• 30-Minute Epoxy (HAN8002) • CA Remover/Debonder (PAAPT16)
• Pacer Z-42 Threadlock (PAAPT42) • CA accelerator (PAAPT15)
UltraCote® Covering Colors
• Black (HANU874) • Gold (HANU879)
• True Red (HANU866)
Before Starting Assembly
Before beginning the assembly of the Beast 100, remove each part from its bag for inspection.
Closely inspect the fuselage, wing panels, rudder, and stabilizer for damage. If you find any
damaged or missing parts, contact the place of purchase. Go over the covering using a heat
gun or sealing iron. It is best to use a heat gun to take away any wrinkles on curved surfaces
such as part of the fuselage, but make sure to apply pressure with a covering glove to make
the covering stick when it is still hot. Use caution while working around areas where the colors
overlap to prevent separating the colors. Also make sure to go over the edges and seams with
a sealing iron.
HAN101 – Sealing Iron
HAN141 – Sealing Iron
Sock
HAN100 – Heat Gun
HAN150 – Covering
Glove
4
Radio and Power Systems Requirements
• 7-channel computer radio system (minimum) with receiver • Large Servo Arms (JRPA236)
(6 pkgs)
• 3-Inch Double-Sided JR Arm (JRPA237) (1)
• 24-Inch Servo Lead Extension (JRPA102) (5) • JR Charge Jack Switch (JRPA004) (1)
• 36-inch Servo Lead Extension (JRPA103) (2) • Choke Ring (JRPA029) (For throttle servo
lead)
• JR 8711 or 8911HV metal gear high-torque digital servos (7) or equivalent
Caution: Only metal-geared digital servos of 320 oz-in torque or greater should be used on the
control surfaces except for the rudder that should use greater than 400 oz-in.
• (2) 2000mAh or larger Li-Po for receiver (A minimum of 4000mAh is required when using
super high-torque servos)
• 1350mAh or larger for ignition (4.8 or 6.0V))
The elevator installation requires:
Two servos and mixing through the radio Or Two servos and a JR® MatchBox™ (JPA0900)
The ailerons installation require:
Four servos and mixing through the radio Or Four servos and two JR® MatchBox
™
Recommended JR, JR SPORT and Spektrum Systems
• JR 12X
• JR XP9303
• JR X9303 2.4
• Spektrum™ DX7
Recommended Engine Setup
DA-100L
• In cowl mufflers
or
• MTW TD75 canisters with flex 50mm drop headers
• 26x12, 27x10 propeller
The Spektrum trademark is used with permission of Bachmann Industries, Inc.
5
Beast 100 Introduction and Optional Sun Cover
What do you get when one of RC’s greatest 3D pilots collaborates with one of full-scale
aviation’s greatest aircraft designers? The Beast, a giant-scale bi-plane with monoplane-like
flight characteristics, that blurs the line between 3D and precision aerobatic performance, and
more than lives up to its name.
The full-scale Beast is the brainchild of renowned aircraft restoration expert, Kevin Kimball, who
actually collaborated with 3D champ and Hangar 9 product developer Quique Somenzini on its
design. The brute power of its 410 hp engine combined with the finesse of its neck-snapping
370 degree/second roll rate make it one of the most formidable aerobatic planes ever created.
Drawing on his experience with the design of the full-scale Beast, Quique created this licensed
100cc reproduction for Hangar 9. He did so with the full cooperation of Mr. Kimball as well as
Bryan Jensen, the Beast’s pilot and owner, and Mirco Pecorari who designed the full-scale
plane’s trim scheme. At the heart of the model’s design is a rigid, lightweight airframe that
features thinner wings for better top speed and agility.
Beast 100 is one of the few truly scale but high-performance giant-scale RC planes that today
is available to modelers in the form of an ARF. The trim scheme of this plane is refreshing
among other models and as scale as it can be. However, due to the combination of dark
colors, it is best that the model does not stay under direct sun light for long periods of time to
avoid wrinkles in the covering. Darker colors absorb heat more than lighter colors. We strongly
recommend the use of a sun cover to protect the airplane at the field. Hangar 9 offers a white
plane sun cover (HAN9170) that you can purchase as an optional accessory and easily put on
the plane for complete protection of the covering.
6
A Word From The Creator Of The Beast
Most designers of cool machines like race cars, boats, motorcycles or airplanes constantly look
for ways to increase performance out of their designs. In many cases, this results in improved
designs as experience is gained. Evolution of design. The Beast is exactly this....the latest
evolution of the Model 12. While most Model 12 aircraft are 2-place aircraft, the Beast has
been modified to be a single seat aircraft. This reduced the weight of the basic aircraft and
eliminated some of the drag associated with the 2-place canopy.
There were three main design improvement goals in creating the Beast. Lighter weight,
increased power, and increased maneuverability. Several design changes to the Beast
were developed based on changes Quique Somenzini had developed for giant-scale RC
models. Weight was reduced 150 pounds (10%) through the use of titanium, carbon fiber,
and some lightweight components. Power of the 10,000 cc, 9-cylinder engine was increased
to 410 hp with modifications including high-compression pistons, fuel injection and advanced
micro-polishing of internal parts. Increased maneuverability was found by wingspan and tip
modifications, aileron design changes, improvements to the tail and CG. The Beast weighs
1420 pounds with 1850 pounds of thrust. This isn’t as good as most 3D RC models but is
far better than most full scale aerobatic airplanes. The Beast has a 2-second takeoff roll and
climbs at over 4000 feet per minute. A top speed of 250 mph and a roll rate of 365 deg/sec.
The Beast, in both full size and RC versions, is the product of shared information between RC
and Full Scale designers. The Hangar 9 Beast is a fantastic model airplane with outstanding
performance, great looks, and solid construction. Enjoy your Beast and let it “Roar to Life” at a
field near you!
Kevin Kimball
For more information on the full scale BEAST visit:
Pass the rod with some low viscosity lubricant
through the rudder and vertical fin separately.
This will lubricate the hinges on each side
and help remove any dirt in the hinges.
Note, the rod is 1mm in diameter as seen in
the picture below.
Step 2
Iron the edges then line up the hinges on the
rudder and vertical fin.
Lubricate the rod with a low viscosity lubricant
and push it through the hinges. A drill would
make this easier. If binding, back out and
slowly push the rod through. Putting too much
pressure when binding would buckle the rod.
8
Rudder Vertical Fin and Control Horn Installation
Required Parts
• Rudder
• Vertical fin
• Hinge rod
• Rudder control horn hardware
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Hobby knife, #11 blade
• Ruler
• Thin CA
• Threadlock
• 30-minute epoxy
• Towel, alcohol swabs
• Crescent wrench or pliers
Step 1
Insert the vertical fin in the fuselage. Mark
the edges using a pen.
Note that the vertical fin fits tightly in the
fuselage. If you have any problem dry fitting
the covering on the vertical fin, DO NOT
force it in as you may break the fuselage
opening. Remove some covering on the
conservative side until the vertical fin fits in
the fuselage. You can use pictures in Step 2
as reference.
Step 2
Remove the vertical fin and covering 1/8 inch
inside the lines you marked. Make sure not
to scar the vertical fin. Use a new blade and
change as needed. Then go over the edges
with a heating iron.
If you scar the balsa, go over it with thin CA
before final assembly.
Note the measurements shown in the
following pictures are approximate. Make sure
to go by your markings.
9
10
Step 3
Install the rudder control horn by passing the
bolt through the rudder. Use a drill on a slow
speed for ease of installation. It would be best
to have the bolt centered on the rudder.
11
Step 4
Put the nut on with threadlock and tighten
them on both sides. Install the control horn so
the distance between the hinge line and pivot
point of the horn measures 1 1/4 inch. Test
this by installing the arm, if one control horn
is off, you won't have a straight shot at 1 1/4
inch hole of the arm.
12
Step 5
Go over the covering on the fuselage opening
with a heating iron. Glue the vertical fin to
the fuselage using either 30-minute epoxy or
wood glue. Wipe out the excess with alcohol
swabs. In case of using wood glue make sure
to allow 24 hours for wood glue to cure. The
advantage of using wood glue is that you can
easily clean the excess glue with water.
Step 6
Bend the rudder hinge rod 90 degrees toward
the aft of the rudder and put clear tape on it.
13
Landing Gear and Wheel Pants Assembly
Required Parts
• Fuselage assembly • Main landing gear
• #8 washer (4) • 8-32 locknut (4)
• Axle w/nut (2) • #4 washer (4)
• 4-40 blind nut (4)
1
• 4
/2-inch (114mm) wheel (2)
• 4-40 x 1/2-inch socket head screw (4)
• 5/32-inch wheel collar with setscrews (4)
• #12 wrench and crescent wrench
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Threadlock
• Hex wrench: .050-inch, 3/32-inch
Step 1
Install the shaft on the gear.
Step 2
The landing gear should be installed such
that it is swept forward. Install the wheel
collar. Use threadlock on the setscrew. It is
best to file the axle where the setscrew sits.
Follow the measurement shown for the wheel
to be centered in the pant.
14
Step 3
Install the other wheel collar, as in previous
step. Leave a small gap between the wheel
and collar to avoid braking. The wheel should
turn freely. Tighten the nut on the axle using a
#12 and a crescent wrench.
Step 4
Install the wheel pants and secure them using
the screws provided. Use threadlock on the
screws.
15
Horizontal Stab Installation
Required Parts
• Stab assembly
Required Tools and Adhesives
• Thin and medium CA
• Acetone
• Hobby knife
• 32 - 36-inch Ruler
• Marker
Step 5
The landing gear is fully assembled
and ready to install in the fuselage. Use
threadlock on bolts and complete the
installation.
Note: Make sure the horizontal
stab is completely centered and
square. If you feel the need to
make measurements 5 times
or more, please do so. Once
the stab is glued, modifications
would be extremely difficult.
Step 1
Three accurate measurements are required
to ensure the stab is placed correctly.
1. The distance from the tip of the stab to the
fuselage should be equal on both sides.
2. The distance from the tip of the stab to
behind the turtle deck should be equal.
3. Insert the bottom wing and check stab
alignment by looking from the aft of the
aircraft forward.
16
The measurement should read approximately
16 13/16 inch from the fuselage to the tip of
the stab as shown in the first picture of Step
1 and 29 1/2 inch from the turtle deck to the
tip of the trailing edge of the stab as shown
above. Please note that it is the builders
responsibility to ensure correct measurements
of the plane. The above numbers are given
as an estimate.
Step 2
Once measurements are taken and you feel
comfortable with them, mark the stab with
a marker or pen. Remove the stabs and
remove the covering 1/8 inch inside your
markings. Go over the covering and edges
using a heating iron.
It is very important you do not scar the stab
while removing the covering. Make sure to
use new blades and change as needed. If
you scar the stab, apply thin CA over that
area.
17
Step 3
Reinsert the stab. Make measurements and
make sure it is where it should be.
With the plane sitting upright and without
moving it, use super thin (thin) CA to glue the
stab to the fuselage. Do not move anything,
thin CA will be absorbed. Glue little by little so
the covering won't be saturated with CA. Glue
on the left and right side of the stab and allow
time for the balsa to absorb the CA.
Next flip the plane to knife edge and repeat
the procedure all around the stab, top and
bottom.
Use a CA extension nozzle and apply some
CA from the elevator opening in the fuselage
over the stab and braces.
Watch for running CA. If you move the plane
before the CA is set, the CA will run onto the
covering. 30 minutes after this process, use
CA accelerator lightly and quickly. From 1 foot
away spray over the stab and fuselage.
18
.
Step 4
To ensure your stab is properly glued, apply
extra CA (medium) by extending your hand
inside the fuselage and applying some CA
over the horizontal bracing and stab.
1919
Elevator Hinging
Required Parts
• Left elevator
Required Tools and Adhesives
• 30-minute Epoxy
• Alcohol swabs
• Petroleum jelly
• Mixing cup and tooth pick
• Heating iron
Step 1
The left elevator half is not hinged on the stab
side so you are able to glue the stab in the
fuse. Go over the edges with a heating iron.
Then apply some petroleum jelly to the pins.
Avoid getting oil on the hinge itself. Wipe with
alcohol if that happens.
Step 2
Using 30-minute epoxy, glue all the way in
and around the pocket walls of the pockets in
the stab. Then apply some to the hinge itself.
2020
Step 3
Mate the elevator and stab. Make sure there
is not too much of a gap between the two.
Use the other side of the elevator gap as
reference. Move the elevator through its full
up and down deflection to ensure there is
no binding. Wipe excess glue. Secure the
elevator with masking tape and wait until the
epoxy cures.
21
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