GT STREET MACHINE User Manual

Operating Manual and Service Instructions
NEW
recumbent-
technology
2002
HP
July 2002
General safety instructions
Intended use – 3 The first miles – 3 Legal requirements – 3 Load capacity – 4 Carrying luggage – 4 Transport in the car – 5 Do not take kids with you – 5 Trailers – 5 Added parts and accessories – 5 Fairings – 5 Replacement of parts – 6 No alteration of parts – 6 Final assembly – 6 Screws and bolts – 6
Adjusting your new bike
Adjusting the leg length – 7 Adjusting the seat position – 11 Adjusting the handlebars – 13 Adjusting the suspension – 16
Handling instructions
Learning the new riding technique – 24 Wear protective clothing – 25 Use cleatless pedals – 25 Slowly increase the strain – 26 Do not ride freehand – 26 How to ride correctly and safely – 26 Quick release levers – 27 Brakes – 28 Gear system – 30 Light system – 31 Prop stand – 32
Table of Contents
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Maintenance and care
Wear and Tear – 33 Brakes – 33 Gear system – 35 Chain – 36 Chain tubes – 38 Chain roller – 40 Suspension fork – 41 Rear suspension element – 45 Swing arm pivot – 47 Seat – 48 Seat cushion – 49 Water bottle cage – 50 Mudguards – 50 Wheels – 51 Cleaning and conservation – 52 Storing the bicycle – 54 Screws and bolts – 54 Tightening torques for screws – 55
Warranty Pass
Warranty – 56 Warranty Pass – 57 Service Plan – 58 Proofs of service – 62
Revision July 2002. For latest product informa­tion, please check out our website at www.hpvelotechnik.com. All trademarks be­long to their respective owners.
HP V
ELOTECHNIK
Bleichstrasse 5 65830 Kriftel / Germany Tel. ++49 (0) 61 92 - 97 99 2-0 Fax ++49 (0) 61 92 - 91 02 18
thank you for buying a recumbent bike designed by HP VELO-
TECHNIK and congratulations on the purchase of your new
Street Machine GT! With the Street Machine GT, a high-quality touring bike, you will enjoy many years of exhilarating riding pleasure.
Your safety and your satisfaction are our main concern. On the following pages, this manual will inform you about important safety issues as well as maintenance and care instructions.
Even if you have many years of experience with bicycles please do take your time to read this manual carefully before the first ride.Your recumbent bike is designed with the latest bicycle technology by HP V
ELOTECHNIK that partly needs special treat-
ment and care.
In this manual you will find detailed instructions on how to optimize your Street Machine GT to meet your demands and riding style as well as your size and weight.
In addition to this, we have put together a collection of infor­mation on care and maintenance as well as special technical ad­vice from our engineers.
This guide helps you to keep your Street Machine GT in perfect condition so that you will always have maximum fun, comfort and safety.
Enjoy yourselves and have a great ride!
Paul J.W. Hollants, Dipl.-Ing. Daniel Pulvermüller and the HP V
ELOTECHNIK team
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Introduction
Dear customer,
To this user manual also belong the original manuals of component manufacturers such as the brake manufacturer, the gear system manu­facturer and the pedal manufacturer.These ma­nuals tell you in detail how to operate and maintain those specific parts. Please do read the manuals of the part manufacturers as care­fully as the manual on hand. Please have other users of your recumbent also read the manu­als before using the bike.
The maintenance and adjustment of this re­cumbent partly require special tools and skills. Do only work within your limits and, in the interests of your own safety, do not go be­yond. Should you be uncertain at any point, get in contact with your local dealer.
The instructions in this manual apply only to a completely assembled Street Machine GT with standard parts from the series production of HP VELOTECHNIK.
On special demand HP V
ELOTECHNIK delivers
frame kits with which a specialist dealer can assemble a bicycle individually. In this case the manuals on the operation and maintenance of the parts only represent a guideline, please do read every manual of every part manufacturer. The specialist dealer is responsible for the ex­pert assembly, please contact him for detailed advice! A bicycle that has been assembled from a frame kit must always be tested and appro­ved by a qualified bicycle mechanic before your first ride.
Introduction
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Caution! The texts in the gray boxes are particularly important for your safety.Texts that begin with "Danger!" mark an immedi­ate danger for your life and your health. Please do read them carefully.
General safety instructions
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Legal requirements
When you ride your bike on the public road it must comply with national legislation and gui­delines.These will vary from country to coun­try.
In general, there are minimum standards for brakes, reflectors and lighting systems, as well as usually a general duty to ensure that your vehicle is in roadworthy safe condition.There will also be a duty to ride in a safe and respon­sible manner. If you ride your HP V
ELOTECHNIK
bike in traffic you should be sure to observe all the applicable laws and regulations.
In most countries, including Germany and the UK, two independent braking systems are re­quired. Do not ride with only one brake wor­king!
Please contact your local dealer to find out ab­out your legal obligations.
General Safety Instructions
Intended use
Your Street Machine GT is a bicycle for the use on streets and surfaced roads.
This bicycle is not designed for the use in ra­cing and off-road riding, for jumping or acroba­tics, and you must not ride across kerbs, stairs, etc.
Damage through inappropriate use, assembly errors, accidents or similar activities and willful damage results in the loss of any warranty.
The intended use also includes the precise ob­servation of the prescribed usage and mainte­nance regulations and instructions.
The first miles
The first 300 km are an important phase in which you break in the bicycle. During the first use of a new bicycle the screws may bed in and come loose. Cables and spokes may stretch. Please be very attentive during that period.
After 300 km or after two months at the la­test you will have to take your bicycle to a bi­cycle mechanic for the first service. Please re­cord this first service and the tasks performed in the warranty pass on page 57.This first ser­vice is the prerequisite for further use of the bicycle and for your warranty claims.
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Load capacity
The maximum load (rider + luggage) is 120 kg (276 lbs).The maximum total weight (bicycle + rider + luggage) is 140 kg (322 lbs).The lower limit is valid. It is important to adjust the spring stiffness of the suspension according to the load, see the chapter about adjusting the suspension in this manual, page 16.
Carrying luggage
Luggage transport is only allowed with the special rear racks, lowrider racks and luggage boxes offered by HP Velotechnik .
Maximum load: Rear rack 25 kg (57 lbs) Lowrider under the seat 25 kg (57 lbs) Luggage box (Speedbag) 10 kg (23 lbs)
When a rear rack or a Speedbag is mounted you have to make sure that when the rear sus­pension is fully compressed there is at least a 1 cm (
1
/3") distance between the rear tire or
mudguard and the rear rack. If you want to in­crease this distance you have to decrease the suspension travel of the rear suspension ele­ment with clip-on spacers. For that purpose please consult your local dealer.
Additional loading can influence thehandling of your bike considerably. If you plan on riding with heavy luggage we advise you to make a test ride on a street with no traffic to adjust to the new situation.
The load should be placed as close to the bo­dy of the rider as possible, since this leads to a more stable performance.You can also impro­ve the handling of the bike by positioning the center of gravity of the luggage as low as pos­sible, so pack heavy items in the bottom of your panniers. Hang heavy panniers on the lo­wrider rack preferably to the rear rack.
Be careful that your luggage on the racks or in the Speedbag is safely stored. Bags must be tightly fastened to the rack so they can not move. In no case may loose parts like straps or belts touch the wheels, the derailleur or the suspension.
We recommend waterproof bicycle bags by the German manufacturer O
RTLIEB.You can buy
them with extra large hooks matching the oversized tubes of the rack.You can also refit those large hooks later.
Take care that your luggage does not cover the lighting system and the reflectors of your bicycle and that they stay fully functional.
In case you want to park your bicycle take ca­re to lean it on a wall or any other solid ob­ject.With the kickstand alone it is not possible to safely park a bicycle loaded with luggage, it could fall down and be damaged.
General Safety Instructions
General safety instructions
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Transport in the car
The best way of transporting your bicycle is inside the car. See that it does not lie on the derailleur.
If you want to transport it outside the car we recommend a roof-rack or a rear carrier.Take care to fasten your bicycle at the frame only.
Please remove any part that could come loose during transport (seat cushion, water bottles, luggage bags, pumps, pennants, etc.).
Do not take kids with you
The Street Machine GT is not designed for the transport of children.You are not allowed to mount a child's seat. It is only allowed to transport children in a trailer that has been specially designed for that purpose.
Trailers
You are allowed to use trailers up to 30 kg (68 lbs) with the Street Machine GT. Always check that the suspension and the trailer still work properly after you have mounted the trailer. Take care that the trailer does not damage the frame in case the bicycle falls over.
Added parts and accessories
Additional accessories may impair the function of your Street Machine GT. We advise you to generally ask your dealer before you mount any special parts or accessories to your bicy­cle.
Take care that the handlebar and the suspen­sion always stay mobile.You may not add any parts to the handlebar or the seat that might endanger the rider through sharp edged or pointed shapes while steering, getting on and off the bike or bumping against something.
Before you purchase a bell or a lighting system make sure that these accessories conform to your national laws and regulations.
Fairings
As front fairing for the Street Machine GT, you may use the Streamer offered by HP V
ELOTECHNIK. Please take care to assure a good
vision over the fairing and sufficient freedom of movement below.
Please take into account that any fairing makes the bicycle more prone to crosswind influen­ces. In strong wind or gusts of wind unsafe si­tuations may occur. Please remove the fairing in such weather conditions before riding.
Caution! Do not fasten your bicycle at the handlebar or, with disassembled wheels, at the dropouts.The wind causes violent forces that can stress the parts and therefore may cause damage. Such damage may not be no­ticed immediately.
Caution! Mounting additional parts or ac­cessories is at your own risk. It is important that you carefully read the installation guide of the manufacturer.Additions to the handle­bar like fairings, handlebar fittings, bottle hol­ders, etc. may impair your safety due to ad­ditional loading or clips with sharp edges.
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Replacement of parts
The replacement of parts relevant for safety (especially brakes, light system, stem, handlebar, fork, drive train, suspension elements) should only be done with original parts by a bicycle mechanic, since it requires a certain degree of skill, suitable tools and mechanical aptitude.
Any technical change you perform on your own is at your own risk!
No alteration of parts
Final assembly
Your bike has been delivered to your specialist dealer only partly assembled.
Your dealer has carefully finished the assembly, perhaps altered the spefication of your bike to meet your special requirements and perfor­med a test ride. Please make sure that this pre-delivery service is recorded in the warran­ty document at the end of this manual.
All screws must be checked and tightened, es­pecially on the handlebar, stem, fork, swing arm pivot and wheels. Please follow the tightening torque settings listed in the table on page 55.
Rear derailleur and brakes must be checked and adjusted. Please follow the instructions in the manuals of the parts manufacturers that come with this manual.
Screws and bolts
General Safety Instructions
Danger! If any part is deformed (e.g. due to
an accident or overload), especially frame, fork, handlebar, seat mounts, pedals, cranks and brakes, it is not allowed to use it any further or repair it. Do not try to straighten bent parts.You must replace them for your own safety. If you do not replace a damaged part it can result in a total failure of the part and you may be seriously injured!
Caution! You are not allowed to perform any work on the parts of the bicycle, especi­ally frame, fork, handlebar and seat, which might endanger their solidity. These works include drilling holes, welding, brazing, paint methods that add heat or any other chemical treatment. If any of these works is done improperly it may result in a loss of strength through direct damage or increased susceptibility to corrosion.
Caution! Screws must be tightened with prescribed tightening torque. In this manual tightening torques are given in "Nm“ (Newtonmeter).Always use a torque wrench wherever a torque setting is given in this manual. Never rely on "feel". Screws tightened too much or not enough can break, which can lead to dangerous acci­dents. In case you don't own a torque wrench have your bicycle mechanic do the respective work.You will find a table with the prescribed torque settings on page 55 in this manual.
Adjusting your new bike
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Before the first ride: adjusting your new Street Machine GT
The seating position is essential for your riding comfort, well-being and efficient cycling on the Street Machine GT.Therefore you should ad­just the frame, seat, handlebar and suspension to your individual requirements.
In order to adapt the Street Machine GT as closely as possible to your body dimensions and to find the ideal seating position you need to adjust the front boom, seat and handlebars.
Adjusting the leg length: moving the front boom
In order to adjust the leg length you have to move the front boom (the front part of the frame where the cranks are mounted) within the main frame. Unscrew the screw M8x35 un­der the main tube with a 6 mm Allen key.Take a grip on the front changer tube or both cranks and move the front boom into the fra­me or pull it out while cautiously turning it.
When you pull out the front boom shift the chain on the smallest chain ring and sprocket and turn the cranks a little bit backwards whi­le pulling.Thus the chain is not under tension.
Adjusting the leg length
Danger! All procedures described here re-
quire a certain degree of skill, suitable tools and mechanical aptitude.After any adjust­ment perform a static check and take a test­ride on a quiet street, away from traffic. If you have any doubts please contact your lo­cal dealer.
Caution! After you have unscrewed the clamping screws take them off and examine them for deformation. Lubricate threads and heads thoroughly.Then re-fit the screws. If they don't turn easily you will have to repla­ce the screws.
Unscrew the clamping screw to adjust the front boom.
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In order to check the adjustments have anot­her person hold the bicycle while you are sit­ting on the recumbent.
Adjust the front boom in such a way that your leg is fully extended when your heel (wearing flat shoes) is in the foremost position on the pedal. Experience shows that the pedal-to-seat distance on a recumbent can be slightly longer than on a conventional bike.
While you are pedaling, the ball of your foot should be positioned over the center of the pedal axle.
It is important that your leg is not fully straigh­tened when the crank is in the foremost posi­tion. If the distance is too great it is difficult to overcome this dead point, pedaling becomes uncomfortable and there is too much strain on the sinews of your feet and legs. If the distance is too short you may suffer from knee pain or your legs bump on the handlebar.
For riders with a short leg length the front boom has to be cut by a bicycle mechanic, so that it can be inserted to the maximum. It is important to trim the end of the tube neatly. The bare metal of the shortened tube end has to be protected against corrosion with a paint stick or wax spray.
The opening of the main frame is padded with a plastic paper sleeve that accomplishes the re­quired clamping and protects the surface of the front boom.When the front boom has been completely removed take care not to da­mage the plastic paper adding while inserting it again.
Adjusting the leg length
Adjust the front boon so that your knee will not be fully straighte­ned when pedaling.
Caution! The minimum insertion depth of the front boom into the main frame is 10 cm (4"). In no case may the end of the front boom be visible in the clamping slot when you look at the main frame from below, sin­ce it may result in a damage of the frame.
The rear end of the front boon must never be visible in the clam­ping slot.
Adjust the front boom so that the bottom bracket axle is horizontal when you look at it from the front. For that purpose look beyond the bottom bracket shell at the rear wheel ax­le and align the front boom parallel to it.Align your eyes with the bottom bracket axle and not the front changer tube above.Then sit on your bicycle and check the position. (Hint: When you have the impression that the bot­tom bracket is turned alternately to the left and then to the right when cycling you will ha­ve found the correct middle position).
Tighten the screw with a torque wrench (tigh­tening torque 14-16 Nm). On your first ride check whether there is sufficient clamping.
In order to move the bottom bracket tube your specialist dealer has to adjust the chain length. By default the Street Machine GT co­mes with a very long chain so that the adjust­ment range of the bicycle can be fully used wi­thout the need to lengthen the chain.
After the first adjustment of the leg length that you have done together with your specialist dealer while handing over the bicycle, the chain has to be shortened so that the arm of the derailleur is not fully turned forward while shifting on the big chain ring in front and the big sprocket behind.The derailleur must still be able to compensate a length change of the chain of at least 4 cm. In order to choose the right chain length, please consult the manual of the derailleur manufacturer.
Adjusting your new bike
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Danger!If the screw is tightened too much or bent, the screw can break! If the clamping is insufficient the front boom can turn du­ring a ride which may cause your feet to slip from the pedals and lead to a dangerous fall.
Danger! After the chain has been shorte­ned it has to be closed with a special closing link or a chain riveting tool that expands the rivet while riveting (i.e. R
OHLOFF- Revolver).
A poorly joined chain may break and thus lead to a fall. Have adjustments of the chain length or the changing of the chain be done by your bicycle mechanic.
Caution! Take care that the chain tubes ha­ve at least a clearance of 5 cm (2") to the rear derailleur and the front changer even under maximum tension of the chain and that the tubes stay tight in their fastenings. Shorten the tubes if necessary. If the end of the chain tube gets into the rotating drive train it could be locked-up and destroyed. The end of the rear chain tube has to be tightly secured with a cable tie behind the retention spring.
Check that there is at least a 5 cm (2") clearance between the end of the chain tube and other parts of the drive train.
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After you have adjusted the front boom you should seal the gap in the clamping slot bet­ween the front boom and the main frame with wax or silicone in order to protect your frame from the penetration of water and dirt and hence damage through corrosion which may lead to a broken frame.
We recommend you to slightly readjust the front boom every 3 months so that knee, mus­cless and ankles will be used differently, and you might find a more comfortable and more efficient riding position.
A wrong adjustment may lead to pain in your knees and inefficient pedaling. In addition we recommend to ride with a high pedaling ca­dence, which means to pedal fast and with litt­le pressure. Pedaling with too much pressure may also lead to pain in the knees.You will find more information about this on page 26.
Adjusting the leg length
Adjusting your new bike
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Choose the right size
The selection of the right seat size and the proper seat angle is crucial for a comfortable feeling while riding a recumbent.
By the time you read this manual, you will alre­ady have chosen the correct seat size together with your specialist dealer. In the following section you will find the most important items very briefly, in case you don't feel comfortable with your current seat size.
The upper curve of the seat in the area of the shoulder blades determines the correct seat size:Through this shape the shoulder and neck area is lifted from the recumbent position so that the head rests in a natural and relaxed position. For this reason you shouldn't need a head rest if you have the right seat position. In practice, a head rest is not very advisable be­cause it makes it difficult to turn your head to see the traffic behind you and it transfers un­pleasant vibrations, even on a well suspended bicycle.
In order to adjust the seat to your back length the seat comes in four different sizes: Approximate values are: Under a height of 1,73 m (5' 8") we recommend seat size S, up to 1,83 m (6' 4") height seat size M, up to 1,93 m (6' 7") height seat size L, and above we re­commend seat size XL. Since however the length and the shape of the back differ from person to person we recommend you to carry out an extensive test ride before ordering. If you are in doubt we advise you to choose the larger size, since it will be more comfortable in most cases.
The seat is too small when you have the im­pression that your back is pressed too much into a "hunchback". It is too large when you have the impression that the seat angle is too far back when you are in the most upright po­sition, or when you hit the upper seat edge
with the back of your head when you look up­wards. Please note that our seat sizes only re­fer to the length of the seat; the seat width re­mains the same on all sizes.
Altering the seat shape
You can alter the seat shape individually to match the shape of your back by adding foam material under the seat cushion.The seat has a special channel down the center for your spine with an extra layer of foam for the spine in the seat form.Thus, the spinal processi of the ver­tebrae are comfortably padded. Some people have single vertebrae that stick out particular­ly. If your spine is like this you can cut out so­me padding material at the respective spot in the spine channel.
The foam cushion in the spine channel is faste­ned with Velcro and is thus adjustable. Some users find it comfortable when the seat rises a little bit at the front edge.This raise gives a little more hold to the front and can reduce a possible feeling of slipping out, especially when the seat position is upright.You can try it out by fastening the foam cushion so that the lo­wer end under the seat cushion forms a little bump.You can purchase a special add-on for your seat to permanently form such a bump.
Adjusting the seat position
HP VELOTECHNIK’s seats feature a special channel for the spine. You can individually adjust the padding.
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Adjusting the seat angle
A big advantage of the Street Machine GT is that you can adjust the seat angle very quickly. For beginners or rides in the city you can choose an upright seat position for a better view, and for longer travels you can choose a flat position for better aerodynamics.
The seat is fastened with two quick release le­vers on slotted aluminum seat mounts.You can adjust the angle by 10 degrees by simply ope­ning the two quick release levers. In the me­dium seat position the angle is about 35° from horizontal.
Because of the special cam shape of the two slotted holes, the seat effectively pivots around a central axis, approximately in the area of the lower lumbar vertebrae.This is the place whe­re you support the biggest part of your peda­ling force while riding, so this point determines the distance to the pedals.The advantage of this design is that you adjust the distance from the seat to the bottom bracket only once as described above, a change in the seat angle does not require an adjustment of the front boom.
Adjusting the seat with mounted Speedbag
A mounted Speedbag impedes the access to the rear quick release for the adjustment of the seat angle.
Therefore you should adjust your seat prior to mounting the Speedbag.You have to screw the Speedbag to the seat afterwards.
It is possible to simplify the adjustment of the seat by replacing the knurled nut of the rear quick release by a big washer and a self-locking hex headed nut.This allows you to tighten or loosen the seat mounts with a tool you insert from behind.
Adjusting the seat position
Caution! The two quick releases have to be
closed firmly (tightening force 15-20 kg / 45 lbs) to safely hold the seat.You are not allo­wed to open them while riding.After they have been closed the imprint "close" must be visible. If the quick releases are not tigh­tened appropriately the seat can move while riding and you may no more be able to handle your bicycle.
Adjusting your new bike
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Adjusting the handlebars
As standard equipment the Street Machine GT comes with under seat steering.The position of the handlebars is under the legs. Alternatively, we offer above seat steering where the handlebars are above the legs.
The handlebars are connected with the front fork through a stem.There are different stems for under seat steering in use:
a) a vertically adjustable stem that is inserted
in the steerer tube
b) a stem that is clamped onto the steerer
tube and at the same time fixes the steering head bearing (so called "A head stem")
Starting at the fork, both stems have to point backwards to the seat.
a) Adjusting the stem - vertically adjustable stem
Remove the rubber plug and undo the hex-he­aded screw that lies below. If the stem still doesn't move then you can undo the clamping in the stem shaft with a gentle punch on the Allen key.
Mount your bicycle, fix the front wheel with your feet and align the stem parallel to the front wheel.
At the same time insert the stem so far in the steerer tube that the handlebars move freely under the seat even when the seat is in its most upright position.The minimum distance between seat and handlebars is 5 mm.Take ca­re that the minimum distance between the handlebar clamping at the stem and the frame of your bike is 5 mm.
Adjusting the handlebars
Tighten the screw with 14-16 Nm. Check the clamping by trying to turn the stem against the front wheel. Remount the rubber cap.
b)Adjusting the stem - A head stem
The A head stem is clamped onto the steerer tube with two screws.At the same time it fi­xes the steering head bearing.
Adjusting the stem
In case you only want to adjust the already mounted stem parallel to the front wheel you don't have to undo the screw on the cap.
Mount your bicycle, fix the front wheel with your feet and align the stem parallel to the front wheel.
Then tighten both clamping screws alternately with 8-10 Nm. Check the clamping by trying to turn the stem against the front wheel. Check the play of the steering head bearing, see below.
Danger! Adjusting the stem also requires some work at the steering head bearing. In case of assembly errors the danger of acci­dents is increased. If you are in doubt have your bicycle mechanic adjust the stem.
Danger! The hex-headed screw in the cap adjusts the play of the steering head bearing. This screw does not help to clamp the stem tightly to the steerer tube. It does not secu­re it against turning.Take care that both clamping screws on the side are tightened as prescribed after you have finished your works at the stem. Otherwise the stem may turn while riding and cause an accident.
Adjusting the head set bearing play
The head set bearing has to be adjusted so that the fork with the front wheel turns easily without showing play.
To check the bearing play pull the front brake and grab with your other hand the upper bea­ring cup. Now move your bicycle back and forth. If the steering head bearing has play the upper cup moves noticeably in contrast to the fixed part. In that case undo the clamping screws and tighten the screw in the cap a bit more.
To check whether the front wheel turns smoothly lift your bicycle at the frame so that the front wheel moves freely above the ground. Lean your bike to the side. Now the handlebars should moove smoothly immedia­tely.When you hold the frame straight and push the handlebars slightly they should move smoothly from their middle position. If the be­aring is too tight undo the clamping screws at the side and loosen the hex-headed screw in the cap a little bit by turning it anti clockwise. Now move the stem upwards by swinging it a little bit.
After you have adjusted the bearing play check if the stem is adjusted in a parallel position to the front wheel and tighten the two clamping screws alternately with 8-10 Nm. Check the clamping by trying to turn the stem against the front wheel.
Check whether the handlebars move freely wi­thout touching the frame or the seat.
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Removing/mounting the stem
Remove the lower quick release of the seat mount and lift the seat.
Take off the cap of the steerer tube and remo­ve the hex-headed screw in the cap complete­ly.
Undo both clamping screws at the side of the stem. Now you can remove the stem upwards.
To mount the stem put it on the lubricated steerer tube.Tighten the clamping screws at the side a little bit, put on the cap and tighten the hex-headed screw again through the cap. Adjust the steering head bearing. (see below).
Then tighten the two clamping screws alterna­tely with 8-10 Nm. Check the clamping by try­ing to turn the stem against the front wheel.
Adjusting the handlebars
Caution! The stem fixes the steering head
bearing and holds the front fork with the wheel.After the stem has been removed these parts are no longer supported and may fall down off the frame. Hold the fork with one hand or secure the fork e.g. with a cable tie at the frame.
While riding you should allow your arms to rest in a relaxed position on the handlebars. Do not pull on the handlebars. If the handle­bars turn in the stem clamping during the ride stop immediately and tighten the clamping screw of the handlebars again. If the handle­bars turn in a stem that is not sufficiently clamped the handlebars or the stem might be damaged or deformed. In that case a secure clamping of the screw can no longer be guar­anteed, even with the correct tightening tor­que, and handlebars and stem have to be ex­changed.
You can make smaller adjustments by moving the cables in their guides at the frame and the handlebar, so that there is enough room at all mobile parts. For this purpose you can move the cable for the front changer a little bit into or out of the frame. If this proves not to be sufficient you will have to have your specialist dealer shorten the cables or replace them by longer cables.
Handlebar grips
The grips on the handlebar are susceptible to wear and tear. Have your grips replaced by your bike shop once they don't feel comforta­ble anymore.The grips always need to be atta­ched firmly to the handlebar.
Adjusting your new bike
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Adjusting the angle of the handle­bars
By changing the angle of the handlebars you can adjust the position of the grip to the length of your upper body and your arms.
Most riders are comfortable with a 45° angle so that the grip points diagonally to the front and up.The more upright the grip position the lesser is the maximum possible cramp of the handlebars, since it touches your legs earlier.
In order to change the angle, undo the screw of the handlebars clamping by some turns.Turn the handlebars until they are in your favorite position. Check that the stem clamps the handlebars exactly in the middle.Tighten the clamping screw with 10-12 Nm. Check the correct clamping of the handlebars by moun­ting your bike and pulling the handlebars. In doing so they must not turn.
Please take care that the clamping area of the stem is thoroughly trimmed and does not have any sharp edges which may lead to a rupture of the handlebars.
Caution! After you have adjusted the hand­lebar position you also have to adjust the length of the brake cables and shifter cables. The cables have to run smoothly without any sharp turns and they may not be bent or stretched beyond their elastic limit when the handlebar is at maximum cramping.Also avo­id large arches that could be caught up in other parts.
Danger! Every time you undo the clamping connection you'll have to check the screw. It must not be bent, corroded or damaged. In addition to this you'll have to check the wel­ded-on thread nut of the clamping.The thre­ad must not be damaged and the screw must turn easily. In case of damage or defor­mation you have to exchange the clamping screw immediately.
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Purpose of the adjustment of the suspension
Your Street Machine GT is fitted with a sus­pension fork for the front wheel and a rear swing arm for the suspension of the rear wheel.This system compensates small bumps on the road so that riding is comfortable and the strain on your bicycle is reduced.
A well-adjusted suspension improves the trac­tion of your bicycle. Especially in bends this does not only allow a higher speed but it also increases your safety.
In order to achieve maximum riding comfort, the suspension settings have to match your weight as well as the road condition.
The goals of the adjustment are:
maximum use of the available suspension
travel without the suspension frequently bottoming out
quick reaction of the suspension without
obvious oscillation after having passed a bump
avoiding self inforcing oscillations, that means
increasing oscillations of the suspension system due to pedaling influence, rhythmic body movements or permanent wavy underground
Suspension and damping
The suspension systems of the suspension fork and the rear swing arm are fitted with the ac­tual springs and dampers, which are mounted separately.
Often, the terms suspension and damping are used inappropriately in everyday language.
The spring is the elastic element that com­presses and decompresses through the load, which occurs on bumpy roads.While decom­pressing the spring releases the same energy it has saved during compression.
The Street Machine GT is fitted with coil springs of steel at the suspension fork and the rear fork swing arm. In addition to this the suspension fork contains springs made of mi­crocellular foam elastomers. (MCU).
The damper slows down the process of com­pression and decompression.That means that the bicycle after having passed a bump does not immediately "spring" back to the initial po­sition or even further than that.The damper converts spring energy into friction and finally into heat, and thus takes away energy from the suspension system.That way the damper pre­vents that the spring swings uncontrolled after an initial stimulation. In addition the damper helps to avoid self inforcing oscillations of the suspension that may be caused by reoccurring stimulation like pedaling forces within a crank revolution or the rhythmic up and down mo­vement of the legs.
The hydraulic damping of the rear suspension is adjustable, in case you have mounted the op­tional suspension element DMM ST8ARC.
Adjusting the suspension
Adjusting to load
The luggage carriers of the Street Machine GT are mounted to the suspended part of the fra­me.That way your luggage is also fully suspen­ded and it spares the material. Most notably, even under heavy load the suspension will compensate an uneven road much better and quicker compared to a design where the lugga­ge carrier would be mounted to the unsuspen­ded parts, e.g. the rear swing arm.
Additional luggage changes the load of the wheels and their suspension.The suspensions are more compressed through the load.That way, there is less suspension travel for bumps while riding.Your suspension could seize up more often.
The suspension of the front wheel is less affec­ted since luggage at the rear rack almost only puts weight on the rear wheel. Only in case of heavy luggage on the lowrider under the seat is there an influence on the front wheel.
In order to compensate the variations in the load you can change the pre-load. For details see the following chapter.
Theoretically this can compensate for a load change of approx. 10 kg (23 lbs) at the rear wheel. In case of higher variations in the load you would have to exchange the spring for an­other spring with another spring stiffness. In practice you can often do without it: the Street Machine GT offers with 90 mm (3
1
/2") a lot of suspension travel for a touring bike. When you choose the spring stiffness so that the full 90 mm are at your disposal when your recumbent is under maximum load, you will have a somewhat smaller but still very comfor­table suspension travel when you ride without luggage.
Adjusting your new bike
17
HP
Velotechnik
You should always set the damping as low as possible to give the bicycle the possibility to quickly react even to several bumps in a row.
You can ride the Street Machine GT with a considerably lower damping than for example a MTB: due to the relaxed and steady position of the body the recumbent does not experien­ce extreme variations in the load as it is known from dancing on the pedals while riding uphill on a mountain bike.
In addition to this, varying pedaling forces have very little influence on the suspension of the bicycle due to the No Squat design of the sus­pension system of the Street Machine GT. So when you adjust the damping, always start with a low damping.
It is necessary to choose the correct spring stiffness to have a well operating suspension system.The spring stiffness is a measure for the compression of a spring at a certain load. It is either given in "N/mm" (Newton per Millimeters) or "lbs./inch" (Pounds per Inch). Sometimes you only find "lbs." printed on the springs.
The suspension is designed in a way that the spring compresses considerably when you mount your bicycle.This is called negative sus­pension travel and it enables the bicycle to de­compress on bumpy roads. (Which is in fact a definitely positive feature.) You should choose a spring stiffness with which this negative sus­pension travel takes up around 30% of the overall suspension travel.This value usually provides a very comfortable ride on your fully suspended recumbent bike designed by HP V
ELOTECHNIK.
The knob must turn easily. If a knob does not turn any further you have reached the final po­sition. In that case turn the knob again in the other direction about half a turn.
Do not turn the knob by force beyond the fi­nal position since this will damage the plastic thread inside.
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HP
Velotechnik
Adjusting the suspension
Adjusting the suspension fork
The front fork of the Street Machine GT co­mes with telescopic suspension forks from BALLISTIC or M
EKS.
At your request different types of suspension forks can be mounted to your Street Machine GT, please notice the manuals of the suspen­sion fork manufacturer that are possibly enclo­sed.
The suspension travel of the B
ALLISTIC fork is
approx. 40 mm (1
1
/2"), of the MEKS fork ap-
prox. 50 mm (2").
The suspension fork should compress by 30% while mounting the bike, which corresponds to 10-12 mm.
You set this value by adjusting the pre-load of the spring, provided you chose the correct spring stiffness (page. 19).
Every model has a turning knob on the fork legs that allows a simple adjustment of the pre-load.
The suspension forks B
ALLISTIC XL-600All and
MEKS Carbon All have springs in both fork legs, the suspension fork MEKS Carbon AC has springs only in the left fork leg since the other fork leg contains a hydraulic damping cartrid­ge.
By turning the knobs clockwise you increase the pre-load, by turning them anti clockwise you decrease the pre-load.
It is sufficient to set the pre-load in the two fork legs to approximately the same level. It is not necessary to match them exactly.
Turning knob for the pre-load of the suspension fork BALLISTIC XL-600All
Turning knob for the pre-load of the suspension forks MEKS Carbon AC and M
EKS
Carbon All
Adjusting your new bike
19
HP
Velotechnik
Choosing the spring stiffness of the suspension fork
Your suspension fork comes by default with a standard spring that covers a wide range of lo­ad and riding styles.
If the spring stiffness should not meet your re­quirements after adjusting the pre-load or if the suspension bottoms out too much, you can order a spring with another spring stiff­ness through your dealer and have it mounted there. For more information see page 41.
It is not important to exactly follow the re­commended values for the negative travel, rat­her follow your feeling how the bicycle beha­ves during a ride, depending on the road situa­tion.
While riding you should only seldom feel the suspension bottoming out. However, in case this never occurs the spring might be to hard which means you don't use the total suspen­sion travel.
The suspension fork MEKS Carbon AC is fitted with a hydraulic damping unit. On the right fork leg is a turning knob to adjust the dam­ping.
You increase the damping by turning the knob clockwise.
We recommend you to start with the lowest possible damping. Only when the fork oscilla­tes more than once after you have gone over a bump should you increase the damping.
When the fork works fine when passing a sin­gle bump but stiffens distinctly when passing several bumps that come quickly in a row, the damping is too high. However, when the fork "jumps" during the rebound movement the damping has to be increased.
Turning knob for the adjustment of the damping of the suspen­sion fork M
EKS Carbon AC.
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