Global Hobby Skyraider Instructions For Final Assembly

SKYRAIDER

40 - 46 Size Stand-off Scale A.R.F.

Instructions for Final Assembly

The Skyraider was designed to be a replacement for the naval dive bombers that were in use in the
1940's. It was felt that one aircraft could be designed that would be able to fill that role and much more,
and that reducing the crew to a single pilot would result in weight savings and speed increases, both
factors that would enable the aircraft to carry more ordinance more effectively.

This was exactly what happened when the prototype was first flown on March 18, 1945. The
Skyraider was a single seat ground attack aircraft. It carried two 20mm cannons and up to 6000lbs. of
externally stored weapons. The Skyraider was powered by one Wright Cyclone radial engine producing
2400 horsepower . Because of it's successes in the later parts of the V ietnam war and throughout the
Korean war, the U.S. Navy called the Skyraider "the best and most ef fective close support airplane in
the world."

Now you too can experience the same feeling with your new Global Skyraider ARF. The Global
Skyraider is built by master craftsmen, utilizing the finest grades of balsa, light ply , foam and fiberglass.
It's covered using heat shrink polyester material, just like you would buy at your local hobby shop.
Want to install retracts into your new Skyraider? We've already installed the hardwood rails, cut out
the wheel wells and strut channels to make it as easy as possible. Don't want to install retracts?
We've provided all the necessary hardware to install fixed main gear . In fact, we've provided all of the
hardware to finish the Skyraider. Fuel tank, wheels, pushrods, pull-pull cables, clevises and much
more. It's all in the kit. Don't worry about trying to find an aftermarket fiberglass cowl either. We've
provided a one piece fiberglass cowl that's even prepainted to match the covering! With this kind of
quality prefabrication, you'll be in the air and strafing ground targets in no time!

Version V1.0 9-99 MTN All Contents © Copyright 1999

1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Kit Contents.....................................................................2

Additional Items Required..............................................3

Tools and Supplies Needed..............................................3

Field Support Equipment Needed....................................3

Metric Conversion Chart.................................................3

Wing Assembly................................................................4

Hinging the Ailerons................................................4

Installing the Aileron Servos....................................4

Installing the Servo Hatches.....................................5

Installing the Dihedral Brace....................................6

Joining the Wing Halves...........................................6

Optional Fixed Main Gear...............................................7

Installing the Main Gear Struts.................................7

Installing the Main Gear Wheels..............................7

Optional Retract Main Gear.............................................8

Installing the Retract Mechanisms...........................8

Installing the Retract Servo......................................8

Installing the Retract Linkage..................................8

Installing the Retract Gear Covers...........................9

Installing the Wheels..............................................10

Wing Mounting..............................................................10

Installing the Wing.................................................10

Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler............................10

Installing the Wing Fairing.....................................11

Horizontal Stabilizer Installation...................................11

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer..........................11

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer........................12

Hinging the Elevator Halves..................................12

Vertical Stabilizer Installation.......................................12

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer..............................12

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer.............................13

Hinging the Rudder.................................................13

Tail Wheel Installation...................................................13

T ail Wheel Bracket Assembly..................................13

Mounting the Tail Wheel Assembly.......................13

Installing the Tail Wheel.........................................14

Engine Installation.........................................................14

Engine Installation Options....................................14

Installing the Engine to the Motor Mount..............14

Mounting the Engine to the Firewall

For 2 Cycle Engines Only....................................15

Mounting the Engine to the Firewall

For 4 Cycle Engines Only................................15

Fuel Tank.......................................................................16

Stopper Assembly...................................................16

Stopper Installation................................................17

Fuel Tank Installation.............................................17

Throttle Linkage............................................................18

Installing the Pushrod Housing..............................18

Installing the Pushrod Wire....................................18

Servo Installation...........................................................18

Installing the Fuselage Servos...............................18

Throttle Connection.......................................................19

Installing the Servo Connector...............................19

Rudder Pull-Pull Cables................................................19

Installing the Control Rod......................................19

Installing the Pull-Pull Cable.................................19

Elevator Pushrod...........................................................21

Installing the Control Horns..................................21

Installing the Elevator Pushrod..............................21

Aileron Linkages...........................................................22

Installing the Control Horns..................................22

Installing the Aileron Linkages..............................22

Canopy...........................................................................23

Canopy Preparation...............................................23

Mounting the Canopy............................................23

Cowl...............................................................................23

Installing the Cowl Blocks.....................................23

Mounting the Cowl................................................23

Installing the Fuel Filler........................................24

Installing the Fuel Lines.......................................24

Installing the Cowl Fairings..................................24

Final Assembly............................................................25

Installing the Receiver and Battery.......................25

Installing the Switch.............................................25

Applying the Decals...............................................25

Balancing......................................................................26

Lateral Balance......................................................26

Control Throws.............................................................26

Flight Preparation..........................................................26

Preflight Check.......................................................27

Flying.............................................................................27

Notes...............................................................................28

Trim Chart.....................................................................29

Product Evaluation........................................................30

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help
with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

[phone]

www.modelaircraft.org

2

This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual
thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Skyraider ARF . Use the parts listing below to identify and
separate all of the parts before beginning assembly.

ÄKIT CONTENTSÃ We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification
during assembly . W e recommend that you regroup the parts in the same manner . This will ensure you have all
of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons
q {1} Fuselage
q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
q {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
q {1} Molded Plastic Wing Fairing
q {1} Molded Plastic Retract Gear Covers
q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling
q {2} Molded Plastic Cowl Fairings
q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

MAIN GEAR ASSEMBL Y

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires
q {2} 50mm Diameter Wheels
q {4} Landing Gear Straps
q {8} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws
q {2} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws
q {2} Nylon Spacers

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBL Y

q {1} Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket
q {1} Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm
q {1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
q {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
q {1} 2mm x 40mm Wire Pin
q {2} 2mm Wheel Collars
q {2} Brass Bearing Inserts
q {2} 2mm x 5mm Machine Screws
q {3} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

ELEVA TOR CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 740mm Split Elevator Pushrod Assembly
q {2} Nylon Clevises
q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
q {2} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplates
q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws
q {6} C/A Hinges

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

q {2} 2mm x 250mm Threaded Wires
q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates
q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws
q {2} Nylon Clevises
q {2} Adjustable Servo Connectors
q {6} C/A Hinges
q {4} 8mm x 15mm x 20mm Wood Blocks
q {8} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} Stranded Wire Cable
q {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
q {4} Nylon Clevises
q {1} 3mm x 50mm Threaded Rod
q {2} 3mm Flat Washers
q {2} 3mm Nuts
q {4} Brass threaded Couplers
q {4} Brass Crimp Collets
q {3} C/A Hinges

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 1.5mm x 380mm Pushrod Wire
q {1} 3mm x 270mm Nylon Pushrod Housing
q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams
q {4} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws
q {4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws
q {8} 4mm Flat Washers
q {4} 4mm Split Washers
q {4} 4mm Hex Nuts
q {4} 4mm Blind Nuts

FUEL T ANK

q {1} 280cc Molded Fuel Tank
q {1} 4mm x 28mm Nylon Pick-Up Tube
q {2} 4mm x 28mm Prebent Nylon Vent Tube
q {1} 3mm x 18mm Self Tapping Screw
q {1} Length of Fuel Tubing
q {1} Metal Weighted Pick-Up
q {1) Nylon Fuel Cap
q {1} Rubber Stopper
q {1} Nylon Backplate
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Housing
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Snap Ring
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Plug

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
q {1} Precovered Wing Bolt Doubler
q {2} Precovered Aileron Servo Hatches
q {5} 10mm x 10mm x 20mm Hardwood Blocks
q {3} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws
q {2} 4mm x 40mm Socket Cap Screws
q {2} 4mm Plastic Flat Washers
q {2} Decal Sheet

3

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

q {1}Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/5 Servos
q {2}Cirrus 12” Servo Extensions # 444713
q {1}Cirrus Y-Harness # 444728
q {1}Dubro Heat Shrink Tubing # 440
q {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513
q {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923
q {1}Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter # 340
q {1}Topflight Black Paint # TOPR7208

FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINE

q {1}Magnum XL .40 - .46 Two Cycle Engine
q {1}Propeller To Suit Engine
q {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493
q {1}Magnum Chrome Spinner Nut # 237210

OPTIONAL RETRACTS

q {1}Mechanical Retracts (Robart or Hobbico)
q {1} Cirrus CS-100 Retract Servo # 444222
q {2}Dubro 12” Threaded Rod # 172
q {2}Dubro Adjustable Axles # 248
q {1}Package Dubro Nylon Clevises # 228
q {1}Package Dubro EZ Connectors # 121

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

FOR 4 CYCLE ENGINE

q {1}Magnum XL .52 - .80 Four Cycle Engine
q {1}Propeller To Suit Engine
q {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115490
q {1}Magnum Chrome Spinner Nut

For XL .52RFS # 237210
For XL .80RFS # 237212

OPTIONAL ITEMS

q {1}Ernst Charge Jack # 124
q {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762

Note - Part numbers for servo extensions, Y-harness,
retract servo and On-Board Battery Indicator are for
Hitec and JR radio systems. These items are also
available with different connectors for use with Futaba
and Airtronics radio systems.

q Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
q Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
q Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
q Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
q Wilhold Silicon Sealer # 00684
q Pacer RC256 Canopy Glue # PT-56
q 3M Fineline Masking Tape 1/8” # 218-06300
q Electric Drill
q Assorted Drill Bits
q Modeling Knife
q Machine Oil or Vaseline

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

q Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006)
q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377)
q Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440)
q Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm
1/32” = .8mm
1/16” = 1.6mm
3/32” = 2.4mm
1/8” = 3.2mm
5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm
1/4” = 6.4mm
3/8” = 9.5mm
1/2” = 12.7mm
5/8” = 15.9mm
3/4” = 19.0mm

q Straight Edge Ruler
q Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits
q Phillips Screwdriver
q Builders Triangle
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Standard Masking T ape
q Paper T owels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Wire Cutters
q 4mm Hex Wrench

q Global 12V Charger (# 110270 )
q Magnum Power Panel (# 237390)
q Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072)
q Magnum 4-W ay W rench (# 237420)

1” = 25.4mm
2” = 50.8mm
3” = 76.2mm
6” = 152.4mm

21” = 533.4mm
24” = 609.6mm
30” = 762.0mm

36” = 914.4mm
12” = 304.8mm
18” = 457.2mm

4

If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address below:

Customer Service Center

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA. 92728

Phone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-Mail: [e-mail]

ÄSUGGESTIONÃ To avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are
needed for assembly . Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper , both to protect the aircraft
and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the
bags.

ÄNOTEÃ Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are
aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the Skyraider is hand made from
natural materials, every airplane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you
should find the fit superior and assembly simple.

WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons
q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
q {6} C/A Hinges
q {4} 8mm x 15mm x 20mm Wood Blocks
q {8} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws
q {2} Precovered Servo Hatches

HINGING THE AILERONS

q 1) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trail­ing edge of each wing half and the leading edge of
each of the two ailerons.

q 2) T est fit the six C/A hinges into the hinge slots
in each aileron. Each hinge should be able to be in­serted far enough into the aileron so the centerline of
the hinge is flush with the leading edge of the aileron.
If the hinges cannot be inserted deep enough, use a
modeling knife and cut the hinge slots deeper. See

figure # 1 below.

Figure # 1

Modeling Knife

Hinge Slot

q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the hinges in
the ailerons, remove them and test fit the hinges into
the trailing edge of the wing halves. The centerline
of each hinge should be flush with the trailing edge
of the wing halves. If they are not, perform the same
technique as done in step # 2 above.

q 4) T est fit the ailerons to the wing halves, mak­ing sure the ailerons engage each hinge completely.
Push the ailerons tight up against the trailing edge of
the wing halves. Move the ailerons up and down to
ensure they move smoothly. The gap between the
leading edge of the ailerons and the trailing edge of
the wing halves should be no more that 1/32”.

q 5) Apply 6-8 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of both sides of each hinge. Allow a
few seconds between drops for the C/A to wick into
the hinge. See figure # 2 below.

Figure # 2

Apply C/A

Here

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of
the hinge line. Once cured, the ailerons may be stiff
and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move
the ailerons up and down about five to ten times to
free them up.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

q 6) Locate the two aileron servos, two 12” aile­ron extensions, one Y-Harness and Dubro heat shrink
tubing that you purchased separately.

5

q 7) Plug the two servos into your radio receiver
and center them both. Make sure the aileron trim tab
on your transmitter is centered as well. Install the
rubber isolation grommets and brass collets onto both
servos. The collets should be installed with the flanges
towards the bottom of the servo.

blocks into place on the servo tray . Allow the epoxy
to fully cure before proceeding.

It is important that you use epoxy in this situa-

tion. C/A glues will not adhere as well to the
hardwoods, and if used, the blocks could break loose
when installing the servo, or worse, during flight.

q 8) Install a single long servo arm onto each of
the servos. The arms should be mounted 90º to the
centerline of the servos. See figure # 3 below .

Figure # 3

Servo Arm

90º

q 9) Locate the two precovered aileron servo
hatches. Turn each of the two hatches upside down
(non-covered side) and you will notice precut oval
holes. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering
from over the two holes. These holes are where the
servo arms will exit and actuate the ailerons.

q 10) Working on the bottom of one servo hatch
for now, place one servo onto the hatch. The servo
arm should be inserted through, and centered in, the
precut hole. Notice the hole is angled. Make sure the
servo is parallel to the hole.

q 11) Holding the servo in proper alignment on
the hatch, temporarily place two of the 8mm x 15mm
x 20mm wood blocks in place behind the servo
mounting tabs. The blocks are positioned vertically
with the taller side up. See photo # 1 below.

Photo # 1

q 14) After the epoxy has cured, place the servo
back onto the hatch. Mark the locations of the four
mounting screws onto the two blocks using a pencil.

q 15) Remove the servo and drill 1/16” pilot holes
through the blocks for the servo mounting screws.

Drilling pilot holes into the wood before install-

ing the screws is important. It will keep the
wood from splitting when the screws are installed.

q 16) Place the servo back onto the servo hatch
and secure it in place with the mounting screws. Re­peat steps # 10 - # 15 for the second aileron servo.
On the bottom of each hatch place a mark so you know
which one is for the right and which one is for the
left. This will help keep you from mixing them up.

INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCHES

q 17) Turn one wing panel right side up. Using a
modeling knife and a razor saw, remove the portion
of the root rib above the precut servo exit hole and
cut a half circle in the top of the wing to allow the
servo wire to pass through. See photo # 2 below .

Photo # 2

Remove from
Top Sheeting

Remove from

Root Rib

Hardwood

Block

Servo
Hatch

q 12) Using a pencil, outline the locations of the
two hardwood blocks and the servo onto the bottom
of the servo hatch.

q 13) Remove the parts from the hatch. Using
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy, glue the two wood

Hardwood

Block

Precut

Hole

Servo

Arm

q 18) Attach one 12” aileron extension to one
servo lead. Cut one 1-1/2” length of heat shrink tub­ing and slide it over the servo lead. Place the tubing
over the servo plugs where the lead and the extension
are connected. Shrink the tubing using a heat gun to
secure the plugs securely . See figur e # 4 below.

Figure # 4

Install Heat Shrink

Tubing Around Plugs

Servo

Lead

Servo

6

Lead

The heat shrink tubing will prevent the plugs

from coming apart during assembly and more
importantly during flight. If you don't use heat shrink
tubing, electrical tape works well also.

q 25) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark
the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw
one vertical line at this location on each side. See

photo # 4 below.

q 19) Using the throttle pushrod wire as a guide,
insert one end through the precut servo lead hole in
the root rib, through the center ribs and into the servo
bay in the middle of the wing. Using masking tape,
tape the servo lead to the end of the wire. Carefully
pull the wire out of the wing while guiding the servo
lead out. When you have pulled the servo lead out,
remove it and the masking tape from the wire.

q 20) Set the servo hatch in place on the bottom
of the wing. The hatch should be orientated with the
servo arm toward the wing tip and up towards the
leading edge.

q 21) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and mark
the four mounting hole locations onto the hatch. The
holes should be located 1/8” in from each edge.

q 22) Drill 5/64” pilot holes through the hatch and
into the hardwood blocks beneath it at the locations
marked. Be careful not to drill through the top of the
wing! Remove the hatch and enlarge the holes in
only the hatch using a 7/64” drill bit. Reinstall the
hatch using the four 2.5mm x 12mm wood screws.

See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

Leading

Servo

Arm

Wood

Screw

Edge

Servo
Hatch

q 23) Repeat steps # 17 - # 22 for the second servo
hatch assembly .

INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

q 24) Look at the surface of each root rib on both
wing halves. Notice how the excess covering mate­rial overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, care­fully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs.
Leave about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does
not pull away.

It is important that the covering be removed

from the root ribs. This will ensure an adequate
wood-to-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure
during flight.

Photo # 4

Draw

Centerline

Dihedral

Brace

q 26) Test fit the dihedral brace into the plywood
box in each wing half. The brace should slide into
each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not,
remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips
until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

Root

Rib

Dihedral

Brace

The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V".
The "V" shape should face the top surface of

the wing when the brace is installed.

q 27) T est fit both of the wing halves together with
the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not use
glue at this time! The wing halves should fit to­gether tight with little or no gaps in the center section
joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove
the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of
the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together
with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat until
you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves.

q 28) When satisfied with the fit of the wing
halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

JOINING THE WING HALVES

q 29) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy . Working with only one wing half for
now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood
dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral
brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well
as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

7

q 30) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood
box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy
before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alco­hol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

q 31) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing
halves together to double check that the wing halves
still fit correctly.

Do not remove the covering from over the pre­cut optional retract mounting holes, strut chan-

nels or wheel wells.

q 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into
the rear hole in one mounting slot. The coiled spring
in the gear wire should be facing the trailing edge of
the wing.

q 32) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the
exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the
plywood box in the second wing half and the entire
surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough
epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 33) Slide the two wing halves together and care­fully align them at the leading and trailing edges.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the
two wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See

photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

Wing

Servo

Lead

Exit

Joint

q 3) The gear wire is held in place using two land­ing gear straps and four 2.5mm x12mm wood screws.
The straps should be located equal distance from the
front of the gear wire and the back of it.

q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark
the locations of the four 2.5mm x 12mm mounting
screws onto the wing.

q 5) Remove the straps and the gear wire. Drill
four 5/64” holes into the wing for the wood screws.
Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing!

q 6) Reinstall the gear wire and install the straps
using the four 2.5mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten
them completely to secure the gear wire in place. See

photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

Axle

Landing Gear

Wire

q 34) When the epoxy has fully cured, double
check the center section joint. If any gaps are present,
mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Allow the ep­oxy to fully cure before proceeding.

OPTIONAL FIXED MAIN GEAR

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires
q {2} 50mm Diameter Wheels
q {4} Landing Gear Straps
q {8} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws
q {2} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws
q {2} Nylon Spacers

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR STRUTS

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover­ing from over the two main gear mounting slots lo­cated in the bottom of the wing. One slot is located
in each wing half, 8-3/4” out from the centerline of
the wing and 1-1/4” back from the leading edge. The
slot is 2-1/4” long.

Mounting

Strap

Trailing

Edge

Wood
Screw

q 7) Repeat steps # 2 - # 6 for the second landing
gear wire.

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

q 8) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and
one wheel collar with set screw onto each axle. Make
sure the wheels spin free and tighten the set screws in
the wheel collars. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

Set

Nylon

Spacer

Wheel

Screw

Wheel
Collar

8

OPTIONAL RETRACT MAIN GEAR

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 50mm Diameter Wheels
q {2} Molded Plastic Retract Gear Covers

INSTALLING THE RETRACT MECHANISMS

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover­ing from over the two sets of precut wheel wells, gear
strut channels and retract mounting blocks in the bot­tom of the wing. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

Wheel

Well

q 2) Working with one wing half at a time, trial
fit the retract mechanism onto the hardwood mount­ing rails.

Strut

Channel

Mounting

Blocks

q 5) Repeat steps # 2 - # 4 for installing the sec­ond retract mechanism.

INSTALLING THE RETRACT SERVO

q 6) Install the rubber isolation grommets and
brass collets onto your retract servo. Place the servo
onto the preinstalled rails in the servo compartment
in the top of the wing. The servo output shaft should
face the leading edge of the wing.

q 7) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through
the rails for the mounting screws. Be careful not to
drill through the bottom of the wing!

q 8) Secure the servo in place on the rails using
the mounting screws provided with the servo. See

photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

Retract

Servo

Output

Shaft

The spacing between the two hardwood rails

should be sufficient for most popular brands of
retracts. If your retract mechanism is wider, you will
need to trim equal amounts of material off of the in­side edge of each hardwood rail. If this is necessary ,
we recommend using a Dremel Tool with a sanding
drum attachment.

q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the mechanism,
install the retract onto the rails. Drill 5/64” pilot holes
through the rails to prevent the wood from splitting
when you install the mounting screws. Be careful
not to drill through the top of the wing!

q 4) Install the retract using the mounting screws
provided with the retract. Tighten the screws com­pletely. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

Retract

Mechanism

(not included)

Mounting

Screw

Leading

Edgle

INSTALLING THE RETRACT LINKAGE

q 9) Using wire cutters, cut both 12” 2-56 threaded
rods (not included) to 5” long. Thread one nylon cle­vis (not included) onto each of the two rods.

q 10) Slide the two threaded rods, with the clev­ises attached, through the precut slots in the ribs, up
to the retract mechanism. Snap the clevises onto the
adjustable control horns. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

Nylon

Clevis

Pushrod

Wire

Adjustable

Control

Horn

Retract

Arm

The easiest way to get the threaded rods through

the slots is to insert the clevis end first through
the retract servo opening. They will slide through the
slots, up to the retract mechanism without any bend­ing necessary.

9

q 11) Using a ruler, measure the distance your re­tract mechanism moves from the full up and locked
position to the full down and locked position. For
most retracts this measurement should be about 1”.

See figure # 5 below.

Figure # 5

X

X = Distance of

Actuator Arm

Travel

q 12) To secure the two pushrod wires to the servo
wheel, we suggest using EZ Connectors. For the
mechanism to work properly the EZ Connectors need
to be installed on the servo wheel the exact distance
apart as the distance your retract mechanism travels.
You may need to drill your own holes through the
servo wheel if there are no predrilled holes that fit the
proper measurement. See figure # 6 below .

Figure # 6

X = Measurement From Step # 11

q 15) Rotate the servo wheel 180º so the retracts
are in the full down and locked position. Use pliers
and carefully bend each of the wires to prevent them
from hitting the EZ Connectors. See figure # 7 below .

Figure # 7

EZ

Connector

Make

Bend

Make
Bend

EZ

Connector

When you make the bend in the two wires, this
will shorten the wires slightly. You may need to

readjust the length of the wires using the EZ Connector.

q 16) Rotate the servo wheel back and forth to test
the operation of the retracts. If any binding is present
make small bends or adjustments in the linkage.

It is important that the retract linkage operates
smoothly. Any binding can cause the retract

servo to stall and result in excessive battery drain.

INSTALLING THE RETRACT GEAR COVERS

X

q 13) With the EZ Connectors installed on the
servo wheel slide the threaded wires through the con­nectors. With the gear in the full UP and locked posi­tion, attach the servo wheel to the servo so that the
EZ Connectors and wires are opposite each other . If
necessary, use a modeling knife and remove a por­tion of the top sheeting to allow clearance for the servo
wheel and connector. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

EZ

Connector

Remove

Sheeting

Pushrod

Wire

q 17) Using Lexan Canopy Scissors or a model­ing knife, cut out both plastic retract gear covers, leav­ing about a 1/8” lip around the entire perimeter to use
as a gluing surface. Cut the two gear covers apart in
the center. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

1/8” Lip for

Gluing Surface

q 18) Test fit the two gear covers in place on the
wing. They should fit inside the gear cutout and the
lip should rest flush on the wing surface. You may
have to make minor adjustments to fit your particular
retract installation. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

q 14) Double check that the retracts are in the full
up and locked position. Tighten the set screws in the
EZ Connectors and cut off the excess wires, leaving
5/16” beyond each EZ Connector as shown above.

10

q 19) When satisfied with the fit, glue the plastic
gear covers into place using RC256 Canopy Glue.
Hold the covers in place using masking tape until the
glue fully cures.

INSTALLING THE WHEELS

q 20) If you haven't already done so, install the
strut wires into the retract mechanisms. The coil in
the wires should face the trailing edge of the wing.

q 21) Mount the wheels to the adjustable axle
assemblies.

If your brand of retracts did not include adjust­able axle assemblies, Dubro Adjustable Axles

# 248 are recommended.
q 22) Slide the axle assemblies over the strut

wires and center the wheels in the wheel cover.
Tighten the set screws in the adjustable axles. Cut
off any excess wire using a Dremel Tool with a cut­ting disc attachment. See photo # 16 below.

Photo # 16

Strut

Wheel

Wire

q 2) Place the wing into the wing saddle and tem­porarily secure it in place using the two 4mm x 40mm
machine screws and 4mm plastic flat washers.

T wo 4mm blind nuts have been preinstalled into

the bottom of the wing mounting block.

INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER

q 3) Remove the wing bolts and washers, but leave
the wing in place and aligned in the wing saddle. Hold
it in place with a couple of pieces of masking tape to
help keep it from moving.

q 4) With the wing held firmly in position, set
the wing bolt doubler in place. The rear edge of
the doubler should be flush with the trailing edge
of the wing and the sides of the doubler should be
centered over the centerline of the wing. See photo

# 17 below.

Photo # 17

Centerline

Wing Bolt

Doubler

Wheel
Cover

Adjustable

Axle

q 23) Rotate the servo wheel until the retracts are
in the full down position. Both wheels should point
straight ahead and be parallel with each other.

q 24) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut a hole
in the bottom of each plastic gear cover to allow the
wheel collar to pass through when the landing gear
are fully retracted. Be careful not to cut through the
top of the wing.

WING MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 4mm x 40mm Socket Cap Screws
q {2} 4mm Plastic Flat Washers
q {1} Precovered Wing Bolt Doubler
q {1} Molded Plastic Wing Fairing

INSTALLING THE WING

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover­ing from over the two predrilled wing mounting holes
in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located
5/8” forward of the trailing edge and 1-5/8” out from
the centerline. Remove the covering from over the
holes on both the top and bottom of the wing.

q 5) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen
and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the
wing surface.

q 6) Remove the doubler. Using a modeling knife,
carefully remove the covering from just inside the
outline.

q 7) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing doubler to
the wing. Any excess epoxy can be removed using a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol before the epoxy
cures.

q 8) After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the
wing and drill out the wing mounting holes through
the doubler using an 11/64” drill bit. Use the holes
already drilled through the wing as a guide.

q 9) Place the wing back into the wing saddle. Se­cure the wing in place using the two 4mm x 40mm
machine screws and two 4mm plastic flat washers.

11

INSTALLING THE WING FAIRING

q 10) Using a modeling knife, or Lexan Canopy
Scissors, cut out the plastic wing fairing along the
molded scribe line. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

the fuselage sides out to the stabilizer's tips. Both
measurements should be equal when the stabilizer is
centered. See figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

A = A-1

Leave 1/8”

Wing

Fairing

Material

q 11) Test fit the fairing to the bottom of the wing.
There should be about 1/16” gap between the front
edge of the fairing and the back edge of the fuselage.

q 12) Using a modeling knife, carefully trim the
forward edges of the fairing to match the contour of
the wing's leading edge.

q 13) When satisfied with the fit, glue the fairing
to the wing using RC256 Canopy Glue. Use pieces
of masking tape to hold the fairing in place until the
glue completely cures. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

Wing

Fairing

A

A-1

q 3) When satisfied that the stabilizer is centered,
place a mark on each side of the top and bottom of
the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet.
Doing this will help you realign the stabilizer later.

q 4) With the stabilizer centered in the fuselage,
use a couple of pieces of masking tape or a T-pin to
secure the stabilizer in place at the trailing edge only .

q 5) Align the stabilizer to the wing. When viewed
from the rear, the stabilizer should be level with the
wing. If it is not, remove the stabilizer and use 220 grit
sandpaper to sand down the high side of the stabilizer
mounting platform in the fuselage until the stabilizer is
level with the wing. Measure the distance from each
wing tip to each stabilizer tip. These distances should
be equal. See figures # 9 and # 10 below.

Bottom

Surfaces

Flush

1/16” Gap

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
q {6} C/A Hinges

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and
place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark,
from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer.

q 2) Slide the stabilizer into place in the precut
slot in the rear of the fuselage. To center the stabi­lizer from side to side, measure the stabilizer from

Figure # 9

B

Figure # 10

C C-1

B-1

B = B-1

C = C-1

q 6) When you are satisfied with the alignment,
hold the stabilizer in place using a couple of pieces of
masking tape or a couple of T-pins.

12

q 7) On the top and bottom of the stabilizer, draw
a line where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this
on both the right and left sides.

q 8) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you
drew as a guide, remove the covering from between
them using a modeling knife. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

Draw

Line

Remove

Covering

Draw

Line

When using the modeling knife, be careful not to

cut too deep. Only use enough pressure to cut
the covering. Cutting deeper into the wood can weaken
the structure and cause the stabilizer to fail in flight.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 9) When you are sure that everything is aligned
correctly , glue the horizontal stabilizer in place using
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Double check all of
your measurements once more before the epoxy cures.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using paper towels and
rubbing alcohol and hold the stabilizer in place using
masking tape or T-pins.

VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
q {3} C/A Hinges

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 1) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the
top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer
should be even with the rear edge of the fuselage and
the bottom of the stabilizer should be firmly pressed
against the top of the horizontal stabilizer. The dor­sal fin should be centered with, and pressed firmly
against, the top of the fuselage.

q 2) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly
in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the
vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuse­lage. Also draw a line on the top of the fuselage where
it and the dorsal fin meet.

q 3) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling
knife, remove the covering from below the lines you
drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge
of the stabilizer, the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and
between the lines you drew on top of the fuselage.

See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

Remove

Covering

Draw

Line

Because the stabilizer has to slide in place

through the fuselage, we suggest you apply a
liberal amount of epoxy to only the gluing surface of
the stabilizer . This will prevent spreading epoxy over
the entire length of one half of the stabilizer when
you slide it in place. After the epoxy has cured, use
more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were
not filled previously.

HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES

q 10) Hinge the two elevator halves using the same
technique as with the ailerons.

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of
the hinge lines. Once cured, the elevator halves may
be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently
move them up and down about five to ten times to
free them up.

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut
through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa
structure may weaken it.

q 4) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place.
Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical sta­bilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. See

figure # 1 1 below.

Figure # 11

Horizontal

Stabilizer

90º

Vertical

Stabilizer

13

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 5) When you are sure that everything is aligned
correctly , mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond
30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the mount­ing slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides
and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area.
Apply epoxy to the bottom edge of the dorsal fin
and to the top of the fuselage also. Set the stabilizer
in place and realign. Double check all of your mea­surements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold
the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape
and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure
before proceeding.

HINGING THE RUDDER

q 2) Insert one 2mm wheel collar into the molded
recess in the tail wheel tiller arm. Align the hole in
the wheel collar with the hole in the side of the tiller
arm. Install the 2mm x 5mm machine screw .

q 3) Slide the tail wheel tiller arm onto the tail
wheel wire. The arm should be positioned straight
back from the bracket and 90º to the axle The coil in
the wire should face forward. Tighten the machine
screw to secure the assembly in place. See photo #

22 below .

Photo # 22

Tail Wheel

Bracket

Set

Screw

Tiller

Arm

q 6) Hinge the rudder using the same technique
as with the ailerons and elevator halves.

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of
the hinge line. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff
and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move
it back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket
q {1} Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm
q {1} Prebent Tail Wheel Wire
q {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
q {1} 2mm x 40mm Wire Pin
q {2} 2mm Wheel Collars
q {2} Brass Bearing Inserts
q {2} 2mm x 5mm Machine Screws
q {3} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

TAIL WHEEL BRACKET ASSEMBLY

q 1) Slide one brass bearing, flange side down,
onto the tail wheel wire. Insert the wire up through
the bottom of the tail wheel bracket. Slide the second
brass bearing, flange side up, onto the wire. Push
firmly on each bearing to seat them into the top and
bottom of the bracket. See figure # 12 below.

Tail Wheel

Wire

MOUNTING THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

q 4) Set the tail wheel assembly in place. The
pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the
rudder hinge line and the tail wheel bracket should be
centered on the bottom of the fuselage.

q 5) Using a pen, mark the locations of the three
mounting screws. Remove the tail wheel bracket and
drill 5/64” pilot holes at the locations marked.

q 6) Secure the tail wheel bracket in place using
three 3mm x 10mm wood screws. Be careful not to
overtighten the screws. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

Tiller

Arm

Tail Wheel

Bracket

Figure # 12

Brass

Bearing

Brass

Bearing

Tail Wheel

Bracket

q 7) Using a ruler and a pen, measure back and
place a mark on the bottom edge of the rudder 1-1/4”
back from the rudder's leading edge.

q 8) Rotate the tiller arm to the side. Using a 5/64”
drill bit, drill a hole into the bottom of the rudder at
the mark made. Drill the hole at least 3/4” deep and
parallel with the rudder hinge line.

14

q 9) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy. Using a toothpick, pack epoxy into
the hole. Rotate the tiller arm so the slot in the arm is
even with the hole in the bottom of the rudder.

q 10) Insert the 2mm x 40mm wire pin through the
slot and into the hole. The wire should extend about
7/8” beyond the bottom edge of the rudder. Allow the
epoxy to fully cure. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

Wire

Pin

Tiller

Arm

For four cycle engines we recommend a .60 - .80 dis­placement engine mounted inverted. This is a very
clean installation and use of an in-cowl muffler is un­necessary. The exhaust can simply be directed out
the bottom of the cowling. Which ever system you
choose, the following assembly steps layout the spe­cific crankshaft location for both two cycle and four
cycle engines. Engines are mounted with 0º thrust.

INST ALLING THE ENGINE TO THE MOTOR MOUNT

For both 2 cycle and 4 cycle engines

q 1) Use a clamp and a spacer to hold the two
mounting beams together. The beams should be level
with each other and parallel. The predrilled mount­ing holes are not the same distance from the beam
surface. The engine should be mounted on the "tall"
side of the beams. See photo # 25 below.

q 11) Loosen the machine screw in the side of the
tiller arm and align the tail wheel wire with the rud­der. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the
machine screw securely .

INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL

q 12) Install the 25mm diameter tail wheel onto
the tail wheel wire. Secure the tail wheel in place
using one 2mm wheel collar and one 2mm x 5mm
machine screw . Slide the wheel collar on enough so
it is up against the tail wheel, but not so tight that the
tail wheel won't turn. The tail wheel should rotate
without binding.

ENGINE INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams
q {4} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws
q {4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws
q {8} 4mm Flat Washers
q {4} 4mm Split Washers
q {4} 4mm Hex Nuts
q {4} 4mm Blind Nuts

ENGINE INSTALLATION OPTIONS

Several options can be used for the engine and

style of installation you choose. For two cycle
engines, we recommend a .40 - .53 displacement en­gine mounted sideways. The Skyraider will accept a
two cycle engine with a stock muffler, but trimming
of the cowl to fit the muffler will be necessary . For a
cleaner and more scale appearance the use of an in­cowl Pitts style muffler, compatible with the engine
you're using, is highly recommended.

Photo # 25

Motor

Mount

Beams

Clamp

Spacer

q 2) Mark the locations of the four engine mount­ing holes on the beams using a pencil. For the engine
to align properly with the front of the cowling, it is
important that the front edge of the engine's drive
washer be 4-1/2” forward back surface of the mount­ing beams.

q 3) When satisfied with the alignment of the en­gine, remove the beams from the clamp and drill 3/32”
pilot holes through the mounting beams at the four
engine mounting hole locations. Double check the
alignment of the engine and then drill out the holes
through the beams using a 5/32” drill bit.

q 4) Mount the engine to the mounting beams us­ing the four 4mm x 35mm machine screws, four 4mm
flat washers, four 4mm split washers and four 4mm
hex nuts. The flat washers and split washers are in­stalled on the bottom of the beams only . Tighten the
screws and nuts completely. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

15

If using an engine equipped with a remote needle

valve we recommend mounting the needle valve
to the engine after installing the motor mount/engine
assembly to the firewall.

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO THE FIREWALL

For 2 cycle engines only

q 5) The engine is mounted at a 90º angle in rela­tion to the firewall. The motor mount beams should
be parallel with the bottom of the firewall. Using a
ruler and a pen, measure and draw a vertical center­line on the firewall.

q 6) Using a ruler and a pen, measure up from
the bottom of the firewall 1-1/2” and place two
marks. Draw a horizontal line at these two marks.

See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

Vertical

Centerline

q 9) On the two horizontal lines you just drew,
measure and place two marks 5/8” to the left of the
vertical centerline and two marks 1-1/16” to the right
of the vertical centerline (looking at the firewall). See

photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

q 10) Hold the motor mount assembly up to the
firewall and double check that the four intersecting
lines line up with the four predrilled holes in the
mounting beams.

q 11) Using a 7/32” drill bit, drill the four mount­ing holes through the firewall for the four motor mount
beam screws.

Horizontal
Centerline

q 7) With your engine still installed on the mount­ing beams, use a ruler and measure the width be­tween the predrilled mounting holes in the motor
mount beams. This distance will vary depending on
the brand and size of the engine you have chosen.

See photo # 28 below.

Photo # 28

X = Distance

between beam

mounting holes

X

q 8) Divide the measurement found in step # 7
in half. Measure and mark this resulting distanceand
place marks above and below the horiztonal center­line. Draw one horizontal line at the marks made
above and below the horizontal centerline.

q 12) Mount the motor mount assembly to the
firewall using the four 4mm x 20mm machine
screws, four 4mm flat washers and four 4mm blind
nuts. Tighten the screws securely to draw the blind
nuts into the back of the firewall completely. See

photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO THE FIREWALL

For 4 cycle engines only

q 13) The engine is mounted 180º down in rela­tion to the firewall. The motor mount beams should
be parallel with the fuselage sides. Using a ruler and
a pen, measure and draw a vertical centerline on the
firewall.

16

q 14) Using a ruler and a pen, measure up from
the bottom of the firewall 1-1/2” and place two
marks. Draw a horizontal line at these two marks.

See photo # 31 below.

q 18) Hold the motor mount assembly up to the
firewall and double check that the four intersecting
lines line up with the four predrilled holes in the mo­tor mount beams.

Photo # 31

Vertical

Centerline

Horizontal
Centerline

q 15) With your engine still installed on the mo­tor mount beams, use a ruler and measure the width
between the predrilled mounting holes in the motor
mount. This distance will vary depending on the
brand and size of the engine you have chosen. See

photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

q 19) Using a 7/32” drill bit, drill the four mount­ing holes through the firewall for the motor mount
beams.

q 20) Mount the motor mount assembly to the fire­wall using the four 4mm x 20mm machine screws,
four 4mm flat washers and four 4mm blind nuts.
Tighten the screws securely to draw the blind nuts
into the back of the firewall completely.

FUEL TANK

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 280cc Molded Fuel Tank
q {1} 4mm x 28mm Nylon Pick-Up Tube
q {2} 4mm x 28mm Prebent Nylon Vent Tube
q {1} 3mm x 18mm Self Tapping Screw
q {1} Length of Fuel Tubing
q {1} Metal Weighted Pick-Up
q {1) Nylon Fuel Cap
q {1} Rubber Stopper
q {1} Nylon Backplate

STOPPER ASSEMBLY

q 1) Identify each of the parts that make up the
fuel tank assembly. See photo # 34 below.

X = Distance

Between Beam

Mounting Holes

X

q 16) Divide the measurement found in step # 15
in half. Measure and mark this resulting distanceand
place marks to the right and left of the vertical center­line. Draw one vertical line at the marks made to the
right and left of the vertical centerline.

q 17) On the two vertical lines you just drew,
measure and place two marks 5/8” below the hori­zontal centerline and two marks 1-1/16” above the
horizontal centerline (looking at the firewall). See

photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

Photo # 34

Silicon

Tube

Cap

Screw

Rubber

Stopper

Backplate

Pickup

Tube

Vent

Tubes

Tank

Clunk

q 2) Using a modeling knife, cut the silicon fuel
tubing to 3-3/4” long. Connect one end of the tubing
to the weighted pick-up.

There are three molded holes in the rubber fuel

tank stopper. Two are opened and one is cov­ered by a thin layer of rubber on the front of the stop­per. Using a modeling knife, remove the thin layer of
rubber to completely open the third hole.

q 3) Push the single 4mm x 28mm nylon pickup
tube through one hole in the rubber stopper until 3/8”
protrudes from the front of the stopper. Slide the ny­lon backplate over the tube at the back of the stopper.

17

q 4) Push one 4mm x 28mm prebent nylon vent
tube through the nylon backplate and through the rub­ber stopper until it protrudes 3/8” from the front of
the stopper.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, remove part of the
second nylon vent tube as shown below . This will be
the fill tube. Push it through the nylon backplate and
through the rubber stopper until it protrudes 3/8” from
the front of the stopper. It is used in conjunction with
the fuel filler that will be installed later. Orientate the
tubes as shown. See figure # 13 below.

Figure # 13

Nylon

Backplate

Fill

Tube

Vent

Tube

Pickup

Tube

(Drawing is Full Size)

q 6) Slide the nylon fuel cap over the three tubes
at the front of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 18mm
self tapping screw into the center hole in the cap. Push
the screw through the stopper and into the nylon back­plate. Begin to tighten the screw, but do not com­pletely tighten it at this time.

q 7) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the
weighted pickup attached, onto the rear portion of the
nylon pickup tube. See photo # 35 below.

Fill

Pickup

Silicon

Tube

Photo # 35

Machine

Screw

Rubber

Stopper

Vent

Cap

Tube

Tube

Backplate

STOPPER INSTALLATION

q 8) Press fit the stopper assembly into the tank
opening. The stopper should be rotated so the nylon
vent tube is pointing straight up towards the top of
the tank. See photo # 36 at top right.

Photo # 36

Pickup

Tube

Top

Vent
Tube

Fill

Tube

q 9) With the stopper assembly in place, the
weighted pickup should be about 3/8” from the rear
of the tank and move freely within the tank. Adjust
the length of the tube accordingly.

q 10) When satisfied with the alignment of the
stopper assembly , tighten the 3mm x 18mm self tap­ping screw until the stopper expands and seals the
tank opening. Do not overtighten the screw as this
could cause the tank to split.

For added security you may wish to apply a thin

bead of silicon sealer around the fuel cap where
it seals around the front of the tank. Make sure not to
get any sealer in the nylon fuel tubes.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

q 11) Install three lengths of silicon fuel tubing
onto the vent, fuel pickup and fuel filler tubes at the
front of the tank. Slide the fuel tank into position in
the tank compartment while feeding the fuel lines out
the predrilled hole in the firewall. The tank should
be installed so that the top of the tank faces the top of
the fuselage and the stopper assembly should engage
the predrilled hole in the firewall.

Do not permanently secure the tank in place until

after balancing the airplane. It may be neces­sary to mount the receiver or the battery pack inside
the tank compartment to help balance the airplane.
After you have completed balancing, secure the tank
in position using a couple of dabs of silicon sealer
between the tank and the forward bulkhead. W e also
recommend sealing the predrilled hole in the firewall
with silicon sealer to prevent exhaust residue from
entering the fuselage.

18

THROTTLE LINKAGE

Photo # 37

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 1.5mm x 380mm Pushrod Wire
q {1} 3mm x 270mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD HOUSING

q 1) Mark and drill a hole through the firewall for
the throttle pushrod housing using a 1/8” drill bit.
Position the hole level with the throttle arm and just
to the outside edge of the motor mounting beam. Be

careful not to drill through the fuel tank!

q 2) Mark and drill a 1/8” hole through the for­ward bulkhead at the approximate location shown.

See figure # 14 below.

Figure # 14

Drill 1/8”

Hole

Forward

Bulkhead

Fuselage

Side

Pushrod

Wire

Make

Bends

SERVO INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 10mm x 10mm x 20mm Hardwood Blocks

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

q 1) Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the two
10mm x 10mm x 20mm hardwood blocks in place on
the two servo rails. The blocks should be positioned
in the center of each rail. See photo # 38 below.

Photo # 38

Throttle

Pushrod

Pushrod
Housing

q 3) Slide the 3mm x 270mm pushrod housing
through the hole in the firewall, through the hole in
the forward bulkhead, and into the servo compart­ment. Leave about 1/4” of the housing extending
beyond the front of the firewall.

q 4) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin
C/A to the pushrod housing where it exits the fire­wall and where it passes through the forward bulk­head. This will secure the housing in place.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, cut off the nylon
pushrod housing 1” in front of the forward servo rail.

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD WIRE

q 6) Notice one end of the 1.5mm x 380mm push­rod wire has a Z-Bend premade in it and the other
end is plain. Slide the plain end of the wire into the
end of the pushrod housing at the firewall. Remove
the throttle arm from the engine and attach the Z-Bend
to the hole farthest out in the throttle arm. Reattach
the throttle arm to the engine.

Hardwood

Block

Servo

Rail

Hardwood

Block

Servo

Rail

q 2) Locate the servos you intend to use for the
elevator, rudder and throttle controls. Install the rub­ber grommets and brass collets onto the servos. The
brass collets should be installed with the flange fac­ing the bottom of the servo.

q 3) Position the servos onto the preinstalled servo
rails as shown below. Drill 1/16” pilot holes for each
of the mounting screws to prevent the rails from split­ting. Note the locations of the servos and their output
shafts. The rudder servo mounts on top of the two
hardwood blocks. See photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

T

R

q 7) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the
throttle pushrod wire until it is aligned with the throttle
arm and does not bind when the throttle barrel is ro­tated. See photo # 37 at top right.

19

T = Throttle
R = Rudder
E = Elevator

E

Front

THROTTLE CONNECTION

RUDDER PULL-PULL CABLES

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

q 1) Install one adjustable servo connector through
the third hole out from the center of one servo arm.
You may have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to
accommodate the servo connector. Remove the ex­cess material from the arm. See figure # 15 below .

Figure # 15

Servo

Arm

Set

Screw

Nut

Servo

Connector

Washer

Washer

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosen­ing during flight.

q 2) Plug the throttle servo into the receiver and
turn on the radio system. Check to ensure that the
throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct
direction. When the throttle stick is moved forward
from idle to full throttle the servo should rotate coun­terclockwise.

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Stranded Wire Cable
q {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns
q {4} Nylon Clevises
q {1} 3mm x 50mm Threaded Rod
q {2} 3mm Flat Washers
q {2} 3mm Nuts
q {4} Brass threaded Couplers
q {4} Brass Crimp Collets

INSTALLING THE CONTROL ROD

q 1) Using a ruler and a pen, measure 7/8” up from
the bottom of the rudder, at the leading edge, and 3/8”
back from the hinge line and place a mark.

q 2) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill a hole through the
rudder at the mark made.

q 3) Insert the 3mm x 50mm threaded rod through
the hole. Install one 3mm flat washer and one 3mm
nut on each side of the threaded rod. Being careful to
keep the threaded rod centered, tighten both nuts.

Do not overtighten the nuts. Y ou do not want to
crush the wood.

q 4) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin
C/A to each nut to prevent the threaded rod from turn­ing and the nuts from coming loose.

q 3 Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo
arm assembly over the plain end of the pushrod wire.
Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their
lowest positions.

q 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully
closed. Angle the arm back about 45º from center
and attach the servo arm to the servo. With the car­buretor barrel fully closed, tighten the set screw in
the adjustable servo connector.

q 5) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire us­ing wire cutters and install the servo arm retaining
screw. See photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

Connector

Servo

Pushrod

Wire

Servo Arm

q 5) Thread one adjustable nylon control horn onto
each side of the threaded rod. The end of each horn
should be flush with the ends of the threaded rod.

See figure # 16 below.

Figure # 16

Threaded

Rod

Rudder

Washer

Adjustable

Control

Horn

Nut

INSTALLING THE PULL-PULL CABLE

q 6) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover­ing from over the two rudder cable exit slots in the
rear of the fuselage. The center of each slot is located
on each side of the fuselage, 4” in front of the rudder
hinge line and 2-1/8” below the horizontal stabilizer .
Each slot is 1-1/2” long and 3/16” tall.

20

q 7) Using wire cutters, cut the length of wire cable
exactly in half. If the wire begins to unravel, care­fully twist the wire back into shape and apply a drop
of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the end of the wire.

q 8) Install one threaded coupler onto only one
end of each wire cable. See figure # 17 and steps

A - D below.

Figure # 17

Clevis

Wire

Cable

Crimp
Collet

q 12) Thread two nylon clevises onto the two re­maining threaded couplers. For security, thread the
clevises on no less than 5/16”.

q 13) Hold the rudder in neutral using a couple of
pieces of masking tape. Plug the rudder servo into
the receiver and center the servo. The servo arm
should be perpendicular to the fuselage sides.

q 14) Working with the right side first, install one
nylon clevis/threaded coupler assembly into the outer
hole in the servo arm.

Threaded

Coupler

Loop

q A) Slide one crimp collet onto the cable,
non-flange side first.

q B) Thread one end of the cable through the
predrilled hole in the end of the threaded coupler,
then thread the cable back into the crimp collet.

q C) Loop the cable around and thread it back
through the crimp collet. Pull the cable tight to
eliminate the slack in the loop.

q D) Squeeze the crimp collet with pliers to
secure the cable in place. Apply a couple of drops
of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the collet to lock it in
place. After the glue has cured, pull on the cable
to ensure the crimp collet is secure.

q 9) Thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two
threaded couplers. For security thread the clevises
on no less than 5/16”.

q 10) Attach one clevis to each adjustable control
horn and thread the other end of the cable through the
exit slots in the sides of the fuselage and into the servo
compartment. See photo # 41 below.

q 15) Slide one crimp collet, non-flange side first,
over the length of cable on the right side. Thread the
cable through the predrilled hole in the threaded cou­pler.

Make sure the two cables do not cross inside

the fuselage. The cable from the right side of
the rudder should attach to the right side of the servo
arm.

q 16) While keeping the rudder and the rudder
servo centered, pull the cable tight and secure it in
place using the same technique as previously. Re­move the excess cable using wire cutters.

q 17) Repeat steps # 14 - # 16 for the opposite
cable. See photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

Crimp
Collet

Threaded

Coupler

Cable

Clevis

Servo

Arm

Photo # 41

Clevis

Adjustable

Control

Horn

Threaded

Coupler

q 11) Install a long dual-arm servo arm onto the
rudder servo. Use wire cutters to remove the excess
arms.

Cable

q 18) Remove the masking tape from the rudder.
With you radio system turned on and the rudder servo
and rudder centered, check for slack in the cables.
They should be fairly tight. Move the rudder to one
side, then let go of the stick. The rudder should come
back to center. Do this a couple of times in each di­rection. If the rudder does not come back to center,
the cables are too tight. You can change the tension
of the cables by adjusting the clevises. For best re­sults, you want the cables to be as tight as possible,
but not so tight that the linkage binds or does not cen­ter when the rudder goes to neutral.

21

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 740mm Split Elevator Pushrod Assembly
q {2} Nylon Clevises
q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly
q {2} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplates
q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

Make sure that when you install the pushrod, it
is installed below the rudder cables and that the

cables do not get wrapped around the pushrod wires
or dowel.

q 6) Thread two nylon clevises onto the threaded
ends of both elevator pushrods. For security, thread
the clevises on no less than 5/16”.

q 1) Position one elevator control horn on the bot­tom of each elevator half. The centerline of each
horn should be 5/8” out from the fuselage sides at
the hinge line. Position the control horns so the cle­vis attachment holes are directly in-line with the
hinge lines. The control horns should be angled to­wards the fuselage sides. See figure # 18 below.

Figure # 18

Control

Horn

Control

Horn

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a
3/32” drill bit, and the control horns as a guide, and
drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves.

q 3) Mount the control horns to the elevators by
inserting the four 2mm x 25mm machine screws
through the control horn mounting bases, through the
elevator halves and into the backplates. Tighten the
screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want
to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the cover­ing from over the two elevator pushrod exit slots in
the rear of the fuselage. The center of each slot is
located on each side of the fuselage, 4” in front of the
rudder hinge line and 1” below the horizontal stabi­lizer. Each slot is 1-1/2” long and 3/16” tall.

q 5) Slide the elevator pushrod assembly through
the fuselage and out the two pushrod exit holes. To
make this easier, drop two pieces of string through
the exit holes and into the servo bay. T ie one piece of
string to each wire and carefully pull the string. This
will guide the pushrod wires out the exit holes.

q 7) Attach each clevis to the outermost hole in
each control horn. See photo # 43 below .

Photo # 43

Clevis

Control

Horn

Pushrod

Wire

q 8) Install one adjustable servo connector through
the fourth hole out from the center of one servo arm.
You may have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to
accommodate the servo connector. Remove the ex­cess material from the arm. See figure # 19 below .

Figure # 19

Servo

Arm

Servo

Connector

Washer

Set

Screw

Washer

Nut

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond thin C/A to
the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosen­ing during flight.

q 9) Slide the elevator pushrod wire through the
hole in the adjustable connector .

q 10) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to
hold each elevator half in neutral.

q 11) Plug the elevator servo into the receiver and
center the servo. Place the servo arm onto the servo.
The servo arm should be perpendicular to the fuselage
sides and point towards the middle of the fuselage.

22

q 12) With both elevator halves and the servo arm
centered, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo
connector. Remove the excess wire using wire cut­ters. See photo # 44 below.

INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGES

q 4) Thread one nylon clevis onto one 2mm x
250mm threaded wire. For security thread the clevis
on no less than 5/16”.

Photo # 44

Servo

Arm

Servo

Connector

Elevator
Pushrod

q 13) Remove the masking tape from the elevator
halves. Adjust each elevator half by turning the cle­vises in or out until both elevator halves are centered.

AILERON LINKAGES

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 2mm x 250mm Threaded Wires
q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates
q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws
q {2} Nylon Clevises
q {2} Adjustable Servo Connectors

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

q 1) The centerline of the control horns are located
2-5/8” out from the inside edge of each aileron. Posi­tion the control horns on the bottom of the ailerons
with the clevis attachment holes directly in-line with
the hinge lines. The control horns should also be par­allel with hinge lines as well. See figure # 20 below .

Figure # 20

q 5) Install one adjustable servo connector onto the
outermost hole in one aileron servo arm. You may
have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to accommo­date the servo connector. See figur e # 21 below.

Figure # 21

Servo

Arm

Servo

Connector

Washer

Set

Screw

Washer

Nut

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond thin C/A to
the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosen­ing during flight.

q 6) Slide the pushrod wire through the hole in
the adjustable connector. Connect the nylon clevis to
the third hole down in the control horn.

q 7) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold
the aileron in neutral. Connect the leads of the Y­harness to the two servo leads and plug the Y-harness
into the receiver. Center the servo, tighten the set screw
in the adjustable servo connector and remove the ex­cess wire using wire cutters. See photo # 45 below.

Photo # 45

Control

Horn

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a
3/32” drill bit and the control horns as a guide and
drill the mounting holes through the ailerons.

q 3) Mount the control horns to the ailerons by
inserting the 2mm x 25mm machine screws through
the control horn mounting bases, through the aile­rons and into the backplates. Tighten the screws,
but do not overtighten them. You do not want to
crush the wood.

Machine

Screw

Backplate

Pushrod

Servo

Connector

Clevis

Control

Horn

Wire

q 8) Repeat steps # 4 - # 7 for the second aileron
linkage.

q 9) Remove the masking tape from both ailerons.
Check to make sure both ailerons are centered. If
they are not, adjust the length of the linkages using
the clevises or servo connectors.

23

CANOPY

COWL

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

CANOPY PREPARATION

q 1) Using a sharp knife or Lexan Canopy Scis­sors, trim out the canopy along the molded scribe lines.
Carefully sand the edges of the canopy smooth using
220 grit sandpaper.

q 2) Test fit the canopy to the fuselage. The
canopy should be centered over the top of the fuse­lage and the front edge of the canopy deck should
be flush with the front edge of the firewall. See

photo # 46 below.

Photo # 46

Canopy

Deck

Flush

Canopy

(Canopy and canopy deck are one piece)

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling
q {2} Molded Plastic Cowl Fairings
q {3} 10mm x 10mm x 20mm Hardwood Blocks
q {3} 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Housing
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Snap Ring
q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Plug

INSTALLING THE COWL BLOCKS

q 1) Test fit the three 10mm x 10mm x 20mm hard­wood cowl mounting blocks onto the firewall and the
lower fuselage. One block is positioned on the top
center of the firewall, flush with the top of the fuse­lage. One block is positioned on each side of the lower
fuselage. Use a modeling knife and 220 grit sandpa­per to contour each of the blocks to fit flush with the
outer surface of the fuselage. See photo # 48 below.

Photo # 48

Top Cowl
Mounting

Block

q 3) When satisfied with the fit, remove the
canopy . W ash the canopy with a soft cloth using warm
water and liquid soap. Dry off the canopy and then
allow it to air dry for about 15 minutes.

q 4) Using 3M Fineline masking tape, mask off
the window panels so that only the canopy frame and
the canopy deck are exposed. Paint the canopy using
T opflite Lusterkote black spray paint. Allow the paint
to cure and remove the masking tape.

MOUNTING THE CANOPY

q 5) Glue the canopy in place using RC256
Canopy Glue. Run a bead of the glue along the entire
perimeter of the canopy , then set the canopy it place.
Use pieces of masking tape to hold the canopy in place
until the glue fully cures. See photo # 47 below.

Photo # 47

Lower Side

Mounting Block

(1 ea. side)

q 2) When satisfied with the fit, use 220 grit sand­paper and remove the paint from where the mounting
blocks will be glued in place.

q 3) Glue the three mounting blocks in place us­ing Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy . Allow the epoxy to
fully cure before proceeding.

MOUNTING THE COWL

q 4) Slide the cowling over the fuselage and at­tach a propeller to the engine.

q 5) Align the cowl so the prepainted black anti­glare stripe is even with the edges of the canopy deck.
The rear edge of the cowl, at the top, should be pushed
up against the scoop molded into the top of the canopy
deck and the front of the cowling should be centered
around the crankshaft of the engine.

q 6) Temporarily hold the cowling in place using
pieces of masking tape. Using a pencil, place guide
marks on the fuselage directly behind the trailing edge
of the cowl. Place the marks in the areas just behind
the cowl mounting blocks.

24

q 7) Remove the cowl and measure the distances
from the guide marks on the fuselage to the center of
the cowl mounting blocks.

q 12) Push the fuel filler housing into the hole and
snap the nylon snap ring over the housing from the
inside of the cowl. See figure # 22 below.

q 8) Slide the cowl back into position and hold it
in place using pieces of masking tape. Use the guide
marks and measurements to position the holes on the
cowl for the three mounting screws.

q 9) Drill 5/64” holes into the cowl and through
the hardwood blocks at the mounting hole positions.
Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes through only
the cowl using a 1/8” drill bit. Secure the cowl in
place using the three 3mm x 10mm wood screws. See

photo # 49 below.

Photo # 49

Wood

Screw

Wood

Screw

q 10) Cut holes in the cowl to access the glow plug,
high and low speed needle valves and cylinder head
clearance, if using a four cycle engine or a two cycle
engine larger than the Magnum XL .46. Remove the
cowl and install the muffler onto the engine. We rec­ommend using an in-cowl Pitt's style muffler, but you
can use a stock muffler, if using a .40 - .46 displace­ment engine. Make the cutout for muffler clearance
and reinstall the cowl to check the fit. A Dremel T ool
with a rotary sanding bit works best for this. See

photo # 50 below.

Figure # 22

1

SNAP

RING

COWL

HOUSING

3

FUEL

TUBING

2

PLUG

PUSH IN

INSTALLING THE FUEL LINES

q 13) Cut to length and attach the vent line to the
muffler pressure nipple and fuel pickup line to the
fuel nipple on the carburetor (if using a standard car­buretor engine) or on the fuel nipple on the needle
valve assembly (if using an engine equipped with a
remote mounted needle valve).

q 14) Slide the fuel filler line through the fuel filler
housing mounted in the cowl. Leave about 1” of line
exiting the outside of the cowl and cut off the remainder .
Attach the nylon fuel filler plug to the fuel line and push
the plug into the housing. Refer to figure # 22.

To fill the fuel tank you must first completely

close the needle valve on the engine. Pull the
fuel filler line out the housing by gently grasping the
fuel filler plug. Remove the vent line from the muf­fler and fill through the fuel filler line. When the
tank is full, reattach the vent line to the muffler and
install the fuel filler plug into the filler line and push
it back into the housing to keep it in place. Reopen
the needle valve to the original setting.

Photo # 50

Exhaust

Stacks

(Recommended Pitts Style muffler shown)

INSTALLING THE FUEL FILLER

q 11) Remove the cowl. Using a 5/16” drill bit, drill
a hole through the cowl to accept the nylon fuel filler
housing. W e suggest drilling the hole on the bottom of
the cowl, so the housing is out of the way.

Cut

Opening

INSTALLING THE COWL FAIRINGS

q 15) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy
Scissors, cut out each of the two cowl fairings along
the outside edge of the molded radius. See photo #

51 below.

Photo # 51

25

q 16) Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding
block, carefully sand the edges of both fairings
smooth.

q 17) One plastic fairing is located on each side
of the fuselage. Position the fairings as shown. See

photo # 52 below.

q 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the
side of the fuselage, near the receiver , for the antenna
to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and se­cure it to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band and
a modified servo arm. See figure # 23 below .

Figure # 23

Cut

Servo

Arm

Photo # 52

Rear Edge

of Cowl

Fairing

If you look closely at the fairings, you will no-

tice they have a long and a short side with a
peak separating the two. Align the peak with the rear
edge of the cowl. The short side should be under­neath the cowl.

q 18) Glue the fairings to the fuselage sides using
RC256 Canopy Glue. Hold them in place with pieces
masking tape until the glue completely cures.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY

q 1) Plug the servo leads and the switch lead into
the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch
also. You may want to use two extension leads
plugged into the receiver to make connecting the ai­leron and retract servo leads easier when you install
the wing.

q 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foam
rubber to protect them from vibration. Position both
of these items behind the servos, cradled in the foam
part of the turtle deck. Use extra foam pieces and scrap
wood glued between the fuselage sides to hold them in
position. Run the extensions forward, under the ser­vos, to keep them out of the way of the pushrods.

When balancing the airplane you may need to

move the battery or receiver forward or aft to
achieve proper balance. In our test airplane, using a
Magnum XL .46ARNV two stroke engine, the bat­tery and receiver were mounted as per step # 2.

Rubber

Antenna

Modified

Servo Arm

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

Band

To Vertical

Fin

q 4) The switch should be mounted on the fuse­lage side, opposite the muffler, close enough to the
receiver so the lead will reach. Use the faceplate of
the switch itself to locate and mark the switch cutout
and mounting holes.

q 5) Cut out the switch hole using a modeling
knife. Use a 5/64” drill bit and drill out the two mount­ing holes through the fuselage side.

q 6) Secure the switch in place using the two ma­chine screws provided with the radio system.

q 7) Mount the optional Cirrus On-Board Battery
Indicator and the optional Ernst charge jack to the
fuselage side. Plug the battery indicator into an empty
slot in the receiver and secure the charge lead firmly
into the charge jack.

APPLYING THE DECALS

q 8) Using a pair of scissors cut out each decal
along it's edge.

q 9) Using a paper towel soaked with a small
amount of rubbing alcohol, clean the areas of the cov­ering where the decals will be applied.

For decal placement, use the box cover photos
and the photo on the front of the instruction

manual. Not all of the decals will be used.

q 10) Carefully apply each decal. Use a soft cloth
to rub down the decals and squeeze out any trapped
air beneath them.

26

BALANCING

q 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced
correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to
lose control and crash. The center of gravity is lo-

cated 4-3/8” back from the leading edge of the wing,
at the fuselage sides. This location is recommended

for initial test flying and trimming. There is a 3/8”
margin forward and aft, but it is not recommended
that the center of gravity be located any further back
than 4-3/4”.

the fuel tank empty.

Balance the Skyraider upside down with

q 6) If one side of the wing falls, that side is
heavier than the opposite. Add small amounts of lead
weight to the bottom side of the lighter wing half.
Follow this procedure until the wing stays level when
you lift the airplane.

CONTROL THROWS

q 1) We highly recommend setting up the
Skyraider using the control throws listed below. We
have listed control throws for both initial test
flying/sport flying and aerobatic flying.

q 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using a
couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the
top side of the wing 4-3/8” back from the leading edge,
at the fuselage sides.

q 3) Turn the airplane upside down. Place your
fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.

q 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose
heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack fur­ther back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does
not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on
the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If
the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To
correct this, move the battery and receiver forward or
if this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or
use a brass heavy hub spinner hub, similar to those
offered by Harry Higley. When balanced correctly,
the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when
you lift it up with your fingers.

Once you have flown and trimmed the Skyraider

the balance point can be moved forward or aft
up to 3/8” to change the flight performance. Moving
the balance point back will cause the airplane to be
more responsive, but less stable. Moving the balance
point forward will cause the airplane to be more stable,
but less responsive. Do not fly the Skyraider be-

yond the recommended balance range or an un­controllable crash could result!

LATERAL BALANCE

After you have balanced the Skyraider on the

C.G. you should laterally balance it. Doing this
will help the airplane track straighter.

q 2) Turn on the radio system and with the trim
tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control
surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises. The
servo arms should be centered also.

q 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron con­trol surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the
amount of the control throw in each surface. The

control throws should be measured at the widest
point of each surface!

INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING

Ailerons: 5/16” up 5/16” down
Elevator: 5/16” up 5/16” down
Rudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 1/2” up 1/2” down
Elevator: 9/16” up 9/16” down
Rudder: 1” right 1” left

Do not use the aerobatic settings for ini­tial test flying or sport flying.

q 4) By moving the position of the clevis at the
control horn toward the outermost hole, you will de­crease the amount of throw of that control surface.
Moving the clevis toward the control surface will in­crease the amount of throw.

FLIGHT PREPARATION

q 1) Check the operation and direction of the
elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle.

q A) Plug in your radio system per the

manufacturer's instructions and turn everything on.

q 5) Turn the airplane upside down. Attach one
loop of heavy string to the engine crankshaft and one
to the tail wheel wire. With the wings level, carefully
lift the airplane by the string. This may require two
people to make it easier.

q B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on
the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move
up. If it they do not, flip the servo reversing switch
on your transmitter to change the direction.

27

q C) Check the rudder . Looking from behind
the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The
rudder should move to the right. If it does not, flip
the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to
change the direction.

q D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle
stick forward should open the carburetor barrel. If it
does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your trans­mitter to change the direction.

q E) From behind the airplane, look at the ai­leron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick
to the right. The aileron should move up and the other
aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the
servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change
the direction.

q 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the
Skyraider to ensure that everything is tight and well
bonded. This should include all of the control sur­face hinges as well.

q 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do
this with the fuel tank empty.

q 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move
in the correct direction and not bind in any way.

q 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual
rate switches double check that they are on the low
rate setting for your first few flights.

q 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are
moving the proper amount for both low and high
rate settings.

q 2) Check Control Surface Throw.

q A) The Rudder should move 3/4” left and

3/4” right from center. If it moves too far, turn both
the adjustable control horns out away from the rud­der. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw.

q B) Both elevator halves should move 5/16”
up and 5/16” down from center. If they move too far ,
move the pushrod clevises to a hole in the elevator
horns away from the elevator halves. Do the oppo­site if there is not enough throw . Both elevator halves
should also travel the same amount throughout their
total movement.

q C) The ailerons should move 5/16” up and
5/16” down from center. If the ailerons move too
much, move the clevises to a hole in the clevises far­ther away from the ailerons. Do the opposite if there
is not enough throw . It is important that both ailerons
move the same amount, both up and down.

q D) Once the control throws and movements
are set, tubing must be added to the clevises to ensure
they do not release in the air. Cut a piece of fuel line
into 1/4” pieces. Unsnap the clevises and slip one
piece over each clevis. Snap the clevises back in place
and slide the tubing up over them.

PREFLIGHT CHECK

q 1) Completely charge your transmitter and re­ceiver batteries before your first day of flying.

q 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully
extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

q 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of
balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which
could lead to engine and/or airframe failure.

q 9) Check the operation of the retracts. There
should be no binding present when the retracts are
moving up and down.

q 10) When the retracts are in the full up or full
down position the retract servo should be idle. Also
check to ensure the retracts lock in both the up and
down positions.

FLYING

The Skyraider is designed for those pilots who are
experienced in flying sport models. It is in no way a
trainer. If you do not feel comfortable that you are
able to test fly the airplane don't hesitate to ask some­one for help getting it tested and trimmed out. T ypi­cally, sport airplanes such as the Skyraider, require
some different flying techniques that you might not
be familiar with. It is very important to let the air­plane get up to flying speed before lifting off. Pull­ing the plane off the ground too fast will cause the
airplane to stall and crash. Y ou should allow the plane
to roll out until the tail is completely off the ground
and flying. Allow the airplane to roll out about 50
feet more and gently pull it off the ground and into a
shallow climb to altitude.

28

In the air, the Skyraider flies like any other sport aero-

batic plane. Loops, rolls, low passes and most any

other maneuvers are all possible. Because it is a short

coupled airplane you must be aware of high speed

stalling. This is when the airplane is at full power

and too much up elevator is input at once. It causes

the airplane to snap. To prevent this, make sure the

elevator is set up to our recommended test flying and

sport flying settings. When set up to aerobatic set-

tings, make sure the airplane is not balanced tail heavy

and be gentle on the elevator.

When it is time to land always bring the airplane in

with a small amount of power. It is not a good habit

to just chop the throttle and dive the airplane to the

ground. Just like a real airplane, gradually reduce

power along with altitude and speed. When you are

about 2-3 feet off the ground, reduce power to idle

and gently let the airplane settle onto the runway. Be

careful not to over control. If your airplane is equipped

with the optional retracts, don't forget to put the gear

down before landing!

NOTES

______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________

__________________________________________

______________________________________________

____________________________________________

___________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________
__________________________________________
______________________________________________
____________________________________________
___________________________________________
__________________________________________

29

TRIM CHART

After you have test flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to
begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose
trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these
observations and related corrections will result in a truer, straighter and better flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and Try for hands off straight Readjust linkages so Tx

random maneuvers. and level flight. trims are centered.

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers. A) Too sensitive, jerky If A) Change linkages to

controls. reduce throws.
B) Not sufficient control. If B) Increase throws.

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight flight, A) Airplane continues If A) Thrust is correct.

chop throttle quickly. level path for short

distance.
B) Airplane pitches nose up. If B) Decrease downthrust.
C) Airplane pitches nose If C) Increase downthrust.
down.

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll A) Continues in bank for If A) Balance is good.
Longitudinal Balance to 45º bank and moderate distance.

neutralize controls. B) Nose pitches up. If B) Add nose weight.

C) Nose drops. If C) Remove nose weight.

Yaw** Into wind, do inside A) Wings level throughout. If A) Trim is correct.

loops using only elevator. B) Yaws to right in both If B) Add left rudder trim.
Repeat tests doing inside and outside loops.
outside loops from C) Yaws to left in both If C) Add right rudder trim.
inverted entry. inside and outside loops.

D) Yaws to right on inside, If D) Add left aileron trim.
and left on outside loops.
E) Yaws left on inside, and If E) Add right aileron trim.
right on outside loops.

Lateral Balance Into wind, do tight A) Wings are level and If A) Trim is correct.

inside loops. plane falls to either side.

B) Falls off to left in loops. If B) Add weight to right
Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.
C) Falls off to right in loops. If C) Add weight to left
Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.

Aileron Rigging With wings level, pull A) Climb continues along If A) Trim is correct.

to vertical climb and same path.
neutralize controls. B) Nose tends to go to If B) Raise both ailerons

inside loop. very slightly.
C) Nose tends to go to If C) Lower both ailerons
outside loop. very slightly.

*Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact. Check both.
**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Elevator halves may be
moving different amounts. Check to ensure they travel the same amount both up and down. Right and left references
are from the rear of the plane, as if you were in the cockpit.

30

PRPR

PR

PRPR

PRPR

PR

PRPR

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We
would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about
this kit. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and
make sure our addr ess faces out .

ODUCT EVODUCT EV

ODUCT EV

ODUCT EVODUCT EV

ODUCT EVODUCT EV

ODUCT EV

ODUCT EVODUCT EV

ALUALU

ALU

ALUALU

ALUALU

ALU

ALUALU

AA

TION SHEETTION SHEET

A

TION SHEET

AA

TION SHEETTION SHEET

AA

TION SHEETTION SHEET

A

TION SHEET

AA

TION SHEETTION SHEET

1) Kit: Global Skyraider 40 - 46 ARF

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

q Magazine Ads q Friend
q Hobby Shop q Other
q Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

q Magazine Ads q Price
q Type of Model q Box Art
q Recommendation q Other
q Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the
written instructions? If yes, please explain.
q Yes q No

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of
the photographs. If yes, please explain.
q Yes q No

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

6) Were any of the kit parts:

q Damaged q Wrong Size
q Missing q Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you
contact our Customer Service Department to re
solve the problem?
q Yes q No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If
yes, please explain.
q Yes q No

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit
q Hardware Supplied q Price
q Other

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit
q Hardware Supplied q Price
q Other

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If
no, please explain.
q Yes q No

_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________
_____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by
other manufacturers?

q Better Than q As Good
q Not as Good

Additional Comments: _________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________

31

Fold along dotted line

Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Customer Service Department

18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA. 92728

Fold along dotted line

Post Office

will not
deliver
without

proper

postage

32