Hangar 9 Clipped-wing Taylorcraft Instruction Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TM

TM

Specifications

Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

1

/

2 in . . . . . . . . . 2172 mm

Length: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 in . . . . . . . . . 1702 mm

Wing Area: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1315 sq in . . . . . . . . . 84.4 dm sq

Flight Weight: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13–15 lb . . . . . . 5.9–6.8 kg

Recommended Engines: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.08 - 1.48 2-Stroke

1.20 - 1.82 4-Stroke
Zenoah .23 Gas

• 90% prebuilt

• Giant scale legal

• Precovered with genuine UltraCote

®

• Featuring one-of-a-kind scale trim scheme

• Prefinished fiberglass cowl

• Gas or glow option

2

Table of Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Additional Required Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizer) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tail Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear and Wheel Pants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Section 11: Installing the Engine (Glow Option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Section 12: Installing the Engine (Gas Option) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

Section 13: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank (Glow/Gas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Section 14: Installing the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Section 17: Attaching the Windshield, Side Windows, and Overhead Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Section 18: Assembling and Installing the Wing Struts/Tail Braces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48

Section 19: Application of Decals and Scale Detailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Section 20: Control Throw Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Section 21: Balancing the Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Preflight at the Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

AMA Safety Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

3

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the finest stand-off scale ARFs to be produced! The Hangar 9™Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft is
a stand-off scale aircraft for the modeler wanting a scale aerobatic civil aircraft. Although this is an ARF (Almost Ready-to-Fly) kit, it
does have some construction features that can be challenging for the new modeler. If you encounter difficulty in any construction
sequence, please feel free to contact one of our technicians —we stand ready to provide any assistance we can concerning the
construction of your Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft. You can contact us at

Horizon Hobby, Inc.
4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
[phone]
www.horizonhobby.com

The Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft used in the instructions for this kit was a production model just like yours. This is a "stand-off scale"
model, however the experienced modeler will find that this kit has the basic components that will allow for numerous variations. If you
decide to make scale variations, we would be very interested in learning about your effort. Any changes in the basic parameters of the
kit could result in a model that does not perform as this kit has been designed to do. Our research and development staff has built
numerous prototypes leading up to this production version. Please be sure to read the Section 21 on "Balancing the Clipped-Winged
Taylorcraft" and the engines used. We believe this information is very important for the modeler to ensure the aircraft is a safe and
satisfactory flyer.

Warning

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.

4

Additional Required Equipment

Radio Equipment Systems

4 channels (minimum)
5 servos (JRPS8101 servos recommended)
Standard 600-1000mAh Receiver Battery Pack
Y-harness (if a non-computer radio is used)

Recommended JR Systems

JR XF652
JR XP783
JR XP8103
PCM10X

Engines

1.08 - 1.48 2-Cycle Engines

1.20 - 1.82 4-Cycle Engines
Zenoah G23 Gas Engine

Recommended Recommended Recommended
2-Cycle Engines 4-Cycle Engines Gas Engine

Webra™1.20 Saito™1.20 - 1.80 Zenoah®G23 Gasoline Engine
MDS™1.48 Saito 1.20GK - 1.80GK

Saito 1.82 Twin

MDS 1.48 Saito 1.80 Zenoah G-23

JR 8103 10X

5

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit)

Aileron Extension (2) (JRPA098, 12" Gold)
Propeller
Fuel filter
Foam for cushioning tank
Fuel tubing
Fuel Filler (HAN119)
Shut-Off Switch for gasoline engine (kill-switch) (ZEN2000)
Radio packing foam

Tools and Adhesives Needed (not included in the kit)

Adhesives

Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
6-minute epoxy
30-minute epoxy
Blue Locktite Z-42
Canopy glue (R/C 56)
Silver solder (Stay Brite)
Masking tape

Tools

Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 1/8", 5/32", 1/4"
Soldering iron
Phillips screwdriver (small and medium)
Z-bend pliers
Pliers
Hex Wrench: 1/16"
Round file (small)
Moto-tool with sanding drum
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Mixing stick

Epoxy brush
90-degree triangle
Sanding sticks (medium)
Medium sandpaper
Straight edge
Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)
Scissors
Paper towels
Wax paper
Rubbing alcohol
Felt-tipped pen

6

Contents of Kit

Replacement Parts

Large Parts
Fuselage (HAN1852)
Wing Set (HAN1851)
Tail Set (HAN1853)
Decal Set (HAN1859)
Main Landing Gear w/Mounting Hardware (HAN1857)

Wheel Pants (HAN1856)
Cowl (HAN1855)
True Red UltraCote®(HANU866)
White UltraCote (HANU870)
Black UltraCote (HANU874)
Red/White 2" Checkered (HANU944)

Pushrod and accessories
Plywood die-cut motor spacer parts
Hardware bags for control linkages
Fuel tank and hardware
Wheels

Metal Motor Mounts w/Hardware (HAN2033)
Tail Wheel and Hardware (HAN2087)
Windshield Set (HAN1854)
Wing Strut Set (HAN1858)
Wing mounting hardware

Other Parts

Note: Photos of products may vary slightly from the contents in the box.

7

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

Right wing panel with aileron and hinges
Left wing panel with aileron and hinges

Instant thin CA glue
CA remover/debonder

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons,

elevators, and rudder, come with the hinges installed, but
the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that you
properly adhere the hinges and ailerons in place per the
steps that follow using a high-quality thin CA glue.

Step 1. Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing
panels. Note the position of the hinges. The Taylorcraft comes
with high-quality CA-type hinges.

Step 2. Remove each hinge from the wing panel and place a
T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the wing
panel until the T-pin is snug against the wing.

Step 3. Slide the aileron onto the wing until there is only a
slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and
aileron. Remove the T-pin and snug the aileron against the wing
panel. This will ensure that the hinges are centered.

Step 4. Deflect the aileron and completely saturate the hinge
with thin CA glue. The aileron's front surface should lightly
contact the wing during this procedure. When the hinge is glued
in place, a 1/32" gap or less will be maintained throughout the
length of the aileron. The hinge is constructed of a special
material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute
throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure.

Step 5. Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the
opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to
each aileron hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates into both
the aileron and the wing.

Paper towels
T-pins (one for each hinge)

8

Step 6. Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel,
remove any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the
wing or in the aileron hinge area.

Step 7. Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely
hinging the aileron in place.

Step 8. After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp
the wing and aileron and check that the hinges are securely
glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by applying medium
pressure, trying to separate the aileron from the wing. Use
caution not to crush the wing structure.

Note: Work the aileron up and down several times to
"work in" the hinges and check for proper movement.

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

CONTINUED

9

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

Right/left wing panels
Wing joiner

30-minute epoxy
Epoxy brush
Masking tape
Hobby knife
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. Locate the wing joiner. Using the ruler, determine the

center of the joiner and mark it with a pencil.

Step 2. Trial fit the wing joiner into one of the wing panels. It
should insert smoothly up to the centerline marked in Step 1.
Now slide the other wing panel onto the wing joiner until the
wing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary
to sand the wing joiner. Check to make sure the alignment of
the wing is accurate.

Step 3. The wing has 0° dihedral. Place the wing on a large
flat surface with both wing panels resting on the flat surface.
If necessary, sand the wing joiner until this is achieved. There
should be no gap in the wing center.

Step 4. Separate the wing halves and remove the wing joiner.
Once you’re satisfied with the trial fit of the wing panels, you can
prepare to epoxy the wing panels together.

Note: Use the plastic wing covers as a means of keeping
epoxy from smearing on the wings. Slip one on each panel
and use masking tape to hold in place.

Step 5. Mix an ample amount of 30-minute epoxy. Have some
wax paper handy to prevent epoxy from dripping on your
workbench top.

Note: It is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy.

Wax paper
Ruler
Pencil
Medium sandpaper
Mixing stick

Wing Bag

Tape

0°

10

Step 6. Place one wing half right-side up on a flat work
surface. Use a scrap piece of wood or an epoxy brush and smear
a generous amount of epoxy into the wing joiner cavity in the
wing panel.

Step 7. Coat one half of the wing brace with epoxy on all sides,
up to the pencil line drawn in Step 1. Install the epoxy coated
half of the wing brace into the wing joiner cavity of the wing
panel, up to the centerline. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper
towel to clean up any excess epoxy.

Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing brace
cavity of the other wing panel.

Note: You will need to mix additional epoxy to complete
the wing joining process.

Step 9. Next, apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of the
wing joiner and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy.

CONTINUED

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

11

Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and
firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out.
There should not be any gap in the wing halves. Also, check to
make sure the wing panels align properly. Wipe any excess
epoxy away with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. The plastic
wing bags can be removed at this time.

Step 11. Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the wing
halves together securely. Place the wing top-side up on a flat
surface. Apply more masking tape to the wing center joint. Make
sure the wing halves are still properly aligned. Allow the wing
joint epoxy to cure completely (overnight).

Note: It is helpful to use wax paper underneath the wing
center while the epoxy is curing so any excess epoxy will
not adhere to the work area surface.

Step 12. After the wing center joint is cured completely,
remove the masking tape.

Note: If there is any gap between the wing halves, fill
with epoxy.

Procedures for mounting the wing to the fuselage will be
presented in Section 5.

CONTINUED

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

12

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Assembled wing
Standard size servos (2)
Servo extensions (12") (JRPA114) (2)
Nylon wire (36")
Y-harness (if using a non-computer radio)

Hobby knife
Phillips screwdriver (medium)
Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Masking tape
Pencil
Needle-nose pliers

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. Locate the servo openings in the bottom of each of the

wing halves. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim away the covering
over the openings.

Step 2. Install the recommended servo hardware supplied with
your radio system onto your servos (grommets and eyelets).
Install a servo extension lead to the servo as well. Secure the
connectors with by tying them in a knot and use electrical tape
to secure in place and prevent opening in flight.

Hint: It is always a good idea to secure the servo
connectors and servo extension together to prevent the
wires from becoming unplugged inside the wing.

Step 3. Trial fit the servo into the servo opening. Some
trimming may be required, depending on the type of servo
installed.

Note: We have orientated the servo so the servo arm is
closer to the trailing edge of the wing.

Step 4. With the servo in place, mark the location of the servo
screws that are used to mount the servo to the plywood rail
inside the servo opening in each wing half.

13

Step 5. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the servo screw locations
marked in Step 4.

Step 6. Before mounting the servo, it would be wise to run the
servo lead and extension through the wing and out the opening
provided for each at the wing center on the top of the wing. Turn
the wing so you can see the root rib. Look carefully for a circular
opening near the root of the wing, in each wing panel. Trim away
the covering to expose the opening. Use a sharp hobby knife to
remove the covering over each opening using caution not to cut
into the wing sheeting.

Step 7. We suggest the following simple method to thread the
servo lead and extension through the wing servo opening. Attach
a weight (small nut) to a length of string and drop it through the
servo lead opening in the wing and allow it to exit through the
servo opening in the bottom of the wing.

Step 8. Once you have the string threaded through the wing, tie
it to the servo lead extension connector. Carefully thread the
servo wire extension through the wing.

Step 9. To prevent the extension from falling back inside the
wing, use masking tape to temporarily hold it in place by taping
the extension to the top of the wing.

Step 10. Secure the servo to the wing using the screws
provided with your radio.

Step 11. Repeat the procedure for the other servo.

Note: If using a non-computer radio, it will be necessary

to use a Y-harness to connect both aileron servos to the
aileron channel.

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

CONTINUED

14

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages

Wing assembly from Section 3
4-40 Aileron linkages (x 3 3/4") (2) (threaded on both ends)
Control horns (2)
Screws (4)
Clevis (4)
Metal clevis keeper (4)
Jam nuts (4)

Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Phillips screwdriver (small)
Felt-tipped pen
Masking tape
Ruler

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. Turn the wing upside down on a flat surface. From the

aileron servo control arm that is attached to your servo (if it is
not attached, do so now), use a felt-tipped pen and ruler to mark
the location of the servo horn, directly in-line with the servo
control arm as shown. Note the portion of the servo arm we use
is the one pointing toward the wingtip. Remember to locate the
control horn so the clevis holes are directly above the hinge line
of the aileron.

Step 2. Place the center of the control horn on the aileron at the
mark made in the previous step. Mark the hole positions of the
control horn.

(Step 2 photo)

Step 3. Remove the control horn and drill two 1/16" holes

through the aileron as marked. The trailing edge of the aileron
should be in line with the rest of the wing. Drill straight down at
a 90-degree angle to the flat surface.

Step 4. Attach the aileron control horn using the hardware
provided (two long brass screws and a nylon backplate) and
fasten it in place using a small Phillips screwdriver.

15

Step 5. Repeat Steps 2–4 for the other aileron control horn.

Step 6. Locate the two threaded aileron wire linkages

(4-40 x 3

3

/

4"). Thread a jam nut and clevis at least 16 turns on

to each end of each rod. Be sure these are not the longer wire
control rods to be used later for the elevator.

Step 7. Install the clevis with the attached linkage to the aileron
control arm. Center the servo arm as shown. Make sure the
aileron is at 0° deflection. Hold in place with masking tape
if necessary.

Step 8. Do the same for the other aileron linkage.

Step 9. Attach the linkages onto their respective aileron control

horns.

Step 10. With the servo arm centered as shown, adjust the
aileron linkage until the aileron is exactly in the neutral position.
Follow this procedure for the other aileron linkage. Final
adjustments will be made later as you adjust the control throws
in Section 20.

Note: Be sure to fasten the metal clevis keeper to the clevis
as shown below. This will provide extra insurance against
the clevises accidentally opening.

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages

CONTINUED

16

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

Complete wing assembly
Fuselage
Wing dowel rods (2)
Fuselage wing hold-down screws/washers (2)
Blind nuts (2 )
Wing center plate
Wing bolt plate

CA glue (thin)
Drill
Drill Bit: 1/8", 1/4"
Phillips screwdriver (medium)
Round file (small)
Hobby knife
6-minute epoxy
Measuring device (e.g., 36" ruler or tape measure)
Masking tape
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Felt-tipped pen or pencil

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. Locate the two dowels, nylon wing bolts, blind nuts,

wing bolt plate, and the tapered wing center plate section that fits
between the wing and front windshield former in the fuselage.

Step 2. Locate the shaped leading edge piece (wing center
plate) that goes in the wing and fits into the opening of the front
windshield former. Trial fit the wing to the fuselage to see if any
material needs to be removed from the tapered block so that the
wing will fit snugly onto the fuselage. Mix approximately 1/4 oz
of 6-minute epoxy and glue the shaped leading edge piece into
the slot in the wing as shown. Allow the epoxy to cure before
attempting to drill holes for the wing hold down dowels.

Step 3. Locate the two holes in the leading edge of the fuselage
front windscreen former. The holes have been predrilled in the
plywood former. Trial fit the dowels to make sure they will slide
into the holes without binding. When you’re satisfied, remove
the dowels.

Step 4. Use a ruler to mark the center line of the fuselage
opening where the trailing edge of the wing will rest on the
fuselage. We will use this mark to help center the wing on the
fuselage prior to drilling the wind bolt holes.

17

Step 5. Place the wing on the fuselage. The leading edge
should be centered on the front windshield former opening.

Note: There will be a small gap between the leading edges
of the wing and the fuselage sides, as shown below.

Step 6. Center the trailing edge of the wing center with the mark
made on the fuselage cabin area in Step 4.

Step 7. When you’re satisfied the wing is centered on the
fuselage, use masking tape to temporarily hold the wing in
position on the fuselage.

Step 8. With the wing secured, drill the dowel holes into the
shaped leading edge material you glued to the wing leading edge
in Step 2, using a 1/4" drill bit.

Caution: Do not drill through the leading edge material
completely, as you will drill into the square open wing skylight
area of the wing. We suggest using a piece of masking tape on
the drill bit to mark the depth you plan to drill.

Step 9. Remove the wing from the fuselage. Mix approximately
1/4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and glue the dowels into the holes
in the leading edge of the wing you just drilled. Wipe away any
excess epoxy with alcohol and a paper towel. Allow the epoxy
to cure completely before attempting to reattach the wing to
the fuselage.

Step 10. Reinstall the wing and trial fit the wing hold down
plate to the trailing edge of the wing center. Note the rounded
portion of the plate faces toward the front. Mark the wing bolt
plate location on the wing with a felt-tipped pen or pencil.

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

CONTINUED

18

Step 11. Trim away the film covering the wing bolt holes in the
wing bolt plate. Next, trim the covering where the wing bolt plate
will be attached to the wing trailing edge top.

Caution: Use care in cutting away the covering, as cutting
into the balsa wood can weaken the structure.

Step 12. Mix approximately 1/4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and
glue the wing hold down plate to the wing trailing edge top. Note
that the wing bolt plate has the holes already drilled out for the
wing hold down bolts. These holes will serve as the template
where the wing hold down bolt holes will be drilled into the wing
and fuselage.

Step 13. Carefully fit the wing into position on the fuselage
by first sliding the leading edge dowels into the fuselage front
wing dowel support bulkhead that makes up the frame for the
front windshield.

Step 14. Check the wing alignment at the rear with reference
to the centerline mark. Also, check the wing alignment by
measuring from each wing tip to the center of the fuselage tail
where the horizontal and vertical stabilizers are mounted. Use the
same point on each wing tip to make sure the wing is centered
on the fuselage.

Step 15. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, you are

ready to drill the wing hold-down bolt holes through the wing
and into the fuselage wing bolt plate. Using a 1/4" drill bit and
the wing bolt plate holes as a guide, drill through the wing into
the fuselage and through the plywood wing hold-down plate.

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

CONTINUED

19

Step 16. Press the blind nuts into position below the rear wing
hold-down block in the rear portion of the fuselage wing area.
One method is to use pliers with an adjustable opening to
squeeze the blind nuts so the "teeth" penetrate the wood and
stay in place.

Note: It's important that the blind nuts be fully pressed in
against the bottom of the wing hold-down block to make
sure they are properly aligned. This sets the alignment
angle of the wing hold-down bolts. It’s a good idea to place
a piece of wood on the top side of the wing bolt hold-down
block to keep from crushing the wood.

Step 17. A small drop of CA glue will help hold the blind nuts
in place. Use care not to get the CA on the inner threads of the
blind nuts.

Step 18. Fit the wing into position on the fuselage. Thread the
wing hold-down screws into the wing and loosely tighten them.
Check the alignment of the wing by measuring the alignment as
you did in Step 14. It may be necessary to slightly enlarge the
holes with a small round file to obtain the proper alignment.
When you are satisfied with the fit, tighten down the wing hold
down bolts.

Step 19. Locate the red wing center tape. Apply to the top of
the wing center section as needed.

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

CONTINUED

20

Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizer)

Fuselage
Wing
Horizontal stabilizer with elevators
Vertical stabilizer with rudder

Thin CA glue
CA remover/debonder
30-minute epoxy
Epoxy brush
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Straight edge
Pencil

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, slots are precut in the wood

structure for the vertical fin. The horizontal stabilizer mounts to
the area at the top of the fuselage rear. You will need to trim away
the covering with a sharp hobby knife.

Step 2. The horizontal stabilizer will be mounted to the
fuselage first. Keep the two elevator halves on the horizontal
stabilizer to assist in centering the horizontal stabilizer. Use a
straight edge to locate and mark the centerline of the horizontal
stabilizer. This will serve as a reference point when installing the
horizontal stabilizer onto the fuselage.

Step 3. By noting the centerline you marked, you can position
the horizontal stabilizer so that it’s centered on the fuselage
opening where the vertical stabilizer will go and the rear of
the fuselage.

Step 4. Mark the centerline of the rear of the fuselage. Position
the horizontal stabilizer so its center line mark is in line with the
fuselage rear mark. Use the ruler to make sure the horizontal
stabilizer projects an equal amount on either side of the fuselage
at that point.

Step 5. Install the wing and sight the horizontal stabilizer
alignment from the rear of the aircraft. Make sure the horizontal
stabilizer is level with reference to the wing.

Felt-tipped pen
Masking tape
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
90-degree triangle
Ruler (36")

21

Step 6. With the fuselage resting on a flat surface, align the
horizontal stabilizer by measuring from fixed points on the wing
to the outside of the trailing edge tip of the horizontal stabilizer.
Make sure the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer stays on
its center mark.

Step 7. Adjust the horizontal stabilizer until you have an equal
distance on both the right and left side of the fuselage and that
the horizontal stabilizer is positioned correctly (not tilted) with
reference to the wing. Refer to the illustrations below.

Step 8. When you're satisfied with the alignment of the
horizontal stabilizer with the wing, carefully mark the position
with a pencil at the junction where the horizontal stabilizer meets
the fuselage. The pencil should leave a slight indentation in the
covering. Mark the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. Use
masking tape to hold it in position.

Step 9. Trial fit the vertical stabilizer in position on the
fuselage, after removing the rudder and hinges. Set these aside
for now, as the rudder will be attached later in Section 8. Make
sure the vertical stabilizer is inserted completely. Some slight
trimming to the bottom of the fin may be necessary

Hint: The back of the vertical stabilizer slides into a slot
at the back of the fuselage.

Step 10. Carefully check the vertical stabilizer to make sure it's
aligned 90° to the horizontal stabilizer. A 90-degree triangle is
helpful in this step.

Hint: When installing the vertical stabilizer, use the rudder
to check for proper stabilizer height so the rim of the rudder
matches trim scheme at fuselage rear. It may be necessary
to cut off a small amount from the bottom of the vertical
stabilizer to get the rudder to drop down to the proper
position so the rudder and the fuselage align.

Step 11. Double-check the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin
alignment. It may be necessary to slightly trim the balsa wood on
the fuselage or tail parts with a sharp hobby knife or sandpaper
to achieve exact alignment.

Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizer)

CONTINUED

Correct

Incorrect

22

Step 12. When you’re satisfied with the alignment, carefully
mark the position of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the
fuselage/horizontal stabilizer with a pencil. The pencil should
make a light indentation in the covering.

Step 13. Remove the horizontal and vertical stabilizers from
the fuselage. Using a sharp hobby knife and a straight edge,
carefully cut the covering at approximately 1/16" inside the lines
you drew, on both sides of the horizontal and vertical stabilizer.
Be sure to remove covering at bottom of vertical stabilizer so
epoxy will adhere to it.

Caution: Do not cut into the wood. This will weaken
the structure.

Step 14. Mix approximately 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy to
attach the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage. Mount the
horizontal stabilizer into the fuselage.

Step 15. Check the alignment of the horizontal stabilizer by
referring to the marks made previously, and measuring the wing
to horizontal stabilizer as done in Step 5 and Step 6. Clean
excess epoxy away from the horizontal stabilizer/fuselage
junction with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel. Use masking
tape to hold the horizontal stabilizer in place while epoxying the
vertical stabilizer in place in the next step.

Step 16. Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and apply in the
fuselage cavity where the vertical fin will be installed. Apply
epoxy to both sides of the vertical stabilizer, where the covering
has been removed, and to its base. Insert the fin into the fuselage
and wipe away excess with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

Step 17. Check the alignment of the horizontal stabilizer to the
vertical stabilizer and wing by sighting from the rear of the
aircraft. Use masking tape to hold the components in proper
alignment while the epoxy cures.

Step 18. After the epoxy has cured, the wing may be removed
from the to ease the construction process in the following steps.

Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizer)

CONTINUED

90°

Correct

90°

23

Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators

Fuselage with horizontal and vertical stabilizers mounted
Elevators (2)

Thin CA glue
CA debonder
Paper towels
T-pins

Step 1. Locate the two elevator halves. Trial fit each into
position using the same hinging technique learned in Section 1.

Step 2. With one elevator half proper aligned (left and right),
apply thin CA glue to the hinges on both sides. Wipe away any
excess CA with CA debonder and a paper towel.

Step 3. After the hinges are dry, check that they are securely in
place by trying to pull the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer.
Use care not to crush the structure.

Step 4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for the other elevator half.

Step 5. Flex the elevator halves up and down several times to

"work in" the hinges and check for proper movement.

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

24

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tail Wheel

Rudder
Fuselage
Tail wheel assembly

Thin CA glue
CA remover/debonder
Blue Locktite Z-42
30-minute epoxy
Needle-nose pliers
Hobby knife with #11 blade

Step 1. Trial fit the rudder in position on the vertical fin with
the hinges in place. Note that three hinges attach the rudder to
the vertical fin.

Step 2. Insert the tail wheel wire into the pivot bushing. With
the pivot bushing resting against the coil in the tail wheel wire,
use needle-nose pliers to make a 90-degree bend in the direction
shown below, 1/8" above the top of the pivot bushing.

Note: The part of the tail wheel wire that inserts into the
rudder must go into the wood block in the rudder. To insure
adequate strength, the bend of the wire must be kept as low
as possible or the wire will miss the hardwood.

Step 3. Hold the tail wheel assembly up to the fuselage in a
position where it's flush with the fuselage bottom. Note where
the wire rests in reference to the rudder. Using a felt-tipped pen,
mark the position where the hole is to be drilled into the rudder.
Also mark the position of the slot where the nylon bearing will fit
into the back of the fuselage. This slot should be positioned so it
is centered on the fuselage tail section.

Step 3 photo

Step 4. Remove the rudder from the vertical fin. Using a 3/32" drill

bit, drill into the exact center of the rudder as marked to accept the tail
wheel wire as shown. It may be helpful to drill a 1/16" pilot hole first.

Step 5. Cut a slot and groove into the back of the fuselage as
marked to accept the nylon tail wheel bearing. There are various
methods to make an opening in the fuselage tail section for the
tail wheel bearing. The following procedure is the one we used to
mount the tail wheel assembly. Use a Dremel®cutting wheel to cut
a grove in the fuselage tail section that is centered. Next, use a
keyhole saw blade to enlarge the opening for the tail wheel bearing.

Drill
Drill Bits: 1/16", 3/32"
Felt-tipped pen
Paper towels
Rubbing alcohol
Toothpicks (optional)

25

Step 6. Trial fit the tail wheel assembly and rudder in place.
Deflect the rudder, making sure the tail wheel turns freely with
the rudder.

Step 7. When you’re satisfied with the fit, remove the tail wheel
assembly from the fuselage. Reinstall the hinges in the vertical
fin and fuselage using T-pins to make sure the hinges are
centered. The hinges will be CA'd after the next step.

Step 8. Mix approximately 1/4 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and
apply it to both the nylon bearing where it goes into the fuselage
and into the hole in the rudder. A toothpick applicator may be
helpful in getting the epoxy into the holes. Reassemble the tail
wheel assembly and the rudder onto the vertical fin and fuselage.
Make sure the rudder is aligned properly (up and down). Wipe
away any excess epoxy with a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Allow the epoxy to cure completely before hinging the rudder.

Step 9. With the rudder and tail wheel assembly installed,
apply thin CA glue to the rudder hinges on both sides, using
the same techniques learned in Section 1. Be sure to remove
the T-pins before applying the CA. There should be a minimal
gap between the rudder and vertical fin/fuselage.

Step 10. Wipe away any excess CA with CA remover. After the
hinges are dry, check that they are securely in place by trying to
pull the rudder from the vertical fin/fuselage.

Step 11. Work the rudder back and forth (left and right). Check
to make sure movement is free and that the tail wheel assembly
tracks accordingly.

Step 12. Slide the tail wheel onto the wire. Next, slide the wheel
collar on the wire and tighten the screw in the wheel collar. Use
Blue Locktite Z-42 to secure the collar in place.

Note: The wheel must rotate freely with only a small
amount of side play. It may be necessary to drill out the tail
wheel slightly so the wheel will spin freely on the axle.

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tail Wheel

CONTINUED

26

Standard control horns (4)
Plastic plates (2)
Screws (6)
Nuts (2)
Fuselage
Rudder
Elevators (2)

Phillips screwdriver
Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Ruler
Felt-tipped pen
Masking tape

Step 1. Locate the four standard control horns, two plastic
plates, six screws, and two nuts. Two horns will be used for the
elevators and two will be used on the rudder.

Step 2. It will be helpful to turn the aircraft upside down. For
illustration purposes, we will describe installing the control horn
on the right elevator first (as relates to pilot sitting in cockpit).
Measure 1/2" in from the inboard end of the elevator as shown
below. Make a mark with a felt-tipped pen.

Step 3. Locate one control horn and trial fit the horn on the
elevator with the edge closest to the fuselage adjacent to the
mark you made in Step 2.

Step 4. Position the horn so the holes for the clevis are directly
over the hinge line of the elevator/horizontal stabilizer. When
you’re satisfied with the position, mark the screw holes with a
felt-tipped pen.

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Hinge Line

27

Step 5. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill two holes through the
elevator so the control horn can be mounted.

Hint: It's helpful to cover the area around the control horn
top and bottom so the covering is not accidentally damaged.

Step 6. Attach the elevator control horn using the hardware
provided (two screws and backplate) and fasten it in place using
a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 7. Attach the other control horn to the opposite elevator
half using the same method.

Step 8. Install the rudder control horns on the left and right
side of the rudder. Measure up 1

3

/8" from the bottom of the
rudder on one side as shown below. You will find the control
horn will be centered on the black trim line of the rudder. This
will serve as the reference point and represent where the bottom
edge of the control horn will be located.

Step 9. Place one control horn adjacent to the mark you made
in Step 8. Position it so the clevis holes are lined up over the
hinge line of the rudder and vertical fin, similar to the procedure
in Step 4.

Step 10. Once you’re satisfied with the location, mark the
screw holes with a pencil or felt-tipped pen, through the holes
in the horn into the rudder. Make sure the horn is centered over
the hinge line.

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

CONTINUED

28

Step 11. Drill the holes with a 1/16" drill bit. Install a rudder
control horn on both sides of the rudder with two screws and
two nuts. Again, make sure the control horns are centered over
the hinge line.

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

CONTINUED

29

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear and Wheel Pants

Main landing gear (2)
Main landing gear straps (4)
Self-tapping screws (8
Wheel pants (2)
Axles and mounting hardware
Wheel pant mounting hardware
Wheels 2 3/4"

30-minute epoxy
Epoxy brush
Mixing Stick
Pencil
Hobby knife
Drill
Drill Bits: 1/8", 5/32", 1/4"

Step 1. Trial fit the main landing gear to the bottom of the fuselage.

Step 2. The main gear is positioned 3 5/8" back from the firewall

as shown above. With the main gear in position, mark the bolt hole
locations on the fuselage using a sharp pencil or felt-tipped pen.

Step 3. Use a 1/8" drill bit and drill the main landing gear bolt
holes in the fuselage bottom.

Step 4. Locate the landing gear mounting bolts, washers and
nuts. Mount the main landing gear to the fuselage,

Step 5. The main wheels will be installed as part of the
installation of the main landing gear in later steps.

Step 6. The final assembly of the landing gear (shock
assembly) will take place after the wheel pants are mounted.

Phillips screwdriver (medium)
Round file
Paper towels
Sandpaper
Ruler

30

Installation of Wheel Pants

Step 7. Locate the two wheel pants and associated hardware,

including the two 11/8" square plywood pieces that go inside the
wheel pants. Slide one wheel onto an axle and position them so
they are centered over the wheel opening in one of the wheel
pants. Use a felt-tipped pen or pencil to mark the center location
of the wheel on each of the wheel pants. This mark will be used
as the reference point for marking the mounting holes for the
landing gear on the wheel pant.

Step 8. Locate the hole for the wheel axle 5/8" measured up from
the bottom of the wheel pant centered on the mark made in Step 7.
Mark with a felt-tipped pen or pencil. Repeat the procedure for the
other wheel pant.

Caution: Notice which side of the wheel pant goes against
the landing gear before making your mark.

Note: It is sometimes helpful to remove the main landing
gear from the fuselage to make these markings and
adjustments called for in the following steps.

Step 9. Locate the two plywood square pieces (1

1

/8" square)
included with the wheel pants. These will be epoxied inside the
wheel pants as a brace or reinforcement for mounting the wheel
pant to the landing gear. Use a pencil to mark the position of the
plywood squares inside the wheel pants.

Step 10. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy.
Epoxy both plywood pieces to the inside of each wheel pant. We
recommend using a square piece of fiberglass cloth to cover the
wood squares, coating with 30-minute epoxy. The use of the
cloth will add strength to the plywood/wheel pant bond. Allow
the epoxy to cure completely before attempting to drill any axle
or mounting holes for the wheel pants. We suggest allowing it to
cure overnight.

Step 11. Note the aluminum landing gear has a large hole (for
the axle) and a smaller hole above it. This smaller hole will be
used to secure the wheel pant in the proper position. Do not
mark the small hole yet.

Step 12. Drill the main axle hole using a 1/4" drill bit. It is
helpful to start with a 1/8" pilot hole first, then use progressively
larger bits until you get to the 1/4" size. Once the hole is drilled,
trial fit the axle to the opening again. You may have to enlarge
the hole further by using a Dremel®moto-tool. Use a fine round
file to make final adjustments to the opening. Repeat the process
for the other wheel pant.

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear and Wheel Pants

CONTINUED

31

Step 13. Use caution that you do not split the wood.

Step 14. Locate the axle, lock nut, wheel and two wheel collars.

Mount both axles to the main landing gear using the large lock
nuts. Once mounted, you will have to trim each axle to an overall
length of 1

7

/16" using a moto-tool and a cut-off wheel. Use

caution when cutting the axles and wear protective goggles.

Step 15. The wheel pant can be trial fitted to the landing
gear/axle. You may find you will have to open up the large axle
hole a bit with a round file. Adjust the wheel pant in reference to
the bottom of the fuselage so the bottom of the wheel pant is
parallel to the bottom of the fuselage. When you are satisfied
with the relationship, mark the small hole opening onto the
wheel pant. This mark can be made by passing a small drill bit
through the hole and marking the surface of the wheel pant.
Remove the wheel pant and drill a 3/32" hole in the wheel pant
as marked.

Step 16. Repeat Step 15 for the other wheel pant.

Step 17. Epoxy a 4-40 blind nut into the small hole drilled

in the wheel pant/plywood brace inside the wheel pant. Allow
the epoxy to cure completely before attempting to tighten the
bolt down.

Step 18. Mount the wheel pant to the axle and screw in the
4-40 bolt into the small hole above the axle, so that it screws
into the blind nut. Be sure to include the black clip between the
bolt and main gear as this will be used later to connect the music
wire shock system to the main landing gear. Before tightening
the 4-40 bolt, slide on a wheel collar, the wheel and another
wheel collar onto the axle.

Step 19. Tighten down the 4-40 bolt to secure the wheel pant to
the landing gear. Position the wheel in the center of the wheel
pant opening, and retain it there by positioning the two wheel
collars (on either side of the wheel) so that the wheel is kept in
the center of the wheel pant opening. Tighten both wheel collar
screws snugly once the wheel is properly positioned.

Note: A drop of Locktite Z-42 on the wheel collar screws
will help keep them from coming lose during operation.
Repeat the process for the other wheel.

Step 20. Locate the two black "J" shaped pieces of music wire,
two nylon clevis, two wood screws, and two washers. Thread the
two nylon clevis onto the threaded ends of the "J" shaped wires.
Attach the clevis to the black clip attached to the main landing
gear. The other ends are attached to the main gear with the black
clips and wood screws and washers provided as shown below.

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear and Wheel Pants

CONTINUED

32

Section 11: Installing the Engine (Glow)

Fuselage
Metal engine mounts (2)
Mounting hardware
Engine

Phillips screwdriver
Allen wrench
30-minute epoxy
Epoxy brush
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Note: When any engine is properly mounted the distance

from the engine firewall to the back of the engine drive
washer should be 6".

Step 1. Mix a 50/50 1-ounce mixture of 30-minute epoxy and
rubbing alcohol. Brush it on the entire firewall area to seal it from
fuel. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

Caution: Do not get epoxy into any of the predrilled holes.
With some engines like the MDS™1.48 engine, you will
need to use the plywood spacer. Be sure to apply the
epoxy/alcohol mix to seal it as well.

Step 2. Locate the two metal engine mounts and associated
hardware (4 blind nuts, 4.5 mm screws and nuts, 4.5 mm screws
and nuts, and washers). Note the larger screws will be used to
mount the metal motor mount to the firewall.

Step 3. Before you mount the engine mounts, note there are
slots in the firewall, so the width of the space between the mounts
can be adjusted. This will allow mounting of engines with
different size crankcases. A square 3/4" plywood spacer will be
used to mount some engines (such as the MDS™1.48 engine) so
that they are positioned at the proper distance from the firewall as
shown. The Saito™ FA-180 does not require a spacer.

Step 4. Mount the metal engine mounts on the firewall using
the hardware provided. Do not over-tighten the screws until you
have done a trial fit of the engine on the mount to finalize the
space required.

Note: It will be necessary to insert a long piece of music
wire (not provided) through the fuselage/firewall and place
a blind nut on the wire so it can be guided into position for
the bottom screw hole in the firewall. Repeat this process
for the other holes.

33

Step 5. Trial fit your engine on the motor mount. Once the
proper width has been confirmed, tighten the screws on the
metal motor mounts. You can remove your engine at this point
while completing the following sections. Prior to installing the
control linkages, you will want to remount your engine.

Section 11: Installing the Engine (Glow)

CONTINUED

34

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 12: Installing the Engine (Gas)

Fuselage
Dowel standoffs (4 round wood mounts)
Mounting hardware
4-4 mm x 25 mm flathead screws
4-4 m x 30 mm machine screws
4-4 mm nuts, 4-4 mm washers
Engine

Phillips screwdriver
Allen wrench
Ball driver
30-minute epoxy
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Kill-switch and hardware (required but not included in kit)

Step 1. When installing the Zenoah®G-23 Gasoline engine,
there are two things that are important to keep in mind. First,
provision for a "kill" or "shut-off" switch is a requirement for
safety. Second, the G-23 engine's weight may require tail weight,
such as a battery, being moved rearward or even lead weight
added to the tail. Otherwise the aircraft could be nose-heavy and
unsafe to fly. Be sure to read Section 20, "Balancing the Aircraft,"
and make sure the aircraft is balanced before any attempt to fly.

Step 2. Seal the round motor mount dowels and firewall by
mixing approximately 1 ounce of a 50/50 mixture of 30-minute
epoxy and rubbing alcohol. Brush it on the entire firewall area
and wood motor spacers to seal them from fuel. Allow the epoxy
to cure completely.

Caution: Do not get epoxy into any of the predrilled holes.

Step 3. After the epoxy has dried, prepare to mount the Zenoah

G-23. First, locate the 4 mm x 25 mm flat head machine screws.

Step 4. Mount the engine/dowel standoffs to the firewall using
the 4 mm x 30 mm machine screws, nuts, and washers.

Note: It will be necessary to insert a long piece of music
wire (not provided) through the fuselage/firewall and place
a blind nut on the wire so it can be guided into position
for the bottom screw hole in the firewall. Repeat for the
other holes.

Step 5. Instructions on throttle linkage installation and cowl
installation will be covered in Sections 15 and 16.

35

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 13: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank (Glow/Gas)

Brass tube, long (vent)
Brass tube, long (fuel)
Clunk (fuel pickup)
Fuel tubing, small (glow)
Fuel tank
Plastic cap (2)
Rubber stopper (glow and gas)
3 mm screw
Fuel tubing, gas (not supplied, DUB554/AER1073)

Hobby knife
Phillips screwdriver (medium)

Step 1. Locate the tank parts.

Step 2. Locate the black stopper. This stopper is made of

material that allows use of glow fuel or gasoline. Insert one
brass tube into one of the open holes in the stopper so an equal
amount of tube extends from each side. This tube will be the fuel
tank pickup tube that provides fuel to the engine.

Step 3. Slide the smaller of the two plastic caps over the brass
tube on one side of the black rubber stopper so the small "peg"
faces away from the stopper, toward the inside of the fuel tank.
The longer cap is placed on the other side of the rubber stopper
so the raised center "faces away" from the rubber stopper.

Step 4. Locate the other brass tube and bend it using your
finders as shown. This tube will be the fuel tank vent tube.

Step 5. Slide the vent tube into the other open hole of the
stopper as shown.

Step 6. Note the orientation of the tubes and plastic caps.
Make sure the vent tube is positioned correctly.

36

Step 7. Locate the fuel tubing. This tubing will be used for the
fuel pickup inside the fuel tank. Insert the clunk into one end of
the fuel tubing.

Step 8. Install the open tube end of the tubing onto the pickup
brass tubing.

Step 9. Insert the 3 mm screw into the center hole of the larger
plastic cap and tighten until it just threads into the black cap on
the other side of the rubber stopper.

Step 10. Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank. Note
the position of the vent tube. It must be at the top portion of the
fuel tank to function properly. Be sure the vent is positioned at
the top. Shorten the length of the tubing by cutting it with a
sharp hobby knife.

Step 11. Tighten the 3 mm screw. This will allow the rubber
stopper to form a seal.

Important: Remember which tube is the fuel pickup and
which is the vent so you can properly connect the fuel tank
to the engine. You may want to mark one of the tubes with a
piece of masking tape identifying which one it is (i.e., either
"V" or "F").

Step 12. Install the fuel tubing onto the two tubes and feed
through the holes in the firewall as you press the fuel tank into
position. Foam can be used in the tank compartment to provide
some vibration damping and help support the fuel tank (foam not
provided). Some trimming of the fuel tank location may be
necessary to fit the tank into the fuselage. Bend the brass tube
outside the tank to line up with the holes in the firewall.

Note: The rubber stopper provided is compatible for use
with glow or gasoline engines. If you are going to install a
Zenoah

®

G-23 or other gasoline engine, be sure you
replace the fuel tubing with material that is compatible with
gasoline engines.

Caution: Do not use silicone tubing with a gasoline­powered engine. It is not compatible.

CONTINUED

Section 13: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank (Glow/Gas)

37

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 14: Installing the Radio

4-channel radio system with 5 servos
Fuselage
Radio packing foam (not included)
Hardwood pieces (2) 1" square 1/16" thick

Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Phillips screwdriver (small)
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Felt-tipped pen or pencil
6-minute epoxy
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Epoxy brush

Step 1. Install the grommets and eye-lets on the three servos
as per the instructions included with your radio. With the servos
temporarily in place, note how much room there is between the
servo arms, and the orientation of the servos.

Note: The elevator servo will be the one positioned to
the left side of the fuselage. We will raise the elevator servo
6 mm to clear the pull-pull linkage from the rudder push
rod linkage.

Step 2. Once you’re satisfied with the servo placement, mark
the mounting holes for the rudder and throttle servos. Remove all
of the servos from the tray, except the elevator servo.

Step 3. Locate the two pieces of 1" square x 1/16" thick
plywood. Cut in half and epoxy together to make two 1/8" thick
pieces. These will be used to raise the elevator servo up high
enough to clear the rudder servo in the middle of the servo tray.
Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit the two plywood pieces to the
elevator servo so that the servo is positioned higher. Mark where
the plywood pieces are located on the tray. Remove the servo
and plywood pieces.

Step 4. Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and glue the two
hardwood pieces to the servo tray. Let the epoxy cure completely
before proceeding to the next step.

Step 5. Trial fit the elevator servo and mark the servo screw
holes with a felt-tipped pen. Remove the servo and drill the
12 holes for all three servos using a 1/16" drill bit. Screw the
servos in place using the 12 screws provided with the servos.

38

Step 6. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobby
shop) when you install the receiver and battery pack. There is
ample room for the battery pack in the forward part of the
fuselage. Place as far forward as possible to help balance the
model. The receiver is mounted to the plywood servo tray in the
fuselage using rubber bands as shown below. Be sure to wrap
the battery and receiver securely with foam when you install them
in the fuselage.

Step 7. Route the antenna back through the fuselage using an
antenna tube (not included), or route it outside the fuselage back
to the vertical fin. Install the switch on the left side of the rear
fuselage so that it is easily accessible.

Step 8. Mount the switch harness. Connect the three servos in
the fuselage to the receiver and then connect the switch harness
to the receiver and battery pack as outlined in your radio's
instructions. Turn on your transmitter and receiver and center
your transmitter trims. Then turn off the receiver, then the
transmitter in that order. Your servos will now be in the
"electrical zero" position. Make sure your servo horns are
positioned to reflect this "neutral" or "0" position, as
measurements for your control linkages depend on correct
positioning of the servo arms, both mechanically and
electrically.

Section 14: Installing the Radio

CONTINUED

39

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

Fuselage
6" rod threaded on one end (1)
12" rod threaded on one end (2)
Nyrod throttle pushrod assembly
Wood pushrod 19 3/4

" (1)
Clevis (4)
Control horns (2)
Screws (4)
.020 music wire 36" (2)
Threaded couplers (4)
Hex nuts (2)

Soldering iron
Silver solder (Stay Brite)
Needle-nose pliers
6-minute epoxy
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels
Drill
Drill Bit: 1/8"
Heat shrink tubing

Step 1. The elevator linkage will be the first to be described.
Locate the components for the elevator control linkage, made up
of a wooden pushrod, three threaded rods (12", 6") three clevis,
two pieces of nylon thread, three clevis keepers, and three jam
nuts. Since the Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft uses a split elevator,
you will construct a Y-pushrod that has two threaded rods on
one end of the wooden pushrod for the two elevators, and one
shorter threaded rod to connect to the servo arm.

Step 2. Using either a pencil or felt-tipped pen, mark
1 1/2" from each end of the hardwood pushrod (2 places).

Step 3. Drill a 1/8" hole through the hardwood pushrod at one
marked end. Drill a 1/8" hole at the other end marked so it is 90°
in reference to the first hole drilled.

Step 4. At one end you drilled the 1/8" hole, make a second
mark 1 3/4" from the end.

40

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

Step 5. Drill a 1/8" hole at this mark. This end of the hardwood

dowel will be used as the end for the split elevators. Two of the
12" threaded rods will be installed at this end.

Step 6. Locate the two 12" threaded rods. Using needle-nose
pliers, bend a 90-degree angle at the opposite end of the threaded
portion of each rod. The bent section should be 3/16" long. Cut
off any excess material so the rods will fit into the holes of the
hardwood pushrod without the ends extending out of the hole on
the other side.

Step 7. Using the pattern shown below as a reference, bend the
two threaded 12" rods the approximate angle the diagram shows.
These are only approximate, final adjustment will be made when
fitting the control rods to each elevator control horn.

Step 8. Trial fit the two 12" threaded rods into the holes on
either side of the wood pushrod.

Step 9. Once you're satisfied with the fit, mix a small amount of
6-minute epoxy and apply it to the holes and areas the rods will
fit into. Coat the joint with epoxy, wrap with half of the nylon
thread provided and allow it to cure.

Step 10. Carefully cut away the covering at the tail of the
fuselage where the pushrods exit. Note there are two cutouts on
each side. The ones closest to the horizontal stabilizer are for the
elevator pushrods to exit. The ones farther away from the
horizontal stabilizer are the rudder pull-pull cable exits.

Step 11. Spread the two threaded pushrods apart approximately
1 1/

2 - 2". Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuselage so that each

threaded rod comes out of the elevator pushrod exits. Thread a
clevis onto each threaded rod several turns. As extra insurance, it is
a good idea to place metal clevis keeper over a clevis to prevent the
clevis from accidentally opening in flight.

CONTINUED

11/2"8

Wood Pushrod

1

/2"

1

8

/2"1"

41

Step 12. If the elevator servo has not been electrically
centered, now is the time to do so. Refer to Section 14, Step 9.

Step 13. The short 6" threaded rod will be attached to the
wooden pushrod next. Thread a clevis on the threaded end of the
wire. In order to determine the length of the rod needed, we
suggest you use masking tape to temporarily attach the rod to
the wooden pushrod.

Step 14. With the elevator clevis attached to the elevator control
horns and the servo arm pushrod temporarily taped to the wood
pushrod, measure the rod end hat will attach to the elevator servo
arm. Use masking tape to hold both elevators in the neutral
position. With the elevators at neutral and the servo arm
electrically centered, position the servo end of the wire over the
2nd hole from the center of the servo arm. Mark the music wire at
the location where the bend will go into the hole in the pushrod.

Step 15. Once you’re satisfied with the dimensions of the
elevator servo pushrod wire, remove the wire from the wooden
pushrod and make the L-bend at the location you marked. Trim
off any excess wire. Trial fit the music wire rod to the hole in the
wooden pushrod to make sure it fits flush against the wooden
pushrod. It will be helpful to remove the complete elevator
pushrod assembly for the next step.

Step 16. When you’re satisfied with the fit, mix a small amount
of 6-minute epoxy and apply to the hole and area where the rod
will fit. Coat with epoxy, wrap with nylon, and allow to cure
completely.

Step 17. Before attempting to reinstall the completed elevator
pushrod, make sure the epoxy has cured completely.

Step 18. Reinstall the elevator pushrod and clevises and attach
to the elevator control horns and elevator servo arm. Make any
necessary mechanical adjustments so the elevators are at nuetral
when the servo arm is electrically centered. Adjustments can be
made by screwing the clevis in or out, and moving the rod in or
out on the servo arm. We suggest you install 5–7 mm sections
of fuel tubing over each of the clevises to make sure they do not
open accidentally.

Step 19. The rudder pull-pull type of linkage is made up of
music wire (.020), four threaded couplers, two clevis, screws,
and hex nuts. You will make up two sets of linkages.

Step 20. Scrape or clean the ends of each piece of music wire.
Using a soldering iron, silver solder one of the threaded couplers
on one end of each piece of music wire.

Note: It’s important to bend over approximately 3/8" of the
music wire onto itself at the ends using some pliers. This
will give a more secure mechanical solder joint as the silver
solder has more to "grab onto" than a straight end.

Step 21. After the solder has cooled, check the security of the
solder joint by pulling on the connection. Attach a clevis on the
threaded coupler and insert the other end through the fuselage.
Attach the clevis to one of the rudder control horns. Do the same
with the other pull-pull linkage. Note that we have removed two
of the servo arms to allow more freedom of movement.

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

CONTINUED

Step 22. Trial fit one of the linkages to the servo arm of the
rudder servo, compensating for the fact there will be a threaded
coupler and clevis attached. Once you're satisfied with the
length, silver solder the threaded coupler to the music wire as
described in Step 20. After the solder has cooled, again check
the security of the joint. Make up the second linkage using the
previous procedure. Once both linkages have been constructed,
trial fit in place by installing the clevis on each linkage and
connecting to the arm of the rudder servo. Final length
adjustments can be made at either or both ends of a linkage
by screwing the clerisies in and out as needed. You can also
move the clevis closer in or further out on the horn/arm. Be sure
to use 5–7 mm sections of fuel tubing over each clevis to
prevent accidental opening. Adjust the cable tension so that it is
slightly tight but not overly tight.

Step 23. To install the throttle linkage, you will have to remount
your engine nylon push rod. To install the throttle pushrod, locate
the nylon pushrod and thread a threaded coupler into one end. The
Z-bend portion will be installed later after fitting the throttle pushrod
to length. Install a clevis onto the threaded end 10 –12 turns. This
clevis will be used to connect the throttle arm to the throttle servo.
Trial fit the rod and note where it will pass through the fuselage
formers. The location of the opening in the firewall for the pushrod
will depend on the type of engine installed. We show the installation
of a MDS

™

1.48 2-stroke engine to illustrate the steps in the
installation and adjustment of the throttle linkage. Once you have
determined the linkage path, use a 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole in the
firewall and fuselage formers as necessary. A 1/8" hole should
provide ample room for linkage operation.

Caution: Before drilling, be sure to remove the fuel tank so
it will not be punctured during drilling.

Step 24. Insert the throttle control rod through the firewall
unconnected end first. Attach the clevis to the engine throttle
control arm.

Step 25. Note where the throttle control rod is in relation to the
throttle servo arm in the fuselage. Make sure the carburetor is half
open and that the servo is at its electrical center position. You will
then position the threaded Z-bend wire over the servo arm (in neutral
or electrical 0 position and the end of the nyrod that extends into the
fuselage. Use a felt-tipped pen to mark where the nyrod part of the
linkage needs to be cut so the wire Z-bend can be screwed into the
nyrod. Cut the nyrod at the marked location and thread the Z-form onto
the end of the nyrod. Attach the Z-bend to the servo arm and check the
relationship of the fit. You may find some adjustments necessary to
make sure rod will fits the servo arm at the proper length.

42

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

CONTINUED

43

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

CONTINUED

Step 26. The Z-bend is attached to the servo arm in the second

hole from the end of the arm. Minor adjustments to the carburetor
opening can be made by screwing the clevis in or out. Begin your
adjustments with the throttle set at the half open position when the
arm of the servo and the rod are 90° to each other and the servo is
electrically centered.

Step 27. Make a pushrod brace from scrap wood to attach the
pushrod outer sleeve to the servo tray, as shown below.

Step 28. Double-check the alignment of the elevator, rudder
and throttle linkages. Don't forget the ailerons. Adjustments can
be made at two points for each linkage, at the servo arm and at
the control horn. Sometimes it only takes one adjustment, other
times it requires both adjustments. Once you have made all of
your mechanical adjustments, you can then proceed to make any
electrical adjustments through you transmitter, if applicable.
Check each clevis to make sure there is a metal clip over each
clevis to prevent accidental opening. Tighten all jam nuts on the
aileron linkages. Also, check to make sure the linkage movement
is free for each control. There should be no binding of any of the
control surfaces or linkages.

44

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives NeededParts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling

Fiberglass cowling
Machine screws (4)
Washers (4)
Grommets (4)

Drill
Drill Bit: 1/16"
Masking tape
Moto-tool with sanding drum
Carbide cutter

Step 1. Trial fit the cowl to your fuselage. Note the areas
needing to be trimmed out, such as needle valve openings,
external fill opening, etc.

Step 2. Mark the location of the needle valve, cylinder head,
and muffler with a felt-tipped pen. For illustration purposes, we
are showing the openings for the MDS™1.48 engine mounted in
the Taylorcraft.

Step 3. Carefully cut out using a moto-tool.

Note: If you’re using another type of engine, it will be

necessary to carefully cut portions of the cowl that are
located differently from where it is shown with the
installation of the MDS™1.48.

Step 4. Slide the cowling onto the fuselage.

Note: It may be necessary to trial fit the cowl with and

without the muffler attached to the engine.

Step 5. Tape the cowl securely in position and check that it fits
correctly. There should be ample clearance (1/8" around the
engine and muffler). Also check that the prop drive flange (prop
driver) is centered in the opening of the cowl and that the flange
(driver) extends at least 3/16" forward of the cowl.

Sanding stick
Ruler
Felt-tipped pen
Phillips screwdriver

6"

45

Step 6. Locate the cowl hold down screw locations. The use of
a paper template will ease location of screw holes in cowl.

Step 7. Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill pilot holes in the cowl.

Note: Be sure the cowl is pulled down tightly and held

securely prior to drilling a hole. As each hole is drilled,
check to make sure the cowl has not moved. Insert the
rubber grommets into the holes to help reduce vibration
and subsequent cracking of the cowling. Use blind nuts to
mount the cowl to the fuselage.

Step 8. Epoxy the cooling shroud (scoop) to the top of the cowl.

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling

CONTINUED

46

Section 17: Attaching the Windshield,

Side Windows, and Overhead Window

Fuselage
Windshield, side windows (7 pcs)
Wing skylight window (1 pc)

Phillips screwdriver
Scissors
Canopy Glue (Pacer Formula 560)
Masking tape
Small self-tapping screws (4)
Trim film/tape

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Step 1. Locate the windshield, side windows and overhead

window. Note the raised lines outlining the frames.

Step 2. Carefully trim the windshield and side windows,
making sure not to remove too much material. Trial fit the
overhead window to see if any trimming is needed. Periodically
check the fit of the windshield and side windows to the fuselage
while trimming.

Step 3. Trial fit the windshield and side windows to the fuselage.

Step 4. After confirming the fit of the windshield and side

windows, attach the side windows to the fuselage from the inside
using canopy glue. Use masking tape to hold the side windows
in place while the glue dries. Allow at least 24 hours to dry.

Step 5. Four small wood screws and canopy glue are used to
secure the front windshield to the fuselage, located on either side
of the fuselage, as shown below.

47

Section 17: Attaching the Windshield,

Side Windows, and Overhead Window

Step 6. After the windshield is firmly in place, apply trim film to

the frame outlines on the windshield for a more finished look.

Step 7. The cabin overhead window is held in place with
canopy glue and wood screws with washers. Trial fit the
overhead window to the opening in the wing center section. Mark
the location using a pencil or felt tipped pen. Also mark the
location the four screws will be positioned to hold the overhead
window in place.

Step 8. Use a 1/16" drill bit to drill holes in the clear overhead
window. Place the overhead window in position on the wing
center at the location previously marked in Step 7, and mark the
location of the screws onto the wing center section using a
pencil or felt-tipped pen.

Step 9. Attach the overhead window to the wing center section
using canopy glue and the four screws. Use masking tape to
hold in position until the glue cures (at least 24 hours).

CONTINUED

48

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives NeededParts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 18: Assembling and Installing the Wing Struts/Tail Braces

Wing
Fuselage
Precovered right/left wing struts
Prebent music wire
Aluminum tail brace pieces (6) (54 at 12 1/4")
Wing strut and tail brace hardware (22 at 11 3/8")

Threadlock
Phillips screwdriver
Pencil or felt-tipped pen

Step 1. Locate the wing strut and tail brace material and their
associated hardware.

Step 2. Locate the mounting points for the wing struts in each
wing panel. The holes are small and the covering will have to be
cut away to expose the blind nuts mounted in the wing to accept
the wing struts mounting screws.

Step 3. Locate the mounting points for the struts on either side
of the main landing gear.

Step 4. Attach the wing to the fuselage if you have not done so.
Next, attach each wing strut to the wing using the screws and
washers provided.

Step 5. The struts are attached to the main gear using
a screw, nut, and washer.

49

Tail Braces

Step 5. Locate the tail brace pieces (6) and mounting hardware.

Step 6. Trial fit a tail brace on the side of the fin and top of the

stabilizer. Mark the screw hole location with a pencil or felt­tipped pen.

Note: The smaller four braces are installed on the bottom
of the stabilizer.

Step 7. Check the marks you made to make sure the tail brace
is aligned properly, as shown below.

Step 8. Use a drill and 1/16" drill bit to drill holes in the
stabilizer and rudder at the locations you marked.

Step 9. Mount the tail brace to the fin first, using the hardware
provided. On the stabilizer, pass the screws through the holes in
each side, and trial fit the bottom tail braces to the stabilizer/
fuselage sides. Mount the bottom tail braces to the stabilizer and
fuselage using the provided self tapping screws (4), screws (4),
and nuts (4).

Section 18: Assembling and Installing the Wing Struts/Tail Braces

CONTINUED

50

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 19: Application of Decals and Scale Detailing

Fuselage
Wing

Scissors
Ruler

Note: Refer to the box as reference for decal placement.

Placement of Decals:

Step 1. Locate the decal sheet provided in the kit.

Step 2. Trial fit the decals in position before removing the decal

backing. Once you’re satisfied with the location, proceed to
remove the backing and apply the decal. Use a soft cloth to rub
out any bubbles in the decal. You can also use window cleaner
applied to the surface to help position the decal.

Instrument Panel

Step 3. An instrument panel can be installed in the Taylorcraft’s

cockpit. A decal is provided for this purpose, or a ready-made
instrument panel Hangar 9 is also available. To install the
instrument panel decal, trim and trial fit to the fuselage former
above the fuel tank where the front windshield is mounted.

Finishing the cockpit and Installing Pilot’s Seat

Step 4. Before installing the scale seat, you will need to mount

the seat rails to the floor of the cockpit. Once mounted, paint the
interior of the fuselage cockpit a matching white color. We used
Tamiya’s acrylic white paint. The throttle linkage covering was
painted a light gray color. After the paint dries, attach strips of
velcro to the two rails and to the bottom of the scale seat. The
velcro will be used to hold the seat in place and make it easily
removable if necessary. The seat can also be glued in place.

(Step 4 photo)

Step 5. Glue the gray foam seat cushions to the seat using

silicone glue or similar adhesive.

Step 6. Mount the seat to the seat floor rails using the Velcro

®

strips to hold it in place.

Pilot

Step 7. A full body pilot can be added to the cockpits to

provide a more realistic appearance.

Decals
Pilot (optional)

51

Section 20: Control Throw Recommendations

The following control throws offer a good place to start with for
your first flights. If only one rate is available on your radio, set
up the control throws for low rate for the first flights, then
increase the throws to your liking.

Recommended Control Throws

Standard

Aileron 3/4" Up 5/8" Down
Elevator 1 1/8" Up 1" Down
Rudder 2" Left/Right

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. This is especially important when various
engines are mounted.

Caution: Do not inadvertently neglect this step!!

The recommended C.G. (center of gravity) location for the first
flights with the Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft is 4 1/4" inches from the
leading edge of the wing.

If necessary, move the batter pack or add weight either to the tail
or nose until the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on weights
are available at your local hobby ship and work well for this
purpose.

Section 21: Balancing the Clipped-Wing Taylorcraft

52

Preflight at the Field

Range Test Your Radio

Step 1. Before each flying session, range check your radio.

This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the
antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. With your
airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30 paces
away from your airplane and still have complete control of all
functions. If not, don't attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment
checked out by the manufacturer.

Step 2. Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator,
throttle, rudder) move in the correct direction.

Step 3. Before you fly, be sure that your batteries are fully
charged per the instructions included with your radio.

Adjusting Your Radio

Step 1. Completely read the instructions included with your

engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure.

Step 2. At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting
at full throttle and adjust the idle and low speed needle so that a
consistent idle is achieved.

Step 3. Before you fly be sure that your engine idles reliably,
transitions, and runs at all throttle settings. Only when this is
achieved should any plane be considered ready for flight.

53

Effective January 1, 2001

Model flying must be in accordance with this code in order for
AMA Liability Protection to apply.

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven
airworthy by having been successfully flight tested previously.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet
within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator.
I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full­scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to
supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying
site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models
in a careless, reckless, and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established, in front of which all flying takes place and the other
side designated for spectators. Only personnel involved with
flying the aircraft are allowed in front of the flight line. Flying
over the spectator side of the line is prohibited, unless beyond
the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum permissible
takeoff weight of the models with fuel is 55 pounds.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a single straight
line must be established, one side of which is for flying and the
other side designated for spectators. Only those persons
accredited by the contest director or other appropriate officials as
necessary for flight operations or having duties or functions
relating to the conduct of the show or demonstration are to be
permitted on the flying side of the line. The only exceptions
which may be permitted to the single straight line requirements,
under special circumstances involving consideration of site
conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must be
jointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive
Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weights over 20 pounds,
I will fly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the
AMA Safety Code.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and
address or AMA number on or in the model. (This does not
apply to models while being flown indoors.)

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with
gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internal
combustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely
hazardous fuels, such as those containing tetranitromethane or
hydrazine.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that
explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including,
but not limited to, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from
models, smoke bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen­filled balloons), or ground-mounted devices launching a
projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets flown in
accordance with the National Model Rocketry Safety Code or
those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those items
authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory
Committee (document available from AMA HQ). Models using
rocket motors as a primary means of propulsion are limited to a
maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. (A model
aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without an engine, not
able to carry a human being.)

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal
flow) unless I have obtained a special waiver for such specific
operations from the AMA President and Executive Director, and I
will abide by any restriction(s) imposed for such operation by
them. (This does not apply to ducted fan models using piston
engines or electric motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to nor during
participation in any model operations.

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
range check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft near spectators until I become a
qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or
spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator
areas, unless beyond by control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
(Only properly licensed amateurs are authorized to operate
equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a
pre-existing model club flying site without a frequency-sharing
agreement with that club.

6. Models flown in air-to-air combat are limited to maximum
total engine displacement of .30 cubic inches and a maximum
dry weight prior to flying of 4 pounds.

7. An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule Book event,
is one in which model aircraft compete in flight over a prescribed
course with the objective of finishing the course faster to
determine the winner.

AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

54

Effective January 1, 2001

AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

ORGANIZED RC RACING EVENT

A. In every organized racing event in which contestants, callers,
and officials are on the course:

1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly wear
helmets which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL, or NOCSAE
approved or comparable standard while on the race course.

2. All officials must be off the course except for the starter and
his/her assistant.

3. "On the course" is defined as any area beyond the
pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.

B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized racing event
which does not comply with paragraph A above or which allows
models over 20 pounds unless that competition event is AMA
sanctioned.

Note: Refer to AMA Headquarters for Free Flight, Control
Line, boat, car and rocket safety codes. ACADEMY OF
MODEL AERONAUTICS, 5161 EAST MEMORIAL DRIVE,
MUNCIE, INDIANA 47302-9252

55

Notes:

©2001 Horizon Hobby, Inc.

4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822

www.horizonhobby.com

HAN1850.46