Great Planes GPMA1120 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION.IT CONT AINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ1102 for GPMA1120 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2006

Champaign, Illinois

[phone], Ext 5

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 35.75 in [908mm]
Wing Area: 245 sq in [15.8dm2]
Weight: 10 oz [280g]
Wing Loading: 5.9 oz/sq ft [18g/dm2]
Length: 33 in [840mm]
Radio: 4-channel minimum, 3 micro servos, 7A ESC and micro receiver

2

INTRODUCTION ...............................................................2

AMA...................................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................2

LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE.....................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3

Radio Equipment & Electronics...................................3

Electronic Speed Control (ESC)..................................4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................4

Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES......................................4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................4

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS............................................4

KIT INSPECTION..............................................................5

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................5

ASSEMBLE THE AIRPLANE............................................6

Install the Aileron Servo..............................................6

Install the Wing Panels................................................6

Assemble the Aileron Pushrods..................................7

Install the Wing Struts.................................................8

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer & Rudder ...................9

Install the Tail Servos & Linkages ...............................9

Install the Electronics & Propeller .............................10

Assemble the Landing Gear......................................11

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .................................11

Check the Control Directions ....................................11

Set the Control Throws..............................................11

Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................12

PREFLIGHT.....................................................................12

Identify Your Model ....................................................12

Charge the Batteries .................................................12

Range Check.............................................................12

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)....................................13

CHECK LIST ...................................................................13

FLYING ............................................................................13

Takeoff.......................................................................13

Flight..........................................................................14

Landing......................................................................14

Repair........................................................................14

Thank you for your purchase of the Great Planes ElectriFly

™

FlatOuts J-3 Cub! This stand-off scale Cub can be assembled
in as little as an hour, and the foam construction can be
repaired on site to get you back into the air as quickly as it
takes to top off the battery in your radio.The FlatOuts J-3 Cub
can comfortably fly in a large gymnasium at slow speeds, or fly
with authority outdoors on a day of light, 5 mph or less wind.
And the best features, the economical price and quick build
time of the FlatOuts J-3 Cub, will allow you to fly without the
worry of damage to an expensive or time consuming model.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
FlatOuts J-3 Cub visit the Great Planes web site at

www.greatplanes.com.Open the “Airplanes” link, and then
select the FlatOuts J-3 Cub. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at
AMA clubs.Though joining the AMA provides many benefits,
one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club
field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and
air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts
printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage.Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.

1.Your FlatOuts J-3 Cub should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the FlatOuts J-3 Cub, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

AMA

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

4.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .

5.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

6. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights.If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobb y
shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with

this battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!

• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a
NiCd/NiMH peak charger!

• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.

• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.

• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.

• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.

• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.

• NEVER trickle charge.

• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed
150° F [65° C].

• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any wa y or
puncture cells.

• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.

• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.

• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

This is a partial list of items required to finish the FlatOuts J-3
Cub that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

The FlatOuts J-3 Cub requires a 4-channel or greater
transmitter, a micro receiver, and three micro servos (9g or
less). If you already have a transmitter you are going to use
to fly the FlatOuts J-3 Cub, you can get the receiver and
servos separately:

• Futaba®R114F 4-channel FM micro receiver w/o crystal
(low band – FUTL0442, high band – FUTL0443)

• Futaba FM single conversion receiver crystal for R114F
(low band – FUTL62**, high band – FUTL63**)

• Futaba S3110 micro servo 7.7g (FUTM0046)

Or, y ou can purchase a complete system (including transmitter)
specially packaged for park flyers. If purchasing a complete
system, the Futaba 4YF Skysport FM radio is suitable.It comes
with a micro receiver and two Futaba S3108 micro servos.One
additional servo will need to be purchased. The transmitter is
also equipped with a rechargeable NiCd battery pack:

• Futaba 4YF Skysport FM radio system including
transmitter, receiver, and servos (FUTJ37**)

• Futaba S3110 micro servo 7.7g (FUTM0046) or S3114
micro servo (FUTM0414)

A 11.1V 350mAh or 11.1V 640mAh LiPo battery pack and
suitable charger are also required. Although there are
different battery packs and chargers available that will work
with the FlatOuts J-3 Cub, the economical choices
recommended by Great Planes are:

• Great Planes 11.1V 350mAh 3S 20C discharge 2-pin

LiPo (GPMP0801) (Note:When using with the C-7 Nano
ESC, adapter required – GPMM3135)

• Great Planes 11.1V 640mAh 3S 15C discharge micro

LiPo (GPMP0805)

• Great Planes 11.1V 640mAh 20C discharge with

balance LiPo (GPMP0601) (Note: This requires the
Equinox™Cell Balancer – GPMM3160)

A suitable LiPo charger is required:

• Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC only 4 output LiPo

charger (GPMM3015)

or

• Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2™DC Peak

Charger (GPMM3153)

Radio Equipment & Electronics

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

LITHIUM BATTER Y HANDLING & USAGE

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

An Electronic Speed Control (ESC) with Battery Eliminator
Circuitry (BEC) is required. The BEC allows both the motor
and the radio system to be powered by the same battery
(thus eliminating the on-board receiver battery). The Great
Planes ElectriFly C-7 Nano Brushed ESC (GPMM2005)
is recommended.

❏ Great Planes Pro

™

Foam Safe CA- Thick Glue

1 oz. (GPMR6072)

❏ Great Planes Pro Foam Safe CA+ Medium Glue

1 oz. (GPMR6069)

❏ Drill bits: 3/64" [1.2mm] or #60 and 1/8" [3mm]
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ Hobbico

®

soldering iron 60 Watt (HCAR0776)

Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
FlatOuts J-3 Cub.

❏ Great Planes Pro Foam Safe CA Aerosol Activator

4 oz. [114g] (GPMR6034)

❏ 2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16" Collet w/six bits (HCAR0696)
❏ Long nose pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0625)
❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Hobbico Flexible 18" Ruler Stainless Steel (HCAR0460)

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, and then slightly modify
or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

•

Photos

and

sketches

are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

Replacement parts for the Great Planes FlatOuts J-3 Cub are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows.The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at
www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom
of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If order ing via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard

®

number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product
Support by e-mail at [e-mail],
or by telephone at [phone].

Replacement Parts List

GPMG0420 ............180 Motor & 5:1 Ratio Gearbox

GPMG0292 ............180 Motor with Leads & Connectors

GPMG0182 ............Gearbox with Spur Gear Shaft 5:1 Ratio

GPMG0863 ............Spur Gear Shaft

GPMQ4619 ............Prop Saver O-ring

GPMQ4620 ............Prop Saver

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

LG = Landing Gear

" = Inches

mm = Millimeters

ESC = Electronic Speed Control

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Electronic Speed Control (ESC)

4

5

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When repor ting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.

Great Planes Product Support:

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone], ext. 5

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

KIT INSPECTION

1. Left Wing Panel

2. Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevators (L&R)

3. Right Wing Panel

4. Double-sided Servo Tape

5. Hook & Loop Material

6. Vertical Fin & Rudder

7. Propeller (9" x 4.5" S)

8. Fuselage

9. Prop Saver O-rings (2)

10. Prop Saver

11. Wheels (2)

12. Landing Gear

Kit Contents

KIT CONTENTS

1

11

12

4

3

7

5

2

8

6

9

10

IMPORTANT NOTE: As stated in the

Additional Items

Required

section you must use a Foam Safe CA glue in the

assembly process.Do not attempt to assemble this plane

with standard CA. It will melt the foam!

❏ 1. Remove two of the arms so that it matches the horn

shown on the right. Each of the arms should have two holes.
Enlarge the outer holes in the remaining servo arms with a
3/64" [1.2mm] drill bit.Note: The purpose for this configuration
is to provide mechanical differential to the ailerons.In our test
flying we determined the plane performs best with some
differential in the ailerons.

❏ 2. Connect the aileron servo to the receiver. Use your

ESC or a receiver pack to power the receiver. Turn on your
transmitter and center the aileron servo. Do not skip this
step as the aileron servo must be installed into the fuselage
with the servo horn installed as shown.

❏ 3. Cut a slot in the fuselage on the right side large

enough to accommodate the servo connector in the
locations shown in the picture. Their exact placement will
depend on where the servo lead wires exit out of the aileron
servo being used.

❏ 4. Position the servo in the fuselage making sure that the

servo arm is positioned as shown. Push the aileron downward
into the servo bay until it is firmly seated in position.Center the
servo in the fuselage. Cut the foam as needed to
accommodate the servo arm.

❏ 5. Apply a couple drops of thick, foam safe CA glue to

each servo case tab, securing the servo to the fuselage.Add
a couple drops of foam safe CA glue near the base of the
servo case as well. It does not require much CA glue to
secure the servo to the fuselage. Excess glue will simply
make it difficult to remove the servo in the future.

❏ 1. Locate the left and right wing panels. Place them

upside-down on the bench.Apply a bead of thick foam saf e CA

Install the Wing Panels

Install the Aileron Servo

ASSEMBLE THE AIRPLANE

6

along the edge of the wing. Press the two halves of the wing
together until the glue has hardened. Fill any gaps in the wing
joint with thick foam saf e CA and harden it with CA accelerator .

❏ 2. Apply the included wing joining tape to the bottom

and the top of the wing at the wing joint. Press the tape
firmly to the surface of the wing.

❏ 1. Enlarge the outer holes of the control horns with a

3/64" [1.2mm] drill bit. Apply a couple drops of CA glue to
the underside of the control horn backplates. Push the
control horn tabs through the slots in the ailerons as shown.

❏ 2. Press the control horn backplates onto the tabs to

secure the control horns to the ailerons. Glue the
backplates to the control horn tabs with a drop of CA.

❏ 3. Measure outward 1/2" [13mm] on either side of the

wing joint. Lightly sand the tape and the foam to scuff it
slightly, giving a better gluing surface for joining the wing to
the fuselage.

❏ 4. Center the wing with the top of the fuselage. Glue the

wing to the top of the fuselage with medium or thick foam
safe CA glue making sure that the wing is perpendicular to
the sides of the fuselage.

❏ 5. Locate the four 2-1/4" [57mm] pushrods and hook the

Z-bends into the outer holes of the servo horn and the outer

Assemble the Aileron Pushrods

7

holes in the control horns. Slide a piece of 1" [25mm] heat­shrink tubing onto one of the pushrods for each wing panel.

❏ 4. Center the aileron. Overlap the pushrod ends and join

them with the heat-shrink tubing.CAREFULLY use a soldering
iron to shrink the tubing around the pushrods. Keep the iron
away from the foam and move it quickly back and forth across
the heat-shrink tubing until the pushrods are joined together
tightly.We do not suggest using a heat gun or micro torch
to shrink the tubing as this will melt the foam that is close to
the pushrods.When satisfied, apply a couple drops of CA glue
to each end of the heat-shrink tubing.

❏❏1. From the bottom of the fuselage measure up 5/16"

[8mm] and make a mark.Measure forward from the mark 1/4"
[6mm] and make another mark.On each of these marks drill a
1/8" [3mm] hole at a 30° upward angle to the fuselage.Do not
use a electric drill to make the holes.Just twist the drill bit using
your fingers.You do not want to drill all the way through the
fuselage. Just drill in far enough so the drill bit just makes
contact with the skin on the opposite side of the fuselage.

❏❏2. On the inside of the wing rib measur ing from the

front of the rib, make a mark 1-1/4" [32mm] back from the

front of the rib. Measure back 2-1/8" [54mm] from that mark
and make another mark. Hand drill a 1/8" [3mm] hole on
each of the marks using the same technique used for the
other holes. When drilling these two holes do not drill
through the top of the wing and be sure the hole is
through the wing rib but as close to the bottom of the wing
as possible.

❏❏3. Install a strut into the holes. DO NOT glue them in

place at this time.

❏ 4. Repeat steps 1 to 3 for the other side of the fuselage.

Note: When drilling the holes in the opposite side of the
fuselage, move the location of the two holes forward or back
from the dimensions specified so the struts do not conflict
with the struts on the opposite side of the fuselage.

❏ 5. Look at the wing to be sure the wing is straight, without

any twist.The wing should be flat without any dihedral.When
you are satisfied with the wing, glue the struts in place with
medium foam safe CA.Be sure to get a good bond between
the struts, the wing and the fuselage. The struts are a
functional, structural part of the construction of the plane
and it is important that they are secured well.

Install the Wing Struts

8

❏ 1. Draw a line on the center of the top and bottom of the

horizontal stabilizer. The top of stab has the control horn

slot on the right side of the elevator.

❏ 2. Lightly scuff the surface of the stab using sandpaper 5/64"

[2mm] on both sides of the line drawn in step 1.Wipe the area
with denatured alcohol.Do this on both the top and bottom of the
stab.Position the stab onto the back of the fuselage.Using the
line drawn in step 1 as a reference, position the stab making
sure the stab is parallel to the wing.When you are satisfied with
the fit, glue the stab to the fuselage.

❏ 3. Glue the ver tical stabilizer/rudder into the slot in the

fuselage and the top of the horizontal stabilizer. Hold it in
place until the glue hardens.

❏ 1. Glue the rudder and elevator servos into the cutout in

the fuselage with the output splines both facing the front of
the plane. The ser vo in the bottom of the slot is the rudder
servo and should be installed with the splines on the left
side of the fuselage. The servo in the top of the slot is the
elevator servo and should be installed with the splines on
the right side of the fuselage. Both ser vo leads should exit
out of the right side. There is a small circle cutout in the
fuselage to allow the lead from the elevator servo to get
access to the right side of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Using the same technique used for the ailerons, install

a control horn onto the left side of the rudder and one on the
bottom of the right elevator half.

❏ 3. Use your radio system to center the elevator and

rudder servos. Cut three arms from two four-arm servo
horns and install them onto the elevator and rudder servos,
both pointing downward. Enlarge the outer holes of the
servo horns with a 3/64" [1.2mm] drill bit. Enlarge the inner
hole of the control horns (closest to the elevator and rudder)
with the same size bit.

Install the Tail Servos & Linkages

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer & Rudder

9

❏ 4. Hook the remaining two 2-1/4" [57mm] pushrods into

the outer hole of the elevator and rudder control horns.
Connect the 16-1/4" [413mm] pushrods onto the inner hole
of the elevator and rudder servo horns. Slide a pushrod
support onto the elevator and rudder pushrods. Join the
pushrod wires together with a 1" [25mm] piece of heat­shrink tubing while centering the control surfaces. Apply a
drop of CA to the ends of the heat-shrink tubing after
shrinking the tubing with a soldering iron.

❏ 5. Position the pushrod supports in the middle of the

pushrods and lightly press them into the fuselage creating
indentations in the foam. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut a
hole in the foam at the indentations you made. Inser t the
pushrod supports into the holes and glue them in place.

❏ 1. Determine the location of the receiver.Wipe the area with

denatured alcohol only once or twice. Excessive wiping will
remove the paint. Cut a piece of double-sided tape to fit your
receiver and stick it to the underside. Connect the aileron,
rudder, and elevator servos to the receiver. Peel the backing
from the double-sided tape and secure the receiver to the
fuselage in the location shown in the picture. For a tidy
installation you may wish to tape the servo leads to the fuselage.

❏ 2.Tape the receiv er antenna to the bottom of the fuselage

longeron as shown. Be sure that none of the antenna is
exposed on the underside of the airplane, as it could
become damaged on landing.

❏ 3. Connect the motor leads from the ESC to the leads

coming from the motor.Plug the ESC into the receiver.Wipe
the area where the ESC will be installed with alcohol as
described in step 1. Secure the ESC to the fuselage with
double-sided tape.

❏ 4.Wipe the area where the hook and loop material will be

installed as shown with alcohol as described in step 1.Apply
the “hook” side of the hook and loop material to the fuse.

❏ 5.The “loop”side of the hook and loop material should be

applied to your battery.

❏ 6. Attach the prop saver by tightening the two screws

against the flat spots on the prop shaft.

Install the Electronics & Propeller

10

❏ 7. Loop the prop saver O-ring around one of the screws

and over the prop hub .Hook the O-ring onto the other screw
to secure the propeller to the prop saver. Long nose pliers
may make it easier to stretch the O-ring onto the screws.

Note:The landing gear is designed for display purposes, not
for use in flight. For this reason assembling the landing

gear is optional.

❏ 1.Install the wheels onto the axle and hold them in place

with the black plastic wheel retainers.

❏ 2. Slide the landing gear onto the fuselage. Hold it in

place by sliding a T-pin through the bottom of the landing
gear and into the fuselage.

❏ 1. T urn on the transmitter and receiv er and center the trims.
❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered.If the lengths of
the pushrods need to be adjusted to center the control
surfaces, break the glue bond at the ends of the heat-shrink
tubing and make your adjustments. Be sure to re-glue the
ends of the heat-shrink tubing to the pushrod wires when
you are satisfied.

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle

respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered.

Use a ruler to accurately measure and set the control throw
of each control surface as indicated in the chart that follows.
If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend
setting the throws at the low rate setting.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 1-1/4" [32mm] up 1" [25mm] up

1-1/4" [32mm] down 1 " [25mm] down

RUDDER: 1-1/4" [32mm] r ight 1" [25mm] right

1-1/4" [32mm] left 1" [25mm] left

AILERONS: (Only One Rate) 1/2" [13mm] up

3/16" [4.8mm] down

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Assemble the Landing Gear

11

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the battery , receiver
and ESC.

❏ 1.Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 2-1/2" [64mm] back from the
LE of the wing at the fuselage.

❏ 2.With all parts of the model installed (ready to fly), place

the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it at the balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery

pack must be shifted forw ard to balance .If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the batter y pack must be shifted
back to balance. This model is ver y weight sensitive. Do not
add any weight to achieve the suggested balance point.
Instead, shift the battery pack forward or aft to alter the C.G.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you
fly somewhere on your own, y ou should always ha ve your name,
address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your
model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
sanctioned flying events .Fill out the identification tag on page 14
and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your tr ansmitter and motor batteries the night
before you go flying, and at other times as recommended b y
the manufacturer.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first.Look for loose servo connections or
broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor
solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Range Check

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your

radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter batteries should be done for 15 hours using
the slow-charger that came with the radio system.This
will “condition” the batter ies so that the next charge may
be done using the fast-charger of your choice.If the initial
charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may not
reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/4" [6mm] forward or 3/8" [9.5mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for tak eoff and mak e it more
difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.aft makes the
model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to
become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the
recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not proper ly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The FlatOuts J-3 Cub has been extensively

flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best.
Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the
greatest chance for successful first flights. If, after you have
become accustomed to the way the FlatOuts J-3 Cub flies,
you would like to change the throws to suit your taste, that is
fine. However, too much control throw could make the model
difficult to control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

12

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the complete Safety
Code refer to

Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or

the Code that came with your AMA license.

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator .I will give right-of-wa y and av oid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models
fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators.Only personnel involv ed with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the F ederal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the

model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.

❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted to the fuselage.

❏ 3. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 4. Check the operation of the motor and gearbox prior to

each flight.

❏ 5. Make sure that all servo arms are secured to the

servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 6. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 7. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 8. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.
❏ 9. Confirm that the hinge tape is proper ly secured.

The FlatOuts J-3 Cub is a good flying indoor model.
However, it is not a trainer. Flying the airplane requires the
use of the ailerons, elevator and rudder. If you are not
proficient with using the rudder, it is recommended that you
practice flying the model outdoors in a 1 to 2 mph wind
before taking it into a confined indoor flying site.

For your first flight you may wish to have someone launch
the airplane so that you can concentrate on trimming it.After
the airplane is properly trimmed, you should be able to
easily hand launch the plane and fly the plane yourself.To
hand launch, apply full power and gently toss the plane into
the air.

Takeoff

FLYING

During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.

CHECK LIST

Radio Control

General

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

13

The FlatOuts J-3 Cub can fly fast or slow depending on how
you choose to fly it. For slow flight you will want to fly in a
“High Alpha” or slightly nose high attitude using the power of
the motor to drag it through the sky. You can achieve high
alpha flight more easily flying at an aft C.G.When flying the
FlatOuts J-3 Cub you will find that you will use the rudder for
most all of the turning of the airplane. The ailerons will be
used primarily to level the wings.

Landings are best completed by making your approach with
the airplane in a nose high attitude and “dragging” the
airplane to the ground.

Damage to your plane is inevitable when flying indoors.
However, the simplicity of this model allows it to be repaired
quickly at the flying site.Be sure to put some thick f oam-safe CA
glue and CA activator in your field box. You will be able to be
back in flight in a matter of minutes should repair be necessary.

Make a copy of this identification tag and put it on or
inside your model.

ElectriFly™FlatOuts™HellCat and Zero

Enjoy solo sport flying or exciting combat with another flat
fighter – indoors or out! Made of lightweight, precolored
foam, the FlatOuts Hellcat and Zero indoor ARF models
demand little time, effort or expense – and they’re a perfect
way to use your .40 glow trainer experience to learn indoor
piloting skills. Both have a low parts count and factory­applied trim scheme, so you can have your Hellcat or Zero
flight-ready in as little as 1 to 2 hours. Precut slots in the
foam panels are ready for easy installation of linkages and
radio gear. The wing of each has a Jedelsky-type airfoil
design to improve lift and slow flight characteristics. It also
incorporates a round carbon-fiber spar to keep weight low
and increase strength. Both models include prop, prop
saver/adapter, streamers, and factory-installed motor and
gearbox. Hellcat – GPMA1121, Zero – GPMA1122

ElectriFly Reactor™3D EP ARF

With its generous wingspan, the Reactor 3D electric ARF is
easy to handle and track indoors or out.The wing’s ultra-thin
airfoil allows radical attitude changes and gentle handling on
approach. Oversized ailerons, adjustable pushrods and
short, direct linkages combine for crisp, powerful response.
The structure is factory-built from interlocking, laser-cut
balsa parts, with covering already applied, and the
fiberglass cowl and plastic wheel pants are painted to
match. Magnetic “latches” on the cowl and battery hatch
eliminate the need for screw fasteners and offer clean looks

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE

FROM GREAT PLANES

Repair

Landing

Flight

14

and improved aerodynamics. Unlike most electrics, the
Reactor 3D ARF was designed for in-runner or out-runner
motors and includes mounts for both. GPMA1540

ElectriFly Y ard Stik™ARF

No need to worry about the weather – with a Yard Stik,
anytime is flying time! It flies equally well in a park, a field or
a large, wide-open building, and flies at the pace of a brisk
walk. Assembly is quick (less than an hour) and easy. The
included 280 motor, prop and 3.5:1 gearbo x simply slide into
place on the boom fuselage. The wing halves and tail are
balsa, prebuilt and factory-covered in a film that contrasts
black and white Maltese Crosses against a transparent red
background. The boom and the wing’s leading and trailing
edges are made of a carbon-fiber composite for strength,
rigidity and weight savings.Nylon in the wheels and pod add
to ease and style, but virtually nothing to the Yard Stik’s 11
to 12 oz. all-up weight. GPMA1100

ElectriFly C-7 Nano Brushed ESC

The compact, easy-to-use C-7 Nano ESC is LiPo/NiCd/NiMH
compatible and offers BEC, fully proportional forward, factory­installed connectors, “Saf e Start”system and low voltage cut-off,
plus audible tones for easy set-up.GPMM2005

Futaba®4YF SkySport FM Radio

With its two 0.27 oz [7.7g] S3110 micro servos, the 4YF FM
is an ideal system for the FlatOuts J-3 Cub. In addition to
servo reversing and trims, the 4YF also includes an R114F

single-conversion receiver, charger, battery LEDs, and
sticks with length and tension adjustments. One additional
S3110 servo will be required. FUTJ37**

ElectriFly PolyCharge4

™

For convenience with multiple LiPo packs, there’s the DC
PolyCharge4. Each of its four independent outputs can
charge a one-to-four cell Lithium-Polymer pack. It’s ideal if
you don’t have the time for one-at-a-time charging – and
don’t want the expense and hassle of multiple chargers.
Each output can handle packs from 300 to 3000mAh. Set
the capacity, and PolyCharge4 will automatically set the
charge rate to get you started – and use light and sound
cues to tell you when your pack is done. GPMM3015

ElectriFly Triton™2 DC Computerized Peak Charger,
Discharger & Cycler

Like the popular original Triton charger, the Triton2 offers easy
programming. But the adjustable charge current has been
increased from 5.0A maximum to 7.0A, and the Triton2 can
handle LiPo packs with up to 5 cells in series. A cool blue
backlight on the 2 x 16 LCD screen makes for easier reading
in any conditions, and the rotating dial has been raised for
enhanced feel and more precise fingertip control. The Triton2
is more versatile too: you get alligator clips that mate onto the
banana plugs, for quick connection to 12V batteries or power
supplies.You’ll still be able to charge 1 to 4 cell lithium-ion and
lithium-polymer batteries, and peak 1 to 24 cell NiCd and
NiMH packs at rates you set to peak detection values you
choose – before discharging them at custom rates and then
repeating the cycle up to 10 times. GPMM3153

15

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased: _________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG