Global Hobby Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP Instructions For Final Assembly

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

Product Part Number 128419

The Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley , CA 92708

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

Specifications:

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Wing Span: 30.75 Inches

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Wing Area: 174 Square Inches

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Length: 26.75 Inches

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Weight RTF: 17 - 18.5 Ounces

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle

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Power: 380 Direct Drive Motor w/5 x 2.5 Propeller

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Radio: 4 Channel Micro w/3 Servos & 15 AMP ESC

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning......................................................................................2

Introduction............................................................................................3

Section 1: Our Recommendations.......................................... 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ................................ 5

Section 3: Kit Contents ........................................................... 6

Section 4: Replacement Parts ................................................ 7

Section 5: Metric Conversion Chart........................................ 7

Section 6: Motor Break-In ....................................................... 8

Section 7: Fuselage Assembly ............................................... 9

Section 8: Wing Assembly & Mounting ................................ 13

Section 9: Stabilizer Installation............................................ 20

Section 10: Tail Wheel & Rudder Installation ....................... 25

Section 11: Control System Installation ............................... 27

Section 12: Main Landing Gear Installation ......................... 32

Section 13: Canopy Installation ............................................ 34

Section 14: Final Assembly................................................... 35

Section 15: Balancing the P-51 Reno Racer EP ................. 38

Section 16: Control Throws................................................... 38

Section 17: Preflight Check & Safety ................................... 39

Section 18: Flying the P-51 Reno Racer EP........................ 41

Product Evaluation Sheet ...................................................................35

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Wattage guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Wattage's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Wattage has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the new Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP Features:

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380 Size Direct Drive Motor w/5 x 2.5 Nylon Propeller

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Fast and Agile Flight Characteristics - Handles Light Wind with Ease

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Blow-Molded Plastic and Molded Foam Construction for Light Weight and Easy Repairs

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Can Take Off from the Ground or Can Be Hand Launched

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Generous Hardware and Custom Decal Sheet Included

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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 70 High Resolution Digital Photos Included

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the

small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly,

please contact us at the address below:

Wattage Customer Service

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

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SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes the items you will need to purchase for your new P-51 Reno Racer EP. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.

IMPORTANT

When choosing accessories for your P-51, such as servos, ESC, and receiver , it's very important to t ake the weight of these items into consideration. Remember, the lighter the overall weight of the finished airplane, the better the airplane will fly.

What Servos Do I Use?

The servos you use should be the lightest available, yet still have an adequate amount of torque. We suggest using servos that weigh no more than 0.19 ounces and have a torque rating of no less than 7.0 ounces per square inch.

What Receiver Do I Use?

The receiver should be as light as possible, preferably 1/2oz. or less. Most four-channel micro receivers would be a good choice. If you plan on using the Hitec 555 Micro receiver, we suggest removing the case to reduce the receiver's weight. If you do remove the case from your receiver we strongly suggest wrapping the receiver with heat-shrink material to protect the internal components.

What Electronic Speed Control Do I Use?

The ESC you choose should be capable of handling 10-15 amps continuous current. Again, lighter is better. Your ESC should weigh no more than 1 ounce including the wiring and switch.

Note: Although a 10 amp ESC may work with our recommended battery, motor and propeller, it is at the low end of the scale.

Since some customers may wish to experiment with other motors, batteries and propellers, chances are a 15 amp ESC will then be necessary because of higher current draw; therefore, we recommend just starting with a higher-capacity ESC.

What Flight Battery Do I Use?

To get good flight performance you need to use the right type of flight battery. You need a flight battery that can deliver enough voltage and be able to handle current draw up to approximately 10 amps. Through much testing on this power system, we have found the 8 cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH battery pack delivers the best performance in terms of weight, power and duration. You certainly could use NiCD battery packs - they will give you more power, but they are heavier and offer much less duration than NiMH batteries. Depending on how you fly the airplane, the trade-off between higher weight and less duration may not be worth the extra power.

Note: At the time of this writing, NiMH batteries cannot withstand current draw about 10 - 12 amps. If you use our included 380

size motor and 5 x 2.5 propeller, current draw will not be a problem. However, if you experiment with larger propellers or different motors, the current draw may be too much for NiMH batteries. If this is the case, you will need to use NiCD batteries in your airplane. NiMH battery technology is evolving quickly, so in the future they may be compatible with high-draw power systems.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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Here's What We Used to Finish Our P-51 Reno Racer EP:

P/N 759118 Hitec 555 Micro Receiver

Hitec Dual Conversion FM RX Crystal P/N 444052 Cirrus CS-10 Super-Micro Servos (3) P/N 128484 Wattage IC-15A Micro ESC P/N 128538 Wattage 8 Cell 800Mah 5/4AAA NiMH Flight Battery P/N 130103 Wattage 7-8 Cell AC/DC Peak Charger P/N 625085 Dean's Ultra-Plug Battery Connector

Note: To minimize current loss, we suggest soldering the motor wires directly to the ESC.

We also suggest replacing the stock Tamiya connector that is likely preinstalled on your ESC and flight battery with a more efficient Dean's Ultra-Plug battery connector.

P/N 131175 Wattage 14 Gauge Hi-Temp Silicon Wire

3M 3/4" Wide Clear Plastic Tape - Available at Most Hardware Stores

IMPORTANT

The part numbers listed for the Hitec receiver, Cirrus servos and Wattage ESC are compatible with Hitec and JR (receiver is compatible with Hitec only) radio control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems. (Micro 555 receiver is also available for Airtronics, Futaba and JR radio systems.)

When you purchase the Hitec Micro 555 receiver, you must also purchase a Hitec brand crystal compatible with the receiver. The cryst al must also be on the same frequency as your transmitter . Note that the Micro 555 receiver uses a dual conversion FM Hitec crystal.

SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ Lightweight Oil or Vaseline ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ .050 Hex Wrench ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473 ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801

To break in the motor you will need:

❑ Emerald Performance Plus Motor Spray # 340186 ❑ Trinity Motor Break In Drops # 840768 ❑ Rubber Bands

❑ Scissors ❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205 ❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron # 598120 ❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing ❑ Solder

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

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SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly , group the parts like we list them below . This will ensure that you have all of the p arts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at the address below:

Wattage Customer Service

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Left & Right Wing Panels ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer & Rudder

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLIES

❑ (2) Prebent Main Landing Gear Wires ❑ (1) Tail Wheel Assembly ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheels ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheel Retainers ❑ (2) Rubber Bands ❑ (2) Nylon Main Landing Gear Mounts ❑ (2) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws

MISCELLANEOUS STABILIZER PARTS

❑ (1) 305mm Fiberglass Dowel ❑ (1) 320mm Self-Adhesive White Tape ❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire ❑ (1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ (1) Stabilizer Mounting Board - 4 Parts ❑ (2) Nylon Hinges ❑ (12) 1.5mm x 4mm Wood Screws

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Center Section Reinforcement Board ❑ (1) Trailing Edge Reinforcement Board ❑ (1) Molded Plastic Radiator Scoop ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 40mm Plywood Plate ❑ (1) 30mm Fiberglass Dowel ❑ (1) 3mm x 18mm Wood Screw

MOTOR ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 380 Size Motor ❑ (1) 5 x 2.5 Nylon Propeller ❑ (1) Motor Mounting Plate ❑ (1) Threaded Shaft Adapter Assembly ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly - Front & Back ❑ (2) 2mm x 4mm Machine Screws

CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES

❑ (2) 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Wires ❑ (2) 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Wires ❑ (2) Prebent Aileron Torque Rods ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (4) Nylon Clevises ❑ (1) Aileron Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (1) Molded Clear Canopy ❑ (1) Plywood Radio Tray ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 45mm Plywood Plate ❑ (2) 3mm x 10mm x 20mm Plywood Plates ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 60mm Plywood Plate ❑ (1) Nylon Battery Tie-Down Strap ❑ (2) 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (2) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws ❑ (1) Double-Sided Foam Tape ❑ (1) Decal Sheet

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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WARNING

The P-51 Reno Racer EP is constructed of foam. It is very important that you use no solvents, Cyanoacrylate (C/A) glue, or paint that can damage foam. If any of these chemicals comes in contact with the foam parts, the parts will be destroyed and will not be covered under warranty. Use only epoxy on the foam parts where glue is required. If you decide to add painted details to the airplane, use acrylic-based paints and always test the paint on a scrap piece first.

We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the foam to melt and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system, ESC or batteries.

SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS

Wattage stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your P-51 Reno Racer EP. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Wattage products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

Wattage P-51 Reno Racer - Complete - 128419 Instruction Manual - 145276 Wing Set - 145277 Fuselage Set - 145278 Stabilizer Set - 145279 Canopy & Radiator Scoop - 145280 Motor Mounting Plate w/Screws - 145281 Main Gear Assembly - 145282

SECTION 5: METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in

1/64" = .4mm 1/32" = .8mm 1/16" = 1.6mm 3/32" = 2.4mm 1/8" = 3.2mm 5/32" = 4.0mm

3/16" = 4.8mm 1/4" = 6.4mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 3/4" = 19.0mm

Tail Wheel Assembly - 145283 Aileron Control Linkage - 145284 Decal Sheet - 145285 Elevator & Rudder Control Linkage - 145309 Spinner Assembly - 145310 5 x 2.5 Nylon Propeller - 131380 380 Size Motor - 131388

1" = 25.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 3" = 76.2mm 6" = 152.4mm

21" = 533.4mm 24" = 609.6mm 30" = 762.0mm

36" = 914.4mm 12" = 304.8mm 18" = 457.2mm

Visit our website at http://watt-age.globalhobby.com for information on other Wattage products

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SECTION 6: MOTOR BREAK-IN

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) 380 Size Motor

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Paper Towels ❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron ❑ Solder

IMPORTANT

Before installing the motor into the fuselage it must first be broken in. This accomplishes two very important things: breaking in the motor will maximize its performance, and, most importantly, you will be able to verify that the motor is working properly before installing it into the airplane. It is strongly suggested that you not skip this important section.

To break in the motor, it is recommended that the motor be run for at least 10 minutes without a propeller at a voltage of less than 5 volts - a 4 cell receiver battery pack works great for this. The low voltage will keep the motor from overheating while the brushes and bushings seat. Please follow the procedures below for proper motor break-in.

❑ Emerald Performance Plus Motor Spray ❑ Trinity Motor Break In Drops ❑ Rubber Bands

Step 1: Installing the Motor Wires

❑ Solder two 6" long 14 gauge hi-temp silicon motor wires (not included) to the positive and negative terminals on the back of the motor.

Step 2: Breaking In the Motor

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

The terminal with the red dot next to it is the positive

☞

terminal.

❑ Set the motor between the handles of a pair of wire cutters and secure the motor to the handles using several rubber bands. This will keep the motor secure enough for the break-in procedure.

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❑ Before operating the motor, apply a couple of drops of Break In Drop s to the motor bushings. (One at the front and one at the back of the motor.)

❑ Operate the motor using a fully charged 4 cell battery pack and allow the motor to run for about 8 - 10 minutes. After 8 - 10 minutes, remove the battery pack and spray Motor Spray into the motor (through the two holes in the side of the motor) to clean the brushes. Apply more Break In Drops to the bushings and run the motor for another 3 - 5 minutes.

❑ After 3 - 5 minutes, remove the battery pack from the motor and spray the brushes clean with Motor Spray. Apply a couple of drops of Break In Drops to the bushings and wipe the motor clean using a paper towel.

❑ Now that you've completed breaking in the motor, remove the motor and set it aside for installation later.

SECTION 7: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) 380 Size Motor ❑ (1) Motor Mounting Plate ❑ (2) 2mm x 4mm Machine Screws ❑ (1) Plywood Radio Tray

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Installing the Motor

❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 45mm Plywood Plate ❑ (2) 3mm x 10mm x 20mm Plywood Plates ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 60mm Plywood Plate ❑ (1) Nylon Battery Tie-Down Strap ❑ (2) 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ 1/8" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, outline the portion of the wing

saddle that needs to be removed for access to the inside of the fuselage. For strength, there should be 3/8" of material left between the fuselage sides, 3/4" in front of the back of the wing saddle and 3/8" behind the front of the wing saddle as shown.

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❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the wing saddle along the outline you drew.

Instead of trying to cut through the plastic in one pass,

☞

it's easier to make several shallow cuts. It also helps to use a very sharp knife blade.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the molded "button" flush from the front of the fuselage.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut open the air-intake scoop below the motor mounting area.

❑ Hold the motor mounting plate against the front of the fuselage, centering the outer edge of the plate with the outer edge of the fuselage.

❑ While holding the motor mounting plate in place, use a pencil to mark the locations of the two mounting holes onto the front of the fuselage.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut two 1/8" wide slots from the center hole out beyond the two marks you drew.

We do not suggest drilling the two motor mounting holes.

☞

They are so close to the center hole that keeping them aligned while drilling will be difficult.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

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Step 2: Installing the Plywood Radio Tray

❑ Mount the motor to the fuselage using the motor plate and two 2mm x 4mm machine screws. Tighten the machine screws firmly to hold the motor securely in place.

Because of the length of the nose, it's easiest to drop the

☞

motor into the front of the fuselage and hold it by the shaft while installing the plate and screws.

❑ Using thick C/A, glue the two 3mm x 10mm x 20mm plywood plates to one side of the 3mm x 20mm x 60mm plywood plate, making sure to position the two plates as shown. This assembly is referred to as the "mounting plate."

The rear plate is even with the back edge of the larger

☞

plate (straight edge) and the front plate is 1/4" behind the front of the larger plate (rounded edge).

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of the mounting plate smooth and even.

IMPORTANT

Before gluing the mounting plate to the radio tray in the next procedure, it's important that the two small plates are glued to the radio tray, not the larger plate.

❑ Using thick C/A, glue the mounting plate to one side of the radio tray. The mounting plate should be centered down the middle of the radio tray and the back edge of the mounting plate should be 3/8" in front of the square servo cutout.

❑ Install the nylon battery tie-down strap through the two precut holes in the front of the radio tray as shown.

Notice that the ends of the tie-down strap are toward the

☞

side opposite the mounting plate. This is important.

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❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and mark the locations of the two wood screws used to hold the radio tray in place. The screws are located on the centerline of the fuselage (the mold seam), 1/4" in front of the back edge of the cockpit and 2" in front of the back edge of the cockpit.

❑ Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill a hole through the fuselage at each of the two locations you marked.

❑ Place the radio tray into the fuselage and position it as

shown. When aligned properly , the mounting plate should fit into the molded cockpit recess and the rounded corners on the front of the mounting plate should be pushed against the front of the cockpit recess.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the radio tray and apply a bead of silicon to the bottom of the mounting plate.

Step 3: Installing the Plywood Wing Screw Plate

❑ Set the radio tray back into place and realign it.

❑ Install and tighten the two 3mm x 10mm wood screws to

secure the radio firmly to the fuselage.

It's not necessary to drill pilot holes in the mounting plate

☞

for the wood screws.

❑ Test-fit the 3mm x 20mm x 45mm plywood plate to the underside of the wing saddle as shown. The plate should be centered and even with the front of the cutout

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an email to service@globalhobby.net

Page 13

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the plate and thoroughly sand the gluing surface on the underside of the wing saddle to roughen the plastic. Do not omit this procedure or the adhesive will not stick to the plastic.

❑ Glue the plywood plate into place using a thick bead of silicon. Push the plate firmly against the wing saddle until silicon begins to squeeze from the joint, and remove any excess using a paper towel.

IMPORTANT

When gluing anything to the molded plastic fuselage, we strongly suggest using only silicon or epoxy. Use of C/A is not recommended. C/A dries brittle so it tends to break loose from the plastic under minimal stress. It is also very import ant

to roughen the plastic before gluing anything to it. This helps the adhesive stick much better.

SECTION 8: WING ASSEMBLY & MOUNTING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) Left & Right Wing Panels ❑ (1) Center Section Reinforcement Board ❑ (1) Trailing Edge Reinforcement Board ❑ (1) Molded Plastic Radiator Scoop ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm x 40mm Plywood Plate

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ 5/64", 7/64", 1/8" and 5/16" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler

Step 1: Cutting Out the Ailerons

❑ (1) 30mm Fiberglass Dowel ❑ (1) 3mm x 18mm Wood Screw ❑ (2) Prebent Aileron Torque Rods ❑ (1) Aileron Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts

❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Carefully flex the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinge line.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to cut out the aileron on the second wing panel.

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❑ Turn one wing panel upside down, so the molded groove is facing up toward you.

❑ Use a modeling knife and a ruler to carefully cut out the inner and outer end of the aileron at each end of the groove.

Make the cuts perpendicular to the trailing edge of

☞

the wing.

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Step 2: Joining the Wing Panels

❑ Test-fit the two wing panels together. They should fit together with few or no gaps between the two, and the leading and trailing edges should line up evenly.

If the wing panels don't fit together properly, carefully

☞

sand the root ends of each wing panel straight using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, being careful not to change the dihedral angle.

IMPORTANT

Before gluing the wing panels together in the next procedure, it's important to know that the top of the wing should be straight across (flat). You can easily achieve this by gluing the wing panels together upside down on your building table.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy and carefully apply a thin layer to the root ends of both wing panels.

WARNING

For maximum wing strength, make sure to cover the entire surface of each root end.

❑ Fit the wing panels back together and realign them. Remove any excess epoxy that squeezes out of the joint using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the wing panels together firmly until the epoxy sets up - about 10 minutes.

Before the epoxy sets up, double-check that the top of

☞

the wing is flat.

❑ After the epoxy has cured, apply a strip of clear plastic tape (not included) to the top of the wing, over the center section joint, from the leading edge to the trailing edge.

❑ Trim the ends of the tape flush with the wing using a modeling knife.

❑ Using the same technique, apply a strip of clear plastic tape over the center section joint on the bottom of the wing.

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Page 15

❑ Apply two long strips of clear plastic tape to the bottom of the wing. Apply the strips of tape down the middle of the wing, perpendicular to the center section joint, from wing tip to wing tip.

These strips of tape help strengthen the wing. Do not

☞

omit this procedure.

Step 3: Installing the Aileron Torque Rods

❑ Test-fit each prebent torque rod into the molded grooves in the top of each wing panel. The top of each torque rod should be even with the top of the wing.

There is a left and right torque rod. Note that the longer, smooth end of the torque rods goes into the ailerons.

☞

IMPORTANT

So the torque rods lay flat in the molded grooves, you may need to carefully cut the strip of clear tape where it crosses over the grooves.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and use it to glue the torque rods into ONLY the ailerons as shown. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

WARNING

Do not glue the torque rods to the wing or to the leading edge of the ailerons. If you do this, the ailerons will be glued solid and won't be able to pivot up and down.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, apply one piece of aileron reinforcement board onto each aileron to secure the torque rods firmly into place.

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Page 16

Step 4: Installing the Wing Reinforcement Board

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the trailing edge of the wing straight so that the wing will fit into the wing saddle.

Check the fit often with the fuselage so you don't remove

☞

too much material.

❑ Using a modeling knife and a ruler , cut a 1/4" x 1/2" hole in the middle of the trailing edge reinforcement board.

This hole will prevent the reinforcement board from

☞

interfering with the aileron torque rods.

IMPORTANT

Before installing the trailing edge reinforcement board in the next procedure, make sure that both aileron torque rods are completely down in the molded grooves.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the trailing edge reinforcement board.

❑ Carefully apply the reinforcement board to the top of the wing, making sure the board is centered over the centerline of the wing and the back edge of the board is even with the trailing edge of the wing.

❑ Flex the ailerons up and down several times to make sure the torque rods are not sticking to the reinforcement board.

❑ Carefully remove the protective backing from the wing reinforcement board.

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Page 17

Step 5: Mounting the Wing to the Fuselage

❑ Carefully apply the reinforcement board to the top of the wing, making sure that it's centered over the wing's centerline and that the back edge of the reinforcement board is about 1/8" in front of the trailing edge reinforcement board.

It's very important to the integrity of the wing that the

☞

reinforcement board be adhered to the wing along its entire surface.

❑ Glue the 3mm x 20mm x 40mm plywood plate to the bottom of the wing using a thin layer of 5 minute epoxy. The plate should be centered over the wing's centerline and the back edge of the plate should be even with the trailing edge.

It's important that the plate be centered over the wing's

☞

centerline. If it's not, the radiator scoop will not align properly with the fuselage when it's installed later.

❑ Carefully drill a 7/64" diameter hole, 3/4" deep, in the center of the leading edge of the wing, making sure to drill the hole straight and not at an angle.

IMPORTANT

Take care to drill the hole exactly in the center of the leading edge. It helps to first make a small pilot hole using the tip of your modeling knife.

❑ T est-fit the 30mm long fiberglass dowel into the hole. The dowel should be pushed into the hole deep enough so that 3/8" of it is beyond the leading edge. It is also important that the dowel be straight and not angled up, down or side to side.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, glue the dowel into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the dowel in place and aligned until the epoxy sets up.

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Page 18

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully mark the location of the wing dowel hole at the front of the wing saddle. The hole should be located on the centerline of the fuselage (the mold seam) and 7/16" up from the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, make a small pilot hole in the fuselage at the mark you drew.

❑ Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the fuselage, using the pilot hole as your guide.

When drilling the hole, try to drill it parallel with the

☞

bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Place the wing into the wing saddle and push the trailing edge down firmly into place.

Double-check that the dowel in the leading edge of the wing fully engages the hole in the fuselage. You may have to

☞

push the wing forward firmly and/or make fine adjustments to the hole so that the front of the wing sets properly in the wing saddle.

❑ Carefully align the centerline of the wing (the center joint), at the trailing edge, with the centerline of the fuselage (the mold seam).

❑ While holding the wing firmly in place and aligned, drill a 5/64" diameter hole into the middle of the plywood plate and down through the wing screw plate glued inside the fuselage.

❑ Remove the wing from the fuselage and enlarge only the hole in the wing using a 1/8" drill bit.

❑ Place the wing back into the wing saddle and secure it into place using the 3mm x 18mm wood screw.

Do not overtighten the screw. You don't want to crush the wing.

☞

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Page 19

Step 6: Installing the Plastic Radiator Scoop

❑ Using a pair of scissors, cut out the radiator scoop along its molded base, leaving about 3/32" of material to use as a gluing surface. Cut out the back of the radiator scoop along the molded scribe line, too.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, sand the edges of the radiator scoop smooth and straight.

❑ T est-fit the radiator scoop to the bottom of the wing. There should be a 1/16" gap between the back edge of the scoop and the fuselage, and the sides of the scoop should be even with the sides of the fuselage.

❑ While holding the radiator scoop in place and aligned, use a pencil to carefully mark the location of the wing screw onto the bottom of the scoop.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the radiator scoop and carefully drill a 5/16" diameter hole through it so you can access the wing screw.

❑ Test-fit the radiator scoop onto the wing once more to double-check that the hole lines up over the wing screw.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces

on the bottom of the radiator scoop.

❑ Set the radiator scoop back into place and realign it. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the scoop in place until the epoxy sets up.

WARNING

Be careful not to get any epoxy between the wing and the fuselage!

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Page 20

SECTION 9: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer & Rudder ❑ (1) 305mm Fiberglass Dowel ❑ (1) 320mm Self-Adhesive White Tape

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ (1) Prebent Elevator Joiner Wire ❑ (1) Elevator Reinforcement Board - 2 Parts ❑ (1) Stabilizer Mounting Board - 4 Parts ❑ (12) 1.5mm x 4mm Wood Screws

❑ Masking Tape ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Installing the Fiberglass Dowel

A fiberglass dowel is provided to strengthen the horizont al stabilizer . For the strongest joint possible, it's important that the dowel be installed correctly. When installing the dowel, two things are very important: the dowel should be glued along its entire length (making sure it is pushed firmly into the precut channel) and the stabilizer must be flat when you glue the dowel into place. This will ensure you don't build a warp into the stabilizer.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer inside the precut channel in the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Line up the ends of the dowel with the ends of the stabilizer and carefully push the dowel into the channel. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use short pieces of masking tape to hold the dowel in place until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT

When gluing the dowel into place it's important that the dowel be glued securely into the channel and that the stabilizer be perfectly flat during the drying process.

❑ After the epoxy has cured, remove the pieces of masking tape and carefully sand the ends of the dowel even with the ends of the stabilizer.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the 320mm long piece of white tape and apply the tape to the bottom of the stabilizer , over the fiberglass dowel. Trim the ends of the tape even with the ends of the stabilizer using a modeling knife.

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Page 21

Step 2: Installing the Elevator Joiner Wire

❑ Place the prebent elevator joiner wire onto the bottom of the elevator halves.

❑ Center the wire over the middle of the elevator halves,

making sure that the front of the wire is even with the beveled leading edges of the elevators.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, push the wire down firmly to make an impression of the wire in the foam.

❑ Remove the wire and set it aside.

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, carefully cut a very

shallow groove in each elevator half using the impression left in the foam as a guide.

Don't cut too deeply. You don't want to cut through the

☞

top of the elevators.

❑ Test-fit the joiner wire into the elevators. When pushed into place, it should be flush with the bottom of the elevators and fit firmly in the grooves.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and carefully glue the joiner wire into place. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the elevators flat until the epoxy sets up.

IMPORTANT

During the drying process, double-check that the elevator halves are both flat on your work table.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, carefully apply one piece of elevator reinforcement board over each end of the elevator joiner wire.

IMPORT ANT

Make sure each piece covers the entire end of the joiner wire.

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Page 22

Step 3: Installing the Stabilizer Mounting Board

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, draw a centerline across the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, perpendicular to the trailing edge.

Make sure the centerline is exactly in the center of the

☞

stabilizer.

❑ Using a pencil, draw a centerline mark on the front and back edges of both pieces of horizontal stabilizer mounting board (the two tapered-shaped pieces). These marks will help you align the mounting board with the centerline of the stabilizer.

IMPORTANT

Before installing the mounting board in the next procedure, look at the shape of the two pieces carefully.

end of each piece should be toward the trailing edge of the stabilizer.

❑ Remove the two pieces of mounting board from the protective backing.

❑ Apply the two pieces of mounting board to the top and bottom of the horizontal stabilizer. The back edge of each piece should be even with the trailing edge of the stabilizer, and the centerline marks you drew on the front and back of the mounting board should line up with the centerline you drew on the top and bottom of the stabilizer.

❑ Apply the remaining two pieces of stabilizer mounting board to each side of the vertical stabilizer. The back edge of each piece of mounting board should be 1/4" in front of the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the bottom of each piece should be even with the bottom of the stabilizer.

The narrower

Step 4: Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer

Do not epoxy the stabilizer to the fuselage. Because of the plastic that the fuselage is molded from, even roughening the surface will not allow the epoxy to adhere strong enough to hold the stabilizer securely . Screwing the stabilizer into place, while different from other models, actually works very well and results in a very secure joint.

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Page 23

❑ Cut out each of the three stabilizer mounting slots in the back of the fuselage. The easiest way to do this is to first carefully sand the outside of the slots until the edges of the flanges begin to show through. At this point the plastic will be thin enough that you can easily cut out the remaining plastic with a modeling knife.

You will need to cut a slot in the back of the fuselage so

☞

that the stabilizer can be slid into place.

❑ Using a 1/16" drill bit, carefully drill eight holes through the horizontal stabilizer mounting flanges. Drill two holes through the top and bottom of each of the flanges. The rear holes should be 3/8" in front of the back of the fuselage and the front holes should be 1-7/8" in front of the back of the fuselage.

Drill the holes nearer the fuselage sides. This will ensure

☞

the screws don't miss the mounting board when you install them later.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully trim away the plastic burrs left from drilling the holes.

❑ Mount the wing securely to the fuselage, then slide the horizontal stabilizer into place. Push the stabilizer as far

forward as possible and align the outer edges of the reinforcement board with the outer edges of the mounting flanges.

❑ With the wing mounted to the fuselage and the stabilizer in place, look carefully from the front of the fuselage at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use a modeling knife and/or 220 grit sandpaper and adjust the mounting flanges until the correct alignment is achieved.

It may be necessary to use thin shims between the flanges

☞

and the stabilizer to align it properly to the wing.

❑ Now check to make sure that the tips of the stabilizer are equal distances from the tips of the wing. Use a ruler and measure from one wing tip to the stabilizer tip on the same side. Do this for both sides. When the stabilizer is aligned properly, both of these measurements should be the same.

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Page 24

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place.

❑ Using the tip of your modeling knife, make very small

pilot holes in the stabilizer moun t i n g board u s i n g the h o l e s you drilled in the mounting flanges as a guide.

❑ Install and lightly tighten the eight 1.5mm x 4mm wood screws to hold the stabilizer firmly in place.

Be careful not to overtighten the screws or you will strip

☞

the mounting board.

Step 5: Installing the Vertical Stabilizer

❑ Slide the vertical stabilizer into place and align it. When aligned properly , the back edge of the stabilizer should be even with, and at the same angle as, the back of the fuselage. The angle cut into the front of the stabilizer should also be even with the molded angle in the top of the fuselage.

❑ With the vertical stabilizer in place, look carefully from the front of the airplane to check that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. If it does not line up, use a modeling knife and/or 220 grit sandpaper to trim the mounting flanges until the correct alignment is achieved.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, install the vertical stabilizer using the same technique as the horizontal stabilizer . The only difference is the locations of the holes for the screws. The two rear holes should be 5/8" in front of the back of the fuselage and the two front holes should be 2-1/2" in front of the back of the fuselage.

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Page 25

SECTION 10: TAIL WHEEL & RUDDER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) Tail Wheel Assembly ❑ (2) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Lightweight Oil or Vaseline ❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler

❑ (2) Nylon Hinges

❑ Pencil

q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Hinging the Rudder

If you plan on strictly flying your P-51 Reno Racer off of grass we suggest not installing the tail wheel assembly. It won't be necessary for landing on grass.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand a shallow V-shaped bevel in the leading edge of the rudder.

This will allow right and left movement of the rudder while

☞

keeping the hinge gap to a minimum.

WARNING

Make sure you sand the bevel into the leading edge and not the trailing edge.

❑ Hold the rudder against the vertical stabilizer, making sure the top of the rudder is even with the top of the stabilizer.

❑ Using a pencil, mark on the leading edge of the rudder, the area that must be removed to clear the elevator joiner wire.

IMPORTANT

Before making the cutout in the next procedure, it's important that you leave at least 1/2" of material between the bottom of the rudder and the bottom of the cutout for the elevator joiner wire. This will ensure that there is room to install the tail wheel wire and the rudder control horn.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the portion of the rudder to clear the elevator joiner wire.

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Page 26

❑ Measure down 1/2" from the top of the rudder, at the leading edge, and draw a mark. Measure down 2-1/2" from the top of the rudder, at the leading edge, and draw a mark.

❑ Carefully hand-drill a 1/16" diameter hole into the rudder, for the hinges, at each mark you drew.

Be careful to drill the hole perpendicular to the leading edge and not at an angle. Also be careful that you don't drill out

☞

through the side of the rudder.

❑ Apply a thin layer of lightweight oil or Vaseline to the pivot point of each hinge.

❑ Mix a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and glue the two hinges into only the rudder. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up.

Push the hinges into the rudder far enough so that one-

☞

half of the pivot point is recessed into the leading edge.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, pivot the hinges back and forth several times to loosen the pivot points.

❑ Align the rudder with the vertical stabilizer and carefully mark the locations of the two hinges onto the stabilizer.

❑ Carefully hand-drill a 1/16" diameter hole into the stabilizer at each mark you drew.

❑ Apply a thin layer of lightweight oil or Vaseline to the pivot point of each hinge.

❑ Hinge the rudder to the stabilizer, using 5 minute epoxy.

Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up.

When hinged properly, there should be little or no gap

☞

between the rudder and the stabilizer.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, pivot the rudder back and forth several times to loosen the hinges' pivot points.

Step 2: Installing the Tail Wheel Assembly

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a thin slot in the bottom of the rudder, deep enough for the tail wheel tiller arm to be pushed down into.

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Page 27

❑ Place the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of the fuselage. T o align the assembly , the tail wheel tiller arm should fit down into the slot you cut in the rudder, the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line and the bracket should be centered in the middle of the fuselage.

You will need to cut a small notch in the leading edge of

☞

the rudder for the tiller arm boss.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, remove the tail wheel assembly and apply a couple of drops of lightweight oil or Vaseline to only the pivot point of the tiller arm.

❑ Mix a small a small quantity of 5 minute epoxy and use it to glue only the tiller arm into the bottom of the rudder. Before the epoxy sets up, carefully secure the the plastic bracket to the fuselage using the two 2mm x 5mm wood screws provided.

Make small pilot holes for the wood screws using the tip of your modeling knife.

☞

SECTION 11: CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (2) 1.5mm x 150mm Threaded Wires ❑ (2) 1.5mm x 400mm Threaded Wires ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Installing the Elevator & Rudder Servos

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (4) Nylon Clevises

❑ Electric or Hand Drill ❑ 1/16" & 1/8" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the

servo mounting lugs.

When installing the collets, make sure the flanges are

☞

toward the bottom of the mounting lugs.

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Page 28

❑ Test-fit the two servos into the radio tray. If the servos are too large to fit, use a modeling knife to enlarge the hole in the radio tray to accommodate the servos.

Both of the servos' output shafts should face toward the

☞

front of the fuselage.

❑ Mount the servos using the servo mounting screws provided with your servos. To make it easier to install the screws, use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot holes in the radio tray.

Step 2: Installing the Nylon Control Horns

❑ Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill the elevator and rudder pushrod exit holes through the back of the molded fairings in the sides of the fuselage.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 3/8" from the inside edge of the right elevator half (at the hinge line) and draw a mark on the bottom of the elevator.

This mark is how far out the nylon control horn needs to be installed on the elevator.

☞

❑ Use a pencil to mark the location and size of the slot that

needs to be cut through the elevator to install the nylon control horn. T o make this easy , use the control horn backplate as a guide as shown.

So the control horn lines up properly with the pushrod,

☞

the slot needs to be angled slightly toward the fuselage side.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a slot through the elevator only large enough for the tip of the control horn to be pushed through.

❑ From the top of the elevator, push the control horn up through the slot. When in place, the tip of the control horn should face the bottom of the elevator.

❑ Making sure that the flat portion of the control horn backplate faces away from the elevator, push the backplate over the end of the control horn until you hear it "click" firmly into place.

Because the elevator is thick, we cut a recess in the

☞

elevator so that the backplate could be attached without crushing the foam.

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Page 29

❑ Install the rudder control horn using the same method as the elevator control horn. The centerline of the control horn should be 1/4" up from, and parallel to, th e bottom edge of the rudder.

The cut that you make in the rudder to install the control

☞

horn will be right below the portion of the tail wheel wire that's glued into the rudder.

As with the elevator control horn, we recessed the rudder control horn backplate so it would snap easily into place.

☞

Also note that the tip of the rudder control horn is opposite the elevator control horn.

Step 3: Installing the Elevator & Rudder Pushrods

❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper slots in your receiver. Plug the ESC lead into your receiver and plug the flight battery into your ESC . Turn on your radio system and center both of the servos using the elevator and rudder trim levers on the transmitter.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two 1.5mm x 400mm threaded pushrod wires. Thread the clevises on far enough to leave room for adjustments later.

❑ Working with one pushrod wire for now, slide the plain end of the pushrod wire through the pushrod exit hole in the fuselage side, then carefully snap the clevis into the elevator control horn.

❑ Place a "single arm" servo horn onto the elevator servo (the servo on the opposite side of the elevator control horn), making sure that the servo horn is centered and points toward the fuselage side. The arm should have at least two holes in it.

❑ With both the servo horn and the elevator centered, use a pencil to draw a mark on the pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.

If you're using Cirrus CS-10 servos this will be the first

☞

hole in the servo arm.

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Page 30

❑ Using Magnum Z-Bend Pliers, make a Z-Bend in the pushrod wire at the mark you drew and use wire cutters to remove the excess wire.

❑ Remove the servo horn. Using a 1/16" drill bit, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.

❑ Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bend, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure it's centered.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw , provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ Install the rudder pushrod wire using the same technique as with the elevator pushrod wire. The Z-Bend should be installed into the hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn as well.

IMPORTANT

So that the two pushrod wires don't touch each other where they cross inside the fuselage, install the rudder pushrod wire so that the long portion of the wire is on the opposite side of the servo arm from the elevator pushrod wire. Doing this will put the pushrods at slightly different heights, so they won't rub against each other.

❑ Double-check that the elevator and rudder are still centered. If they are out of adjustment, remove the clevises and readjust them until you are satisfied with the alignment. Unplug and turn off your radio system.

Step 4: Installing the Aileron Servo

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the servo mounting lugs.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure back 2-3/4" from the leading edge of the wing (at the centerline) and draw a mark

at this location. Do this on the top of the wing.

❑ Place your aileron servo on top of the wing, aligning the servo output shaft with the mark you drew.

❑ Center the servo over the wing's centerline and trace around the base of the servo using a pencil.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the wing to accommodate your servo. Don't cut the hole too large, though. The servo should fit tightly.

WARNING

For the servo mounting lugs to fit down against the top of the wing, you'll need to remove as much of the foam as possible from the bottom of the servo cutout. Be careful not to cut through the bottom of the wing!

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Page 31

❑ Push the servo into the cutout making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the leading edge of the wing.

You will need to cut a notch in the side of the cutout for

☞

the servo wire to exit the top of the wing.

❑ Install the servo using the mounting screws provided with your servo.

To make it easier to install the screws first punch a small pilot hole through the wing reinforcement board using the tip

☞

of your modeling knife.

Step 5: Installing the Aileron Pushrods

❑ Carefully thread the two nylon adjustable control horns onto the aileron torque rods. The openings in the control horns should face up and toward the leading edge of the wing, and the top of the control horns should be even with the top of the torque rods.

IMPORTANT

So both ailerons have the same amount of control throw, make sure that both control horns are even with each other.

❑ Plug the aileron servo lead into its proper slot in your receiver . Plug the ESC lead into your receiver and plug the flight battery into your ESC . Turn on your radio system and center the servo using the aileron trim lever on your transmitter.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two 1.5mm x 150mm threaded pushrod wires. Thread the clevises on far enough to leave room for adjustments later.

❑ Carefully snap each of the clevises into the adjustable control horns.

❑ Place a "dual arm" servo horn onto the aileron servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered.

Each arm should have at least three holes in it.

☞

❑ With the servo horn and both ailerons centered, use a pencil to draw a mark on each pushrod wire where it crosses the

hole that is 1/4" out from the center of the servo horn.

If you're using a CS-10 servo, this is the first hole out from the center of the servo horn.

☞

❑ Make a Z-Bend in each pushrod wire at the mark you drew. Use wire cutters to remove the excess wire.

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Page 32

❑ Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bends, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure that it's centered.

Y ou will have to enlarge the holes in the servo arms using

☞

a 1/16" drill bit so that you can attach the pushrods.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw , provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

SECTION 12: MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (2) Prebent Main Landing Gear Wires ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheels ❑ (2) Plastic Main Gear Wheel Retainers

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

If you plan on strictly flying your P-51 Reno Racer off of grass we suggest not installing the main gear assembly. The main gear is not necessary for landing on grass and will only cause complication.

❑ (2) Rubber Bands ❑ (2) Nylon Main Landing Gear Mounts

❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

Step 1: Installing the Landing Gear Wires

❑ Carefully push the prebent loop in each landing gear wire through the molded slot in the two nylon landing gear mounts.

If you ever want to remove the landing gear after it has been glued to the wing, you can simply squeeze the prebent

☞

loop together and pull the wire from the nylon mount.

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Make sure the prebent loop is pushed into the slot as far

☞

as possible as shown.

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Step 2: Aligning the Landing Gear Assemblies

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure out 3-1/4" from the centerline of the wing and draw a mark on the bottom of the wing just behind the leading edge.

❑ Measure back 5/8" from the leading edge of the wing, at the first mark you drew, and draw a second, intersecting mark.

❑ Repeat the same procedures on the other half of the wing.

❑ Place one landing gear assembly onto the bottom of

the wing. The inside and front edges of the nylon mount- ing plate should be aligned with the two marks you drew and the inside edge of the mounting plate should be parallel with the centerline of the wing.

IMPORTANT

The landing gear axle should point out toward the tip of the wing and the prebent coil should be toward the trailing edge.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the assembly in place and trace around the mounting plate using a pencil.

Step 3: Installing the Landing Gear Assemblies

❑ Remove the landing gear assembly and use 220 grit sandpaper to roughen the bottom of the nylon mounting plate and the surface of the wing where the plate will be glued into place (inside the outline you drew).

WARNING

Not roughening both the bottom of the mounting plate and the area of the wing where the plate will be glued will result in the landing gear assembly popping off during landing. The gluing surfaces must be roughened for the epoxy to adhere properly.

❑ Glue the landing gear assembly to the bottom of the wing using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy . Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and hold the assembly in place until the epoxy sets up.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, repeat the previous procedures to install the second landing gear assembly on the other half of the wing.

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Step 4: Installing the Wheels

❑ Wrap one rubber band over the center of each plastic wheel.

❑ Center each rubber band, then glue them to the wheels using a couple of drops of thin C/A.

❑ Push one nylon wheel retainer into the molded hole in the center of each nylon main gear wheel. ❑ Push one wheel retainer/wheel assembly firmly onto the end of each landing gear axle.

❑ Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend each landing gear strut forward until the wheels are directly below the leading

edge of the wing.

SECTION 13: CANOPY INSTALLATION

❑ (1) Molded Clear Canopy ❑ (2) 2mm x 5mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 0 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Cutting Out the Canopy

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ (1) Decal Sheet

❑ Scissors ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Using a pair of scissors, cut out the clear canopy along

the molded scribe lines.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the canopy smooth and straight.

❑ Using a pair of scissors, cut out the black cockpit decal along its outer edges.

❑ Apply the decal to the cockpit, making sure to cut the decal out around the two wood screws that hold the radio tray.

If the decal overhangs the cockpit area, trim the edges of the decal flush using a sharp modeling knife.

☞

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Page 35

Step 2: Installing the Canopy

SECTION 14: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:

❑ Set the canopy into place and align it over the molded cockpit area.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, install and tighten two 2mm x 5mm wood screws, threaded through the canopy and into the fuselage, to hold the canopy in place.

Use the tip of your modeling knife to make small pilot

☞

holes in the canopy and fuselage.

❑ (1) 5 x 2.5 Nylon Propeller ❑ (1) Threaded Shaft Adapter Assembly ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly - Front & Back

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker ❑ .050 Hex Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ (1) Double-Sided Foam Tape ❑ (1) Decal Sheet

❑ Scissors ❑ K&S 30 Watt Soldering Iron ❑ Heat-Shrink Tubing ❑ Solder

Step 1: Installing the Propeller & Spinner Assembly

❑ Remove the hex nut and washer from the threaded shaft adapter.

IMPORTANT

When installing the threaded shaft in the next procedure, we strongly suggest applying thread-lock to the set screw. This will prevent the set screw from loosening during flight.

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❑ Slide the threaded shaft adapter onto the motor shaft and tighten the set screw using a .050 hex wrench.

Make sure that the back of the shaft adapter does not

☞

rub against the front of the motor plate.

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❑ Slide the propeller onto the shaft adapter , followed by the rear half of the spinner assembly.

When installing the propeller , make sure it's facing forward.

☞

The front of the propeller has the propeller's size molded into it.

❑ Slide the flat washer up against the spinner and install and tighten the hex nut using an adjustable wrench.

❑ Firmly press the front section of the spinner assembly onto the rear half of the spinner assembly. When positioned correctly, it will "snap" into place.

Step 2: Installing the Receiver

The locations of the radio equipment shown in the next few steps is only approximate. This is how our test airplanes were set up. The locations of your radio equipment could differ and should be dependent on what type of equipment you use and where you balance your airplane. Balancing will be done in the next section.

❑ Plug the elevator and rudder servo leads into their proper slots in the receiver.

❑ Uncoil the receiver antenna and feed it through the inside of the fuselage and out the back. As an alternative, you

could drill a small hole in the side of the fuselage and run the antenna out through that, then secure it to the back of the fuselage using a small piece of clear decal.

IMPORTANT

If you run the antenna through the inside of the fuselage, make sure that the antenna is not wrapped around or otherwise touching any of the pushrod wires or radio interference could result.

❑ Mount the receiver on the radio tray , in front of the servos, using a small piece of double-sided tape.

Step 3: Installing the Electronic Speed Control

❑ Carefully solder the motor wires to your ESC, being careful that the polarity is correct.

Make sure to use heat-shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.

☞

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Page 37

❑ Mount the ESC to the fuselage side, as far away from the receiver as possible. Use a small piece of double-sided tape to hold it in place.

Mounting the ESC as far away from the receiver as

☞

possible will reduce the chance of radio interference.

❑ If your ESC has an on/off switch, mount it to the fuselage side in front of the wing saddle.

We don't suggest mounting the switch in the radio compartment, because it might interfere with the aileron servo when

☞

the wing is mounted.

Step 4: Installing the Flight Battery

❑ Set the flight battery onto the battery tray and slide it through the nylon tie-down strap.

❑ Hold the flight battery in place and pull the tie-down strap to tighten the flight battery down firmly.

T o remove the flight battery, push the tab on the tie-down

☞

strap to loosen it enough to pull the flight battery free.

The location of the flight battery shown above is only approximate. You may need to move it fore or aft to balance the

☞

airplane when that is done in the next section.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a 1/2" diameter air-exit hole in the bottom of the fuselage, about 1" behind the back of the wing saddle. This hole, along with the air-intake hole in the front of the fuselage, will allow hot air to exit the fuselage, keeping the flight battery from overheating.

Step 5: Applying the Decals

❑ Working with one decal at a time, use a pair of scissors to carefully cut out the decal along its outer edges.

Notice that next to each large decal there is printed its location on the airplane.

☞

❑ Remove the protective backing from the decal and apply the decal to the airplane. (Use the box cover photos to

position the decals.) Lightly rub the decal with a soft cloth to remove any trapped air from beneath it.

If any air bubbles form in the decal you can "prick" the bubble with a straight pin to release the air.

☞

❑ Repeat the steps above to apply the remaining decals. Rub each decal down thoroughly to adhere it into place.

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Page 38

SECTION 15: BALANCING THE P-51 RENO RACER EP

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Ruler

IMPORTANT

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control and crash!

Center of Gravity Location:

2-3/8" back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides.

WARNING

This location is recommended for initial test flying. The C.G. can be moved forward or aft up to 1/4", but it is not recommended that the C.G. be located any farther back than 2-5/8".

IMPORTANT

As you move the C.G. further aft, the airplane will become more responsive, especially in pitch. Do not start to move the C.G. back until you are comfortable with the flight characteristics of the airplane.

Balance the P-51 Reno Racer EP with the flight battery installed.

☞

❑ Measure and draw two marks on the top of the wing, 2-3/8" back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down, place your fingers on the marks, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the

airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the flight battery forward enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C.G. location.

❑ Pencil

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C.G . can be moved forward

☞

or aft up to 1/4" in each direction to change the flight performance. Moving the C.G . back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C.G. forward will cause the airplane to be less responsive, but more stable.

Do not fly the airplane beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

SECTION 16: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the P-51 Reno Racer EP using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 3/16" Up 3/16" Down Elevator: 1/4" Up 1/4" Down Rudder: 1/2" Right 1/2" Left

When measuring the control throws, measure from the widest point of the control surfaces.

☞

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Page 39

Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the sportflying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do basic aerobatics with ease.

SPORT-FLYING

Ailerons: 5/16" Up 5/16" Down Elevator: 5/16" Up 5/16" Down Rudder: 3/4" Right 3/4" Left

We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended Sport-Flying settings. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.

SECTION 17: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

●

Check the operation of the throttle. To do this, do the following:

A) Plug the flight battery into the ESC and turn on the radio system.

WARNING

Do not turn the receiver on unless the transmitter is turned on first. Always turn the transmitter on first. Never allow hands or clothing to get in the way of the propeller when the radio is turned on. Sudden unwanted radio signals, or turning the radio on with the throttle stick set at full throttle, can turn the motor on unintentionally. Always make sure that the throttle control stick is set to idle before turning on the transmitter.

B) When the throttle control stick is at the idle position, the motor should be off. Moving the stick forward should

turn on the motor. Gradually moving the stick to the full forward position should result in the motor running at full power.

Some ESCs will give you more proportional control than others. Y our ESC may also have a manual control adjustment

☞

screw that must be adjusted prior to using the ESC. (Refer to your ESC's operating guide for further information.)

●

Cycle the flight battery three times. When NiMH batteries are new they need to be used 2-3 times before they will produce their top voltage and duration. To cycle them, simply charge the battery and then run the motor (at low speed to prevent damaging it) until the motor stops. Allow the battery and motor to cool, then repeat this procedure two more times.

●

Check the condition of the transmitter batteries. They should be fully charged.

●

Check every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the flight battery installed.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Check to ensure that the control surfaces are moving the proper amount.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

●

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Page 40

The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.

●

Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

●

Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.

●

When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

●

While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately.

●

You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model.

●

You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

●

Y ou should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

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Page 41

SECTION 18: FLYING THE P-51 RENO RACER EP

The P-51 Reno Racer EP can take off from the ground or be hand-launched. We recommend ground take-offs only from hard smooth surfaces.

Taking Off from the Ground

With the airplane pointing into the wind, apply full power and feed in right rudder to keep the airplane tracking straight as it rolls down the runway. Once sufficient airspeed has been reached, gently apply up elevator to lift the airplane off the ground. Climb out straight ahead in a shallow climb to build up speed. Do not make any steep turns right after take-off or you may stall the airplane.

Hand Launching

Hand Launching should always be done into the wind. T o hand-launch the airplane, gently grasp the fuselage directly behind the wing using your thumb and forefingers. Hold the

airplane above shoulder level and turn on the motor to full power. With the motor running at full power, firmly throw the airplane straight ahead and level. Do not throw it up at an angle or throw it too hard or out of control. Let the airplane fly straight and level to pick up airspeed, then climb to your desired altitude. Be careful not to climb too steeply after handlaunching or you could stall the airplane.

In the Air

In the air the P-51 Reno Racer EP is smooth and predictable. At full power, the airplane is fast and responsive to control inputs, and handles light winds with ease. It "grooves" around corners and is rock-steady while "up on the wing." Loops, rolls, Immelmann turns, cuban eights, spins and other aerobatics are completed without much effort. You will find the airplane tracks very true and stays where you put it.

Landing

Landings should always be done into the wind. Prepare for landing by reducing power and making a shallow turn into the wind. (With power off we strongly suggest

avoiding high-banked turns.) With the airplane on final approach it will begin to slow down and descend. With the airplane descending, apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the airplane's speed. Just before touch-down, turn the motor off and let the airplane settle near the ground. Flair just before touch-down and you will be rewarded with a soft landing. As always, when landing, be careful not to over-control. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which don't make for good landings.

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Page 42

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Page 43

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

T elling us what you like and don't like determines what model kit s we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP # 128419

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

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6) Were any of the kit parts:

❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem? ❑ Yes ❑ No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers? ❑ Better ❑ As Good

What is Your Age Group: ❑ 10 & Under ❑ 11 - 20 ❑ 21 - 30 ❑ 31 - 40 ❑ 41 - 50 ❑ 51 - 60 ❑ 61 - 70 ❑ 71 +

How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby? ❑ Less than 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 11 - 15 ❑ 16 - 20 ❑ 20 or More

How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year? ❑ 0 - 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 10 or More

Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ______________________

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(Return Address Here)

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Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Customer Service

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610

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Global Hobby Wattage P-51 Reno Racer EP Instructions For Final Assembly

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual