The Skyraider was designed to be a replacement for the naval dive bombers that were in use in the
1940's. It was felt that one aircraft could be designed that would be able to fill that role and much more,
and that reducing the crew to a single pilot would result in weight savings and speed increases, both
factors that would enable the aircraft to carry more ordinance more effectively.
This was exactly what happened when the prototype was first flown on March 18, 1945. The
Skyraider was a single seat ground attack aircraft. It carried two 20mm cannons and up to 6000lbs. of
externally stored weapons. The Skyraider was powered by one Wright Cyclone radial engine producing
2400 horsepower . Because of it's successes in the later parts of the V ietnam war and throughout the
Korean war, the U.S. Navy called the Skyraider "the best and most ef fective close support airplane in
the world."
Now you too can experience the same feeling with your new Global Skyraider ARF. The Global
Skyraider is built by master craftsmen, utilizing the finest grades of balsa, light ply , foam and fiberglass.
It's covered using heat shrink polyester material, just like you would buy at your local hobby shop.
Want to install retracts into your new Skyraider? We've already installed the hardwood rails, cut out
the wheel wells and strut channels to make it as easy as possible. Don't want to install retracts?
We've provided all the necessary hardware to install fixed main gear . In fact, we've provided all of the
hardware to finish the Skyraider. Fuel tank, wheels, pushrods, pull-pull cables, clevises and much
more. It's all in the kit. Don't worry about trying to find an aftermarket fiberglass cowl either. We've
provided a one piece fiberglass cowl that's even prepainted to match the covering! With this kind of
quality prefabrication, you'll be in the air and strafing ground targets in no time!
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help
with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN. 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
2
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual
thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Skyraider ARF . Use the parts listing below to identify and
separate all of the parts before beginning assembly.
ÄKIT CONTENTSÃWe have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification
during assembly . W e recommend that you regroup the parts in the same manner . This will ensure you have all
of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.
Note - Part numbers for servo extensions, Y-harness,
retract servo and On-Board Battery Indicator are for
Hitec and JR radio systems. These items are also
available with different connectors for use with Futaba
and Airtronics radio systems.
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits
q Phillips Screwdriver
q Builders Triangle
q 220 Grit Sandpaper
q Standard Masking T ape
q Paper T owels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Wire Cutters
q 4mm Hex Wrench
q Global 12V Charger (# 110270 )
q Magnum Power Panel (# 237390)
q Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072)
q Magnum 4-W ay W rench (# 237420)
1”= 25.4mm
2”= 50.8mm
3”= 76.2mm
6”= 152.4mm
21”= 533.4mm
24”= 609.6mm
30”= 762.0mm
36”= 914.4mm
12”= 304.8mm
18”= 457.2mm
4
If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address below:
Customer Service Center
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA. 92728
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
E-Mail: service@globalhobby.com
ÄSUGGESTIONÃ To avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are
needed for assembly . Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper , both to protect the aircraft
and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the
bags.
ÄNOTEÃ Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are
aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the Skyraider is hand made from
natural materials, every airplane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you
should find the fit superior and assembly simple.
WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS REQUIRED
q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons
q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
q {6} C/A Hinges
q {4} 8mm x 15mm x 20mm Wood Blocks
q {8} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws
q {2} Precovered Servo Hatches
HINGING THE AILERONS
q 1) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of each wing half and the leading edge of
each of the two ailerons.
q 2) T est fit the six C/A hinges into the hinge slots
in each aileron. Each hinge should be able to be inserted far enough into the aileron so the centerline of
the hinge is flush with the leading edge of the aileron.
If the hinges cannot be inserted deep enough, use a
modeling knife and cut the hinge slots deeper. See
figure # 1 below.
Figure # 1
Modeling Knife
Hinge Slot
q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the hinges in
the ailerons, remove them and test fit the hinges into
the trailing edge of the wing halves. The centerline
of each hinge should be flush with the trailing edge
of the wing halves. If they are not, perform the same
technique as done in step # 2 above.
q 4) T est fit the ailerons to the wing halves, making sure the ailerons engage each hinge completely.
Push the ailerons tight up against the trailing edge of
the wing halves. Move the ailerons up and down to
ensure they move smoothly. The gap between the
leading edge of the ailerons and the trailing edge of
the wing halves should be no more that 1/32”.
q 5) Apply 6-8 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of both sides of each hinge. Allow a
few seconds between drops for the C/A to wick into
the hinge. See figure # 2 below.
Figure # 2
Apply C/A
Here
Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time
as the excess C/A may run down the length of
the hinge line. Once cured, the ailerons may be stiff
and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move
the ailerons up and down about five to ten times to
free them up.
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS
q 6) Locate the two aileron servos, two 12” aileron extensions, one Y-Harness and Dubro heat shrink
tubing that you purchased separately.
5
q 7) Plug the two servos into your radio receiver
and center them both. Make sure the aileron trim tab
on your transmitter is centered as well. Install the
rubber isolation grommets and brass collets onto both
servos. The collets should be installed with the flanges
towards the bottom of the servo.
blocks into place on the servo tray . Allow the epoxy
to fully cure before proceeding.
It is important that you use epoxy in this situa-
tion. C/A glues will not adhere as well to the
hardwoods, and if used, the blocks could break loose
when installing the servo, or worse, during flight.
q 8) Install a single long servo arm onto each of
the servos. The arms should be mounted 90º to the
centerline of the servos. See figure # 3 below .
Figure # 3
Servo Arm
90º
q 9) Locate the two precovered aileron servo
hatches. Turn each of the two hatches upside down
(non-covered side) and you will notice precut oval
holes. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering
from over the two holes. These holes are where the
servo arms will exit and actuate the ailerons.
q 10) Working on the bottom of one servo hatch
for now, place one servo onto the hatch. The servo
arm should be inserted through, and centered in, the
precut hole. Notice the hole is angled. Make sure the
servo is parallel to the hole.
q 11) Holding the servo in proper alignment on
the hatch, temporarily place two of the 8mm x 15mm
x 20mm wood blocks in place behind the servo
mounting tabs. The blocks are positioned vertically
with the taller side up. See photo # 1 below.
Photo # 1
q 14) After the epoxy has cured, place the servo
back onto the hatch. Mark the locations of the four
mounting screws onto the two blocks using a pencil.
q 15) Remove the servo and drill 1/16” pilot holes
through the blocks for the servo mounting screws.
Drilling pilot holes into the wood before install-
ing the screws is important. It will keep the
wood from splitting when the screws are installed.
q 16) Place the servo back onto the servo hatch
and secure it in place with the mounting screws. Repeat steps # 10 - # 15 for the second aileron servo.
On the bottom of each hatch place a mark so you know
which one is for the right and which one is for the
left. This will help keep you from mixing them up.
INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCHES
q 17) Turn one wing panel right side up. Using a
modeling knife and a razor saw, remove the portion
of the root rib above the precut servo exit hole and
cut a half circle in the top of the wing to allow the
servo wire to pass through. See photo # 2 below .
Photo # 2
Remove from
Top Sheeting
Remove from
Root Rib
Hardwood
Block
Servo
Hatch
q 12) Using a pencil, outline the locations of the
two hardwood blocks and the servo onto the bottom
of the servo hatch.
q 13) Remove the parts from the hatch. Using
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy, glue the two wood
Hardwood
Block
Precut
Hole
Servo
Arm
q 18) Attach one 12” aileron extension to one
servo lead. Cut one 1-1/2” length of heat shrink tubing and slide it over the servo lead. Place the tubing
over the servo plugs where the lead and the extension
are connected. Shrink the tubing using a heat gun to
secure the plugs securely . See figur e # 4 below.
Figure # 4
Install Heat Shrink
Tubing Around Plugs
Servo
Lead
Servo
6
Lead
The heat shrink tubing will prevent the plugs
from coming apart during assembly and more
importantly during flight. If you don't use heat shrink
tubing, electrical tape works well also.
q 25) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark
the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw
one vertical line at this location on each side. See
photo # 4 below.
q 19) Using the throttle pushrod wire as a guide,
insert one end through the precut servo lead hole in
the root rib, through the center ribs and into the servo
bay in the middle of the wing. Using masking tape,
tape the servo lead to the end of the wire. Carefully
pull the wire out of the wing while guiding the servo
lead out. When you have pulled the servo lead out,
remove it and the masking tape from the wire.
q 20) Set the servo hatch in place on the bottom
of the wing. The hatch should be orientated with the
servo arm toward the wing tip and up towards the
leading edge.
q 21) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and mark
the four mounting hole locations onto the hatch. The
holes should be located 1/8” in from each edge.
q 22) Drill 5/64” pilot holes through the hatch and
into the hardwood blocks beneath it at the locations
marked. Be careful not to drill through the top of the
wing! Remove the hatch and enlarge the holes in
only the hatch using a 7/64” drill bit. Reinstall the
hatch using the four 2.5mm x 12mm wood screws.
See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
Leading
Servo
Arm
Wood
Screw
Edge
Servo
Hatch
q 23) Repeat steps # 17 - # 22 for the second servo
hatch assembly .
INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE
q 24) Look at the surface of each root rib on both
wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs.
Leave about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does
not pull away.
It is important that the covering be removed
from the root ribs. This will ensure an adequate
wood-to-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure
during flight.
Photo # 4
Draw
Centerline
Dihedral
Brace
q 26) Test fit the dihedral brace into the plywood
box in each wing half. The brace should slide into
each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not,
remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips
until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 5 below.
Photo # 5
Root
Rib
Dihedral
Brace
The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V".
The "V" shape should face the top surface of
the wing when the brace is installed.
q 27) T est fit both of the wing halves together with
the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not useglue at this time! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section
joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove
the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of
the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together
with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat until
you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves.
q 28) When satisfied with the fit of the wing
halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.
JOINING THE WING HALVES
q 29) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy . Working with only one wing half for
now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood
dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral
brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well
as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
7
q 30) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood
box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy
before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.
q 31) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing
halves together to double check that the wing halves
still fit correctly.
Do not remove the covering from over the precut optional retract mounting holes, strut chan-
nels or wheel wells.
q 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into
the rear hole in one mounting slot. The coiled spring
in the gear wire should be facing the trailing edge of
the wing.
q 32) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the
exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the
plywood box in the second wing half and the entiresurface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough
epoxy to fill any gaps.
q 33) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the
two wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See
photo # 6 below.
Photo # 6
Wing
Servo
Lead
Exit
Joint
q 3) The gear wire is held in place using two landing gear straps and four 2.5mm x12mm wood screws.
The straps should be located equal distance from the
front of the gear wire and the back of it.
q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark
the locations of the four 2.5mm x 12mm mounting
screws onto the wing.
q 5) Remove the straps and the gear wire. Drill
four 5/64” holes into the wing for the wood screws.
Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing!
q 6) Reinstall the gear wire and install the straps
using the four 2.5mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten
them completely to secure the gear wire in place. See
photo # 7 below.
Photo # 7
Axle
Landing Gear
Wire
q 34) When the epoxy has fully cured, double
check the center section joint. If any gaps are present,
mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two main gear mounting slots located in the bottom of the wing. One slot is located
in each wing half, 8-3/4” out from the centerline of
the wing and 1-1/4” back from the leading edge. The
slot is 2-1/4” long.
Mounting
Strap
Trailing
Edge
Wood
Screw
q 7) Repeat steps # 2 - # 6 for the second landing
gear wire.
INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS
q 8) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and
one wheel collar with set screw onto each axle. Make
sure the wheels spin free and tighten the set screws in
the wheel collars. See photo # 8 below.
q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two sets of precut wheel wells, gear
strut channels and retract mounting blocks in the bottom of the wing. See photo # 9 below.
Photo # 9
Wheel
Well
q 2) Working with one wing half at a time, trial
fit the retract mechanism onto the hardwood mounting rails.
Strut
Channel
Mounting
Blocks
q 5) Repeat steps # 2 - # 4 for installing the second retract mechanism.
INSTALLING THE RETRACT SERVO
q 6) Install the rubber isolation grommets and
brass collets onto your retract servo. Place the servo
onto the preinstalled rails in the servo compartment
in the top of the wing. The servo output shaft should
face the leading edge of the wing.
q 7) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through
the rails for the mounting screws. Be careful not to
drill through the bottom of the wing!
q 8) Secure the servo in place on the rails using
the mounting screws provided with the servo. See
photo # 11 below.
Photo # 11
Retract
Servo
Output
Shaft
The spacing between the two hardwood rails
should be sufficient for most popular brands of
retracts. If your retract mechanism is wider, you will
need to trim equal amounts of material off of the inside edge of each hardwood rail. If this is necessary ,
we recommend using a Dremel Tool with a sanding
drum attachment.
q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the mechanism,
install the retract onto the rails. Drill 5/64” pilot holes
through the rails to prevent the wood from splitting
when you install the mounting screws. Be careful
not to drill through the top of the wing!
q 4) Install the retract using the mounting screws
provided with the retract. Tighten the screws completely. See photo # 10 below.
Photo # 10
Retract
Mechanism
(not included)
Mounting
Screw
Leading
Edgle
INSTALLING THE RETRACT LINKAGE
q 9) Using wire cutters, cut both 12” 2-56 threaded
rods (not included) to 5” long. Thread one nylon clevis (not included) onto each of the two rods.
q 10) Slide the two threaded rods, with the clevises attached, through the precut slots in the ribs, up
to the retract mechanism. Snap the clevises onto the
adjustable control horns. See photo # 12 below.
Photo # 12
Nylon
Clevis
Pushrod
Wire
Adjustable
Control
Horn
Retract
Arm
The easiest way to get the threaded rods through
the slots is to insert the clevis end first through
the retract servo opening. They will slide through the
slots, up to the retract mechanism without any bending necessary.
9
q 11) Using a ruler, measure the distance your retract mechanism moves from the full up and locked
position to the full down and locked position. For
most retracts this measurement should be about 1”.
See figure # 5 below.
Figure # 5
X
X = Distance of
Actuator Arm
Travel
q 12) To secure the two pushrod wires to the servo
wheel, we suggest using EZ Connectors. For the
mechanism to work properly the EZ Connectors need
to be installed on the servo wheel the exact distance
apart as the distance your retract mechanism travels.
You may need to drill your own holes through the
servo wheel if there are no predrilled holes that fit the
proper measurement. See figure # 6 below .
Figure # 6
X = Measurement From Step # 11
q 15) Rotate the servo wheel 180º so the retracts
are in the full down and locked position. Use pliers
and carefully bend each of the wires to prevent them
from hitting the EZ Connectors. See figure # 7 below .
Figure # 7
EZ
Connector
Make
Bend
Make
Bend
EZ
Connector
When you make the bend in the two wires, this
will shorten the wires slightly. You may need to
readjust the length of the wires using the EZ Connector.
q 16) Rotate the servo wheel back and forth to test
the operation of the retracts. If any binding is present
make small bends or adjustments in the linkage.
It is important that the retract linkage operates
smoothly. Any binding can cause the retract
servo to stall and result in excessive battery drain.
INSTALLING THE RETRACT GEAR COVERS
X
q 13) With the EZ Connectors installed on the
servo wheel slide the threaded wires through the connectors. With the gear in the full UP and locked position, attach the servo wheel to the servo so that the
EZ Connectors and wires are opposite each other . If
necessary, use a modeling knife and remove a portion of the top sheeting to allow clearance for the servo
wheel and connector. See photo # 13 below.
Photo # 13
EZ
Connector
Remove
Sheeting
Pushrod
Wire
q 17) Using Lexan Canopy Scissors or a modeling knife, cut out both plastic retract gear covers, leaving about a 1/8” lip around the entire perimeter to use
as a gluing surface. Cut the two gear covers apart in
the center. See photo # 14 below.
Photo # 14
1/8” Lip for
Gluing Surface
q 18) Test fit the two gear covers in place on the
wing. They should fit inside the gear cutout and the
lip should rest flush on the wing surface. You may
have to make minor adjustments to fit your particular
retract installation. See photo # 15 below.
Photo # 15
q 14) Double check that the retracts are in the full
up and locked position. Tighten the set screws in the
EZ Connectors and cut off the excess wires, leaving
5/16” beyond each EZ Connector as shown above.
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