The Christen Eagle name is used by Hobbico®, Inc. under license from Aviat Aircraft, Inc.
The Christen Eagle name is used by Hobbico, Inc. under license from Aviat Aircraft, Inc
Length:39.5 in
ength
Radio:
Radio:
Weight:
2
Wing
Loading:
5.75– 6.25 lb
[2610– 2830 g]
30– 33 oz/ft
[92– 101 g/dm2]
2
Engine:
.5 in
[1005mm]
100 5mm
4-Channel minimum with
4-Channel minimum with4–7 servos and
– 7 servos and
standard size receiver
tandard size r
.46 – .55 cu in [7.5 – 9cc] two-stroke
.72 cu in [12cc] four-stroke
RimFire
brushless outrunner motor
™
.55 (42-60-480)
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
Congratulations on your purchase of the Great Planes
Christen Eagle .46 ARF! The highly popular kit sport plane,
first released in 1978, was originally produced as a model
by Great Planes in 1/3 scale size. The popularity of the 1/3
scale led us to develop a smaller .46 size Eagle for those
modelers who prefer to fly smaller planes.
The Christen Eagle has all the great flying characteristics
of its larger counterpart that helped make the 1/3 scale
successful. In addition, a brushless power system option
is detailed in this manual and accommodations have been
provided in the fuselage structure for electric components.
A wingspan of only 42.5" [1080mm] allows the plane to be
transported fully assembled with ease. If you do need to
remove the wings, they disconnect from the fuselage quickly
by removing four screws, two wing bolts, and sliding the
interplane struts out of their slots.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to
the Great Planes Christen Eagle .46 ARF visit the Great
Planes web site at greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes”
link, then select the Christen Eagle .46 ARF. If there is new
technical information or changes to this model a “tech notice”
box will appear in the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
Academy of Model Aeronautics: If you are not already a
member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership provides liability
insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests
and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model
Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!!
Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the
radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near fullscale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS… FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Your Christen Eagle .46 ARF should not be considered
a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that
functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its
performance capabilities, the Eagle, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
2
Page 3
2. You must assemble the model according to the instructions.
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an
unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may
differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written
instructions should be considered as correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.
5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components
so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in
the air.
6. You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to ensure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.
7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get
the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
9. WARNING: The cowl, wheel pants, and landing gear
included in this kit are made of fiberglass, the fibers of which
may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation. Never
blow into a part to remove fiberglass dust, as the dust will
blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety goggles, a
particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding, drilling and
sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and the work
area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and fl yability of your fi nished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions
to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Christen
Eagle .46 ARF that may require planning or decision making
before starting to build. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses.
Radio Equipment
The Eagle requires a minimum 4-channel radio system with
two 44 oz.-in. [3.2 kg-cm] minimum standard sized servos.
Two micro servos are required for the ailerons in the bottom
wing. Two more micro servos are required if you plan to
have the top wing ailerons controlled by their own dedicated
servos. If you are installing a glow engine, an additional
standard servo is required for the throttle.
Two 12" [305mm] servo extensions are required for the bottom
wing aileron servos. If you plan to install aileron servos in the
top wing, you will need four more 12" [305mm] servo extensions
for a total of six. If you are using a radio system that does not
support mixing functions, a Y-harness (dual servo extension)
will also be required to connect the bottom aileron servos to
the receiver. If you have installed servos in the top wing, two
additional Y-harnesses will also be needed for a total of three. A
6" [152mm] servo extension is needed for the receiver pack if
you plan to install a brushless motor.
Recommended part numbers for the radio components are
provided below:
The recommended engine/motor size for the Eagle is a .46-.55
cu in [7.5-9 cc] two-stroke engine, .72 cu in [12cc] four-stroke
engine, or a RimFire .55 (42-60-480) brushless outrunner motor.
Engine and motor order numbers are provided below:
®
O.S.
❏
❏
❏
❏
If using the recommended brushless motor, a 60A brushless
ESC and motor mount are required:
❏
❏
3
.46AX ABL w/Muffler (OSMG0547)
®
O.S.
.55AX ABL w/Muffler (OSMG0556)
®
O.S.
.72FS-a Ringed 4-stroke (OSMG0877)
Great Planes RimFire .55 (42-60-480) Outrunner
Brushless (GPMG4715)
Great Planes Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC High Volt
(GPMM1850)
Great Planes Brushless Motor Mount Medium (GPMG1255)
Page 4
Propeller
If you are installing a glow engine, choose a prop based
on the engine manufacturer’s recommendation. If you are
installing the recommended RimFire brushless motor, we
suggest a 13x10E APC propeller.
APC 13x10 Electric Propeller (APCQ4140)
❏
Batteries and Charger
For a brushless motor installation, two 3350mAh 11.1V
Lithium Polymer battery packs connected in series are
recommended. Order numbers for the battery packs and
series connector are provided below:
Great Planes LiPo 3350mAh 11.1V 25C Discharge w/
❏
Balance (GPMP0541)
Great Planes Series Deans
❏
A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery pack listed above:
Great Planes ElectriFly
❏
1-5 (GPMM3160)
A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™ is designed for LiPo packs only, but is able
to charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™ charger will only charge one pack at a time, but is
capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and Pb acid batteries.
Order numbers for both are provided below:
Great Planes PolyCharge4
❏
Charger (GPMM3015) -OR- Great Planes ElectriFly
Triton2 DC Comp Peak Charger (GPMM3153)
®
U 2 to 1 Adapter (GPMM3143)
®
Equinox™ LiPo Cell Balancer
™
DC Only 4 Output LiPo
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
Hardware and Accessories
This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish
the Christen Eagle .46 ARF. Order numbers are provided in
parentheses:
R/C foam rubber 1/4" [6mm] (HCAQ1000)
❏
3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)
❏
(glow engine only)
Great Planes Tap & Drill Set 6-32 (GPMR8102) (Glow
❏
engine installation only)
Tap handle (GPMR8120) (Glow engine installation only)
❏
Dead Center
❏
Rotary tool with cutting bit
❏
Revell
❏
(RMXR6900)
Top Flite
❏
Top Flite Hot Sock
❏
Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏
T-pins
❏
Household oil
❏
Ruler or measuring tape
❏
™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)
®
Premium Soft Handle Knife w/Blades (5)
®
MonoKote® sealing iron (TOPR2100)
™
iron cover (TOPR2175)
Optional Supplies and Tools
Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
Christen Eagle .46 ARF:
Great Planes Pro Epoxy 6-Minute Formula 4 oz
❏
(GPMR6042)
1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
❏
2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏
4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
❏
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏
CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏
Epoxy brushes 6, (GPMR8060)
❏
Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏
Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏
Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏
Harry Higley’s 3/16" Extended Drill Bit (HIGR1020)
A building stand or cradle comes in handy during the build.
We use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for all our
projects in R&D, and it can be seen in pictures throughout
this manual.
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Christen Eagle are available using
the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List that follows.
The fastest, most economical service can be provided by
your hobby dealer or mail-order company.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Great Planes web site
at greatplanes.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the
bottom of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services
by calling (217) 398-0007, or fax at (217) 398-7721, but full
retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply.
Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax.
If ordering via fax, include a Visa
and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
®
or MasterCard® number
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
• When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it means
that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, and then slightly modify or custom
fit the part as necessary for the best fit.
• Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
• Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
•Photos and sketches are placed before the step they refer
to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps to get
another view of the same parts.
• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.” Due
to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no effect
on the way your model will fly, please expect slight deviations
between your model and the published values.
3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact
Product Support by telephone at (217) 398-8970, or by
e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.com.
Fuselage
Top Wing
Bottom Wing
Tail Set
Hatch
Cowl
Cabanes
Struts
Wheel Pants
Landing Gear
Decals
Spinner
Landing Gear Fairings
Full-size plans are not available.
You can download a copy of this
manual at www.greatplanes.com.
5
Page 6
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the
Kit Contents list.
Great Planes Product Support:
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
KIT CONTENTS
1
3
4
5
17
1. Cowl
2. Fuselage
3. Spinner
4. Engine Mount
5. Main Landing Gear
6. Main Wheels
6
7
8
2
9
15
16
7. Landing Gear Fairings
8. Wheel Pants
9. Belly Pan
10. Fuel Tank
11. Horizontal Stabilizer
12. Tail Wheel Assembly
10
12
11
13
14
13. Vertical Fin
14. Interplane Struts
15. Bottom Wing
16. Top Wing
17. Cabane Struts
6
Page 7
PREPARATIONS
1. If you have not done so already, remove the major
❏
parts of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any
parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at
the address or telephone number listed in the “Kit Inspection”
section on the opposite page.
2. Remove the tape and separate all the control surfaces
❏
if not pre-hinged. Use a covering iron with a covering sock
on high heat to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply
pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the
covering to the wood.
CUT OFF UNUSED ARMS
2. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for
❏ ❏
each aileron servo. Enlarge the outer hole of each remaining
arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Note: Servos in the top wing are optional. The installation
of the servos is the same procedure for the top and bottom
wings. The top wing is shown in the following steps. The
same procedure should be used to install the servos into the
bottom wing.
1. If you plan to install servos into the top wing, trim the
❏
covering from the servo arm slots in the servo hatch covers
using a sharp hobby knife. If you plan to connect the upper
and lower ailerons with pushrods and have all four ailerons
controlled by the two servos in the bottom wing, then do
not trim the covering from the top wing hatch covers. Skip
to step #9. After step #9, complete the bottom wing servo
installation as described in step #14.
3. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo extension to each
❏ ❏
aileron servo and secure the connector using tape or heat
shrink tubing (not included). Center the servos with your radio
system and install the servo arms to the servos perpendicular
to the servo cases as shown. Be sure to reinstall the servo
arm screws into the servos. Install the rubber grommets and
eyelets onto the servo mounting tabs.
4. Position the servos onto the aileron servo hatch
❏ ❏
covers with the servo arms centered in the openings. Place
an aileron servo mounting block behind each servo mounting
tab and mark their locations onto the hatch covers.
7
Page 8
5. Epoxy the aileron mounting blocks onto the hatch
❏ ❏
covers. Allow the epoxy to harden completely before moving on.
into the blocks. Thread a servo mounting screw (included
with the servos) into each hole and back it out. Apply a drop
of thin CA to each hole to harden the wood. When the CA
has dried, install the servos onto the hatch covers using the
hardware supplied with the servos.
6. Drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the hatch cover
❏ ❏
and through each aileron mounting block. The hole should be
slightly off center to prevent interference when drilling holes for
the aileron mounting screws in the next step. Thread a #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping fl athead screw into each block as shown.
7. Position each servo against the undersides of the
❏ ❏
aileron servo hatch covers between the mounting blocks.
Shim the aileron servos away from the hatch covers
approximately 3/64" [1.2mm] to isolate it from vibration (a
business card folded in thirds works well for this). Drill 1/16"
[1.6mm] holes through the mounting tabs on the servo case
8. Use the strings taped inside the aileron servo
❏ ❏
hatches to pull the servo leads through the wing panels and
out the servo lead exit holes.
9. Thread a #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] self-tapping screw into
❏ ❏
each hatch cover mounting hole in the wing and back it out.
Apply a drop of thin CA glue to each hole and allow the glue
to harden. Install the hatches using eight #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screws and eight #2 fl at washers.
8
Page 9
10. Thread a nylon clevis 20 complete turns onto two
❏ ❏
4" [102mm] pushrods. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto
each clevis and connect the clevises to the outer holes of
two small control horns.
CORRECTINCORRECT
glue to each hole to harden the wood. When the glue has dried,
install the control horns onto the ailerons using four 2-56 x 1/2"
[13mm] machine screws and the control horn backplates.
Servo Horn
Hinge LineHinge Line
11. Position the control horns over the plywood plates
❏ ❏
in the ailerons (if you cannot see them, hold the aileron at a
shallow angle in good lighting or use a small pin to puncture the
covering) using the position of the servo arms as a guide. Align
the holes in the control horns directly over the aileron hinge line
and mark the location of the control horn mounting holes.
2-56 (.074")
Pushrod Wire
13. Use tape or a small clamp to hold the ailerons in the
❏ ❏
neutral position. Make a mark on the pushrods where they
cross the outer holes in the servo arms. Make a 90° bend at
the mark on the pushrod and cut off the excess pushrod 1/4"
[6mm] beyond the bend. Attach the pushrods to the servo
arms using nylon FasLinks. Thread the clevises up or down
on the pushrods as necessary to center the ailerons with
the servo arms centered. When satisfi ed, slide the silicone
clevis retainers to the ends of the clevises to secure them.
FasLink
1/16"
12. Drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks you made
❏ ❏
through the plywood plates. Apply a couple drops of thin CA
14. Repeat steps 2-13 for the bottom wing.
❏
9
Page 10
15. Glue the bottom wing dowels into the holes in the
❏
leading edge. Position the dowels so that 3/8" [9.5mm]
protrudes beyond the holes.
16. Mount the bottom wing to the fuselage using two
❏
1/4-20 x 2" [51mm] nylon wing bolts.
HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA
Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the area
beneath the belly pan. The tip of the soldering iron doesn’t
have to be sharp, but a fi ne tip does work best. Allow the
iron to heat fully.
Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate
that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.
The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to
melt a fi ne cut. Peel off the covering.
17. Align the belly pan onto the bottom of the wing and
❏
tape it in position. Use a felt-tip pen to trace around the belly
pan onto the wing.
18. Carefully cut the covering 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the
❏
lines you drew and remove a strip of covering approximately
1/4" [6mm] from each side. Use a sharp hobby knife and take
care to cut only through the covering and not into the wood
beneath. Use denatured alcohol to wipe away the lines you
drew (or use CA debonder). See the following Expert Tip for
an alternative method for removing covering.
19. Apply a thin bead of glue along each side of the belly
❏
pan and glue it into place on the underside of the wing. Take
care not to inadvertently glue the belly pan to the fuselage.
Pieces of wax paper can be placed between the belly pan
and the fuse to ensure this will not happen.
10
Page 11
INSTALL THE TAIL SURFACES
1. Carefully cut away the support block at the aft end of
❏
horizontal stabilizer slot.
3. Measure the distance from the corners of the ailerons
❏
on the wing to the tips of the stab. Adjust the stab until the
distance from the tip of the stab to the wing is equal on both
sides. Before gluing the stab, test fi t the vertical fi n part way
into the fuse and confi rm the fuse sides fi t snugly against
the fi n. If the fi t is loose, leave the fi n in place while gluing
the stab into the slot and use small clamps to hold the fuse
sides against the fi n.
2. Insert the horizontal stabilizer into the stab pocket and
❏
center the stab left and right in the fuselage. Stand back
15-20ft [5-6m] and check to be sure the stab is parallel to
the wing. If necessary, adjust the stab saddle as needed by
lightly sanding it until the stab and wing are parallel.
A = A'
A
A'
4. When satisfi ed with the fi t, coat the exposed wood of
❏
the stabilizer with 30-minute epoxy. For a stronger joint, we
recommend also coating the stab pocket with epoxy. Set
the stab in position in the stab pocket and confi rm that it is
centered and parallel with the wing. When satisfi ed, clean up
any excess epoxy from the stab and fuse with paper towels
dampened with denatured alcohol. Be thorough when
cleaning to prevent a haze left behind on the covering after
the epoxy cures. Re-check the alignment. Allow the epoxy to
cure undisturbed.
11
Page 12
5. Confi rm that the vertical fi n is square with the horizontal
❏
stab. When satisfi ed, glue it in place (even with the back of
the fuselage) in the same manner.
6. The wing can now be removed from the fuselage.
❏
DRILL A 5/64" [2mm] HOLE,
3/8" [9.5mm] DEEP, IN CENTER
OF HINGE SLOT
CUT THE COVERING
AWAY FROM THE SLOT
9. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole 3/8" [9.5mm] deep in the center
❏
of each hinge slot in the horizontal stabilizer and elevators.
Use a sharp hobby knife to carefully cut away the covering
just around each hinge slot.
TEMPORARY PIN
TO KEEP HINGE
CENTERED
7. Test fi t the elevator joiner wireinto the elevator halves.
❏
Lay the elevators on your work surface and confi rm that they
both lay fl at. If not, “tweak”, or bend the elevator joiner wire
slightly until they do. Do not attempt to bend the joiner wire
while it is installed in the elevators. Using a straight edge
across the elevator halves, glue the joiner wire in place with
epoxy. Clean up any excess epoxy with denatured alcohol.
1"
1"
3/4"
8. Cut the included 2" x 9" [51mm x 229mm] piece of
❏
CA hinge material into 3/4" x 1" [19mm x 25mm] individual
hinges. Use a hobby knife or scissors to trim the corners from
each hinge to make them easier to insert into the hinge slots.
10. Fit a CA hinge into each hinge slot in the stab. If the
❏
hinges are diffi cult to install, use a hobby knife to slightly
enlarge the slots. Push a pin (T-pins work well for this) through
the middle of each hinge to keep them centered.
12
Page 13
11. Test fi t the elevators to the hinges and align the outside
❏
edges with the edges of the stab. Make any adjustments to
the hinge slots if necessary.
12. Fit the elevator halves to the hinges in the stab. Remove
❏
the pins from the hinges and position the elevators against
the TE of the stab. The hinge gap between the elevators and
stab should only be wide enough to allow a small line of light
through. Apply 6 drops of thin CA glue to the center of each
hinge on both sides. When the CA has dried, gently pull on the
elevators to confi rm that they are securely glued in place. The
hinges will hold the elevators in place while the epoxy cures.
14. Test fi t the tail wheel wire into the hole in the rudder.
❏
Test fi t the rudder onto the fuselage with CA hinges but do
not glue them yet.
15. When satisfi ed with the fi t, remove the rudder from
❏
the fuse and the tail wheel wire from the rudder. Apply a
thin coat of epoxy to the portion of the wire that fi ts into
the rudder as well as to the nylon tab that fi ts into the fuse.
Attach the rudder to the fuse with CA hinges in the same
manner you did with the elevators. Wipe away any excess
epoxy with denatured alcohol.
13. Apply a couple drops of oil to each end of the nylon
❏
tab on the tail wheel wire.
13
Page 14
INSTALL THE TAIL PUSHRODS & SERVOS
1. Thread a nylon clevis 20 turns onto two 17-1/2" [445mm]
❏
pushrods. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each clevis.
4. Trim the bottom corner from the rudder control horn.
❏
Install the control horn onto the right side of the rudder in the
same manner of the elevator using two 2-56 x 1/2" [13mm]
machine screws and a backplate. Be sure that the control
horn is inline with the rudder pushrod exit slot.
2. Temporarily insert one of the pushrods into the elevator
❏
outer pushrod tube on the left side of the fuse. Connect the
clevis to the outer hole of a LARGE control horn.
3. Install the control horn onto the underside of the left
❏
elevator half using two 2-56 x 1/2" [13mm] machine screws
and a backplate. Be sure to align the holes over the hinge line.
5. Install the elevator and rudder servos onto the servo tray
❏
in the orientation shown. Be sure to harden the servo mount
screw holes with CA. Center the servos with the radio system
and position the servo horns so they are perpendicular to the
servo cases. Trim the remaining four arms from a fi ve arm
servo arm and install them onto the servo. Enlarge the middle
holes of each remaining arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
6. Use tape or small clamps to hold the elevators and rudder
❏
in the neutral position. As you did with the ailerons, mark where
the pushrods cross the middle holes in the servo arms.
14
Page 15
7. Make a 90° bend at the marks on the pushrods and cut
❏
off the excess pushrod 1/4" [6mm] beyond the bends. Attach
the pushrods to the servo arms using nylon FasLinks. Thread
the clevises up or down on the pushrods as necessary to
center the control surfaces with the servo arms centered.
When satisfi ed, slide the silicone clevis retainers to the ends
of the clevises to secure them.
ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL
THE LANDING GEAR
1. Slide a landing gear fairing onto each landing gear leg
❏
as shown. Hold the gear legs up to the fuselage in position to
confi rm that you have the fairings on correctly before continuing.
3. Slide a 5/32" [4mm] wheel collar followed by a wheel
❏
and then another wheel collar onto each axle. Mark the
location of the screw holes in the wheel collars onto the axles.
4. Remove the wheels and wheel collars from the axles
❏
and use a fi le or rotary tool to grind fl at spots at the marks
you made.
5. Apply a drop or two of oil to each axle. Reinstall the wheel
❏
collars and wheels onto the axles. Thread a 6-32 x 1/4" [6mm]
SHCS into each wheel collar with thread locking compound
and tighten the screws against the fl at spots you made. Be
sure that the wheels rotate freely on the axles.
2. Install a 1-1/4" x 5/32" [32mm x 4mm] axle into each main
❏
landing gear leg and tightly secure them using 5/16-24 nuts.
6. Install the wheel pants onto the landing gear legs
❏
with four 2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine screws, four #2 lock
washers and thread locking compound.
15
Page 16
7. Mount the main landing gear to the fuselage using four
❏
6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock
washers and thread locking compound.
8. Mark the landing gear fairings where they need to be
❏
trimmed to fi t around the landing gear screws.
10. Install the tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire and
❏
secure it in place with a 3/32" [2.4mm] wheel collar, 4-40 set
screw and threadlocking compound. Be sure that the wheel
rotates freely on the wire.
INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM
Glow Engine Installation
The Christen Eagle is designed to be fl own with a .46-.55
two-stroke glow engine, .72 four-stroke glow engine, or a
brushless outrunner motor. If you plan to install a brushless
motor, skip this section as it only contains information
relevant to installing a glow engine.
The steps in this section show the installation of the stock
engine muffl er for a two-stroke engine. If you plan to use a
Pitts style muffl er, use the other engine mounting holes that
are not at an angle. This will allow your engine to be properly
side-mounted so the exhaust points downward. Choose the
best orientation that matches your muffl er and header if
installing a four-stroke engine.
9. Trim the fairings at the marks you made. Glue the
❏
landing gear fairings to the landing gear legs using silicone
or RC-56 glue.
1. Use an 11/64" [4.4mm] drill bit to drill the four glow
❏
engine mounting holes in the fi rewall. Note that there are
eight holes in the fi rewall. The four hole pattern for the glow
engine mount is set at an angle as shown in the picture. The
other holes are used for a brushless motor installation.
16
Page 17
2. Insert four 6-32 blind nuts into the back of the fi rewall.
❏
Use a 6-32 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS and a #6 fl at washer to
draw the blind nuts tight into the fi rewall.
Top of Tank
Vent
Fill and Carb Lines
3. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system
❏
consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffl er and a
carb line. Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be
done through the carb line, or an optional fuel fi ll valve (not
included). The tank can also be assembled as a three line
system having a vent line, carb line, and fi ll line. If installing
a fi ll line, puncture the top of the stopper above the sealed
off fuel tube hole. The fi ll and carb lines should extend out
1/2" [13mm] beyond the stopper and the vent line should be
bent upwards and left uncut. With the tubes installed in the
stopper, fi t the stopper plates loosely in place with the 3 x
25mm phillips screw to hold the assembly together.
4. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent line
❏
pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching. The
fuel tubing and clunks (fuel pickup) on the carb and fi ll lines
should almost reach the back of the tank but not touch. The
clunks must be able to move freely inside the tank when
assembled. Adjust the length of the fuel tubing accordingly.
When satisfi ed, tighten the 3x25mm screw in the stopper to
secure it in place (do not over-tighten). Mark the side of the
tank that must face up when installed in the plane. We also
suggest marking the tubes in the stopper.
5. Cut a piece of 1/4" [6mm] thick foam rubber (not included)
❏
to fi t the fuel tank and place it on the fuel tank tray. You may
fi nd it easier to insert the tank if you glue the foam to the tray.
17
Page 18
6. Insert the tank into the fuselage so the tank neck
❏
passes through the hole in the fi rewall. Cut a piece from
the included 3/16" x 3/8" [4.8mm x 9.5mm] balsa stick to fi t
snugly between the plywood framework behind the fuel tank.
Securely glue the stick in place.
8. Install the engine mount to the fi rewall using four 6-32 x
❏
3/4" [19mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock washers
and thread locking compound. Leave the screws slightly
loose. Test fi t your engine between the mount halves. Slide
the mount halves against the sides of the engine and fi nish
tightening the mount screws.
7. Connect a 6-7" [152-178mm] piece of standard fuel
❏
tubing to each tube protruding from the fuel tank.
9. Position the front of the engine drive washer 4-13/16"
❏
[122mm] from the front of the fi rewall. Mark the location of
the engine mount holes onto the mount rails using a Dead
Center Hole Locator. Remove the engine from the mount
and use a 6-32 tap and drill set to create threads in the four
mounting holes. Note: If you are installing a 4-stroke engine,
you may need to trim away the nose gear bearing from the
engine mount to provide clearance for the carburetor. An in-
cowl exhaust header (OSMG2567) will be useful in routing a
4-stroke muffl er in the prefered position.
18
Page 19
10. Attach the engine to the mount using four 6-32 x 3/4"
❏
[19mm] screws, four #6 fl at washers and four #6 lock washers.
11. Install your muffl er onto the engine.
❏
13. Cut four arms from a fi ve-armed servo arm included
❏
with your throttle servo. Center the servo with your radio
system (throttle stick positioned at 50% throttle) and install
the arm perpendicular to the servo case. Install a screw-
lock pushrod connector into the outer hole in the remaining
arm and secure it in place with a nylon screw-lock connector
retainer. Loosely install a 4-40 x 1/4" SHCS set screw into the
screw-lock pushrod connector.
14. Install the throttle servo onto the servo tray using the
❏
hardware supplied with the servo.
12. Cut the fuel tubing coming from the tank to the proper
❏
length and connect the pressure and carb lines to the engine.
The fi ll line (if installed) should be plugged with the included
fuel line plug. A plywood fi ll line clip is included and is glued
together as shown. Be sure to fuel proof the clip with epoxy
or CA glue. Securely glue the clip in the location shown and
route the fi ll line through the clip.
15. Drill a 3/16" [4.8mm] hole for the throttle pushrod in
❏
the fi rewall and the second former inline with the throttle arm
on the carburetor. An extra long drill bit is very useful for this
step (drill bit shown is stock number HIGR1020). Be sure
that you do not drill into the fuel tank if the throttle arm on
your engine is located in a different position than the one
shown in the picture.
19
Page 20
16. Insert the 12" [305mm] outer pushrod tube through
❏
the fi rewall and former but do not glue it yet. The front of the
pushrod tube should protrude approximately 3/8" [9.5mm]
beyond the front of the fi rewall.
18. The aft end of the pushrod should pass through the
❏
screw-lock connector. Adjust the pushrod position in the
connector so that the throttle servo properly opens and
closes the carburetor. When satisfi ed, tighten the SHCS in
the connector against the pushrod and cut off the excess
pushrod 1/4" [6mm] behind the connector. Use the radio
system to test the operation of the throttle.
19. Sand the outer pushrod tube in the location of the
❏
pushrod clip and the forward end. Use the plywood pushrod
clip to secure the outer pushrod tube to one of the fuselage
formers. Thoroughly glue the clip in place. Apply some CA
glue where the outer pushrod tube passes through the fi rewall.
17. Thread a nylon clevis with silicone clevis retainer onto
❏
the 36" pushrod. Insert the pushrod into the outer pushrod
tube. Make any necessary bends on the pushrod so that the
clevis can connect to the throttle arm without binding.
20
Page 21
Brushless Motor Installation
The Christen Eagle is designed to be fl own with a .46-.55
two-stroke glow engine, .72 four-stroke glow engine, or
a brushless outrunner motor. If you have installed a glow
engine, skip this section as it only contains information
relevant to installing a brushless motor.
Be sure to read and understand the instructions that
come with the ESC and motor before attempting to
operate the system.
1. Use an 11/64" [4.4mm] drill bit to drill the four brushless
❏
motor mounting holes in the fi rewall. Note that there are eight
holes in the fi rewall. The four hole pattern for the brushless
motor mount is positioned as shown in the picture. The other
holes are used for a glow engine installation.
2. Insert four 6-32 blind nuts into the back of the fi rewall.
❏
Use a 6-32 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS and a #6 fl at washer to
draw the blind nuts tight into the fi rewall.
3. Open up the perforated cool air holes in the fi rewall.
❏
Trim the covering from the air exit hole in the bottom of the
fuselage behind the wing saddle.
4. Use the included four 3x8mm machine screws and
❏
thread locking compound to attach the brushless motor to
the motor mount (not included).
21
Page 22
5. Attach the motor mount to the fi rewall using four 6-32 x
❏
1/2" [13mm] SHCS, four #6 fl at washers, four #6 lock washers
and thread locking compound. Loosen the screws that hold
the two motor mount halves together. Set the distance
between the fi rewall and the front of the prop adapter to be
4-13/16" [122mm]. Retighten the screws with thread locking
compound. Take care not to inadvertently add any up or
down thrust when altering the length of the motor mount.
6. Enlarge the three mounting holes for the ESC using a
❏
5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Thread a #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screw into
each hole and back it out. Apply a drop of thin CA glue to
each hole. When the glue is dry, mount the ESC as shown
using three #4 x 1/2" [13mm] self-tapping screws and three
#4 fl at washers.
8. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material
❏
long enough to wrap around your receiver battery by
overlapping the mating ends approximately 1" [25mm].
7. Assemble the receiver battery tray as shown. Use pieces
❏
of the included triangle stock to reinforce the glue joints.
9. Wrap your receiver pack with foam rubber (not included)
❏
and secure it to the battery tray using the strap you made
in the previous step. Use four 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS,
four #4 fl at washers and four 4-40 nylon locknuts to bolt the
battery tray to the brushless motor mount as shown.
22
Page 23
10. Attach a 6" [152mm] servo extension to the receiver
❏
battery using a piece of heat shrink tubing to secure the
connection. Connect the ESC to the motor and route the
receiver and battery wires through the fi rewall toward the
servos. Now would be a good time to test the operation
of the motor using your radio system. The motor should
rotate counter-clockwise when looking at it from the front. If
it rotates the wrong direction simply swap two of the three
motor leads. Use a tie strap (not included) or tape to secure
the motor lead wires to the motor mounting box.
11. Apply a thin coat of epoxy down the center of the
❏
battery tray. This will improve the adhesion of the hook and
loop material. When the epoxy has completely cured, attach
a piece of the hook side from some self-adhesive hook and
loop material (not included) to the battery tray. The loop
side should be attached to your battery pack (use additional
pieces to join LiPo packs together for a series confi guration).
13. Test fi t your batteries onto the tray. Adjust the length
❏
of the strap if necessary. When you check the balance of the
plane, the exact position of the batteries on the tray will be
determined.
FINISH THE MODEL
Install the Receiver and Battery
1. Make a strap from the included hook and loop material
❏
to fi t your receiver. Cut a piece of foam rubber (not included)
to fi t your receiver and strap the receiver to the radio tray as
shown. Connect the rudder, elevator and throttle servos to
the receiver (or ESC if applicable).
12. Make a hook and loop strap approximately 10" [254mm]
❏
long and feed the strap through the slots in the battery tray.
2. Mount your switch harness and charge jack to the
❏
fuselage side in the location that you prefer.
23
Page 24
3. If you have installed a glow engine, strap the receiver pack
❏
to the tray in front of the receiver. Pieces of scrap fuel tubing
have been glued to the tray to align the dual 2.4GHz receiver
antennas in the orientation described in the radio manual.
4. A receiver antenna tube is provided if you are using an
❏
FM receiver.
Install the Cowl and Spinner
2. If necessary, enlarge the hole in the spinner backplate
❏
to match your crankshaft or prop adapter. Place the cowl onto
the fuselage and then the spinner backplate onto the motor.
Position the cowl 5/64" [2mm] behind the spinner backplate,
center the front of the cowl with the backplate, align the
colors on the cowl with the trim scheme on the fuselage and
tape the cowl in position or have a helper hold it in place.
Measure along the lines on the tape 4" [76mm] and mark
the cowl for the four mounting screws. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm]
holes through the cowl and into the cowl mounting blocks at
your marks. Remove the cowl from the fuselage and enlarge
the holes in the cowl to 3/32" [2.4mm]. Thread a #2 x 3/8"
[9.5mm] self-tapping screw into each cowl mounting hole in
the fuselage and back it out again. Apply a drop of thin CA
to each hole. Mount the cowl using four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm]
self-tapping screws and four #2 fl at washers.
1. Apply 5" [127mm] pieces of tape along the fuselage
❏
starting at each of the four cowl mounting blocks. Mark the
center of each block onto the tape (1/4" [6mm] from the edge
of the fi rewall) and draw 4" [102mm] lines from your marks.
3. If you have installed a glow engine, cut openings in
❏
the cowl for the needle valve, glow plug access, muffl er
clearance, etc.
24
Page 25
4. Install the propeller, prop washer, prop nut, and spinner
❏
cone. It may be necessary to enlarge the propeller slots in
the spinner cone to fi t over your prop.
Install the Wings and Struts
1. If you have installed aileron servos in the top wing, trim
❏
the covering from the holes in the sheeting just aft of the rear
cabane strut mounting points.
3. Route 12" [305mm] servo leads through the holes that
❏
you trimmed the covering from (if applicable) and connect
the leads to your receiver with a Y-harness.
4. Bolt the bottom wing to the fuselage. Attach the
❏
interplane struts to the bottom wing by inserting the
aluminum tabs into the slots. Slide the struts aft until they
are fully seated in the wing. The strut ends that have a more
curved end attach to the bottom wing.
2. Attach the cabane struts to the top wing as shown
❏
with two 4-40 x 1/2" [13mm] SHCS, two #4 fl at washers and
thread locking compound.
5. Fit the top wing onto the interplane struts and secure
❏
them into the slots the same way you did with the bottom
wing. Slide the bottom ends of the cabane struts into the
grooves in the fuselage. Attach the cabanes to the fuselage
using four #4 x 1/2" [13mm] screws and four #4 fl at washers.
25
Page 26
6. Connect the top aileron servo lead extensions (if
❏
applicable) and then tape the connectors to the insides
of the cabanes. Be sure that you can easily connect and
disconnect the top wing.
Steps 7-10 should only be completed if you did not install
servos in the top wing. If you did install servos in the top wing,
skip to step 11.
7. If you did not install aileron servos into the top wing, cut
❏
off the top three holes from four small control horns. Enlarge
the remaining holes from only two of the control horns that
you just cut with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit.
9. Thread a nylon clevis 20 turns onto each of the
❏
remaining 12" [305mm] pushrods. Fit a silicone clevis
retainer onto each clevis. Attach the clevises to the control
horns on the upper ailerons. Use small clamps or tape to
hold the upper and lower ailerons in the neutral position
and mark where the pushrods cross the holes in the bottom
aileron control horns.
10. Make a 90° bend at both marks you made on the
❏
pushrods. Cut off the excess pushrods 1/4" [6mm] beyond
the bends. Attach the pushrods to the bottom control horns
with nylon FasLinks.
8. Locate the hardwood mounting points in the ailerons
❏
in line with the trailing edge. Attach the control horns with
the 5/64" [2mm] holes onto the bottom ailerons using four
2-56 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine screws and backplates. Attach the
other two control horns to the upper ailerons in the same manner.
26
Page 27
Install the Canopy/Hatch
11. The base of the canopy hatch has a partial laser cut
❏
line that is cut through the majority of the perimeter of the
hatch. If you wish to remove the base of the hatch to install
additional cockpit details of your choice, use a sharp hobby
knife to fi nish the cut lines. If you choose to not remove the
base, apply a bead of medium or thick CA glue around the
cut lines and allow it to harden.
14. This completes the assembly of the Christen Eagle
❏
.46 ARF!
Apply the Decals
1. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fi ngerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap and
water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though the
decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
12. We recommend gluing a #4 fl at washer to each of the
❏
two 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS for the canopy hatch. This will
reduce the chance of losing the washers at the fl ying fi eld.
2. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water
away.
3. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
13. Fit the canopy hatch in place and secure it with the
❏
two 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm] SHCS you prepared in the previous
step.
27
Page 28
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Install and Operate the Motor Battery
(Brushless Only)
batteries with lower voltage will try to “equalize” with the
batteries that have a higher voltage. Current will fl ow from
the higher voltage battery into the lower one, essentially
“charging” the lower voltage battery pack. This situation will
likely cause heat and possibly a fi re.
IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected
with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through the
adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge
the batteries, then read the following precautions on how to
connect multiple packs for fl ying the model.
There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In
Series and in Parallel.
These are two 3350mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3350 mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
3350mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3350mAh
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (–)’s and the (–)’s to the (+)’s. This combines the
voltages of the batteries, but the capacity remains the same.
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500nAh
OKAY
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
OKAY
NO!!!
11.1V (3-Cell)
3350mAh
Different
capacities
NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in
series or in parallel.
Check the Control Directions
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
❏
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the
❏
control surfaces to see if they are centered. If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.
4-CHANNEL RADIO SET UP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
11.1V (3-Cell)
1250mAh
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
11.1V (3-Cell)
1500nAh
This is a PARALLEL battery
adapter (GPMM3142) that
connects two batteries in parallel.
2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect the
(+)’s to the (+)’s and the (-)’s to the (-)’s. This combines the
capacities of the batteries, but the voltage remains the same.
11.1V (3-Cell)
Different
voltages
NEVER connect battery packs with different voltages
in parallel! Only combine them in series. Otherwise, the
3350mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3350mAh
NO!!!
PARALLEL
adapter
FULL
THROTTLE
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the carburetor
❏
respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.
If any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use
the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
28
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
Page 29
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface
as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not
have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the
low rate setting.
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model fl ies, and may
determine whether or not your fi rst fl ight will be successful.
If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many fl ights,
DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT PROCEDURE.
A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and
possibly unfl yable.
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fl y condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine or
brushless motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and
battery packs if applicable).
3-15/16"
[100mm]
1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
❏
mark the C.G. on the bottom of the top wing on both sides
of the fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-15/16" [100mm] back
from the center of the top wing at the leading edge.
These are the recommended control surface throws:
HIGH RATELOW RATE
Up
ELEVATOR
RUDDER
AILERONS
IMPORTANT: The Christen Eagle .46 ARF has been
extensively fl own and tested to arrive at the throws at
which it fl ies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful fi rst
fl ights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way
the Christen Eagle fl ies, you would like to change the
throws to suit your taste, that is fi ne. However, too much
control throw could make the model diffi cult to control, so
remember, “more is not always better.”
5/8"
[16mm]
15°
Right
1-1/8"
[29mm]
20°
Up
7/16"
[11mm]
20°
Down
5/8"
[16mm]
15°
Left
1-1/8"
[29mm]
20°
Down
7/16"
[11mm]
20°
Up
7/16"
[11mm]
11°
Right
1/2"
[13mm]
9°
Up
5/16"
[8mm]
14°
Down
7/16"
[11mm]
11°
Left
1/2"
[13mm]
9°
Down
5/16"
[8mm]
14°
This is where your model should balance for the fi rst fl ights.
Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the C.G. up to
1/8" [3mm] forward or 1/8" [3mm] back to change the fl ying
characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward may improve the
smoothness and stability, but the model may then require
more speed for takeoff and make it more diffi cult to slow
for landing. Moving the C.G. aft makes the model more
maneuverable, but could also cause it to become too
diffi cult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance point and do not at any time balance the model
outside the specifi ed range. Please note that, unlike some
models, this model has a very small balancing range
which has been determined to be a safe range.
2. Because of the position of the landing gear and lower
❏
wing, the base of the Great Planes CG Machine™ must be
raised on the aft end if you choose to use one. We used a
block of wood approximately 2" [51mm] tall as shown.
29
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3. With the wings attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
❏
model installed (ready to fl y) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model on your Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it at the
balance point you marked.
4. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
❏
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the model
is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver must be
shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to balance. If
possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver to minimize
or eliminate any additional ballast required. If additional
weight is required, nose weight may be easily added by using
a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or
GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If spinner weight is not
practical or is not enough, use Great Planes (GPMQ4485)
“stick-on” lead. A good place to add stick-on nose weight is to
the fi rewall (don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended
to support weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing
amounts of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the fi rewall
until the model balances. Once you have determined the
amount of weight required, it can be permanently attached.
If required, tail weight may be added by cutting open the
bottom of the fuse and gluing it permanently inside. Note:
Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead weight
to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and exhaust
residue may soften the adhesive and cause the weight to
fall off. Use #2 sheet metal screws, RTV silicone or epoxy to
permanently hold the weight in place.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fl y at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or
if you fl y somewhere on your own, you should always have
your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
fl ying sites and AMA sanctioned fl ying events. Fill out the
identifi cation tag on page 35 (or on the decal sheet) and
place it on or inside your model.
Charge the Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries
the night before you go fl ying, and at other times as
recommended by the radio manufacturer.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries
may not reach their full capacity and you may be fl ying
with batteries that are only partially charged.
Balance Propellers
5. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any
❏
weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the
❏
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fi n. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means
❏
that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced
will track better in loops and other maneuvers.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fl y. An unbalanced prop can be the single most signifi cant
cause of vibration that can damage your model. Not only
will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen, possibly with
disastrous effect, but vibration may also damage your radio
receiver and battery. Vibration can also cause your fuel to
foam, which will, in turn, cause your engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our fl ight box.
30
Page 31
Ground Check
If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in, confi rm
that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly and rapidly
to full power and maintains full power—indefi nitely. After you
run the engine on the model, inspect the model closely to
make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges are secure,
the prop is secure and all pushrods and connectors are secure.
Range Check
Ground check the operational range of your radio before
the fi rst fl ight of the day. With the transmitter antenna
collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should
be able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and
still have control (if using a 2.4GHz radio system, refer to
the radio manual for the range checking procedure). Have
an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the
controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. Repeat
this test with the engine running at various speeds with an
assistant holding the model, using hand signals to show you
what is happening. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fl y! Find and correct the problem fi rst. Look
for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from
a previous crash.
ENGINE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
• Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or fl ames, as fuel is very fl ammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
• Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
engines.
• Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
• Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;
the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
• Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away
from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and
run the engine.
• Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.
• Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fi ngers to fl ip the propeller. Make certain
the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not
pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller.
• Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating
propeller.
• The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fi re.
• To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fi ngers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings,
and cause bodily harm!
ONLY use a Li-Po approved charger. NEVER use a
•
NiCd/NiMH peak charger!
NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
•
ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER
•
charge through the “discharge” lead.
NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
•
ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match
•
battery volts.
ALWAYS charge in a fi reproof location.
•
NEVER trickle charge.
•
NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed
•
150° F (65° C).
NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any
•
way or puncture cells.
NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.
•
NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
•
unattended during charge or discharge.
ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
•
AMA SAFETY CODE (DWB DQ OSR )
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven
to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight
tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
31
Page 32
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
❏ 5. Use threadlocking compound to secure critical fasteners
such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles to the
struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable),
screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
❏ 9. Confi rm that all controls operate in the correct direction
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with vinyl
tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for that
purpose.
❏ 12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
❏ 13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffl er with
high temp RTV silicone, thread locking compound or J.B.
Weld.
❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are not
kinked.
❏ 15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone
number on or inside your model.
❏ 18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
make sure it is fully charged.
❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before
your fi rst fl ight.
❏ 20. Range check your radio when you get to the fl ying fi eld.
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the fi rst fl ight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is fl own. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.
❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
provided in the manual.
❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffi ng them into place with
foam rubber is not suffi cient.
❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏ 4. Balance your model laterally as explained in the instructions.
FLYING
The Christen Eagle .46 ARF is a great-fl ying model that
fl ies smoothly and predictably. The Christen Eagle does
not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should be fl own only by experienced
R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature
than an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you
will help prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating.
32
Page 33
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,
while fl ying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound such
as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control surface
fl utter. Flutter occurs when a control surface (such as an
aileron or elevator) or a fl ying surface (such as a wing or
stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing the noise).
In extreme cases, if not detected immediately, fl utter can
actually cause the control surface to detach or the fl ying
surface to fail, thus causing loss of control followed by
an impending crash. The best thing to do when fl utter is
detected is to slow the model immediately by reducing
power, then land as soon as safely possible. Identify
which surface fl uttered (so the problem may be resolved)
by checking all the servo grommets for deterioration or
signs of vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are
secure and free of play. If it fl uttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably fl utter again unless the
problem is fi xed. Some things which can cause fl utter are;
Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns solidly;
Poor fi t of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire pushrods
caused by large bends; Excessive free play in servo
gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of the most
prevalent causes of fl utter; Flying an over-powered model
at excessive speeds.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden fl ight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages for peace of mind.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready,
point the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of
up elevator to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail
wheel steering, then gradually advance the throttle. As the
model gains speed decrease up elevator allowing the tail to
come off the ground. One of the most important things to
remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much
speed as your runway and fl ying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffi c pattern.
Take it easy with the Eagle for the fi rst few fl ights, gradually
getting acquainted with it as you gain confi dence. Adjust the
trims to maintain straight and level fl ight. After fl ying around
for a while and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel,
practice slow fl ight and execute practice landing approaches
by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at
slower speeds. Add power to see how the model climbs as
well. Continue to fl y around, executing various maneuvers
and making mental notes (or having your assistant write
them down) of what trim or C.G. changes may be required
to fi ne tune the model so it fl ies the way you like. Mind your
fuel level, but use this fi rst fl ight to become familiar with your
model before landing.
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on
the downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down
as you turn onto the crosswind leg. Make your fi nal turn
toward the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing fl are and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost fl ying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground,
regaining tail wheel control.
One fi nal note about fl ying your model. Have a goal or fl ight
plan in mind for every fl ight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly fi nding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A fl ight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because
of poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffi c, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the fl ight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fl y more smoothly at reduced speeds.
Have a ball!
But always stay in control and fl y in a safe manner.
When the original Revolver ARF was released in 2007, its racy, streamlined looks and outstanding aerobatics made it an instant best-seller.
Then Great Planes developed something even bigger and better – the 70" span Revolver! It’s even more impressive in the air, easier to track
and less affected by wind. Capable of everything from simple sport fl ying to airshow-caliber maneuvers, this Revolver performs equally
well with glow or electric power. The fi berglass cowl, wheel pants and landing gear are painted to match the eye-catching MonoKote® trim
scheme. A pilot fi gure and aluminum spinner are included.
GPMA1019
Re quires: 4-channel radio w/5 servos,
ires: 4-channel radio w/5 servos,
2-stroke .61-.75 or 4-stroke .81-.91
engine or RimFire™ .80 outrunner BL
motor, 60A BL ESC (min) & two 11.1V
3200mAh LiPo batteries
34
Page 35
Futaba® 6EX 2.4GHz Computer Radio
Superior full-range capability
comes to 2.4GHz technology.
Once you’ve experienced the 6EX 2.4GHz FASST system, you
won’t want to fl y any other way! The secret is the all-in-one
R606FS receiver: its compact size and light weight makes
it easy to mount and perfect for park fl yers — but it’s also
powerful enough to control any type of R/C aircraft, including
electric, gasoline-powered and giant-scale planes as well as
helis. You can fl y without fear of signal confl ict or the need for
a frequency pin, because Continuous Channel Shifting makes
interference virtually impossible, and Pre-Vision™ scans
incoming data and applies corrections in advance. With Easy
Link™, your receiver will respond only to your transmitter —
and you’ll enjoy a strong signal regardless of your plane’s
attitude because Dual Antenna Diversity seamlessly selects
the best reception between two antennas. Equip your model
with whatever Futaba servos it requires — the 6EX 2.4GHz
FASST system is compatible with them all!
FUTK6900
®
O.S. Engine
It’s a win-win for any pilot: a 4-stroke engine that fi ts in a .60size space and offers the extra power needed for 3D and/or scale
fl ying. Like the O.S. 56FS-a, 81FS-a and 110FS-a, the 72FS-a
recirculates excess oil instead of venting it. That results in less
mess and better lubrication. An extended venturi improves fuel/oil
mixing, and the adjustable F-5030 muffl er offers rich, deep sound
and can be rotated 360° and moved in or out for a perfect fi t.
OSMG0877
72FS-a 4-Stroke
Displacement: 0.719 cu in (11.8 cc)
Bore: 1.063 in (27 mm)
Stroke: 0.811 in (20.6 mm)
Weight w/muffl er: 18.7 oz (530 g)
Practical rpm range: 2,400-12,500
Output: 1.2 hp @ 11,000 rpm
Includes: 61N carburetor, F-5030 muffl er & F glow plug
35
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