Global Hobby Ryan STA Assembly Instruction Manual

FULL-SCALE SPECIFICATIONS:

Span: 30 ft. Length: 21 ft. 6 in. Height: 10 ft. 1 in. Weight: 1,600 lbs. loaded Engine: Menasco L-365 engine/125 hp. Maximum speed: 128 mph. Cruising speed: 118 mph. Range: 350 miles Service Ceiling: 10,000 ft.

The Ryan STA is a classic aircraft known for it great handling when modeled. The Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF, finished in YPT-16 military version colors combines all the classic looks with a very easy to assemble and fly model airplane.

In full scale, it's a low-wing monoplane of mixed construction; a metal fuselage, wooden wing spars with fabric covering and external wire bracing. The Ryan STA/YPT-16 has tandem open cockpits and was used by the Army Air Corps for primary training. It was the first monoplane acquired by the Army as a primary trainer. From 1940 to 1942, the Army Air Corps bought nearly 1,200 more similar Ryan trainers as PT-20s, PT-21s, and PT-22s.

We know you'll enjoy owning and flying this historical and beautiful aircraft.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF is distributed

exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 February 2005

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✦IMPORTANT

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✦ The Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF is not intended for inexperienced pilots. It is not a trainer. If you are not

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comfortable flying low wing sport aircraft, we strongly suggest returning the airplane (brand new, in the box with all original packaging and your dated sales receipt) to the place of purchase.

Ryan STA ARF Specifications:

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Wing Span: 57 Inches (1447mm)

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Wing Area: 488 Square Inches (31.5dm2)

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Length: 41 Inches (1041mm)

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Weight RTF: 60-68 Ounces (1700-1930gr)

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Wing Loading: 17 - 20 Ounces Per Square Foot (54 -61gr/dm2)

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle

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Engine Required: .28 - .46 Two-Stroke or .52 Four-Stroke

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Radio Required: 4 Channel or More w/5 Standard Servos

Kit Product Number 127598

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ...................................................................................... 2

Introduction ............................................................................................ 3

Customer Service Information ..............................................................3

Section 1: Our Recommendations ....................................................... 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required ............................................. 5

Section 3: A Note About Covering ....................................................... 5

Section 4: Kit Contents ........................................................................ 6

Section 5: Wing Assembly ................................................................... 7

Section 6: Stabilizer Installation......................................................... 10

Section 7: Control Surface Hinging ................................................... 13

Section 8: Tail Wheel Installation ....................................................... 15

Section 9: Landing Gear Installation ................................................. 17

Section 10: Engine Installation .......................................................... 19

Section 11: Throttle Control System Installation ............................... 20

Section 12: Fuel Tank Assembly and Installation .............................. 23

Section 13: Elevator Control System Installation .............................. 24

Section 14: Rudder Control System Installation ............................... 27

Section 15: Aileron Control System Installation ................................30

Section 16: Cowling Installation ......................................................... 32

Section 17: Wing Struts Installation ................................................... 33

Section 18: Final Assembly................................................................ 35

Section 19: Balancing the Ryan STA ARF ........................................ 37

Section 20: Control Throws ............................................................... 37

Section 21: Preflight Check and Safety............................................. 38

Section 22: Replacement Parts .........................................................38

Product Evaluation Sheet ................................................................... 39

Check out our website for more information on

this and other exciting Sportsman Aviation products!

http://www.globalhobby.com

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Sportsman Aviation guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Sportsman Aviation's liability exceed the original cost of the

purchased kit.

In that Sportsman Aviation has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

SPORTSMAN AVIATION RYAN STA ARF FEATURES

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Prebuilt from High-Quality Balsa and Light Plywood

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Precovered with Real Iron-On, Heat-Shrink Covering Material

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Scale Realism and Great Flight Characteristics

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Prebent Wire Main Landing Gear with Prepainted Semi-Scale Fairings and Steerable Tail Wheel

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Prepainted Molded Cowling, Cockpit Inserts, Fuselage Fairing and Windscreens

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Dual Aileron Servos, Pull-Pull Rudder Cables and Split Elevator Pushrod Assembly for Solid Control Response

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Includes a High-Quality Hardware Package with Adjustable Engine Mounting Beams

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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 80 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings to Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small

parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

to protect the table and to protect the parts.

CUSTOMER SERVICE INFORMATION

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please contact us at the address below:

In the USA:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

Email: service@globalhobby.net

CHECK IT OUT! We urge you to come check out our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will find public message

boards frequented by other Sportsman Aviation product owners and the our support staff. This is a great place to learn about new products, get help and suggestions for your current products or just simply hang out and chat with people that share your same interests.

To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips

and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.

What Engine Should I Use?

The airplane is designed to be flown with a .28-.46 size two-stroke engine. With a powerful .28 size engine, the airplane will be

very light and fly at a slower, more scale-like speed and be able to perform basic aerobatics like its full-scale counterpart. If you use a .46 size engine, the airplane with will fly faster and have good vertical

performance, although it will be heavier and have a higher wing loading. If your flying field is at a

high altitude, we strongly suggest using an engine in the larger size range.

The engine is mounted on its side and adjustable engine mounting beams are included to mount your engine. If you're using a .28 size engine, you should be able to use your

engine's stock muffler without any problem, although you will need a muffler extension to clear the bottom of the firewall. If you're using a .40 or .46 size engine, we suggest using a Pitt's style muffler.

If you prefer to use a four-stroke engine, we recommend using a .52 size engine. This size engine will give the airplane great performance with the scale sound of a four-stroke engine. We don't suggest using a larger four-stroke engine. A larger engine may not physically fit on the firewall, nor inside the cowling.

The engine is mounted sideways and adjustable engine mounting beams are included to mount your engine. Since the muffler pipe on most four-stroke engines is adjustable, no aftermarket muffler should be necessary.

What Radio System and Servos Should I Use?

The airplane can be flown with a basic four-channel radio control system. Ideally, the transmitter should feature dual rates, servo reversing and end point adjustments. Most newer radio control systems have these features and more.

Regarding servos, you will need to use five standard with a minimum of 36oz/in of torque for the flight control surfaces and the throttle. The ailerons use separate servos, so you will need a Y-Harness to connect both aileron servos together.

What Else Do I Need?

There really isn't too much else that you'll need to finish the airplane. For more scale realism, a pilot bust would be a good choice. You'll also need typical modeling supplies, such as foam rubber to protect your receiver and battery, and fuel tubing.

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Ryan STA ARF

QTY. 1 210630 Magnum XL .28ARNV Two-Stroke Engine

QTY. 1 280151 Magnum Muffler Extension

QTY. 1 608360 APC 9 x 6 Propeller

QTY. 5 444104 Cirrus CS-36 Standard Servos

QTY. 2 444713 Cirrus 12" Servo Extensions

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

QTY. 1 115559 Thunderbolt # 3 Performance Glow Plug

QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicone Fuel Tubing

QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber

QTY. 1 867903 Dubro 3/8" Heat-Shrink Tubing

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and Y-Harness are compatible with Hitec and JR radio control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.

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✦ The part number for the Cirrus Servos is compatible with all name-brand radio control systems. The Cirrus servo extensions

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SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your new Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF. We suggest having these items on hand before beginning assembly.

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545 ❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue # 339176 ❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ #1 & #2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ .050, 2.5mm & 3mm Hex Wrenches ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers # 237473 ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill

❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977 ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567677 ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Waxed Paper ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205 ❑ Global Heat Gun # 360920 ❑ Global Heat-Sealing Iron # 360900

SECTION 3: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron.

Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:

❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for approximately

5 - 7 minutes.

❑ After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the

sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.

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✦IMPORTANT

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it will return to its normal color.

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down

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and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

PRO TIP

for any length of time. The extreme heat could distort the molded parts and/or cause the covering material to wrinkle and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio control system.

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✦ You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down,

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We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight)

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✦WARNING

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✦ The fiberglass cowling, plastic landing gear fairings and other assorted plastic parts on your Ryan STA ARF are

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painted. Do not use any harsh chemical cleaners, such as Acetone, to clean the painted surfaces. Use of rubbing alcohol is okay and will not damage the paint.

SECTION 4: KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.

If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us as soon as possible,

using the Customer Service Information on page # 3.

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Prebent Landing Gear Struts ❑ (2) Molded Landing Gear Fairings ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (8) Landing Gear Straps ❑ (2) Wheel Collars w/Grub Screws ❑ (8) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws ❑ (16) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 3-1/4" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ (6) C/A-Style Hinges

ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) Split Pushrod Assembly ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Machine Screws ❑ (6) C/A-Style Hinges

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) Stranded Steel Pull-Pull Cable ❑ (2) Plywood Blocks ❑ (1) M4 x 50mm Threaded Rod ❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (4) Threaded Couplers ❑ (4) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) Crimp Collets ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers ❑ (2) M4 Hex Nuts ❑ (3) C/A-Style Hinges

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 20" Plain Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Tail Wheel Bracket Assembly w/Tail Wheel & Wheel Collar ❑ (1) M2 x 30mm Metal Pin ❑ (3) M3 x 8mm Wood Screws

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 280cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Nylon Fuel Tank Cap ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Nylon Stopper Backplate ❑ (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing ❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) Nylon Straight Fuel Pick-Up Tube ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Vent Tubes ❑ (1) M3 x 22mm Self-Tapping Screw

ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M4 x 18mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M4 Flat Washers ❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (4) M3 Split Washers ❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts

WING STRUT ASSEMBLIES

❑ (2) Wing Struts ❑ (4) Molded Wing Strut Fairings ❑ (8) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws ❑ (1) Rigging Cable

Continued On Next Page

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MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Molded Cowling ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Backplate & Screws ❑ (1) 10 x 6 Composite Propeller (for .40 & .46 Size Engines Only) ❑ (2) Molded Windscreens ❑ (1) Molded Fuselage Fairing ❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (1) Black Striping Tape ❑ (1) Decal Set

SECTION 5: WING ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ (1) Plywood Wing Joiner ❑ (1) M4 x 20mm Socket-Cap Screw ❑ (1) M4 Flat Washer

A complete replacement parts listing, along

with part numbers for ordering convenience,

can be found on page # 38.

❑ (1) Plywood Wing Joiner

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups ❑ Global Heat Gun

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto one aileron servo,

making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Plug one 12" servo extension onto the aileron servo lead. ❑ To prevent the plugs from pulling apart during assembly, or worse,

during flight, secure the plugs together, using a short piece of 3/8" diameter heat-shrink tubing. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.

❑ Remove the aileron from the wing and set it aside. Discard the

temporary hinges. They won't be used.

❑ Working with one wing panel for now, pull the servo extension lead

through the wing panel, using the factory-installed length of string.

Tie the end of the string to the servo extension plug at the servo

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mounting hatch, then pull the string from the other end to guide the servo extension lead out through the top of the wing panel.

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❑ Set the servo into place, making sure that the servo output shaft is

toward the root edge of the wing panel.

❑ Install the aileron servo, making sure to drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes

for the mounting screws.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the aileron servo into the second wing panel.

STEP 2: ALIGNING THE WING PANELS

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the excess covering

material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" overlapped so it does not pull away.

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✦IMPORTANT

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center-section joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the wing center-section joint may fail during flight.

❑ Use a ruler and a pencil to locate and draw a vertical centerline on

one side of the plywood wing joiner.

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✦IMPORTANT

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make sure that this "V" shape is toward the top of the wing panels. This will ensure that the wing panels fit together properly with the correct amount of dihedral.

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✦ The wing joiner is cut in the shape of a shallow "V." When you test-fit the wing joiner in the next procedure,

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❑ Test-fit the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should slide easily

into each wing panel, up to the centerline you drew.

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✦ It's very important to the integrity of the wing

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✦IMPORTANT

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tightly into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly loose. This will ensure that when you glue the wing joiner into place that epoxy can get into the joints between the wing joiner and the joiner box. This will ensure the strongest joint possible.

If the wing joiner does not fit properly, use 220 grit sandpaper

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with a sanding block to lightly sand the wing joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.

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✦ When the wing joiner is installed, it should not fit

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❑ Carefully slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner

temporarily installed (without using glue).

❑ While holding the two wing panels together firmly, make sure that the wing panels are lined up at both the leading and trailing

edges, then look carefully at the center-section joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.

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✦IMPORTANT

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sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit. Remember, when the wing panels are pushed together, there should be few or no gaps in the center-section joint.

STEP 3: JOINING THE WING PANELS

❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, pull the wing panels apart and remove the wing joiner.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the wing

joiner box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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✦ If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a

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❑ Apply a strip of masking tape to the top and bottom edges of the root

rib on each wing panel.

The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting onto the

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wing panels when you join them.

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✦WARNING

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minute epoxy. It is not strong enough. If you use 5 minute epoxy, the wing will fail during flight.

❑ Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to the centerline mark. Quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-fit both wing panels together again to double-check that they still fit together properly. Check the

leading and trailing edges, too. It's important that they be even with each other.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the wing

joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire surface of BOTH root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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✦IMPORTANT

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of epoxy to both root ribs and the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during flight.

❑ Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing

alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.

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✦ Use only 30 or 45 minute epoxy to install the wing joiner and to join the wing panels together. Do not use 5

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✦ It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the wing center-section joint that you apply a generous amount

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STEP 4: CHECKING THE WING CENTER-SECTION JOINT

❑ Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center-section joint. If any gaps are present,

mix a small quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps.

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✦IMPORTANT

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✦ Do not omit this procedure. The wing panels should fit together tightly, but it's possible to have some small gaps

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that appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the wing center-section joint as strong as possible, it's important to fill any gaps, using 30 minute epoxy.

SECTION 6: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Dubro T-Pins

❑ (1) M4 x 20mm Socket-Cap Screw ❑ (1) M4 Flat Washer

❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

STEP 1: MOUNTING THE WING

STEP 2: ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ Place the wing into the wing saddle and push it forward completely,

making sure that the tab in the leading edge of the wing engages the slot in the forward bulkhead.

❑ Push the trailing edge down into place and align the hole in the wing

with the preinstalled blind nut in the wing mounting block inside the fuselage.

❑ Secure the wing into place, using one M4 x 20mm socket-cap screw

and one M4 flat washer. Be careful not to overtighten the screw. You don't want to crush the wing.

❑ Slide the horizontal stabilizer into the mounting slot and center it by

carefully measuring out from each side of the fuselage to each end of the stabilizer (at the trailing edge only for now). When the stabilizer is centered, both measurements will be equal.

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❑ When you're satisfied that the stabilizer is centered at the trailing

edge, draw a mark on each side of the stabilizer (at the trailing edge) where it meets the fuselage sides.

❑ With the marks on the stabilizer lined up with the fuselage sides, hold

only the trailing edge of the stabilizer in position, using a T-Pin.

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aligned. The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side.

When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the stabilizer is square to the wing.

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✦ The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and

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❑ With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to measure the

distance between the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are equal.

❑ When you're satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a

pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of T-Pins to hold the stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.

If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher side of

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the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front of the

airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.

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STEP 3: MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use a pencil to draw a line on

each side of the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

❑ Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage and carefully use a modeling

knife to cut away and remove the covering material from between the lines you drew. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

prevent the epoxy from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabilizer when you slide it into place.

❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to ONLY the top and bottom gluing surfaces of the stabilizer.

❑ Push the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up.

Quickly remove any excess epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabilizer in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured.

❑ After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps between the

stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength. Again, before the epoxy sets up, remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

✦✦

✦ When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering

✦✦

❑ To make it less messy during installation, apply masking tape to the

fuselage around the side of the mounting slot that the stabilizer will slide into. Apply masking tape to the top and bottom of the corresponding side of the stabilizer, too.

❑ Partially slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot.

✦✦

✦ Because the stabilizer has to slide into place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabilizer. This will

✦✦

STEP 4: ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into its mounting slot. To align it properly, the trailing edge of the stabilizer should be even with

the back edge of the fuselage and the stabilizer should be pushed down firmly.

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STEP 5: MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pencil to

draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage.

❑ Remove the vertical stabilizer and use a modeling knife to carefully

cut away and remove the covering material from below the lines you drew. Remove the covering material from the base of the vertical stabilizer, too.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of both the vertical stabilizer and the vertical

stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage.

✦✦

✦ When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering

✦✦

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into place and realign it, double-

checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape or T-Pins to hold the vertical stabilizer in place until the epoxy has fully cured.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

double-check that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

✦✦

✦ While the epoxy sets up, use a builder's triangle to

✦✦

SECTION 7: CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (15) C/A-Style Hinges

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Paper Towels

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS

✦✦

✦Important Information About the C/A-Style Hinges Included with Your Ryan STA ARF

✦✦

The Ryan STA ARF uses C/A-style hinges to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not glue these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other than thin C/A could result in failure of the hinges during flight.

For flutter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by having a tight hinge gap (no more than 1/32") and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control surface flutter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.

❑ Push two T-Pins through the center of three C/A-style aileron

hinges, as shown.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to the leading edge while you are hinging the aileron.

✦✦

✦ The T-Pins will keep the hinges centered and square

✦✦

✦

✦✦

❑ Slide one hinge into each hinge slot in one aileron, making sure that

you push each hinge in up to the T-Pins. Don't glue the hinges into the aileron yet though.

❑ Push the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the trailing edge of the corresponding side of the wing. Remove the T-Pins

and push the aileron into its final position. The aileron should be pushed firmly up against the trailing edge, so that there is a minimal hinge gap (no more than 1/32"), and the curved tip of the aileron should match the curved tip of the wing. There should be a small gap between the root end of the aileron and the wing.

❑ While holding the aileron tight against the trailing edge of the wing

panel, pivot the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line, using C/A

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Debonder.

❑ Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the aileron up

and down several times to free up the hinges.

PRO TIP

the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the other aileron to the wing, making sure to check the integrity of the hinges

after the C/A fully cures. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come loose during flight.

After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and wing and pull on the aileron like you are trying to pull out

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES AND THE RUDDER

❑ Hinge the elevator halves, using the same techniques that you used

to hinge the ailerons. Each elevator half is hinged using three hinges. When hinging the elevator halves, the tip of each elevator half should be even with the tips of the horizontal stabilizer and there should not be more than a 1/32" wide hinge gap.

SECTION 8: TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Tail Wheel Bracket Assembly w/Tail Wheel & Wheel Collar ❑ (1) M2 x 30mm Metal Pin

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

elevator halves to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.

❑ Hinge the rudder, using the same techniques that you used to hinge

the ailerons and the elevator halves. The rudder is hinged using three hinges. When hinging the rudder, the top of the rudder should be even with the top of the vertical stabilizer and there should not be more than a 1/32" wide hinge gap.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

rudder to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.

✦✦

✦ After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the

✦✦

✦ After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the

✦✦

❑ (3) M3 x 8mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ #1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ .050 Hex Wrench ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

❑ Double-check that the tiller arm is completely seated into the tail

wheel bracket (you may need to loosen the grub screw in the tiller arm to adjust the fit), then use a rotary tool with a cutting disc attachment to carefully cut the top of the tail wheel wire off flush with the top of the tiller arm.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

top of the tiller arm to allow the tail wheel bracket to mount properly.

✦✦

✦ The top of the tail wheel wire must be flush with the

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Place the tail wheel bracket onto the bottom of the fuselage. To

align the bracket, the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line and the bracket should be centered over the middle of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the bracket in place and use

a pencil to mark the locations of the three mounting screws onto the fuselage.

❑ Drill three 1/16" diameter pilot holes through the fuselage at the marks you drew, then secure the tail wheel bracket to the

fuselage, using three M3 x 8mm wood screws.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE METAL STEERING PIN

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and vertical stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered.

❑ Rotate the tiller arm so that it is centered over the bottom edge of the

rudder.

❑ Use a pencil to draw a mark on the bottom edge of the rudder,

directly below the middle of the slot in the tiller arm.

❑ Rotate the tiller arm out of the way. Using a drill with a 5/64" diameter

drill bit, drill a 3/4" deep hole into the bottom edge of the rudder at the mark you drew, making sure that the hole is centered and that you drill it straight down 90º to the tiller arm.

❑ Squeeze a small quantity of thick C/A down into the hole. Rotate the

tiller arm back into place and push the metal pin through the slot in the tiller arm and into the hole in the rudder. Adjust the depth of the pin so that there is 1/4" sticking above the tiller arm.

Any C/A that squeezes out of the hole can be removed promptly

☞

using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of C/A debonder.

❑ After the C/A has cured, loosen the grub screw in the side of the tiller arm. With the rudder still centered, rotate the tail wheel wire

until it is centered with the rudder. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the grub screw firmly to lock the tiller arm and the tail wheel wire into alignment.

SECTION 9: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Prebent Landing Gear Struts ❑ (2) Molded Landing Gear Fairings ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (8) Landing Gear Straps

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ #1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ .050 Hex Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR STRUTS

❑ Working with one landing gear strut for now, insert the 90º bends in

the landing gear strut into the predrilled hole in each of the two landing gear mounting slots in one half of the wing.

❑ Push the landing gear strut wires firmly down into the slots.

❑ (2) Wheel Collars w/Grub Screws ❑ (8) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws ❑ (16) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape

The top of the strut wires should be nearly flush with the bottom

☞

surface of the wing.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

mounting slot to allow clearance for the landing gear strut wire.

❑ Position four landing gear straps over the two landing gear strut

wires, as shown. The two inner landing gear straps should be located near the end of the landing gear strut wires and the two outer landing gear straps should be located 1" in from the end of the landing gear strut wires. This will ensure that the outer landing gear straps won't

interfere with the installation of the landing gear fairing.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

over the landing gear strut wires when you mark the positions of the mounting screw holes in the next procedure.

❑ While holding the landing gear straps in place, use a pencil to mark the locations of the mounting screws onto the wing.

✦✦

✦ You will need to cut a notch at the front of the rear

✦✦

✦ Make sure that the landing gear straps are centered

✦✦

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second landing gear strut into the other half of the wing.

❑ Remove the landing gear straps and drill four 1/16" diameter pilot

holes into the wing, being careful not to drill through the top of the wing.

❑ Install the landing gear straps, using eight M3 x 12mm wood screws.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR FAIRINGS AND WHEELS

❑ Temporarily slide one wheel onto one axle and use a wheel collar

with grub screw to hold it in place.

The wheel should be able to spin freely, but not move side to side.

☞

❑ Using a rotary tool with a cutting disc, carefully cut off the excess

axle flush with the wheel collar.

❑ Remove the wheel collar and wheel, then slide the landing gear

fairing into place over the landing gear strut.

To get the fairing to slide down into position you will need to first

☞

slide it over the landing gear strut sideways, then pivot it 90º as you push it down over the strut.

❑ Carefully reinstall the wheel and wheel collar. Since the landing gear

fairing is loose, you can pull it to the side to make it easier to slide the wheel and wheel collar down onto the axle.

❑ Center the opening in the landing gear strut fairing around the wheel.

When satisfied with the alignment, use pieces of masking tape to hold the base of the landing gear strut fairing firmly against the surface of the wing.

❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill four pilot holes through

the base of the landing gear strut fairing and into the hardwood landing gear mounting blocks. Locate two holes on each side of the fairing and make sure that the holes line up with the hardwood landing gear mounting blocks.

The inside edge of the landing gear strut fairing should not interfere with the two landing gear straps, but if it does simply trim

☞

the area around the landing gear straps to fit with a pair of scissors.

❑ Secure the landing gear strut fairing to the wing using four M2 x 8mm wood screws.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wheel, wheel collar and landing gear strut fairing onto the other landing

gear strut.

SECTION 10: ENGINE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M4 x 18mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M4 Flat Washers

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ 2.5mm & 3mm Hex Wrenches ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS

❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (4) M3 Split Washers ❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Backplate & Screws

❑ 5/64" & 1/8" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

engine, the installation procedures are the same. The Magnum XL .28ARNV engine is shown.

Keep in mind that the engine is mounted on its side. The adjustable engine mounting beams will fit most .28 - .46 size two-stroke engines and most .52 size four-stroke engines.

❑ Remove the muffler assembly from your engine, then install the spinner backplate onto the crankshaft, using the propeller

washer and nut included with your engine.

✦✦

✦ The following procedures outline the installation of a two-stroke engine. If you are installing a four-stroke

✦✦

❑ Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your engine's

mounting lugs, using a couple of drops of thick C/A.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

engine mounting beams should be toward the top of your engine.

The location of the engine is not important at this time. It's more

☞

important that the beams are square to your engine's mounting lugs.

❑ Carefully center the engine mounting beams over the mounting

holes in the firewall and install and tighten the four M4 x 18mm socket-cap screws and four M4 flat washers to secure the engine mounting beams into place.

✦✦

✦ The taller portion of the mounting flanges on the

✦✦

STEP 2: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE ENGINE

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the firewall. The distance from the firewall to the back of the spinner backplate should be 4-3/16". This measurement is the same whether you're installing a two-stroke or four-stroke engine. This measurement will allow a 1/16" wide gap between the front of the cowling and the spinner backplate, and allow the cowling to overlap the fuselage 3/8".

✦✦

✦ So that the cowling will line up properly when it's installed later, the engine must be spaced out correctly from

✦✦

❑ After tightening the socket-cap screws, remove the engine from the

engine mounting beams.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ With the fuselage on its side, set the engine onto the engine

mounting beams.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance from the firewall to the back of

the spinner backplate. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is 4-3/16".

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

in front of the firewall, so that the cowling will line up properly when it's installed later.

❑ Using a pencil, carefully mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Remove the engine and drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through the

engine mounting beams at the marks you drew.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

and not at an angle.

❑ Carefully enlarge the 5/64" diameter pilot holes, using a 1/8"

diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the engine using four M3 x 25mm socket-cap screws, four M3

flat washers, four M3 split washers and four M3 hex nuts.

Tighten the screws and nuts firmly to hold the engine securely

☞

into place.

✦✦

✦ The back of the spinner backplate must be 4-3/16"

✦✦

✦ Be careful that you drill the holes straight down

✦✦

SECTION 11: THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 20" Plain Wire w/Z-Bend

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward

the bottom of the servo.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the bottom of the engine mounting beams.

✦✦

✦ The flat washers and split washers are mounted on

✦✦

❑ (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16", 5/64" and 1/8" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Install the throttle servo into the plywood servo tray, making sure to

drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD WIRE

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the fuselage, as shown.

You should mount the throttle servo on the same side of the servo

☞

tray that your engine's throttle arm is on. Make sure to mount the servo right up against the edge of the servo tray.

❑ Using a 1/8" diameter drill bit, drill a hole into the firewall and through

the firewall bulkhead for the throttle pushrod wire. The hole should be located so that it lines up as closely as possible with your engine's throttle arm, but far enough out from the center of the firewall so that the pushrod won't interfere with the fuel tank when it's installed later. For our Magnum XL .25ARNV engine installation, we located the throttle pushrod hole 1/2" in from the side of the firewall and 11/16" up from the bottom of the firewall.

We recommend removing your engine to drill the hole. It's much

☞

easier to do with the engine removed.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward the back

✦✦

❑ Using a 1/8" diameter drill bit, drill a hole through the forward

bulkhead for the throttle pushrod wire. The hole should be positioned so that it lines up closely with the other two holes you drilled.

We suggest elongating the hole slightly to help prevent the pushrod

☞

wire from binding when it's installed.

❑ Reinstall your engine onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the throttle arm.

You may need to enlarge the hole in your engine's throttle arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit, to accommodate the wire.

☞

❑ Slide the plain end of the throttle pushrod through the holes you

drilled, then reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to make a bend in the pushrod wire so that it lines up better with your engine's throttle arm. You should also double-check that the bend will not interfere with your engine's muffler when it's installed later.

❑ Open and close the carburetor several times to ensure that the

pushrod does not bind and that the carburetor opens and closes completely.

✦✦

✦ So that the pushrod wire doesn't bind, you will need

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ADJUSTABLE PUSHROD CONNECTOR

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of

the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the adjustable pushrod connector onto the servo arm, using

two flat washers (one on top of the servo arm and one on the bottom) and the hex nut provided.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut off the excess servo arm beyond the

adjustable pushrod connector.

This will prevent the servo arm from hitting the side of the fuselage.

☞

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the throttle servo into the receiver. Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft

is rotating in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick is moved forward, from the idle to the full throttle position, the servo output shaft should rotate in the correct direction to open your engine's carburetor. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. In our case, for the Magnum XL .25ARNV the servo output shaft should rotate clockwise to open the carburetor.

❑ Position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter to their lowest positions.

❑ Slide the adjustable pushrod connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

❑ After making sure that the carburetor is in the fully closed position,

angle the servo horn about 45º back from center and attach it to the servo output shaft. The adjustable pushrod connector should be toward the side of the fuselage, as shown.

❑ While holding the carburetor fully closed, install and tighten the

machine screw in the top of the adjustable pushrod connector.

❑ Use wire cutters to cut away and remove the excess pushrod wire, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to

hold the servo horn securely to the servo.

❑ Operate the throttle several times to ensure that the pushrod wire does not bind and that the carburetor opens and closes

completely. You may need to adjust your transmitter EPA settings to achieve perfect settings.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage as it rotates forward and back.

✦✦

✦ The end of the servo arm will be very close to the side of the fuselage, but it should not touch the side of

✦✦

SECTION 12: FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 280cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Nylon Fuel Tank Cap ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Nylon Stopper Backplate ❑ (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors

STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER

❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) Nylon Straight Fuel Pick-Up Tube ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Vent Tubes ❑ (1) M3 x 22mm Self-Tapping Screw

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

using two of the holes, so don't uncover the third hole. Two nylon 90º vent tubes are included. We will only be using one for this assembly. The other can be saved or discarded.

❑ Using a ruler and a modeling knife, measure and cut the silicone fuel tubing to 3-3/4" long. Attach one end of the silicone fuel

tubing to the weighted fuel pick-up.

✦✦

✦ There are three holes in the rubber stopper, but one hole is covered at the front of the stopper. We will only be

✦✦

❑ Push the straight fuel pick-up tube through one hole in the rubber

stopper until 1/2" of the tube sticks out from the front of the stopper. Slide the nylon backplate over the tube at the back of the stopper.

❑ Push the nylon 90º vent tube into the nylon backplate and through

the stopper until the end of the tube sticks out 1/2" in front of the stopper.

❑ Slide the nylon fuel tank cap over the two tubes at the front of the

stopper. Push the M3 x 22 self-tapping screw into the center hole in the cap, through the rubber stopper and into the backplate. Begin tightening the screw, but do not tighten it completely yet.

❑ Attach the silicone fuel tubing, with the weighted pick-up attached,

onto the back of the nylon fuel pick-up tube.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBLY

❑ Carefully push the stopper assembly into the molded hole in the front of the fuel tank and rotate the stopper assembly until the

vent tube rests just below the top of the fuel tank. The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the fuel tank opening.

PRO TIP

inside of the tank, making it easy to see the tubing inside.

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold the fuel tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the

❑ Position the nylon vent tube, as shown. It should be 90º up in

relation to the fuel pick-up tube.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the self-tapping screw until

the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank opening.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

strip the threads in the nylon backplate or split the front of the tank.

❑ With the stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that

the fuel pick-up can move freely inside the fuel tank. Ideally, the fuel pick-up should be about 1/4" in front of the back of the fuel tank.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK

❑ Cut two pieces of silicone fuel tubing (not included) to a length of 8" and install them to the nylon tubes at the front of the fuel tank.

PRO TIP

them to the engine later on.

❑ Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making sure that

the stopper assembly lines up with, and is firmly pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ To align the fuel tank properly, the fuel tank should be pushed forward as far as possible and the back of the fuel tank should rest

in the cutout in the firewall bulkhead and the forward bulkhead.

Mark the ends of the silicone tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to connect

✦✦

✦ When you slide the fuel tank into position, make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of the fuselage.

✦✦

❑ Use your favorite method to secure the fuel tank into position. The

easiest way is simply to apply a bead of silicon sealant between the fuel tank and the forward bulkhead. Wedging foam rubber between the fuel tank and forward bulkhead will also work well.

✦✦

✦ Don't overtighten the self-tapping screw or you might

✦✦

Make sure that the fuel tank is held firmly in place. The last thing

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you want is for it to come loose during flight. It's important that it can't slide backward during flight. You may want to glue a scrap piece of balsa between the fuselage sides directly behind the fuel tank, to keep the fuel tank from sliding backwards.

SECTION 13: ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Split Pushrod Assembly ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Magnum Z-Bend Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Machine Screws

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward

the bottom of the servo.

❑ Install the elevator servo into the plywood servo tray, making sure to

drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the fuselage, as shown.

Make sure to mount the elevator servo right up against the edge of

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the servo tray.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

❑ Carefully slide the elevator pushrod assembly into the fuselage and guide the two threaded pushrod wires out through the

pushrod exit slots.

The elevator pushrod exit slots are the two closest to the stabilizer. The two lower pushrod exit slots are for the rudder pull-pull cables.

☞

❑ In some cases, after being installed, the pushrod assembly might

bind when moved back and forth. If this occurs, make a shallow bend outward in each pushrod wire, 1-1/2" ahead of the end of the pushrod wires. This bend will allow the pushrod wires to line up better with the control horns and allow smooth, non-binding operation.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward the back

✦✦

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through the elevator half for the control horn

mounting screws.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 12mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to align and install the second control horn assembly onto the other elevator half.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of one elevator half.

When aligned properly, the inside edge of the control horn should be flush with the inside edge of the elevator half and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be angled slightly toward the fuselage side, too, so that it lines up better with the pushrod wire.

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STEP 3: CONNECTING THE PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

❑ Carefully thread one nylon clevis onto each threaded pushrod wire.

For security, thread the clevises on completely.

❑ Snap each clevis into the outermost hole in the control horns.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

check that the pushrod assembly is not binding. You may need to make and/or adjust the bend in the pushrod wires where they exit the fuselage sides.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point"

servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of

the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut off the excess servo arm beyond the hole that you just enlarged.

This will prevent the servo arm from interfering with the rudder servo and pull-pull cable when they're installed later.

☞

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the elevator servo into the receiver.

✦✦

✦ Move the elevator halves up and down to double-

✦✦

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator and the stabilizer, to hold the elevator centered.

❑ Center the elevator servo by double-checking that the elevator trim

lever on your transmitter is centered, then attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure that it points toward the middle of the fuselage.

❑ With both elevator halves and the servo horn centered, draw a mark

on the elevator pushrod wire where it crosses the hole that you enlarged in the servo arm.

❑ Remove the pushrod assembly from the fuselage and make a

Z-Bend in the pushrod wire, at the mark you drew.

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❑ Attach the servo horn to the Z-Bend, then reinstall the pushrod

assembly and attach the servo horn to the servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered.

❑ With both elevator halves still centered, reinstall the clevises and install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided

with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the elevator halves and double-check that both the servo horn and the elevator halves are

still centered. If the elevator halves are not centered, adjust the clevises until they are. Move the elevator up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly in both directions.

SECTION 14: RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Stranded Steel Pull-Pull Cable ❑ (2) Plywood Blocks ❑ (1) M4 x 50mm Threaded Rod ❑ (2) Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ❑ (4) Threaded Couplers

❑ (4) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) Crimp Collets ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers ❑ (2) M4 Hex Nuts

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16", 5/64" & 9/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Using thick C/A, carefully glue the two plywood blocks to the top of

the servo tray, centered between the throttle and elevator servos.

These blocks will raise the rudder servo higher to prevent the pull-pull

☞

cables from interfering with the elevator pushrod assembly.

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your rudder servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward

the bottom of the servo.

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❑ Install the rudder servo onto the plywood blocks, making sure to drill

1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the fuselage, as shown.

The rudder servo should be centered between the throttle and

☞

elevator servos, but make sure that the end of the elevator servo arm will not hit the side of the rudder servo.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE CONTROL ROD

❑ Using a 9/64" diameter drill bit, drill a hole through the rudder, 3/4"

up from the bottom of the rudder and 3/8" behind the rudder hinge line.

PRO TIP

to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

Before installing the control rod in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the hole and allow the C/A

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward the front

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to keep them from loosening during flight.

✦✦

✦ With the threaded rod centered and the hex nuts tightened, apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the hex nuts

✦✦

❑ Slide the M4 x 50 threaded rod through the hole, then slide one M4

flat washer over each end of the threaded rod and push them against the sides of the rudder.

❑ Install and tighten one M4 hex nut onto each end of the threaded

rod, making sure to keep the threaded rod centered.

❑ After the C/A has fully cured, thread one nylon adjustable control

horn onto each end of the threaded rod. When positioned properly, the ends of the control horns should be flush with the ends of the threaded rod.

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STEP 3: INSTALLING THE PULL-PULL CABLES

❑ Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully cut the stranded steel cable exactly in half. If the ends of the cable begin to unravel, use

your fingers to twist the ends back into shape. Make sure to use the steel cable, not the stretchy rigging cable.

❑ Working with one length of cable for now, slide one flanged crimp

collet, non-flanged side first, over one end of the cable.

❑ While holding the collet in place so it doesn't slide off, carefully thread

the same end of the cable through the hole in one threaded coupler.

❑ Loop the cable around the coupler and slide the end of it back through

the crimp collet.

❑ Loop the end of the cable back around through the crimp collet, then

firmly squeeze the crimp collet, using a pair of pliers, to lock the cable into place.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

between the crimp collet and the cable, making the joint even stronger. Do not omit this procedure.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install a threaded coupler onto one end of the second length of cable.

✦✦

✦ For an extra measure of security, apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collet. The C/A will "wick"

✦✦

❑ Carefully thread one nylon clevis onto each of the two threaded

couplers. Use a pair of pliers to keep the couplers from turning.

❑ Feed the plain end of each of the two lengths of cable through the

exit hole in each side of the fuselage and into the servo compartment, then snap each clevis into the adjustable control horns.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away two arms from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in each arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the

servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the rudder servo into the receiver. Center the servo by double-checking that the rudder

trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Attach the servo horn to the rudder servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered.

The two threaded couplers should be toward the back of the fuselage.

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✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

sure that the cables are not twisted around each other or twisted or wrapped around the elevator pushrod assembly.

✦✦

✦ Before attaching the pull-pull cables to the threaded couplers in the next few procedures, it's important to make

✦✦

❑ Thread one clevis onto each of the remaining two threaded couplers,

then snap the clevises into the hole in the servo arms that you enlarged.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Carefully attach the length of cable from the left side of the fuselage

to the threaded coupler on the left side of the servo arm, then attach the length of cable from the right side of the fuselage to the threaded coupler on the right side of the servo arm, using the same techniques that you used previously. Make sure that both lengths of cable are pulled tight. There should not be any slack in the cables.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw, provided with your

servo, to secure the servo horn into place, then use wire cutters to cut away the excess lengths of cable.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

omit this procedure.

❑ Remove the pieces of masking tape from the rudder. With your radio system turned on, double-check to ensure that the rudder

servo horn and the rudder are still centered. If the rudder is not centered, adjust the clevises until it is.

❑ Check the tension of the pull-pull cables. To do this do the following: move the rudder control stick completely to the right. The

rudder should deflect to the right. Let go of the control stick and check to see if the rudder returns to center. Do this a couple of times in each direction. If the rudder does not return to center, one or both pull-pull cables are too tight. You can adjust the tension of the cables by adjusting the clevises. Ideally, the cables should be as tight as possible, while still allowing the rudder to return to center. The cables should not have slack in them, yet they should not be so tight that the linkage and/or the servo bind.

✦✦

✦ Remember, for an extra measure of security, apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets. Do not

✦✦

SECTION 15: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 3-1/4" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Backplates

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE PUSHRODS

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of

the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

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❑ Connect your radio system and plug one aileron servo into the receiver. Center the servo by double-checking that the aileron

trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Install the Z-Bend in one pushrod wire into the hole in the servo arm

that you enlarged.

❑ Install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's centered

and points toward the wing tip.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to

the servo.

❑ Repeat the previous procedure to install the servo horn and pushrod wire onto the second aileron servo.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS AND CLEVISES

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of one aileron. When

aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be directly behind the aileron pushrod wire (approximately 3-5/8" out from the inboard edge of the aileron) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark the locations of the two

mounting holes, then drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through the aileron for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using two M2 x 25mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ Use a piece of masking tape, taped between the aileron and the wing, to hold the aileron centered.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap the clevis

into the outermost hole in the control horn.

Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it from turning

☞

or twisting when installing the clevis.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the aileron and double-check that the servo horn and the aileron are still centered. If the aileron

is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the aileron up and down several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly in both directions.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the control horn and clevis onto the other aileron .

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

to be plugged into the aileron channel in your receiver.

✦✦

✦ You will need to plug a Y-Harness into the two aileron servo leads at this time. This will allow both aileron servos

✦✦

SECTION 16: COWLING INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Molded Cowling ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Backplate & Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

STEP 1: ALIGNING THE COWLING

❑ Remove the high speed needle valve assembly and muffler from your engine and set them aside.

❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws

❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

suggest covering your engine's exhaust port, carburetor opening and needle valve inlet with small pieces of paper towel.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

front of the cowling and an air-exit hole in the bottom of the cowling. This is not necessary if you're using your engine's standard muffler although a small air-exit hole wouldn't hurt.

❑ Temporarily slide the cowling over your engine and onto the fuselage, then secure the spinner backplate onto your engine's

crankshaft.

PRO TIP

✦✦

✦ To prevent dust and debris from entering your engine during the fitting and aligning of the cowling, we strongly

✦✦

❑ Using a rotary tool with a cutting disc and a sanding drum, carefully

cut out the side of the cowling to clear your engine's cylinder head and carburetor. Remove small amounts of material at a time and test the fit often so you don't remove more material than necessary.

✦✦

✦ If you are using a Pitt's style muffler on your engine, we suggest cutting out a small air-intake hole in the

✦✦

Temporarily removing your engine's cylinder head will make it easier to install and line up the cowling.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use pieces of masking tape to hold the cowling securely in place and aligned.

❑ Line up the front of the cowling, using the spinner backplate as your

guide. When aligned properly, the cowl ring should be centered with the spinner backplate and there should be about a 1/16" wide gap between the front of the cowling and the back of the spinner backplate. The edges of the black anti-glare shield on the cowling should also line up closely with the edges of the black anti-glare shield on the fuselage.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: MOUNTING THE COWLING

❑ With the cowling held firmly in alignment, drill 5/64" diameter pilot

holes into the cowling and through the fuselage for the four wood screws. Position the holes 3/16" in front of the back edge of the cowling. One hole should be centered on each side of the cowling and one hole should be centered on the top and the bottom of the cowling.

❑ Remove the cowling and install the muffler onto your engine. If you're using your engine's stock muffler, it may be necessary to

use a muffler extension to clear the bottom of the firewall.

❑ Mark and cut out the area of the cowling necessary to clear your

engine's muffler. Again, remove small amounts of material at a time and test the fit often so you don't remove more material than necessary.

❑ To strengthen the holes in the fuselage that the wood screws will thread into, carefully apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into

the holes and let it dry completely before installing the cowling.

❑ Connect the fuel lines from the fuel tank to your engine's carburetor

and muffler.

❑ Slide the cowling into position and realign it. Install and tighten the

four M3 x 10mm flange-head wood screws to hold the cowling firmly in place. Install your high speed needle valve, propeller and the spinner to finish off the assembly.

The 10 x 6 composite propeller included can be used with .40 - .46

☞

size two-stroke engines.

SECTION 17: WING STRUTS INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Wing Struts ❑ (4) Molded Wing Strut Fairings

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ (8) M2 x 8mm Wood Screws ❑ (1) Rigging Cable

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WING STRUTS

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the four molded plastic

wing strut fairings along the molded scribe lines.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut out the molded slot in the middle

of each wing strut fairing.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the edges

of the wing strut fairings smooth.

❑ Working with one wing strut for now, slide one yellow (lower) wing

strut fairing over the bottom of the wing strut and one silver (upper) wing strut fairing over the top of the wing strut.

Orientate the wing strut fairings so that when the wing strut is

☞

installed, the fairings will fit flush against the fuselage and wing.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

than the bottom of the wing strut. The wing strut will fit correctly in only one direction.

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage and mount the wing strut to the predrilled holes in the fuselage and wing, using two M2 x 8mm

wood screws.

❑ Slide the wing strut fairings up against the fuselage and wing to check

the fit. There should be few or no gaps between the wing strut fairings and the fuselage and wing.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, glue the wing strut fairings to only the

fuselage and wing, using a thin layer of Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the wing strut fairings in place until the glue completely cures.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ After the glue completely cures, remove the masking tape and use the tip of your modeling knife to carefully "drill" an access hole

through the upper wing strut fairing, directly over the wood screw. This will allow you to remove the wood screw, so that you can take off the wing.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wing strut and wing strut fairings.

✦✦

✦ The top of the wing strut is bent at a steeper angle

✦✦

✦ Don't glue the wing strut fairings to the wing strut.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage. As you remove the wing, carefully guide the wing struts out of the wing strut fairings. The wing struts will be left secured to the wing for convenience.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RIGGING CABLES

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut the length of rigging cable exactly in half.

❑ Working on one side of the wing for now, partially thread one M2 x 8mm wood screw into each of the two predrilled holes in the

top outer half of the wing.

✦✦

✦ When you want to remove the wing from the fuselage, remove the two wood screws that hold the wing struts to

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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❑ One length of rigging cable is used for each side of the wing. Use the photo below to follow the attachment sequence:

A) Secure one end of the rigging cable to the rear screw on the wing. Loop the rigging cable under the screw's head and tighten the screw. Use a modeling knife to cut off the excess rigging cable.

B) Loosen the upper wing strut mounting screw, pull the rigging cable taut and loop it behind the screw's head, then retighten the screw.

C) Pull the rigging cable taut again and secure it to the forward screw on the wing. Loop the rigging cable under the screw's head and tighten the screw. Use a modeling knife to cut off the excess rigging cable.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second length of rigging cable to the other half of the wing.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage. The rigging cable will now come loose. When you install the wing, simply loop the center of the rigging cable around the screw before tightening it. There is no need to remove the rigging cable from the wing.

✦✦

✦ When you want to remove the wing from the fuselage, remove the two wood screws that hold the wing struts to

✦✦

SECTION 18: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Molded Windscreens ❑ (1) Molded Fuselage Fairing

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE FAIRING

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, lightly sand the bottom of the fuselage fairing smooth and straight.

❑ (1) Black Striping Tape ❑ (1) Decal Set

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ When satisfied with the fit, glue the fuselage fairing to the fuselage, using a thin bead of Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove any

excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the fuselage fairing in place until the glue completely cures.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE WINDSCREENS

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out each of the two clear windscreens along the molded scribe lines, then use 220 grit

sandpaper to lightly sand the edges of both windscreens smooth.

❑ Test-fit the fuselage fairing onto the fuselage. When aligned

properly, the front of the fuselage fairing should be up against the back edge of the rear cockpit insert and, when viewed from the front, the fuselage fairing should be centered on the fuselage. There should also be few or no gaps between the fuselage fairing and the fuselage.

You may need to use 220 grit sandpaper to adjust the contour of

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the fuselage fairing to achieve a perfect fit.

Continued On Next Page

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☛☛

❑ Carefully apply the black striping tape to the outside surface of both

windscreens to simulate the windscreen frames.

❑ Test-fit and glue the two windscreens to the fuselage, using a thin

bead of Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Remove any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the windscreens in place until the glue completely cures.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE RECEIVER, BATTERY PACK AND SWITCH

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ We don't suggest permanently installing the receiver and battery pack until you have balanced the airplane.

✦✦

How the airplane initially balances will determine where you need to mount the receiver and battery pack.

❑ Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold the

foam rubber in place. Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.

❑ After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery pack, mount them into the fuselage, using your favorite method.

Strips of Velcro

work well or sandwich them in place using a couple of scraps of balsa wood glued between the fuselage sides.

❑ After installing the receiver, drill a 5/64" diameter hole through the bottom of the fuselage directly behind the wing saddle for the

receiver antenna to exit. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully make an antenna mount out of an

extra servo horn. Remove one of the servo arms and cut it into the shape shown.

❑ Use the modified servo arm and a rubber band to secure the end of

the antenna to the tail wheel wire.

❑ Mount the switch to the fuselage side (opposite the muffler) and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch and servo

leads to the receiver. As an alternative, the switch could also be mounted inside one of the cockpit inserts so it's hidden.

STEP 4: APPLYING THE DECALS

❑ Using a clean cloth, wipe the airframe down completely to remove any dust, debris and oil. We suggest using rubbing alcohol to

wipe the airframe down in the areas where the decals will be applied.

❑ Cut out each of the decals and apply them using the box cover photos for reference.

SECTION 19: BALANCING THE RYAN STA ARF

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench

❑ Ruler ❑ Masking Tape

✦✦

✦

✦✦

IMPORTANT

and crash!

✦✦

✦

✦✦

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control

Center of Gravity Location:

2-1/2 to 3" (64mm-76mm) back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

WARNING

(2-3/4" (70mm)), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C/G be located any farther back than 3" (76mm).

Balance the Ryan STA ARF with the fuel tank empty.

☞

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage and attach the wing struts and rigging cables. Apply two short pieces of masking tape onto the

top of the wing, 2-3/4" (70mm) back from the leading edge, measured at the fuselage sides.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down, place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane

falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C/G location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or aft within

☞

the C/G range to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

This is the recommended C/G range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C/G in the middle of the range

DO NOT FLY THE AIRPLANE BEYOND THE RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE OR AN

UNCONTROLLABLE CRASH COULD RESULT!

SECTION 20: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend initially setting up the Ryan STA ARF using the Test-Flying control throws. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control. Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the sport-flying settings. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do aerobatics with ease.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 3/8" (10mm) Up and Down

Elevator: 5/8" (16mm) Up and Down

Rudder: 3/4" (19mm) Right and Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦ ✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

piece of silicone fuel tubing over each clevis to prevent them from opening during flight.

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

unless you are a proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.

✦✦

✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦ After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest installing a short

✦✦

✦ We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended sport-flying settings

✦✦

Ailerons: 1/2" (13mm) Up and Down

Elevator: 7/8" (22mm) Up and Down

Rudder: 1-1/8" (29mm) Right and Left

SPORT-FLYING

SECTION 21: PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY

●

Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

●

Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This should

include all of the control surface hinges as well.

●

Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.

●

Double-check that the receiver and battery pack are properly secured into the fuselage. There's nothing worse than the

battery pack coming loose during a violent aerobatic maneuver.

●

Double-check that the fuel tank is properly secured into the fuselage.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank EMPTY.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Make sure that you've installed 1/4" long pieces of silicone tubing over the clevises to prevent any chance of them coming

open during flight.

●

If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your first

few flights.

●

Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. Do not cut the receiver antenna

shorter or the range of your radio control system will be greatly reduced.

●

Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead to engine

and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power.

SECTION 22: REPLACEMENT PARTS

We stock a complete line of replacement parts for your Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer.

If your dealer does not stock Sportsman Aviation or Global products, you can order replacement parts

directly from us, using the Customer Service Information on page # 3.

Ryan STA ARF - Complete ............................................127598

Instruction Manual ......................................................... 180030

Fuselage Set .................................................................. 180031

Wing Set ........................................................................ 180032

Stabilizer Set .................................................................. 180033

Fiberglass Cowling ........................................................ 180034

Molded Cockpit, Headrest and Windscreens ................180035

Wing Strut Set with Cord ............................................... 180036

Molded Landing Gear Fairings ...................................... 180037

Fuel Tank Assembly .......................................................180038

Tail Wheel Assembly ...................................................... 180039

Hardware Set ................................................................. 180040

Engine Mount Set (Adjustable)...................................... 180041

Landing Gear Set .......................................................... 180042

Decal Set ....................................................................... 180043

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF # 127598

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

6) Were any of the kit parts:

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❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?

❑ Better ❑ As Good

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?

❑ Yes ❑ No

What is Your Age Group:

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Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ______________________

_____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________

The Sportsman Aviation Ryan STA ARF is distributed exclusively by

Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708

_____________________________ _____________________________ _____________________________

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Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610

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Global Hobby Ryan STA Assembly Instruction Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual