Hangar 9 CAP 232G ARF Assembly Manual

CAP 232G ARF

®

Assembly mAnuAl

Specifications

Wingspan: ................................... 80.5 in (2045mm)

Wing Area:

........................ 1260 sq in (81.2 sq dm)

Length: ........................................ 74.5 in (1892mm)

Weight: ............................... 15–16 lb (6.8kg–7.3kg)

Table of Contents

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

UltraCote
Radio and Power Systems Requirements
Required Tools and Adhesives
Limited Warranty Period
Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability
Safety Precautions
Questions, Assistance, and Repairs
Questions or Assistance
Inspection or Repairs
Warranty Inspection and Repairs
Non-Warranty Repairs
Safety, Precautions, and Warnings
Before Starting Assembly
Using the Manual
Section 1 – Hinging the Control Surfaces
Section 2 – Aileron Servo Installation

Covering Colors

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Section 3 – Wing and Tail Installation
Section 4 – Landing Gear Installation
Section 5 – Elevator Servo Installation
Section 6A – Rudder Servo Installation: Pull-Pull
Section 6B – Rudder Servo Installation: Direct Linkage
Section 7 – Tail Wheel Installation
Section 8 – Engine Installation
Section 9 – Final Assembly
Seal the Aileron and Elevator Hinge Gaps
Center of Gravity
Control Throws
Computer Radio Enhancements
Rates and Expos
Radio Setup

Preflight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Range Test Your Radio
2006 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

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2

Contents of Kit

L

E

K

G

M

A

J

D

B

H

C

I

Replacement Parts

A. HAN2901 Fuselage w/Hatch
B. HAN2902 Fuselage Hatch
C. HAN2903 Left Wing w/Aileron
D. HAN2904 Right Wing w/Aileron
E. HAN2905 Wing Tube
F. HAN2906 Stabilizer w/Elevator

F

G. HAN2907 Stabilizer Tube Set
H. HAN2908 Fin w/Rudder
I. HAN2909 Canopy
J. HAN2910 Landing Gear w/Axles
K. HAN2911 Wheel Pant Set
L. HAN2912 Painted Cowl
M. HAN2913 Aluminum Tail Wheel Assembly

Items not shown

HAN2914 Fuel Tank w/Stopper
HAN2915 Decal Set

UltraCote® Covering Colors

• True Red HANU866 • White HANU870

• Pearl Purple HANU847 • Cub Yellow HANU884

Radio and Power Systems Requirements

• 4-Channel radio system (minimum) w/receiver

• JRPS8411 Ultra Torque Digital Servo (5)

• JRPS537 Standard Servo (Throttle)

• 18" (458mm) Servo Extension (JRPA099) (2)

• 24" (610mm) Servo Extensions (JRPA102) (3)

Recommended JR® Systems

• 10X

• XP9303

• XP7202

• XP6102

• XP662

JR XP9303

JR XP6102

Recommended Power Systems

• Evolution 45GX

JR XP7202

Evolution 454 GX

EVOE45GX2

3

Required Tools and Adhesives

Tools

• Drill • T-pins

• Adjustable wrench • Hex wrench: 3/32", 5/32"

• Hobby knife • Hobby scissors

• Phillips screwdriver • Pliers

• Side cutters • Nut driver: 5.5mm

• Crimping tool

• Drill bits: 1/16" (1.5mm), 5/64" (2mm),
5/32" (4mm), 7/32" (4.5mm)

Adhesives

• 6-minute epoxy (HAN8000) • 30-minute epoxy (HAN8002)

• Thin CA • Canopy glue

• Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo • Threadlock

• Medium CA • Pacer hinge glue (PT-55)

Other Required Items

• Epoxy brushes • Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Measuring device (e.g. ruler, tape measure) • Mixing sticks for epoxy

• Paper towels • Rubbing alcohol

• Masking tape • Sanding bar

• Sandpaper • Rotary tool w/sanding drum

• Sealing Iron (HAN101) • Covering Glove (HAN150)

• Sealing Iron Sock (HAN141) • Soldering iron

• Cardstock • 1/4" (6mm) foam

• Syringe • Toothpicks

• Razor saw • Petroleum jelly

• Clear covering (HANU964)

Limited Warranty Period

Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this product to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase.

4

Limited Warranty & Limits of Liability

Pursuant to this Limited Warranty, Horizon Hobby, Inc. will, at its option, (i) repair or (ii) replace, any product determined
by Horizon Hobby, Inc. to be defective. In the event of a defect, these are your exclusive remedies.

This warranty does not cover cosmetic damage or damage due to acts of God, accident, misuse, abuse, negligence,
commercial use, or modification of or to any part of the product. This warranty does not cover damage due to improper
installation, operation, maintenance, or attempted repair by anyone other than an authorized Horizon Hobby, Inc. service
center. This warranty is limited to the original purchaser and is not transferable. In no case shall Horizon Hobby’s
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased product and will not cover consequential, incidental or collateral
damage. Horizon Hobby, Inc. reserves the right to inspect any and all equipment involved in a warranty claim. Repair
or replacement decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby, Inc. Further, Horizon Hobby reserves the right to
change or modify this warranty without notice.

REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER.
HORIZON HOBBY, INC. SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES.

As Horizon Hobby, Inc. has no control over use, setup, final assembly, modification or misuse, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury. By the act of use, setup or assembly, the user accepts all
resulting liability.

If you as the purchaser or user are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, you are
advised to return this product immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

Safety Precautions

This is a sophisticated hobby product and not a toy. It must be operated with caution and common sense and requires
some basic mechanical ability. Failure to operate this product in a safe and responsible manner could result in injury or
damage to the product or other property. This product is not intended for use by children without direct adult supervision.

The product manual contains instructions for safety, operation and maintenance. It is essential to read and follow all the
instructions and warnings in the manual, prior to assembly, setup or use, in order to operate correctly and avoid damage
or injury.

Questions, Assistance, and Repairs

Your local hobby store and/or place of purchase cannot provide warranty support or repair. Once assembly, setup or use
of the product has been started, you must contact Horizon Hobby, Inc. directly. This will enable Horizon to better answer
your questions and service you in the event that you may need any assistance.

Questions or Assistance

For questions or assistance, please direct your email to [e-mail], or call 877.504.0233 toll
free to speak to a service technician.

5

Inspection or Repairs

If your product needs to be inspected or repaired, please call for a Return Merchandise Authorization (RMA). Pack the
product securely using a shipping carton. Please note that original boxes may be included, but are not designed to
withstand the rigors of shipping without additional protection. Ship via a carrier that provides tracking and insurance for
lost or damaged parcels, as Horizon Hobby, Inc. is not responsible for merchandise until it arrives and is accepted at
our facility. Include your complete name, address, phone number where you can be reached during business days, RMA
number, and a brief summary of the problem. Be sure your name, address, and RMA number are clearly written on the
shipping carton.

Warranty Inspection and Repairs

To receive warranty service, you must include your original sales receipt verifying the proof-of-purchase date. Providing
warranty conditions have been met, your product will be repaired or replaced free of charge. Repair or replacement
decisions are at the sole discretion of Horizon Hobby.

Non-Warranty Repairs

Should your repair not be covered by warranty and the expense exceeds 50% of the retail purchase cost, you will be
provided with an estimate advising you of your options. You will be billed for any return freight for non-warranty repairs.
Please advise us of your preferred method of payment. Horizon Hobby accepts money orders and cashiers checks, as
well as Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and Discover cards. If you choose to pay by credit card, please include your
credit card number and expiration date. Any repair left unpaid or unclaimed after 90 days will be considered abandoned
and will be disposed of accordingly.

Electronics and engines requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):

Horizon Service Center

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

All other products requiring inspection or repair should be shipped to the following address (freight prepaid):

Horizon Product Support

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

6

Safety, Precautions, and Warnings

This model is controlled by a radio signal that is subject to interference from many sources outside your control. This
interference can cause momentary loss of control so it is advisable to always keep a safe distance in all directions around
your model, as this margin will help to avoid collisions or injury.

• Always operate your model in an open area away from cars, traffic, or people.

• Never operate the model out into the street or populated areas for any reason as injury or damage can occur..

• Never operate your model with low transmitter batteries.

• Carefully follow the directions and warnings for this and any optional support equipment (chargers, rechargeable
battery packs, etc.) that you use.

• Keep all chemicals, small parts and anything electrical out of the reach of children.

• Moisture causes damage to electronics. Avoid water exposure to all equipment not specifically designed and protected
for this purpose.

Before Starting Assembly

Before beginning the assembly of the CAP 232G, remove each part from its bag for inspection. Closely inspect the
fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any damaged or missing parts, contact the place of
purchase.

If you find any wrinkles in the covering, use a heat gun or sealing iron to remove them. Use caution while working around
areas where the colors overlap to prevent separating the colors.

Using the Manual

HAN101 – Sealing Iron

HAN141 – Sealing Iron

Sock

This manual is divided into sections to help make assembly easier to understand, and to provide breaks between each
major section. In addition, check boxes have been placed next to each step to keep track of each step completed. Steps
with a single box (
repeating, such as for a right or left wing panel, two servos, etc. Remember to take your time and follow the directions.

) are performed once, while steps with two boxes ( ) indicate that the step will require

HAN100 – Heat Gun

HAN150 – Covering Glove

7

Section 1 – Hinging the Control Surfaces

Required Parts

• Elevator (left and right) • Fin

• Rudder • Hinges (21)

• Wing panel (right and left)

• Aileron (left and right)

• Stabilizer (left and right)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Syringe • Sandpaper (coarse)

• Toothpicks • Razor saw

• Petroleum jelly • Straight edge/ruler

• Felt-tipped pen • Scissors

• Hobby knife w/#11 blade

• Covering Iron (HAN101)

• Clear UltraCote® (HANU964)

• 30-minute epoxy or Pacer Hinge Glue (PT-55)

Properly hinging the control surfaces on giant-scale
models is vitally important. Poorly installed hinges affect
the model’s precision and control response and can also
be dangerous. Each and every hinge needs to be securely
bonded in place in both the flying surface and the control
surface. The hinge pivot points need to be exactly parallel
to each other and precisely located on the center of the
hinge line.

  Step 2

Mix one ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using a glue syringe
or toothpick, place a sufficient amount of 30-minute
epoxy into one of the hinge pockets in the aileron leading
edge only. Install one of the hinge points until the hinge
pin center is flush with the leading edge of the aileron.
Some epoxy should ooze out of the pocket as the hinge is
installed. If not, remove the hinge and apply more epoxy.
After gluing a few hinges, you’ll get the hang of just how
much epoxy is needed. Wipe away any excess epoxy with
rubbing alcohol. Re-check that the center of the hinge
pin is flush and parallel with the leading edge. Continue
installing hinges in the leading edge of the aileron. The
control surfaces (ailerons) will be installed after the epoxy
is fully cured.

  Step 1

Sand each end of the hinge point using coarse sandpaper.
This will improve the bond of the epoxy to the hinge.
Apply a thin coat of Petroleum jelly to the hinge point to
prevent the epoxy from gluing the hinge surface.

8

Note: Be sure that the hinge pivot pins are
parallel and flush to the aileron leading edge.
It’s important to frequently mix a fresh batch
of 30-minute epoxy in order to achieve good
glue joint penetration. If you notice the epoxy
becoming thicker, then mix a new batch.

Hint: You can also use Pacer PT-55
Hinge Glue to glue the hinges. Follow
the instructions here as well as on the
glue bottle to achieve the best results.

Section 1 – Hinging the Control Surfaces

  Step 3

Allow the glue to fully cure for at least 6 hours. When
cured, work each hinge throughout its full motion several
times using your hands. This will break free any epoxy
that may have found its way into the hinge joint. Move the
hinge throughout its full travel until no resistance is felt.
This may take as many as 40 or 50 times.

  Step 4

Mix one ounce of 30-minute epoxy or use Pacer PT-55
hinge glue. Place a sufficient amount of glue in each of
the hinge pockets in one wing panel.

  Step 5

Carefully attach the aileron to the wing, making sure the
hinges are inserted in their respective hinge pockets.
Press the aileron and wing together such that less than a
1/64" (.5mm) hinge line gap exists between the aileron
and wing. The bevels should virtually touch. Use a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol to wipe away any visible epoxy
around the hinges.

  Step 6

Double-check the hinge gap and allow the glue to fully
cure for at least 6 hours.

  Step 7

When fully cured, move each control surface throughout
its travel range several times to break away any epoxy in
the hinge. Be sure to deflect the surface fully.

9

Section 1 – Hinging the Control Surfaces

  Step 8

Glue the elevator hinges in place using the same
techniques used to hinge the ailerons.

 Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the remaining aileron
and elevator.

Hint: Combining the left and right wing/
aileron and/or left and right stabilizer/elevator
while waiting for glue to cure will make
this section move along much quicker.

It is a good idea to be sure that the aileron and elevator
hinge lines be sealed airtight. Sealing the hinge line has
several advantages. A sealed hinge line gives a greater
control response for a given control deflection. It also
offers more precise, consistent control response and
makes trimming easier. Sealing the aileron and elevator
hinge line is highly recommended. Failure to do so may
cause control surface flutter, resulting in a crash.

    Step 11

Cut a piece of Clear UltraCote® for sealing the ailerons
to approximately 1" x 32" (25mm x 810mm). Fold the
UltraCote down the center with the adhesive side to the
outside making a sharp crease at the fold.

    Step 12

Remove the backing from the UltraCote. Place the folded
crease side into the center of the hinge line on the bottom
of the wing. Using a straight edge as shown, hold one
side of the covering in place while ironing down the
opposite side with a sealing iron. We recommend setting
the iron temperature to 320° for this procedure.

 Step 10

Since all that’s left is the rudder, this is a good time to
glue it as well. Follow Steps 1 through 7 to complete
hinging the control surfaces. Cut the bottom hinge flush
with the forward edge of the fin post.

Note: White covering was used
for clarity in the photos.

10

Section 1 – Hinging the Control Surfaces

    Step 13

Fully deflect the aileron in the up position. Place the
straight edge over the hinge line covering that you just

 Step 15

Repeat Steps 11 through 13 for both elevator halves using

a 1" x 15" (13mm x 380mm) piece of clear covering.
ironed down in Step 2 with the edge of the straight edge
placed firmly at the bottom of the hinge line as shown.
Iron down this side of the covering, making sure the
aileron is fully deflected.

 Step 14

Repeat Steps 11 through 13 for the remaining aileron
hinge gap.

Section 2 – Aileron Servo Installation

Required Parts

• 8-32 flange nut (2) • 4-40 lock nut (2)

• Ball link for swivel link (2) • Molded swivel link (2)

• Wing panel (right and left)

• 8-32 x 2

1

/4" control horn screw (2)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (2)

• Ball link for servo arm (2)

1

• 4

/4" aileron linkage (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Ruler

• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm)

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

• 18" Servo Extension (JRPA099) (2)

• 3D 1/2 Servo Arm 4-40: JR (HAN3578) (2)

  Step 1

Install the servo hardware (grommets and eyelets)

included with the servo. Plug a 18" servo extension

onto the servo. Tie the servo leads together, using a

commercially available connector, or use unwaxed dental

floss to secure the extensions to prevent them from

coming loose during flight.

11

Section 2 – Aileron Servo Installation

  Step 2

Tie the string to the servo extension and insert the servo
into the wing. Use the string to pull the servo lead through
the wing. Position the servo so the output shaft is toward
the trailing edge of the wing. Use a 1/16" (1.5mm) drill
bit to drill the locations for the servo screws. Mount the
servos using the hardware provided with the servos.

  Step 3

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat

the inside of the hole in the aileron and the 8-32 x 2

control horn screw. Thread the screw into the hole from

the top of the surface. Wipe away any excess epoxy on the

wing and screw with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

Screw the 8-32 flanged nut in place as shown. Allow the

epoxy to fully cure.

1

/4"

  Step 4

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw until

the distance from the aileron surface to the top of the link

1

is 1

/8" (28.6mm).

12

Section 2 – Aileron Servo Installation

  Step 5

Using the 4-40 screws (don’t substitute a standard screw)
and nuts included, attach the ball link to the outer hole
in the servo arm from the bottom side as shown. The
sequence is screw, ball link, servo arm and nut. Don’t
forget to use threadlock.

Note: Hangar 9® aluminum servo arms
are suggested for ease of installation and
durability. Use 3D 1/2 Servo Arm 4-40:
JR (HAN3578) for the aileron servos.

  Step 8

Attach the linkage to the servo horn on the aileron.

Adjust the link so the aileron is centered at the same

time as the servo.

 Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the remaining wing panel.

  Step 6

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto each end of a
4 1/4" long aileron linkage.

  Step 7

Center the servo using the radio system. Attach the servo
horn to the servo using the screw provided with the servo.
The arm faces towards the root of the wing.

13

Section 3 – Wing and Tail Installation

Required Parts

• Wing panels • Fuselage

• Wing tube • Stabilizer tube

• 1/4-20 x 2" nylon bolt (2) • 3mm washer (4)

• 3mm x 15mm machine screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• 30-minute epoxy • Phillips screwdriver

• Hobby knife • Threadlock

 Step 1

Remove the two 4-40 x1/2" screws securing the hatch
to the fuselage. Remove the hatch and store it in a safe
place until later.

 Step 2

Locate the wing tube and carefully slide it into one
wing panel. Slide the wing (with tube) into the wing
tube opening in the fuselage. Make sure the wing panel
alignment pins slide into the holes provided in the
fuselage. Be sure the alignment pins are secure in the
wing halves before installing the wings. If they are not,
remove the pin and apply a small amount of thin CA into
the tube socket and reinstall the alignment pin.

 Step 3

Carefully slide the remaining wing panel onto the wing

tube that projects from the fuselage. The fit may be tight;

use caution when inserting the wing panels onto the wing

tube and fuselage.

 Step 4

Secure the wing panels using the 1/4-20 x 2" wing bolts.

14

Section 3 – Wing and Tail Installation

 Step 5

Slide the aluminum rod and tube into the holes in the
fuselage for the stabilizer. Slide one stabilizer onto the
rod and tube.

  Step 6

Secure the stabilizer using two 3mm washers and two
3mm x 15mm machine screws. Use threadlock on the
screws to prevent them from loosening during flight.

 Step 8

Test fit the rudder assembly to the fuselage. Remove

any covering from the fin post that comes in contact

with the fuselage. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin

to the fuselage.

 Step 7

Repeat Step 6 to secure the remaining stabilizer to
the fuselage.

15

Section 4 – Landing Gear Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage •#8 lock washer (4)

• Wheel pant (left and right) •#8 washer (4)

• 8-32 nylon lock nut (4) • 3

• 3/16" wheel collar (4) •#4 washer (2)

• 8-32 x 3/4" socket head bolt (4)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (4)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Hex wrench: 5/32" • Ruler

• Felt-tipped pen • Square

• Adjustable wrench (small)

1

/2" wheel (2)

 Step 1

Install the axles in the landing gear. Secure the axles using
an adjustable wrench and the nuts provided with the axles.

  Step 3

Install the following items onto the axle: wheel pant, 3/16"

wheel collar, wheel then another 3/16" wheel collar.

  Step 4

Secure the pant in place using a 4-40 x 1/2" socket head

screw and #4 washer. Use threadlock on the screw to

prevent it from coming loose in flight.

 Step 2

Install the landing gear using four 8-32 x 3/4" socket head
bolts and four #8 lock washers

16

Section 4 – Landing Gear Installation

  Step 5

Center the wheel in the wheel pant and tighten the collars
to prevent the wheel from moving side to side. Use
threadlock on both setscrews.

  Step 6

Repeat Steps 3 through 5 for the remaining wheel pant.

Section 5 – Elevator Servo Installation

Required Parts

• 8-32 flange nut (2) • 4-40 lock nut (2)

• Fuselage w/stabilizer

1

• 2

/2" elevator linkage (2)

• 8-32 x 2

1

/4" control horn screw (2)

• Molded swivel link (2)

• Ball link for swivel link (2)

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (2)

• Ball link for servo arm (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill

• Drill bit: 1/16” (1.5mm)

• Dental floss or string

• Aluminum servo arms (2)

• Control horn ball ends (2)

• 24" (610mm) Servo Extensions (JRPA102) (2)

Note: Using two standard rotation servos and
a standard “Y” harness for the elevators will
result in them moving in opposite directions
instead of the same direction. As such, the
elevator installation will either require the
use of one reversed rotation servo and one
standard rotation servo or a reversing “Y”
harness. It is highly recommended to use a
computer radio or a JR
the two elevator servos to operate properly.

The elevators require a minimum of
80 ounce inch of servo torque. In the prototype
CAP 232, we used JR8231 and JR9411
servos with excellent results. Using servos
with less torque could cause a crash.

®

MatchBox™ to link

17

Section 5 – Elevator Servo Installation

  Step 1

Install an 24" (610mm) servo extension onto an elevator
servo. Tie the servo leads together, using a commercially
available connector, or use unwaxed dental floss to secure
the extensions to prevent them from coming loose during
flight. If using a Y-harness, install one side only of the
Y-harness to one of the servos, also tying knots to prevent
disconnection. The other servo will be hooked up to the
Y-harness when installed in the airplane. One elevator
servo will need to be a reversed-direction servo.

  Step 2

Install the servo in the fuselage tail section with the output
shaft to the rear of the fuselage. Drill 1/16" pilot holes
before installing the screws. Using the screws included
with the servos, fasten the servos in place.

  Step 3

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat

the inside of the hole in the elevator and the 8-32 x 2

control horn screw. Thread the screw into the hole from

the top of the elevator. Wipe away any excess epoxy on the

wing and screw with rubbing alcohol and a paper towel.

Screw the 8-32 flange nut in place as shown. Allow the

epoxy to fully cure.

1

/4"

  Step 4

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw until

the distance from the elevator surface to the top of the link

1

is 1

/8" (28mm).

18

Section 5 – Elevator Servo Installation

  Step 5

Remove the stock servo arms from the elevator servos
and replace them with 3D XL 1/2 servo arms. The
arms need to face down as shown. Be sure to use a
drop of threadlock on the servo arm screw if using
metal-geared servos.

  Step 6

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto a 2
linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage into the
swivel control horn on the elevator. Adjust the linkage
length until the hole in the ball link lines up with the outer
hole in the servo arm when the elevator is neutral and the
servo arm is centered.

1

/2" elevator

  Step 7

Use the included 4-40 screws and nuts to attach the ball

link to the outer hole in the arm. From the topside, the

correct sequence is 4-40 screw, ball link, servo arm and

4-40 locknut. Be sure to use threadlock.

 Step 8

Repeat Steps 1 through 7 for the remaining elevator

servo and linkage.

19

Section 6A – Rudder Servo Installation: Pull-Pull

Required Parts

• Fuselage assembly

• 4-40 linkage • 8-32 flange nut (2)

• 4-40 locknut (2)

• 8-32 x 4" control horn screw

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw (2)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Threadlock • Ruler

The CAP 232G has two options for mounting the rudder
servo. For lighter engines, a pull-pull system is used. For
heavier engines a tail-mounted servo is used.

The rudder requires a minimum of 100 ounce inch of
servo torque. In the prototype CAP 232G we used a
JRPS8411 servo with excellent results. Using servos with
less torque could result in blow back.

 Step 1

Thread the 8-32 x 4" control horn screw into the hole in
the rudder and epoxy in place. Thread the 8-32 flange nuts
onto the screw from both sides of the rudder. Position the
screw so it is centered in the rudder. Use threadlock on
the nuts to prevent them from loosening during flight.

 Step 2

Cut the cable into two equal pieces. Prepare one end

of the pull-pull cable using the cable, threaded cable

end and crimp. The cable passes through the crimp,

through the threaded end, then back through the crimp.

Pull the excess cable tight and use a crimping tool to

complete the job.

  Step 3

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw

until the distance from the rudder surface to the top of

the link is 11/16" (17mm). Thread the cable end halfway

into the ball link. Pass the cable into the fuselage through

the opening.

20

Section 6A – Rudder Servo Installation: Pull-Pull

 Step 4

Repeat Step 3 for the second cable. Tape the cables to
the rudder servo tray to keep them from moving around
inside the fuselage.

 Step 5

Prepare the rudder servo arm by attaching two 4-40 ball
links using the standoffs and 4-40 lock nuts.

Using the screws included with the servos, fasten
the servos in place. You may find it helpful to drill
1/16" (1.5mm) pilot holes before installing the screws.
Center the rudder servo and place the servo arm onto
the servo.

 Step 6

Adjust the position of the threaded end on the cable so

it will thread into the ball end and have slight tension on

the cable to the rudder. It will take some time to get the

position right. Once the position of the end is correct,

pass the cable back through the crimp and secure the

cable. Thread the end into the ball end. Repeat this for

both cables.

Note: The cables will cross inside the
fuselage to get the correct geometry.

 Step 7

With the radio on, check the operation of the rudder.

Adjust the cables so when the rudder servo is centered,

the rudder is centered as well. There will be tension on

the cables. Adjustments can be made at the rudder control

horn and at the servo arm. Once adjustments are made,

secure the servo arm to the rudder servo using the screw

that came with the servo.

Note: Check the tension of the rudder
cables before every flying session,
as they may stretch over time.

21

Section 6B – Rudder Servo Installation: Direct Linkage

Required Parts

• Fuselage w/ stabilizer • 8" rudder linkage

• 8-32 flange nut • Molded swivel link

• 4-40 locknut • Ball link for servo arm

• Ball link for swivel link

• 4-40 x 1/2" socket head screw

• 8-32 x 2

1

/4" control horn screw

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Dental floss or string

• Drill bit: 1/16" (1.5mm)

• Aluminum servo arms

• Control horn ball ends

• 24" (610mm) Servo Extension (JRPA102)

The rudder requires a minimum of 100 ounce inch
of servo torque. In the prototype CAP 232Gwe used
JRPS8411 servos with excellent results. Using servos with
less torque could result in blow back.

 Step 2

Remove the covering from the rudder servo opening on

the left side of the fuselage using a hobby knife. Install

the servo in the fuselage tail section with the output shaft

to the rear of the fuselage. Drill 1/16" pilot holes before

installing the screws. Using the screws included with the

servos, fasten the servo in place.

The rudder servo installation is very similar to that of
the elevator and aileron servos. You can either follow
the steps as described, or just use the last photo to
illustrate the direction of the servo and layout of the
completed linkage.

 Step 1

Install an 24" (610mm) servo extension onto the rudder
servo. Tie the servo leads together, using a commercially
available connector, or use unwaxed dental floss to
secure the extensions to prevent them from coming
loose during flight.

 Step 3

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and lightly coat

the inside of the hole in the rudder and the 8-32 x 2

control horn screw. Thread the screw into the hole from

the right side of the rudder. Wipe away any excess epoxy

on the rudder and screw with rubbing alcohol and a paper

towel. Screw the 8-32 flange nut in place as shown. Allow

the epoxy to fully cure.

1

/4"

22

Section 6B – Rudder Servo Installation: Direct Linkage

 Step 4

Screw the molded swivel link onto the 8-32 screw until
the distance from the rudder surface to the top of the link

1

is 1

/8" (28mm).

 Step 5

Remove the stock servo arms from the rudder servo
and replace them with 3D XL 1/2 servo arms. The
arms need to face down as shown. Be sure to use a
drop of threadlock on the servo arm screw if using
metal-geared servos.

 Step 6

Use the included 4-40 screws and nuts to attach the ball

link to the outer hole in the arm. From the topside, the

correct sequence is 4-40 screw, ball link, servo arm and

4-40 locknut. Be sure to use threadlock.

 Step 7

Screw a 4-40 ball link 5 to 6 turns onto the 8" rudder

linkage. Screw the opposite end of the linkage into the

swivel control horn on the rudder. Adjust the linkage

length until the hole in the ball link lines up with the outer

hole in the servo arm when the rudder is neutral and the

servo arm is centered.

23

Section 7 – Tail Wheel Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Tail wheel assembly

• Tail wheel spring (2) • Tiller arm

•#4 x 5/8" socket head wood screw (3)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Drill • Felt-tipped pen

• Drill bit: 5/64" (2mm)

 Step 1

Secure the tiller arm to the bottom of the rudder using
three wood screws. Remove the screws and apply
2-3 drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the balsa,
and then reinstall the screws.

 Step 3

Remove the bracket and drill 5/64" (2mm) pilot holes at

the previously marked positions. Use two #4 x 5/8" sheet

metal screws to secure the tail wheel bracket in place. A

hardwood plate is positioned in the rear of the fuselage,

allowing these screws to be firmly tightened.

 Step 2

Position the tail wheel assembly in place as shown,
centered on the rear of the fuselage. Using a felt-tipped
pen, mark the positions for the mounting screws through
the tail wheel bracket.

Hint: Remove the screws and wick thin
CA into the holes to strengthen the
threads. When dry, reinstall the screws.

 Step 4

Use the tail wheel springs to make the connection between

the tiller arm and the steering arm. Bend the springs so

they won’t come loose during flight.

24

Section 8 – Engine Installation

Required Parts

• Fuselage • 1/4-20 x 1" bolts (4)

• 17" throttle pushrod tube • 1/4" fuel tubing

• Nylon clevis • 1/4" split washers (4)

3

• 13

/4" throttle pushrod • Cowling

•#4 washer (4) • 1/4" fuel tube (4)

• Clunk (fuel pickup) • Metal caps (2)

• Fuel tubing • Fuel tank

• Rubber stopper • M3 x 20 screw

• 15" (380mm) tie wrap

• 4-40 x 1" socket head screw (4)

• Metal tubes (short and long)

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Medium CA • Drill

• Ruler • Square

• Hobby knife • Razor saw

• Foam: 1/4" (6mm)

• Rotary tool with sanding drum

• Drill bit: 5/32" (4mm), 7/32" (5.5mm)

1

• 3

/4" (83mm) spinner and adapters

• Phillips screwdriver

 Step 1

 Step 2

Attach the engine to the firewall using the hardware

provided with your engine from the inside of the firewall.

Mount the muffler to the engine.

 Step 3

Determine the proper location for the throttle pushrod.

Mark the location with a felt-tipped pen. Remove the

engine and drill the firewall for the pushrod tube using a

drill and 5/32" (4mm) drill bit. Roughen the tube using

medium sandpaper. Slide the tube into position and use

medium CA to glue it to the firewall.

Attach the engine standoff onto the engine using the
instructions provided with the engine. Also collect all the
items required for the exhaust system at this time.

 Step 4

Trim the tube 1/2" (13mm) in front of the throttle servo

tray. Place a 1/4" (6mm) piece of fuel tubing onto a clevis,

then thread the clevis onto the 13

pushrod. Attach the clevis to the carburetor arm. Use a

brass connector to connect the throttle pushrod to the

servo arm as shown.

3

/4" (350mm) throttle

25

Section 8 – Engine Installation

 Step 5

Move the servo to the throttle open position using the
radio system. Manually move the throttle arm on the
carburetor to the open position. Mark the pushrod where it
crosses the servo arm. Make a 90-degree bend in the wire
and install it into the servo arm.

 Step 6

Check the movement of the throttle to verify there is
no binding at either low or high throttle. If there is,
make the necessary adjustment to eliminate any binding.
Secure the pushrod using a pushrod keeper when all
adjustments are complete.

 Step 7

Install the ignition onto the engine box. Make any
connections from the ignition to the engine using the
instructions provided with your engine. Mounting the
ignition to the engine box keeps it away from the radio.
Being too near could cause radio interference.

 Step 8

Prepare the tubing by placing a drop of solder on the ends

of the brass tubing as shown. This will keep the fuel line

from slipping off the tube when combined with Step 7.

 Step 9

Slide the tubes onto the brass tubes. Use fine wire to

secure the tubes. The wire is placed behind the solder

applied in the previous step to keep the tubes in place.

Note: The stopper provided with the CAP
232G has three holes in the stopper. The holes
are for the fuel pickup, fill and vent lines. Only
two holes will be used: one for the fuel pickup
and one for the fuel vent. Only open the third
hole if you want to use a separate fill line.

Note for Glow Engines: The stopper and
tubing supplied is for gas engines. If you are
using a glow engine you will need to purchase
a separate stopper and tubing for your engine.

26

 Step 10

Bend the longer fuel tube carefully to a 45-degree angle

using your fingers. This will be the fuel tank vent tube.

Use care not to kink the tube while bending.

 Step 11

Connect two 12" (305mm) pieces of fuel tubing for

pickup and vent tubes. Attach the tubing to the pick-up

and the vent.

Section 8 – Engine Installation

 Step 12

Carefully insert the stopper assembly into the fuel tank.
Note the position of the vent tube; it must be up at the
top portion of the fuel tank to function properly. Also, it
may be necessary to shorten the length of the fuel pickup
tubing to make sure the clunk does not rub against the
back of the fuel tank. You should be able to turn the tank
to any attitude, and the clunk will fall to the lowest point
(all directions except for having the stopper facing down).
Tighten the M3 x 20 screw carefully—do not over-tighten.
This allows the rubber stopper to form a seal by being
slightly compressed, thus sealing the fuel tank opening.

 Step 13

Cut a piece of 1/4" foam the size of the bottom of the fuel

tank. Secure the fuel tank to the fusel tank floor, placing

the foam between the tank and floor.

Note: The longer tabs on the floor face
toward the front of the fuselage.

Note: When installing the fuel tank, make
sure to have a piece of foam at any point
that contacts any structure inside the
fuselage. Without the foam, vibrations will be
transmitted to the fuel tank, which could cause
the fuel to foam. In turn, you will not get the
optimum performance from your engine.

 Step 14

Secure the fuel tank floor into the fuselage using 30-

minute epoxy.

Note: Once the epoxy has cured it may be
necessary to move the fuel tank forward
or aft depending on your servo location
to prevent binding of the servo.

27

Section 8 – Engine Installation

 Step 15

Attach the cowling onto the fuselage using four
4-40 x 1" socket head screws, four #4 washers and
four pieces of 1/4" (6mm) long fuel tubing. Make any
necessary cut-outs to clear items such as needle valves,
glow plugs, cut-off switches, mufflers, etc.

 Step 16

Remove the bottom rear edge of the cowl for an air

exhaust. This is important for engine cooling.

 Step 17

Install the propeller and spinner to complete the

cowling installation.

Note: Start by removing only a little
material at a time. You can always make
the holes bigger as you work. Work until
the cowl fits nicely over the engine.

Section 9 – Final Assembly

Required Parts

• Fuselage • Pushrod keeper

• Hatch • Canopy

• 4-40 x 1/2" screw (4) •#4 washer (4)

• Decals • 25–30% pilot

Required Tools and Adhesives

• Velcro straps • 1/4" (6mm) foam

• Hex wrench: 3/32" • Masking tape

• Formula 560-canopy glue • Shoo Goo

 Step 1

Wrap the receiver battery and receiver in 1/4" (6mm)

foam. Use Velcro straps or tie wraps to secure the receiver

and battery to the battery tray.

28

Section 9 – Final Assembly

 Step 2

Mount the receiver switch in a convenient location in the
side of the fuselage.

 Step 3

Plug the servos into the receiver. Check the operation
of the servos using the transmitter. Make any necessary
programming changes to the radio for the operation of the
aileron and elevator servos.

 Step 4

Cut out the instrument panel decal from the decal sheet.
Attach it into position.

 Step 7

Lightly sand the inside edge of the canopy and

slightly inside the line drawn on the hatch using

medium sandpaper.

 Step 8

Apply a bead of RCZ56 Canopy Glue (ZINJ5007) around

the inside edge of the canopy. Position the canopy onto

the hatch. Use tape to hold the canopy secure until the

glue fully cures.

 Step 5

Install a 25% or 30% pilot figure to the hatch using
Shoo Goo or similar adhesive that will remain flexible.
Let the glue dry before securing the canopy in place.

 Step 6

Use hobby scissors to trim the canopy. Position the
canopy onto the canopy hatch. Trace around the canopy
and onto the hatch using a felt-tipped pen.

 Step 9

Apply the decals using the photos on the box as a guide.

29

Seal the Aileron and Elevator Hinge Gaps

This should be considered part of finishing the model,
and is as important as installing the fuel tank or battery
pack. Although this is mentioned back in Section 1,
it is important enough to emphasize it a second time
in the manual.

On large aerobatic models, this is absolutely necessary.

Failure to do this can cause control surface flutter, and on

a large model, this will most likely cause a crash.

Putting safety and model preservation to the side, there

are several other reasons to do this on an aerobatic model.

It will increase the effectiveness of the control surfaces,

and the model will track more true and precise.

Center of Gravity

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is
properly balancing the model. This is especially important
when various engines can be mounted.

Caution: Do not inadvertently skip this step!

The recommended Center of Gravity (CG) location for
the CAP 232G is 6
leading edge of the wing against the fuselage. If necessary,
move the battery pack or add weight to either the nose
or the tail until the correct balance is achieved. Stick-on
weights are available at your local hobby shop and work
well for this purpose.

1

/8"–7" (156mm–178mm) behind the

30

Control Throws

Setting the control throws for your CAP 232G does require
some attention to detail. To correctly set the throws, it
is highly suggested to use the following procedure to
achieve the greatest mechanical advantage from your
servos. This will help in preventing stripped servo gears
and reduce the potential for in-flight flutter.

 Step 1

Determine the maximum amount of control surface throw
from the throws listed. Use the 3D throws to set the
maximum amount of throw, then use your computer radio
for the lower rate listed.

 Step 2

Set the Travel Adjust (ATV on Futaba TX) to about 15%
under the max. (On a JR transmitter that is 135%). Make
sure to set both directions during this process.

 Step 3

Adjust the position of the clevis on the control horn
and position of the ball link on the servo arm to achieve
the throw decided in Step 1. It is highly recommended
not to change the position on the servo arm unless
absolutely necessary. Use Travel Adjust (ATV) to finalize
the throws. That is why we left a little margin in the
percentages back in Step 2.

 Step 4

If setting a dual elevator or aileron, match the linkage

locations used back in Step 3. Increase or decrease the

Travel Adjust (ATV) a few points as necessary to fine-tune

the throws to match up left and right sides and up and

down throws so all is symmetrical.

This is all necessary to tune the mechanical advantage as

good as possible. When setting up a model for 3D, the

mechanical advantage will be less because of the large

throws, and thus the servo will work harder and wear

faster. Using an insufficient servo for the job, or trying

to get too much throw, will cause something to give,

probably the servo.

There isn’t an exact geometry to the linkage, as it depends

on how much throw each individual modeler requires.

The linkage geometry should always be maximized so the

servo isn’t working any harder than it has to.

Low rate 3D rate

Aileron

20° up 35° up

19° down 34° down

Elevator

12° up 40° up

13° down 40° down

Rudder

25° right 50° right

25° left 50° left

Computer Radio Enhancements

A computer radio will allow you to do quite a bit of fine­tuning to the feel of the CAP 232G, which will make
aerobatics even easier.

31

Rates and Expos

Use an Expo to soften the feel of the model. On high 3D
rates use quite a bit of expo. The goal on 3D rates is
to get the model to feel the same around neutral as it
does on low rates around neutral.

Radio Setup

A 7-Channel or greater computer radio is highly
recommended. This allows the following features:

• Mixing the right aileron to the left aileron (flaperon mix)

• Electronically adjustable aileron differential

• Mixing the right elevator to the left elevator (dual

elevator mixing)

• Independent travel and trim adjustments for each

elevator half

When using a 7-Channel or greater computer radio,
each servo is plugged into its own separate channel.
Consult your radio manual for specific details on
hookup and programming.

If using a 6-Channel radio with flaperon mix, the aileron
servos are each plugged into their own channels. The
right aileron plugs into the aileron socket in the receiver,
while the left aileron plugs into channel 6. With flaperon
activated in the programming, this allows for independent
travel adjustment of each aileron in each direction and
electronic aileron differential. Consult your manual for
more programming details.

Use low rate settings for all flying except for 3D

aerobatics. For precision flying or general sport hot-

dogging, the low rate throws are perfect, even for snap

rolls. The only exception is rudder rates. Use 3D rudder

rate when doing stall turns and rolling circles, since

the more rudder the better for these. When doing 3D

aerobatics, flip to 3D rates just before the maneuver. As

soon as the maneuver is done, flip back down to low rate

to avoid over-controlling the model.

With a 6-Channel computer radio, it will be necessary

to Y-harness the two elevator servos; a reversed elevator

servo is needed to achieve the correct control direction. A

servo reverser can be used here.

Using a non-computer radio will require that the aileron,

elevator and rudder be Y-harnessed. Be sure to use a

reversed servo (or a reverser) for one of the elevator

servos. If you’ve ever thought about purchasing a

computer radio, now is a good time to do it!

32

Preflight

For those of you who are veterans of large models, this
is old news. But to you newcomers to the world of large
models, this is very important information.

While many smaller models are very tolerant of improper
control linkage setups and flying techniques, large models
are not. Don’t let that scare you away from large models;
they are truly one of the best flying experiences in RC that
money can buy. However, please pay particular attention to
the following areas.

Just as with unsealed hinge gaps, mechanical advantage

is often another cause of flutter. Please follow the control

horn and servo arm lengths recommended in this manual.

Shorter arms on the servo or longer control horns on the

elevator and ailerons are fine, but do not try to go the

other way to increase throw. It can cause flutter on the

CAP 232G. The recommended linkage setups are more

than adequate to achieve full 3D throws.

Never attempt to make full throttle dives!

Large models perform much more like full-size aircraft

than small models. If the airframe goes too fast, such as in

a high throttle dive, it may fail. The CAP 232G should be

flown like a full-scale CAP 232. Throttle management is

absolutely necessary.

Range Test Your Radio

 Step 1

Before each flying session, be sure to range check
your radio. This is accomplished by turning on your
transmitter with the antenna collapsed. Turn on the
receiver in your airplane. With your airplane on the
ground and the engine running, you should be able to
walk 30 paces (approximately 100 feet) away from your
airplane and still have complete control of all functions.
If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment
checked out by the manufacturer.

 Step 2

Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator, rudder

and throttle) move in the correct direction.

 Step 3

Be sure that your batteries are fully charged, per the

instructions included with your radio.

33

2006 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned
events, air shows or model flying demonstrations until
it has been proven to be airworthy by having been
previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying
the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid
flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where
necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise
flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of
full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules
for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/
or dangerous manner.

4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55
pounds, except models flown under Experimental
Aircraft rules.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with
my name and address or AMA number, on or in the
model. (This does not apply to models while being
flown indoors.)

6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed
propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which gases
other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely
hazardous fuels such as those containing
tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any

device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile

of any kind) including, but not limited to, rockets,

explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke

bombs, all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled

balloons), or ground mounted devices launching a

projectile. The only exceptions permitted are rockets

flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry

Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per

JATO use); also those items authorized for Air Show

Team use as defined by AST Advisory Committee

(document available from AMA HQ). In any case,

models using rocket motors as a primary means of

propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3

pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is

defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able

to carry a human being.)

8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to,

nor during, participation in any model operations.

9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed

on the flight line as a pilot or while receiving

flight instruction.

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground range check before the first flight of a new or

repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence

of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless

assisted by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must

be established in front of which all flying takes place

with the other side for spectators. Only personnel

involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in

the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the

flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio-control

frequencies currently allowed by the Federal

Communications Commission. (Only properly

licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate

equipment on Amateur Band frequencies.)

34

2006 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more
are considered safe from site-to site interference,
even when both sites use the same frequencies. Any
circumstances under three miles separation require
a frequency management arrangement, which may
be either an allocation of specific frequencies for
each site or testing to determine that freedom from
interference exists. Allocation plans or interference
test reports shall be signed by the parties involved
and provided to AMA Headquarters. Documents of
agreement and reports may exist between (1) two
or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2) AMA clubs and
individual AMA members not associated with AMA
Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA members.

6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement
line and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic
inch of engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine
= 200 feet.); electric motors will be based on
equivalent combustion engine size. Additional safety
requirements will be per the RC Combat section of the
current Competition Regulations.

7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations, a
single straight line must be established, one side of
which is for flying, with the other side for spectators.

8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other
person touch a powered model in flight.

Organized RC Racing Event

10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule

Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete

in flight over a prescribed course with the objective of

finishing the course faster to determine the winner.

A. In every organized racing event in which

contestants, callers and officials are on the course:

1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly

wear helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or

NOCSAE approved or comparable standard while on

the racecourse.

2. All officials will be off the course except for the

starter and their assistant.

3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond

the pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.

B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized

racing event which does not comply with paragraph A

above or which allows models over 20 pounds unless

that competition event is AMA sanctioned.

C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator

(line) will be in accordance with the current

Competition Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing

section for the specific event pending two or three

pylon course layout.

11) RC night flying is limited to low-performance

models (less than 100 mph). The models must be

equipped with a lighting system that clearly defines

the aircraft’s position in the air at all times.

35

8793

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© 2006 Horizon Hobby, Inc.

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

[phone]

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