Hangar 9 AT-6 Texan Assembly Manual

Congratulations on your purchase of the Hangar 9®At-6 Texan ARF. Although this is an ARF (Almost Ready-to-Fly) kit, it
does have some construction features that can be challenging to the less experienced modeler. If you encounter difficulty
in any construction sequence, please feel free to contact one of our technicians—we stand ready to provide any
assistance we can concerning the construction of your Hangar 9 AT-6 Texan .60-Size ARF.

AT-6 Texan

.60 ARF

TM

Specifications

Wingspan: .............. 67.5 in (1714mm)

Length:.................... 48 in (1219mm)

Wing Area:............. 706 sq in (45.54 sq dm)

Weight:................... 7–8.5 lb (3.17–3.85 kg)

Engine: ..................... .60–.78 2-Stroke

.65–1.00 4-stroke

Radio:...................... 5-channels w/5 ser vos

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

®

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

2

Table of Contents

Warranty Information

Horizon Hobby, Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material
and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any
parts damage by use or modification. In no case shall Horizon Hobby's
liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Horizon Hobby
reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Horizon Hobby has no control over the final assembly or material used
for the final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled
product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all
resulting liability.

Once assembly of the model has been started, you must contact Horizon
Hobby, Inc. directly regarding any warranty question that you have. Please do
not contact your local hobby shop regarding warranty issues, even if that is
where you purchased it. This will enable Horizon to better answer your
questions and service you in the event that you may need any assistance.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of
this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and
unused condition to the place of purchase.

Horizon Hobby

4105 Fieldstone Road

Champaign, Illinois 61822

[phone]

www.horizonhobby.com

Table of Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Warranty Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Contents of Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Required Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Section 2: Joining the Wing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Section 5: Installing the Retract Servo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wheels and Fairings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Section 7: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Section 10: Installing the Rudder and Tail Wheel Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Section 11: Installing the Elevator and Rudder Control Horns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Section 12: Assembling the Fuel Tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35

Section 13: Mounting the Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Section 14: Installing the Radio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Section 15: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Linkage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Section 16: Attaching the Cowl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Section 17: Attaching the Canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Section 18: Application of Decals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Control Throws and Center of Gravity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Preflight at the Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

Adjusting your Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51

2003 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

3

Contents of Kit

Large Parts

A. Fuselage (HAN1927)
B. Wing Set w/Joiner (HAN1926)

(does not include retracts)
C. Mechanical Retract Set (HAN1930)
D. Tail Set (HAN1928)
E. Fiberglass Cowl (HAN1929)
F. Canopy (HAN1936)
G. Decal Sheet (HAN1932)

Additional Required Equipment

Radio Equipment

• 5-channel radio system (minimum)

• 5 standard servos (JRPS537 recommended or
equivalent)

• 1 Low-Profile Retract Servo (JRPS703)

Recommended JR Systems

• JR XF652

• JR XP783

• JR XP8103

• PCM 10X

Recommended Engines

• .60–.78 2-cycle engines

• .72–1.00 4-cycle engines

2-Cycle Engines

MDS™ .68 FS Pro
MDS .78 FS Pro
Evolution Engines™ .61 NT

4-Cycle Engine

Saito™ .72–1.00

Small Parts

1. Main wheels (HAN1934)

2. Tail wheel assembly (HAN1931)

3. Fuel tank

4. Scale details (HAN1935)

5. Landing gear fairings

6. Pushrods (HAN1933)

7. Wood parts

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Warning

Other Items Needed (not included in the kit)

4

Additional Required Tools and Adhesives

Tools

• Drill

• Drill Bits: 1/16", 1/8", 3/32", 5/32"

• Phillips screwdriver (small, medium)

• Pliers

• Moto-tool w/cut-off wheel

• Hobby knife with #11 blade

• 90-degree triangle

• Straight edge

• Canopy scissors

• Side cutters

• Adjustable wrench

• Hex wrench

Other Required Items

• Mixing sticks for epoxy

• Epoxy brushes

• Rubbing alcohol

• Sanding bar

• Sandpaper (medium)

• Paper towels

• Wax paper

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Measuring device (e.g., ruler, tape measure)

• T-pins

• Radio packing foam

Adhesives

• Thin CA (cyanoacrylate) glue

• Thick CA (cyanoacrylate) glue

• CA remover/debonder

• 6-minute epoxy

• 30-minute epoxy

• Pacer Z-42 Threadlock

• Canopy glue (RC-56)

• Masking tape (3M blue recommended)

• Propeller (consult your engines instruction manual)

• 18” Servo Extension (JRPA099) (4)

• Large Servo Arm (JRPA212) (1 pk)

An RC aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas,
preferably at AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your
radio and engine.

5

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

Parts Needed

• Right and left wing panels w/ailerons

• CA hinges

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Instant thin CA glue

• CA remover/debonder

• Paper towels

• T-pins (one for each hinge)
Caution: The control surfaces of the AT-6

Texan, including the ailerons, elevators and
rudder, come with the hinges installed, but the
hinges are not glued in place. The hinge is
constructed of a special material that allows
the thin CA to “wick” (penetrate) and distribute
throughout the hinge, securely bonding them
to the wood structure. It is imperative that you
properly secure the hinges in CA glue.

Step 1

Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing panels,
noting the position of the hinges. The Texan comes with
high-quality CA-type hinges.

Step 2

Remove each hinge from the wing panel and place a T-pin
in the center of each hinge as shown. Slide each hinge
into the wing panel until the T-pin is snug against the
trailing edge of the wing panel.

Step 3

Slide the aileron onto the wing until there is only a
slight gap between the wing panel and aileron. The
hinge is now centered in the wing panel and the
aileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron up
against the wing panel.

6

Section 1: Hinging the Ailerons

Step 4

Deflect the aileron and completely saturate the hinge with
thin CA glue. Be sure not to deflect the aileron too far; the
top of the aileron should just touch the top of the wing
trailing edge. When the hinge is glued in place, there
should be no more than a 1/32" gap maintained
throughout the length of the aileron.

Step 5

Turn the wing panel over, deflect the aileron in the
opposite direction and apply thin CA to the other
side of the hinges as in the previous step. Make
sure the thin CA penetrates completely into both the
aileron and wing panel.

Step 6

Using CA remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove
any excess CA glue that has accumulated on the wing
or aileron surface. Allow time for both ailerons to
completely dry.

Step 7

Firmly grasp the wing and aileron and, applying medium
pressure, check that they are securely attached and cannot
be pulled apart. Use caution when gripping the wing and
aileron as not to crush the structure.

Step 8

Work the aileron up and down several times to “work in”
the hinges and check for proper movement.

Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the opposite
wing and aileron.

7

Section 2: Joining the Wing

Parts Needed

• Center wing section w/retracts installed

• Right wing panel assembly

• Left wing panel assembly

• Wing joiners

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Ruler

• Masking tape

• 30-minute epoxy

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

Step 1

Locate the wing joiners. Note that the “V” in the joiner is
not centered. The longer end inserts into the center wing
panel. Test fit the joiners into the center section and make
sure they inserts up to the “V.” Mark the joiners for ease
of reference while gluing the wing panels together.

Step 2

Trial fit the tip panels onto the center section. The panels
should meet with no gaps present on the top or bottom.

Step 3

Check for correct dihedral angle. Place the wing on
a large flat surface with the center panel resting flat
on the surface. Each wing tip panel should be 2" from the
surface measured to the bottom of the tip panel. If
necessary, sand the wing joiner until the proper dihedral
is achieved. There should be no gap at the wing joint.
Once you are satisfied with the fit, separate the wing
panels and remove the wing joiner.

Note: Read through the remaining steps of
this section before proceeding to epoxy the
wing panels together.

Hint: It is extremely important to use plenty
of epoxy when joining the wing panels
together. It will also be helpful to use wax
paper under the wing joints to avoid gluing
the wing to your worktop.

Step 2 photo

8

Section 2: Joining the Wing

Step 4

Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Using an
epoxy brush, apply a generous amount of epoxy to the
wing joiner cavity of the center wing panel.

Step 5

Completely coat the long half of the wing joiner with
epoxy up to the V-bend. Insert the epoxy coated side
of the joiner into the wing joiner cavity up to the
mark on the joiner.

Step 6

Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the wing tip panel
joiner cavity.

Step 7

Apply epoxy to the exposed portion of the wing joiner
and to both wing roots. Locate the servo lead string in
the wings center and tip section and tie them together.
Try not to get any epoxy on the string.

Step 8

Carefully slide the tip and center wing panels together.
Firmly press them together, allowing the epoxy to run out.
Use alcohol and paper towels to wipe off the excess
epoxy. Check to make sure there are no visible gaps
between the two wing panels.

9

Section 2: Joining the Wing

Step 9

Use masking tape to securely hold the tip panel and
center section together. Place the wing assembly back
onto the flat work surface (covered with wax paper) and
check the dihedral again as in Step 3. Allow the epoxy to
setup before joining the opposite tip panel.

Step 10

Repeat the previous Steps 1 through 9 for the
opposite wing panel.

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Note: The aileron servo will be mounted

to the hatch.

Parts Needed

• Wing assembly

• Aileron servos w/mounting hardware (2)

• Servo hatch screws (#2 x 3/8") (8)

• 18" servo wire extension (JRPA099) (2)

• Large Servo Arm (JRPA212) (1 pkg)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Thin CA • Thick CA

• Phillips screwdriver

Step 1

Locate the aileron hatch on the underside of the wing
panel and remove it from the wing. Cut out the slot for
the servo arm at this time. Locate the servo lead extension
exit holes on the top of the inboard portion of the wing.
Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut away the
covering over the hole.

Step 1 photo

Step 1 photo

10

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Step 2

Install the recommended servo hardware (grommets
and eyelets) supplied with your radio system onto
the aileron servo. Temporarily install a long half
servo arm (JRPA212) onto the servo and test fit the
servo to the hatch. The servo output shaft and control
arm should be centered in the slot of the hatch. Once
satisfied, mark the location for the servo mounting blocks.

Step 3

Locate the servo mounting blocks. Using a few drops of
thin CA, tack glue them in place on the marks made in
the previous step. Check the fit of the servo between the
mounting blocks. When satisfied with the fit, permanently
glue the mounting blocks in place by first wicking thin CA
between the mounting blocks and the hatch, and then
using thick CA create a fillet around the base. Let the CA
completely dry before proceeding to the next step.

Step 4

Place the aileron servo between the mounting blocks and
use a felt-tipped pen to mark the location of the four servo
mounting screws. Note that the servo must not touch the
hatch in order to isolate engine vibration.

Note: Before mounting the servo, we suggest
that you electronically center the aileron servos
and install the servo arm to avoid having to
remove the servo to mount the servo arm in
subsequent steps.

Step 5

Remove the servo and using a 1/16" drill bit, drill the four
servo mount screw holes marked in the previous step.
Using the screws supplied with your radio system, mount
the servo to the mounting blocks.

11

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Step 6

Locate the aileron Servo Lead Extension (18") (JRPA099)
and connect it to the aileron servo lead. Secure the
connectors by tying them in a knot or use a commercial
connector that prevents the servo lead connections from
becoming disconnected.

Hint: It is always a good idea to secure the
servo connectors and servo extension together
to prevent the wires from becoming unplugged
inside the wing.

Step 7

Locate the preinstalled string in the servo hatch opening
and tie it to the servo lead extension connector. Locate the
other end of the string in the exit hole you uncovered in
Step 1 and carefully fish the servo lead and extension
through the wing.

Note: Tape the servo extension connector to
the topside of the wing to prevent the
connector from slipping back into the wing
structure.

Step 8

Place the servo hatch assembly back into the opening
and check the fit. Once satisfied with the fit, measure in
from each corner 1/8" and using a 1/16" drill bit, drill
the four mounting screw holes through the hatch and
plywood tab underneath.

Step 7 photo

Step 7 photo

Step 5 photo

12

Section 3: Installing the Aileron Servos

Step 9

Locate four #2 x 3/8" wood screws and, using a Phillips
screwdriver, secure the hatch to the wing.

Step 10

Repeat Steps 1 through 9 for the opposite aileron servo.

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control

Horns and Linkages

Parts Needed

• Wing assembly • Control horn (2)

• Horn back plate (2) • Mounting screws (6)

• Clevis (2) • Clevis keeper (2)

• Wire keeper (2) • Wing strakes (4)

• Aileron control wire (6" threaded on one end) (2)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Drill • Drill Bit: 1/16"

• Pliers • Side cutters

• Triangle • Masking tape

• CA • Paper towels

• 30-minute epoxy • Rubbing alcohol

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

Step 1

Locate the aileron control horn, back plate and
three mounting screws.

13

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Linkages

Step 2

Place the wing assembly upside down on a flat work
surface. Place a triangle on the aileron hinge line and
slide it up against the servo control arm as shown.
Using a felt-tipped pen or pencil, mark the leading
edge of the aileron. This will be the location for the
center of the control horn.

Step 3

Place the aileron control horn on the mark made in the
previous step, aligning the center of the control horn on
the mark. Also align the clevis holes in the horn with the
aileron hinge line as show below and mark the location of
the three mounting screws.

Step 4

With the mounting hole locations marked, drill the holes
for the mounting screws using a 1/16" drill bit. Be sure to
drill straight through the aileron at a 90-degree angle
to the flat work surface not to the surface of the aileron.

Step 5

Using a small Phillips screwdriver, attach the control horn
using the provided hardware.

14

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Linkages

Step 6

Locate the aileron control wire (6" threaded on one end)
and thread on a clevis a minimum of 12 turns. Attach
the clevis to the middle hole in the control horn. To
hold the aileron at the neutral position, place a piece
of masking tape on the aileron to secure it to the wing
trailing edge. With the aileron at neutral and aileron servo
electronically centered, mark the wire where it crosses
the aileron servo arm.

Step 7

Remove the clevis and wire from the control horn and
make a 90-degree bend at the mark made in the previous
step. Cut off the excess wire leaving 5/16" remaining after
the 90-degree bend.

Step 8

Re-attach the clevis, securing it to the horn using a clevis
keeper. Slide the other end of the wire through the aileron
servo arms outermost hole and secure it with a wire
keeper as shown.

Step 9

Repeat Steps 1 through 8 for the opposite aileron control
horn and linkage.

15

Section 4: Installing the Aileron Control Horns and Linkages

Step 10

Locate the wing strake pieces (4), noting the top and
bottom. Using CA glue, join the top and bottom strake
pieces together forming an airfoil shape. Place the strakes
centered over the right and left wing joint and mark their
position using a pencil.

Step 11

Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and coat the wing
between the lines made in the previous step and install
the strakes using the lines as a reference. Tape them in
position and clean up the excess using a paper towel and
rubbing alcohol.

16

Section 5: Installing the Retract Servo

Parts Needed

• Wing assembly

• Retract servo-mounting plate (1)

• Balsa retract servo rails (2)

• Retract servo w/hardware (1) (JRPS703)

• Easy connector (2)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• CA • Drill

• Drill Bit: 1/16" • Side cutters

• Phillips screwdriver • Felt-tipped pen

• Hobby knife
Note: The retract mechanism and retract

control wires for the Texan come preinstalled
from Hangar 9

®

. The Texan retract system is
designed to use a Low-Profile Retract Servo,
such as the JRPS703.

Step 1

Locate the balsa servo mounting rails. Trial fit these into
the wing center section as shown. It may be necessary
to open up the center notch in the rails to fit over the
center root ribs. Trim away the balsa with a sharp
hobby knife until the desired fit is achieved. Glue
the rails in place using CA.

Step 2

Trail fit the retract servo mounting plate to the servo rails
installed in the wing assembly. Trim the plate if necessary
and secure the plate to the servo rails using CA glue.

Step 3

Install the servo mounting hardware included with your
retract servo, (rubber grommets and eyelets). With the
servo wheel removed, install the servo as shown with the
output shaft towards the leading edge of the wing.

Note: It may be necessary to trim a notch into
the root ribs to allow clearance for the
mounting tabs of the servo.

Step 1 photo

17

Step 4

With the servo in place, use a 1/16" drill bit to drill the
pilot holes for the servo mounting screws and secure the
retract servo using the screws supplied with the servo.

Caution: Drill only deep enough for the
mounting screws. If you drill too deep, the bit
will come out through the bottom wing skin.

Step 5

Using a felt-tipped pen, mark the retract control wires
where they pass over the center of the servo output shaft.
Mark the wire in both the extended/locked and
retracted/locked position. Then measure the distance
between the marks as shown below. In this case the
measurement was 3⁄4".

Step 6

Next, locate the servo wheel and find the set of holes that
match the measurement and install the quick links into
that set of holes.

Step 7

Connect the retract servo to your radio system and
electronically move the servo to the extend position. Slide
the retract control wires through the quick connects as
shown and secure the servo wheel to the retract servo.

Section 5: Installing the Retract Servo

Step 5 photo

18

Section 5: Installing the Retract Servo

Step 8

With the retract servo in the extended gear position, pull
on the retract wires to manually extend the landing gear.
Tighten the set screw on the quick connects.

Step 9

Cycle the retract system several times and check to make
sure there is no binding. Also check that the landing gear
locks in both the retracted and extended position.

Step 9 photo

Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear

Wheels and Fairings

19

Parts Needed

• Wing assembly

• Main landing gear wheels (2)

• Large wheel collars w/set screws (4)

• Landing gear fairing (2)

• Fairing mounting straps (4)

• Mounting screws w/washers (8)

• Locknuts (8)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Threadlock • Hex wrench (supplied)

• Drill • Drill Bit: 1/8"

• Ruler • Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Adjustable wrench

• Phillips screwdriver (small)

Step 1

Locate the large wheel collars and slide one onto the
landing gear wire as shown. Using threadlock on the
setscrew, secure the wheel collar in place.

Step 2

Slide the main landing gear wheel onto the wire and
secure the wheel in place with another wheel collar.

Step 3

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 for the other main landing
gear wheel.

Step 4

With both main wheels installed on the landing gear,
check to make sure there is no binding of the wheels in
the wheel wells. This is best checked by hooking up the
retract servo to your radio system and operating the servo
via the transmitter.

Note: If there is binding, it may be necessary
to slightly bend the main landing gear wire to
free up the wheel. Two pairs of pliers work
well for this, using one pair to hold the base of
the wire without putting any pressure on the
retract mechanism.

Step 2 photo

20

Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wheels and Fairings

Step 5

Locate the landing gear fairing, two mounting straps,
mounting screws, nuts and washers.

Step 6

With the landing gear retracted, fit the fairing to the
bottom of the wing as shown, lining up the fairing
with the indention in the molded wheel well. Use a
felt-tipped pen to mark the location of the wire on both
ends of the fairing.

Step 7

Turn the fairing over and draw a line from the top to the
bottom using the marks made in the previous step as a
guide. Measure 1" from the top and 3/4" from the bottom
and make a mark. Draw a line 90-degrees to the first line
at the 1" and 3/4" marks. Next, mark the screw hole
locations using the straps as a guide.

Step 8

Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill through the fairing as shown.

21

Section 6: Installing the Main Landing Gear Wheels and Fairings

Step 9

With the landing gear extended, remove the wheel and
mount the fairing to the landing gear using the mounting
straps, screws and locknuts. Once both fairings are
installed, test the retract unit to ensure the mounting
screws do not bind in the wheel well.

Section 7: Mounting the Wing to the

Fuselage

Parts Needed

• Fuselage • Wing assembly

• Wing dowels (2) • Wing bolt plate

• 1/4" x 20 wing mounting bolts (2)

• 1/4" x 20 blind nuts (2)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Hobby knife • Long ruler

• Hex driver 3/16" • 6-minute epoxy

• Thin CA • Slip-joint pliers

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

Step 1

Locate the wing dowels and make a mark 3/8" from
one end. Next, glue the wing dowels in place using
6-minute epoxy. Insert the dowels up to the mark
made, leaving 3/8" of dowel to key into the mounting
holes in the fuselage.

Step 9 photo

Step 1 photo

Step 1 photo

22

Section 7: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

Step 2

Locate the predrilled holes in the fuselage wing mount
plate and install the blind nuts into these holes. Seat the
nuts completely into the plate using a 3/8" socket and
3/16" hex wrench as shown. Once seated, wick thin CA
around the back of the nut to secure it in place.

Step 3

Locate the predrilled holes in the wing trailing edge and
use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering as shown.

Step 4

Locate the plywood wing mounting plate. Align the
plate with the trailing edge of the wing, centered
between the predrilled holes as shown. Mark the outline
of the plate with a felt-tipped pen/pencil. Use a sharp
hobby knife to trim away the covering 1/16" inside the
lines you just drew.

Step 5

Mix 1/2 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and coat both the wing
and plywood plate. Align the plate and clamp in place.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol and
paper towels. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.

Caution: Use scrap plywood under the clamps
to prevent damage to the balsa wing structure.

23

Section 7: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

Step 6

Once the epoxy has fully cured, use a drill and 1/4" drill
bit to drill through the plywood plate. Use the predrilled
holes in the wing as a guide.

Step 7

Mount the wing to the fuselage using the two provided
mounting bolts and washers. Tighten the bolts finger tight
and align the wing to the fuselage by measuring from the
wing tips to the center rear of the fuselage as shown. The
measurements should be equal on both sides. It may be
necessary to enlarge the holes in the mounting plate to
get the proper alignment.

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group

(Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Wing assembly

• Horizontal stabilizer • Vertical fin

• Elevator joiner wire (U-shaped)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Sharp hobby knife • Long ruler

• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towels

• 30-minute epoxy • T-pin

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

Step 1

The slots for the horizontal and vertical stabilizer are
located in the rear of the fuselage. Using a sharp hobby
knife, carefully remove the covering over the slots.

AA'

A = A'

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

24

Step 2

Locate the horizontal stabilizer and elevator assembly and
remove the elevators and hinges. Use a felt-tipped pen or
pencil and ruler to mark the center of the stabilizer at the
trailing edge as shown.

Step 3

Mark the center of the stabilizer saddle at the trailing edge
of the saddle.

Note: The horizontal stabilizer is positioned all
the way forward in the saddle area to allow
room for the elevator joiner wire. The wire will
be inserted through the saddle area before the
horizontal stabilizer is glued in place.

Step 4

Slide the horizontal stabilizer through the saddle opening
and align the marks you made in the two previous steps.
Once you are satisfied with the alignment, carefully place
a T-pin through the stabilizer and the saddle at the trailing
edge. This will keep the horizontal stabilizer in place
during alignment.

Step 5

Mount the wing to the fuselage and measure the distance
from the wing tip to the tip of the horizontal stabilizers
as shown in the illustration below. Carefully adjust the
horizontal stabilizer until the measurement is equal on
both sides making sure to keep the marks on the stabilizer
and saddle aligned.

BB'

B = B'

25

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

Step 6

With the horizontal stabilizer properly aligned, carefully
mark the stabilizer with a felt-tipped pen or pencil where
it meets the fuselage. Mark both the top and bottom of
the horizontal stabilizer.

Step 7

Remove the stabilizer and use a sharp hobby knife to
carefully remove the covering from the center of the
stabilizer, cutting 1/16" inside the lines you marked in the
previous step. Use only enough pressure to cut the
covering and not the wood underneath, as doing so will
severely weaken the structure of the horizontal stabilizer.

Step 8

Re-install the stabilizer into the fuselage. Use the lines
drawn in Step 6 to reposition the stab correctly. Looking
from behind the plane, check to make sure the horizontal
stabilizer is parallel to the wing as shown in the
illustration below. If any adjustments are required, lightly
sand the stabilizer saddle to bring the horizontal stabilizer
into alignment with the wing.

Step 9

Locate the vertical fin and rudder assembly and remove
the rudder and hinges from the fin. Trial fit the fin into
the fuselage as shown, making sure to align the trailing
edge of the rudder with the fuselage. Use a felt-tipped
pen or pencil to mark both the fin and fuselage where
they come together.

AA'

A = A'

26

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

Step 10

Remove the fin and use a sharp hobby knife to
remove the covering where the fin inserts into the
fuselage, cutting 1/16" inside the lines you drew in the
previous step. Use only enough pressure to cut the
covering, not the wood underneath.

Step 11

Re-install the fin into the fuselage to check the fit.

Note: Read through the remaining steps of
this section before proceeding to Step 12 and
have all your supplies and parts laid out ready
to install.

Step 12

Remove the horizontal stabilizer and vertical fin from the
fuselage. Mix 1/2 ounce of 30-minute epoxy and coat the
horizontal stabilizer saddle and then coat both sides of the
stabilizer center section.

Important: Slide the elevator joiner wire
through the saddle area before inserting the
stabilizer.

Step 13

Insert the stabilizer into the fuselage and align with the
wing. Wipe of the excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol
and paper towels.

Hint: Coat the center of the elevator joiner wire
with petroleum jelly to keep the epoxy from
setting up on the wire.

Step 14

Use the remaining epoxy coat the bottom of the vertical
fin and the slot in the fuselage for the fin. Try to keep
the epoxy away from the joiner wire. Insert the fin into
the fuselage and make sure it is fully seated in the
slot. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol
and paper towels.

27

Section 8: Installing the Tail Group (Horizontal and Vertical Fin)

Step 15

Double-check the alignment of the horizontal stabilizer
and vertical fin and use masking tape to secure it in
place. Use rubbing alcohol and paper towels to clean
the epoxy off of the elevator joiner wire. Allow the epoxy
to fully cure.

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Hinges (6)

• Left and right elevator halves

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Thin CA • CA remover/debonder

• 6-minute epoxy • Drill

• Drill Bit: 3/32" • T-pins

• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towels
Note: The elevator halves are joined together

with the U-shaped wire supplied with the kit.
This wire will be used to drive both elevator
halves and is epoxied into place.

Caution: The included hinges are made of a
special material that allows the thin CA to
“wick” (penetrate) and distribute throughout
the hinge, securely bonding them to the wood
structure. It is imperative that you properly
secure the hinges in place using high-quality
thin CA glue.

Step 1

Locate the left and right elevator halves and temporarily
install the elevators to the horizontal stabilizer. Center the
elevator joiner wire in the tail of the fuselage and use a
felt tipped pen or pencil to mark the outline of the wire
onto the elevators.

Step 15 photo

28

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators

Step 2

Remove the elevators. Using a 3/32" drill bit, carefully
drill the holes into the elevators using the marks you
made in the previous step as a guide. Drill directly down
the center of the elevator and only as far as needed.

Hint: Use a piece of masking tape on the drill
bit as a depth gauge.

Step 3

Temporarily install the elevators back onto the horizontal
stabilizer and check for fit. The elevator halves should
be equal to each other and move freely up and down.
If the elevators are not equal, you can remove them
and carefully bend the joiner wire until they come
into alignment. Once satisfied with the fit, remove
the elevator halves.

Step 4

Place a T-pin in the center of each hinge and slide the
hinges into the horizontal stabilizer until the T-pin is snug
against the trailing edge as shown.

Note: In the following steps, you will
permanently install the elevators. Do not glue
the hinges in place until the joiner wire epoxy
has cured.

Step 5

Mix at least 1/4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy. Using
a toothpick as an applicator, coat the inside of
the joiner wire holes and the wire where it inserts
into the elevators.

29

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators

Step 6

Install each elevator onto the hinges and the joiner wire.
Remove the T-pins and push the elevators close to the
stabilizer until there is only a slight gap (1/32" or less) at
the hinge line. Wipe away any excess epoxy with rubbing
alcohol and paper towels. Use masking tape to hold the
elevators in place and allow the epoxy to cure completely
before moving to the next step.

Step 7

Once the epoxy has cured, deflect the elevators
down and use a high-quality thin CA to completely
saturate each hinge.

Step 8

Turn the fuselage over and repeat the hinge gluing
process by deflecting the elevators in the opposite
direction and completely saturate each hinge with
thin CA. Wipe away any excess CA using CA
remover/debonder and a paper towel. Allow the
CA to completely dry.

30

Section 9: Hinging the Elevators

Step 9

Once the CA has dried, check the hinges for security by
trying to pull the elevators from the stabilizer. Use only
slight pressure and be sure not to crush the wood
structure of the stabilizer or elevator.

Section 10: Installing the Rudder and Tail

Wheel Assembly

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Rudder

• Hinges • Tail wheel assembly

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Thin CA • CA remover/debonder

• 6-minute epoxy • Sharp hobby knife

• Drill • Drill Bit: 3/32", 1/16"

• Pliers • Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

Step 1

Locate the tail wheel assembly and use pliers to make
a 90-degree bend 1" up from the bushing as shown.
Measure over 1" from the bend and trim off the
excess wire. This portion of the wire will be inserted
into the rudder.

Step 9 photo

31

Section 10: Installing the Rudder and Tail Wheel Assembly

Step 2

Temporarily install the rudder using the hinges
provided; do not glue the hinges at this time. Hold
the tail wheel assembly up to the fuselage as shown
and mark the location where the wire will insert into the
rudder. Remove the rudder.

Step 3

Using a 3/32" drill bit, drill the rudder following the
marks you made in the previous step. Make sure to
drill straight into the rudder.

Hint: Use a piece of masking tape on the drill
bit as a depth gauge to avoid drilling too deep.

Step 4

Use a sharp hobby knife to make a notch in the bottom
portion of the rudder to accept the tail wheel wire and
allow the rudder to seat properly against the vertical fin.

Step 5

Mix at least 1⁄4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and use a
toothpick to coat the inside of the hole you drilled in the
rudder. Also coat the wire that inserts into the rudder. Use
caution not to get epoxy into the tail wheel assembly
bushing. Secure the wire to the rudder with masking tape
and allow the epoxy to cure.

32

Section 10: Installing the Rudder and Tail Wheel Assembly

Step 6

Install the rudder hinges placing a T-pin through
the center of each hinge to keep it centered while
installing the rudder.

Step 7

Align the tail wheel assembly bracket with the center of
the fuselage and drill the screw mounting holes using a
1/16" drill bit. Using the two provided screws, mount the
bracket to the fuselage as shown.

Step 8

Deflect the rudder fully in one direction and saturate each
hinge with thin CA. Deflect the rudder in the opposite
direction and saturate each hinge again with thin CA.
Allow the CA to dry. Use CA remover/debonder to wipe
off any excess CA on the rudder hinge line.

Step 9

Once the CA has completely dried, check the rudder
for security by trying to pull the rudder from the
fuselage. Use only enough pressure to test for security
and be careful not to damage the wood structure
of the rudder or fin.

33

Section 11: Installing the Elevator and

Rudder Control Horns

Parts Needed

• Fuselage • Wing

• Control horn w/back plate (2)

• Control horn screws (6)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Drill • Drill Bit: 1/16"

• Ruler • Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Phillips screwdriver (medium)
Important: When installing the control horns,

the holes in the control horns where the
pushrod attaches must be directly in line with
the control surface hinge line.

Step 1

To locate the elevator control horn position, measure over
1" from the fuselage on the bottom left side of the
horizontal stabilizer along the elevator hinge line.
Mark the elevator as shown with a felt-tipped pen or
pencil. This mark will be the center of the elevator
control horn location.

Step 2

Place the center of the control horn on the elevator at
the mark made in the previous step. Mark the position
of the control horn mounting holes with a felt-tipped
pen or pencil.

Step 3

Remove the control horn and drill 1/16" holes through
the elevator as marked. Make sure to drill these holes
parallel to each other to allow the back plate of the
horn to fit properly.

34

Section 11: Installing the Elevator and Rudder Control Horns

Step 4

Using the provided screws and back plate, attach
the elevator control horn and fasten in place with
a Phillips screwdriver.

Step 5

Measure 1 3⁄8" up from the bottom of the rudder on the
right side of the rudder. Mark the location with a felt­tipped pen or pencil. This mark will serve as the center
for the rudder control horn.

Step 6

Center the control horn over the mark you’ve just made.
Make sure the horn is positioned over the hinge line,
just like you did for the elevator. Using a felt-tipped
pen or pencil, mark the mounting screw hole locations
on the rudder.

Step 7

Drill the mounting holes with a 1/16" drill bit and
install the rudder control horn, using the screws and
back plate provided.

35

Section 12: Assembling the Fuel Tank

Parts Needed

• Clunk (fuel pickup) • Metal caps (2)

• Fuel pickup tubing • Fuel tank

• Rubber stopper • 3mm screw

• Metal tubes (1 short, 2 long)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Hobby knife • Screwdriver (medium)
Note: The stopper provided with the Texan

has three holes that are not bored completely
through the stopper. The holes are for the
pickup, fill and vent lines. For these
instructions you will only be using two holes:
one for the fuel pickup and one for the fuel
vent. Only open the third hole if you are going
to use a separate fill line.

Step 1

Locate the tank parts.

Step 2

Locate the rubber stopper. Insert the shorter metal fuel
tube into one of the holes in the stopper so that an
equal amount of tube extends from each side of the
stopper. This tube will be the fuel tank pickup that
provides fuel to the engine.

Step 3

Slide the smaller of the two caps over the tube on the
smaller end of the rubber stopper. The small end will
be inserted into the fuel tank. The larger cap is placed
on the other side of the rubber stopper that makes the
cap. Loosely install the 3mm screw through the stopper.

Step 4

Locate one of the longer metal fuel tubes and bend
it carefully using your fingers. This will be the fuel
tank vent tube.

36

Section 12: Assembling the Fuel Tank

Step 5

Slide the vent tube into one of the two remaining holes in
the stopper from the tank (small cap) side.

Step 6

Locate the short piece of silicone fuel tubing and the fuel
tank clunk. Install the clunk onto one end of the silicone
tubing and the other end onto the fuel tank pickup tube
(straight tube) in the stopper.

Step 7

Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank. Note
the position of the vent tube; it must be at the top
portion of the fuel tank to function properly. Also, it may
be necessary to shorten the length of the fuel pickup
tubing to make sure the clunk does not rub against the
back of the fuel tank. You should be able to turn the tank
upside down, which allows the clunk to freely drop to
the top of the tank.

Step 8

Tighten the 3mm screw carefully—do not over tighten.
This allows the rubber stopper to form a seal by being
slightly compressed, thus sealing the fuel tank opening.

Important: Be sure to differentiate between
the vent and the fuel pick-up tube. Once the
tank is mounted inside the fuselage, it will be
difficult to tell the tubes apart.

Note: The fuel tank will be installed in the next
section.

Step 7 photo

37

Section 13: Mounting the Engine

Parts Needed

• Engine • Fuselage assembly

• Engine mount • Assembled fuel tank

• Foam (not included)

• Engine mounting hardware:

8-32 x 1

1

⁄4" bolt (8), 8-32 blind nut (4)

8-32 lock nut (4), #8 washer (8)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Hex wrench: 9/64" • Hobby knife

• Drill • Drill Bit: 1/8"

• Measuring device • Adjustable wrench

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil
Note: The Texan comes with oval-shaped

holes cut out in the firewall to accept the 8-32
blind nuts for mounting the engine mount
rails. This allows for different sized engines
to be used.

For 2-stroke engines, you will need to install
a Pitts-style muffler to allow clearance to the
firewall. For this model, we used a Bisson Pitts
muffler (BIS04061) with the Evolution .61
2-stroke (EVOE0610) engine.

Step 1

Locate the engine mounting rails and associated
hardware.

Step 2

Temporarily install the engine to the rails using four
8-32 bolts, washers and lock nuts.

Step 3

Measure the distance between the mounting holes
(measure the holes on center) and transfer that
measurement to the firewall. This will be the location for
the 8-32 blind nuts. Remove the engine from the rails.

38

Section 13: Mounting the Engine

Step 4

Install the 8-32 blind nuts from inside the fuselage. Seat
the blind nuts by tightening the bolts. Remove the bolts
and carefully glue the blind nuts in place with thin CA. Be
sure not to get any CA on the threads of the blind nuts.

Step 5

Install the engine mount rails using threadlock and a
9/64" hex wrench. Next, loosely mount the engine to the
rails and measure 5

1

⁄2" from the firewall to the prop drive
washer of the engine. Tighten the mounting hardware to
secure the engine in place.

Step 6

Determine the proper location for the throttle pushrod.
Mark the location with a felt-tipped pen or pencil and drill
the firewall for the pushrod tube using a drill and 5/32"
drill bit. Remove the engine if necessary.

Step 7

Test fit the throttle pushrod tube through the firewall
and into the fuselage. Once satisfied with the fit, mix 1/4
1/4 ounce of 6-minute epoxy and glue the pushrod into
the firewall. Allow the epoxy to cure.

39

Section 13: Mounting the Engine

Step 8

Install the throttle control wire into the tube and connect
the throttle control wire to the throttle. You may need to
remove the throttle control horn or the carburetor to
connect the Z-bend to the throttle arm.

Step 9

Connect two pieces of fuel tubing 12" in length to the fuel
tanks pickup and vent tubes. Install the fuel tank into the
front of the fuselage. The stopper and fuel tubes should
come through the round hole cut in the firewall. Use foam
to hold the tank in place and protect against vibration.

Note: Make the proper fuel line
connections following the engine
manufacturers instructions.

40

Section 14: Installing the Radio

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Plywood servo tray

• Foam • Servos (3) (not included)

• Receiver • Receiver battery

• Servo Lead Extensions 12" (3) (JRPA098)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Hobby knife • Thin CA

• Drill • Drill Bit: 1/16"

Step 1

Using thick CA, glue in the plywood servo tray,
oriented as shown. Note the former is notched to
accept the servo tray.

Step 2

Install the recommended servo hardware (grommets and
eyelets) supplied with your radio system onto three
servos (elevator, rudder, throttle). Temporarily install the
three servos into the openings and mark the location of
the servo mounting screws.

Step 3

Remove the servos and drill the holes for the servo
mounting screws using a 1/16" drill bit.

Hint: Place a drop of thin CA onto each
screw hole to harden the wood around the
hole. Allow the CA to completely dry before
installing the servos.

Step 4

Install the servos as shown. The output shaft of the
throttle servo (center servo) is towards the front and the
elevator and rudder output shafts are to the rear. Secure
the servos using the screws provided with the servos.

41

Section 14: Installing the Radio

Step 5

Mount the radio switch into the side of the fuselage. Use
caution not to cut through the balsa stringers that run
the length of the fuselage. Glue small scraps of plywood
to the balsa sheeting to give the mounting screws
something to bite into.

Step 6

Connect the 12" servo extensions (ailerons and retract
servos), servo leads and switch harness to the proper
channels in your receiver.

Step 7

Wrap the receiver in protective foam to prevent damage
that may be caused from engine vibration. Secure the
receiver to the servo tray as shown.

Step 8

Wrap the receiver battery in protective foam as you did
with the receiver and temporarily mount it in the fuselage.
You may need to move the battery forward or aft to
balance the model in Section 19.

42

Section 14: Installing the Radio

Step 9

Route the antenna out through the bottom of the
fuselage and secure it to the tail wheel with rubber
bands as shown.

Section 15: Installing the Rudder and

Elevator Linkage

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Wood dowels (2)

• EZ connector (1) • Nylon clevis w/keeper (2)

• Wire keeper (2) • Heat shrink tubing (4)

• Control wires (2 long-threaded on one end,
2 short-no threads)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Hobby knife • Pliers

• Heat gun • 6-minute epoxy

• Masking tape • Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

Step 1

Mount the EZ connector to the servo arm supplied with
your radio system as shown.

43

Section 15: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Linkage

Step 2

With the radio system turned on and the throttle stick
centered, slide the EZ connector through the wire and
mount the arm to the servo. With the throttle stick
centered move the throttle arm on your engine to the
center of its throw (1/2 throttle) and tighten the setscrew
on the EZ connector.

Step 3

Using a sharp hobby knife, locate and remove the
covering over the slots for the rudder (right side)
and elevator (left side).

Step 4

To assemble the elevator pushrod, locate one of the wood
dowels. Measure 3” from one end and drill a 5/64" hole.

Step 3 photo

Step 3 photo

44

Section 15: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Linkage

Step 5

Locate a long control wire threaded on one end. Measure
1⁄4" from the non-threaded end and make an L-bend. The
L-bend will insert into the dowel. Notch the dowel to
allow the wire to seat into the wood as shown.

Step 6

For the other end of the pushrod, measure 3” from the
end of the dowel. In this case, drill the 5⁄64" hole
90-degrees to the previous hole and use the shorter
non-threaded wire.

Step 7

Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and glue the
wires to the dowel. Use masking tape to hold the wire
while the epoxy cures.

Step 8

Once the epoxy has set, remove the masking tape and
slide the heat shrink tubing (provided) and use a heat gun
to shrink the tubing in place.

Step 9

For the rudder pushrod, repeat Steps 4 through 8 with the
only difference being the measurement for the threaded
wire. Measure 2" from the end of the dowel for the
threaded wire; the non-threaded wire is 3" from the end
the same as the elevator.

Note: The pushrods cross each other in the
fuselage. The elevator servo is on the right
side of the fuselage and the rudder pushrod
is on the left.

45

Section 15: Installing the Rudder and Elevator Linkage

Step 10

Install the elevator control rod through the slot in the rear
of the fuselage. Thread a nylon clevis onto the wire a
minimum of 10 turns and connect the clevis to the control
horn. Install a clevis keeper (1⁄4" piece of fuel tubing) to
prevent the clevis from opening.

Step 11

With the elevator at neutral and the servo centered, mark
the wire where it crosses the servo arm. Make an L-bend
and clip of the excess wire leaving 5/16" after the bend.
Secure the wire to the servo arm with an L-bend keeper.

Step 12

Repeat Steps 10 and 11 for the rudder pushrod.

46

Section 16: Attaching the Cowl

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Cowl

• Mounting screws (4)

• Wood mounting blocks (4)

Tools and Supplies Needed

• Medium sandpaper • Hobby knife

• Masking tape • 12-minute epoxy

• Rubbing alcohol • Paper towels

• Felt-tipped pen or pencil

• Moto-tool with cut-off wheel and sanding drum

Step 1

Locate the four wood cowl mounting blocks.

Step 2

Mark the location for the mounting blocks. The upper
mounting blocks are located where the blue and black
covering meet. The lower blocks are mounted in line with
the wing saddle. Make adjustments to these locations to
prevent interference with the engine and muffler you use.

Step 3

The blocks will be positioned flush with the fuselage
sides. Sand a radius on the blocks to match the shape
of the fuselage. Sand the firewall where the blocks attach
to the fuselage.

47

Section 16: Attaching the Cowl

Step 4

Mix 1⁄4 ounce of 12-minute epoxy and glue the blocks in
place. Use masking tape and T-pins to secure the blocks
as the epoxy cures.

Step 5

If you are using the dummy radial engine supplied with
the kit, glue it in at this time using 6-minute epoxy. Make
all the necessary cut outs to allow the drive washer to
come through the center of the dummy engine. Also open
up the area between the cylinders.

Step 6

Center the cowl on the fuselage and using a 1/16" drill
bit, carefully drill the four cowl mounting screw locations.
Drill through the cowl and into the mounting blocks.

Step 7

Mount the cowl using the #2 wood screws provided. Once
mounted, make the appropriate cutouts in the cowl for the
muffler exhaust and engine cooling.

48

Section 17: Attaching the Canopy

Parts Needed

• Fuselage • Painted canopy

• Plastic cockpit detail • Plastic air scoop

• Decal sheet • #2 wood screws (4)

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Canopy scissors • 6-minute epoxy

• Canopy glue • Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels
Note: The Texan canopy from Hangar 9

®

comes painted.

Step 1

Locate the cockpit detail included with the Texan. We
have included the rear seat instrument panel pod and
rear seat back.

Step 2

Cut out the rear cockpit instrument decal and install it on
the rear pod as shown.

Step 3

Cut out the front cockpit instrument decal and install it on
the front cockpit dash as shown. 1/7

Step 4

Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and glue the
pod and seat back to the cockpit as shown. You may
wish to install a pilot figure at this time also.

Hangar 9's

®

1/7 -scale U.S. WWII Pilot figure

(HAN8311) is recommended.

49

Section 17: Attaching the Canopy

Step 5

Carefully cut out the canopy following the outline. Glue
the canopy to the fuselage using RC560 canopy glue.
Tape the canopy in place using masking tape and allow
the glue to dry over night. For added security, use four
#2 wood screws placed on the corners of the canopy.

Step 6

Mount the plastic air scoop detail to the left side of the
fuselage. Locate the scoop just behind the cowl and
centered on the fuselage. Use a flexible adhesive like
Shoe-Goo or silicone sealant.

Section 18: Application of Decals

Parts Needed

• Fuselage assembly • Decal sheet

Tools and Adhesives Needed

• Scissors • Hobby knife

• Spray bottle w/water • Paper towels

Step 1

Use the photos to locate the position of the decals on the
Texan. Use a water spray bottle with 2–3 drops of dish
soap added to the water and spray both the fuselage and
sticky side of the decal. This will allow you to reposition
the decal if necessary.

50

Section 18: Application of Decals

Step 2

Once satisfied with the position, use a paper towel to
squeegee out the water and any air bubbles. Allow the
decal to dry over night.

Note: There may be some clouding under the
decal, but this will go away as the decal dries.

Step 2 photo

Step 2 photo

Step 2 photo

51

Preflight at the Field

Control Throws and Center of Gravity

The following control throws offer a good place to start
with your first flights. We recommend only one rate
setting for the Texan. As you become more familiar with
the handling of your model, you may wish to add a
second rate setting.

Recommended Control Throws

Aileron 5/16" up, 5/16" down
Elevator 7/8" up, 7/8" down
Rudder 1" right and left

Recommended CG Location

An important part of preparing the aircraft for flight is
properly balancing the model. This is especially important
when various engines are mounted.

Caution: Do not inadvertently skip this step!

The recommended Center of Gravity (C.G.) location for
the AT-6 Texan 60 is 4

3

⁄

4" behind the leading edge of the

wing. If necessary, move the battery pack or add weight to
either the nose or the tail until the correct balance is
achieved. Stick-on weights are available at your local
hobby shop and work well for this purpose.

Range Test Your Radio

Step 1

Before each flying session, range-check your radio. This
is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the
antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane.
With your airplane on the ground, you should be able to
walk 30 paces away from your airplane and still have
complete control of all functions. If not, don’t attempt to
fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by the
manufacturer.

Adjusting your Engine

Step 1

Completely read the instructions included with your
engine and follow the recommended break-in procedure.

Step 2

At the field, adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at
full throttle and adjust the idle and low-speed needle so
that a consistent idle is achieved.

Step 3

Before you fly, be sure that your engine idles reliably,
transitions, and runs at all throttle settings. Only when
this is achieved should any plane be considered ready
for flight.

Step 2

Double-check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throttle,
rudder) move in the correct direction.

Step 3

Before you fly, be sure that your batteries are fully charged
per the instructions included with your radio.

52

2003 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 2003
Model Flying MUST be in accordance with this
Code in order for AMA Liability Protection to
apply.

GENERAL

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400
feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an
observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid
having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for
the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and
deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or
dangerous manner.

4) The maximum takeoff weight of a model is 55 pounds,
except models flown under Experimental Aircraft rules.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my
name and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
(This does not apply to models while being flown
indoors.)

6) I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers
or with gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air
enter their internal combustion engine(s); nor will I
operate models with extremely hazardous fuels such as
those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind)
including, but not limited to, rockets, explosive bombs
dropped from models, smoke bombs, all explosive gases
(such as hydrogen filled balloons), ground mounted
devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions
permitted are rockets flown in accordance with the
National Model Rocketry Safety Code or those
permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those items
authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST
Advisory Committee (document available from AMA HQ).
In any case, models using rocket motors as a primary
means of propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of

3.3 pounds and a G series motor. (A model aircraft is
defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able to
carry a human being.)

8) I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor
during, participation in any model operations.

9) Children under 6 years old are only allowed on the
flight line as a pilot or while under flight instruction.

RADIO CONTROL

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment
ground range check before the first flight of a new or
repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted
by an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with
flying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight
line. Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control
frequencies currently allowed by the Federal
Communications Commission. (Only properly licensed
Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur
Band frequencies.)

53

5) Flying sites separated by three miles or more are
considered safe from site-to site interference, even when
both sites use the same frequencies. Any circumstances
under three miles separation require a frequency
management arrangement which may be either an
allocation of specific frequencies for each site or testing
to determine that freedom from interference exists.
Allocation plans or interference test reports shall be
signed by the parties involved and provided to AMA
Headquarters. Documents of agreement and reports may
exist between (1) two or more AMA Chartered Clubs, (2)
AMA clubs and individual AMA members not associated
with AMA Clubs, or (3) two or more individual AMA
members.

6) For Combat, distance between combat engagement line
and spectator line will be 500 feet per cubic inch of
engine displacement. (Example: .40 engine = 200 feet.);
electric motors will be based on equivalent combustion
engine size. Additional safety requirements will be per the
RC Combat section of the current Competition
Regulations.

7) At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single
straight line must be established, one side of which is for
flying, with the other side for spectators.

8) With the exception of events flown under AMA
Competition rules, after launch, except for pilots or
helpers being used, no powered model may be flown
closer than 25 feet to any person.

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight.

Organized RC Racing Event

10) An RC racing event, whether or not an AMA Rule
Book event, is one in which model aircraft compete in
flight over a prescribed course with the objective of
finishing the course faster to determine the winner.

A. In every organized racing event in which contestants,
callers and officials are on the course:

1. All officials, callers and contestants must properly wear
helmets, which are OSHA, DOT, ANSI, SNELL or NOCSAE
approved or comparable standard while on the
racecourse.

2. All officials will be off the course except for the starter
and their assistant.

3.”On the course” is defined to mean any area beyond the
pilot/staging area where actual flying takes place.

B. I will not fly my model aircraft in any organized racing
event which does not comply with paragraph A above or
which allows models over 20 pounds unless that
competition event is AMA sanctioned.

C. Distance from the pylon to the nearest spectator (line)
will be in accordance with the current Competition
Regulations under the RC Pylon Racing section for the
specific event pending two or three pylon course layout.

11) RC Night flying is limited to low performance models
(less than 100 mph). The models must be equipped with
a lighting system that clearly defines the aircraft’s attitude
at all times.

2003 Official AMA

National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Continued

54

Notes

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55

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