Great Planes GPMA1165 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes®Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase.
This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the
original cost of the purchased kit. Fur ther, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for
any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product.By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user
accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit
immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number,
e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will
be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION.IT CONT AINS IMPOR T ANT INSTR UCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0186 for GPMA1165 V1.2Entire Contents © Copyright 2006

Champaign, Illinois

[phone], Ext 5

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 43 in [1090 mm]
Wing Area: 237 sq in [15.3 dm2]
Weight: 26 – 32 oz [735 – 905 g]
Wing Loading: 15.8 – 19.4 oz/sq ft [48 – 59 g/dm2]
Length: 31 in [785 mm]
Radio: 4-channel with four micro servos and micro receiver

2

INTRODUCTION ...............................................................2

AMA...................................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3

Radio Equipment .........................................................3

Charger .......................................................................3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................4

Required Hardware & Building Supplies.....................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ......................................4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................5

METRIC CONVERSIONS .................................................5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS............................................5

KIT INSPECTION..............................................................6

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................6

BEFORE Y OU BEGIN .......................................................7

ASSEMBLE THE WING ....................................................7

ASSEMBLE THE T AIL SECTION......................................9

Install the Stabilizer.....................................................9

Build the Pushrods....................................................11

Finish the Tail Section ...............................................11

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE.........................................13

Install the Radio Tray & Wing Joiner Tube.................13

Assemble the Landing Gear......................................14

Install the Landing Gear............................................15

Install the Radio System & Battery ...........................16

FINISH THE MODEL .......................................................17

Attach the Wing Panels.............................................17

Attach the Canopy & Cowl........................................18

Attach the Propeller & Spinner..................................19

Apply the Decals .......................................................19

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .................................19

Check the Control Directions ....................................19

Set the Control Throws..............................................19

Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................20

Balance the Model Laterally ......................................20

PREFLIGHT.....................................................................20

Identify Your Model ....................................................20

Charge the Batteries .................................................21

Balance the Propellers..............................................21

Ground Check...........................................................21

Range Check.............................................................21

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .................................21

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)....................................22

General......................................................................22

Radio Control ............................................................22

CHECK LIST ...................................................................22

FLYING ............................................................................23

Speed Control Set-Up...............................................23

Takeoff.......................................................................23

Flight..........................................................................23

Landing......................................................................23

The Great Planes Lancair ES EP ARF is a quick building
scale park flyer that has everything you need except radio
and servos to get you into the air in about 4 to 6 hours. A
4-channel radio, with f our micro servos and a micro receiv er,
provides aileron control as well as a steerable nose gear.
Fiberglass fuselage, wheel pants, cowl, and wing tips
recreate the unique contours of the Lancair ES as well as
easing the assembly.

Flying the Lancair ES EP ARF is extremely smooth and
predictable. Takeoffs are scale-like with graceful flaring of the
nose as the model generates air speed. Landings allow a soft
touch down on the main wheels first, with the plane slowly
settling back down on the nose wheel as it slows to taxi speeds.
Even with a short 43 inch [1090 mm] wingspan, the Lancair ES
EP ARF demonstrates the steady flight characteristics of larger
models and will surely be an attention-getter at the flying field.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Lancair ES EP ARF visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the Lancair ES EP ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at
AMA clubs.Though joining the AMA provides many benefits,
one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club
field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and
air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts
printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage.Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

AMA

INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS

1.Your Lancair ES EP ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Lancair, if not assembled and operated
correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition and correctly sized components (servos, wheels,
etc.) throughout the building process.

5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights.If you’ re not a member of a club, your local hob by
shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

8.WARNING:The fuselage, cowl, wheel pants and wing tips
included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which
may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never
blow into a part (wheel pant, cowl) to remove fiberglass dust,
as the dust will blow back into y our e y es .Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.

Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

A 4-channel radio system with a micro receiver and four
micro servos are the minimum requirements for the Lancair
EP ES ARF. The radio components can be purchased as
separate items or can be purchased as a package system.
If you already have a Futaba®or Futaba-compatible
transmitter you plan to use with this model, part numbers for
the servos and receiver are provided below:

❏ (4) Futaba S3103 Servo Micro Mini (FUTM0037)
❏ Futaba R114F 4-channel FM micro receiver w/o crystal

(low band – FUTL0442, high band – FUTL0443)

❏ Futaba FM single conversion receiver crystal for R114F

(low band – FUTL62**, high band – FUTL63**)

If you plan to purchase a complete radio system, the Futaba
4YF micro system is packaged with the Futaba R114F and two
S3108 micro servos.You will need to purchase an additional
two micro servos.The order numbers are provided.

❏ Futaba 4YF 4-Channel Micro FM/2 S3108 Servos (FUTJ37**)
❏ (2) Futaba S3108 Servo Micro 7.6 g (FUTM0042)

Since the Lancair ES EP ARF uses dual aileron servos, a
Y-harness will be required to connect the servos together as
well as one 9" [230 mm] servo extension.The order numbers
are provided below:

❏ Futaba 6" Dual Servo Extension J (FUTM4130)
❏ Futaba 9" Servo Extension J (FUTM3910)

The included battery is a 9.6V 1800mAh NiMH pack. A NiMH
compatible charger is required. An economical choice is the
Great Planes ElectriFly™400 DC charger.A Deans male ultra
plug will also be necessary (soldering is required):

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Peak 400 DC 1-10C Peak

Charger (GPMM3001)

❏ Deans 2-Pin Ultra Plug (WSDM3001)

For a more advanced computerized charger, we recommend
the Great Planes Triton™charger. Charge leads are not
included with this model charger, so order numbers for the
correct connector type, wire leads, and banana plugs are
listed below (soldering is required):

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Triton

™

DC Competition Peak

Charger (GPMM3150)

❏ Deans Male Ultra Pigtail (WSDM2013)
❏ Hobbico

®

Banana Plugs (6) (HCAP0310)

Charger

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

3

This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish
the Lancair ES EP ARF. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.

❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6 mm], 5/64" [2 mm]
❏ 1/2 oz.[15 g] Thin Pro

™

CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz.[15 g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ 220-grit Sandpaper (GPMR6185)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Pro

™

30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)

❏ Great Planes Metric Ball Wrench 1.5 mm (GPMR8010)

Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
Lancair ES EP ARF.

❏ 21st Century

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏ Hobbico

®

60 watt soldering iron (HCAR0776)

❏ Hayes Large Clamp 4" (HAYR1106)
❏ Great Planes Precision Z-bend Pliers (GPMR8025)
❏ 4 oz.[113 g] Aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Builder’s Tr iangle Set (HCAR0480)
❏ 36" Metal ruler (HCAR0475)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Hobby Heat

™

Micro Torch II (HCAR0755)

❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700)

❏ AccuThrow

™

Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ Top Flite

®

MonoKote®heat gun (TOPR2000)

• There are two types of screws used in this kit:

• Self-tapping (sheet metal) screws are designated by a
number and a length and are referred to as

self-tapping

screws

. For example 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"].

This is a metric 2.6 mm diameter screw that is 8 mm long.

• Machine screws are designated by a number and a
length and are referred to as

machine screws

. For example

3 x 12 mm [1/8" x 7/16"].

This is a metric 3 x 12 mm machine screw that is

3 mm in diameter and is 12 mm long.

Note: For accuracy, metr ic screws will be written with the
actual metric dimensions first followed by the SAE
equivalent in brackets. All other dimensions provided in the
building instructions will be written in English units first
followed by the metric equivalent in brackets.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified, you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified, it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Photos

and

sketches

are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and motor thrust angles
have been factory-built into this model. However, some
technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Optional Supplies & Tools

Required Hardware & Building Supplies

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

4

Replacement parts for the Great Planes Lancair ES EP ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows. The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at
www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of
the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S ., Canadian or International
dealer.If a hobby shop is not availab le, replacement parts may also
be ordered from Tower Hobbies®at www.towerhobbies.com,
or by calling toll free [phone].

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard

®

number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product
Support by e-mail at [e-mail], or by
telephone at [phone].

Replacement Parts List

Order Number Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support

Full-size plans Not available
GPMA2890 Wing Kit Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2891 Fuse Kit Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2892 Tail Set Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2893 Cowl Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2894 Canopy Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2895 Landing Gear Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2896 Wheel Pants Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMA2897 Spinner Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMG0325 Motor Contact Hobby Supplier
GPMG0225 Gearbox Contact Hobby Supplier

1" = 25.4 mm (conversion factor)

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

mm = Millimeters

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

METRIC CONVERSIONSORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

5

1/64" = .4 mm
1/32" = .8 mm
1/16" = 1.6 mm
3/32" = 2.4 mm

1/8" = 3.2 mm
5/32" = 4.0 mm
3/16" = 4.8 mm

1/4" = 6.4 mm

3/8" = 9.5 mm

1/2" = 12.7 mm

5/8" = 15.9 mm

3/4" = 19.0 mm

1" = 25.4 mm
2" = 50.8 mm
3" = 76.2 mm

6" = 152.4 mm
12" = 304.8 mm
18" = 457.2 mm
21" = 533.4 mm
24" = 609.6 mm
30" = 762.0 mm
36" = 914.4 mm

6

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly ,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.

Great Planes Product Support

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone], ext. 5

Fax:[phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

KIT INSPECTION

Hook & Loop Material
(3) Nose Wire Brackets
3 x 20 mm [1/8" x 1/8"] Machine Screw
3 mm [1/8"] Wheel Collar
2-56 x 1/8" [25 mm] Threaded Rod
3/32" [2.4 mm] Wheel Collars
(2) Anti-Rotation Pins
(14) 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] Self­Tapping Screws
(4) 2.6 x 10 mm [7/64" x 3/8"] Self­Tapping Screws
(5) Screw-Lock Pushrod Connectors

(2) 2.6 x 8mm [7/64" x 5/16"] Spinner
Screws
(3) 4-40 x 1/4" [6 mm] Socket Head Cap
Screws
(2) Landing Gear Straps
(4 pcs) Heat-Shrink Tubing
(4) Main Wheel Retainers
(2) Nose Wheel Retainers
(3) 8-7/8" [225 mm] Pushrod Wires
(2) 1/4" x 1/4" x 12" [6 x 6 x 305 mm]
Balsa Sticks
1800mAh 9.6V NiMH Battery pack

Electronic Speed Control (ESC)
(4) Control Horns w/Backplates
(2) 2-7/8" [73 mm] Aileron Pushrods
1/4" x 9-3/4" [6 x 247 mm] Carbon Wing
Joiner Tube
Radio Tray Brace
Radio Tray
Vertical Radio Tray Support
(2) Main Wheel Pant Straps
Nose Wheel Pant Strap

Kit Contents (not photographed)

KIT CONTENTS

1

4

3

9

10

13

14

14

11

10

2

7

Kit Contents

1. Vertical Stabilizer & Rudder

2. Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevators

3. Fuselage

4. Canopy

5. Nose Gear

6. Nose Wheel

7. Main Landing Gear (L&R)

8. Main Wheels (2)

9. Wheels Pants (3)

10. Wing Panels w/Ailerons (L&R)

11. Cowl

12. Spinner

13. 9x6 Propeller

14. Wing Tips (L&R)

5

6

8

12

❏ 1. Locate the aileron servo bays by holding the wing

panels up to a light source or gently pressing against the

covering looking for the edges of these cutouts .Use a sharp
hobby knife to trim the covering away from the servo bays.

❏ 2. Trim the covering away from the slots in the servo

bay covers.

❏ 3. Cut off three arms from two four-arm servo horns

leaving one of the long arms intact as shown. Attach the
servo horns at a right angle to the ser vos using the screws
included with the servos. Enlarge the outer holes of the
servo horns with a 1/16" [1.6 mm] drill bit.

❏ 4. We recommend gluing the aileron servos to the ser vo

bay covers with medium CA glue. Inser t the ser vos through
the underside of the covers and apply epoxy around each
servo mounting tab to secure them. If you do not wish to
glue the servos in place, you can insert the servos through
the top of the covers and screw them in place using the
hardware included with the servos. You will need to glue
mounting blocks made from scrap hardwood to the
underside of the covers for the servo screws.

ASSEMBLE THE WING

Before you begin assembly, take a moment to inspect the
covering on the wing panels and tail section.Use a heat gun
or covering iron to tighten any wrinkled or loose covering.Be
careful when applying heat around the clear hinge tape
holding the ailerons, elevator, and rudder in place. Excess
heat in these areas could cause the tape to lift.

BEFORE Y OU BEGIN

7

❏ 5. Remove the tape holding the end of the servo wire

draw-strings inside the servo bays. Tie these ends to the
servo connectors and use the string to pull the servo leads
through the wing ribs.

❏ 6.You can either glue the servo bay covers in place or use

eight 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] self-tapping screws. It is
recommended to glue the covers in place for a cleaner look.
However, the servos will be more difficult to replace should it
be necessary in the future. If you use screws, position the
covers onto the wing panels and drill 5/64" [2 mm] holes in
each of the four corners of the covers.Thread a 2.6 x 8 mm
[7/64" x 5/16"] screw into each hole and back it out. Apply a
drop of thin CA glue to the holes and allow it to fully harden.
Secure the covers to the wings with the screws.

❏ 7. Make a mark 7/16" [11 mm] long on each aileron

perpendicular to the aileron hinge and in line with the outer
hole of the servo horn.

❏ 8. Trim the bottom tabs of two control hor ns so that only

5/32" [4 mm] remains.

❏ 9. Use a hobby knife along the marks you made to remove

enough material to accommodate the control horn tabs.Do not
cut all the way through the ailerons.Test fit the control horns
into the slots, being sure the horns fully seat onto the ailerons.
When satisfied with their fit, coat the control horn tabs with
medium CA glue and press them into place.

❏ 10. Double check that the servo horns are per pendicular

to the servos. Fit the Z-bend in the 2-7/8" [73 mm] aileron
pushrod into the outer hole of the servo horn.While holding

the aileron in the neutral position, stick a piece of masking
tape onto the pushrod where it crosses the holes in the
control horn.

8

❏ 11.Remov e the servo horns from the servos.Mak e a Z-bend

at the masking tape of each pushrod. Fit the Z-bends you
just made into the third holes on the control horns and
reattach the servo horns to the servos. Small adjustments
can be made on the pushrods to bring the ailerons to the
neutral position by pinching or expanding the “V”-shaped
bend with pliers.

❏ 12. Glue the anti-rotation pins into the aft holes of the

wing root ribs.

❏ 1. Draw a line 7/16" [11 mm] long just aft of the leading

edge centered on the top of the elevator (the beveled
leading edge of the elevator is the bottom).

❏ 2. Use a hobby knife to cut away the material at the line

for the elev ator control horn.Unlike the ailerons , the ele vator
control horn will pass all the way through the elevator.

❏ 3. Test fit the control horn into the slot by pushing it up

through the bottom of the elevator until it is fully seated.
Press a control horn backplate onto the tab from the top.
This step is just to confirm fit. Do not add any glue until
instructed to do so.

❏ 4.Trim off the portion of the control horn tab that protrudes

beyond the backplate.

❏ 5. Temporarily install the wing panels onto the fuselage

by inserting the 1/4" x 9-3/4" [6 x 247 mm] carbon wing
joiner tube into the fuselage and sliding the wing panels

onto the tube.The anti-rotation pins will fit into mating holes
in the fuselage.

Install the Stabilizer

ASSEMBLE THE T AIL SECTION

9

❏ 6. Align the horizontal stabilizer onto the fuselage by

measuring the distances between the trailing edge wing tips
and making them equal on both sides. Also, center the
stabilizer left and right onto the fuselage and be sure the
stab is positioned as far forward as it will go. Stand back
several feet and look at the model from behind.Confirm that
the wing and stab are parallel. Adjust the area where the
stab sits on the fuse as necessary until they are parallel.The
elevator control horn will fit into the slot at the aft end of the
fuselage.A clamp is extremely useful in this step to hold the
position of the stab onto the fuse.

❏ 7. Trace around the fuselage onto the underside of the

stabilizer with a felt-tip or panel line pen.

❏ 8. Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Cut away the

covering just inside your lines on the underside of the
fuselage. If you use a hobby knife to cut the covering, be
careful not to cut the balsa wood underneath which could
result in compromising the strength of the stabilizer.

❏ 9. Roughen up the portion of the fuselage with sandpaper

where the stabilizer will be installed. Clean the area with

Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate
that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.
The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to
melt a fine cut.Peel off the co v ering.Use a straightedge to
guide the soldering iron at a rate that will just melt the
covering and not burn into the wood. The hotter the
soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut.
Peel off the covering.

Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the stab.The
tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a
fine tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

10

denatured alcohol.Mix up a small batch of 30-minute epoxy and
glue the stabilizer into position using the lines you drew in step

7.Wipe away any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol. Clamp
the stab in place and allow the epoxy to cure undisturbed.

❏ 1.Locate the two 1/4" x 1/4" x 12" [6 x 6 x 305 mm] balsa

sticks.Make a mark 1" [25 mm] from each end on the center
of both sticks. Dr ill a 1/16" [1.6 mm] hole at all four marks.
Use a hobby knife to carve a “V”-shaped channel 1/16" [1.6 mm]
deep from the holes to the ends of the sticks. Put a drop of
thin CA glue into each hole and three drops into each
“V” channel.

❏ 2. Cut the 8-7/8" [225 mm] elevator and rudder

pushrods into the lengths shown in the picture abo v e.Make

a 1/4" [6 mm] long 90° bend at each end of the cuts. One
8-7/8" [225 mm] pushrod wire will remain uncut for the
steerable nose gear.

❏ 3.Fit the ends of the pushrod wires that you bent into the

holes in the balsa sticks, allowing the wire to rest in the “V”
channel as shown.

❏ 4. Slide a 1" [25 mm] piece of heat-shrink tubing onto

each end of the balsa sticks, overlapping the portion of the
pushrod wires resting in the “V” channel. Use a heat gun to
shrink the tubing tight over the sticks. These completed
assemblies will now be referred to as the elevator and
rudder pushrods throughout the rest of the manual.

❏ 1. Insert a pushrod into the fuselage through the canopy

opening with the Z-bend exiting the slot at the back of the
fuselage below the elevator.

❏ 2. Pull out the control horn from the elevator. Connect the

Z-bend in the pushrod to the third hole in the control horn.
Apply a bit of medium CA glue to the base of the control horn
tab and reinsert it into the elevator. Replace the control horn
backplate and add a drop or two of CA to secure it in place.

Finish the Tail Section

Build the Pushrods

11

❏ 3.Mak e a 7/16" [11 mm] long mark 1/8" [3 mm] above the

bottom of the hinge line on the left side of the rudder. The
mark should be just behind the bevel on the leading edge of
the rudder.

❏ 4. As you did with the elevator, use a hobby knife to cut

out balsa from the line equal to the thickness of a control
horn tab.

❏ 5.Test fit a control hor n in the slot and press a backplate

onto the tab. Trim off the excess tab protruding beyond
the backplate. If the backplate interferes with the fin when
the rudder is deflected, mark the backplate where it needs
to be trimmed. Do not glue the control horn to the rudder
until instructed to do do.

❏ 6.Fit the rudder and fin into place by sliding it into the slot

in the fuselage above the stabilizer.The aft end of the fin fits
into the fuselage just behind the elevator control horn. Use
a pen to mark lines where the fin fits into the fuselage as
well as where it sits on top of the stabilizer.

❏ 7.Trim the covering just inside the lines you drew on the

vertical fin and horizontal stabilizer. Use alcohol to wipe
away the lines from the fin and the top of the stab.

❏ 8. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Coat the areas of

wood where you trimmed the covering from the fin as well as
the underside of the fin where it sits on top of the stab.Press
the rudder into place and use clamps to secure it.Wipe a wa y
excess epoxy with denatured alcohol.

❏ 9. Drill two 1/16" [1.6 mm] holes spaced 1/2" [13 mm]

apart on the right side of the fuselage for the rudder pushrod

12

slot.The forward hole should be inline with the leading edge
of the stab and 5/8" [16 mm] below it as shown in the picture.
Use a hobby knife to carve out the material between the
holes to finish the pushrod exit slot. Test fit the rudder
pushrod through the fuselage exiting out of the slot and
make any adjustments to the slot as necessary to prevent
the pushrod from rubbing.

❏ 10. Remove the control horn from the rudder. Tr im off the

outer two holes so that the control horn will clear the elevator.If
you made a mark on the backplate to trim it, do so now.

❏ 11. Slide the rudder pushrod through the fuselage with

the Z-bend exiting out of the slot.Connect the Z-bend in the
pushrod to the outer hole on the control horn. Reinser t the
control horn into the rudder adding a bit of medium CA to the
base of the control horn tab. Press on the control horn
backplate and add a drop of CA to secure it in place.

❏ 1. Glue the carbon wing joiner tube evenly spaced into

the fuselage.Test fit the wings onto the tube before gluing it
to be sure the tube is centered.

❏ 2. Use sandpaper to roughen up the por tion of the wing

joiner rod that is inside of the fuse. Use alcohol to clean the
rod. Glue the radio tray brace to the top of the wing joiner
tube as shown.

❏ 3. Press the tab on the vertical radio tray support into

the slot between the circle cutouts in the radio tray and glue
it into place.

❏ 4.As you did with the wing joiner rod, sand the inside of the

fuselage where the radio tray is going to be installed. Use
alcohol to thoroughly clean the area. Epoxy the radio tray
assembly into the fuselage. The vertical radio tray support
should be positioned just behind the wing leading edge.

Install the Radio Tray & Wing Joiner Tube

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

13

❏ 1.Make a center mark on both sides of the wheel cutouts

on all three wheel pants.

❏ 2. Cut slots at these marks 3/32" [2.4 mm]-wide and 1/4"

[6 mm] deep.

❏ 3.Attach the wheels to the landing gear wires by sliding

on a plastic wheel retainer, wheel, and another wheel
retainer onto each wire.

❏ 4. Inser t the landing gear wires into the slots you cut in

the wheel pants as shown.

❏ 5.Use fine sandpaper to roughen up the area around the

bend in the landing gear wire on the wheel pants as well as
the wheel pant straps. Clean those areas with denatured
alcohol and use medium CA to glue the straps over the
landing gear wires onto the wheel pants.Be sure the landing
gear wires are secured perpendicular to the bottom of the
pants. Add a drop or two of medium or thick CA to the other
end of the landing gear wires where it contacts the pants.Be

sure to make a left and right landing gear.

❏ 6. The nose gear wheel pant is installed the same way,

and should be glued to the left side of the nose gear wire.

Assemble the Landing Gear

14

❏ 1.Fit the main landing gear into the holes on the underside

of the fuselage. The landing gear wires will fit side-by-side
into the molded channel.

❏ 2.Line up the landing gear straps 1/4" [6 mm] from the bend

in the gear wires and mark the holes. Drill the holes with a
5/64" [2 mm] drill bit.Thread a 2.6 x 10 mm [7/64" x 3/8"] self­tapping screw into each hole and back it out.Apply thin CA to
each hole and allow it to fully harden.Secure the straps to the
fuselage using four 2.6 x 10 mm [7/64" x 3/8"] screws.

❏ 3.Thread a nose wire bracket onto a 3 x 20 mm [1/8" x

3/4"] machine screw.Loosely insert the screw into the 3 mm
[1/8"] wheel collar.

❏ 4. Slide a nose wire bracket, wheel collar with screw and

bracket, followed by another nose wire bracket, onto the
nose gear wire.Tighten the screw in the wheel collar tightly
against the flat spot cut into the nose gear wire.

❏ 5. Line the nose gear assembly up to the firewall as

shown. The screw extending out of the wheel collar should
pass freely through the slot cut in the firewall when the nose
gear is rotated. Slide the assembly as close to the center of
the firewall as possible while still leaving a small amount of
clearance between the wheel collar and the side of the
firewall.Hold the brack ets against the firewall face and mark
the hole locations.

Install the Landing Gear

15

❏ 6. Dr ill the marks with a 5/64" [2 mm] drill bit. Thread a

2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] self-tapping screw into each hole
and back it out.Add a few drops of thin CA to each hole and
allow it to harden. Hook the Z-bend of the remaining
pushrod wire into the wire bracket attached to the screw in
the wheel collar. Insert the pushrod through the steering
hole in the firewall and secure the nose gear assembly with
two 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] screws.

❏ 7. Confirm that the nose gear tur ns smoothly within the

wire brackets. Make any adjustments to the slots in the
firewall or the position of the wheel collar on the gear wire
until it does.

❏ 1. Using the hardware provided with the servos, install

the rudder and elevator servos into the precut openings.
Apply a couple drops of thin CA glue to each mounting hole
before installing the servos.The outline for a third servo bay
is provided but not used on this model.

❏ 2.Trim two ar ms from one servo horn and three from the

other as shown.Drill the outer holes in the horns with a 5/64"
[2 mm] drill bit.

❏ 3. Install three screw-lock pushrod connectors into the

outer holes of the servo horns. Loosely thread a 4-40 x 1/4"
[6 mm] socket head cap screw into each connector.

❏ 4.Slide the nose gear pushrod, elev ator pushrod, and rudder

pushrod through the screw-lock pushrod connectors.Install the
servo horns onto the rudder and elevator servos as shown.
Secure the horns with the servo horn screws. Center the
elevator, rudder, and nose gear and tighten the 4-40 x 1/4"
[6 mm] socket head cap screws in the connectors.

❏ 5. Cut the included hook and loop material into two

equal lengths. Make battery straps by overlapping the ends
of the pieces by 1" [25 mm].

❏ 6. Inser t the battery pack in the forward position on the

radio tray. Use the battery straps to secure the battery pack
to the tray by looping straps underneath the tray and
pressing the ends together as shown.Glue the straps to the
underside of the tray with CA glue.

Install the Radio System & Battery

16

❏ 7. Sand the left side of the fuselage above the battery

pack. Clean that area with denatured alcohol. Brush a light
coat of epoxy onto the sanded area. This will provide a
smooth surface for the electronic speed control (ESC) to
adhere to. Connect the motor leads to the red and black
female bullet ends on the ESC. Use a piece of double-sided
tape to secure the ESC on/off switch to the inside of the
fuselage. Be sure that the switch or switch leads do not
interfere with the servos or pushrods.

❏ 8.Repeat this procedure on the other side of the fuselage

for the receiver. Connect the ESC, rudder and elevator
servos, and a dual servo extension for the ailerons to the
receiver and secure it inside the fuselage.

❏ 9.Route the antenna out of the way from the pushrods.It

can be secured on the outside of model. However, for a
clean look, we drilled a hole in the bottom of the fuselage at
the back and ran the antenna out the hole.

❏ 1. Prepare the wing tips by sanding the inside edges of

the tips as well as scuffing up the covering at the ends of the
wing panels. Clean these surfaces with denatured alcohol.

❏ 2. Mix up some 30-minute epoxy and coat a 1/4" [6 mm]-

wide strip around the inside edges of the wing tips. Fit the
wing tips to the ends of the wings with the curves pointing
up and tape them into position while the epoxy cures. Be
sure that the tips do not interfere with the movements of the
ailerons. Excess epoxy can be wiped away with alcohol.

❏ 3. The preferred method of attaching the wings to the

fuselage is to glue them permanently with epoxy.The wings
have also been designed to be removable for ease of
transport if necessary. If you epoxy the wing panels to the
fuselage, thoroughly coat the carbon wing joiner tube as well
as the root ribs on the panels with epoxy, and roughen the
mating area on the fuselage with sandpaper and clean it
with alcohol. Slide the panels in place and tape them to the
fuselage while the epoxy cures.

Note: If you have glued the wing panels to the fuselage , skip
steps #4 and #5.

❏ 4.To bolt the wings to the fuselage, locate the two 2-56 x

1" [25 mm] threaded rods and lightly coat one half of each
rod with epoxy. Before the epoxy cures, thread the rods into
the blind nuts in the wing panels in the location shown.
Leave 1/2" [13 mm] of each rod protruding out of the wings.

❏ 5. Connect an additional servo extension to one of the

aileron servo leads and secure the connection with heat­shrink tubing or tape.The servo extension is necessary if you
are using the Futaba 6" [150 mm] dual servo extension.Since
most micro servo models have shorter 5" [128 mm] servo
leads, they are not long enough to reach the dual servo slots.
If you purchased a standard Y-harness from another
manufacturer , you ma y not need an additional servo extension.

Attach the Wing Panels

FINISH THE MODEL

17

❏ 6. Slide the wing panels onto the wing joiner tube and

push them firmly into place. Loosely thread a 4-40 x 1/4"
[6 mm] SHCS into two 3/32" [2.4 mm] wheel collars.Tighten
the wheel collars onto the threaded rods in the wings
against the fuselage side.

❏ 7. Connect the aileron servo leads to the Y-harness or

dual servo extension.

❏ 1. Trim the canopy along the molded cut lines. Use

sandpaper to smooth the cut edges.

❏ 2.Cut a 1/2" x 1" [13 x 25 mm] piece of clear decal from the

decal sheet and use it to tape the front of the canopy to the
fuselage. Applying the decal piece in this location will better
secure the canopy, but still allow it to open and close easily.

❏ 3. Slide the cowl onto the front of the fuselage and make

a mark where it should be trimmed for the nose gear.

❏ 4.Cut a slot at the mark slightly wider than the nose gear.T est

fit the cowl to the fuselage and adjust the slot as necessary until
the nose gear wire fits in the slot without touching.

❏ 5. While holding the cowl in place with the paint scheme

aligned, drill four evenly spaced 5/64" [2 mm] holes 3/16"
[4.8 mm] from the back edge of the cowl as shown.
Reinforce the holes with thin CA glue.Attach the cowl to the
fuselage with four 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] self-tapping
screws. For a cleaner look, the cowl can be attached to the
fuselage with silicone adhesive.If adhesive is used, be sure
that the cowl is properly secured before each flight.

Note: Silicone adhesive will allow the cowl to be removed in
the future if you need to replace the motor or gears. Only a
couple of dots of adhesive are required to secure the cowl.
Make sure you roughen the area with sandpaper on the fuse
and cowl, then clean it with alcohol.

Attach the Canopy & Cowl

18

❏ 1.Confirm that the set screw holding the prop adapter to

the gearbox shaft is tight using a 1.5 mm [1/16"] allen
wrench. Slide the spinner backplate, propeller, and prop
washer onto the prop adapter. Tighten the assembly with
the 3 x 12 mm [1/8" x 1/2"] propeller machine screw.

❏ 2. Attach the spinner cone to the spinner backplate using

the 2.6 x 8 mm [7/64" x 5/16"] self-tapping spinner screws.

1.Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerpr ints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of
liquid dish soap and warm water–about one teaspoon of soap
per gallon of water.Submerse the decal in the soap and water
and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the decals
have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,
submersing them in soap and water allows accurate positioning
and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water a wa y.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary,
adjust the pushrods in the screw-lock pushrod connectors to
center the control surfaces.

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle

respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered.Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart on page 20.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevator, rudder and ailerons.

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Apply the Decals

Attach the Propeller & Spinner

19

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

4-CHANNEL

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

FULL THROTTLE

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, covering and paint, and the radio system.

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3 mm]-wide tape to accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The balance point should be measured at the
fuselage.The C .G.is located 2" [50 mm] bac k from the leading
edge of the wing at the fuselage.

❏ 2.With the wing attached to the fuselage and the battery

pack installed, place the model upside-down on a Great
Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the balance
point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery

pack and/or receiver must be shifted f orw ard to balance.If the
nose drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the batter y pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft to balance.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: After you have shifted the radio gear,

recheck the C.G.

❏ 5. If you use a different battery pack it will be necessary

to recheck the C.G.

❏ 1.With the wing level, lift the model by the motor propeller

shaft and the bottom of the fuse under the TE of the fin.Do
this several times.

❏ 2.If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means

that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced

will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
identification tag on the back cover page (or on the decal
sheet) and place it on or inside your model.

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

Balance the Model Laterally

This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/4" [6 mm] forward or 1/8" [3 mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G.forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for tak eoff and mak e it more
difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.aft makes the
model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to
become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the
recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not proper ly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Lancair EP has been extensively flown

and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best. Flying
your model at these throws will provide you with the greatest
chance for successful first flights. If, after you have become
accustomed to the way the Lancair EP flies, y ou w ould lik e to
change the throws to suit your taste, that is fine.However , too
much control throw could make the model difficult to control,
so remember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:
ELEVATOR: 3/8" [10 mm] up

3/8" [10 mm] down

RUDDER: 1/2" [13 mm] right

1/2" [13 mm] left

AILERONS: 3/8" [10 mm] up

3/8" [10 mm] down

20

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your tr ansmitter and motor batteries the night
before you go flying, and at other times as recommended b y
the radio manufacturer.

The included 1800mAh NiMH battery pack should be
charged by a NiMH-compatible charger at no more than

1.5A. Compatible chargers available are listed on page 4 of
this manual.

At the 1.5A charge rate, the battery pack should take a little
more than one hour to charge when fully depleted. Rates
less than 1.5A will take longer to completely charge the
pack. The fully charged battery pack voltage should not
exceed 12V.

Always monitor the battery pack during a charge. The
pack may get warm during charging but should not get
hotter than 125°F. If the pack gets too hot, disconnect it
from the charger and allow it to cool.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

After you test the operation of the motor on the model,
inspect the model closely to make sure all screws remained
tight, the hinges are secure, the prop is secure and all
pushrods and connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the ESC and transmitter on, you should be able to walk
at least 100 feet [30 m] away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first.Look f or loose servo connections or
broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor
solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Use safety glasses when running motors.
Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand;the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your f ace and body as w ell as all spectators a wa y from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you run the motor.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt

sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

The motor gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
after operation.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your

radio system state differently, the initial charge on a new
transmitter battery should be done for 15 hours using the
slow-charger that came with the radio system.This will
“condition” the battery so that the next charge may be
done using the fast-charger of your choice. If the initial
charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may not
reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.

Charge the Batteries

21

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the complete Safety
Code refer to

Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or

the Code that came with your AMA license.

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned ev ents, air sho ws,
or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be
airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator .I will giv e right-of-wa y and av oid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models
fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.Note:This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators.Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the

model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.

❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a

strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 4. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 5. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 6. Make sure all control surfaces are secure.
❏ 7. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).

❏ 8. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 9. Make sure all servo arms are secured to the servos

with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 10.Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat-shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.

❏ 11.Make sure any servo extension cords you may have

used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).

❏ 12.Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 13.Tighten the propeller screw and spinner.
❏ 14.Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 15.If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 16. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.

CHECK LIST

Radio Control

General

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

22

The Lancair ES EP ARF is a great-flying model that flies
smoothly and predictably. The Lancair does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.

CAUTION:While setting up and checking the control throws
on your airplane. remove the propeller from the motor.

1. Plug the servo connector from your speed control into
the throttle socket of your receiver.

2. Connect the motor battery to the speed control.

3. Move the throttle stick to idle (towards you).

4. Switch on the transmitter then the speed control.

5. Move the throttle stick to full power (away from you) for

at least 2 seconds.

6. Move the throttle stick back to idle (toward you). The

speed control is now ready to operate.Note: If the motor
does not start as the throttle is advanced, you may need
to reverse the servo throw setting of the throttle.

7. As a safety precaution to prev ent the motor from starting

when the speed control is first switched on, you will
need to move the throttle to full and back to idle every
time the speed control is switched on.

Before you get ready to take off, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds on
the runway. Remember to take off into the wind. When you’re
ready, point the model straight down the runway, then
gradually advance the throttle.As the model gains speed, the
nose will lift off the ground. Gain as much speed as your
runway and flying site will practically allow before gently
applying up elevator, lifting the model into the air. Be smooth
on the elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle
climb to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude.While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Lancair ES EP ARF for the first few
flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level
flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safe
altitude, practice slow flight and execute practice landing
approaches by reducing the throttle to see how the model
handles at slower speeds.Add power to see ho w she climbs
as well. Continue to fly around, executing various
maneuvers and making mental notes (or having your
assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G. changes
may be required to fine tune the model so it flies the wa y you
like. Mind your battery power, but use this first flight to
become familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by k eeping the nose down as
you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the r unway and has lost flying
speed, slowly release up elevator to place the nose on the
ground, regaining steering control.

One final note about flying your model – have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new

Landing

Flight

Takeoff

Speed Control Set-Up

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL

R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such as
a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface

flutter

.
Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an aileron or
elevator) or a flying surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly
vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme
cases, if not detected immediately, flutter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the flying surface to fail, thus
causing loss of control followed by an impending crash. The
best thing to do when flutter is detected is to slow the model
immediately by reducing power, then land as soon as safely
possible.Identify which surface fluttered (so the prob lem may
be resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make cer tain all pushrod
linkages are secure and free of play. If it fluttered once, under
similar circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the
problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter are;
Excessive hinge gap;Not mounting control horns solidly;P oor
fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods caused by
large bends; Excessive free play in servo gears; Insecure
servo mounting; and one of the most prevalent causes of
flutter; Flying an over-powered model at excessive speeds.

FLYING

23

maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such as
on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve your
skills

(though it is never a bad idea!)

, but more importantly so
you do not surprise yourself by impulsively attempting a
maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run out of time,
altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be deliberate, not
impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do a loop, check your
altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating rudder corrections
that will be required to maintain heading), remember to throttle
back at the top, and make certain you are on the desired rates
(high/low rates). A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of
crashing your model just because of poor planning and
impulsive moves.

Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a
safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Make a copy of this identification tag and put it on or
inside your model.