Hangar 9 Extra 330S User Manual

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Specifications

Wingspan: .............. 97 in (2463.8mm)

Length: ................... 83 in (2108.2mm)

Wing Area: ............ 1750 sq in (112.9 sq dm)

Weight:................... 24.75–25.5 lb (11.2 kg–11.5 kg)

Radio: ..................... 4-channel w/9 servos

Engines: ................... 3.8–4.8 cu in

Extra 330S

TM

• Superior controllability and aerobatic flight characteristics

• Lightweight construction

• Designed by veteran TOC competitor Mike McConville

• 90% built 1/3-scale ARF

• Plug-in wings and stabilizers for easy transport and field assembly

®

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

2

Table of Contents

Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Using the Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Required Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Optional Hangar 9 1/3 Scale Hardware Package (HAN1220, JR/HAN1221, Futaba) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Servo Selection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Before Starting Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Warranty Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Section 1 – Aileron Servo Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Section 2 – Aileron Control Horn Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Section 4 – Sealing the Hinge Gaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Section 5 – Aileron Linkage Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Section 6 – Wing Tube Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Section 7 – Rudder and Elevator Servo Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Section 10 – Landing Gear Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Section 11 – Wheel Pant Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Section 12 – Tail Wheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Section 13 – Receiver, Battery and Fuel Tank Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Section 15 – Hatch Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Section 16 – Balancing the Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Section 18 – Control Throws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Section 17 – Radio Setup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Preflight at the Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Setup and Flying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

Extra 330S–3D at its Best . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

2003 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Using the Manual

This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand and to provide breaks between
each major section. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.

3

Contents of Kit

Large Parts

A. Fuselage w/Hatch HAN1176
B. Right Wing Panel w/Aileron HAN1177
C. Left Wing Panel w/Aileron HAN1178
D. Right Stabilizer w/Elevator HAN1179
E. Left Stabilizer w/Elevator HAN1180
F. Rudder HAN1181
G. Canopy HAN1182
H. Painted Cowl HAN1184
I. Aluminum Landing Gear HAN1185

Additional Required Equipment

Radio Equipment

• 4-channel radio system (minimum)

• 1 standard servo for throttle (JRPS537
recommended or equivalent)

• 8 hi-torque servos (JRPS8411
recommended or equivalent)

Recommended JR™ Systems

• PCM10X

• XP8103

• X-378

• XP662

• XF631

• XF421

• Quattro

Recommended Engines

•G-62, GT-80

JR XP8103

JR PCM 10X

Zenoah®GT-80

ZENE80T

Zenoah®G62

ZENE62A

A

B

C

D

E

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit)

• Propeller (consult engine instructions)

• 12" Servo Extension (JRPA098)

• 18" Servo Extensions (JRPA099) (4)

• 24" Servo Extensions (JRPA102) (5)

• 1/8" light plywood

• Y-Harness (JRPA133) (2)

• MatchBox™ (JRPA900) (4)

F

G

H

I

Items not shown:

Canopy Hatch HAN1183
Landing Gear Fairing HAN1186
Decal Set HAN1187

4

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives

Tools

• 4-40 tap

• 8-32 tap

• Adjustable wrench (small)

• Canopy scissors

• Drill (drill press preferred)

• Drill bit: 1/16", 3/32", 7/32", 1/4", #43, 1/2",
5/32", 9/64"

• Drum sander

• Cut-off wheel

• Velcro straps

• Flat blade screwdriver w/short handle

• Foam: 1/2"

• Hex wrench: 3/32"

• Hobby knife

• Masking tape

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

• Pliers

• Ruler

• Sandpaper

• Scissors

• Square

• Syringe

• Tap handle

• Toothpicks

Adhesives

• 6-minute epoxy

• 30-minute epoxy

• Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue

• CA remover/debonder

• Pacer Z-42 Threadlock

• Formula 560-canopy glue

• Shoo Goo

• Masking tape (3M blue recommended)

Other Required Items

• Epoxy brushes

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• File

• Measuring device (e.g. ruler, tape measure)

• Mixing sticks for epoxy

• Paper towels

• Petroleum jelly

• Rubbing alcohol

• Sanding bar

• Sandpaper (coarse)

• Clear UltraCote® (HANU964)

• Covering Iron (HAN101)

• Dental floss or string

Optional Hangar 9®1/3 Scale Hardware Package

(HAN1220, JR/HAN1221, Futaba)

• Tail Wheel Assembly with Hardware (OHI130)

• 4-40 1/2 3D arm (11/4") Futaba (2) (HAN3579)

• 4-40 Ball Links (7) (ROC87)

• 4-40 1/2 HD Arm (1") Futaba (4) (HAN3575)

• 8-32 Swivel Control Horns (6) (ROC01B)

• 4-40 Solder Link (2) (DUB305)

• 4-40 Rod, Threaded one end (6) (DUB802)

• 3/16" Wheel Collars (2) (DUB141)

• 31/2" Wheels (2) (DUB350L)

• 3/16" Main Axles (DUB249)

• 4

1

/2" 4-40 Threaded Pro-Links (2) (HAN3556)

• Super Hinge Points (24) (ROB309)

• 5" 4-40 Threaded Pro-Links (2) (HAN3557)

• 4-40 1/2 3D Arm (11/4") JR (4) (HAN3578)

• 32 oz Fuel Tank (DUB690)

• 4-40 1/2 HD Arm (1") JR (4) (HAN3574)

5

Before Starting Assembly

Before beginning the assembly of the Extra 330S, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect
the fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact
the place of purchase.

If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or covering iron to remove them. Use caution while
working around areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.

Warranty Information

Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall Horizon
Hobby's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Horizon Hobby has no control over the final assembly or material used for the final assembly, no liability
shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

Once assembly of the model has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly regarding any
warranty question that you have. Please do not contact your local hobby shop regarding warranty issues, even if
that is where you purchased it. This will enable Horizon to better answer your questions and service you in the
event that you may need any assistance.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Horizon Hobby

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

[phone]

www.horizonhobby.com

Warning

An RC aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in
open areas, preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions
included with your radio and engine.

Servo Selection

The servos used for the control surfaces of the Extra 330S must have a minimum of 80 ounce inch of servo
torque. In the prototype Extras, we used JR8411 servos.

6

Section 1 – Aileron Servo Installation

Required Parts

• Wing panel (right and left)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

• Drill bit: 1/16"

• Drill

• 12" Servo Extension (JRPA098)

• 24" Servo Extension (JRPA102)

Step 1

Install the servo hardware (grommets and eyelets)
included with the servo.

Step 2

Plug a 12" and a 24" servo extension onto two of
the servos. Either tie the servo leads together, using
a commercially available connector, or use unwaxed
dental floss to secure the extensions to prevent them
from coming loose during flight.

Step 3

Tie a weight to a piece of string. A wheel collar works
great in this application. Lower the string into the
wing from the aileron servo opening. Let the weight
drop out through the wing root for the servo.

Section 1 – Aileron Servo Installation

7

Step 4

Insert the servo with the 24" extension towards the
tip of the wing. Use the string to pull the servo lead
through the wing. Position the servo so the output
shaft is towards the trailing edge of the wing. Use
a 1/16” drill bit to drill the locations for the servo
screws. Mount the servos using the hardware
provided with the servos.

Step 5

Repeat Steps 3 and 4 for the servo near the root of
the wing panel.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the remaining
wing panel.

Photo for Step 4

Photo for Step 4

8

Section 2 – Aileron Control Horn Installation

Required Parts

• Wing panel (left and right)

• Aileron (left and right)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Felt-tipped pen • Drill bit: 5/32"

• 8-32 tap • Tap handle

• Square • Ruler

• 30-minute epoxy • Rubbing alcohol

• Drill (drill press preferred)

• 8-32 x 2" Hangar 9

®

control horn screw (4)

(Included in HAN1220 (JR™) or HAN1221 (FUT))

• Hangar 9 control horn A-nut (4) (Included in
HAN1220 (JR™) or HAN1221 (FUT))

Step 1

Tape the aileron to the wing. Make a mark 1/2"
away from the edge of the servo towards the tip
of the wing. Using a square held in alignment (90°)
with the mark and with the trailing edge, mark the
aileron with a pen where the straight edge intersects
the aileron hinge bevel.

Step 2

Measure exactly 3

3

/8" forward from the trailing edge
of the aileron and make another mark using a felt­tipped pen. The intersection of the line from Step 1
and this line will be the position for the control horn.

Step 3

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the second control
horn location.

Step 4

Remove the ailerons from the wing. Use rubbing
alcohol to remove any tape residue.

Step 5

Using a 5/32" drill bit and drill press, carefully drill
through the aileron at the marked position. Be
especially careful when penetrating through the top
surface of the aileron, as it’s easy to split out the
wood and rip the covering. Placing a wooden block
under the aileron and drilling slowly will prevent
these problems. If you choose to use the counter
sink screws included in the Hangar 9® Hardware
Package, counter sink the top of the aileron to allow
the screws to fit flush.

Section 2 – Aileron Control Horn Installation

9

Note: A hardwood block (hard point) is
located below the sheeting; you will be drilling
through this. Make sure to drill the hole
perpendicular to the top of the aileron.
It is highly recommended to use a drill press
to achieve this.

Step 6

Using an 8-32 tap, tap the hole just drilled
in the aileron.

Step 7

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly
coat the inside of the tapped hole and the 8-32 x 2"
Hangar 9 control horn screw. From the top of the
aileron, screw the 8-32 x 2" into the tapped hole and
securely tighten. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Screw the A-nut
in place as shown. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.

Step 8

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw
until the distance from the aileron surface to the
top of the link is 1

1

/8".

Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the remaining aileron.

Photo for Step 6

Photo for Step 5

Photo for Step 5

Drill

Work Surface

10

Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the

Control Surfaces

Required Parts

• Wing panel (right and left)

• Aileron (left and right)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 30-minute epoxy • Syringe

• Sandpaper (coarse) • Toothpicks

• Robart hingepoints

Properly hinging the control surfaces on giant-scale
models is vitally important! Poorly installed hinges
affect the model’s precision and control response and
can also be dangerous. Each and every hinge needs
to be securely bonded in place in both the flying
surface and the control surface. The hinge pivot
points need to be exactly parallel to each other and
precisely located on the center of the hinge line. We
regularly use Robart Super Hinge Points in all giant­scale aircraft. They are easy to install, very strong,
and offer smooth friction-free control. The
Hangar 9

®

Extra 330S control surfaces are predrilled

to use Robart’s Super Hinge Points.

Step 1

Sand each end of the hinge point hinge using
coarse sandpaper. This will improve the bond of
the epoxy to the hinge.

Step 2

Mix 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using a glue
syringe or toothpick, place a sufficient amount of
30-minute epoxy into one of the hinge pockets in the
aileron leading edge. Install one of the hinge points
until the hinge pin center is flush with the leading
edge of the aileron. Some epoxy should ooze out of
the pocket as the hinge is installed. If not, remove the
hinge and apply more epoxy. After gluing a few
hinges, you’ll get the hang of just how much epoxy is
needed. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing
alcohol. Recheck that the center of the hinge pin is
flush and parallel with the leading edge. Continue
installing hinges in the leading edge of the aileron.
The control surfaces (ailerons) will be installed after
the epoxy is fully cured.

Note: Be sure that the hinge pivot pins are
parallel and flush to the aileron leading edge.
It’s important to frequently mix a fresh batch
of 30-minute epoxy in order to achieve good
glue joint penetration. If you notice the epoxy
becoming thicker, then mix a new batch!

Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces

11

Step 3

Allow the epoxy to fully cure for at least 6 hours.
When cured, work each hinge throughout its full
motion several times using your hands. This will
break free any epoxy that may have found its way into
the hinge joint. Move the hinge throughout its full
travel until no resistance is felt. This may take as
many as 40 or 50 times.

Step 4

Mix 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using a syringe or
toothpick, place a sufficient amount of epoxy in each
of the hinge pockets in one wing panel.

Step 5

Carefully attach the aileron to the wing, making sure
the hinges are inserted in their respective hinge
pockets. Press the aileron and wing together such
that less than a 1/64" hinge line gap exists between
the aileron and wing. The bevels should virtually
touch. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to wipe
away any visible epoxy around the hinges.

Step 6

Double-check the hinge gap and allow the epoxy
to fully cure for at least 6 hours. Now is a good
time to repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the remaining
wing panel and aileron.

12

Section 3 – Hinging and Sealing the Control Surfaces

Step 7

When fully cured, move each control surface
throughout its travel range several times to
break away any epoxy in the hinge. Be sure to
deflect the surface fully.

Section 4 – Sealing the Hinge Gaps

Step 1

Cut a piece of Clear UltraCote (not included) for
sealing the ailerons to approximately 3" x 42". Fold
the UltraCote down the center with the adhesive side
to the outside making a sharp crease at the fold.

Required Parts

• Wing panel (right and left)

• Aileron (left and right)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Straight edge/ruler • Felt-tipped pen

• Scissors • Hobby knife w/#11 blade

• Clear UltraCote® (HANU964)

• Covering Iron (HAN101)

It’s imperative that the aileron and elevator hinge
lines be sealed airtight to prevent flutter. Sealing the
hinge line has several advantages. A sealed hinge
line gives a greater control response for a given
control deflection. It also offers more precise,
consistent control response and makes trimming
easier. Sealing the aileron and elevator hinge line is
mandatory. Failure to do so may cause control
surface flutter, resulting in a crash.

Section 4 – Sealing the Hinge Gaps

13

Step 2

Using a ruler, measure 1/2" from the folded crease
and mark two places with a felt-tipped pen.

Step 3

Using a sharp #11 blade and a straight edge,
carefully cut through both layers of UltraCote

®

covering at the 1/2" point marked in Step 2.

Step 4

Mark and cut the folded covering to an overall length
of 40". This piece will be inserted and ironed down
into the hinge bevel on the bottom of the aileron.

Step 5

Remove the backing from the UltraCote. Place
the folded crease side into the center of the hinge
line on the bottom of the wing. Using a straight edge
as shown, hold one side of the covering in place
while ironing down the opposite side with a sealing
iron. We recommend setting the iron temperature to
320° for this procedure.

Step 6

Fully deflect the aileron in the up position. Place the
straight edge over the hinge line covering that you
just ironed down in Step 5 with the edge of the
straight edge placed firmly at the bottom of the hinge
line as shown. Iron down this side of the covering,
making sure the aileron is fully deflected.

14

Section 5 – Aileron Linkage Installation

Required Parts

• Aluminum servo arms (4)

• Control horn ball ends (4)

• 4

1

/2" 4-40 linkage (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

• Threadlock

MatchBox Option: To simplify the installation of
the aileron servo linkages, you may want to use the
JR™ MatchBox™ servo matching/power system
(JRPA900). Four MatchBoxes would be used in this
application—one for each wing panel, one for the
rudder and one for the elevator servo configuration.
The MatchBox allows easy adjustment of the servo’s
center and endpoints, making radio setup a snap.
You can also use a separate battery to run the
Matchbox, reducing the load on the flight battery
powering the receiver.

Step 1

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto each end of
a 4

1

/2" long 4-40 linkage. Adjust the linkage length
until the hole in the ball link aligns with the outer
hole in the servo arm when the aileron is neutral
and the servo arm is centered.

Note: Hangar 9®Titanium Pro-Links feature
right-hand threads on one end and left- hand
threads on the other, allowing for easy,
accurate adjustment without disconnecting
the linkages. Consistently putting the right­hand threads toward the servo arms on all
servos will prevent you from getting confused
as to which way to turn the linkage to lengthen
or shorten the link. Hangar 9 also offers a
Pro-Link™ Wrench (HAN3558) to make
adjustments easier.

Step 2

Using the 4-40 screws (don’t substitute a standard
screw) and nuts included in the Hangar 9 package,
attach the ball link to the outer hole in the arm from
the bottom side as shown. The sequence is screw,
tapered standoff, ball link, servo arm and nut. Don’t
forget to use threadlock.

Step 3

Attach the servo horn to the servo using the screw
provided with the servo.

Section 5 – Aileron Linkage Installation

15

Step 4

Attach the linkage to the servo horn on the aileron.
Adjust the link so the aileron is centered at the same
time as the servo.

Step 5

Repeat Steps 1 through 4 for the second servo.

Step 6

Repeat Steps 1 through 5 for the remaining servos in
the opposite wing panel.

Photo for Step 4

16

Section 6 – Wing Tube Installation

Required Parts

• Wing panels • Fuselage

• Wing tube

• 1/4-20 x 2" nylon bolts (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Flat screwdriver w/short handle

• Thick CA

• Sandpaper (medium)

Step 1

Be sure the anti-rotation pins are secure in the
wing halves before installing the wings. If they are
not, remove the pin and lightly san the pins using
medium grit sandpaper. Apply a small amount of
thick CA into the tube socket and reinstall the
pin.Locate the wing tube and carefully slide it into
one wing panel. Slide the wing (with tube) into
the wing tube opening in the fuselage. Make sure
the wing panel anti-rotation pins slide into the
holes provided in the fuselage.

Note: It may be necessary to slightly enlarge
the holes in the fuselage for the anti-rotation
pins using a small round file.

Step 2

Carefully slide the remaining wing panel onto the
wing tube that projects from the fuselage. The fit
may be tight; use caution when inserting the wing
panels onto the wing tube and fuselage.

Step 3

Secure the wing panels using the 1/4-20 x 2"
nylon wing bolts.

Section 7 – Rudder and Elevator Servo Installation

17

Required Parts

• Fuselage

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 1/16"

• 24" Servo Extensions (JRPA102) (4)
or

• 18" Servo Extensions (JRPA099) (4)

• Y-Harness (JRPA133) (2)

• Dental floss or string

The rudder and elevators require a minimum of 80
ounce inch of servo torque. In the prototype
Extras we used JR8101s and JR8411 servos with
excellent results. Using servos with less torque
could cause a crash.

Computer Radio

Step 1

If using a 7-channel or greater computer radio with
mixing (highly recommended) or JR™ MatchBoxes,
install four 24" servo extensions, one on each servo.
Either tie the servo leads together, using a
commercially available connector, or use unwaxed
dental floss to secure the extensions to prevent them
from coming loose during flight. Also install the
servo hardware (grommets and eyelets) at this time.

Non-Computer Radio

Step 1

If using a non-computer radio, install four 18" servo
extensions, one on each servo. Either tie the servo
leads together, using a commercially available
connector, or use unwaxed dental floss to secure the
extensions to prevent them from coming loose
during flight. Install one side only of the two Y­harnesses to two of the servos, also tying knots to
prevent disconnection. The other two servos will be
hooked up to the Y-harness when installed in the
airplane. One elevator servo will need to be a
reversed-direction servo.

Step 2

Install the servos in the fuselage tail section with the
output shaft to the rear as shown in the photo. If
using a non-computer radio, be sure to install one of
the servos with the Y-harness attached in the top
opening (elevator) and the other servo with the Y­harness attached in the bottom opening (rudder).
Install the other servos in the opposite side of the
fuselage, being sure to connect the servo to the other
open connector of the respective Y-harnesses.

Step 3

Using the screws included with the servos, fasten the
servos in place. You may find it helpful to drill a
1/16" pilot hole before installing the screws.

18

Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Short stabilizer tube

• Long stabilizer tube

• Stabilizer half (left and right)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 4-40 tap • Drill

• #4 lock washer (2) • Clear UltraCote®

• Drill bit: #43 or 3/32" (for 4-40 tap)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head bolt (2)

• Aluminum servo arms (2)

• Control horn ball ends (2)

• 4

1

/2" 4-40 linkage (2)

The technique for installing the control horns in
the elevators is similar to the aileron control
horn installation.

Step 1

To properly locate the position of the control horn
on the bottom of the elevator, measure inward 1"
from the root and rearward 1/4" from the top of
the bevel. Mark this position on both elevators.

Step 2

Using a 5/32" drill bit and drill press, carefully drill
through the elevators at the above marked position.
It’s important to drill 90°to the top of the elevator.
Be especially careful when penetrating through the
bottom surface of the elevator, as it’s easy to split
out the wood and rip the covering. Placing a wooden
block under the elevator and drilling slowly will
prevent these problems. If you choose to use the
counter sink screws included, counter sink the
top of the elevator to allow the screws to fit flush.

Step 3

Using an 8-32 tap, thread the holes just drilled
in the elevators.

Step 4

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly
coat the inside of the threaded holes and the
8-32 x 2" Hangar 9

®

screw. From the top of the
elevator, thread the 8-32 screws into the tapped
holes and tighten. Wipe away any excess epoxy
with rubbing alcohol and paper towels.

Step 5

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw
until the distance from the elevator surface to
the bottom of the link is 1

1

/16". Repeat this for

the other elevator.

Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation

19

Step 6

Cut off the first section of two of the hinges. This is
done to clear the tube installed in the elevator.

Step 7

Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same
techniques used to hinge the ailerons. The shortened
hinges will be installed into the stabilizer towards the
root. After hinging the elevator, use the same
technique to seal the elevator’s hinge gaps. Use Clear
UltraCote® for the bottom of the elevator.

Step 8

Insert the longer tube into the aft hole in the fuselage.
Measure the distance of the exposed tube and adjust
until both side are equal.

Step 9

Mark the tube on both side of the fuselage using a
felt-tipped pen.

20

Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation

Step 10

Remove the tube and install it into one stabilizer half­way up to the first line on the tube. Drill through the
hole into the stabilizer and tap for a 4-40 bolt. Install
the bolt to secure the tube in the stabilizer.

Step 11

Install the shorter tube into the stabilizer half with
the secured tube. Slide the assembly into the
fuselage. Slide the remaining stab half onto the tubes
and drill and tap the location for the 4-40 retaining
bolt. Install the bolt to complete the procedure.

Step 12

Remove the stock servo arms from the elevator
servos and replace them with heavy-duty 1" arms.
The arms need to face down as shown. Be sure to
use a drop of threadlock on the servo arm screw if
using metal-geared servos.

Section 8 – Elevator Linkage Installation

21

Step 13

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto a 4

1

/2" long
4-40 linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage
into the swivel control horn on the elevator. Adjust
the linkage length until the hole in the ball link lines
up with the outer hole in the servo arm when the
elevator is neutral and the servo arm is centered.

Step 14

Using the 4-40 screws and nuts included in the
Hangar 9

®

package, attach the ball link to the outer
hole in the arm. The correct sequence is 4-40 screw,
ball link, standoff, servo arm and 4-40 nut. Be sure
to use threadlock.

Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation

Required Parts

• Rudder • Fuselage assembly

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 8-32 tap • Drill Bit: 5/32"

• Drill • Tap handle

• Thick CA • Rotary tool

• Cut-off wheel • Ruler

• 4-40 linkage
Note: The elevators have been removed for

clarity.

Step 1

Mark the position for the rudder control horn with
a pen. The correct location is 1" up from the bottom
of the rudder and 1/4" rearward from the edge of
the rudder bevel.

22

Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation

Step 2

Using a 5/32" drill bit and drill press, carefully drill
a 5/32" hole through the rudder perpendicular (90°)
to the rudder centerline at the marked position. Be
especially careful when penetrating through the
backside of the rudder.

Step 3

Using an 8-32 tap, thread the hole that you just
drilled in the rudder.

Step 4

Use a rotary tool and cut-off wheel to remove the
head of the 4" bolt.

Step 5

Measure and mark the center of the bolt.

Step 6

Measure the width of the rudder. Divide the
measurement by 2 and make marks on either side
of the center mark the distance calculated.

Step 7

Apply a few drops of thick CA on the bolt at the
center. This will secure the bolt and prevent it
from loosening during flight. Install the bolt using
the lines drawn in the previous step to center the
bolt in the rudder.

Step 8

Thread an A-nut (included with swivel clevis) onto
each side of the threaded rod and securely tighten
against the rudder.

Section 9 – Rudder Linkage Installation

23

Step 9

Screw a molded swivel link onto each side of the
8-32 threaded rod so the top of the link is 1

1

/4" from

the surface of the rudder.

Step 10

Hinge the rudder using the same technique as with
the aileron and elevator.

Step 11

Remove the stock servo arms and replace them with
heavy-duty 1

1

/4" arms. The arms need to be

positioned as shown.

Step 12

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto a 5" long
4-40 linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage
into the swivel control horn that was installed in
Section 6. Adjust the length until the hole in the ball
link lines up with the outer hole in the servo arm
when the rudder is at neutral and the arm is centered.

Step 13

Using the 4-40 screws and nuts included in the
Hangar 9® package, attach the ball link to the outer
hole in the arm. The correct sequence is 4-40 screw,
ball link, standoff, servo arm and 4-40 nut. Be sure
to use threadlock.

Step 14

Repeat Step 9 through Step 13 for the other
rudder servo.

24

Section 10 – Landing Gear Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Landing gear fairing

• 10-32 x 1" socket head bolt (4)

• 10-32 nylon lock nut (4)

• #10 lock washer (4)

• 1/4-20 x 2” nylon bolt

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hobby knife • 5/32" hex wrench

• Adjustable wrench (small)

Step 1

Install the axles in the landing gear. Secure the
axles using an adjustable wrench and the nuts
provided with the axles.

Step 2

Install the landing gear using four 10-32 x 1" socket
head bolts, four #10 lock washers and four
10-32 nylon lock nuts. (The lock nuts are placed
inside the fuselage.)

Step 3

Press the landing gear fairing into position to transfer
the location of the bolt heads into the foam. Use a
hobby knife to remove the foam to provide clearance
for the heads of the bolts.

Step 4

Attach the landing gear fairing using a 1/4-20 x 2"
nylon bolt.

Section 11 – Wheel Pant Installation

25

Required Parts

• Wheel (2) • 3/16" wheel collar (4)

• #4 washer (2) • #4 lock washer (2)

• Fuselage w/landing gear

• Wheel pant (left and right)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 1/2" and 9/64"

• Felt-tipped pen • Square

• Ruler

Step 1

Center a wheel in the opening of the wheel pant. Use
a felt-tipped pen to mark the location of the hole for
the axle on the pant. Make sure you are marking the
side that has the plywood reinforcement.

Step 2

Place the pant on a flat surface and use a square to
draw a 1

1

/2" line through the mark made in the
previous step. Mark the wheel pant 3/4” from the
surface for the location of the axle.

Step 3

Use a rotary tool or drill to make a 1/2" hole at the
location made in the last step.

Note: When using drill bits, it is best to start
small and work up to the larger size bit.

Step 4

Fit the pants over the axle on the landing gear. Align
the line made in Step 2 with the hole directly above
the axle. Use a felt-tipped pen to transfer the location
of the hole onto the pant.

26

Section 11 – Wheel Pant Installation

Step 5

Remove the pant and use a 9/64" drill bit to drill the
location marked in the previous step.

Step 6

Install a 4-40 blind nut into the hole from the inside
of the pant. The nut will be drawn into the plywood
later in this section.

Step 7

Install the following items onto the axle: wheel pant,
3/16" wheel collar, wheel then another 3/16" wheel
collar. It will be necessary to fit the parts inside the
wheel pant and slide them onto the axle.

Note: It may be necessary to drill the hole in
the wheel to fit onto the axle.

Step 7

Secure the pant in place using a 4-40 x 1/2" socket
head screw, #4 lock washer, and #4 washer. Use
threadlock on the screw to prevent it from coming
loose in flight.

Step 8

Center the wheel in the wheel pant and tighten the
collars to prevent the wheel from moving side to
side. Use threadlock on both set screws.

Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the remaining
wheel pant.

Section 12 – Tail Wheel Installation

27

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Tail wheel assembly

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Drill bit: 3/32"

• #6 x 3/4" screw (2) (not included)

• Felt-tipped pen

Step 1

Assemble the tail wheel per the instructions included
with the tail wheel assembly. The nylon control horns
included with the tail wheel assembly are not used.

Step 2

Position the tail wheel in place as shown, centered
on the rear of the fuselage. Using a felt-tipped pen,
mark the positions for the mounting screws through
the tail wheel bracket.

Step 3

Remove the bracket and drill 3/32" pilot holes at the
previously marked positions.

Step 4

Use two #6 x 3/4" sheet metal screws to secure the
tail wheel bracket in place. A hardwood plate is
positioned in the rear of the fuselage, allowing these
screws to be firmly tightened.

Hint: Remove the #6 x 3/4" screws and wick
thin CA into the holes to strengthen the
threads. When dry, reinstall the screws.

Step 5

Using the provided spring, hook up the tiller arm
to the rudder per the instructions included with
the tail wheel.

28

Section 13 – Receiver, Battery and Fuel Tank

Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 1/8" light plywood • Velcro straps

• 6-minute epoxy

Step 1

Remove the hatch to allow access to the interior of
the fuselage. Use the included templates on the back
cover of the manual to cut out the receiver and
battery trays from 1/8" light plywood (not included).

Step 2

Using 6-minute epoxy, fasten the receiver mount in
place as shown.

Step 3

Use foam and rubber bands (or Velcro® straps) to
secure the receiver to the battery tray.

Note: We have also mounted MatchBoxes
for the rudder and elevator servos next
to the receiver.

Step 4

If using the Zenoah® GT80, it will be necessary to
mount the battery pack slightly near the wing’s
trailing edge to properly balance the model. The
lighter weight Zenoah G62 requires that the battery
be mounted in the nose.

Step 5

Wrap the receiver battery in foam and use rubber
bands or Velcro straps to secure the battery to the
battery tray. Use 6-minute epoxy to attach the battery
tray in the fuselage in the correct location for your
engine selection.

Section 13 – Receiver, Battery and Fuel Tank Installation

29

Step 6

Assemble the tank per the instructions included with
the tank. Be sure to use the gas-compatible stopper
and fuel tubing.

Step 7

Place foam on the floor of the tank compartment.
Secure the tank in place by wrapping rubber bands
or Velcro straps around the tank and tank floor. Cup
hooks can be used to hook the rubber bands to the
tank floor. Later we will run the fuel lines.

Step 8

Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location in
the side of the fuselage.

30

Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly • Engine

• 1/4" lock washer (4) • 4-40 Ball Links

• Fuel Filler (HAN115) • 1/8" plywood

• Kill Switch (ZEN20000)

• 4-40 x 12" threaded rod (2)

• Engine mounting adapter plate (G62 only)

• 1/4-20 x 1

1

/2" socket head cap screw (4) (G62)

• Cup engine Mount (B&B6202) (G62)

• 1/4-20 x 1/2" socket head cap screw (4) (GT80)

• 2' Gas-Compatible Fuel Tubing (DUB800)

• 18" Servo Extension (JRPA099)

• 6" 4-40 Threaded Rod (DUB802)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Rotary tool • Cut-off wheel

• Drum sander • Drill

• Drill bit: 1/16" • Hobby knife w/#11 blade

• Phillips screwdriver

The Hangar 9

®

Extra 330S accepts gas engines
ranging from 60 through 80cc. The prototype Extras
were flown using Zenoah®G62s and Zenoah GT80s.
The G62 offers good sport performance and is a
good choice for doing all IMAC basic and sportsman
maneuvers. While the G62-equipped Extra doesn’t
quite provide unlimited vertical performance, most
experienced sport flyers find that the G62 offers
plenty of power for all but the most aggressive
types of aerobatics.

If you’re a 3D fanatic or an Advanced or Unlimited
IMAC class competitor, Zenoah’s GT80 offers power
for vertical multiple snaps, hovers and torque rolls.

GT80 Installation

Step 1

Fit the engine to the firewall using four
1/4-20 x 1/2” socket head screws, split washers
and blind nuts provided.

Step 2

The GT80 throttle servo is positioned as shown in
the top of the engine box. Cut the opening for the
throttle servo in the top of the engine box. The servo
is located 2

5

/8" from the left side and centered in the
top of the engine box. Mount the servo using the
hardware supplied with the servo.

Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl

31

Step 3

Make up the throttle linkage using a 4-40 rod and
two ball links. Carefully tap the throttle arm of the
carburetor with a 4-40 tap and connect the ball link
to the throttle arm. Use the remaining ball end to
attach the linkage to the servo arm.

Step 4

Attach a 4-40 rod with a ball link to the choke lever.
Route the linkage to the bottom of the fuselage
where it can be easily accessed during the starting
of the engine.

G62 Installation

Step 1

Remove the metal engine mount (if attached) from
the G62. Attach the B+B Cup engine mount. Attach
the cup mount to the adapter plate using the
hardware supplied with the cup mount.

Step 2

Install the adapter plate and engine to the firewall
using 1/4-20 x 1

1

/2" socket head screws (not

included), split washers and blind nuts.

32

Section 14 – Mounting the Engine and Cowl

Step 3

Mount the throttle servo on the bottom of the engine
box 3/4" back from the front edge of the box. Use the
hardware supplied with the servo to attach the servo
to the engine box.

Step 4

Use a 4-40 threaded rod and two clevises to make a
throttle pushrod of the appropriate length. Make any
necessary bends in the linkage to prevent binding
during operation.

Step 5

Attach a 4-40 rod with a ball link to the choke lever.
Route the linkage to the bottom of the fuselage
where it can be easily accessed during the starting
of the engine.

Completing the Engine Installation

Step 1

Run the fuel lines from the pick up in the tank to
the carburetor and run the vent line out the bottom of
the firewall. We recommend using a fuel filter and a
kill switch mounted on the fuselage for convenient
fueling and safety.

Step 2

Use a rotary tool with a cut-off wheel and drum
sander to cut out a large air outlet at the aft edge of
the cowling. Also make any necessary cutouts for
items such as mufflers, carburetors, linkages, etc.

Step 3

Mount the cowl using five 4-40 x 3/4" socket head
screws and #4 washers. Use a small piece of fuel
tubing between the cowl and washer to prevent the
screws from vibrating loose during flight. Mount the
propeller and spinner to complete the procedure.

Section 15 – Hatch Assembly

33

Required Parts

• Hatch • Canopy

• 4-40 x 1/2" screw (4) • #4 washer (4)

• Decals • 1/3-scale pilot

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hex wrench: 3/32" • Formula 560-canopy glue

• Shoo Goo • Masking tape

Step 1

The Extra hatch comes pre-installed on the
fuselage and is held on with four 4-40 socket head
cap screws. Remove these and lift the hatch from
the fuselage.

Step 2

Cut out the instrument panel decal from the decal
sheet. Attach it to the hatch as shown.

Step 3

Install a 1/3-scale pilot figure to the hatch using
Shoo Goo or similar adhesive that will remain
flexible. Let the glue dry before securing the
canopy in place.

Step 4

Position the canopy onto the canopy hatch. Trace
around the canopy and onto the hatch using a
felt-tipped pen.

34

Step 5

Lightly sand the inside edge of the canopy and
slightly inside the line drawn on the hatch using
medium sandpaper.

Step 6

Apply a bead of RCZ56 Canopy Glue (ZINJ5007)
around the inside edge of the canopy. Position the
canopy onto the hatch. Use tape to hold the canopy
secure until the glue fully cures.

Step 7

Apply the decals using the photos on the box
as a guide.

Section 16 – Balancing the Model

Correctly balancing an aerobatic model is critical to
its performance and flight characteristics. Checking
the balance on giant-scale models is best done with
two people.

Step 1

On the top of the wing tips, measure back 4

1

/2" and
53/4" from the leading edge and mark both places
with a felt-tipped pen. This is the recommended
center of gravity (CG) range.

Step 2

Fully assemble the model. With a helper, lift the
airplane with your index fingers to find the balance
point. The balance point (CG) should lie between
the two marks on the wing tip. If not, add the
necessary weight to the nose or tail to obtain
the correct balance.

Section 17 – Radio Setup

35

A 7-channel or greater computer radio is highly
recommended. This allows the following features:

• Mixing the right aileron to the left aileron

(flaperon mix)

• Electronically adjustable aileron differential

• Mixing the right elevator to the left elevator (dual

elevator mixing)

• Independent travel and trim adjustments of each

elevator half

• Mixing the right rudder servo to the left rudder

servo

• Rudder-to-elevator mixing to correct rudder-to-

elevator coupling

• Rudder-to-aileron mixing to correct rudder-to-

aileron coupling

When using a 7-channel or greater computer radio,
each servo is plugged into its own separate channel.
Consult your radio manual for specific details on
hookup and programming.

If using a 6-channel radio with flaperon mix, the
aileron servos are each plugged into their own
channels. The right aileron plugs into the aileron
socket in the receiver, while the left aileron plugs into
channel 6. With flaperon activated in the
programming, this allows for independent travel
adjustment of each aileron in each direction and
electronic aileron differential. Consult your manual
for more programming details.

With a 6-channel computer radio, it will be necessary
to Y-harness the two rudder and elevator servos; a
reversed elevator servo is needed to achieve the
correct control direction. A servo reverser can be
used here. Special attention must be taken with
the rudder servos so that they don’t fight each
other throughout the rudder travel. This is caused
by nonsymmetrical pushrod geometry from right to
left. It may be necessary to rotate the arm on the
servo one or two splines (most of the time toward
the rear) and readjust the linkage length in order
to prevent binding.

Using a non-computer radio will require that the
aileron, elevator and rudder be Y-harnessed. Be sure
to use a reversed servo (or a reverser) for one of the
elevator servos. Special attention must be taken with
the rudder servos so that they don’t fight each other
throughout the rudder travel. This is caused by non­symmetrical pushrod geometry from right to left. It
may be necessary to rotate the arm on the servo one
or two splines (most of the time toward the rear) and
readjust the linkage length in order to prevent
binding. If you’ve ever thought about purchasing a
computer radio, now is a good time to do it!

Section 18 – Control Throws

Standard 3D

Aileron

1

1

/2" up (18° up) 21/2" up (37° up)

11/8" down (17° down) 21/4" down (35° down)

Elevator

1

3

/8" up (16° up) 4" up (42° up)

1

1

/2" down (15° down) 41/4" down (44° down)

Standard 3D

Rudder

4

1

/2" right (26°) 8" right (44°)

41/2" left (26°) 8" left (44°)

36

Preflight at the Field

Range Test Your Radio

Step 1

Before each flying session, be sure to range check
your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your
transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the
receiver in your airplane. With your airplane on the
ground and the engine running, you should be able
to walk 30 paces (approximately 100 feet) away from
your airplane and still have complete control of all
functions. If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio
equipment checked out by the manufacturer.

Step 2

Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator,
rudder and throttle) move in the correct direction.

Step 3

Be sure that your batteries are fully charged, per the
instructions included with your radio.

Setup and Flying by Mike McConville

Our new Extra 330S will blow away almost any pilot
wanting to fly aerobatics. When designing this
model, I incorporated design features and
enhancements that have been learned from several
years of Tournament of Champions and IMAC
competition.

Does this mean the Extra is only for the serious
competitor? Absolutely not! What this does mean is
that the Extra is fine-tuned and tweaked to excel in
both precision aerobatics and wild freestyle type
3D, so doing any aerobatics will be easier than
it has ever been.

Preflight

Before getting to the really fun stuff—flying— I’d
like to reiterate some very important steps that were
covered in the assembly instructions. For those of
you who are veterans of large models, this is old
news. But to you newcomers to the world of large
models, this is very important info.

While many smaller models are very tolerant of
improper control linkage setups and flying
techniques, large models are not. Don’t let that scare
you away from large models; they are truly one of the
best flying experiences in RC that money can buy.
However, please pay particular attention to the
following areas:

Seal the aileron and elevator hinge gaps.

This should be considered part of finishing the
model, and is as important as installing the fuel tank
or battery pack. On large aerobatic models, this is
absolutely necessary. Failure to do this may very well
cause control surface flutter, and on a large model,
this will most likely cause a crash. Putting safety and
model preservation to the side, there are several
other reasons to do this on an aerobatic model. It will
increase the effectiveness of the control surfaces, and
the model will track more true and precise. Hinge
gaps sealed? CHECK!

Maintain the proper mechanical advantage
on all control surface linkages.

Same as unsealed hinge gaps, this is often the cause
of flutter. Please follow the control horn and servo
arm lengths recommended in this manual. Shorter
arms on the servo or longer control horns on the
elevator and ailerons are fine, but do not try to
go the other way to increase throw. It will cause
flutter on the Extra. The recommended linkage
setups are more than adequate to achieve full 3D
throws. That’s straight off of the prototypes. Linkages
are set? CHECK!

Never attempt to make full throttle dives!

Large models perform much more like full-size
aircraft than small models. If the airframe goes too
fast, such as in a high throttle dive, it may fail. The
Extra should be flown like a full-scale Extra. Throttle
management is absolutely necessary. If the nose is
down, the throttle comes back. CHECK!

37

The Prototype Model Setup

All of the recommended settings in this manual
are a result of the flight testing on the prototype
Extras. There are no secrets. If you follow the
instructions and these tips, your Extra will be
set up just like mine.

Although a computer radio is not mandatory, it is
preferable in this model. I use Exponential on all
controls to soften the feel around neutral. This makes
it easier to fly smooth in precision maneuvers and
also makes it less likely to over-control in 3D mode. I
use the following expo values:

Elevator +38% Low Rate, +70% 3D Rate
Aileron +40% Low Rate, +55% 3D Rate
Rudder +25% Low Rate, +50% 3D Rate
Note that + expo values soften the neutral with JR™

radios. Other brand systems may require “-”
(negative) expo values to soften the neutral.

I have flown Extras equipped with both JR 8101
servos and JR 8411 digital servos. While both are
excellent choices for the Extra, I personally prefer
the feel with the digital 8411 servos; the model feels
slightly more responsive with these servos. I
use a 6V Ni-Cd battery pack equipped with a 5.7V
regulator for maximum speed and torque
from the servos.

The prototype Extras were tested on both the
Zenoah® G62 as well as the Zenoah GT80. With the
G62 for power, the performance was very good sport
power. Vertical performance was good but not
unlimited. I used a Pro-Zinger 22 x 10 prop for all
testing. Even some 3D maneuvers such as Harriers,
Blenders, and Harrier landings were possible;
anything that did not require unlimited vertical.

My personal favorite powerplant is the Zenoah GT80.
I use a Bolly 24 x 10 propeller, which the GT80 turns
at approximately 7000 rpm, and a preshaped and
balanced Bolly 24 x 10 at 7700 rpm. Both work well,
but I feel the preshaped prop has the edge in
hovering maneuvers. This combination has proven to
be totally unlimited and allows anything imaginable
from torque rolls just a few inches off the ground to
multiple vertical snaps.

I found that adequate engine cooling is very
important with the GT80 and strongly recommend
adding the cowl baffles and cutting the cowl bottom
hole to the size recommended in the instructions.
When this was done, the performance difference was
dramatic. If you aren’t getting this kind of
performance, take a look at the cowl and how well
the GT80 is being cooled.

Performance Tip: Drill eight 5/16" diameter
holes through the internal baffle plate in the
GT80 mufflers. I drilled seven through the
intake opening and one up through the
exhaust stack. Just be sure to flush out all
of the metal shavings from the mufflers.
This little 10-minute trick will add 300 rpm
to the top end.

Computer Radio Enhancements

A computer radio will allow you to do quite a bit
of fine-tuning of the feel of the Extra, which will
make aerobatics even easier. Below are the
programming enhancements I normally use
to trim out an aerobatic model.

Differential Mixing

This is a great mixing feature of many computer
radios that allows you to dial in the aileron
differential, which is how the roll axis of the model is
set. The best method for setting this is to use the
Travel Adjust (ATV) of aileron and flap channels to
set the up and down movement of each aileron
exactly the same. Set it to the maximum throw of
21/2" (37°). Then set the differential by going to the
appropriate screen in the radio and adjusting the
differential value to reduce the down movement of
each aileron to 21/4" (35°).

38

Rudder-to-Elevator and Rudder-to­Aileron Mixing

This mix is used to dial out unwanted pitch and roll
caused by the rudder. The Extra has very little
coupling, but dialing it out will make knife-edge
maneuvers easier. Use a preprogrammed mix if your
radio has this feature, or if not, use a P-mix feature.
Assign rudder as the master channel and elevator as
the slave. Set the mixing values so when the rudder
is deflected all the way in either direction on high
rate, the elevator moves up 1/4" (2

1

/2°).

In another P-mix, assign rudder as the master and
aileron as the slave. Deflect the rudder to full left on
high rate and set the mix value so that the ailerons
deflect to the right 1/16" (1°). Then deflect the rudder
to full right and set the mix value so the ailerons
deflect left 1/16" (1°). You may have to tweak
your values a few percent to get it perfect. When its
right, the Extra should fly straight when on knife­edge and not roll at all or track to the top or bottom
of the fuselage.

Spoileron Mixing

This can be achieved by using either a
preprogrammed elevator-to-flap mix or a P-mix.
Assign elevator as the master channel and flap as the
slave. Set the mix values so that when full up, 3D
elevator is given, both ailerons also go up 7/16"
(16°). This mix helps stabilize the model in some 3D
maneuvers such as the Elevator and Harrier.

Throttle Curve

This is normally a preprogrammed function. It can
also be achieved in radios that do not have this
premix but do have curve type P-mixing by mixing
throttle as the master and slave channels. Then
adjust the curve to get the desired throttle servo
response. This is particularly useful to get an engine
to “act” linear throughout the entire throttle stick
movement. I also use this at times to make the
throttle response less sensitive in the rpm ranges
used for hovering the model. This makes altitude
control easier and smoother when doing torque rolls.

Rates and Expos: when and where to
use them

I always use Expo to soften the feel of the model. On
high 3D rates I use quite a bit. The goal on 3D rates
is to get the model to feel the same around neutral as
it does on low rates.

I use low rate settings for all flying except for 3D
aerobatics. For precision flying or general sport
hot-dogging, the low rate throws are perfect, even
for snap rolls. The only exception is rudder rates.
I go to 3D rate when doing stall turns and rolling
circles, since the more rudder the better for these.
When doing 3D aerobatics, I normally flip to 3D
rates just before the maneuver. As soon as the
maneuver is done, I flip back down to low rate to
avoid over-controlling the model.

Let’s Get Down To It

When flying aerobatics with a larger model, you will
find that it will do everything just like a smaller
model… only better and easier. There are just a few
exceptions to how things are done.

Throttle management is a must. You have to throttle
back to idle when the nose is pointed down.

Snap Rolls

Just like the need to be throttle-managed like a full­scale airplane, larger aerobatic airplanes need to be
snapped like a full-scale. Don’t feel bad if this seems
like a big “What are you talking about?” to you. It
took me quite a while to figure this out. Let’s back up
to how we all learned to do a snap roll. If it’s an
inside (positive) snap, we pull the sticks into the
corner, i.e. full up, full aileron, and full rudder in the
same direction as aileron. When we want to stop
snapping, we release the controls. For smaller
models, this technique not only works, but is
normally the only way to get the model to snap. In a
full-scale aerobatic plane, as well as with large
models, snaps are different, particularly on the new
breed of aerobatic birds like the Extra 330S, which
have large control surfaces.

39

Unloading Snaps

That’s the whole trick. To start a snap roll, the same
method as with a smaller model is used. Pull full up,
full rudder and aileron in the same direction. But as
soon as the sticks reach the corners, neutralize the
elevator, while keeping the rudder and ailerons at full
deflection. When you do this correctly, the Extra will
not get “deep” into snaps. This allows it to keep
more airspeed as it exits the snap, so it stops
snapping where you what it to and flies out with
more air speed. You’ll also find that it will be a lot
easier to exit a snap heading the same direction you
were going when you entered the snap. It’ll take a
little practice to get the hang of “flying” the snaps,
but I’ll bet you’ll see a big improvement in the
quality of your flying.

Extra 330S-3D at its Best

3D maneuvers (in simplest terms) are maneuvers
performed by an airplane that are not usually done in
a normal airplane flight path. What can be done with
a 3D-capable plane is to make it fly like no other. For
example, hovering in the air nose high at a
45-degree descent, floating along in level flight,
hanging on the prop, or tumble tail-over-nose in a
rapid flipping motion. When you sprinkle these
maneuvers together with other loops, rolls, snaps

and spins, it seems like the aerobatic options are
endless.

To fly 3D, you must have a plane that’s capable.
What’s capable? Well, it starts with having outlandish
pitch control from having huge elevators. The same
applies, but not to the same extent, with rudder and
ailerons. When it comes to 3D aerobatics, our Extra
330S is second to none, and has already proven
itself in “combat” having placed first and second in
its first freestyle competition.

The Maneuvers

Let’s cover the seven 3D maneuvers where the Extra
330S really excels.

40

The Blender

What it is: The Blender or Panic maneuver is a
vertical diving roll that virtually stops its descent as it
instantaneously enters into a flat spin.

Setup: Follow the 3D setup as described in the
manual. Be sure to use Expo. Setting the CG toward
the aft location will help, but I have had great results
even at the forward CG location. This is a wing tester
and can be extremely violent but will always generate
gasps of excitement. But done correctly, the Extra
330S can handle the challenge.

How to do it: Start from about 400–500 feet
straight and level, chop throttle, and push the nose
straight down. As soon as the model is diving
straight down at low throttle, add full left aileron. Let
the model compete two or three rolls and then
quickly transition the sticks to an inverted snap
roll position (left aileron, right rudder, down elevator)
all at the same time. As soon as the Extra enters a
spin, quickly neutralize the ailerons while holding
full right rudder and down elevator. If you do it right,
the airplane will instantly transition from a left roll
to a flat spin in the same direction, and the decent
will all but stop.

Tip: Add full throttle just after the spin goes
flat. That’ll keep fuel going to the engine, make
the rotation speed high, and help stop the
vertical descent.

Recovery: Simply release rudder and hold just a
little down elevator. The model will stop rotating and
begin to fly out. As it gains airspeed, roll back to
upright. Since you’re in 3D mode, make sure you
don’t do anything abrupt, or you’ll stall again.

41

The Elevator

What it is: The plane drops vertically while in a
nose high attitude. Depending on the head wind
conditions, the model will drop anywhere from about
a 45-degree angle in calm conditions to vertical or
even a little backwards in more windy conditions.
Throttle is used to determine rate of descent and the
nose high attitude of the model.

Setup: Same as the Blender, only for this one, flip
the switch to turn on the spoilerons. This will help to
keep the Extra 330S from teetering back and forth.

How it’s done: At near stall airspeed up high,
slowly feed in up elevator until you have the full 3D
rate up in it. With low throttle, the Extra will fall like a
rock. To guide it around, use the rudder, not ailerons.
Just keep the wings level. Add power to change the
attitude of your Extra 330S.

Trickiest part: Aside from steering it with the
rudder, you’ll quickly see that this maneuver is a
matter of juggling the throttle and rudder to get the

plane to go where you want it to go.
Recovery: Basic recovering—add full power, flip to

normal rate elevator, and fly out.
Advanced Recovery: Take the elevator all the way

to the ground—adding some power before it touches
down to slow the descent and transition into a
Harrier and land.

OR
Add power to get the nose to rise to vertical and

transition into a torque roll. Elevator down from a
hundred feet down to 20 feet (or less) and power up
into a torque roll. Ooh!!

Worst way to mess up: Let your direction control
(rudder) get away from you after starting too low—
you could snap it right into the ground. Ouch!

42

The Harrier

What is it: It is very slow forward flight in a very
nose high (about 45 degrees) attitude.

Setup: Same as the Elevator, and the raised ailerons
help in this maneuver even more.

How it’s done: Start by entering an Elevator
maneuver. Let the Extra drop a small amount, then
slowly add power until the vertical descent stops and
the model begins to fly forward with the nose very
high, all the while your holding full up-elevator (on
3D rate). Juggle the power to control the attitude and
forward speed of the model. In a head wind, you may
also have to juggle the elevator some to keep the
model from pitching up to a vertical attitude. Use the
rudder to steer the model around in the Harrier
attitude. Try to use the ailerons very little, as they
will cause the model to wobble side to side.

Trickiest Part: Keeping up with the model if it
begins to wobble.

Recovery: Simply add full power and reduce
elevator to transition into normal forward flight.

Advanced Recovery: After you get the hang of
flying around in the Harrier, juggle the throttle to
slowly lose altitude and do a Harrier landing. The
model will land on the rear of the rudder first, and
then add a little power so it doesn’t smack the
landing gear too hard.

43

The Torque Roll

What it is: The Extra 330S “hovers” vertically in
place, rotating left around its roll axis.

Setup: Full 3D throws in elevator and rudder are a
must. An aft CG helps a little. Also gyros provide
the best aid to stabilize the aircraft. They won’t do
the maneuver for you but they’ll help. I found them
a fantastic tool in learning to torque roll, kind of
like training wheels. A few years ago gyros made a
big difference for me; now I don’t use them
anymore. You’ll need to use the Zenoah

®

GT80 or an
engine that will give you unlimited vertical
before you try this one.

How it’s done: Fly low along the ground at low
throttle and gently add power with up elevator to
bring the model into a vertical position. Add throttle
to keep the nose pointed up and make corrections
with rudder and elevator to keep things straight. If the
model hovers but won’t start rolling left, quickly blip
the throttle up and down. The torque change will
usually get it going.

Trickiest part: Recognizing your correction when
the model’s belly is toward you.

Tip: Think: push the rudder toward the low wing
when the belly is toward you. You have to be fast
with throttle corrections. Add bursts of power, along
with rudder/elevator corrections. If you simply hold
full throttle, you’ll climb out of the maneuver.

Recovery: Fly out at full throttle.
Worst way to mess up: Have an unreliable

engine. Torque Rolls are tough on engines because
there’s only prop-induced airflow over the cylinders.
I’d really recommend putting the baffling in the cowl
if you are running a twin-cylinder engine and plan on
doing Torque Rolls.

44

The Parachute

What it is: The Parachute is a vertical dive that
instantly decelerates in its descent as it
instantaneously corners into an Elevator.

Setup: Same as the Elevator, and the raised ailerons
help in this maneuver too.

How to do it: Start from about 400-500 feet straight
and level, chop throttle, and push the nose straight
down. As soon as the model is diving straight down
at low throttle, add full up-elevator. If you do it right,
the Extra 330S will instantly transition from a vertical
dive to an Elevator.

Tip: Add a little throttle just after transition to an
Elevator. That’ll keep fuel going to the engine and
keep it from quitting.

Recovery: Simply add full power and reduce
elevator to transition into normal forward flight.

Advanced Recovery: Juggle the throttle to slowly
lose altitude and do a Harrier landing. The model will
land on the rear of the rudder first, and then add a
little power so it doesn’t smack the landing gear too
hard.

Worst way to mess up: To build up too much
speed. This maneuver has a huge “WOW” factor but,
just like a Blender, too much speed and it over­stresses the wing. Watch the speed.

45

The Wall

What it is: The Wall is a Parachute turned on end.
The model starts in normal level flight and suddenly
corners nose up 90 degrees, as if it hit a wall.

Setup: Same as the Elevator, and the raised ailerons
help in this maneuver too.

How to do it: Start from about 100 feet straight and
level, chop throttle, and as the model begins to slow
down, quickly pull full up-elevator. When the Extra
330S corners to vertical, add full power and release
the up-elevator.

Tip: Start a low speed and add power at the same
time that you begin to pull full up-elevator.

Recovery: Simply release the elevator, go to full
throttle, and fly out upward.

Advanced Recovery: Juggle the throttle to sustain
a hover and transition into a torque roll.

Worst way to mess up: Don’t get the throttle in
quickly enough and the model falls backward.

Great combo: This has become one of my favorites
to do with the Extra 330S. Takeoff normally, but as
soon as the Extra is airborne, chop the throttle and
do the Wall, then transition into a Torque Roll over
the runway. Practice all of this stuff up high before
you try that.

I hope you enjoy your Extra 330S as much as I do!
Happy Landings!
Mike McConville

46

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400
feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an
observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid
having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or
dangerous manner.

4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55 pounds,
except models flown under Experimental Aircraft rules.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
(This does not apply to models while being flown
indoors.)

6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers
or with gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air
enter their internal combustion engine(s); nor will I
operate models with extremely hazardous fuels such as
those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind)
including, but not limited to, rockets, explosive bombs
dropped from models, smoke bombs, all explosive gases
(such as hydrogen filled balloons), ground mounted
devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions
permitted are rockets flown in accordance with the
National Model Rocketry Safety Code or those
permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those items
authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST
Advisory Committee (document available from AMA HQ).
In any case, models using rocket motors as a primary
means of propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of

3.3 pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is
defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able to
carry a human being.)

8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor
during, participation in any model operations.

9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed on the
flight line as a pilot or while under flight instruction.

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
flying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight
line. Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

2003 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 2003

Model Flying MUST be in accordance with this Code in order for AMA Liability Protection to apply.

47

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly licensed
Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur
Band frequencies.)

5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more are
considered safe from site-to site interference, even when
both sites use the same frequencies. Any circumstances
under three miles separation require a frequency
management arrangement which may be either an
allocation of specific frequencies for each site or testing
to determine that freedom from interference exists.
Allocation plans or interference test reports shall be
signed by the parties involved and provided to AMA
Headquarters. Documents of agreement and reports may
exist between (1) two or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2)
AMA clubs and individual AMA members not associated
with AMA Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA
members.

6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement line
and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic inch of
engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine = 200 feet.);
electric motors will be based on equivalent combustion
engine size. Additional safety requirements will be per the
RC Combat section of the current Competition
Regulations.

7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single
straight line must be established, one side of which is for
flying, with the other side for spectators.

8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight.

Organized RC Racing Event

10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete in
flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.

A. In every organized racing event in which contestants,
callers and officials are on the course:

1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly wear
helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or NOCSAE
approved or comparable standard while on the
racecourse.

2. All officials will be off the course except for the starter
and their assistant.

3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond the
pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.

B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized racing
event which does not comply with paragraph A above or
which allows models over 20 pounds unless that
competition event is AMA sanctioned.

C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator (line)
will be in accordance with the current Competition
Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing section for the
specific event pending two or three pylon course layout.

11) RC night flying is limited to low performance models
(less than 100 mph). The models must be equipped with
a lighting system that clearly defines the aircraft’s attitude
at all times.

2003 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Continued

#6061

© 2003, Horizon Hobby, Inc.

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

[phone]

www.horizonhobby.com

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®