Pump Won’t Start
No power at the motor
If there is no voltage at the control panel,
check the feeder panel for tripped circuits and
reset those circuits.
Fuses are blown or the
circuit breakers have
tripped
Turn off the power and remove the fuses.
Check for continuity with an ohmmeter.
Replace the blown fuses or reset the circuit
breaker. If the new fuses blow or the circuit
breaker trips, the electrical installation, motor,
and wires must be check for defects.
(3-phase motors only)
Motor starter overloads
are burned or have tripped
Check for voltage on the line and load side
of the starter. Check the amp draw and
make sure the heater is sized correctly.
Replace any burned heaters or reset. Inspect
the starter for other damage. If the heater trips
again, check the supply voltage. Ensure that
heaters are sized correctly and the trip setting
is appropriately adjusted.
(3-phase motors only)
Starter does not energize
Energize the control circuit and check for
voltage at the holding coil.
Defective controls
Replace worn or defective parts or controls.
Motor or cable is defective
If an open or grounded winding is found,
remove the motor from the well and recheck
the measurements with the lead separated
from the motor. Repair or replace the motor
or cable.
(1-phase motors only)
Defective capacitor
Turn off the power and discharge the capacitor
by shorting the leads together. Check it with
an analog ohmmeter (set to R x 100k).
When the meter is connected to the capacitor,
the needle should jump toward 0 (zero) ohms
and slowly drift back to infinity (Ą). Replace
capacitor if it is defective.
Defective pressure switch
or the tubing to it is
plugged
Watch the pressure gauges as the pressure
switch operates. Remove the tubing and blow
through it.
Replace as necessary.
The pump is mechanically
bound or stuck
Turn off the power and manually rotate the
pump shaft. Also check the motor shaft rotation, the shaft height, and the motor’s amp
draw (to see if it indicates a locked rotor).
If the pump shaft doesn’t rotate, remove the
pump and examine it. If necessary, dismantle
it and check the impellers and seal for
obstruction. Check for motor corrosion.
POSSIBLE CAUSE CHECK THIS BY... CORRECT THIS BY...
Check for voltage at the control box or panel.
Turn off the power and disconnect the motor
leads from the control box. Measure the leadto-lead resistance with an ohmmeter (set to R
x 1). Measure the lead-to-ground values with
an ohmmeter (set to R x 100K).
Check all safety and pressure switches for
defects. Inspect the contacts in control devices.
If there is no voltage, check the control circuit
fuses. If there is voltage, check the holding coil
for weak connections. Ensure that the holding
coil is designed to operate with the available
control voltage. Replace the coil if defects are
found.
POSSIBLE CAUSE CHECK THIS BY... CORRECT THIS BY...
(3-phase motors only)
Shaft is turning in the
wrong direction
Correct the wiring. For single phase motors,
check the wiring diagram on the motor. For three
phase motors, simply switch any two power
leads.
Pump is operating at the
wrong speed (too slow)
Check for low voltage and phase
imbalance.
Replace defective parts or contact power
company, as applicable.
Check valve is stuck (or
installed backwards)
Remove the check valve. Re-install or replace.
Parts or fittings in the
pump are worn
– or –
Impellers or Inlet Strainer
is clogged
Install a pressure gauge near the
discharge port, start the pump, and
gradually close the discharge valve.
Read the pressure at shutoff. (Do
not allow the pump to operate for
an extended period at shutoff.)
The water level in the well
may be too low to supply
the flow desired
– or –
Collapsed well
Check the drawdown in the well
while the pump is operating.
Pull pump and inspect. Replace as necessary.
There are leaks in the
fittings or piping
Pull the pump out of the well. The suction pipe, valves, and fittings must be
made tight. Repair any leaks and retighten all
loose fittings.
Pump Does Not Produce Enough Flow (GPM)
Broken shaft or coupling
Check to make sure the electrical
connections in the control panel are
correct.
If the pumping water level (including drawdown)
is not AT LEAST 3 FEET above the pump’s inlet
strainer, either:
1. Lower the pump further down the well.
2. Throttle back the discharge valve to decrease
the flow, thereby reuding drawdown.
Convert the PSI you read on the gauge to Feet
of Head by:
PSI x 2.31 ft/PSI = ______ ft.
Specific Gravity
Add to this number the number of feet
(vertically) from the gauge down to the water’s
pumping level.
Refer to the pump curve for the model you are
working with to determine the shutoff head you
should expect for that model. If that head is
close to the figure you came up with (above),
the pump is probably OK. If not, remove the
pump and inspect impellers, chambers, etc.
11
TROUBLESHOOTING