GREAT PLANES SPITFIRE, 2610 Instruction Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822 USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE
OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ1478 for GPMA1478 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2007

Champaign, Illinois

[phone], Ext 5

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 39 in [990mm]
Wing Area: 272 in2[17.5dm2]
Weight: 40 – 48 oz [1130 – 1360g]
Wing Loading: 21 – 25 oz/ft2[65 – 78g/dm2]
Length: 35.5 in [895mm]
Radio: 4-channel minimum w/4 to 5 micro servos and standard

size receiver

Engine: .25 cu in [4cc] two-stroke, 35-30-1450kV RimFire

™

out-runner motor

INTRODUCTION ...............................................................2

AMA...................................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS..................................................3

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE........................................3

Radio Equipment .........................................................3

Power System Recommendations ..............................3

Batteries & Charger.....................................................4

Propeller......................................................................4

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.....................................4

Required Hardware & Accessories.............................4

Adhesives & Building Supplies....................................4

Optional Supplies & Tools ...........................................4

Building Stand.............................................................5

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES......................................5

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ..............................5

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS............................................6

METRIC CONVERSIONS .................................................6

KIT INSPECTION..............................................................7

KIT CONTENTS ................................................................7

PREPARATIONS...............................................................8

BUILD THE WING .............................................................8

Install the Ailerons.......................................................8

Install the Aileron Servos & Pushrods.........................8

Join the Wing.............................................................11

BUILD THE FUSELAGE..................................................12

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer, Elevator & Vertical Fin.......12

Install the Elevator & Rudder Pushrods & Servos..........14

Glow Engine, Fuel Tank & Radio Installation ............15

Out-runner Motor, Battery & Radio Installation.........18

FINISH THE MODEL .......................................................22

Install the Cowl..........................................................22

Final Assembly..........................................................22

Optional Landing Gear..............................................24

Apply the Decals .......................................................25

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY.................................25

Check the Control Directions ....................................25

Set the Control Throws..............................................25

Balance the Model (C.G.)..........................................26

Balance the Model Laterally ......................................27

PREFLIGHT.....................................................................27

Identify Your Model....................................................27

Charge the Batteries .................................................27

Balance the Propellers..............................................27

Ground Check...........................................................27

Range Check.............................................................27

ENGINE / MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ................28

LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE...................28

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)....................................28

CHECK LIST ...................................................................29

FLYING ............................................................................29

Fuel Mixture Adjustments..........................................29

Takeoff.......................................................................30

Flight..........................................................................30

Landing......................................................................30

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the Great
Planes Combat Class #2610 Fighters! The Combat Spitfire
ARF is a great flying model suitable for combat flying or
sport flying. Accommodations have been provided for both a
glow engine and a brushless out-runner motor, and optional
landing gear gives the sport flyer the comfort of paved
runway landings.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Combat Spitfire ARF visit the Great Planes web site at
www.g reatplanes.com.Open the “Airplanes” link, then select
the Combat Spitfire ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at
AMA clubs.Though joining the AMA provides many benefits,
one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club
field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and
air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts
printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage.Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

AMA

INTRODUCTIONTABLE OF CONTENTS

2

1.Your Combat Spitfire ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Combat Spitfire ARF, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in first-class
condition, and a correctly sized engine and components
(fuel tank, wheels, etc.) throughout the building process.

5.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .

6.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights.If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby
shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

8.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the
recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for
taking steps to reinforce the high stress points and/or
substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress .

9. WARNING: The cowl included in this kit is made of
fiberglass, the fibers of which may cause eye, skin and
respiratory tract irritation. Never blow into a part to remove
fiberglass dust, as the dust will blow back into your eyes.
Always wear safety goggles, a particle mask and rubber
gloves when grinding, drilling and sanding fiberglass parts.
Vacuum the parts and the work area thoroughly after
working with fiberglass parts.

Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

This is a partial list of items required to finish the Combat
Spitfire ARF that may require planning or decision making
before starting to build. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.

The Combat Spitfire ARF requires a minimum 4-channel
radio system with four micro servos with a minimum of 35
oz.-in.[2.5 kg-cm] torque. If you are installing a glow engine,
an additional micro servo is required for the throttle.

In addition, two 9" [230mm] servo extensions are required
for the aileron servos. If you are using a radio system that
does not support mixing functions, a Y-harness will also be
required to connect the aileron servos to the receiver.
Recommended part numbers are provided below:

❏ Futaba

®

S3115 Micro Precision Servo (FUTM0415)

❏ Futaba 9" Servo Extension J (FUTM3910)
❏ Futaba 6" Dual Servo Extension J (FUTM4130)

The recommended engine/motor size for the Combat
Spitfire ARF is a .25 two-stroke engine or a RimFire

™

C35-30-1450kV out-runner brushless motor. Engine and
motor order numbers are provided below:

❏ O.S.

®

.25 FX Non-Ringed w/Muffler (OSMG0525)

❏ Great Planes RimFire 35-30-1450kV Out-runner

Brushless Motor (GPMG4600)

If using the recommended brushless motor, the Great
Planes SS-45 brushless ESC is required. Bullet connector
adapters are also required.The adapters can be purchased
pre-assembled, or the individual components can be
purchased to make your own.

Power System Recommendations

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

3

❏ Great Planes Silver Series 45A Brushless ESC 5V/2A

BEC (GPMM1840)

❏ Great Planes 4mm Male to 3.5mm Female Bullet

Connector Adapters (GPMM3123)

If you wish to make your own adapters, the following part
numbers will be needed:

❏ Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet Connectors Female

3.5mm (GPMM3113)

❏ Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet Connectors Male

4mm (GPMM3114)

❏ W.S. Deans

®

Racing Silver Solder 1 oz. (WSDC4030)

❏ Hobbico

®

Soldering Iron 60 Watt (HCAR0776)

For a brushless motor installation, a 3200mAh 11.1V
Lithium-Polymer battery pack or a 2000mAh 9.6V NiMH
pack are recommended. Order numbers for the battery
packs are provided below:

❏ Great Planes LiPo 3200mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge

w/Balance (GPMP0623)

❏ Great Planes 8-Cell 9.6V 4/5 SC 2000mAh NiMH

Custom (GPMP0352)

Note: A cell balancer is required for the LiPo battery pack
listed above.

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly

™

Equinox LiPo 1 to 5 Cell

Balancer (GPMM3160)

A suitable charger is also required. The Great Planes
PolyCharge4™is designed for LiPo packs only, but is able to
charge four LiPo packs simultaneously. The Great Planes
Triton2™charger will only charge one pack at a time, but is
capable of charging NiCd, NiMH, LiPo, and lead acid
batteries. Order numbers for both are provided below:

❏ Great Planes PolyCharge4 DC Only 4 Output LiPo

Charger (GPMM3015)

or

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Triton2 DC Comp Peak

Charger (GPMM3153)

For an economical alternative to charge NiMH packs,
we suggest:

❏ Great Planes ElectriFly Peak 400 DC 1-10C Peak

Charger (GPMM3001)

If using the O.S. .25 FX glow engine or the Great Planes
35-30-1450kV RimFire out-runner motor, we suggest using
a 9" x 6" propeller.

❏ APC 9" x 6" sport propeller (APCQ0906)

This is the list of hardware and accessories required to finish
the Combat Spitfire ARF. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses:

❏ R/C foam rubber (1/4" [6mm] – HCAQ1000, or 1/2"

[13mm] – HCAQ1050)

❏ 3' [900mm] Standard silicone fuel tubing (GPMQ4131)

This is the list of Adhesives and Building Supplies that are
required to finish the Combat Spitfire ARF:

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro

™

CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ Thread-locking compound (GPMR6060)
❏ Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
❏ Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], 1/8" [3.2mm],

5/32" [4mm]

❏ Great Planes 10-Piece Metric Tap & Drill Set

(GPMR8118, Note: 3mm tap & drill is needed for glow
engine installation only)

❏ Tap handle (GPMR8120)
❏ R/C-56 canopy glue (JOZR5007)
❏ Small metal file
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 Blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
❏ Top Flite

®

MonoKote®sealing iron (TOPR2100)

❏ Top Flite Hot Sock

™

iron cover (TOPR2175)

❏ Liquid dish soap

Here is a list of optional tools that will help you build the
Combat Spitfire ARF:

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thick Pro CA- (GPMR6013)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] aerosol CA activator (GPMR6034)
❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Pro 6-minute epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Epoxy brushes 6, (GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
❏ Switch & Charge Jack mounting set (GPMM1000)
❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)

Optional Supplies & Tools

Adhesives & Building Supplies

Required Hardware & Accessories

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Propeller

Batteries & Charger

4

❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8020)
❏ Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)
❏ Hobby Heat

™

micro torch (HCAR0750)

❏ Dead Center

™

Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130)

❏ Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
❏ AccuThrow

™

deflection gauge (GPMR2405)

❏ CG Machine

™

(GPMR2400)

❏ Hobbico flexible 18" ruler stainless steel (HCAR0460)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote trim seal iron (TOPR2200)
❏ Top Flite MonoKote heat gun (TOPR2000)
❏ Hobbico Pin Vise 1/16" collet w/6 bits (HCAR0696)
❏ Hobbico 7-Piece ball tip hex L-wrench

Metric (HCAR0521)

❏ Great Planes clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)
❏ X-Acto

®

Extra Hands double clip (XACR4214)

A building stand or cradle comes in handy during the build.We
use the Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) for all our projects
in R&D and it can be seen in pictures throughout this manual.

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon
your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a
specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Photos

and

sketches

are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway.To vie w this inf ormation visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.

Replacement parts for the Great Planes Combat Spitfire
ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer or
mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at
www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom
of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If order ing via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard

®

number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product
Support by e-mail at [e-mail],
or by telephone at [phone].

Description How to Purchase

Missing parts Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support
Full-size plans Not available
Kit parts listed below Hobby Supplier

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Building Stand

5

Replacement Parts List

GPMA2821..............Wing Set

GPMA2822..............Fuse Kit

GPMA2823..............Tail Set

GPMA2824..............Cowl

GPMA2825..............Canopy

GPMA2826..............Landing Gear

GPMA2827..............Engine Mount

GPMA2828..............Decal Sheet

GPMQ4515 ............2-1/4" White Plastic Spinner

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge

TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

mm = Millimeters

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

ESC = Electronic Speed Control

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

METRIC CONVERSIONS

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

6

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4.0mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19.0mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762.0mm
36" = 914.4mm

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

7

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly ,
contact Product Support. When repor ting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.

Great Planes Product Support:

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone], ext. 5

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

KIT INSPECTION

1 Fuselage
2 Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Halves (L&R)
3 Canopy
4 Cowl
5 Vertical Fin & Rudder
6 Landing Gear (L&R)
7 Main Wheels (2)

8 Engine Mount

9 Spinner
10 Right Wing Panel (w/Aileron)
11 Left Wing Panel (w/Aileron)

Kit Contents

KIT CONTENTS

1

2 3

4

5

6

7

6

8

10

11

9

❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major

parts of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any
parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at
the address or telephone number listed in the

"Kit

Inspection"

section on page 7.

❏ 2. Remove the tape and separate all the control surfaces.

Use a covering iron with a covering soc k on medium/high heat
to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply pressure over
sheeted areas to thoroughly bond the covering to the wood.

❏ 1.Test fit a CA hinge into each of the hinge slots in the wing

panels and ailerons. If necessary, enlarge the slots with a

hobby knife. When satisfied with the fit, insert a CA hinge
halfway into each hinge slot in the wing panels. Push a pin
through the middle of each hinge to keep them centered.

❏ 2. Join the ailerons to the wing panels. Position the

ailerons so that there is a 3/32" [2.4mm] gap between the
inside ends of the ailerons and the wing panels.

❏ 3. Remove the pins in the hinges.Adjust the ailerons so

there is a small gap between the LE of the aileron and the
wing. The gap should be small, just enough to see light
through the gap or to slip a piece of paper through.

❏ 4. Apply six drops of thin CA to the top and bottom of

each hinge without using accelerator.After the CA glue has
hardened, confirm that the ailerons are secure by pulling on
them and deflecting them up and down.

There are servo bays in both the top and bottom of the wing
panels. If you plan to install the optional landing gear (sport
flying), install the servos on the bottom of the wings.If you plan to
use the Combat Spitfire ARF for combat flying, you may choose
not to install the optional landing gear. In this case, install the
servos into the top of the wing panels to protect the servos during
belly landings.The assembly procedure is the same f or both.

❏ 1. Locate and remove the covering from the aileron

servo bays on the bottom (or top) of the wing panels using

a sharp hobby knife.

Install the Aileron Servos & Pushrods

Install the Ailerons

BUILD THE WING

PREPARATIONS

8

❏ 2. Attach a 9" [230mm] servo extension to each aileron

servo.Secure the connection with tape or heat-shrink tubing
(not included).

❏❏3.Pull the outside end of the servo wire string through

the servo bay opening.Tie the string to the end of the servo
extension.The other end of the string is taped to the root rib
of the wing panel.Remove the tape and use the string to pull
the servo wire through the wing panel.

❏❏4. Install the rubber grommets and eyelets that were

included with the servo. Mount the servo in the servo bay
and drill a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through each mounting hole
location. Remove the servo and install and remove a servo
mounting screw (included with your servo) into each hole.
Apply a couple drops of thin CA into the holes to harden the
wood. When the CA has hardened completely, install the
servo into the servo bay using the servo mounting screws
with the servo spline facing forward.

❏ 5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other wing panel.

❏ 6. Cut three arms from a four-armed servo arm for

each servo.

❏ 7. Use your radio system to center the servos.Install the

servo arms perpendicular to the ser vo case pointing to the

wing tips.

9

❏ 8.Place a control horn onto each aileron in line with the outer

hole of the servo arm. We used a ruler as a straightedge.
Position the horn so that the holes in the horn are centered
above the aileron hinge line.Use a fine, felt-tip pen or a T-pin to
mark the locations of the control horn screws onto the ailerons.

❏ 9. Drill holes at your marks through the ailerons using a

5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Install the control horns using 2mm x
15mm machine screws and the control horn backplates.The
ends of the screws can be cut flush with the backplates.

❏ 10. Locate a 2mm x 120mm pushrod wire threaded on one

end. Screw a nylon clevis and a silicone clevis retainer onto the
threaded end of the wire 20 full turns. Install the clevis onto the
outer hole of the control horn. (If necessar y, enlarge the hole
with a 5/64" [2mm] bit.) Center the servo arm (perpendicular to
the servo case) and center the aileron (use tape or small clamps
to hold it in place).Mark the location where the wire crosses the
outer hole in the servo arm. Bend the wire 90 degrees at this
mark and cut the excess wire 1/4" [6mm] beyond the bend.
Repeat this step for the other pushrod.

❏ 11. Enlarge the outer hole in the servo arm with a

Hobbico Servo Horn Drill or a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Attach the
clevis to the control horn, slide the silicone clevis retainer
over the clevis and install the 90° bend in the wire into the
servo arm and retain it with a nylon FasLink. Connect the
pushrod for the other wing panel the same way.

10

❏ 1. Locate the two plywood wing joiners. Mix up a small

amount of epoxy and laminate the two pieces together. Join
the pieces together, being sure the edges are as flush as
possible.Use alcohol to wipe away any excess epoxy. Make
note of the top side of the joiner.This should face the top of
the wing panels when installed.

❏ 2. Trim the covering from the round servo wire exit holes

on the tops of the wing panels.Feed the servo wires through
the holes.

❏ 3. Test fit the joiner into both wing halves. The joiner

should fit slightly loose to allow room for epoxy. If the joiner
is too snug, sand the face, top or bottom as necessary for
the proper fit.

❏ 4. Trim the covering that overlaps onto the root ribs of

each wing panel. Mix approximately 1/2 oz [15cc] of 30­minute epoxy. Apply a liberal amount of epoxy into the wing
joiner pocket of each wing, the root rib of each wing and the
joiner. Insert the wing joiner into the right wing panel and
then slide the left panel onto the joiner.Push the two halves
together firmly, making sure there are no gaps anywhere
between the wing panels. Clean any excess epoxy from the
wing surface with alcohol. Hold the wings together with
masking tape until the epoxy has completely cured.

❏ 5. Locate and remove the covering from the wing bolt

holes near the TE of the wing.

❏ 6. Align the wing bolt plate over the holes on the

underside of the wing.There is a shallow perforation on the
uncovered side of the wing bolt plate to allow you to bend
the plate to match the dihedral of the wing.With the wing bolt
plate centered over the holes, use a fine , felt-tip pen to trace
around the plate onto the wing.

Join the Wing

11

❏ 7.T rim the covering just inside your lines .Wipe away the lines

with alcohol and glue the wing bolt plate to the wing. Continue
the wing bolt holes through the wing bolt plate with a 5/32"
[4mm] drill bit.A wood backer piece while drilling will help ensure
clean-edged holes in the backplate.

❏ 1. Locate and remove the covering away from the

fuselage for the horizontal stabilizer and ver tical fin.

❏ 2.In order to properly align the stab in the fuse, the wing will need

to be temporarily installed.Attach the wing using two 3mm x 25mm
Phillips machine screws and two 3mm flat washers.

❏ 3. Inser t the stab into the fuse. Position the stab so it is

centered left and right in the fuse and the tips of the stab are
an equal distance from the wing tips.Trace around the stab
where it meets the fuse with a felt-tip pen.

Install the Horizontal Stabilizer,

Elevator & Vertical Fin

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate that will
just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.The hotter
the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to melt a fine cut.
Peel off the covering.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from wing.The tip of
the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine-tip does
work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.

12

❏ 4. Cut the covering away 1/16" [1.6mm] inside the lines

you drew.

❏ 5. Before putting the elevator joiner wire into the stab

slot, trim the covering from the grooves and elevator joiner
wire holes at the TE of the elevator halves. Fit the elevator
joiner wire into the elevators and lay them down on a flat
work surface. Both elevators should lay flat. If not, gently
twist the joiner wire until they do (remove the elevator joiner
wire from the elevator halves before bending).

❏ 6. Insert the elevator joiner wire into the back of the stab

slot along with the stab.Stand back several feet and vie w the
model from the back. Confirm that the stab is aligned
parallel with the wing. If necessary, lightly sand the stab
pocket or add weight to one side of the stab to bring them
parallel. When satisfied, glue the stab in place with epoxy.
For a strong joint, apply epoxy to the inside of the stab
pocket and onto the stab itself .Wipe away any e xcess epo xy
with alcohol and let the epoxy cure undisturbed.Be sure that
the epoxy does not contact the joiner wire.

❏ 7. Fit the vertical fin into the fuse and trace around it onto

the fin. Remove the fin and cut the covering away slightly
beneath the lines you drew (leav e the cov ering on the TE of the
fin in place). Use epoxy to glue the fin in position.

❏ 8. Insert a hinge half way into each hinge slot in the stab

and keep them centered with a pin. Coat the ends of the
elevator joiner wire with epoxy. Join the elevator halves to
the stab by first fitting the joiner wire ends into the mating
holes in the elevators, then fitting the CA hinges into place.
Before wicking thin CA glue into the hinges, position the
elevator halves so that the gaps between the stab ends and
the elevator tips are equal.

❏ 9. Join the rudder to the fuse and fin with CA hinges.

13

❏ 1. Locate and remove the covering from the pushrod

exits on both sides of the fuse beneath the stab.

❏ 2. Inser t one of the 19-3/4" [502mm] pushrod wires through

the left pushrod exit slot into the fuse.Hook a nylon control horn
onto the Z-bend in the pushrod wire.Align the control horn onto
the underside of the left elevator half and position the holes o ver
the hinge line at a slight inward angle matching the angle of the
pushrod.When satisfied, mark the locations for the control horn
mounting screws.Drill the holes using a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit and
install the control horn with two 2mm x 15mm machine screws
and a control horn backplate.

❏ 3.With the other 19-3/4" [502mm] pushrod, install a control

horn on the right side of the rudder in the same manner.

❏ 4. Using the hardware supplied with the ser vos, install

the elevator and rudder servo into the fuse with the servo
splines facing forward. Be sure to reinforce the servo
mounting screw holes with thin CA.

❏ 5. As you did with the ailerons, cut three arms from the

elevator and rudder servo arms.Enlarge the outer hole of each

Install the Elevator & Rudder

Pushrods & Servos

14

servo arm with a 5/64" [2mm] drill bit. Install a screw-lock
pushrod connector into the outer hole of each servo arm.
Tighten them to the servo arms with a 2mm flat washer, knurled
nut, and thread-locking compound. The nut should be snug
against the washer but still allow the pushrod connector to rotate
freely in the servo arm hole.Slide the pushrod wires through the
screw-lock pushrod connectors and attach the servo arms to the
servos (perpendicular to the servo case pointing out) using the
servo arm screws included with the servos. With the elevators
and rudder centered, thread a 3mm set screw with thread­locking compound into the tops of the pushrod connectors and
tighten it against the pushrod wires. Cut away the excess
pushrod wires 1/4" [6mm] beyond the pushrod connectors.

The Combat Spitfire ARF is designed to be flown with a .25
glow engine or an out-runner brushless motor.If you plan to
install a brushless motor, skip this section as it only contains
information relevant to installing a glow engine.

❏ 1. Remove the stopper from the fuel tank and shake out

the contents.

❏ 2. The fuel tank can be assembled as a two line system

consisting of a vent (pressure) line to the muffler and a carb line.
Filling and emptying of the tank would need to be done through
the carb line, or an optional fuel fill valve (not included).The tank
can also be assembled as a three line system having a vent line ,
carb line, and fill line.If installing a fill line, puncture the third hole
in the top of the stopper above the sealed off fuel tube hole.The
fill and carb lines should extend out 1/2" [13mm] beyond the
stopper and the vent line should be bent upwards and left uncut.
With the tubes installed in the stopper, fit the stopper plates
loosely in place with the 3mm x 25mm phillips screw to hold the
assembly together.

❏ 3. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent line

pointing toward the top of the tank, but not touching.The fuel
tubing and clunk (fuel pickup) on the carb line should almost
reach the back of the tank but not touch. The clunk must be
able to move freely inside the tank when assemb led.Adjust the
length of the fuel tubing accordingly. If you wish to use the fill
line to drain the tank, attach a length of fuel tubing and an
additional fuel clunk (not included) to the fill line inside the tank.
When satisfied, tighten the 3mm x 25mm screw in the stopper
to secure it in place (do not overtighten). Mark the side of the
tank that must face up when installed in the plane, and we also
suggest marking the tubes in the stopper.

❏ 4. Insert the tank into the fuse with the correct side facing

up. The neck of the tank should pass through the hole in
the firewall.

❏ 5. Cut a piece from the included 6mm x 6mm stick to fit

between the spars behind the fuel tank in order to secure
the tank in place as shown. When satisfied with the fit, use
CA to glue the stick in place.

Glow Engine, Fuel Tank & Radio Installation

15

❏ 6. Attach a 6" [150mm] piece of fuel line to each of the

metal tubes in the fuel tank.

❏ 7. Using four 3mm x 16mm machine screws, four 3mm

lock washers and four 3mm flat washers, attach the engine
mount halves inverted to the firewall. The shor t end of the
engine mount halves should face up.

❏ 8. Position the front of the engine drive washer 3-3/4"

[95mm] from the firewall. Mark the location of the engine
mount holes onto the engine mount halves using a Dead
Center™Hole Locator (GPMR8130). Remove the engine
from the mount and use a 3mm tap and drill set to create
threads in the four mounting holes.Attach the engine to the
mount using four 3mm x 20mm SHCS, four 3mm lock
washers, and four 3mm flat washers.

❏ 9. Install the throttle servo into the throttle servo bay

with the servo splines facing the same side of the plane as
the throttle arm on the engine.

16

❏ 10. Cut two 1-1/2" [38mm] pieces from the included 6mm

x 6mm stick. Glue them to the fuse stringers flush with the
fronts approximately 1-1/4" [32mm] behind the stick holding
the fuel tank in place.

❏ 11. Prepare the radio installation by locating the receiver

tray, two rubber bands, receiver, and receiver battery.You

will also need some 1/4" [6mm] or 1/2" [13mm] foam rubber
(not included). Cut a piece of foam rubber that fits your
receiver battery pack and sandwich it between the pack and
the receiver tray. With the pack centered on the top of the
tray (tray is shown upside-down), use a rubber band looped
onto the tray tabs to strap the pack in place as shown.

❏ 12. Fit the receiver tray onto the 6mm x 6mm sticks you

glued in step 9. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole at each end of the
receiver tray into the stic ks.Attach the tray to the sticks using
two 2.5mm x 10mm self-tapping screws. Cut another piece
of foam rubber to fit your receiv er. Secure the receiver to the
tray with the foam rubber between them using the other
rubber band.

❏ 13. Dr ill a 1/8" [3.2mm] hole through the firewall inline with

the throttle arm on the engine. Impor tant!! Do not drill into

17

the fuel tank!The bottom of the tank is 7/8" [22mm] above the
top of the cooling hole cutout.To allow for some error, be sure
that your hole is 5/8" [16mm] or closer to the cooling hole
cutout. If in doubt, remove the tank before drilling your hole.
Drill a hole through the second fuse former inline with the first
(a long drill bit is helpful here). Insert the 1/8" x 9-5/8" [3mm x
245mm] nylon pushrod tube through the holes.Use CA to glue
the tube flush with the front of the firewall.

❏ 14. Cut off the excess pushrod tube 1/2" [13mm] behind

the third fuse former.

❏ 15. Install the .039" x 13-3/4" [1mm x 350mm] throttle

pushrod with Z-bend into the outer pushrod and connect the
Z-bend to your engine throttle arm (you may need to remov e
the arm from the carburetor to do this). Install a screw-lock
pushrod connector into the outer hole of the throttle servo
arm and test fit it onto the servo. A pushrod support is
provided and can be glued to the former just in front of the
throttle servo.Y ou ma y need to sand or cut this part to length
depending on the pushrod position.When satisfied, slide the
support onto the pushrod tube and glue it in place. Tighten
the aft end of the throttle pushrod in the screw-lock pushrod
connector (do not cut off the excess length of pushrod until
you have used your radio system to center the servo and
have made your adjustments to the pushrod length).

❏ 16. Run a bead of medium or thick CA glue along the

brushless motor cooling hole cutout lines. Trim the fuel
tubing to length and connect the vent line to the muffler and
the carb line to the fuel inlet on the needle valve. A plastic
fuel line plug has been provided to plug the fill line if you
installed one.

If you have installed a glow engine, skip this section as it only
contains information relevant to installing a brushless motor.

❏ 1.Cut the perforations along the cooling hole and remove

the cutout.

Out-runner Motor, Battery

& Radio Installation

18

❏ 2. Locate the six brushless motor mount adapter pieces.

Glue the back piece and the four side pieces together as
shown.The tabs on the pieces will all interlock together.

❏ 3. Install four 3mm blind nuts into the motor mount adapter

front piece.Use a 3mm x 10mm screw and a 3mm flat washer
to draw them tight into the holes.

❏ 4. Attach the motor mount adapter to the firewall using four

3mm x 16mm machine screws, four 3mm flat washers and
thread-locking compound.

❏ 5. Install the brushless motor onto the aluminum motor

mount (included with the motor) using four 3mm x 8mm
machine screws (included with the motor) and thread­locking compound.If you haven’t done so already, install the
prop adapter using the hardware included with the motor.
Glue the front adapter piece to the brushless motor mount
box as shown.

❏ 6. Attach the aluminum motor mount to the brushless

motor mount box using four 3mm x 10mm machine screws,
four 3mm lock washers, four 3mm flat washers and thread­locking compound.

❏ 7. Cut a 1-1/2" [38mm] piece from the included 1/4"

[6mm] triangle stock.Glue the piece flush with the top edge
of the fuel tank opening as shown.This will provide a larger
mounting surface for the battery tray.

19

❏ 8. Make a battery strap by cutting the hook and loop

material 7-1/4" [184mm] long, overlapping the ends 1-1/2"
[38mm]. Glue the strap to the underside of the batter y tray
with medium or thick CA as shown.

❏ 9.Glue the battery tray into the fuse by keying the tab into

the third former and resting the forward end on the fuel tank
opening and the triangle stock you glued in step 8. Apply a
liberal amount of medium or thick CA glue to the mating
surfaces to ensure a very secure battery tray. Cut another
piece of triangle stock and glue it against the aft end of the
tray and the former.

❏ 10. Glue the brushless radio tray to the spars in the

location shown.

❏ 11. Cut a piece of 1/4" [6mm] or 1/2" [13mm] foam rubber

(not included) to fit your receiver. Hook one of the included
rubber bands onto the tab on the brushless radio tray and
feed the other end above the tray and out of the throttle
servo bay. Place your receiver and foam rubber onto the
brushless radio tray and loop the rubber band over the
receiver and hook it onto the tab.

❏ 12.Trim the covering from the cooling hole cutout on the

front underside of the fuse.

❏ 13. Locate the three ESC tray pieces. Glue the small pieces

together and then glue them into the slot in the large piece.

20

21

❏ 14. Apply a coating of epoxy to the flat side of the ESC tray

and let it cure undisturbed. The epoxy will provide a smooth
surface for the doub le-sided tape to adhere to .When the epoxy
is dry , glue the tra y onto the top edge of the cooling hole cutout
as shown.

❏ 15. Feed the receiver and battery leads on the ESC

through the left hole in the second former.Connect the ESC
to the receiver and to the motor. If using the recommended
ESC and brushless motor, three 4mm male to 3.5mm
female bullet connector adapters will be needed. Great
Planes offers these adapters for purchase using part
number (GPMM3123).Secure the ESC to the ESC tray with
a piece of the included double-sided foam servo tape.

❏ 16. Now is a good time to test the rotation of the motor

before the cowl and prop are installed. Use your radio
system and battery to temporarily power the motor. If the
motor rotates clockwise when viewed from the front, correct
the rotation by choosing any two of the three motor leads
and reverse their positions.

D.When satisfied, slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over
the adapter up to the base of the male bullet connector.
Use a heat gun or micro torch to shrink the tubing onto the
adapter. If necessar y, trim the excess heat-shrink tubing
from the end of the female bullet connector.

C.With the female bullet in the open end of the male bullet
and the cutouts in both connectors lined up, apply solder
with flux into the cutouts. When applying the solder, it
should appear to flow into the joint and around the ends of
the connectors until the joint is coated. Excess solder is
not necessary as it will simply gather at the bottom of the
joint. Use alcohol to wipe the joint clean.

B.Insert the 3.5mm female bullet connector (the end with the
cutout on the side) into the open end of the 4mm male bullet
connector. Shown in the photo above is the X-Acto®Extra
Hands Double Clip (XACR4214).This tool is extremely useful
for small soldering tasks.

A.In order to make three adapters for one complete brushless
motor system, you will need Great Planes Gold Plated Bullet
Connectors Female 3.5mm (GPMM3113), Great Planes Gold
Plated Bullet Connectors Male 4mm (GPMM3114), electrical
solder with flux, and a soldering iron.

MAKE BATTERY CONNECTOR ADAPTERS

If the Great Planes 4mm male to 3.5mm female bullet
connector adapters are not available, or you would like to
make your own, the assembly procedure and order
numbers for the individual parts are provided below.

The cowl installation is shown on the brushless motor power
system. Installing the cowl over a glow engine is the same.
However, in addition to cutting a cooling hole for the engine
head, you will also need to make a hole f or glow plug access, a
hole to access the needle valve, and a cutout for the muffler.

❏ 1. Put four pieces of tape at least 5" [127mm] long onto

the sides of the fuse (two per side) evenly spaced apart and
parallel with the fuse center line.Make a mark on each piece
of tape in the center of the cowl mounting blocks that are
glued to the sides of the firewall. Draw a line using a
straightedge 4" [102mm] long from each mark.Mark the end
of each line as shown. These lines will be used to drill the
mounting holes for the cowl.

❏ 2. Fit the cowl onto the fuse. Temporarily install the

spinner backplate onto the motor shaft. The backplate may
need to be reamed or drilled out to match the shaft size (1/4"
[6.4mm] for the 35-30-1450 out-runner, 1/4" [6.4mm] for the
O.S.®.25 FX glow engine).Position the cowl so that the front
of it is 3/32" [2.4mm] from the backplate, square and is
centered behind it.When satisfied, tape the cowl in place.

❏ 3. Measure forward 4" [102mm] from the aft marks on the

tape and mark the cowl for the mounting screw locations.
Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the cowl and through the
cowl mounting blocks at each mark.

❏ 4. Remove the cowl and tape from the fuse. Cut the

necessary holes in the cowl appropriate for your power
system. The picture shows a cooling hole for the brushless
motor setup. Thread a 2mm x 8mm self-tapping screw into
each cowl hole in the fuse and remove it. Apply a couple
drops of thin CA into each hole to harden the wood. When
the CA has fully cured, install the cowl onto the fuse using
four 2mm x 8mm self-tapping screws.

❏ 1. The receiver antenna can be taped to the underside of

the fuse. For a cleaner look, we chose to route the antenna
down the inside of the fuse and out the side as shown.T o do
this, we used a long scrap piece of pushrod tube we had in
the shop and inserted it through a small hole drilled beneath
the stabilizer. Slide the tube through the hole toward the
front of the plane going through the cutouts in the formers.
When you reach the receiver with the tube, feed as much of
the antenna into the tube as possible, then pull the tube with
the antenna inside of it out through the hole.

Final Assembly

Install the Cowl

FINISH THE MODEL

22

❏ 2. If you have not done so already , connect the ele v ator and

rudder servos to the receiver.If you are using a transmitter that
does not support mixing, you will also need a dual servo
extension or Y-har ness to join the aileron servos together. If
you have installed a glow engine, an optional switch and
charge jack (not included) can be installed onto the side of the
fuse wherever there is free space. Make sure that it does not
interfere with any of the pushrods.

❏ 3. If you have installed a brushless motor, mix up a small

batch of epoxy and brush a thin coating onto the battery tray.
This will improve the adhesion of the self-adhesive hook and
loop material. When the epoxy has cured, apply the hook
side of the included self-adhesive hook and loop material to
the battery tray (cut to length as needed).

❏ 4. Install the loop side of the included self-adhesive hook

and loop material onto the battery pack.Some packs may be
able to be moved f orw ard or aft to minimize additional weight
added to the plane for balancing purposes. Longer NiMH
packs may ha v e little room to mo v e along the battery tray for

balancing purposes. After the plane is completely
assembled, experiment with the position of the pack if
possible when balancing the plane and mark the optimum
position of the pack onto the battery tray for future ref erence .

❏ 5. Attach the canopy to the fuse with R/C 56 canopy

glue.Use masking tape to hold the canopy in place while the
glue dries.

❏ 6. Install your propeller and the included spinner onto the

motor shaft. Prepare the model for balancing by installing the
wing using two 3mm x 25mm Phillips machine screws and two
3mm flat washers.

23

The Combat Spitfire ARF includes optional landing gear for
those modelers who choose to sport fly the model and
would benefit from using landing gear.The included landing
gear is recommended for paved runways only. If you plan to
fly the Combat Spitfire ARF in combat competition, we
suggest omitting the gear for reduced weight and
increased maneuverability.

❏ 1. Locate and remove the covering from the landing

gear slots on the underside of the wing.

❏ 2. Using four 3mm wheel collars and four 3mm set screws,

temporarily install the wheels onto the landing gear centering
them on the axles.Tighten the set screws against the axles.

❏ 3. Remove the wheels and wheel collars and grind flat spots

on the axles where the set screws made marks from being
tightened. A rotary tool such as a Dremel®with a cut-off wheel
or a metal file can be used to make the flat spots.

❏ 4.Reinstall the wheels onto the axles using the wheel collars,

set screws, and thread-locking compound. Be sure that the
wheels rotate freely. Oil the wheels at the axles if necessar y.Fit
the gear into the slots in the wing. Position four landing gear
straps over the wire, e v enly spaced and at an approximately 45°
angle as shown. Mark the locations for the strap holes onto the
wing and drill 5/64" [2mm] holes at the marks

(be sure not to drill

completely through the wing!)

. Thread a 2.5mm x 10mm self­tapping screw into each hole and remove it. Apply a couple
drops of thin CA glue to each hole to harden the wood.Install the
straps over the landing gear using eight 2.5mm x 10mm self­tapping screws.

❏ 5. Trim the covering from the slot cut into the tail skid.Glue

a 3mm washer into the slot so it is flush with the outside edges
of the tail skid.The washer will prevent the tail skid from rubbing
away when flying from a paved runway.

Optional Landing Gear

24

❏ 6. Trim the covering from the long edge of the tail skid.

Locate the slot for the tail skid tab on the underside of the fuse
and remove the covering. Test fit the tail skid into the slot and
mark the forward and aft ends of the tail skid on the fuse.
Remove the tail skid and cut away the covering between the
marks. Glue the tail skid into position using CA glue.

1. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily
fingerprints and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with
a mixture of liquid dish soap and warm water–about one
teaspoon of soap per gallon of water.Submerse the decal in
the soap and water and peel off the paper backing. Note:
Even though the decals hav e a “sticky-back” and are not the
water transfer type , submersing them in soap & water allo ws
accurate positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

2. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water a wa y.

3. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered.If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.

❏ 3. Make cer tain that the control surfaces and the throttle

respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram.If any
of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the servo
reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos connected to
those controls. Be certain the control surfaces have remained
centered. Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows.If your radio does not hav e
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low

rate setting.

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Apply the Decals

25

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine or
brushless motor, landing gear, and the radio system (and
battery pack if applicable), but with no fuel.

❏ 1. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuse.The C.G.is located 2-3/8" [60mm] back from the LE of
the wing where it meets the fuselage.

❏ 2. With the wing attached to the fuse, all parts of the

model installed (ready to fly) and an empty fuel tank, place
the model upside-down on a Great Planes CG Machine, or
lift it upside-down at the balance point you marked.

❏ 3. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the

battery pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or
weight must be added to the nose to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft or weight must be added
to the tail to balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack
and receiver to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast
required. If additional weight is required, nose weight may
be easily added by using a “spinner weight”(GPMQ4645 for
the 1 oz. [28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g]
weight). If spinner weight is not practical or is not enough,
use Great Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good
place to add stick-on nose weight is to the firewall (don’t
attach weight to the cowl–it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the
model balances. Once you have determined the amount of
weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuse and gluing it permanently inside.

Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off .Use #2 sheet metal screws, R TV silicone or
epoxy to permanently hold the weight in place.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any

weight, recheck the C.G.after the weight has been installed.

This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/8" [3mm] forward or 1/8" [3mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for tak eoff and mak e it more
difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.aft makes the
model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to
become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the
recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not proper ly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Combat Spitfire ARF has been
extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at

which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will
provide you with the greatest chance for successful first
flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way
the Combat Spitfire ARF flies, you would like to change
the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. However, too
much control throw could make the model difficult to
control, so remember, “more is not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 3/8" [9.5mm] up 1/4" [6mm ] up

3/8" [9.5mm] down 1 /4" [ 6 mm] d own

RUDDER: 3/4" [19mm] right 1/2" [13mm] right

3/4" [19mm] left 1/2" [13mm] left

AILERONS: 3/16" [5mm] up 1/8" [3mm] up

3/16" [5mm] down 1/8" [3mm] down

26

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the

model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.

❏ 2.If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means

that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced

will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you fly
somewhere on your own, you should always have your name,
address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your
model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag on the decal
sheet and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries.You should always
charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before
you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the
radio manufacturer.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can also
cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

If the engine is new, follow the engine manufacturer’s
instructions to break-in the engine. After break-in,

confirm that the engine idles reliably, transitions smoothly
and rapidly to full power and maintains full power–indefinitely.
After you run the engine on the model, inspect the model
closely to make sure all screws remained tight, the hinges
are secure, the prop is secure and all pushrods and
connectors are secure.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the engine running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first.Look for loose servo connections or
broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor
solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Range Check

Ground Check

Balance the Propellers

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your

radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15
hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio
system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next
charge may be done using the fast-charger of y our choice.
If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger the
batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be
flying with batteries that are only partially charged.

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

Balance the Model Laterally

27

Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide.Therefore,

do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.

Use safety glasses when starting or running engines.
Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand;the

propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your f ace and body as well as all spectators a wa y from the

plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shir t

sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to star t the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller .Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop
off or otherwise get into the running propeller.

Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after

operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.

To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off
the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to tr y to stop the engine. Do not throw anything
into the propeller of a running engine.

WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!

• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a

NiCd/NiMH peak charger!

• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.

• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge

through the “discharge” lead.

• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.

• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.

• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.

• NEVER trickle charge.

• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed 150° F

[65° C].

• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any way or

puncture cells.

• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.

• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave

unattended during charge or discharge.

• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the complete Safety
Code refer to

Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or

the Code that came with your AMA license.

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air
shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator .I will give right-of-wa y and av oid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models
fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

General

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

LITHIUM BATTER Y HANDLING & USAGE

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

ENGINE / MOTOR SAFETY

PRECAUTIONS

28

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators.Only personnel involv ed with flying
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the

model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.

❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna.
❏ 4. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 5. Use thread-locking compound to secure critical

fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel
axles to the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm
(if applicable), screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.

❏ 6. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will

turn freely.

❏ 7. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 8. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where

appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).

❏ 9. Confir m that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 10. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the

clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the
servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 11. Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the
connection between your battery pack and the on/off
switch with vinyl tape, heat-shrink tubing or special
clips suitable for that purpose.

❏ 12. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have

used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).

❏ 13. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with

high temp RTV silicone, thread-locking compound or
J.B. Weld.

❏ 14. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are

not kinked.

❏ 15. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 16. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 17. Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 18. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and

make sure it is fully charged.

❏ 19. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 20. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

The Combat Spitfire ARF is a great-flying model that flies
smoothly and predictably. The Combat Spitfire ARF does
not, however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced
R/C pilots.

A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture
should be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm
below peak speed. By running the engine slightly r ich, you
will help prevent dead-stic k landings caused by overheating.

Fuel Mixture Adjustments

FLYING

During the last few moments of preparation your mind ma y be
elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual f or complete instructions.Be sure to check
the items off as they are completed.

CHECK LIST

Radio Control

29

Before you get ready to takeoff, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail skid on the
ground. If you need to calm your nerves before the maiden
flight, shut the engine down and bring the model back into
the pits.Top off the fuel, then check all fasteners and control
linkages for peace of mind.

Remember to takeoff into the wind.When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground, then gradually advance the
throttle. As the model gains speed decrease up elevator
allowing the tail to come off the ground. One of the most
important things to remember with a taildragger is to always
be ready to apply right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Gain as much speed as your runway and flying site will
practically allow before gently applying up ele v ator , lifting the
model into the air. At this moment it is likely that you will
need to apply more right rudder to counteract engine torque.
Be smooth on the elevator stick, allowing the model to
establish a gentle climb to a safe altitude before turning into
the traffic pattern.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude.While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Combat Spitfire ARF for the first few
flights, gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain
confidence. Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level
flight. After flying around for a while, and while still at a safe
altitude with plenty of fuel, practice slow flight and execute
practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see
how the model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see
how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing
various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having
your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like.Mind your flight time, but use this first flight
to become familiar with your model before landing.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by k eeping the nose down as
you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground.

One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) y ou already kno w, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve
your skills

(though it is never a bad idea!)

, but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’v e run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do
a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and
make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.

Remember to think.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly

in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Landing

Flight

Takeoff

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,

while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface

flutter

.Flutter occurs when a control surface (such
as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing
the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
flutter can actually cause the control surface to detach or
the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fluttered (so the problem may be
resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fluttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably flutter
again unless the problem is fixed.Some things which can
cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side­play of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;Flying an over­powered model at excessive speeds.

30

Great Planes 1/12 Scale Combat ARFs.

R/C combat flying requires a special breed of pilot…and a
special type of aircraft. Great Planes’ 1/12 scale fighters
meet the criteria perfectly: quick and easy to assemble, very
affordable, and AMA legal.In just 7 to 10 hours you can have
these swift, nimble fliers ready for exciting dogfighting
action. Structures feature prebuilt balsa/ply construction,
factory-covered with high-quality, iron-on film, and come
with a fiberglass cowl, clear canopy, decals and top-notch
hardware.Plus, they’ re compact enough to carry with you f or
spur-of-the-moment fun! Dual aileron servos boost control
authority and speed – important for the precise
maneuverability needed to become a combat “ace,” and a
bonus if you’re just enjoying some warbird-styled sport fun.
Choose the 43.3" span Corsair (GPMA1470) or 38.5" span

P-51 Mustang (GPMA1475) – or get them both!

Great Planes ElectriFly™35-30-1450 RimFire

™

Out-runner Brushless Motor

• Highly efficient and vir tually maintenance-free. Bear ings
are double-shielded and permanently lubricated.

• Installed, gold-plated bullet connectors compatible with
all ElectriFly ESCs.

• Ideal for brushed-to-brushless upgrades and glow-to­electric conversions!

• Prop adapter, motor mount and hardware included.

Powered by rare-earth Neodymium magnets, RimFire out­runner motors produce explosive acceleration in planes ranging
from park flyers to 1.60-size giants! Their high-torque design
eliminates the need for a gearbox, making them the simpler,
lighter and less expensive alternative to a brushed motor and
gearbox. Plus, their innovative housing optimizes cooling,
allowing RimFire motors to produce 50% more performance
power than out-runners of similar size.GPMG4600

O.S.

®

.25 FX Engine

The economical .25 FX engine has dual ball bearings for
durability and smooth operation, plus a low crankcase
profile that allows for a proportionately taller, semi-squared
head to increase cooling fin area. The needle valve is
remotely mounted for pilot safety, and an O-ring and ratchet
spring minimizes “creep” due to air leaks and vibration.
Muffler is included; glow plug required. OSMG0525

ElectriFly by Great Planes 3200mAh Power Series LiPo
Battery with Balance Connector

Ideal for scale aircraft, bigger sport aerobats, 3D planes, and
larger electric models, the Power Series 3200mAh LiPo pack
enables you to enjoy the benefits of balancing. The cells are
conditioned to last longer, and can be fully charged to 4.20V,
ensuring maximum power from the pack. A LiPo Cell Balancer
(like ElectriFly’s Equinox LiPo Balancer GPMM3160) or a
Balancing Charger is required. GPMP0623

OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE

FROM GREAT PLANES

31

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased: _________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG