Hangar 9 CAP 232 Instruction Manual

ALMOST READY-TO-FLY

PRE-BUILT

90

%

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TM

TM

Specifications

Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73′′

Length:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 1/

4

′′

Wing Area:. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1031 sq. in.

Weight (Approx.):

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11–12 lbs.

Recommended Engines:1.08 –1.20 2-Stroke

1.20 –1.50 4-Stroke

• 90% pre-built

• Highest quality Du-Bro and Sullivan hardwar e included

• Pre-covered in genuine UltraCote

®

featuring Matt Chapman’s

full scale trim scheme

• Pre-finished fiberglass cowl and wheel pants

2

Table of Contents

Introduction 3
Warning 3
Additional Equipment Required 3
Tools and Supplies Required 4
Contents of Kit 5
Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons 6
Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves 8
Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos 12
Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkages 14
Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage 16
Section 6: Installing the Tail (Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizer) 19
Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator 22
Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and Installing the Tail Wheel 23
Section 9: Installing the Control Horns 25
Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear 28
Section 11: Assembling and Mounting the Wheel Pants 29
Section 12: Installing the Engine 31
Section 13: Assembling and Installing the Fuel Tank 32
Section 14: Installing the Radio 34
Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages 36
Section 16: Attaching the Cowling 38
Section 17: Attaching the Canopy 40
Section 18: Balancing the CAP 41
Section 19: Control Throw Recommendations 41
Pre-Flight at the Field 42
AMA Safety Code 43

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the finest ARFs to be produced! The Hangar 9 CAP 232 is a high-performance aircraft best
suited for the more experienced flyer and modeler. Although this is an ARF (Almost-Ready-to-Fly) kit, it does have some construction
features that can be challenging for a new modeler. If you encounter difficulty in any construction sequence, please feel free to contact
one of our technicians—we stand ready to provide any assistance we can concerning the construction of your CAP. You can contact
us at 217-355-9511.

Warning

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.

Additional Equipment Required

Radio Equipment

4 Channels (minimum)
5 Standard Servos
Standard 600–1000 mAh Receiver Battery Pack
Y-Harness (if a non-computer radio is used)

Engines

1.08-1.2 2-Cycle Engines

1.20-1.50 4-Cycle Engines

Recommended 2-Cycle Engines Recommended 4-Cycle Engines

Webra 1.20 Saito 1.20 - 1.50

Saito 1.20GK - 1.50GK

Parts

Aileron Extension (2) (JRPA114, 12′′silver) Tru–Turn Adaptor (for appropriate engine)
3′′Tru–Turn Spinner (TRU3002) Dubro Kwik Fueler Valve

3

Recommended JR Systems

JR XF642
JR XP783
JR XP8103
PCM10SxII

Propeller
Fuel Filter
Foam for Cushioning Tank
Fuel Tubing

4

Tools and Supplies Required

Adhesives

Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue
6-minute epoxy
12-minute epoxy
30-minute epoxy
Blue Locktite 242
Canopy glue (R/C 56)
Silver solder (Stay Brite)

Tools

Drill
Drill bits: 1/16′′, 5/32′′,1/4′′, 1/8′′
Soldering iron
Small Phillips screwdriver
Medium Phillips screwdriver
Z-bend pliers
Pliers

1

/16′′hex wrench
Small round file
Moto-Tool with sanding drum
Hobby knife with #11 blade
Mixing stick
Epoxy brush
90-degree triangle
Sanding stick (medium or fine)
Medium sandpaper
Masking tape
Straight edge
Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)
Scissors
Paper towels
Wax paper
Rubbing alcohol
Felt tipped pen

Optional Equipment

Radio packing foam
Antenna tube

5

Contents of Kit

Large Parts

A. Fuselage E. Horizontal stabilizer with elevators
B. Left wing half with aileron F. Cowl
C. Right wing half with aileron G. Wheel pants (2)
D. Vertical stabilizer with rudder

Other Parts

1. Pushrod & accessories 6. Fuel tank and hardware

2. 1/8′′ plywood die-cut parts 7. Trim sheet

3. Main landing gear 8. Metal motor mounts

4. Hardware bag 9. Canopy

5. Wheels 10. Tail wheel

6

Note: The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators

and rudder, are pre-hinged with the hinges installed,
but the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative
that you properly adhere the hinges and ailerons in
place per the steps that follow using a high quality thin
CA glue.

Step 1. Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing
panels. Note the position of the hinges. The CAP comes with
high quality CA-type hinges.

Step 2. Remove each hinge from the wing panel and place a
t-pin in the center of each. Slide each hinge into the wing panel
until the t-pin is snug against the wing.

Step 3. Slide the aileron onto the wing until there is only a
slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and
aileron. Remove the t-pin and snug the aileron against the wing
panel. This will ensure that the hinges are centered.

Step 4. Deflect the aileron and completely saturate the hinge
with thin CA glue. The aileron’s front surface should lightly
contact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinge
is glued in place, a 1/32′′gap or less will be maintained
throughout the length of the aileron. The hinge is constructed of
a special material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and
distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood
structure.

Section 1. Hinging the Ailerons

• Right wing panel with aileron and hinges

• Left wing panel with aileron and hinges

• Instant thin CA glue

• CA remover/debonder

• Paper towels

• T-pin (one for each hinge)

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

7

Step 5. Turn the wing panel over and deflect the aileron in the
opposite direction and from the opposite side. Apply thin CA
glue to each aileron hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates
into both the aileron and the wing.

Step 6. Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove
any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the wing or in
the aileron hinge area.

Step 7. Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely
hinging the aileron in place.

Step 8. After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp the
wing and aileron to check that the hinges are securely glued and
cannot be pulled out. Do this by applying medium pressure,
trying to separate the aileron from the wing. Use caution that you
do not crush the wing structure.

Note: Work the aileron up and down several times to “work

in” the hinges and check for proper movement.

CONTINUED

Section 1. Hinging the Ailerons

8

Step 1. Locate the dihedral brace (also called the wing joiner).
Using the ruler, determine the center of the brace and mark it
with a pencil.

Step 2. Trial fit the dihedral brace into one of the wing panels. It
should insert smoothly up to the center line marked in Step 1.
Now slide the other wing panel onto the dihedral brace until the
wing panels meet. If the fit is overly tight, it may be necessary to
sand the dihedral brace.

Step 3. Check for the correct dihedral angle. Place the wing on
a large, flat surface with one wing panel resting on the flat
surface. The opposite wing tip should be at 3′′in height from the
surface (see illustration below). If necessary, sand the dihedral
brace until this is achieved. There should be no gaps in the wing
center.

Step 4. To check for adequate clearance of the cowl between the
wing’s leading edge and the fuselage, trial fit the wing together
and temporarily install on the fuselage with the cowl installed. If
the clearance is not adequate, install the extra plywood center
wing rib to provide the necessary clearance (see diagram at left).

• Right/left wing panels

• Dihedral brace

• Plywood wing dowel plate

• Wooden dowels

• Wing bolt plates

• Wing trim tape (white)

• 30-minute epoxy

• 6-minute epoxy

• Epoxy brush

• Masking tape

• Hobby knife

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

• Wax paper

• Ruler

• Pencil

• Medium sandpaper

• Mixing stick

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

3′′

Clearance

Cowl

Wing

Fuselage

9

Step 5. Mix up approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy.

Note: It is extremely important to use plenty of epoxy when

joining the wing halves.

Step 6. Using a scrap piece of wood or an epoxy brush, smear a
generous amount of epoxy into the wing dihedral brace cavity in
one wing panel.

Step 7. Coat one half of the dihedral brace with epoxy up to the
pencil line drawn in Step 1. Note the orientation of the wing
brace — the “V” points to the top of the wing, or faces up. Install
the epoxy-coated side of the dihedral brace into the wing joint
cavity of the wing half, up to the center line, making sure the “V”
side of the dihedral brace is orientated correctly.

photo 4-6B

Step 8. Apply a generous amount of epoxy into the wing brace
cavity of the other wing panel.

Note: You will need to mix up additional epoxy to complete

the joining process.

Step 9. Now apply epoxy to all sides of the exposed area of the
dihedral brace and uniformly coat both wing roots with epoxy.

CONTINUED

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

10

Step 10. Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly
press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. There
should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol
and a paper towel to clean up any excess epoxy.

Step 11. Apply masking tape at the wing joint to hold the wing
halves together securely. Place the wing on a flat surface. With
one wing panel lying flat on the surface, the opposite wing tip
should be propped up so it is 3′′from the surface. Apply more
masking tape to the center wing joint and recheck the 3′′
measurement. Allow the wing joint to dry overnight.

Note: It is helpful to use wax paper underneath the wing

center while the epoxy is curing so the excess epoxy
does not adhere to the work area’s surface.

Step 12. Allow the wing center joint to completely cure, then
remove the masking tape.

Step 13. Locate the plywood wing dowel plate and use 6­minute epoxy to epoxy it in place on the front of the wing. When
installing the plywood dowel plate, care should be given to line
up the holes in the wing and the plate as closely as possible. The
holes will need to be trimmed out to allow the dowels to fit.

Step 14. Using 6-minute epoxy, epoxy the two wood dowels in
place such that 1/2′′is exposed.

CONTINUED

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

plywood wing dowel plate

11

Step 15. After the wing dowels and plywood wing dowel plate
have dried, you can mount the two white covered wing bolt
plates.

Note: The covering will have to be trimmed away from the

area of the bottom of the wing so the pieces can be
epoxied to the wing.

Trial fit the pieces, marking their location. Use a sharp hobby
knife to trim away the covering.

Caution: Be careful not to cut into the wood as this will

weaken the structure.

Step 16. Mix up 1 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and epoxy the wing
bolt plates to the bottom of the wing. The wing bolt plate holes
will be drilled out in Section 5.

Step 17. Locate the white and teal wing center tapes. Apply a
portion to the bottom of the wing after the epoxy has cured from
Step 15.

CONTINUED

Section 2: Joining the Wing Halves

12

Step 1. Locate the servo opening in one of the wing halves.
Install the recommended servo hardware supplied with your
radio system onto your servos (grommets and eyelets). Install a
servo extension lead to the servo as well (a 12′′extension is
recommended). Secure the connectors with either masking tape
or a commercial connector that prevents the servo connectors
from becoming disconnected.

Hint: It’s always a good idea to tape the servo connections

and extension together to prevent the wires from
becoming unplugged in the wing.

Step 2. Trial fit the servo into the servo opening. Some
trimming may be required, depending on the type of servo
installed.

Step 3. With the servo in place, mark the location of the servo
screws that are used to mount the servo to the plywood rail
inside the servo opening in the wing.

Step 4. Using a 1/16′′drill bit, drill the servo screw locations
marked in the previous step.

• Left/right wing halves

• Standard size servos (2)

• Servo extension(s) — (12′′recommended) (2)

• Music wire (36′′)

• Y-harness (if using a non-computer radio)

• Hobby knife

• Phillips screwdriver (medium)

• Drill

• 1/16′′ drill bit

• Masking tape

• Pencil or felt tipped pen

• Needle nose pliers

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

13

Step 5. Before mounting the servo, it would be wise to run the
servo lead and extension through the wing and out the opening
provided near the wing center. The servo lead exit is located on
the top of the wing. Turn the wing half over and look carefully for
a square opening near the center of the wing close to where the
wing joiner slot is. You will have to trim away the covering to
expose the opening. Using a sharp hobby knife, remove the
covering over the opening.

Step 6. Using a small diameter piece of music wire (36′′), thread
the music wire through the servo opening. You will have to guide
the wire as you thread it through the wing openings. Use care to
make sure you do not crush any of the wing structure. Once you
see the end of the music wire, a needle nose pliers can be used to
grasp the wire and pull it out of the opening.

Step 7. Once you have the music wire threaded through the
wing, make a small hook on one end and tape it to one end of the
servo wire/extension. Carefully thread the wire and lead through
the wing.

Step 8. To prevent the lead from falling back inside the wing,
use masking tape to temporarily hold it in place by taping the
lead to the wing top.

Step 9. Repeat the procedure for the other wing half.

Note: If using a non-computer radio, it will be necessary to

use a Y-harness to connect both aileron servos to the
aileron channel.

CONTINUED

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

14

Step 1. For this assembly, you will be using a short (4”)
threaded rod, two clevis and a regular and reverse control horn.
Use the 4/40 nuts as locking devices to keep the clevis from
turning. There is also a locking clip that keeps the clevis from
opening. The reverse control horn has an “R” marked on its
base; the standard horn has no marking. For illustration
purposes, we will describe the hookup of the linkage on the right
wing panel.

Step 2. Thread a 4/40 nut and clevis on each end of the
threaded rod. Next locate the standard horn. The mounting hole
plate should point toward the wing center. The link assembly
goes on the outer servo arm or the one pointing to the wing tip.

Step 3. To establish the length needed, trial fit the horn and
linkage to the servo arm. Adjustments in length are made by
screwing one or both clevis in or out. The control horn should be
positioned so the holes are over the center line of the hinge line.

Step 4. Once satisfied with the horn location (it should be a
straight line from the servo arm to the horn), mark the location
with a felt tipped pen. You will note the servo is positioned at an
angle to the wing, but is 90 degrees to the aileron hinge line.

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage

• Wing assembly from Section 2

• Left control horn

• Right (reversed) control horn

• Plastic plate (2)

• Screws (8)

• Short (4′′) threaded rod (both ends) (2)

• Clevis (4)

• 4/40 nuts (4)

• Medium Phillips screwdriver

• Drill

• Drill bits: 1/16′′, 3/32′′

• Felt tipped pen

• Moto-Tool

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

15

Step 5. Using a 3/32′′ drill bit, drill the screw holes for
mounting the control horn. Since the aileron balsa is soft, we
recommend applying thin CA into the aileron through the drilled
holes to saturate and stiffen the balsa in the mounting area.

Step 6. Attach the control horn to the aileron using four screws
and the plastic plate. Be careful not to accidentally puncture the
covering with the screwdriver.

Step 7. Repeat the process for the other aileron on the other
wing panel

Note: The control horn mounting screws may be excessively

long on some control surfaces, and you may wish to
cut off the excess length using a Moto-Tool, leaving a
minimum of 1/8′′ of mounting screw above the plastic
plate.

CONTINUED

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Linkage

16

Step 1. Insert the wing into the fuselage so that the wing dowels
project into the open area (holes) in the fuselage bottom. The
wing dowel supports are then slipped in place on the dowels by
putting them on through the fuel tank compartment.

Step 2. Center the wing so that the same space is on each side
of the fuselage between the forward wing section and the side of
the fuselage. Equal thickness spacers can be temporarily put in
these spaces to make sure the spacing is maintained.

Step 3. The wing dowel supports are lightly tack glued in place
by applying a small amount of epoxy or thick CA to a couple of
places along the top edge of the wing dowel supports. This will
have to be done by reaching through the fuel tank compartment.

Step 4. After the glue has dried, the wing can be removed and
the wing dowel supports’ exact location can be marked by
drawing alignment marks from the bulkhead onto the dowel
supports from inside the wing compartment.

Step 5. Remove the wing dowel supports by breaking them
loose from the tack gluing (be careful not to mix them up). Mix
up 1/2 oz. of 12-minute epoxy and glue the wing dowel supports
in place. Allow the epoxy to cure completely before attempting
the next steps.

Step 6. After the epoxy has cured, you are ready to install the
wing hold-down bolts.

• Wing

• Fuselage

• Plywood wing dowel supports (2)

• Wing hold down hardware

• 30-minute epoxy

• 12-minute epoxy

• Epoxy brush

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

• Mixing sticks

• Felt tipped pen or pencil

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

• Pliers

• Ruler

• Drill

• 1/4′′drill bit

• Round file

17

Step 7. Press the blind nuts into position below the rear wing
hold-down block in the rear portion of the fuselage wing area.
Use pliers with an adjustable opening to squeeze the blind nuts
so the “teeth” penetrate the wood and stay in place.

Note: It is important that the blind nuts be fully pressed in

against the bottom of the wing hold-down block to
make sure they are properly aligned. This sets the
alignment angle of the wing bolts.

Note: It’s a good idea to place a piece of wood on the top

side of the wing bolt hold-down block to keep from
crushing the wood.

After you’re are satisfied the wing blind nuts are in place, you

may want to apply epoxy or CA to the blind nuts to
keep them in place. Do not epoxy or CA the inner
threads.

Step 8. Thread the wing hold-down bolts into the bottom side of
the blind nuts so the ends of the bolts extend 1/8′′above the
wing seat.

Step 9. Carefully fit the wing into position on the fuselage,
sliding the leading edge dowels into the fuselage front wing
dowel support bulkhead.

Step 10. Before drilling the wing hold-down bolt holes, check
the wing alignment by measuring from each wing tip to the tail of
the fuselage. Be sure to use the same point on each wing tip
exactly the same distance on each side from the center of the
wing. Use a point at the tail of the fuselage bottom at the exact
center.

CONTINUED

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

18

Step 11. Once you’re satisfied with the alignment, press down
slightly but firmly on the rear section of the wing. The protruding
wing bolts will make an indentation in the top wing covering. By
comparing the wing top and wing bottom you can see the slight
angle required when drilling the holes in the wing for the wing
hold-down bolts.

Step 12. Using a 1/4′′drill bit, drill the exact center of the wing
indentations on the top of the wing, through the wing and wing
bolt plates. Use special care to note the angle of the bolts and
transfer that angle into the holes being drilled.

Step 13. Trial fit the wing into position on the fuselage. Thread
the wing hold-down bolts into the wing and loosely tighten.
Check the alignment of the wing by measuring the alignment as
you did in Step 10. It may be necessary to slightly enlarge the
holes with a small round file to obtain proper alignment.

CONTINUED

Section 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

19

Step 1. On the rear of the fuselage, slots are pre-cut in the wood
structure for the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical stabilizer.
You will need to trim away the covering with a sharp hobby knife.

Step 2. We will begin with mounting the horizontal stabilizer
first. Remove the elevators and, using a ruler, locate the center
line of the horizontal stabilizer. This line will serve as a reference
line when installing the horizontal stabilizer on the fuselage.

Step 3. Slide the horizontal stabilizer carefully into the slot
provided in the fuselage. You may have to trim the opening to
allow the horizontal stabilizer to be inserted. By noting the center
line you marked, position the horizontal stabilizer so that it’s
centered in the fuselage.

Step 4. Locate the center line of the fuselage and put a reference
mark there. Then, using a long straight edge, measure from the
reference point on the fuselage to the tip of the horizontal
stabilizer. Adjust the stabilizer position until both right and left
measurements are the same.

Now you can install the wing and sight the horizontal stabilizer
alignment from the rear of the aircraft. Make sure the horizontal
stabilizer is level with reference to the wing.

• Fuselage

• Wing

• Horizontal stabilizer with elevators

• Vertical stabilizer with rudder

• Instant thin CA glue

• CA remover/debonder

• 30-minute epoxy

• Epoxy brush

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• Straight edge

• Pencil

• Felt tipped pen

• Masking tape

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 6: Installing the Tail

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

• 90-degree triangle

• Ruler

20

Step 5. Trial fit the vertical fin in position. Make sure the fin is
inserted completely. Some slight trimming to the bottom of the
fin may be required. Carefully check the fin to be sure it’s aligned
90 degrees to the horizontal stabilizer. A 90-degree triangle is
helpful in this step.

Hint: When installing the vertical fin, use the rudder to

check for proper fin height. It may be necessary to cut
off a small amount from the bottom of the fin to get the
rudder to drop down to the proper position so the trim
between the rudder and and fuselage will line up.

Step 6. Double check the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin
alignment. It may be necessary to slightly trim the balsa wood on
the fuselage or fin with a sharp hobby knife to achieve exact
alignment.

Step 7. When you're satisfied with the alignment, carefully mark
the position with a pencil at the junction where the horizontal
stabilizer meets the fuselage top and bottom and where the
vertical fin meets the fuselage. The pencil should make a light
indentation in the covering.

Step 8. Remove the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin and
carefully cut away the covering with a sharp hobby knife. Cut
approximately 1/8′′inside the line of the horizontal stabilizer so
that when the stab is repositioned in place, no bare wood shows.
On the vertical fin, cut the covering away from the bottom of the
fin and 1/8′′from the reference line marked with the pencil.
Again, make sure no bare wood shows when the fin is
repositioned.

CONTINUED

Section 6: Installing the Tail

21

Step 9. Mix up approximately 2 ounces of 30-minute epoxy.
Slide the horizontal stabilizer into the opening of the fuselage.
Use an epoxy brush to apply epoxy to the horizontal stabilizer.
By sliding the stabilizer back and forth slightly, epoxy can be
applied on the top and bottom. Then reposition it to the reference
marks and clean off the excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a
paper towel. Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

Step 10. Apply 30-minute epoxy to the vertical fin where the
fuselage contacts the fin. Also, apply epoxy to the base of the fin
where it mounts into the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. Insert
the fin into the fuselage and wipe away any excess epoxy with a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Step 11. Precisely align the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical
fin as before, using masking tape to hold the components in
proper alignment. Double check the alignment and allow the
epoxy to cure completely.

CONTINUED

Section 6: Installing the Tail

22

Step 1. Locate the two elevator halves. Trial fit each into their
proper position using the same hinging techniques learned in
Section 1.

Step 2. With one elevator half properly aligned (left and right),
apply thin CA glue to the hinges on both sides. Wipe away any
excess CA with CA debonder and a paper towel.

Step 3. After the hinges are dry, check to be sure they are
securely in place by trying to pull the elevator from the horizontal
stabilizer. Use care not to crush the structure.

Step 4. Repeat the previous procedure for the other elevator
half.

Step 5. Be sure to wipe away any excess CA with CA debonder.

• Fuselage

• Elevators (2)

• Thin CA glue

• CA debonder

• Paper towels

• T-pins

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 7: Hinging the Horizontal
Stabilizer and Elevator

23

Step 1. Trial fit the rudder in position on the vertical fin with the
hinges in place. Note that three hinges attach the rudder to the
fin and two attach the rudder to the fuselage.

Step 2. Insert the tail wheel wire into the pivot bushing. With the
pivot bushing resting against the bend in the tail wheel wire, use
a needle nose pliers to make a 90 degree bend in the direction
shown below, 1/8′′above the top of the pivot bushing.

Note: The part of the tailwheel wire which inserts into the

rudder must go into the wood block in the rudder. To
insure adequate strength, the bend of the wire must be
kept as low as possible, or the wire will miss the
hardwood.

Step 3. Hold the tail wheel assembly up to the fuselage in a
position where it's flush with the fuselage bottom. Note where
the wire rests in reference to the rudder. Using a felt tipped pen,
mark the position where the hole is to be drilled into the rudder.
Also mark the position of the slot where the pivot bushing will fit
into the back of the fuselage.

Step 4. Remove the rudder from the vertical fin. Using a 3/32′′
drill bit, drill into the exact center of the rudder as marked to
accept the tail wheel wire as shown. You can also drill a 1/16′′
pilot hole first.

• Rudder

• Fuselage

• Tail wheel assembly

• Instant thin CA glue

• CA remover/debonder

• Blue Locktite 242

• 30-minute epoxy

• Drill

• Drill bits: 1/16′′, 3/32′′

• Needle nose pliers

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• Felt tipped pen

• Paper towels

• Rubbing alcohol

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and
Installing the Tail Wheel

24

Step 5. Using a hobby knife, cut a slot or groove into the back
of the fuselage vertical stabilizer as marked to accept the tail
wheel pivot bushing.

Step 6. Trial fit the tail wheel assembly and rudder into place.
Deflect the rudder, making sure the tail wheel turns freely with
the rudder.

Step 7. When you're satisfied with the fit, disassemble the rudder
and tail wheel assembly. Mix up approximately 1/4 ounce of 30­minute epoxy and apply it both to the pivot bushing where it goes
into the fuselage and to the hole in the rudder. With the hinges in
place, reassemble the tail wheel assembly and the rudder, wiping
away any excess epoxy with alcohol and a paper towel. Allow the
epoxy to cure completely before hinging the rudder.

Step 8. With the rudder aligned (up and down), apply thin CA
glue to the rudder hinges on both sides, using the same
technique learned in Section 1. Wipe away any excess CA with
CA remover/debonder. After the hinges are dry, check to be sure
they are securely in place by trying to pull the rudder from the
vertical stabilizer and fuselage. There should be a minimal gap
between the rudder and the vertical stabilizer.

Step 9. Work the rudder right and left. Check for free movement
and ensure that the tail wheel tracks accordingly.

Step 10. Once you're satisfied the tail wheel wire is correctly
aligned, slide the tail wheel itself onto the wire. Next, slide the
wheel collar onto the wire and tighten the screw in the wheel
collar. Use Blue Locktite 242 to secure the collar in place.

Note: The wheel must rotate freely with only a small amount

of side play. It may be necessary to drill out the tail
wheel slightly so the wheel will spin freely on the axle.

CONTINUED

Section 8: Hinging the Rudder and
Installing the Tail Wheel

25

Step 1. Locate a standard and reverse control horn and the
associated hardware. Note that on the bottom of the control
horns, the one with no markings is the standard horn and the
one with the “R” is the reverse control horn. The right (as relates
to the pilot sitting in the cockpit) elevator uses the standard horn,
the left elevator uses the reverse horn.

Step 2. It will be helpful to turn the aircraft upside down. For
illustration purposes we will describe installing the control horn
on the right elevator first (as relates to pilot sitting in cockpit).
Measure 1/2′′back from the hinge line of the elevator and make
a mark with a felt tipped pen.

Step 3. Locate the standard horn. Trial fit the horn on the
elevator with the flat part pointing toward the tip of the elevator
and the part that connects to the clevis being closest to the
fuselage.

Step 4. Line up the front edge of the horns with the mark you
made in Step 2 and make sure the horn is centered on the wood
frame of the elevator. Mark the screw holes with a felt tipped pen.

• Standard/reverse control horns (2 each, 4 total)

• Plastic plates (3)

• Screws (12)

• Fuselage with rudder and elevator

• Phillips screwdriver

• Drill

• Drill bits: 1/16′′, 3/32′′

• Ruler

• Felt tipped pen

• Masking tape

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

26

Step 5. Using a 1/16′′drill bit, drill four pilot holes for the horn.
After the pilot holes are drilled, you can use the 3/32′′drill bit to
complete the process.

Step 6. Trial fit the standard horn, using the four screws.
Carefully screw in the screws and engage the plastic plate on the
other side. We recommend covering the area around the horn
with masking tape to help prevent damage to the covering in
case the screwdriver slips. Once installed, repeat the process for
the left elevator.

Step 7. Locate a standard and reverse control horn, four screws
and one plastic plate. The reverse “R” control is installed on the
right side of the rudder as if you were sitting in the cockpit. The
standard control horn will be mounted on the left. The rudder
pull-pull control horns will be located 7/16′′back from the hinge
line of the rudder and approximately 3/8′′up from the bottom of
the rudder. Mark the location with a felt tipped pen. Trial fit one
horn and make sure the location does not interfere with the tail
wheel wire that was inserted into the rudder.

photo 9-7

Step 8. Once you are satisfied with the location, mark the screw
holes with a felt tipped pen.

Photo 9-8

Step 9. Drill holes using the same procedure as described in
Step 5. Again, use caution when drilling so the wood is not split.

photo 9-9

CONTINUED

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

27

Step 10. Mount the two horns on the rudder, one on either side,
with the standard horn on the left side and the reverse horn on
the right side. The plastic plate will be used as the retainer. Use
caution when screwing in the screws so that the covering is not
damaged if the screwdriver slips.

photo 9-10A

photo 9-10B

CONTINUED

Section 9: Installing the Control Horns

28

Step 1. Locate the mounting holes for the landing gear on the
forward part of the bottom of the fuselage. They are located
immediately forward of the wing area. Using a hobby knife, cut
the film covering the holes.

Step 2. Trial fit the aluminum main landing gear over the holes
in the fuselage. If the holes do not line up exactly, use a 3/16′′
drill bit to drill out the proper hole location. Use the main gear as
the template.

Step 3. Using the hardware provided, mount the main landing
gear to the fuselage. Apply Blue Locktite 242 to secure the nuts.

• Fuselage

• Main aluminum landing gear

• Mounting hardware

• Drill

• 3/16′′drill bit

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• Medium Phillips screwdriver

• Felt tipped pen

• Blue Locktite 242

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 10: Installing the Main Landing Gear

29

Step 1. Locate the two wheel pants and associated hardware.
Trial fit one wheel into the opening of a wheel pant. Using a felt
tipped pen or pencil, mark the center location of the wheel in the
pant. This mark will be used as a reference for marking the
mounting holes for the landing gear on the wheel pant.

Step 2. Locate the hole for the wheel axle 5/16′′up from the
centerline marked on one wheel pant. Mark it with a felt tipped
pen or pencil. Repeat the procedure for the other wheel pant,
noting which is the correct side.

Step 3. Place the wheel pant on the landing gear and note the
location of the main axle hole. Note that there is a smaller hole
directly above the axle. Do not mark this yet as this will be done
after the wheel is mounted. The purpose of this hole is to mount
a smaller screw to hold the wheel pant in position.

Step 4. Drill the axle hole using a 5/32′′drill bit. Trial fit the
wheel pant to the landing gear. It's helpful to drill a 1/8′′pilot
hole first.

Step 5. Locate the two plywood square braces. These will be
mounted inside the wheel pant as a brace for the mounting
hardware. Using the landing gear as a template, mark the
plywood braces, one for the axle hole and one for the brace hole.
Use a 5/32′′and 1/8′′ drill bit to drill out the holes. Use caution
to make sure you do not split the wood.

• Wheel pants

• 2-3/4′′wheels (2)

• Main landing gear

• Hardware

• Medium Phillips screwdriver

• Drill bits: 5/32′′,1/8′′

• Drill

• 12-minute epoxy

• Felt tipped pen or pencil

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 11: Assembling and Mounting
the Wheel Pants

30

Step 6. Mix up approximately 2 ounces of 12-minute epoxy.
Epoxy both plywood pieces to the wheel pant. Allow the epoxy to
cure completely.

Step 7. Locate the wheel and axle hardware. Each axle will have
the axle bolt, two washers, and 4 nuts. The brace screw and nut
are also part of the mounting hardware.

Step 8. The axle bolt is inserted into the wheel pant, then two
bolts are threaded on. Slowly insert the bolt until you can thread
it through a washer and then the wheel. When the axle bolt
passes through the wheel, insert a washer and then two bolts.
The two bolts on either side of the axle provide a means of
centering the wheel, as well as retaining it on the axle inside the
wheel pant. If you need to adjust the center of the wheel more,
you can use more washers (not provided).

Step 9. Repeat the wheel mounting process for the other wheel
and wheel pant.

Step 10. After the wheels are mounted, you can now mark the
smaller wheel pant bolt hole on both wheel pants. Make sure the
wheel pants are parallel to the center line of the aircraft. Mount
using the small wheel pant bolts and nuts provided.

CONTINUED

Section 11: Assembling and Mounting
the Wheel Pants

main landing gear

wheel pant bolt

plywood

nut

nut

washer

axle bolt

wheel

nut

washer

main

wheel pant

31

Step 1. Mix up approximately 2 oz. of 30-minute epoxy and
brush it on the firewall to seal it. Allow the epoxy to dry.

Step 2. Locate the two metal motor mounts and associated
mounting hardware. Note there are slots on the firewall, so the
width of the engine can vary.

Step 3. Mount the metal motor mounts on the firewall using the
hardware provided. Do not overtighten the bolts as the width of
the mount will vary with the size and type of engine mounted.

Note: It may be necessary to cut off the bottom motor mount

bolts flush with the nuts to insure that they do not
puncture the tank.

Step 3. Trial fit your engine on the motor mount. Once the
proper width has been determined, tighten down the motor
mount bolts. You can then remove your engine while completing
the following sections. Prior to installing the control linkages,
you will want to remount your engine.

Section 12: Installing the Engine

• Fuselage

• Metal motor mounts

• Mounting hardware

• Engine

• Phillips screwdriver

• Allen wrench

• 30-minute epoxy

• Epoxy brush

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

32

Step 1. Locate the fuel tank parts.

Step 2. Locate the black rubber stopper. Insert one brass tube

into one of the open holes in the stopper so an equal amount of
tube extends from each side. This tube will be the fuel tank
pickup tube that provides fuel to the engine.

Step 3. Locate the other brass tube and bend it using your
fingers as shown. This tube will be the fuel tank vent tube.

Step 4. Slide the vent tube into the other open hole of the
stopper as shown.

• Brass clunk (fuel pickup)

• Brass tube, long (vent)

• Brass tube, long (pickup)

• Fuel tubing, small

• Fuel tank

• Plastic cap (2)

• Rubber stopper

• 3mm screw

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• Small Phillips screwdriver

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 13: Assembling and Installing
the Fuel Tank

33

Step 5. Slide the two plastic caps over the brass tubes as
shown. Note the orientation of the caps. The small inside cap
and the “peg” faces away from the black rubber stopper. The
large outside cap and the “raised center” faces away from the
black rubber stopper.

Step 6. Locate the small diameter fuel tubing. This tubing will
be used for the fuel pickup inside the fuel tank. Insert the clunk
into one end of the fuel tubing.

Step 7. Install the open tube end of the tubing onto the pickup
brass tubing.

Step 8. Insert the 3mm screw into the center hole of the stopper
and tighten it until it just threads onto the black cap on the other
side of the rubber stopper.

Step 9. Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank. Note the
position of the vent tube. It must be at the top of the fuel tank to
function properly. Be sure the vent is positioned at the top. The
length of tubing can be shortened by cutting it with a sharp
hobby knife.

Step 10. Tighten the 3mm screw. This will allow the rubber
stopper to form a seal.

Important: Remember which tube is the fuel pickup and

which is the vent so you can properly connect
the fuel tank to the engine.

Step 11. Install fuel tubing onto the tubes and feed it through
the holes in the firewall as you press the fuel tank into position.
Foam in the tank compartment can be used to provide some
vibration damping and help support the fuel tank (foam not
included). Some trimming of the fuel tank location may be
necessary to fit the tank into the fuselage. Bend the brass tube
outside the tank to line up with the holes in the firewall.

CONTINUED

Section 13: Assembling and Installing
the Fuel Tank

34

Step 1. Locate the plywood servo rails and the two “U” shaped
plywood braces. Trial fit the servos on the rails. When you have
determined the proper spacing, mark the location of the rails.
Mix up 1 ounce of 6-minute epoxy. Apply the epoxy to the rails
and braces and install them in the fuselage compartment. Allow
the epoxy to cure completely.

Step 2. Locate three servos and install the grommets and
eyelets in all three per the instructions included with the radio.
Position the servos so there is ample room between the servo
horns. The rudder servo will utilize a pull-pull type of control
linkage, so leave ample room on either side of the servo horn.

Note: The rudder servo will be the center servo of the three

mounted.

Step 3. Once you’re satisfied with the servos’ location, use a felt
tipped pen or a pencil to mark the mounting holes of all three
servos.

Step 4. Drill the 12 holes with a 1/16′′drill bit. Screw the
servos in place using the 12 screws provided with the servos.

Section 14: Installing the Radio

• 4 channel radio system with 5 servos and hardware
(not included)

• Radio packing foam (not included)

• Antenna tube (optional, not included)

• Drill

• 1/16′′drill bit

• Small Phillips screwdriver

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• Pencil or felt tipped pen

• 6-minute epoxy

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

35

Step 5. Use radio packing foam (available at your local hobby
shop) when you install the receiver and battery pack. There is
ample room for the receiver and battery in the forward part of the
fuselage, in the area below the fuel tank. Wrap the battery and
receiver securely with foam and install them in the fuselage.

Step 6. Route the antenna back through the fuselage using an
antenna tube (not included), or route it outside the fuselage back
to the vertical fin. Install the switch on the left side of the
fuselage (typical installation).

Step 7. Hook up the servos and switch harness to the receiver
and battery pack as outlined in your radio’s instruction. Turn on
your transmitter and receiver to center the trims on your
transmitter. Turn off the receiver, then the transmitter, in that
order. Your servos should now be in their “electrical center”
position.

CONTINUED

Section 14: Installing the Radio

36

Step 1. The elevator linkage will be the first described, however
the construction sequence is up to the builder. Each linkage
(i.e., elevator, rudder and throttle) is approached differently. The
components for the elevator control linkage are made up of a
wooden rod, three threaded music wires, clevis and locking nuts.
Since the CAP 232 uses a split elevator, you will construct a
pushrod that has two threaded wires on one end for the two
elevators, and one shorter threaded rod to connect to the
servo horn.

Step 2. Drill a 1/8′′hole 2′′from each end of the wood rod. Bend
a 90 degree bend at the opposite end of each threaded rod. The
bent section should only be 1/8′′to 3/16′′ long. Cut off any excess
material so the rods fit. Round out the holes so the rods fit flush
against the wood pushrod. A groove should be cut to help secure
the rods in place when applying the epoxy. Use string or nylon
thread to wrap the wire.

Step 3. Trial fit the two long threaded rods into the hole on either
side of the wood control rod. Cut a groove for both to help secure
the rods. Once you’re satisfied with the fit, mix 1/4 ounce of 12­minute epoxy and apply it to the hole and area the rods will fit into.
Install the rods into the hole and wrap securely with nylon thread
or string. Coat the joint with epoxy and allow it to cure. Slide a
piece of heat shrink tubing over the end of the wooden pushrod
and, using a heat gun, shrink into place.

Step 4. Once the epoxy has cured, install the short rod on the
other end using the same proceed as described. Allow the epoxy
to cure completely before attempting to attach the clevis.

• Fuselage

•12′′x 4-40 rod – threaded one end (2)

•6′′x 4-40 rod – threaded one end

• 20” x 2mm rod – threaded one end w/nylon clevis

• .020 music wire 36′′

• 2-56 clevis w/clips (4)

• 2-56 threaded couplers (4)

• 2-56 lock (hex) nuts

• Wood pushrod

• 4-40 clevis w/clips (3)

• Shrink tubing

• Soldering iron

• Silver solder (Stay Brite)

• Needle nose pliers

• 12-minute epoxy

• String or nylon thread

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

• Drill

• 1/8′′drill bit

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

37

Step 5. The pull-pull type of linkage will be made up of music
wire, two threaded couplers, two clevis and locking nuts. You
will need to make two sets of linkages.

Step 6. Scrape or clean the ends of the wire. Using a soldering
iron, silver solder one of the threaded couplers to one end of the
music wire.

Note: It’s important to bend over approximately 3/8′′of the
music wire onto itself at the ends using a pair of pliers. This will
give a more secure mechanical solder joint as the silver solder
has more to “grab onto” than a straight end.

After the solder has cooled, check the security of the solder
connection by pulling on the connection. Attach a locking nut
and a clevis on the threaded coupler, and thread the other end
through the fuselage. Trial fit the linkage to the servo arm of the
rudder servo, compensating for the fact there will be a threaded
coupler and clevis attached. Once you’re satisfied with the
length, silver solder the coupler to the music wire. After the
solder has cooled, again check the security of the joint. Make up
a second linkage using the previous procedures. Once both
linkages have been constructed, trial fit in place by connecting to
the control horns of the rudder and servo. Final length
adjustments can be made at either or both ends of the linkage by
screwing the clevises in or out as needed.

Step 7. Locate the threaded rod for the throttle (2mm). Trial fit
the rod and note where it will pass through the fuselage formers.
There is a slotted opening on the firewall in the approximate
location of the carburetor arm, however you may have to make
adjustments as to where the holes need to be located. Once you
are satisfied as to the linkage path, drill the holes in the fuselage
former and, if necessary, in the firewall. A 1/8′′hole should
provide ample room for the linkage. Begin installing the throttle
control rod by attaching the clevis to the threaded end of the rod.
Thread the throttle control rod through the firewall and attach the
clevis to the engine throttle control arm.

Step 8. Note where the throttle control rod is in relation to the
throttle servo arm inside the fuselage. You will need to make a
Z-bend at the end of the rod and attach it to the throttle servo
arm. Make sure the engine carburetor barrel is in the 1/2open
position. This will allow for minor adjustments to the carburetor
opening by screwing the clevis in or out. Adjust so the throttle is
at half throttle when the servo is electronically centered.

CONTINUED

Section 15: Installing the Control Linkages

38

Step 1. Using a Moto-Tool, grind out the prop and cooling
openings in the front of cowl. Cut out the large “U” shape in the
bottom of the cowl so it will slide over the fuselage and landing
gear.

Step 2. Trial fit the cowl to your engine. Note those areas that
will have to be trimmed out, such as needle valve openings,
external fill openings, etc.

Step 3. Mark the locations with a felt tipped pen. For illustration
purposes we are showing the openings for the Saito 1.50
mounted in the CAP 232.

Step 4. Carefully cut out using a Moto-Tool.

Note: If you’re using another type of engine, it will be

necessary to carefully cut portions of the cowl that are
located differently from where we show with the
installation of the Saito 1.50.

Step 5. Slide the cowling onto the fuselage.

Note: It may be necessary to trial fit the cowl with and

without the engine muffler attached.

Step 6. Tape the cowl securely in position and check that it fits
correctly. There should be ample clearance (1/8′′around the
engine and muffler). Also check that the prop hub is centered in
the opening of the cowl and that the prop hub extends at least
3/16′′forward of the cowl. Locate the cowl hold-down screws so
there are two on either side of the cowl. Do not locate in a trim
area because the trim can be damaged as the screw is tightened
down. The blind nut location should be in the fuselage area, near
the bulkhead. Mark the four mounting holes with a felt tipped
pen.

Note: Be sure its cowl is pulled down tightly and held

securely prior to drilling a hole. a 1/16′′drill bit is
used to drill the holes.

• Fiberglass cowling

• 4-40 button head screws (4)

• 4-40 blind nuts (4)

• Rubber grommets (4)

• Drill

• 1/16′′drill bit

• Masking tape

• Moto-Tool with sanding drum

• Carbide cutter

• Sanding stick (medium/fine)

• Ruler

• Felt tipped pen

• Thick CA

• 1/16′′hex wrench

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling

39

Step 7. Once the mounting holes have been marked, and you’re
satisfied with the location, drill two holes on each side of the
cowl using a 1/16′′drill bit. Use masking tape to temporarily
hold the cowl in position. It is important the cowl be held down
tightly so there is a tight fit when the cowl is attached.

Step 8. Remove the cowling and enlarge the four holes in the
cowling just enough to fit the rubber grommets in place.

Note: On some engines where the carburetor is not easily

accessible, a removable fueling valve can be used.
Dubro’s DUB334 is an excellent choice and should be
available at your local hobby shop.

Step 9. With the cowling not on the fuselage, insert the 4-40
button head bolts through the holes you drilled. From inside the
fuselage, place a 4-40 blind nut on the bolt and pull on the
button head bolt to “set” the blind nut into the fuselage.

Note: You may wish to put a small drop of thick CA on the

flange of the blind nuts to help prevent them from
coming off the fuselage when installing the button
head bolt when attaching the cowling.

Step 10. Align the cowling on the fuselage and secure it with
the button head bolts. Do not over-tighten the bolts by smashing
into the rubber grommets as this will take away the vibration
isolation of the grommets.

Note: Four pieces of self-adhesive trim tape are included for

trimming the cowl.

CONTINUED

Section 16: Attaching the Cowling

40

Step 1. Locate the canopy and note the raised lines. You will
need to trial fit the canopy before beginning to trim it.

Step 2. Carefully check the canopy fit to the fuselage
periodically while trimming to make sure not too much material
is removed.

Step 3. Trial fit the canopy to the fuselage

Step 4. After confirming the fit of the canopy, attach it to the

fuselage using canopy glue, such as Pacer Formula 560. Use
masking tape to hold the canopy in place. Allow the glue to dry
at least 24 hours.

Note: After the canopy is set, apply the included trim tape

around the canopy edges for a finished look.

• Fuselage

• Canopy

• Scissors

• Canopy glue

• Masking tape

Parts Needed Tools and Adhesives Needed

Section 17: Attaching the Canopy

41

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is properly
balancing the model. Don’t inadvertently neglect this step. The
recommended C.G. (Center of Gravity) location for the first
flights with the CAP 232 is 5-5/8′′from the leading edge of the
wing, measured at the fuselage.

If necessary, add weight to either the tail or nose until the correct
balance is achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your local
hobby shop and work well for this purpose.

Section 18: Balancing the CAP 232

Section 19: Control Throw Recommendations

The following control throws offer a good place to start with for
you first flights. If only one rate is available on your radio, set up
the control throws for low rate for the first flights, then increase
the throws to your liking.

The 3D rates allow the CAP to perform the new generation of
aerobatic maneuvers, such as waterfalls, elevators and harriers.
However, they also make the model very sensitive. It’s
recommended that the 3D rates be tried only after becoming
familiar with your CAP. When using 3D rates, use 65% expo on
elevators to keep the model controllable. Also, be sure that
adequate mechanical advantage is maintained when adjusting
the elevator linkages for 3D rates, or flutter can occur.

Aileron Low Rate High Rate 3-D Rate

Up Down Up Down Up Down

measured furthest inboard:

1

/2′′7/16′′

3

/4′′5/8′′

3

/4′′5/8′′

Elevator Up Down Up Down Up Down
measured furthest inboard: 11/8′′ 11/8′′ 13/4′′ 13/4′′ 4′′ 4′′

Rudder

measured at the bottom Right/Left Right/Left Right/Left
of the rudder: 3′′ 41/2′′ 41/2′′

42

Range Test Y our Radio

Step 1. Before each flying session be sure to range check your
radio. This is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with
the antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. With
your airplane on the ground, you should be able to walk 30
paces away from your airplane and still have complete control of
all functions. If not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio
equipment checked out by the manufacturer.

Step 2. Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throttle,
rudder) move in the correct direction.

Step 3. Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per the
instructions included with your radio.

Adjusting the Engine

Step 1. Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure. At the
field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at full throttle and
adjust the idle and low speed needle so that a consistent idle is
achieved. Before you fly be sure that your engine reliably idles,
transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only when this is
achieved should any plane be considered ready for flight.

Pre-Flight at the Field

43

1994 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 1994

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code in

order for AMA liability protection to apply

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or
model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy
by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3
miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give
right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to
avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I
use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a
careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in
front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.
Only those persons essential to the flight operations are to be
permitted on the flying side of the line; all others must be on the
spectator side. Flying over the spectator side of the line is prohibited,
unless beyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum
permissible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight line
must be established, one side of which is for flying, with the other side
for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contest director
or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operations or as
having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show or
demonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. The
only exceptions which my be permitted to the single straight line
requirements, under special circumstances involving consideration of
side conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must be
jointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I will fly
it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA Safety
Code.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and
address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not
apply to models flown indoors.

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with gaseous
boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely hazardous fuels
such as those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes,
burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limited to,
rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, all
explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounted
devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions permitted are
rockets flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry Safety
Code or those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those
items authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory
Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case, models
using rocket motors as primary means of propulsion are limited to a
maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. Note: A model
aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able to
carry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) unless
I have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations from the
AMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by any
restriction(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This does
not apply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric
motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during,
participation in any model operations.

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I
become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator
areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless
beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently
allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur
Band frequencies.) Further, any transmitters that I use at a sanctioned
event must have a certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed
indicating that it was manufactured or modified for operation at 20 kHz
frequency separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz).

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a pre­existing model club flying site without a frequency sharing agreement
with that club.

AMA Safety Code

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