Hangar 9 Advance 40 Instruction Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL V1.1

• Quick assembly

• Modular construction allows for easily replaced parts if crash damaged

• Pre-cover ed and trimmed in gen uine UltraCote

®

• All balsa plywood craftsmanship constructed

Specifications

Wingspan: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60′′ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1524mm

Fuselage Length:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50′′ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1270mm

Wing Area:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664sq. in. . . . . . . . . . . .4284 sq cm

Flying Weight (Approx.):

. . . . . . . . . 5

1

/2–61/4lbs. . .2495–2835 grams

Recommended Engines:

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..40–.48 2-stroke

WE GET PEOPLE FLYING

TM

TM

2

Table of Contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Checking Hinges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Using Thin CA to Glue Hinges. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Additional Parts Needed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Radio System Set-Up. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Advance 40 Parts Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Airplane Orientation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Stage 1 - Assembling the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Stage 2 - Installing the Radio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Stage 3 - Installing the Linkages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Stage 4 - Installing the Tail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Stage 5 - Installing the Landing Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Stage 6 - Installing the Engine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Stage 7 - Installing the Canopy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Installing the Propeller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Installing the Antenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Installing the Wing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Balancing the Advance 40 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Pre-Flight Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Flight Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Pre-Flight at the Field . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

AMA Safety Code. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Glossary. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Introduction

Congratulations on your purchase of Hangar 9’s Advance 40, the second in Hangar 9’s VRTF series of airplanes. VRTF, Virtually Ready
to Fly, is a concept Hangar 9 pioneered. Unlike standard ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) airplanes that typically take up to 20 hours to
build, the Advance 40 can be assembled in just five hours or less. Furthermore, the Advance 40 requires only one tool, a Phillips
screwdriver, and some epoxy for the complete assembly process. The epoxy is used to join the main wing panels.

For newer flyers, the Advance 40 is the perfect follow-up to the Easy 2. More experienced flyers will find the Advance 40 to be a quick
way to get in the air fast with a high-quality, all-wood UltraCote-covered airplane that even the most discriminating pilot would be
proud to show off.

If you have any questions concerning the construction of the Advance 40, please feel free to call our service technicians at:
Horizon Hobby Distributors

4105 Fieldstone Road
Champaign, IL 61822
[phone]
www.horizonhobby.com

Warning

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in open areas, preferably
AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, following all instructions included with your radio and engine.

3

Checking Hinges

Important: Check each control surface (aileron, elevator, and
rudder) to make absolutely certain that the hinges holding the
control surfaces are glued sufficiently.

To check that hinges are secure, pull on the control surface
using just a little bit of pressure. If you find a hinge that’s loose,
saturate it using thin CA (not included).

Using Thin CA to Glue Hinges

If you don’t have thin CA, we recommend Pacer (PAAPTO8) or
NHP (NHP311) thin CA. CA is a very useful glue commonly used
in the hobby—it even comes in handy around the house!

4

Additional Parts Needed to Assemble the Advance 40:

• Phillips screwdriver

• .40–.48 2-cycle engine with muffler

• .50–.56 4-cycle engine with muffler (modification to throttle pushrod and engine mount may be necessary if used)

• 4-channel or greater radio system with four standard servos (JR 400EX with four 507 servos recommended)

• Aileron extension (Part JRPA112)

Helpful Additional Items:

• Masking tape

• Rubbing alcohol

• Epoxy mixing sticks

• Paper towels

• Pen or pencil

• Ruler

• Wax paper

Optional Items:

• Instrument Panel (HAN178)

• Pilot (HAN8313)

Radio System Set-Up

It’s a good idea to begin with charging the radio system first, so that later, in Stage 3, you’re able to center the servos. Locate your
charger and plug your battery pack and transmitter into your charger. Plug the charger into an outlet to begin charging.

Advance 40 Parts Layout

5

A. Fuselage
B. Left wing
C. Right wing
D. Screws to mount canopy
E. Vertical stabilizer with rudder
F. Main wheels
G. Spinner
H. Nosewheel
I. Throttle and steering pushrods
J. Horizontal stabilizer and elevator
K. Antenna tube
L. Wing trim tape

M. Rubber bands
N. Wing brace
O. Shock-Loc™ tray
P. Main landing gear
Q. Canopy
R. Trim covering
S. Epoxy
T. Screws
U. Sections of fuel tubing to put over clevises
V. Aileron linkages
W. Hardware package
X. Threadlock

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

T

U

V

W

X

S

Airplane Orientation

The left and right of the airplane refers to the left and right side as if you were stationed in the cockpit.

6

Step 1. From your radio system box, remove one servo and the
servo mounting hardware—four rubber grommets, four brass
eyelets and four servo screws. Prepare the servo by installing the
four rubber grommets and eyelets in one servo as shown in the
photo below. The grommets insert onto the servo tabs and then
the eyelets are inserted from the bottom through the grommets.

The grommet installation is fairly simple. However, if you need
any additional help for this installation, please refer to your radio
system instruction manual.

Step 2. Prior to assembling the wing, deflect the aileron control
surfaces by hand to loosen the hinges so the controls operate
smoothly.

• Wing halves (left and right)

• Wing joiner (wing brace)

• Wing joint tape

• One servo with mounting hardware (4 rubber grommets,
4 eyelets and 4 long servo screws—included with the
radio system)

• Aileron linkages with clevis attached (2)—these are the
shortest two linkages in the kit

• Aileron connectors (2) Note: On some Advance 40 kits,
these may already be attached to the aileron torque rods.

• Fuel tubing (2)

• 15-minute epoxy (included in kit)

• Rubbing alcohol

• Paper towels

• Epoxy mixing sticks (optional)

• Ruler

• Pencil

• Masking tape

• Wax paper (optional)

• Fuel tubing pieces (5mm long) (2)

Parts and Supplies Needed

Stage 1—Assembling the Wing

Fuel tubing

Step 3. Note that there is a rectangular shaped cutout on the top
of the left wing panel. Install the servo prepared in Step One into
the cutout in the wing, as shown below, with the servo arm
nearest the front (leading edge) of the wing.

Note: The wire (servo lead) should exit on the side of the

servo as shown.

Installing the Servo Mounting Screws

To fasten the servo in place, use the four self-tapping servo
screws included with your radio and a Phillips screwdriver.
Tighten just until they compress the rubber grommets slightly.

When installing your servo mounting screws, be sure not to
press down hard on the screws, thus pushing the hardwood
backing plate away from the wing's surface. These are self­tapping screws, and they will easily start into the pre-drilled pilot
holes for the aileron servo screws.

Note: To prevent the epoxy from being smeared on the servo

lead, you can use some masking tape to hold it in
place on top of the wing.

Step 4. Locate the plywood dihedral brace (also called the wing
joiner). Using ruler and a pencil, mark the exact center of the
brace as shown.

7

Step 5. IT’S IMPORTANT TO DO THIS STEP BEFORE
EPOXYING THE WING HALVES.

Trial Fitting the Wing Halves Together

Before mixing the epoxy, it’s important that you trial fit the
dihedral brace and the two wing halves together. You will find
that the dihedral brace will insert past the halfway mark you
made on the brace.

Hold the dihedral brace in one wing half while sliding the other
wing half onto the brace.

Making a Gauge for the Correct
Dihedral Angle

It will be easier to achieve the correct dihedral angle of the wing
if you make a gauge to place under one end of the wing. The
dihedral should be set at 2

1

/

8

” under one wing tip; try to get as
close to this measurement as possible. The packing cardboard
that held the two wing halves together during shipping will work
well for this.

Measure the height of the packing cardboard with a ruler. If the
cardboard is larger than 2

1

/

8

”, use a pair of scissors to trim off

the excess cardboard. If it’s shorter than 2

1

/

8

”, you can put sheets

of paper under the cardboard to achieve the 2

1

/

8

” height for the

dihedral.

CONTINUED

Stage 1—Assembling the Wing

8

Setting the Cardboard Gauge Under
One Wing Tip

With the wing temporarily joined and not glued, lay the wing on a
flat surface with the dihedral gauge placed under one wing tip. Make
sure the gauge is at the very end of the wing tip and that the other
wing half is flat on the table. This is exactly how you want your wing
to be positioned after you apply the epoxy to the wing joint.

Step 6. Mix up approximately 3/4 of the tube of the 15-minute
epoxy. Using a scrap piece of wood or an epoxy mixing stick,
smear the epoxy into the wing joiner cavity of both wing halves.
Be sure to use plenty of epoxy.

Coat one half of the wing joiner with epoxy up to the center line. Note
the orientation of the “V” shape of the wing joiner. Install the epoxy­coated side of the wing joiner into a wing half up to the line, making
sure the “V” of the wing joiner is positioned correctly as shown.

Apply epoxy to the exposed area (other end) of the wing joiner.
Uniformly coat both wing roots with the epoxy. If you need to,
mix up more of the epoxy and apply it to the wing roots.

CONTINUED

Stage 1—Assembling the Wing

9

Step 7. After the epoxy has sufficiently cured (about 30 minutes),
remove the masking tape from the wing. Now carefully apply the
white and red center wing joint tape to the center joint of the wing.
Carefully remove the protective backing from the tape and align
the red and white of the tape with the red and white trim line of the
covering on the bottom of the wing. Carefully wrap the tape
completely around the wing on the center joint.

Note: If the aileron connections are already installed, skip to

Step 9.

Step 8. Locate the aileron connectors and screw them onto the
threaded rods (called aileron torque rods), which are protruding
from the wing. Screw the connector until the rod is flush with the
top of the aileron connector.

Carefully slide the wing halves together. Firmly press the two
halves together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. Use
rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean off the excess epoxy.

Important: Be sure the wings are pressed firmly together at the
center section. Be sure that the leading and trailing edges line up
properly. Use masking tape as necessary to hold the wing halves in
position. Be sure the front alignment tabs are joined firmly together.

Place a 12′′× 12′′ sheet of wax paper (optional) on the edge of a
flat table. Place the center section of the wing on the wax paper.
Prop up one wing tip 2

1

/

8

′′off the table as shown, using the

gauge you made in Step 5.

Wipe of the excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol and paper
towels. Allow the wing to sit undisturbed overnight so the epoxy
cures completely. The use of the wax paper will prevent the wing
from adhering to the table.

CONTINUED

Stage 1—Assembling the Wing

2-1/8″

10

Step 9. Install the Z-bend of one of the aileron linkages into the
outermost hole in the aileron servo arm as shown.

Note: It may fit tightly and therefore be necessary to work the

Z-bend back and forth until it inserts freely.

Now install the other aileron linkage on the opposite side using
the same procedure as above. Once installed, move the linkages
back and forth a few times until they move freely.

When both aileron linkages are attached, center the servo so the
servo arm is parallel to the wing’s leading edge and trailing edge.

Step 10. We will now be fitting the clevis into the aileron
connectors on the toque rods. At this point, it may be necessary
to adjust the length of the aileron linkage so the ailerons are

aligned with the trailing edge of the wing surface. To adjust the
length of the aileron linkage, simply turn the black clevis in or
out until, when connected, the aileron is level with the wing. It
may be necessary to adjust both linkages.

If the aileron is lower than the trailing edge, the linkage needs to
be shortened and vice versa.

Note: Place a piece of the provided fuel tubing over the clevis of
each linkage to prevent the clevis from opening.

Congratulations—you have just

completed the wing!

CONTINUED

Stage 1—Assembling the Wing

11

Step 1. Prepare the remaining three servos by installing the
rubber grommets, four on each servo.

Note: Do not install the brass eyelets. The Shock-Loc radio

tray is designed to capture the servos by the rubber
grommets and the eyelets are not needed.

Stage 2—Installing the Radio

Hint: It’s helpful to mark the servo wires so they can be easily

identified when it’s time to install them in the receiver. A piece of
masking tape near the connector with the appropriate letter
(T=throttle, E=elevator, R=rudder) written on it will save time later
during the radio hook up.

• Fuselage with pushrods and tank pre-installed

• Shock-Loc radio tray with six self-tapping screws

• Three servos with rubber grommets (12).
Note: The eyelets and servo screws included with the

radio will not be used

• Receiver (included with radio system)

• Battery pack (included with radio system)

• Switch harness (included with radio system)

• Aileron extension (additional part required)

• Medium rubber bands (2)

• Double-sided servo tape (2 pieces)

• Masking tape (optional)

• Pen (optional)

• Phillips screwdriver

Parts and Supplies Needed

Step 2. Install the servos in the fuselage as shown. Feed the
servo leads in first toward the front of the airplane, then place the
servo in place.

Note: Servo cutouts on the servo tray are designed to accept

standard size JR servos. With other brands of servos,
it may be necessary to slightly enlarge the servo tray
to fit them through the cutout.

Important: Refer to the photo below for the orientation of

the servos. Note the position of the servo arms.
The linkages are already in the fuselage and will
be hooked up in Stage 3.

Step 3. Peel back one side of a piece of double-sided tape and
attach the tape to the bottom of the receiver. Attach the other
piece of the double-sided tape to the battery pack. Now peel off
the opposite sides of the double-sided tape and position the
battery and receiver on the Shock-Loc radio tray in the position
shown in the photo at right.

Note: The receiver goes face down on the tray. Prior to

installing the receiver, it’s important to make note of
the receiver slots for the rudder, elevator and throttle.
This is very important as, depending on the receiver
used, you may be unable to read the markings on the
receiver.

Note: The receiver servo slots need to be positioned

such that they’re off the end of the tray, as shown.

Now, using the two medium rubber bands, wrap the bands
around the receiver and battery pack to secure them in place.
Each rubber band makes a complete revolution around each
component and attaches to the side notches on the Shock-Loc
radio tray.

Step 4. Insert the three servo connectors in the appropriate slots
in the receiver (rudder, elevator, throttle).

Note: The plugs are polarized and therefore only fit in one

way; do not force them.

Note: If you have a JR radio, the wires have three colors—

brown, red and orange—and the orange wire will face
up (with the fuselage upside down) in this installation.

Plug the aileron extension into the aileron port of the receiver.

Note: The other end with the female connector will accept

the wing servo lead later.

If you have any questions about these hook-ups, consult the
manual included with your radio system.

Step 5. It’s now time to install the Shock-Loc radio tray into the
fuselage. The radio tray will be easier to install if the servo arms
are removed. To do this, simply unscrew the screw holding the
servo arms to the servo and place the arms and screws off to the
side.

With the arms removed, slide the pushrods back and place the
Shock-Loc radio tray into position.

CONTINUED

Stage 2—Installing the Radio

12

Elevator

Rudder

Throttle

13

Note: It’s important that the pushrods go on top of the radio

tray.

Using the six self-tapping screws, fit the radio tray on top of the
servos as shown in the photo below.

The screws should be tightened just enough to slightly compress
the rubber servo grommets.

Note: Do not over-tighten as doing so would eliminate the

shock absorption feature of the grommets.

Step 6. A hole is pre-cut in the left side of the fuselage for the
switch. Unscrew the switch plate from the switch and place it
over this opening in the fuselage side.

Note: In general, most modelers like the “on” position

toward the front, though either direction is fine.

When aligned correctly, poke two holes in the soft balsa fuselage
sides through the switch plate using the switch screws. From
inside the airplane fuselage, put the switch into position and then
screw the switch in place from the outside of the fuselage.

Step 7. There are three wires on the switch harness—one
female and two male. Plug the male battery pack lead into the
female connector on the switch harness. Turn the switch “off”
and take one of the two male connectors from the switch (either
one, we’ll check it below) and plug it into the battery slot in the
receiver.

Take the transmitter off the charger and turn it on. Turn on your
receiver switch. If you chose the correct male lead, when you
move the sticks on the transmitter, you’ll be able to hear the
servos move. If they do not sound, simply disconnect the male
lead that goes to the receiver from the switch and plug in the
other male lead into the receiver. Tuck the remaining male lead
(used to charge the airplane’s battery pack) under the radio tray
for now.

Note: If you have any questions about the hook-up, consult

your radio system manual.

CONTINUED

Stage 2—Installing the Radio

14

Step 1. It is now time to center the trims. Take your transmitter
and move the trim levers to the center position. Then move the
throttle stick to the middle position. Turn on your transmitter and
your receiver. Now turn off the receiver and then turn off the
transmitter. The servos are now electrically centered.

Note: Since the servo arms are removed from the servos, you
will not see any movement with this centering, rather you will
hear a sound as the servos are centered.

Stage 3—Installing the Linkages

• Fuselage from Stage 2

• Two long pushrods (long: throttle; short: steerable
nose wheel)

• Servo arms removed in Stage 2

• Throttle linkage with clevis

• Steering linkage with clevis on one end and a Z-bend on
the other

• Fuel tubing (5mm long) (3)

• Transmitter

Parts Needed

Fuel tubing

Throttle/Rudder
Stick Centered

Throttle
Trim

Elevator Trim
Aileron/Elevator

Stick Centered

Rudder Trim Mode 2 Aileron Trim

15

CONTINUED

Stage 3—Installing the Linkages

Step 2. First we’ll install the elevator linkage. Take one servo

arm and locate the split elevator pushrod which exits the left and
right side of the fuselage. Attach the other end with the black
clevis in the outermost hole in the elevator servo arm.

Note: The servo horn shown below has been trimmed. This

is an optional step as some radio manufacturer’s servo
arms are longer than others, and trimming will keep
them from interfering with each other. This can be
done using a pair of sharp scissors or a hobby knife.

Screw the servo arm back onto the elevator servo (the center
servo), making sure the arm is perpendicular to the fuselage (see
photo).

Step 3. The pushrod that exits the left side of the fuselage
(directly below the elevator pushrod on the left side) is the
rudder pushrod. It attaches to the rudder servo (left-hand side as
you look into the fuselage). Take another servo arm and attach
the black clevis from the rudder pushrod in the outermost hole of
the shorter servo arm. Also note the rudder servo will have two
control rods attached to it—the rudder and the steering control
rod for the nose gear.

Note: The longer servo arms must be trimmed off using a

pair of sharp scissors or a hobby knife.

Step 4. Locate the throttle control rod and the steering control
rod.

With the airplane upside down, look into the engine
compartment. You will see a control rod that has a “Z” bend.
This is the steering control rod and will be attached to the
steering arm of the nose gear in Stage 5, Step 2.

Front of
Airplane

Rudder/Nose Gear

Elevator

Throttle

16

Step 5. Now attach the clevis in the outermost hole on the
rudder servo arm as shown and slip the fuel tubing over the
clevis to prevent the clevis from opening.

Note: The “Z” bend of the steering pushrod will be attached

to the nosewheel control arm in Stage 5.

Step 6. Turn the aircraft right side up and look into the engine
compartment. The throttle pushrod has a black clevis that will
attach to the throttle arm of the engine, and a “Z” bend that will
attach to the throttle servo in the fuselage. See the photo at right.

Install the Z-bend (inside the fuselage) to the outermost hole in
the throttle servo arm. Mount the throttle servo arm so it’s
perpendicular to the fuselage and fasten with the servo screw.
Final adjustment of the throttle servo will be made in Stage 6,
Installing the Engine.

Congratulations! You are over half-way done and you’ve
just completed the most difficult portion of assembling your
Advance 40.

Stage 3—Installing the Linkages

CONTINUED

Rudder/Nose Gear

Elevator

Throttle

17

Note: Prior to assembling the tail, deflect all control surfaces

by hand so the controls will move smoothly.

Step 1. Attach the vertical fin to the horizontal stabilizer, sliding
the threaded rods protruding from the vertical fin through the
holes provided.

Note: The colored trim on the horizontal tail should face up.

Screw on the two wing nuts provided to secure the vertical fin to
the horizontal stabilizer. Tighten until they’re snug.

Stage 4—Installing the Tail

• Fuselage with radio gear installed from Stage 3

• Horizontal stabilizer

• Vertical fin

• 4-40 x 3/8′′machine screws (2)

• Washers (2)

• Wing nuts (2)

• Threadlock (tube)

• Fuel tubing (5mm) (5)

• Phillips screwdriver

Parts and Supplies Needed

Vertical Fin

Horizontal
Stabilizer

Fuel tubing

18

Important Safety Note: The wing nuts must be tightened

to the position shown below on the horizontal tail so
they clear the fuselage when installed.

Step 2. Trial fit the tail assembly into the tail of the fuselage as
shown by sliding forward the tongue of the vertical fin into the
fuselage.

Step 3. Remove the tail assembly. There are two screw holes on
the rear plate. Put a washer on the screw and install the front
screw in the plate, through the hole on the bottom of the
fuselage. Apply a drop of thread lock to the screw. Fit the tail
back into place. Slightly secure the screw to the tail. Hold the
screw in place with the screwdriver to keep the screw from being
pushed back into the fuselage when installing the tail.

Hint: Sit the fuselage on a table with the rear extending off the
end. This way you can help guide the screws into the fuselage
through the opening of the tail saddle.

CONTINUED

Stage 4—Installing the Tail

Now take the second screw, apply a drop of thread lock and
insert it from the bottom, through the fuselage and into the tail
assembly.

Note: A washer is not required for the rearward tail

attachment screw.

By not fully tightening the first screw you can move the tail to
help align it for the second screw. Patience pays off here. Once
aligned, securely tighten both screws.

Step 4. After you’ve completed the installation of the tail, the
opening can be covered with the red vinyl covering provided.

45°

19

Note: The rudder and elevator will be in-line with the tail

surfaces when the length of the pushrod is adjusted
correctly and servos centered.

Step 5. Now we’ll adjust the pushrod. Center the elevator and
rudder servo as we did in Stage 3 (repeat Step 1, Servo
Centering, page 14, just in case the servos got “bumped” during
any prior installations). Now shorten or lengthen the pushrod by
screwing the clevis until the rudder is even with the horizontal
stabilizer area ahead of it. Use the same procedure to adjust the
two elevator pushrods, making sure both elevator surfaces are
even with the horizontal stabilizer area ahead of them when the
clevis are attached. Each clevis will go into the second to the
outermost holes on the control horn for the rudder and the two
elevators. Make sure the rudder and elevator are parallel (in-line)
with the surface in front of them.

Rudder Pushrod Exiting the Fuselage

The rudder pushrod has a bend in it where it exits the fuselage.
Make sure the pushrod is oriented such that when the pushrod
exits the fuselage, it runs parallel with the fuselage. If you don’t
do this, the pushrod will bend when exiting the fuselage.

Deflection of Rudder

After you’ve attached the rudder pushrod clevis to the servo and
control horn and you’ve centered your rudder servo, check the
“right” throw of the rudder. If it seems that the rudder is not
moving to the right, you will need to mechanically adjust the
wooden pushrod dowel (with the metal rods attached) inside the
fuselage so it doesn’t hit the last interior former.

CONTINUED

Stage 4—Installing the Tail

Adjusting the Clevis

Adjust the clevis so that it moves the wooden pushrod dowel
further to the front of the fuselage.

1) Screw “out” the clevis that connects to the rudder control horn
so you have approximately 3/4 of the rod’s threads inside the
clevis.

2) Center your rudder servo like you did in Step One of Stage 3.

3) Screw “in” the clevis that attaches to the servo horn until the
rudder is “centered.”

This should now allow for sufficient “right” throw of your rudder.

Servo End

Thread clevis ”in” onto wire.

Rudder End

Thread clevis ”out” onto wire.

CONTINUED

20

Note: The pieces of fuel tubing (5mm long) are provided for

you to put on each clevis to prevent them from
accidentally coming open.

Stage 4—Installing the Tail

21

Step 1. Rest the wing upside down with 1/2 the wing and the
aileron linkages hanging off the edge of the work table. Locate
the hardwood blocks in each wing panel where the landing gear
will be mounted. Place one of the main landing gears into the
pre-cut slot. The short 90°bend is inserted onto the hardwood
block installed in the wing.

Note: You will put a slight bend in the landing gear straps

when you tighten them down on the wing. Push down
firmly on the screw when tightening to self tap the
screw into the hardwood.

Use two landing gear straps and four screws to mount the main
gear to the wing panel. Repeat the process for the other main gear.

Stage 5—Installing the Landing Gear

• Wing

• Fuselage

• Main wheels 2-1/2′′(2)

• Main landing gear (2)

• Landing gear straps (4)

• Wood screws (8)

• Nose wheel landing assembly

• Steering arm with screw

• Spring

• Collar with screw (2)

• Thread lock

Parts Needed

Landing Gear Straps

Main Landing Gear

Main Wheels

Nose Wheel

Wood Screws

Nose Gear

Steering Arm

Thread lock

Wheel Collars

Insert short end

in wing

22

Once the main gears are mounted, you can attach the main
landing gear wheel. Slide the wheel on, then one of the wheel
collars. Use thread lock to secure the screw to the wheel collar.
Repeat the process for the other landing gear.

Step 2. Turn the fuselage over on the workbench. Place the
steering arm on the Z-bend (using the outermost hole) with the
screw pointing toward the front. Now pass the wire nose wheel
assembly through the black molded nose wheel bearing on the
front of the fuselage, then through the steering arm into the metal
motor mount. See photo at right for the correct placement.

CONTINUED

Stage 5—Installing the Landing Gear

Steering
Arm

Steering
Pushrod

Top View

Firewall

Wheel

Step 3. Center the rudder servo (see page 14, Step 1). Adjust
the steering pushrod so the nose wheel steering arm is parallel
with the front of the firewall. To adjust, lengthen or shorten the
nose wheel pushrod by screwing in or out on the nose wheel
pushrod clevis.

Step 4. With the rudder servo’s control arm centered, adjust the
nose wheel so that it’s straight with the fuselage. Sight down the
fuselage to make sure it’s straight. Tighten the steering arm
screw securely.

Note: The screw for the steering arm is slightly longer than

the screws for the collars.

Step 5. Slide the wheel onto the nose gear, then a wheel collar.
Use thread lock to secure the screw to the wheel collar.

23

Step 1. On the front of the Advance 40 is the pre-attached
engine mount (HAN40M). Unscrew the engine mounting
hardware (engine clamp bolts and clamps) from the engine
mount. Retain the hardware as we’ll be using it to mount the
engine in place.

Stage 6—Installing the Engine

• .40 - .48 size 2-cycle engine with muffler or .50 - .56 size
4-stroke engine with muffler

• Engine mount with mounting hardware (the mounting
hardware is pre-installed on the engine mount)

• Fuselage assembly

• Fuel tubing piece (5mm) (1)

Parts Needed

Fuel tubing

Place the engine on the engine mount and loosely clamp the
engine in place using the provided mounting hardware.

Note: The knurled (checkered) side of the clamps faces

down, and it’s a good idea to use thread lock on the
bolts before installing the nuts.

Slide the engine as far forward as it will go and center the
engine, then tighten the screws until they become snug.

Note: Be sure the screws that hold the clamp over the engine

mounting lugs are tightened very securely.

Hint: When secured, grab hold of the engine—you should

be able to pick up the airplane. This is a check to be
certain the engine is tightened securely. You need to
continually check the tightness of these screws after
the first few flights to be certain they stay tight.

Step 2. Center the throttle servo and adjust the clevis (screw
in/out) until the carburetor barrel is 1/2 open when the clevis is
attached to the outermost hole on the throttle servo arm.

Note: Place a piece of the provided fuel tubing over the

clevis of the throttle linkage to prevent the clevis from
accidentally opening.

Step 3. Install the muffler using the screws provided with the
engine. Note: Some engines use Allen type hex bolts, and the
hex wrenches are included with the engine. Insert the screws
through the engine and mount the muffler. The muffler screws
must be very snug to prevent loosening under vibration.

Step 4. Note the two colors of fuel tubing, clear and orange.
Attach the clear fuel line to the fuel nipple. Attach the orange fuel
line to the pressure nipple on the muffler.

24

CONTINUED

Stage 6—Installing the Engine

25

Step 1. Locate the canopy and fit it in place on the fuselage. Use
the white trim tape to hold the canopy to the fuselage.

Note: The canopy comes with the screw holes pre-drilled in

the canopy. Press on the tape to find the indentations
of the pre-drilled holes in the canopy.

Stage 7—Installing the Canopy

Step 2. Secure the canopy using the screws provided. When

installing the screws, carefully apply pressure and the screws
will self tap into the wood.

• Fuselage

• Canopy

• Canopy trim tape

• Screws (6)

Parts and Supplies Needed

26

Note: You can thread the antenna through the tube, but this

is a time consuming process that’s not necessary.
Rubber banding the antenna to the tube is just as
effective, however it’s not as neat.

Installing the Antenna

Unchord the receiver and the antenna wire. Locate the antenna
tube included with the Advance 40. Pull about 1′′of antenna wire
past the end of the antenna tube and secure by wrapping a
rubber band around the tube to hold the antenna in place. Insert
the antenna tube through the back of the fuselage. Tuck the front
of the tube behind the servos in the fuselage.

You will need to purchase the appropriate propeller for your
particular engine. If you have a .40 size engine, a 10 ×6
propeller will work. For a .46 size engine, an 11 ×6 propeller is
the correct propeller.

Unscrew the prop nut from the engine and install the spinner
back plate, then the propeller, then the prop washer. Securely
tighten the prop nut using a 4-way or crescent wrench. Now
install the spinner using the two Phillips head screws provided.

Installing the Propeller

27

Installing the Wing

It’s now time to fit the wing to the fuselage. Attach the female
connector of the aileron extension to the aileron servo plug.
Center the wing on the fuselage, making sure the aileron wire
goes inside the fuselage.

Opening the Wing Bolt Holes in the
Covering

To locate the wing bolt holes, you can either visually see the
holes, or you can feel for the holes underneath the covering. To
make the holes, use the point of your Phillips screwdriver and
carefully poke through the covering on both sides of the wing.

Slide the wing into the slot at the forward part of the fuselage.
Insert the wing hold-down screws into the blind nuts through the
wing hold-down holes. Carefully tighten the wing hold-down
screws until the wing is secure to the fuselage. Use caution when
tightening the wing hold-down screws. You want a snug fit, but
be sure not to overtighten.

28

Before your first flight, it’s important to check the balance of the
Advance 40.

This is referred to as checking the C.G. (center of gravity).

Measure 3

3

/

8

" back from the leading edge of the wing and make a
mark. With the wing attached, place each index finger under the
wing at the marks (as shown).

Balancing the Advance 40

Gently lift the Advance 40. If balanced correctly, the fuselage will
hang level. If the nose hangs low, it will be necessary to add
weight to the tail. If the tail hangs low, it will be necessary to add
weight to the nose. This can be best accomplished by using
stick-on weights, which are available at your local hobby shop.

Control Throws

With the linkages hooked-up in the positions shown on the
servos and control horns, the Advance gives moderately
responsive pitch, roll and yaw, authority that is great for your
first flights. You can then adjust the linkage position for more
control response as you become more familiar with your
Advance.

29

Pre-Flight Check

1. Check that all control functions move in the correct direction.

If not, use the respective reversing switch to correct the direction.

2. Check that each clevis is securely snapped into position.

3. Check that all servo horn screws are tight.

4. Charge the transmitter and receiver battery per the

instructions included with the radio system.

5. Read and follow all the instructions included with the engine
and follow the recommended break-in procedure.

Flight Instructions

Experienced pilots will find the Advance 40 to be a confidence­inspiring airplane. Super stable and slow flight characteristics
make pinpoint landings a breeze. At full throttle with a strong
.40 engine, the Advance 40 is more than capable of most sport
aerobatics maneuvers.

Repair Information

One of the advantages of a VRTF kit is that replacement parts are
readily available through your hobby shop. In the misfortune of a
crash or broken part, see your local hobby dealer for a
replacement.

ELEVATOR

ELEVATOR

AILERON

AILERON

AILERON

CARBURETOR

THROTTLE

RUDDER

RUDDER

1/16”

30

Range Test Your Radio

1. Before each flying session range check your radio. This is
accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the antenna
collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. With your airplane
on the ground, you should be able to walk 30 paces away from
your airplane and still have complete control of all functions. If
not, don’t attempt to fly! Have your radio equipment checked out
by the manufacturer.

2. Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throttle,
rudder) move in the correct direction.

3. Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per the
instructions included with your radio.

Adjusting the Engine

1. Completely read the instructions included with your engine
and follow the recommended break-in procedure. At the field,
adjust the engine to a slightly rich setting at full throttle and
adjust the idle and low speed needle so that a consistent idle is
achieved. Before you fly, be sure that your engine reliably idles,
transitions and runs at all throttle settings. Only when this is
achieved should any plane be considered ready for flight.

Pre-Flight at the Field

31

1994 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code

Effective January 1, 1994

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code in

order for AMA liability protection to apply

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or
model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy
by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3
miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give
right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to
avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I
use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a
careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in
front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators.
Only those persons essential to the flight operations are to be
permitted on the flying side of the line; all others must be on the
spectator side. Flying over the spectator side of the line is prohibited,
unless beyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum
permissible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds.

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight line
must be established, one side of which is for flying, with the other side
for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contest director
or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operations or as
having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show or
demonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. The
only exceptions which my be permitted to the single straight line
requirements, under special circumstances involving consideration of
side conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must be
jointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director.

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I will fly
it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA Safety
Code.

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and
address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not
apply to models flown indoors.

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with gaseous
boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internal combustion
engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely hazardous fuels
such as those containing tetranitromethane or hydrazine.

AMA Safety Code

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes,
burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limited to,
rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, all
explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounted
devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions permitted are
rockets flown in accordance with the National Model Rocketry Safety
Code or those permanently attached (as per JATO use); also those
items authorized for Air Show Team use as defined by AST Advisory
Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In any case, models
using rocket motors as primary means of propulsion are limited to a
maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G series motor. Note: A model
aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or without engine, not able to
carry a human being.

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) unless
I have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations from the
AMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by any
restriction(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This does
not apply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric
motors.)

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during,
participation in any model operations.

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I
become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or spectator
areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, unless
beyond my control.

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently
allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properly
licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur
Band frequencies.) Further, any transmitters that I use at a sanctioned
event must have a certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed
indicating that it was manufactured or modified for operation at 20 kHz
frequency separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz).

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a pre­existing model club flying site without a frequency sharing agreement
with that club.

32

Ailerons. Each side of this airplane has a hinged control
surface, called an aileron, located on the trailing edge of the
wing. Move the left aileron up and the right aileron down, and
the airplane will turn or roll to the left. Perform the opposite
actions, and the airplane will roll to the right. This is how you
control the airplane's direction in flight.

Carburetor. By adjusting the needle valve in the carburetor,
you control the engine’s lean/rich fuel mixture and determine the
airplane's speed.

Charger. This is the device used to charge/recharge batteries.
If NiCad batteries are provided with the radio, a charger is
usually provided as well.

Clevis. The clevis connects the wire end of the pushrod to the
control horn of the control surface. A small clip, the clevis has
fine threads so that you can adjust the length of the pushrod.

Clunk. Located in the fuel tank, a clunk is weighted and ensures
that the intake line has a steady supply of fuel.

Computer Radio. By using the advanced programming
functions of the transmitter, you can adjust the airplane without
changing any mechanical structures.

Control Horn. This arm connects the control surface to the
clevis and pushrod.

Control Surfaces. The moveable part on the wing and tail that
causes the aircraft to roll (aileron), pitch (elevator) or
yaw (rudder).

Dead Stick. When the airplane is in flight gliding, without the
engine running, it is called “dead stick.”

Dihedral. The degree of angle (V-shaped bend) at which the
wings intersect the plane is called dihedral. More dihedral gives
an airplane more aerodynamic stability. Some sailplanes and
trainer planes with large dihedral dispense with ailerons and use
only the rudder to control the roll and yaw.

Electric Starter. This is the small motor commonly used to
start the airplane's engine.

Elevator. The hinged control surface functions as an elevator,
which you adjust to control the airplane's pitch axis. Pulling the
transmitter's control stick toward the bottom of the transmitter
adjusts the elevator upward, and the airplane begins to climb.
Push the control stick forward, and the airplane begins to dive.

Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV). This device is used to
check the voltage of the battery pack.

Flight Box. The box in which you store and transport your
flying equipment is called a flight box.

Flight Pack or Airborne Pack. These interchangeable terms
describe the radio equipment that is installed on the airplane.

Fuel Overflow Line (Vent). This line pressures the fuel tank
and provides an even fuel flow to the engine. It also functions as
an overflow line when the fuel tank is full.

Fuel Pickup Line. This line connects the fuel tank to the
carburetor, usually with a clunk on the tank end to keep the fuel
flowing while the aircraft is in flight.

Fuselage. The main body of an airplane.
Glow Plug Clip/Battery. A 1.2-volt battery with a clip which

is connected to your engine’s glow plug used to start the engine.
You remove it once the engine is running smoothly.

High Wing. This term describes an airplane that has its wings
mounted on the top of the fuselage.

Hinge. The hinges are the moving blades on the control surface
that allow you to control the airplane's movement. All hinges
must be glued properly and securely to prevent the airplane from
crashing. (This has already been done for you on the Advance

40.)
Horizontal Stabilizer. The horizontal surface of the tail gives

the airplane stability while in flight.

Leading Edge. The front of a flying surface.
Main Landing Gear. The wheel and gear assembly the

airplane uses to land. It is attached to the bottom of the fuselage.
Muffler. This device muffles engine noise and increases the

back pressure from the engine’s exhaust stack, which can
improve the airplane's performance at low speeds. Mufflers are
usually required by R/C Clubs.

Needle Valve. This mechanism within the carburetor adjusts
the fuel mixture and throttle. Refer to your engine’s manufacturer
instructions for directions on how to adjust the needle valve.

Glossary

33

NiCad. This abbreviation stands for Nickel Cadmium, the
chemical compound used in rechargeable batteries.

Nitro. Short for nitromethane, a fuel additive that improves an
airplane's high-speed performance. Check your engine’s
instructions to determine the ideal nitro content for your engine.

Nose Gear. The part of the landing gear that is attached to the
nose of the fuselage. The nose gear is usually connected to the
rudder servo to help you steer the airplane on the ground.

Pitch Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane’s nose
is raised or lowered. By adjusting the elevator, you can raise the
airplane's nose above the pitch axis (climb) or lower it below the
pitch axis (dive).

Pushrod. The rigid mechanism that transfers movement from
the servo to the control surface.

Receiver (Rx). The receiver unit in the airplane receives your
signals from the ground transmitter and passes the instructions
along to the airplane’s servos.

Roll Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane’s wings
are raised or lowered. By adjusting the ailerons, you can drop a
wing tip below the roll axis and cause the airplane to bank or
roll.

Rudder. The hinged control surface on the vertical stabilizer
that controls the airplane’s yaw. Moving the rudder to the left
causes the airplane to yaw left; moving the rudder to the right
causes it to yaw right.

Servo. The servo transforms your ground commands into
physical adjustments of the airplane while it’s in the air.

Servo Output Arm. A removable arm or wheel that connects
the servo to the pushrod. Also called servo horn.

Spinner. Term describing the nose cone that covers the
propeller hub.

Switch Harness. This switch is commonly located on the
fuselage and governs the on/off mechanism for the flight pace.

Tachometer. A device the measures the engine’s RPM
(rotations per minute) by counting light impulses that pass
through the spinning propeller.

Thread Locker. A liquid that solidifies; used to prevent screws
from loosening due to vibration.

Torque Rods. Inserted into ailerons, these rigid wire rods run
along the wings’ trailing edge, then bend downward and connect
to the pushrods.

Trainer Airplane. Designed to fly with high stability at low
speeds, a trainer model airplane allows new users some extra
reaction time as they learn to control the airplane’s movements.

Transmitter (Tx). The device used on the ground to transmit
instructions to the airplane. Three transmitter modes are used in
model airplanes. The most common is Mode II, where the left
stick controls the throttle and rudder and the right stick controls
the elevator and aileron.

Vertical Stabilizer. The vertical surface of the tail gives the
airplane stability while in flight.

Wheel Collar. The round retaining piece that anchors wheels
in place on the axle.

Wing. Because wings provide the primary lift force on an
airplane, adjustments to the wings affect the airplane’s
movements while in flight.

Yaw Axis. The vertical plane through which the airplane’s nose
passes as it yaws to the left or to the right. The rudder controls
the yaw axis.

Z-Bend. The wire ends of pushrods have Z-shaped bends,
which attach to the servo.

34

NOTES

35

NOTES

36

© Copyright 1998, Horizon Hobby Distributors, Inc.