Great Planes 1045 User Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty

without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, the modeler is
responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high stress points.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE
STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS
IMPORTANT WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS
CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF
THIS MODEL.

GPMZ0225 for GPMA1045 V1.0© Copyright 2000

P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 [phone]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wing Span - 78.5 in
Wing Area - 676 sq in
Weight - 2 lbs
Wing Loading - 7 oz/sq ft
Fuse Length - 39 in

Important Safety Precaution ...........................................2

Introduction ......................................................................2

Precautions.......................................................................2

Preparations......................................................................3

Required Accessories ..................................................3

Building Supplies and Tools.........................................3

Optional Supplies and Tools ........................................3

General Inspection.......................................................3

Building Notes..............................................................3

Metric/Inch Ruler..........................................................3

Parts List ...........................................................................4

Wing Assembly.................................................................5

Tail Assembly....................................................................5

Radio Installation .............................................................7

Canopy Installation ..........................................................9

Final Hookups & Checks ...............................................10

Optional Spoilers........................................................11

Radio Settings ................................................................12

Balance The Model.........................................................12

Checking For Warps ......................................................12

Preflight...........................................................................13

Charge the Batteries..................................................13

Find a Safe Place to Fly ............................................13

Range Check Your Radio ..........................................13

AMA Safety Code (excerpt) ...........................................13

General ......................................................................13

Radio Control.............................................................13

Flying...............................................................................13

Trim Flights ................................................................13

Your First Hi-Start Launch..........................................14

First Flights ................................................................14

Thermal Flying ...........................................................14

Facts About Thermals ................................................14

Thermal Soaring ........................................................15

Pointers For Contest Flying ..........................................15

Slope Soaring .................................................................16

Flying .........................................................................16

Slope Landings ..........................................................16

Ballasting ...................................................................16

Your Spirit ARF is not a toy, but rather a sophisticated,
working model that functions very much like a full-size
sailplane. Because of its realistic performance, the Spirit
ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly
cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage property.

We recommend you get experienced, knowledgeable help
from an instructor with assembly and during your first flights.
You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your model before you’re
ready to solo. Your local hobby shop has information about
flying clubs in your area whose membership includes
qualified instructors.

You can also contact the national Academy of Model
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered
clubs across the country. Through any one of them,
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training
are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free
phone number below:

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302-9252

Tele. [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

The Spirit ARF is a very stable and predictable aircraft,
allowing pilots of differing skill levels to enjoy it.

The Spirit ARF is easy to build, flies great, and would be a
great selection as your first R/C airplane.

1. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
correct.

2. Take time to build straight, true and strong.

3. You must properly install the R/C radio system and other
components so that the model operates properly on the
ground and in the air.

4. You must test the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and you must
make certain that the model has remained structurally
sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often
and replace them if they show signs of wear or fatigue.

Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end
up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Please inspect all parts carefully before starting to build!

YOU CAN CONTACT US...

If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or if you
have any questions about building or flying this

Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top

quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality of
your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore,
we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your
completed model, and no representations are expressed or
implied as to the performance or safety of your completed
model.

PRECAUTIONS

INTRODUCTION

PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THIS

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

2

airplane, please call us at [phone]. You can also
check our web site at www.greatplanes.com for the
latest Spirit ARF updates, or e-mail your questions to:

[e-mail].

If you are calling for replacement parts, please
reference the part numbers and the kit identification
number (stamped on the end of the carton) and have
them ready when calling.

Items in parentheses such as (GPMQ4243) are suggested
part numbers recognized by distributors and hobby shops
and are listed for your ordering convenience. GPM is the
Great Planes brand, TOP is the Top Flite®brand, and HCA
is the Hobbico®brand.

❏ Minimum Two-Channel Radio With Two Servos
❏ Square Receiver Battery Pack (500 mAh)

These are the building tools that are required. We
recommend Great Planes Pro™CA and Epoxy glue.

❏ 2 oz. Pro CA (Thin, GPMR6003)
❏ 2 oz. Pro CA+ (Medium, GPMR6009)
❏ 6-Minute Pro Epoxy (GPMR6045)
❏ Epoxy Brushes (GPMR8060)
❏ Pro Thread Locking Compound (GPMR6060)
❏ Plastic Wrap or Waxed Paper
❏ Isopropyl Alcohol (70%)
❏ Mixing Sticks (GPMR8055)
❏ Round Toothpicks
❏ Hobby Knife, #11 Blades
❏ Small Hobby Clamps
❏ Clothes Pins
❏ String
❏ Builders Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❏ Masking Tape (TOPR8018)
❏ 1/2" [13mm] Latex Foam Rubber Padding

(HCAQ1050)

❏ Paper Towels
❏ Felt-Tip Marker
❏ Wire Cutter
❏ Drill Bits: 5/64" [2mm], 3/32" [2.5mm]

❏ CA Applicator Tips (HCAR3780)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Sealing Iron (TOPR2100)
❏ Single-Edge Razor Blades (HCAR0312)
❏ Curved Tip Canopy Scissors For Trimming Plastic

Parts (HCAR0667)

Remove the fuselage, wing panels, rudder assembly and
stabilizer assembly from their bags. Inspect all items closely
to check for any damage. If any damage is found, contact
the place where your Spirit ARF was purchased, or Hobby
Services, to obtain a replacement for your damaged items.
If any of the control surfaces are attached, simply pull them
apart and store the hinges in a safe place until it is time to
re-attach them.

Your Spirit ARF is covered using Top Flite MonoKote

®

covering. Eliminate any wrinkles you find in the covering by
shrinking them away with a heat gun. Then, apply pressure
to the area with a covering iron and a hot sock. This will
securely bond the covering to the wood so the wrinkles will
be less likely to reappear in the future.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. It is understood
that the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when
the airplane is right side up and will be referred to as the
“top” even if the model is being worked on upside-down.

Building Notes

General Inspection

Optional Supplies & Tools

Building Supplies & Tools

Required Accessories

PREPARATIONS

3

Inch Scale

0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale

4

Key# Description Qty

1 Fuselage 1
2 Left Wing Panel 1
3 Right Wing Panel 1
4 Canopy 1
5 Cockpit 1
6 Front Canopy Brace 1
7 Bottom Canopy Brace 1
8 Rear Canopy Brace 1
9 Heat Shrink Tubing 4
10 Trailing Edge Brace 1
11 Servo Rails 2
12 Wing Dowels 2
13 Metal Hardware 1 Bag
14 Nylon Hardware 1 Bag
15 Pushrod Wires 2
16 Hardwood Pushrod Dowels 2
17 Wing Joiners 3
18 Fin 1
19 Stabilizer 1

Replacement Parts

If needed, replacement parts for your Spirit

ARF

are

available

through your hobby supplier.

Wing Kit .............................................................GPMA2176

Fuselage Kit ......................................................GPMA2177

Tail Set...............................................................GPMA2178

Canopy Set........................................................GPMA2179

Parts List

2

3

1

7

19

18

4

5

10

14

12

8

6

9

13

11

16

15

17

❏ 1. Use either epoxy or thick CA to glue one of the 1/16"

[1.5mm] aluminum joiners to the 1/8" [3mm] balsa joiner.
Apply as much pressure (clamps, clothes pins, weights,
etc.) as possible while the glue is curing and be sure to line
up the two pieces accurately. Glue the other 1/16" [1.5mm]
aluminum joiner to the other side of the 1/8" [3mm] balsa
joiner using the same procedure.

❏ 2. Check the fit of the wing joiner in the wing panels.

Remove
any excess material from the joiner to allow the panels to fit
together. The joiner does not have to be glued into the wing.
This will allow the wing panels to be separated for easier
transportation.

❏ 3. Mark and remove a small area of the covering on both

wings for the 1/8" x 1" x 1-5/8" [3mm x 25mm x 41mm]
plywood trailing edge plates. Glue the plates onto the wing
with thick CA.

❏ 1. Find and open the holes in the stabilizer covering for

the attachment screws. Attach the stabilizer to the fuselage
using two 2mm x 15mm screws, two 2mm nuts and four
2mm washers. Use thread lock on the nuts to prevent
loosening.

TAIL ASSEMBLY

WING ASSEMBLY

5

❏ 2. Open the holes on the top and bottom of the fuselage

covering for the fin attachment. Attach the fin using two
2mm washers and two 2mm nuts. Use thread lock on the
nuts to prevent loosening.

❏ 3. Install the wing dowels using medium or thick CA.

Center the dowels in the fuselage before gluing.

❏ 4. Join the rudder to the fin using the following

procedure:

❏ ❏ A. Drill a 3/32" [2.5mm] hole, 1/2" [13mm] deep, in the

center of the hinge slot. If you use a Dremel®MultiPro™for
this task, it will result in a cleaner hole than if you use a
slower speed drill. Drilling the hole will twist some of the
wood fibers into the slot, making it difficult to insert the
hinge, so you should reinsert the knife blade, working it back
and forth a few times to clean out the slot.

❏ ❏ B. If the hinges don’t remain centered, remove the

rudder

and insert a pin in the center of the hinges.

❏ ❏ C. Attach the rudder to the fin using three hinges.

Make
sure there is approximately a 1/64" [.04mm] gap between
the rudder and the fin.

6

❏ ❏ D. Add six drops of thin CA to the center of the hinges

on both sides. Use a paper towel to absorb excess CA from
the hinge gap before it cures. Do not use CA accelerator;
allow the CA to cure slowly.

❏ 5. Use the same hinging method to join the elevators to

the stab.

❏ 6. Position one of the nylon control horns up 1/2"

[13mm] up from the bottom of the rudder. Align the horn
parallel to the bottom of the rudder. Drill two 3/32" [2.5mm]
holes through the rudder using the horn as a guide. Harden
the holes using two or three drops of thin CA. Attach the

nylon

control horn to the rudder using two 2mm x 15mm screws.

❏ 7. Position the remaining control horn in line with the

center

of the fuselage on the bottom of the elevator. Attach

the

control horn to the elevator using two 2mm x 15mm

screws.

❏ 1. Slide one hardwood 3/8" x 1/4" x 2" [9.5mm x 6mm x

50mm] servo rail into its slot in the fuselage doubler. Slide
it all the way forward and glue it in place with thick CA. Slide
the other servo rail into place and then slide it all the way aft.
Do not glue it yet! Position one of your servos in place and
use it to position the rear servo rail. Do not push the rear
servo rail tight against the servo, but rather leave about a
3/32" [2.5mm] gap between the servo “body” and the aft
servo rail. This will provide enough room to install and
remove the servos without removing the rails. Glue the rear
servo rail in place.

RADIO INSTALLATION

7

❏ 2. Install the servos using the hardware included with

your

radio system.

❏ 3. Install the receiver, battery and switch. Use foam to

cushion
the receiver and battery. Extend the antenna to the rear of
the fuse.

Note: If you are installing spoilers, mount the spoiler servo
where the receiver is shown in the photo. It can be mounted
on servo rails, or with servo tape. The receiver is then
placed behind the servos used for the rudder and elevator.
Cut three arms off an X-type servo horn and mount a small
screw in the outer hole. Adjust the servo and your
transmitter so the horn is almost pointing toward the rear of
the plane when your transmitter stick is in the “spoilers

closed”

position. The horn should rotate toward the front of the plane
when the transmitter stick is moved to the “spoilers open”
position. (Note: The spoiler servo arm is shown in the “up”
position.)

❏ 4. Make a 90º bend 1/4" [6mm] from the non-threaded

end in each of the pushrod wires as shown in the sketch.
Wipe off each wire using a paper towel dampened with
rubbing alcohol to remove any oil. Make the same 90º bend
in all four of the threaded and non-threaded pushrods.

❏ 5. Cut the pushrods from the hardwood dowels. The

elevator
pushrod dowel should be 13" [330mm] long and the rudder
pushrod dowel should be 11" [280mm] long.

❏ 6. Drill a 5/64" [2mm] hole 1" [25mm] in from both ends

of each pushrod. Cut a groove in the dowel from the hole to
the end of the dowel.

❏ ❏ 7. Insert one threaded piece of wire into each

pushrod.
Insert the remaining pieces of wire into the other end of each
pushrod. Tack glue the wires in place with a couple drops of
CA. Repeat the procedure to attach the non-threaded
pushrod wires to the opposite end of the pushrod dowels.

❏ 8. Use the heat shrink tubing at the end of the pushrod

to hold everything in place as shown in the photo. Apply a
few drops of thin CA to each end of the heat shrink tubing to
secure it.

8

❏ 9. Install the rudder pushrod. Thread a clevis 14-turns

onto the pushrod. Attach the clevis to the control horn. Bend
the pushrod as necessary to allow for free movement.

❏ 10. Install the elevator pushrod. Thread the clevis onto

the pushrod. Attach the clevis to the control horn. Trim the
opening at the rear of the fuselage as necessary to allow the
pushrod to move freely.

❏ ❏ 11. Center the rudder and servo arm. Mark the

pushrod
wire at the servo arm. Bend the wire up at the mark. Cut the
wire 5/16" [8mm] below the bend. Secure the pushrod to the
servo arm with a nylon FasLink. Make sure the wire will not
bind against the servo case. Repeat the process for the
elevator pushrod.

❏ 1. Place the small hardwood dowel into the front

canopy

brace. Remove the covering for the dowel in the front of the

fuselage. Install the dowel into the hole.

❏ 2. Place a piece of wax paper between the bottom

canopy brace and fuselage. Glue the bottom canopy brace

to the front canopy brace with CA. The wax paper will

prevent
the braces from accidentally being glued to the fuselage.
Note: If you are planning on using the optional spoilers, you
must remove the shaded area to allow for servo movement.

❏ 3. With the wax paper still in place, glue the rear canopy

brace to the bottom canopy brace with CA. Note: If you are

planning on using the optional spoilers, you must remove
the shaded area to allow for servo movement.

CANOPY INSTALLATION

9

❏ 4. Trim the cockpit. Use CA to glue the cockpit to the

canopy
braces. Glue the dowel to the front canopy brace, allowing it
to protrude 3/8" [9.5mm] out front.

❏ 5. Paint the cockpit with the color scheme of your choice.

Test the paint you are going to use on a piece of the plastic
you cut off to make sure it will not affect the plastic. Regular
plastic model paints usually work well for this. Do not paint
the edges of the cockpit where the canopy will attach or the
glue will not hold as well. Striping tape can be used to cover
that seam. Lightly sand the edges to help the canopy

adhere.

❏ 6. Set the cockpit inside the canopy and line the cockpit

up with the scribe lines in the canopy. The scribe lines are
only for reference while positioning the cockpit. Do not try to
get the cockpit to fit the scribe lines. Glue the canopy to the
cockpit using medium CA. Use the glue very sparingly. Hold
the cockpit in place inside the canopy and apply glue a drop
at a time to the seam. The glue will seep in along the seam
and provide a nice, clean glue joint. Work your way around
the canopy and don’t get in a hurry or you may get too much
glue in there and it will run down the canopy. Be careful not
to twist or move the cockpit once you start gluing it in place.

❏ 7. Test fit the canopy onto the fuselage. Trim the canopy

flush with the base and the front but do not trim the back
yet! Curved tip scissors works well for trimming the canopy.
Temporarily mount the wing in place on the fuselage. VERY
CAREFULLY trim the back of the canopy, A LITTLE AT A
TIME, to fit over the wing. Take your time and use the

outlines and the wing for guides.

❏ 1. Attach the threaded tow hook to the bottom of the

fuselage
by threading a 3mm nut and a 3mm washer all the way
onto the tow hook. Tighten the tow hook into the front blind
nut for the first flights. With the tow hook threaded almost all
the way into the blind nut, make sure the tow hook is facing
straight back and tighten the 3mm nut to secure it. After the
first flights the tow hook can be moved back to the center
hole for most flying conditions. For contest flying you may
want to try the rear hole as it can help achieve a higher
launch but be careful as the sailplane will be more apt to
“Pop-Off” the line.

Note: A piece of self-adhesive foam rubber weather

stripping
can be applied to the front of the fuselage bottom to help
protect it from getting nicked up during landings.

❏ 2. The canopy is held in place with a rubber band. Loop

a
medium size rubber band through the cut-out in the canopy
back. Thread the rubber band through itself and then hook it
on the little extension on the former. To remove the canopy,
pick up on the back until the dowel is clear of the fuselage.
To re-install the canopy just do the opposite.

Note: If you are planning on installing the optional spoilers,
a brace may be necessary to attach the rubber band to
the canopy.

FINAL HOOKUPS & CHECKS

10

Note: Since the spoiler installation is optional, none of the

hardware has been included.

❏ ❏ 1. Use a hobby knife to cut a hole in the bottom of the wing

sheeting for the spoiler tubing to exit the wing as

shown.

❏ ❏ 2. Pull the end of the spoiler tubing out of the wing just

far

enough to glue it in place using thick CA.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut the covering all around the edge of the spoiler

and

remove it from the wing panel.

❏ ❏ 4. Tape the spoiler in position in the wing using a strip

of cellophane or vinyl tape or a strip of covering. The tape
should be flexible enough to allow the spoiler to close on its
own. The tape should also be replaced occasionally as it will
eventually rip.

❏ ❏ 5. Thread a 42" [1070mm] length of braided fishing

line (not included) through the spoiler tubing in the wing.

❏ ❏ 6. Thread one end of the line through the small hole

in the spoiler horn and use a piece of a round toothpick to
hold the line in the horn. Allow about 1/2" [13mm] to hang
out the other side of the horn for fine adjustments. It may be
necessary to drill out the spoiler control horn using a 3/32"
[2.5mm] drill bit. Trim the shear web to allow the toothpick to
pass through without interference.

❏ ❏ 7. Glue a small lead weight on the bottom side of the

spoiler to help it close. 1/4 – 1/2 oz. is usually enough since
the airflow will keep the spoilers closed when the plane is
flying. Repeat steps 1 through 7 for the opposite spoiler.

❏ 8. Mount the wing onto the fuselage and pull the ends of

the spoiler strings up to the spoiler servo. Position the

spoiler
servo horn at the rearward end of its swing and wrap one
spoiler string around the screw in the horn. With the spoilers
held closed, apply a drop of CA to glue the string to itself,
forming a small loop. Remove that string and do the same
steps to the other string. The two strings should be the same

Optional Spoilers

11

length (be careful not to glue the two strings together) and
the spoilers should open and close together. Adjustments
can be made at the toothpick end if needed.

Use the sketch to make sure the control surfaces are
moving the correct directions.

The control throws are as follows:

Elevator 1/2" [13mm] up

1/2" [13mm] down

Rudder 1-1/2" [38mm] left

1-1/2" [38mm] right

Spoilers 90º to the upper surface of the wing

Note: This section is VERY important and must not be
omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be

unstable and possibly unflyable.

Accurately mark the balance point on the bottom of the wing
on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point is located

3-1/4" [83mm] back from the leading edge. This is the
balance point at which your model should balance for your
first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
balance up to 5/16" [8mm] forward or back to change the
flying characteristics. Moving the CG forward of the spar will
add some stability but it will decrease the overall
performance of the sailplane. Moving the balance behind
the spar makes the model more agile with a lighter and
snappier “feel” and improves the sailplane’s response to air
currents. In any case, please start at the location we
recommend and do not at any time balance your model
outside the recommended range.

With the wing attached to the fuselage, and all parts of the
model installed (ready to fly), lift the model by picking it up
with a finger on each bottom inner spar. If the tail drops
when you lift, the model is “tail heavy” and you must add
weight to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, it is “nose
heavy” and you must add weight to the tail to balance. The
model should hang with a slight nose down attitude. Add
BB’s or lead to the weight compartment at the front of the
fuselage to correct a tail heavy model. In the unusual
circumstance that you would have a nose heavy model, you
can switch the receiver and battery or even move the
receiver behind the servos. Getting the weight farther back
helps correct the “nose heaviness.”

This is a very important step and should be done
occasionally throughout the flying season. A sailplane’s

wing is most efficient when it is not twisted or warped at all.
“Washout” (wing trailing edges twisted up at the tip) helps
make a poor wing design fly better by adding some stability
(preventing stalls) at slow speeds but it cuts down on the
wing efficiency at normal speeds. The SPIRIT ARF’s wing is
designed to fly well at slow speeds without any washout,
and therefore we recommend you check to make sure the
wings are “flat” using the following procedure:

Set the wing so an inner panel is resting on a flat surface.
Any warp (twist) will show up by causing a corner of the
panel to rise off the work surface.

To remove the warp, gently twist the wing in the opposite
direction while a helper glides an iron or heat gun over the
covering on both the top and the bottom of the panel to
re-shrink the covering. Hold the twist until the covering cools
and then recheck for warps. It may take several tries to get
a warp out but it is worth it as you will end up with a sailplane
that flies straight and true and responds to air currents like
a high performance sailplane should.

Follow the same procedure to check all four wing panels
and then go back and double check them. Sometimes you
put a warp in one panel while trying to fix another. You
should also look at the tail surfaces as they too can warp.

CHECKING FOR WARPS

BALANCE THE MODEL

RADIO SETTINGS

12

Follow the battery charging procedures in your radio
instruction manual. You should charge your transmitter and
receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other
times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

The best place to fly your R/C model is an AMA (Academy
of Model Aeronautics) chartered club field. Ask your hobby
shop dealer if there is such a club in your area and join. Club
fields are set up for R/C flying which makes your outing
safer and more enjoyable. The AMA can also tell you the
name of a club in your area. We recommend that you join
AMA and a local club so you can have a safe place to fly and
also have insurance to cover you in case of a flying
accident. (The AMA address is listed on page 2 of this
instruction book).

If a club and its flying site are not available, you need to find
a large, grassy area at least 6 miles away from any other
R/C radio operation and away from houses, buildings and
streets. A schoolyard may look inviting but it is usually too
close to people, power lines and possible radio interference.

If you are not thoroughly familiar with the operation of R/C
models, ask an experienced modeler to check to see that
you have the radio installed correctly and that all the control
surfaces do what they are supposed to.

Wherever you do fly, you need to check the operation of the
radio before every time you fly. This means with the
transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and
transmitter on, you should be able to walk at least 100 feet
away from the model and still have control. Have someone
help you. Have them stand by your model and, while you
work the controls, tell you what the various control surfaces
are doing.

Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
Aeronautics Official Safety Code excerpt:

General

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in competition or in the
presence of spectators until it has been proven to be

airworthy

by having been previously successfully flight tested.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right of way to, and avoid flying in

the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary an
observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

Radio Control

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment

ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators
until I become a qualified flyer, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit,
spectator and parking areas, and I will not thereafter perform
maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a
pit, spectator or parking area.

First of all, if you are flying with other flyers check to
make sure they are not flying or testing on the same
frequency as your model.

Try to find an experienced pilot to help you with your
first flights. Although the SPIRIT is very easy to fly, an

experienced pilot can save you a lot of time and possible
aggravation by helping you get your model in the air
smoothly.

It is a good idea to do a couple of trim flights before each
flying session to make sure the plane is still in trim and the
radio is working properly. The model will survive a hard
landing from 5 feet much better than it will one from several
hundred feet. The first few trim flights should be done over
a grass field. The longer the grass the better (more

cushion).

Turn on the transmitter first and then the receiver. Hold the
SPIRIT ARF under the wing with the nose pointed slightly

Trim Flights

FLYING

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)

Range Check Your Radio

Find a Safe Place to Fly

Charge the Batteries

PREFLIGHT

13

down and directly into the wind as shown in the photo. It is
very important that you launch the model with the wings
level and the nose pointing at a spot on the ground about 50
feet in front of you. Have a friend stand off to the side of you
and tell you whether the nose is pointing up or down. Show
your friend the picture above so he will know what to look
for. If the sailplane is launched with the nose up or launched
too hard it will climb a few feet, stall and fall nose first
straight down. With the nose pointed down slightly the
sailplane will accelerate down until it picks up enough flying
speed then level off and glide forward. The plane should be
launched with a gentle push forward. With a little practice
you will be able to launch it at just the right speed so it soars
straight ahead in a long and impressive glide path. Adjust
the trims on your transmitter to get the plane to fly straight
ahead in a smooth glide path.

Once you get the hang of launching it you can try turning the
plane during the trim flights by gently applying a “touch” of
right or left rudder. You can also try “flaring” the landings by
slowly applying a touch of up elevator (pull the stick back) as
the plane nears the ground. The SPIRIT ARF will continue
to fly just a few inches off the ground for a surprisingly long
distance. It is important you don’t “over-control” the model.
Make any control inputs slowly and smoothly rather than
moving the transmitter sticks abruptly.

A hi-start is the most popular way to launch your SPIRIT
ARF. It consists of 25' – 100' of rubber tubing and 200' – 400'
of string with a parachute or streamer at the end. One end
of the rubber is staked down directly upwind of the launch
point. One end of the string is attached to the other end of
the rubber and the end of the string with the parachute has
a loop or ring and is attached to the tow hook on the
sailplane.

Follow the directions that came with the hi-start and lay it out
directly into the wind. Place the stake at the far upwind
edge of the flying field so the parachute will blow back onto
the flying field.

Turn on your transmitter and then your receiver and hook
the parachute onto your plane’s tow hook. Pull the plane
back approximately twice as far as the rubber is long (i.e.,
100' of rubber = pull back 200') or whatever the hi-start
instructions state. A “fish scale” is handy for determining the
correct amount of pull. For your first flights pull the plane
back until there is approximately 8 lbs. of tension. More
tension can be used after you get acquainted with the
launching procedure.

Hold the plane above your head with the wings level and
the nose pointed slightly up and directly into the wind.
Give the plane a healthy push forward to get it flying and it
will climb up like a kite. You should not have to touch the
elevator during the launch but use the rudder stick to keep
it going straight up. As the rubber relaxes the plane will fly
off the hi-start and the parachute will bring the end of the
string back towards you.

Find a BIG, OPEN field for your first flights. The bigger the
better as you won’t have to worry about where you need to
land. Ground based objects (trees, poles, buildings, etc.)
seem to attract model airplanes like a magnet. Again, we

would like to recommend that you find an experienced
pilot to help you with these first flights.

Note: You need to remember that your radio control
responds as if you were sitting in the cockpit. When you
push the transmitter stick to the right, the rudder moves
to the plane’s right! This means that when the plane is
flying towards you it may seem like the rudder controls
are reversed (when you give “right” rudder the plane
turns to your left–which is the plane’s “right”). It is

sometimes easier to learn to fly the plane if you always face
your body in the direction the plane is flying and look over
your shoulder to watch the model.

Don’t worry about accomplishing very much on your first
flights. Use these flights to get the “feel” of the controls and
the SPIRIT ARF’s flying characteristics. Try to keep the
plane upwind and just perform some gentle “S-turns”
(always turning into the wind) until it is time to set up for
landing. Have a helper adjust the trims on your transmitter
(a little at a time) until the plane will fly straight and level with
the transmitter sticks in their neutral positions. It can be very
hard for a beginner to fly a plane straight towards him as he
would have to do if the plane were downwind and every
mistake takes the plane a little farther downwind. When it is
time to land, just continue performing the gentle “S-turns”
upwind and let the plane glide onto the ground. Don’t worry
about where the plane lands–just miss any trees, etc.

Practice flying directly into the wind (upwind of yourself)
without letting the plane get off course, and then turn and
come downwind until the plane is even with you and try it
again. When you are comfortable with flying directly into the
wind, start letting the plane go behind you (downwind) a little
before you start back upwind. Continue this until you can fly
directly towards you from downwind without getting
disoriented. At this point you can start to establish a “landing
pattern” and bring the sailplane in for a landing from
downwind. This enables the plane to be flown as slowly
(ground speed) as possible for accurate landings.

Thermal soaring is one of the most intriguing of all aspects
of flying and the SPIRIT ARF was designed to excel at
thermal soaring even in the hands of a novice. It can be hard
for the average person to understand how a plane can fly for
hours and gain altitude without a motor!

Thermals are a natural phenomenon that happen outside,
by the millions, every single day of the year. Thermals are
responsible for many things including forming several types
of clouds, creating breezes, and distributing plant seeds and
pollen. If you have ever seen a dust devil (which is nothing

Facts About Thermals

Thermal Flying

First Flights

Your First Hi-Start Launch

14

more than a thermal that has picked up some dust), you
have seen a thermal in action. Their swirling action is very
similar to that of a tornado but of course much gentler. Most
thermals have updrafts rising in the 200 – 700 feet per
minute range but they have been known to produce updrafts
of over 5,000 feet per minute (that’s over 50 miles/hour

straight
up!) These strong thermals can rip a plane apart or carry the
plane out of sight before the pilot can get out of the updraft.

Thermals are formed by the uneven heating of the earth and
buildings, etc. by the sun. The darker colored surfaces
absorb heat faster than the lighter colors which reflect a
great deal of the sun’s energy back into space. These darker
areas (plowed fields, asphalt parking lots, tar roofs, etc.) get
warmer than the lighter areas (lakes, grassy fields, forests,
etc.). This causes the air above the darker areas to be
warmer than the air over the lighter areas and the more
buoyant warm air rises as the cooler, denser air forces its
way underneath the warmer air. As this warm air is forced
upward it contacts the cooler air of the higher altitudes and
this larger temperature difference makes the thermal rise
quicker. The thermal is gradually cooled by the surrounding
cooler air and its strength diminishes. Eventually the thermal
stops rising and any moisture contained in the once warm
air condenses and forms a puffy cumulus cloud. These
clouds, which mark the tops of thermals, are usually
between 2000 and 5000 feet high.

It takes a lot of concentration to thermal soar effectively. A
sailplane can fly along the edge of a thermal and unless the
pilot is carefully watching the model he may not realize the
opportunity to gain some altitude. Because most thermals
are relatively small (a couple hundred feet in diameter or
less at 400' altitude) compared to the rest of the sky, the
sailplanes will rarely fly directly into the thermal and start
rising. Generally, the sailplane will fly into the edge or near
a thermal and the effects the thermal has on the plane may
be almost unnoticeable. As the sailplane approaches a

thermal,
the wing tip that reaches the rising air first will be lifted
before the opposite wing tip. This causes the plane to “bank”
and turn away from where we would like the plane to go.

When you are thermal soaring, try to fly as smoothly and
straight as possible. Trim the plane to fly in a straight line
and only touch the controls when you have to. Watch the
sailplane carefully and it will tell you what it is encountering.

When the sailplane flies directly into a thermal it will either
start rising or stop sinking. Either case is reason enough to
start circling (especially in a contest where every second
counts). Fly straight ahead until you feel like you are in the
strongest lift, fly a couple of seconds farther (so your
circle will be centered in the strongest lift) and then start
circling in a fairly tight but smooth turn. When the sailplane
is low the turns have to be tighter to stay in the strongest lift.
As the plane gains altitude, the turns can be larger and
flatter. The flatter the turn, the more efficient the plane is
flying, but don’t be afraid to really “crank” it into a steep bank
when you are low. If you see the plane falling off on one side
of the turn, move your circle over into the stronger lift.
Thermals move along with the wind so as you circle you will
be swept along with it. Be careful when thermaling, that you

don’t get so far downwind you can’t make it back to the field
to land.

If the sailplane is flying along straight and all of a sudden
turns, let the plane continue to bank (you may have to give
it some rudder to keep it banking) until it has turned 270-

degrees
(3/4 of a full circle). Straighten out the bank and fly into
whatever turned the plane. If you encounter lift, and you
won’t every time, start circling just as you did when flying
directly into a thermal.

Thermals are generated all day long, but the strongest
thermals are produced when the sun is directly overhead.
10:00 am – 2:00 pm seems to be the best time to get those
“killer” thermals. Some of these thermals can be very large
and you may find it hard to get out of them. If you find
yourself getting too high, don’t dive the plane to get out of
the lift. Sailplanes are very efficient aircraft and they will
build up a lot of speed and could “blow up” in the rough air
of a thermal. The easiest way to lose altitude is to apply full
rudder and full up elevator. This will put the plane into a tight
spin that will not over stress the airframe but it will enable it
to lose altitude very quickly. This is especially helpful if the
sailplane gets sucked into a cloud or it gets too high to see.
The twirling action will give the sun a better chance of
flashing off of the wing and catching your attention. When
you are high enough and want to leave the thermal, add a
little down trim to pick up some speed and fly 90 degrees to
the direction of the wind. If you are not real high and want to
find another thermal, you may want to look upwind of the
last thermal. The same source that generated this thermal is
probably producing another. Just watch out for “sink” which
is often found behind and between thermals.

As you might expect, with all this air rising, there is also air
sinking. This air is the sailplane pilot’s nightmare that can
really make soaring challenging. “Sink” is usually not as
strong as the thermals in the same area, but it can be very
strong. Down drafts of many hundreds of feet per minute are
common on a good soaring day. These down drafts can
make a sailplane look like it is falling out of the air. Because
of this, it is important that you do not let the sailplane get too
far downwind.

When encountering sink, immediately turn and fly 90
degrees to the direction of the wind (towards you if
possible). Apply a little “down elevator” and pick up some
speed to get out of the sink as fast as possible. Every
second you stay in the sink is precious altitude lost.

Pay Attention! – Pay close attention to the sailplanes flying
before you, watch them and try to establish where and when
the thermals are being formed. Thermals are often formed in
cycles and can be fairly regular, so if you keep track of the
time intervals you will have a pretty good idea of when and
where a thermal may be generated.

Watch The Birds! – Thermals suck up small insects that
many birds love to eat. A bunch of swallows flying around in
one area may indicate a thermal. Soaring birds (hawks,
vultures, eagles etc.) are the best thermal indicators. They
not only show you where the thermal is but they also show

POINTERS FOR CONTEST FLYING

Thermal Soaring

15

you where the center is. These “Masters of the Sky” will
often fly right along with sailplanes.

Practice Those Landings! – Most thermal contests are
won or lost during the landing. Establish a particular landing
pattern and try to stick to it for all landings. Learn to shift
your pattern to account for the wind and particular flying field
characteristics. Spoilers can be very useful during contest
landings. They allow you to bring the sailplane in for a
landing higher or faster than normal to guard against any
last minute sink or gusts and dump the extra altitude and
speed at the last second. They can also be used to help
control your skid. Opening the spoilers will stop the plane
from sliding a little quicker. You can also “steer” the plane
while it is sliding along the ground. Don’t expect to be able
to “horse it around” but you can gain valuable inches by
using the rudder to guide it toward the spot as it slides to a
stop. Be very careful not to “ground loop” the plane since
you will lose your landing points if the plane flips over.

Concentrate – Keep your eye on your sailplane during your
contest flights. Have a helper or your counter watch the
other sailplanes in the air. Sometimes your sailplane will
wiggle so quickly or gently that you may miss it if you are not
paying close attention. If you find a productive thermal, don’t
leave it because your helper tells you that someone else has
found a different one.

Know Your Sailplane! – Learn what your sailplane will and
won’t do and fly within this envelope. This will allow you to
ride thermals downwind while knowing when you have to
head back to make your landing safely.

Learn From The Wind! – Keep track of which way the wind
is blowing. If the wind suddenly shifts, there is some thermal
action fairly close to you. The air is probably being either
sucked up into a thermal or falling out of some sink. In either
case it is often a good idea to fly in the direction the wind is
blowing if your sailplane is in the general area. This will take
you towards a thermal if there is one or away from the sink,
both of which are desirable.

Slope soaring is a type of flying that is very popular in hilly
regions and along the coasts. This type of soaring is
possible when the wind is blowing directly up a hill or cliff. As
the wind hits the slope it is forced up, producing lift which
can be utilized by real sailplanes, hang gliders, birds and
even model sailplanes.

To be able to slope soar, you need a slope with a smooth
piece of land (or water) out in front of it and a breeze blowing
pretty close to straight up the slope. The higher and steeper
the hill or cliff the better. Also the larger and smoother the
land out in front the better. The air flowing along hits the hill,
is forced up and can generate a very large area of lift.
Behind the hill is a large area of turbulent air that can be
very dangerous to try to fly in. The faster the wind is blowing,
the stronger the lift and turbulence will be.

To fly off a slope, stand near the edge and throw the
sailplane (nose down) into the wind. As the sailplane flies
out into the “band” of lift it will begin to gain altitude. Turn
and fly parallel to the slope and make all of your turns into
the wind (especially when you are close to the slope). You
will be surprised at the altitude you can gain just from slope
lift. Thermals will often be “popped loose” by these slopes. If
you catch a thermal and follow it downwind, be very careful
to stay high enough to make it back to the slope without
flying through the turbulent air behind the slope. If you don’t
have enough altitude you may want to land a good distance
behind the slope if possible to avoid this turbulent air.

Landings can be very tricky on some slopes. On gentle
slopes you can often fly very close to the top of the slope
and “slide” into the top of the slope without encountering any
turbulent air. On steeper slopes you may have to be a little
more aggressive to get the plane out of the lift. In any case

it

is a good idea to plan your landing before launching your

plane.

In strong wind conditions, you may want to add ballast
(weight) to the sailplane to increase its wing loading which
increases its normal flying speed. Increasing the weight of
your sailplane does not change its “glide ratio” but it does
make it fly faster which makes it sink a proportional amount
faster. Because of this faster sink rate, you need to be very
cautious when ballasting for a thermal contest. In duration
type contests only use ballast on very windy days that also
have a lot of thermal activity.

Add the weight as near as possible to the C.G. of the plane.
Adding 6 – 8 oz. will make a noticeable difference in the
sailplane’s flying speed and more can be added later, if
needed. Make sure to recheck the C.G. of the plane after
adding ballast–it should remain where it was.

Have a ball! Remember to always stay in control and fly
in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Ballasting

Slope Landings

Flying

SLOPE SOARING