conditions have been met, your product will be repaired or replaced free of charge. Repair or replacement
decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby.
Warranty Information
Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without
notice. In that Horizon Hobby has no control over the final assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By
the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
Once assembly of the model has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly regarding any warranty
question that you have. Please do not contact your local hobby shop regarding warranty issues, even if that is where you
purchased it. This will enable Horizon to better answer your questions and service you in the event that you may need any
assistance. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised
to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
Horizon Hobby
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
(217) 355-9511
Using the Manual
This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand, and to provide breaks between each
major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next to each step to keep track of each step completed. Steps
with a single box (
repeating, such as for a right or left wing panel, two servos, etc. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.
) are performed once, while steps with two boxes ( ) indicate that the step will require
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Non-Warranty Repairs
Should your repair not be covered by warranty and the expense exceeds 50% of the retail purchase cost, you will be
provided with an estimate advising you of your options. You will be billed for any return freight for non-warranty repairs.
Please advise us of your preferred method of payment. Horizon Hobby accepts money orders and cashiers checks, as
well as Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and Discover cards. If you choose to pay by credit card, please include your
credit card number and expiration date. Any repair left unpaid or unclaimed after 90 days will be considered abandoned
and will be disposed of accordingly.
Electronics and engines requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):
Horizon Service Center
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
All other products requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):
Horizon Product Support
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, Illinois 61822
Warning
An RC aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas,
preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your
radio and power systems.
Before Starting Assembly
Before beginning the assembly of the F6F Hellcat, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect
the fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the
place of purchase.
If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or sealing iron to remove them. Use caution while working around
areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the two retract servo
tray rails into the wing. Make sure the rails
rest on the bottom sheeting of the wing.
Step 2
Locate the retract servo tray. Use 6-minute epoxy
to glue the servo tray into position. Keep the retract
actuating wires on the top side of the servo tray.
Step 3
Install the low-profile retract servo in the servo
tray using the hardware provided with the servo.
Prevent splitting the servo tray by drilling 1/16"
(1.5mm) holes for the servo mounting screws.
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Section 1: Retract Linkage Installation
Step 4
Select a servo arm from those included with your
servo that has a distance of 1" (25mm) between
equally spaced holes as shown. Use a 5/64" (2mm)
drill bit to drill the appropriate holes in the arm.
Step 5
Attach two quick connectors to the servo arm
using quick connector washers and retainers.
Step 6
Connect the retract servo to your radio system
and electronically move the servo to the
retracted position. Slide the retract control wires
through the quick connectors as shown and
secure the servo arm to the retract servo.
Step 7
With the retract servo in the up position, use
the linkage to manually retract the landing gear.
Install a 3mm setscrew into the quick connectors
and tighten them to secure the linkage.
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Page 10
Section 1: Retract Linkage Installation
Step 8
Check the actuation of the retracts, making sure
they fully lock in both the up and down positions.
Make any necessary adjustments to the linkages as
necessary for proper operation of the retracts.
Step 9
Install the wheel wells once the retracts have been
adjusted. Roughen the bottom side of the well and
surrounding covering using medium sandpaper. Clean
both the wing and wheel well using rubbing alcohol and
a paper towel. Trace around the wheel well onto the wing.
Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering to expose
the underlying wood. Glue the wells using 6-minute epoxy.
Hint: Adjustments and fine tuning can
also be made to the retract linkages
from inside the wheel wells.
Hint: Use clear tape and tape the wells into
position when flying from rough surfaces.
This will allow easy access to the linkages in
case they might need future adjustments.
Step 10
Install a wheel and two wheel collars on the main
landing gear. The order of items is 5/32" wheel collar,
wheel, and then another wheel collar. Secure the collars
using the 3mm setscrews. Use threadlock to prevent
the wheel collars from vibrating loose during flight.
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Section 1: Retract Linkage Installation
Note: The retract has been removed
from the aircraft for clarity. Do not
over-tighten the screw or the retract
will bind and not operate correctly.
Step 11
With the retract extended, physically check to make
sure the retract does not move fore or aft by moving
the strut as shown in Step 10. Tighten the adjustment
screw in the front of the retract to eliminate any
play when in the down and locked position.
Step 13
The landing gear door is attached using two aluminum
brackets, four 3mm x 10mm screws, four 3mm washers
and four 3mm nuts. Draw a centerline down the backside
of the landing gear door to aid in alignment. Pre-drill the
landing gear doors for the screws using a 1/8" (3mm)
drill bit. Make sure the location of the aluminum brackets
does not interfere with the operation of the retracts.
Step 12
If you notice that the retract has play when fully
retracted, it may be necessary to tighten the adjustment
screw on the retract to eliminate this. The screw
is located inside the retract, so it will have to be
removed from the aircraft to make this adjustment.
Note: It is suggested to leave the
gear doors off when flying from
grass or other rough surfaces.
Step 14
Repeat Steps 8 through 13 to complete the
retract installation.
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Page 12
Section 2: Aileron Installation
Required Parts
• Outer wing panel (L&R) • Aileron (left and right)
• Nylon clevis (2) • Clevis retainer (2)
• CA hinges (6) • #2 x 3/4" screw (6)
• #2 x 3/8" sheet metal screw (8)
• Servo (2)
• Long servo arm (JRPA212) (2)
• 6" (153mm) pushrod wire (2)
• Control horn w/backplate (2)
• Servo Extension, 18" (458mm) (2) (JRPA099)
• 3/8" x 3/4" x 3/4" (9.5mm x 19mm x 19mm)
servo mounting block (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • T-pins
• Drill • 6-minute epoxy
• Ruler • Felt-tipped pen
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm),
3/32" (2.5mm)
Step 1
Step 2
Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center
of each hinge.
Step 3
Place the hinges in the precut slots in the
aileron. The T-pin will rest against the leading
edge of the aileron when installed correctly.
Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to drill a hole in the
center of each hinge location. Drill holes in both the
wing and aileron. This creates a tunnel for the CA to
wick into, allowing for a better bond of the hinge.
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Page 13
Section 2: Aileron Installation
Step 4
Slide the aileron and wing together. The gap between
the leading edge of the aileron and wing should be a
maximum of approximately 1/64" (.4mm). Check to
make sure the gap at the ends of the aileron are equal
and the aileron can move without rubbing on the wing.
Note: Do not use CA accelerator during
the hinging process. The CA must be
allowed to soak into the hinge to provide
the best bond. Using accelerator will not
provide enough time for this process.
Step 6
Firmly grasp the wing and aileron and gently pull
on the aileron to ensure the hinges are secure and
cannot be pulled apart. Use caution when gripping the
wing and aileron to avoid crushing the structure.
Step 7
Work the aileron up and down several times to work
in the hinges and check for proper movement.
Step 5
Remove the T-pins and move the aileron to provide
the best access to the hinge. Apply thin CA to each
hinge. Make sure the hinge is fully saturated with
CA. Use a paper towel and CA remover/debonder to
clean up any excess CA from the wing and/or aileron.
Make sure to apply CA to both sides of the hinges.
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Section 2: Aileron Installation
Step 8
Remove the aileron hatch from the wing. Remove
the covering from the slot for the aileron horn.
Note: The aileron servo is
mounted directly to the hatch.
Step 9
Install the recommended servo hardware (grommets
and eyelets) supplied with the servo. Cut one arm off
a long half servo arm (JRPA212) and attach it to the
servo and position the servo onto the hatch so the
servo arm is centered in the notch. Once satisfied,
mark the location for the servo mounting blocks.
Step 10
Locate the servo mounting blocks. Use 6-minute
epoxy to glue the blocks to the hatch. Let the epoxy
fully cure before proceeding to the next step.
Step 11
Place the aileron servo between the mounting
blocks and use a felt-tipped pen to mark the
location of the four servo mounting screws.
14
Note: The servo must not touch the hatch
in order to isolate engine vibration.
Note: Before mounting the servo, it is
suggested to electronically center the
servo using the transmitter, then install
the servo arm to avoid having to remove
the servo and center the arm later.
Page 15
Section 2: Aileron Installation
Note: It may be necessary to slightly
trim one of the servo mounting
blocks to clear the servo wire.
Step 12
Remove the servo and use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit to
predrill the holes for the servo mounting screws marked
in the previous step. Use the screws supplied with
the servo to mount it to the servo mounting blocks.
Step 14
Tie the preinstalled string onto the servo extension.
Tie a small weight onto the string at the root
of the outer panel. Use the string and weight
to pull the extension out of the tip panel.
Step 15
Step 13
Connect an 18" (458mm) Servo Lead extension
(JRPA099) to the servo lead. Secure the connectors by
tying them in a knot using dental floss (as shown) or
by using a commercially available connector clamp to
prevent the servo leads from becoming disconnected.
Note: It is always a good idea to secure the
servo connector and servo extension together
to prevent the wires from becoming unplugged.
Place the hatch cover in position in the aileron
opening. Measure in 1/8" (3mm) on all four
sides of the hatch. Drill four 1/16" (1.5mm) holes
at the intersections of the lines as shown.
Note: Drill through the servo hatch and the
underlying hatch mounts. Use caution not to
accidentally drill through the top of the wing.
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Section 2: Aileron Installation
Step 16
Remove the servo hatch cover and re-drill the holes
using a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit. Use 2–3 drops of thin
CA to harden the underlying wood. This will prevent
the screws from crushing the wood when they are
tightened. Secure the hatch using four #2 x 3/8" screws.
Step 17
Remove the back plate from a control horn
using side cutters or a sharp hobby knife.
Step 18
Position the control horn on the aileron so the
horn aligns with the aileron servo horn and the
aileron hinge line. Mark the position for the
mounting holes using a felt-tipped pen.
16
Step 19
Drill three 3/32" (2.5mm) holes at the
locations marked in the previous step.
Page 17
Section 2: Aileron Installation
Step 20
Attach the control horn using three #2 x 3/4"
screws and the control horn backplate.
Step 22
Center the aileron servo electronically using the
radio system. Attach the pushrod with clevis to
the control horn. Physically place the aileron
control surface in neutral. Mark the pushrod
where it crosses the holes in the servo arm.
Step 23
Bend the wire 90 degrees at the mark made in the
previous step. Cut the wire 3/8" (9.5mm) above the bend.
Note: Cut the excess screw extending from
the control horn backplate using side cutters.
Step 21
Slide a clevis retainer onto a nylon clevis. Thread a clevis
onto a 6" (153mm) pushrod wire a minimum of 10 turns.
Step 24
Use a 5/64" (2mm) drill to enlarge the outer hole
in the servo arm. Slide the wire through the hole.
Secure the wire using a nylon wire keeper.
Step 25
Repeat Steps 1 through 24 for the other aileron servo.
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Section 3: Joining the Wing Panels
Required Parts
• Left and right wing panels • Center wing panel
• Wing joiner (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Masking tape • 30-minute epoxy
• Epoxy brush • Mixing stick
• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towels
• Sealing iron • Measuring cup
Step 1
Test the fit of the wing joiner into the outer wing
panel and the center panel. The forked end is
inserted into the center panel. The joiner should
slide into each with little resistance. Lightly sand
the joiner as necessary to achieve a proper fit.
Step 2
Without using any glue, test fit the wing panel and center
panel together using the wing joiner. The panels must
fit together without any gaps top or bottom. If any gaps
do exist, use a sanding bar to lightly sand the root ribs
of both panels until the panels fit together perfectly.
Step 3
Tuck the servo lead back into the tip panel. Place
the weight inside the outer panel, but do not tape
it in, as it will eventually drop through the center
panel and out the opening for the retract servo.
Note: Read through the remaining steps
of this section before mixing any epoxy.
Note: The joiner will be angled
towards the top of the wing.
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Section 3: Joining the Wing Panels
Hint: It is extremely important to use
plenty of epoxy when joining the wing
panels. It will also be helpful to use
wax paper under the wing joint to avoid
gluing the wing to your work surface.
Step 4
Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using
an epoxy brush, apply a generous amount of epoxy
to the wing joiner cavity of the outer wing panel.
Step 6
Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the joiner
cavity and root rib of the center wing panel.
Note: Be careful not to get epoxy in
the area of the retract linkage.
Step 5
Completely coat the section of the wing joiner that will
be inserted into the outer panel with epoxy. Be sure to
apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the joiner also.
Insert the epoxy-coated side of the joiner into the
outer wing joiner cavity up to the mark on the joiner.
If you have used enough epoxy, it will ooze out of the
cavity as the joiner is installed. Remove any excess
epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Step 7
Apply epoxy to the exposed portion of the wing
joiner and to the root wing rib of both panels.
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Section 3: Joining the Wing Panels
Step 8
Carefully slide the wing panels together. Apply enough
pressure to firmly seat the two wing panels together,
causing any excess epoxy to ooze out from between
the panels. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel
to remove the excess epoxy. Check to make sure
there are no visible gaps between the panels.
Step 9
Use masking tape to securely hold the wing
panels together. Allow the epoxy to fully cure
before continuing to the next section.
Step 10
Once the epoxy has fully cured, use a sealing iron to apply
the trim to the joint between the outer panel and center
panel. Position the wing so the tip panel is up. The weight
should fall to the center where it can be retrieved from the
opening for the retract servo. Pull the servo lead through.
Step 11
Repeat Steps 1 through 10 for the remaining wing panel.
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Section 4: Engine Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage • Engine mount (2)
• 8-32 nylon lock nut (4) • 8-32 blind nut (4)
• #8 washer (8) • Engine
• 8-32 x 1
1
/4" socket head screw (4)
• 8-32 x 1" socket head screw (4)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hex wrench: 9/64" • Ruler
• Adjustable wrench • 11/32" socket wrench
• Drill bit: 5/32" (4mm) • Drill
• Phillips screwdriver
Step 1
Locate the engine mount and the associated hardware.
Temporarily install the engine mount to the fuselage
using four 8-32 x 1" socket head screws, four #8 washers
and four blind nuts. Leave the bolts loose enough not to
draw the blind nuts into the wood inside the fuselage.
Step 2
Temporarily attach the engine using four 8-32 x 1
socket head screws, four #8 washers and four
nylon lock nuts.
Step 3
Position the engine so the front of the drive washer
9
is 5
/16" (142mm) from the firewall. Tighten the bolts
holding the engine once the engine is positioned.
1
/4"
Hint: You can also install the blind nuts
backwards to prevent them from pulling into
the wood on the backside of the firewall.
Just remember to move them to their correct
positioning before moving to the next section.
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Section 4: Engine Installation
Step 4
Center the engine mount in relation to the oval holes
in the firewall. Tighten the bolts holding the mount
to the firewall. (Remember to make sure the barbs on
the blind nuts go into the backside of the firewall.)
Note: Install the screws and blind nuts
one at a time so the mount doesn't
change positions on the firewall.
Step 6
Drill a 5/32" (4mm) hole in former 2 that corresponds
to the location of the hole drilled in the firewall.
Note: Make sure to drill the hole in former
2 far enough inside the fuselage so the wing
will not interfere with the pushrod tube.
Step 5
Determine the proper location for the throttle pushrod.
Mark the location with a felt-tipped pen. Remove
the engine and drill the firewall for the pushrod
tube using a drill and 5/32" (4mm) drill bit.
Step 7
Test fit the throttle pushrod tube through the
firewall, through former 2, and into the fuselage.
Once satisfied with the fit, roughen the tube using
medium sandpaper. Slide the tube back into position
and use medium CA to glue it to the firewall.
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Section 4: Engine Installation
Step 8
Attach the “Z” bend on the throttle pushrod wire
onto the carburetor arm. Slide the pushrod wire into
the tube and secure the engine to the firewall.
Note: When installing the fuel tank, make
sure to have a piece of foam at any point
that contacts any structure inside the
fuselage. Without the foam, vibrations will be
transmitted to the fuel tank, which could cause
the fuel to foam. In turn, you will not get the
optimum performance from your engine.
Step 9
Install the fuel tank into the fuselage. Place small
pieces of foam where the fuel tank contacts
the formers. Make any necessary supports to
keep the tank from moving during flight.
Note: Make sure that any support
braces installed will not interfere with the
installation of the wing or linkages.
Step 10
Install the muffler. There should be plenty of clearance
between the muffler and firewall. Make the proper
connections to the engine, using the engine manufacturer’s
instructions. If you are using a four-stoke, make sure to
route the crankcase vent to the outside of the cowling.
Hint: The fuel tank tubes have be anodized
red and green. The red tube is associated with
the clunk, which goes to the carburetor. the
green tube is associated with the muffler.
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Section 5: Canopy and Decal Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Canopy
• #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Canopy glue • Rubbing alcohol
• Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo • Paper towel
• Sandpaper (medium grit)
• 1/7 U.S. WWII Pilot (HAN8311)
Step 1
Trim the instrument decal from the decal sheet.
Place the instrument panel into position. Use ZapA-Dap-A-Goo to glue the backrest into position.
Step 4
Position the canopy onto the fuselage. Trace around the
canopy and onto the fuselage using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 5
Lightly sand the inside edge of the canopy and
slightly inside the line drawn on the fuselage using
medium sandpaper. Clean both the fuselage and
canopy using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
Step 2
Install a pilot of your choosing. We used the
1/7 U.S. WWII Pilot (HAN8311). Use epoxy
or Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo to secure the pilot.
Step 3
Use Lexan scissors to trim the canopy.
24
Note: A better bond can be made between
the canopy and fuselage by removing
about 1/8" (3mm) of the covering
inside the line drawn in Step 4.
Page 25
Section 5: Canopy and Decal Installation
Step 6
Apply a bead of Canopy Glue around the inside edge of
the canopy. Position the canopy onto the fuselage. Use
tape to hold the canopy secure until the glue fully cures.
Step 7
Apply the decals. Use the photos on the box to aid
in their location.
Step 8
Cut a small hole in the upper edge of the fuselage big
enough to install the radio mast. Remove at least 1/4"
of covering from the mast, and then insert it into the
hole. Use medium CA to secure the mast into position.
Note: The mast is optional. If you know
the mast will get bumped in transport,
you can opt to leave it off your model.
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Section 6: Cowling Installation
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Cowling
• #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screw (4)
• Dummy radial engine
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Drill • Sandpaper
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 1/8" (3mm)
• Hobby scissors • 6-minute epoxy
• Phillips screwdriver (small) • Cardstock
• Felt-tipped pen • Rubbing alcohol
• Paper towel
• Rotary tool with sanding drum
Step 1
Locate the dummy radial engine. Use a sharp
hobby knife to trim the material between the
cylinders and bottom as shown. Leave the material
above the cylinders in tact for strength. Remove
the center area for the engine drive washer.
Step 2
Use a rotary tool to remove the openings in the
cowling to allow for air to flow to the engine.
Step 3
Use medium grit sandpaper to sand the inside of
the cowling where the dummy radial engine will be
positioned. Clean the inside of the cowling using a mild
detergent. This will remove the mold release and sanding
dust from inside the cowling.
Hint: The dummy radial engine can also be
painted at this time. Just remember to test
the paint on the pieces removed to make
sure the paint won’t attack the plastic.
Step 4
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the dummy radial engine
inside the cowl.
26
Page 27
Section 6: Cowling Installation
Step 5
Use a piece of cardstock to indicate the location of the
engine head, needle valve and cowl mounting blocks.
Hint: Remove the muffler at this
time and fit the cowl to it later.
Step 7
Remove the cowl and remove the necessary material
to fit the cowl over the engine. Install the engine back
onto the firewall and test fit the cowl over the engine.
Use a small amount of threadlock on the four bolts
to prevent them from loosening during flight.
Hint: Start by removing only a little
material at a time. Work until the
cowl fits nicely over the engine.
Step 8
Slide the cowling onto the fuselage. Position
the cowl so the engine drive washer is 1/8"
(3mm) in front of the dummy engine.
Step 6
Remove the engine. Position the cowl onto the fuselage
so it is 5
location for the engine and needle valve onto the cowl.
1
/2" (140mm) from the firewall. Transfer the
27
Page 28
Section 6: Cowling Installation
Step 9
Use the cardstock from Step 4 to locate the positions for
the cowling screws. The goal is to drill into the center of
the cowl mounting blocks for the four screws that hold the
cowling. Drill the locations using a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill bit.
Step 10
Enlarge the holes drilled in the cowling using a
1/8" (3mm) drill bit.
Step 11
Attach the cowl using four #2 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.
Hint: Apply several drops of CA into the screw
holes after threading the screws in a couple
of times. This will harden the wood and keep
the screws from loosening during flight.
Step 12
Attach the propeller to the engine. An A-Style Propeller
1
Nut: 1
/4" (TRUB1250A) and matching adapter for
the engine were used for the photos on the box.
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Section 7: Stabilizer Installation
Required Parts
• Assembled wing • Fuselage
• 1/4-20 blind nut (2) • 1/4" washer (2)
• Stabilizer
• 1/4-20 x 1
1
/2" socket head bolt (2)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 30-minute epoxy • Pliers
• Hex wrench: 3/16" • Hobby knife
• Felt-tipped pen • Ruler
• Paper towels • Mixing sticks
• Measuring cup • Epoxy brush
• Rubbing alcohol
Step 1
Locate the two 1/4-20 blind nuts. Mix a small
amount of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the
barbs of the blind nut. Use pliers to install the
blind nut from the inside of the fuselage.
Step 2
Use the two 1/4 x 1
washers to attach the wing to the fuselage.
1
/2" socket head bolts and 1/4"
Step 3
Measure the distance between a point centered at the
rear of the fuselage and each wing tip. The measurement
will be equal if the wing is aligned correctly. If the
measurement is not the same, slightly oval the hole for
the wing bolts until an equal measurement is achieved.
Hint: A short 1/4-20 bolt and fender
washer can also be used to draw
the blind nut up into position.
Note: Make sure no epoxy gets into
the threads of the blind nut.
AA
A=A
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1BSBMMFM
Section 7: Stabilizer Installation
Step 4
Slide the stab into the fuselage, making sure the
stabilizer is as far forward as possible. Center the
stab in the opening by measuring the distance
from the fuselage to each tip. The stab is aligned
when both measurements are identical.
BB
Hint: Place the elevators in position on the
stabilizer to help in centering the stabilizer. DO
NOT glue the hinges until instructed to do so.
Step 6
Check to make sure the wing and stabilizer are parallel.
If they are not, lightly sand the opening in the fuselage
for the stab until the stab is parallel to the wing.
B=B
Step 7
After verifying the alignment of the stabilizer, use a felttipped pen to trace the outline of the fuselage on the stab.
Step 5
Check the distance from each stab tip to
each wing tip. These measurements must
be equal for the stab to be aligned.
CC
C=C
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Section 7: Stabilizer Installation
Step 8
Remove the stab and use a hobby knife with a new blade
to remove the covering 1/16" (1.5mm) inside the lines
just drawn. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to
remove the lines once they are no longer needed.
Note: Use care not to cut into the underlying
wood and weaken the structure. Doing
so could cause the stab to fail in flight,
resulting in the loss of your airplane.
Step 9
Slide the stabilizer partially back into the slot. Mix
1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Apply epoxy to the top
and bottom of the exposed wood of the stabilizer. Slide the
stabilizer the rest of the way into the slot in the fuselage.
Double-check the alignment to verify it’s correct. Remove
any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before continuing.
Hint: Use a soldering iron or hot
knife as an alternative to a hobby
knife to melt the covering.
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Section 8: Installing the Elevators
Required Parts
• Elevator joiner wire • CA hinge (6)
• Fuselage assembly
• Elevator (left and right)
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • T-Pins
• 30-minute epoxy • Medium sandpaper
Step 1
Remove the covering from the slot in the elevator.
Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of
the hinges. Place the hinges into the elevator half.
Step 3
Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the
groove and hole in the elevator half. Insert the elevator
joiner wire. Press the elevator against the stabilizer so
that the hinge gap between the elevator and stabilizer is
roughly 1/64" (.4mm). Remove the T-pins and remove any
excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
Note: You can combine the previous step with
the following step if you like. This will hold
the elevator in position while the epoxy cures.
Step 4
Line up the tip of the elevator with the stabilizer tip.
Again, check to make sure the hinge gap between
the elevator and stabilizer is roughly 1/64" (.4mm).
Apply thin CA to both sides of the hinge. Make sure
to saturate the hinge and don’t use accelerator.
Step 2
Lightly sand the elevator joiner wire. Clean the wire
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Slide
the elevator joiner wire into position. Test fit the
elevator and stab together. The elevator joiner wire
will be inserted into the hole exposed in Step 1.
Step 5
Once the CA and epoxy have fully cured, gently pull on the
elevator and stab to make sure the hinges are well glued.
Flex the elevators a few times to break in the hinges.
Step 6
Repeat Steps 1 through 5 to install the remaining
elevator half.
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Section 9: Installing the Rudder
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Rudder
• CA hinge (3) • Tail wheel wire
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin CA • T-pins
• 30-minute epoxy • Medium sandpaper
• Hobby knife • Rubbing alcohol
• Hex wrench • Ruler
• Mixing sticks • Paper towel
Step 1
Remove the covering from the bottom of the fuselage and
behind the fin using a sharp hobby knife. Slide the tail
gear wire into position from the bottom of the fuselage.
Step 2
Push the tail wheel until the wheel collar is against the
bracket inside the fuselage. Measure 1
from the fuselage and mark the tail wheel wire. Position
the wire so the tail wheel will be parallel to the runway.
Make a 90-degree bend in the wire at the mark so the
wire will extend into the rudder. Cut the excess wire so
only 1" (25mm) extends past the rear edge of the fin.
3
/8" (35mm) up
Step 3
Remove the covering from the slot in the rudder.
Locate three CA hinges. Place a T-pin in the center of
the hinges. Place the hinges into the elevator half.
Step 4
Use medium sandpaper to roughen the portion of the
tail wheel wire that will be inserted in the rudder. Clean
the wire using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
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Section 9: Installing the Rudder
Step 5
Locate three CA hinges and place a T-pin in the center
of each hinge. Place the hinges into the rudder.
Step 6
Test fit the rudder to the fin and tail wheel wire. The
gap between the rudder and fin should be a maximum
of approximately 1/64" (.4mm). Check the movement
of the rudder to make sure it clears the fin.
Step 8
Check to make sure the rudder moves freely. Apply
thin CA to both sides of the hinges. Make sure to
saturate the hinge and don’t use accelerator.
Step 9
Once the CA and epoxy have fully cured, gently pull on
the fin and rudder to make sure the hinges are well glued.
Flex the rudder a few times to break in the hinges.
Step 10
Loosen the setscrew in the wheel collar and slide it
tightly against the bracket inside the fuselage. This
prevents loads from landing on the rudder hinges.
Step 7
Remove the rudder from the fin. Mix 1/2 ounce of
30-minute epoxy and apply it to the groove and hole
in the rudder. Insert the rudder control rod. Remove any
excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.
Note: You can combine the previous step with
the following step if you like. This will hold
the rudder in position while the epoxy cures.
Important: Do not let epoxy get into
the tail wheel wire support brackets.
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Section 10: Radio Installation
Required Parts
• Nylon clevis (2) • Nylon wire keeper (2)
• Nylon control horn (3) • 2-56 x 1/2" screw (6)
• Fuselage assembly • Servo w/hardware (3)
• Quick connector • Receiver
• Quick connector backplate • Receiver battery
• Pushrod wire (29
• 3mm setcrews • 1/4" (6mm) foam
• Switch harness
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 6-minute epoxy • Thin CA
• Felt-tipped pen • Hobby knife
• Ruler • Drill
• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm),
3/32" (2.5mm)
• Phillips screwdriver (small)
3
/4") (756mm) (2)
Step 1
Important: Apply 2–3 drops of thin
CA onto each servo screw to prevent
them from vibrating loose in flight.
Step 2
Use 6-minute epoxy to glue the servo tray inside
the fuselage. Make sure there is a good bond
between the formers and servo tray to prevent it
from coming loose during the life of the aircraft.
Wrap the receiver and receiver battery in foam.
Secure them to the radio tray using rubber
bands or hook and loop straps. Install the servo
hardware and install the servos into the servo
tray. Connect the servos to the receiver and the
extensions for the aileron and retract servos.
Step 3
Install a switch harness opposite the side of
the engine exhaust. Route the antenna through
the bottom of the fuselage and secure it to a
location at the tail with rubber bands.
Note: The receiver battery is located
under the servo tray. The tray shows
the four-stroke throttle servo location.
The empty opening is the servo location
for the two-stroke throttle servo.
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Section 10: Radio Installation
Step 4
Thread a clevis onto a 29
minimum of 10 turns.
3
/4" (756mm) pushrod wire a
Step 5
Remove the covering on the fuselage to expose the
end of the pushrod tube. Slide the pushrod into the
pre-installed pushrod tube inside the fuselage.
Step 6
Remove the back plate from a control horn using
side cutters or a sharp hobby knife. Position the
control horn on the rudder so the horn aligns
with the hinge line. Mark the position for the
mounting holes using a felt-tipped pen.
Step 7
Drill three 3/32" (2.5mm) holes through the rudder
at the locations marked in the previous step. Place
2–3 drops of thin CA into the hole to harden the
wood. Repeat this for each of the three holes.
Note: It may be difficult to locate the
pushrod tube. Slide the pushrod wire from
the inside of the fuselage and note where the
covering is displaced to locate the tube.
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Section 10: Radio Installation
Step 8
Attach the control horn using three 2-56 x 1/2" screws
and the control back plate.
Step 9
Center the rudder servo electronically using the radio
system. Install a servo arm onto the rudder servo. Attach
the pushrod with clevis to the control horn. Physically
place the rudder control surface in neutral. Mark the
pushrod where it crosses the holes in the servo arm.
Step 10
Bend the wire 90 degrees at the mark made in the
previous step. Cut the wire 3/8" (9.5mm) above the bend.
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Section 10: Radio Installation
Step 11
Drill out the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64"
(2mm) drill bit then slide the wire through the
outer hole in the rudder servo arm. Secure
the wire using a nylon wire keeper.
Step 12
Step 14
Center the throttle stick and trim with both the
receiver and transmitter on. Slide the throttle
pushrod through the connector and install the
throttle servo arm in the neutral position.
Step 15
Repeat Steps 4 through 11 for the elevator
pushrod installation.
Step 13
Use a 5/64" (2mm) drill bit to drill a hole in the throttle
servo arm. Attach a quick connector to the servo
arm using quick connector washers and retainers.
Move the servo to the throttle closed position using
the radio system. Manually move the throttle arm
on the carburetor to the closed position. Use a 3mm
setscrew to secure the throttle pushrod wire.
Step 16
Check the movement of the throttle to verify there
is no binding at either low or high throttle. If
there is, make the necessary adjustment using
the radio system to eliminate any binding. Install
the throttle servo arm screw when complete.
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Adjusting the Engine
Step 1
Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure.
Step 2
At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich
setting at full throttle and adjust the idle and lowspeed needle so that a consistent idle is achieved.
Control Throws
The amount of control throw should be adjusted as
closely as possible using mechanical means, rather
than making large changes electronically at the radio.
By moving the position of the clevis at the control
horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease
the amount of control throw of the control surface.
Moving it toward the control surface will increase the
amount of throw. Moving the pushrod wire at the servo
arm will have the opposite effect: Moving it closer to
center will decrease throw, and away from center will
increase throw. Work with a combination of the two to
achieve the closest or exact control throws listed.
Step 3
Before you fly, be sure that your engine idles
reliably, transitions and runs at all throttle
settings. Only when this is achieved should
any plane be considered ready for flight.
Aileron 9/16" (14mm) up 9/16" (14mm) down
Note: Aileron throw is measured at the
inboard trailing edge of the aileron.
Elevator 7/16" (11mm) up 1/2" (13mm) down
Note: Elevator throw is measured at the
inboard trailing edge of the elevator.
Rudder 1" (25mm) right 1" (25mm) left
Note: Rudder throw is measured
at the bottom of the rudder.
Once the control throws have been set, use the
supplied heat shrink tubing on each clevis to
prevent them from opening during flight.
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Recommended CG
An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight
is properly balancing the model. This is especially
important when various engines are mounted.
Caution: Do not inadvertently
skip this step!
The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for
the F6F Hellcat is 5
edge of the wing against the fuselage. Make sure the
gear is retracted when checking the CG, as the CG
will change depending on the gear position. Make
sure the aircraft is inverted when measuring the CG.
If necessary, move the battery pack or add weight to
either the nose or the tail until the correct balance
is achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your
local hobby store and work well for this purpose.
1
/4" (134mm) behind the leading
Preflight
Charge both the transmitter and receiver pack for your
airplane. Use the recommended charger supplied with
your particular radio system, following the instructions
provided with the radio. In most cases, the radio
should be charged the night before going out flying.
Range Testing the Radio
Before each flying session, range check your radio. This
is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the
antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. With
your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk
30 paces away from your airplane and still have complete
control of all functions. If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have
your radio equipment checked out by the manufacturer.
Check the radio installation and make sure all the control
surfaces are moving correctly (i.e. the correct direction and
with the recommended throws). Test run the engine and
make sure it transitions smoothly from idle to full throttle
and back. Also ensure the engine is tuned according
to the manufacturer's instructions, and it will run
consistently and constantly at full throttle when adjusted.
Check all the control horns, servo horns and
clevises to make sure they are secure and in good
condition. Replace any items that would be considered
questionable. Failure of any of these components
in flight would mean the loss of your aircraft.
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2006 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
GENERAL
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows or model flying demonstrations
until it has been proven to be airworthy by having
been previously, successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without
notifying the airport operator. I will give rightof-way and avoid flying in the proximity of fullscale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall
be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety
rules for the flying site I use, and I will not
willfully and deliberately fly my models in a
careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
4) The maximum takeoff weight of a
model is 55 pounds, except models flown
under Experimental Aircraft rules.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified
with my name and address or AMA number,
on or in the model. (This does not apply
to models while being flown indoors.)
6) I will not operate models with metalbladed propellers or with gaseous boosts, in
which gases other than air enter their internal
combustion engine(s); nor will I operate models
with extremely hazardous fuels such as those
containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any
device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile
of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets,
explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke
bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled
balloons), or ground mounted devices launching
a projectile. The only exceptions permitted are
rockets flown in accordance with the National Model
Rocketry Safety Code or those permanently attached
(as per JATO use); also those items authorized for
Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory
Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In
any case, models using rocket motors as a primary
means of propulsion are limited to a maximum
weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. (A
model aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or
without engine, not able to carry a human being.)
8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to,
nor during, participation in any model operations.
9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed
on the flight line as a pilot or while receiving
flight instruction.
RADIO CONTROL
1) I will have completed a successful radio
equipment ground range check before the
first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
of spectators until I become a qualified flier,
unless assisted by an experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s)
must be established in front of which all flying
takes place with the other side for spectators.
Only personnel involved with flying the aircraft
are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)
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2006 Official AMA
National Model Aircraft Safety Code
5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more
are considered safe from site-to site interference,
even when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference
test reports shall be signed by the parties involved
and provided to AMA Headquarters. Documents of
agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and
individual AMA members not associated with AMA
Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA members.
6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic
inch of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine
= 200 feet.); electric motors will be based on
equivalent combustion engine size. Additional
safety requirements will be per the RC Combat
section of the current Competition Regulations.
7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a
single straight line must be established, one side of
which is for flying, with the other side for spectators.
8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots
or helpers being used, no powered model may
be flown closer than 25 feet to any person.
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in flight.
Organized RC Racing Event
10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete
in flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.
A. In every organized racing event in which
contestants, callers and officials are on the course:
1. All officials, callers and contestants must
properly wear helmets, which are OSHA,
DOT, ANSI, SNELL or NOCSAE approved or
comparable standard while on the racecourse.
2. All officials will be off the course except
for the starter and their assistant.
3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond
the pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.
B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized
racing event which does not comply with paragraph
A above or which allows models over 20 pounds
unless that competition event is AMA sanctioned.
C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest
spectator (line) will be in accordance with the
current Competition Regulations under the
RC Pylon Racing section for the specific event
pending two or three pylon course layout.
11) RC night flying is limited to low-performance
models (less than 100 mph). The models must
be equipped with a lighting system that clearly
defines the aircraft’s attitude at all times.