Global Hobby RCM Trainer 40 Instructions For Final Assembly

(Flight Training Course book not included in kit)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

T o make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. We also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below . They will also be able to help you locate a flying field in your area.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

The RCM Trainer 40 ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92728

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction ............................................................3

Our Recommendations ...........................................4

Kit Contents............................................................7

Metric Conversion Chart ........................................8

Full Size Hardware Drawings ................................9

Additional Items Required ...................................10

Safety Warning .....................................................10

A Note About Covering .......................................11

Wing Assembly ....................................................11

Joining the Wing Halves................................ 11

Wing Installation ..................................................12

Installing the Wing Bolts ...............................12

Horizontal Stabilizer.............................................12

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer ...............12

Vertical Stabilizer .................................................13

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer....................13

Elevator Pushrod ..................................................20

Installing the Control Horn ............................20

Installing the Pushrod Wire ...........................20

Adjusting the Elevator Pushrod .....................21

Rudder Pushrod ....................................................22

Installing the Control Horn ............................22

Installing the Pushrod Wire ...........................22

Adjusting the Rudder Pushrod.......................23

Aileron Pushrods ..................................................24

Installing the Aileron Pushrods .....................24

Adjusting the Aileron Pushrods.....................25

Final Assembly.....................................................25

Installing the Fuel Lines ................................25

Installing the Spinner .....................................25

Installing the Switch ......................................26

Installing the Battery and Receiver................26

Main Gear Installation..........................................13

Installing the Main Gear Wires......................13

Installing the Main Gear Wheels ...................14

Nose Gear Installation ..........................................14

Installing the Nose Gear Strut........................14

Installing the Nose Gear Wheel .....................15

Fuel T ank..............................................................15

Installing the Stopper Assembly ....................15

Installing the Fuel Tank .................................16

Engine Installation................................................17

Mounting the Engine .....................................17

Installing the Throttle Pushrod ......................17

Servo Installation..................................................17

Installing the Fuselage Servos .......................17

Installing the Aileron Servo Tray ..................18

Installing the Aileron Servo...........................18

Applying the Decals.......................................27

Balancing ..............................................................27

Control Throws.....................................................28

Preflight Check.....................................................28

Safety ....................................................................28

Notes.....................................................................29

ABC's of Flying....................................................29

Basics of Flight.....................................................30

Glossary of T erms.................................................32

Product Evaluation Sheet .....................................35

Throttle Pushrod ...................................................19

Installing the Servo Connector ......................19

Adjusting the Throttle Linkage......................20

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for choosing Global's RCM Trainer 40 ARF and welcome to the exciting world of R/C modeling! Whether you have built and flown other R/C airplanes in the past or this is your first, you will appreciate the high quality, very easy assembly and excellent flight characteristics of the RCM Trainer 40 ARF.

The RCM Trainer 40 ARF was designed by expert modelers to be one of the very best trainer airplanes available today. It features a constant cord wing with a flat bottom airfoil for superior slow flight handling and forgiving flight characteristics. The long tail moment and large tail surfaces help the airplane fly very smooth and stable throughout the entire speed range. Tricycle landing gear makes take offs and landings a breeze, too. This combination makes the RCM Trainer 40 ARF the best flying trainer airplane at any flying field.

When you open up the box, you will notice there is little to do or to purchase to finish your new airplane. Unlike other trainer kits, the RCM Trainer 40 ARF is a complete kit. Wheels, fuel tank, pushrods, clevises and spinner are all included. The airframe is completely built and covered by master craftsmen, who take their time to ensure that every part is straight and properly glued. But what really sets the RCM Trainer 40 ARF apart from other ARF trainers in its price range is the amount of assembly that's done for you. The RCM Trainer 40 ARF does not require any glue to assemble. The wing bolts together, then bolts onto the fuselage. The horizontal and vertical stabilizers bolt on. All of the pilot holes for the screws and control horns are already drilled for you. Even the fuel tank stopper is assembled.

We hope you enjoy your new Global RCM Trainer 40 ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product survey in the back of this manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We would enjoy hearing any comments or suggestions you may have.

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new RCM Trainer 40 ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before going any further.

✔ Please read through each step before starting assembly. You should find the layout very complete and simple. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles you might expect.

✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help to keep you from losing your place.

✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the individual parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly , please contact us at the address below:

✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

✔ We have included a glossary of terms beginning on page # 32. Check it out if you come across a term that is unfamiliar to you.

✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure that you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

✔ If you come across this symbol that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

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, it means

Global Hobby Distributors Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

The following section describes our recommendations to help you decide which types of accessories to purchase for your new RCM Trainer 40 ARF. We have tested all of these items with the airplane and found that these will offer the best in performance, reliability and economy.

RADIO SYSTEM

The RCM Trainer 40 ARF requires a minimum 4 channel radio control system that includes four standard size servos. The radio system we recommend using is the Hitec Focus 4 FM radio from Hitec. This particular radio system includes the transmitter, receiver, four standard servos, rechargeable transmitter and receiver battery packs, a standard wall charger, switch, servo mounting hardware and a setup guide. It is priced right and can be used in other airplanes as you advance.

ENGINE

Focus 4 FM

The RCM Trainer 40 ARF requires a .40 to .46 size two stroke engine. The engine we recommend is the Magnum XL .40ARNV with remote needle valve. This engine is a perfect match to the RCM Trainer, both in power and in ease of installation. The holes that are predrilled in the motor mount are spaced to fit the Magnum engine perfectly. The rear mounted needle valve assembly makes tuning the engine easy and safe.

P/N 210740

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT

Most people getting into R/C worry most about buying the correct accessories for their airplane (radio, engine, etc.), and that is important. But a lot of people don't put as much effort into the field support equipment they choose. Field support equipment is a necessary and important part of flying R/C airplanes. Without it, how do you fuel your airplane, start the engine and do maintenance? Having the proper field support equipment is just as important as having the correct engine and radio system. Below we detail two types of field support setups. One is the bare minimum that will be required. The second setup will cost a little bit more, but if you're planning on staying in the hobby, it's the best way to go in the long run.

MINIMUM SETUP

Magnum Hand Crank Fuel Pump - This is a handoperated fuel pump that makes filling the fuel tank easy and hassle-free.

P/N 237365

P/N 237438

Sullivan Chicken Stick - Instead of using your fingers to flip the propeller and start your engine, you use this rubber stick. It prevents cuts and scratches to your fingers. This is a must-have item for hand-starting your engine.

Magnum Glow Starter - This cordless glow starter is used to heat up the engine's glow plug for starting. It includes a built-in meter that tells you your glow plug's status. A battery charger is included to charge the unit after use. You can start your airplane's engine right on the flight line with this one if you need to.

P/N 577292

Magnum 4-Way Wrench - Use this wrench for the engine prop nut and glow plug. It has four different sized sockets built into one wrench, so this is the only wrench you'll need on the flight line. It also includes threaded inserts to hold extra glow plugs.

P/N 237420

RECOMMENDED SETUP

Global Super Box RTU Field Box - This field box is already assembled, painted and Ready-T o-Use. It is ideal for carrying all of your field equipment and supplies, including a one gallon fuel bottle. It is built from plywood, so it will last for many years to come. (Note:

accessories shown with field box not included)

P/N 122500

Magnum Power Panel - This panel mounts directly to your flight box. It features a 12V starter outlet, 12V fuel pump outlet and a one touch glow ignitor outlet with meter.

P/N 237390

Continued on Next Page

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RECOMMENDED SETUP - CONTINUED

P/N 110171 & 110270

Magnum Locking Glow Connector - Used with your power panel, the locking glow connector is used to heat up the engine's glow plug for starting.

Global 12V Sealed Cell Battery and Charger - This battery is a 7Amp battery that is maintenance-free. It mounts in your flight box and provides power to your 12V accessories. The charger fully charges the battery in about 8-14 hours.

P/N 237440

P/N 361006

Magnum 12V Fuel Pump - This fuel pump is used with your power panel and mounts directly to your flight box. It quickly fuels or drains your fuel tank with the simple press of a button.

Magnum 12V Starter - This starter is used with your power panel. It uses a powerful DC motor to start engines in the .10 - .60 size range. It features a rubber starter cone insert that won't damage your airplane's spinner assembly .

P/N 237377

P/N 237420

KIT CONTENTS

W e have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo below represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as shown below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first, then the quantity of that particular part, along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through assembly, you will notice the same part number listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back to this section.

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

❑ {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

❑ {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY

WING ASSEMBLY

12 13 14 15 16

❑ {1} Plywood Servo Tray ❑ {4} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws ❑ {2} 4mm x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ {2} 4mm Flat Washers ❑ {2} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

❑ {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires

❑ {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels

❑ {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

❑ {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ {4} 4mm Wheel Collars

❑ {4} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

Note : Even though the fuel tank is preassembled, we show the parts here for your reference if you should need to disassemble the tank later for maintenance.

❑ {1} 320cc Fuel Tank

❑ {1} Stopper Assembly

❑ {1} Weighted Fuel Pickup

❑ {1} Silicon Fuel Tubing

❑ {1} 3mm x 19mm Machine Screw

Continued on Next Page

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NOSE GEAR ASSEMBLY PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Strut

❑ {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel

❑ {1} Nylon Steering Arm

❑ {2} 4mm Nylon Spacers

❑ {2} 4mm Wheel Collars

❑ {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

PUSHROD CONNECTOR ASSEMBLIES

❑ {2} 2mm x 90mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends

❑ {2} 2mm x 650mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends

❑ {1} 1.4mm x 440mm Plain Wire w/Z-Bend

❑ {1} 1.4mm x 415mm Plain Wire w/Z-Bend

MISCELLANEOUS PARTS

❑ {2} Nylon Control Horns

❑ {2} Nylon Backplates

❑ {4} 2mm x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ {4} Nylon Clevises

❑ {4} Nylon Snap Keepers

❑ {2} Adjustable Servo Connector Assemblies

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45

1” = 25.4mm 2” = 50.8mm 3” = 76.2mm 6” = 152.4mm

❑ {4} 3mm x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ {3} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws ❑ {8} 3mm Flat Washers ❑ {1} 3mm Nylon Insert Nut ❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Assembly ❑ {2} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws ❑ {1} Clear Tubing ❑ {1} Decal Set (not pictured)

21” = 533.4mm 24” = 609.6mm 30” = 762.0mm 36” = 914.4mm

12” = 304.8mm 18” = 457.2mm

FULL-SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

Listed below are full size drawings of the small hardware parts included with the RCM Trainer 40 ARF. Use these drawings to familiarize yourself with each part. Please refer back to this page to locate the proper parts when they are needed for a particular assembly step. These drawings are especially helpful when trying to identify the different size screws or nuts used in a particular step.

4mm x 25mm

Machine Screw

3mm x 12mm

Wood Screw

4mm Nylon

Spacer

3mm x 25mm

Socket-Cap Screw

2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screw

4mm Flat

Washer

3mm x 19mm

Machine Screw

2mm x 10mm

Machine Screw

4mm Wheel

Collar

3mm x 16mm

Machine Screw

3mm x 6mm

Machine Screw

Nylon Landing

Gear Strap

Nylon Clevis

Adjustable Servo

Connector Assembly

Nylon Snap

Keeper

Nylon Control

Horn Backplate

3mm Nylon

Insert Nut

3mm Flat

W asher

Nylon Control

Horn

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

❑ {1}Hitec Focus 4FM Radio w/4 Servos

❑ {1}Magnum XL .40ARNV # 210740

❑ {1}Dubro 1/4” Foam Rubber # 868638

❑ {1}Global Silicon Fuel Line # 115923

❑ {1}Windsor 10 x 6 Propeller # 245001

❑ {1}Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug # 115493

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16” Drill Bit

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ 12” Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench

❑ Pacer Thread Lock # 339162

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and your engine.

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the RCM Trainer is a heat shrink polyester material. Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat shrink material. To remove the wrinkles you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.

Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:

❑ 1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ 2) After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.

❑ 1) Looking at the root rib of each wing half, notice one wing half has two aluminum dihedral braces preglued into it, and the opposite wing half has two precut slots in it that the dihedral braces slide into. See photo # 1 below.

Photo # 1

❑ 2) Align the two dihedral braces with the two slots and gently push the two wing halves together.

See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

If any color smears from any of the seams, the

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temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. If any colors do smear you can remove the excess using a paper towel soaked with a small amount of Acetone.

WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

❑ {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

❑ {2} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

JOINING THE WING HALVES

The control surfaces on the RCM Trainer are

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hinged using "EZ" type hinges and glued in place using C/A adhesive. Because of this, the control surfaces may be stiff. T o loosen them, gently move each control surface five or ten times to free them up.

❑ 3) Push the two wing halves together until both root ribs are firmly pressed against each other. When properly joined there should be very few , or no gaps at all, in the center section joint.

The fit of the two dihedral braces in the precut

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slots is tight. This is normal. It helps make a very strong center section joint.

❑ 4) Locate the two 3mm x 16mm machine screws.

❑ 5) Turn the wing upside down on your work table. While holding the two wing halves together firmly, carefully thread the two machine screws into the two predrilled holes in the bottom of the wing.

Two threaded metal inserts have been prein-

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stalled into the wing's surface to thread the machine screws into.

❑ 6) Using a # 2 phillips screwdriver, carefully tighten the two machine screws until they are snug. Do not overtighten them. See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

The two aluminum dihedral braces installed

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in the wing are more than strong enough to withstand any loads that may be put on the wing during flight. It is not necessary to glue the two wing halves together.

WING INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

❑ {2} 4mm x 25mm Machine Screws

❑ {2} 4mm Flat Washers

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

INSTALLING THE WING BOLTS

❑ 4) Insert the two machine screws through the two predrilled holes in the top of the wing and thread them into the blind nuts preinstalled in the fuselage. Tighten the two screws securely using a # 2 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

To get the wing bolts to line up with the blind

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nuts in the fuselage, you may need to move the trailing edge of wing one way or the other, until the screws begin to thread into the blind nuts.

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

❑ {3} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws

❑ {3} 3mm Flat Washers

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ 1) Set the fuselage right side up on your work table and place the wing into the wing saddle. Align the plywood mounting tab in the leading edge of the wing with the precut slot in the fuselage's forward bulkhead.

❑ 2) Carefully slide the wing forward, making sure the plywood tab fully engages the slot in the forward bulkhead. See photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

❑ 3) Slide one 4mm flat washer onto each of the two 4mm x 25mm machine screws.

❑ 1) Slide one 3mm flat washer onto each of the three 3mm x 16mm machine screws.

❑ 2) Set the horizontal stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting platform. Align the three predrilled holes in the stabilizer with the three blind nuts in the platform.

❑ 3) Thread each of the three machine screws through the stabilizer and into the blind nuts. Using a # 2 phillips screwdriver, tighten each of the machine screws securely. See photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

❑ 4) Install the wing onto the fuselage and bolt it securely into place. Now check to ensure that the horizontal stabilizer is aligned with the wing. When viewed from the front, the horizontal stabilizer should be level with the wing. See figure # 1 below.

❑ 3) Turn the fuselage upside down. Slide one 3mm flat washer over the threaded wire, followed by one 3mm nylon insert nut. Tighten the nylon insert nut firmly, using needle nose pliers, to secure the vertical stabilizer into place. See photo # 8 below.

Figure # 1

If the stabilizer is not level with the wing, loosen

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A-1

A = A-1

the three machine screws and slide a thin shim under the low side of the stabilizer. Retighten the screws and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied that the alignment is correct.

VERTICAL STABILIZER

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

❑ {1} 3mm Flat Washer

❑ {1} 3mm Nylon Insert Nut

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ {1} Needle Nose Pliers

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ 1) Slide the vertical stabilizer mounting post down through the cutout in the horizontal stabilizer until the threaded wire in the bottom of the post exits the predrilled hole in the bottom of the fuselage.

Photo # 8

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires

❑ {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels

❑ {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

❑ {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ {4} 4mm Wheel Collars

❑ {4} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ 12” Straight Edge Ruler

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES

❑ 1) Turn the fuselage upside down. Insert the 90º bend in each main gear wire into the two predrilled holes in the landing gear mounting slot. See

photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

❑ 2) Push the stabilizer down firmly, making sure it is well seated on top of the horizontal stabilizer and between the two triangle stock reinforcements.

See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

❑ 2) The two landing gear wires are held in place using four nylon landing gear straps and eight wood screws. Eight pilot holes have been predrilled into the fuselage to install the straps and screws. Set each of the nylon straps into place, aligning the holes in the straps with the predrilled pilot holes.

❑ 3) Mount the four nylon landing gear straps into place using eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Use a # 2 phillips screwdriver to tighten the wood screws completely, securing the landing gear wires to the fuselage. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

❑ 6) Repeat steps # 4 and # 5 to install the second wheel assembly onto the opposite landing gear wire.

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Prebent Nose Gear Strut

❑ {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel

❑ {1} Nylon Steering Arm

❑ {2} 4mm Nylon Spacers

❑ {2} 4mm Wheel Collars

❑ {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

❑ {1} 1.4mm x 440mm Plain Wire w/Z-Bend

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR STRUT

❑ 4) Partially thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into each of the four wheel collars. Working with only one landing gear wire for now, slide one wheel collar onto the axle. Space the collar 7/8” in from the tip of the axle. While holding the collar in place, tighten the machine screw using a # 2 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

❑ 5) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel, recessed side first, onto the axle. Push it up against the wheel collar, then slide the second wheel collar onto the axle, and push it up against the wheel. Adjust the depth of the wheel collar until the wheel spins without binding, then tighten the machine screw using a # 2 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

❑ 1) Partially thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into one wheel collar.

❑ 2) Look carefully at the upper portion of the nose gear strut. You will notice that there are two flat spots ground into the wire. Slide the wheel collar down onto the strut, aligning it with the flat spot just above the coil. Hold the collar in place and tighten the machine screw firmly using a # 2 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

❑ 3) Partially thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into the front of the nylon steering arm. Insert the Z-bend in the steering pushrod wire into the outer hole in the nylon arm. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

When inserting the Z-bend into the steering arm,

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make sure the longer portion of the wire comes out on top of the steering arm. You can tell the top because the machine screw faces the front of the arm.

❑ 4) Carefully slide the plain end of the pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing preinstalled in the bottom of the firewall. Slide the pushrod in until the steering arm lines up with the top of the nose gear mounting bracket. See photo # 15 below.

❑ 7) Insert a # 2 phillips screwdriver through the predrilled access hole in the lower front portion of the fuselage. Tighten the machine screw in the steering arm firmly to hold the nose gear assembly securely in place. Rotate the nose gear back and forth a couple of times to make sure it doesn't bind.

The pushrod housing exits the firewall through

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an oversized slot. This is done to allow the pushrod to move slightly. This helps prevent binding when the steering arm rotates back and forth.

Photo # 15

❑ 5) Push the nose gear strut up through the mounting bracket and into the steering arm. Rotate the nose gear strut until the coil faces the back of the fuselage. See photo # 16 below.

Photo # 16

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL

❑ 8) Slide one nylon spacer, followed by the wheel, onto the nose gear axle. The flat portion of the wheel should face toward the nose gear strut.

❑ 9) Partially thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into one wheel collar. Slide one nylon spacer , followed by the wheel collar, onto the axle and up against the wheel. Adjust the depth of the wheel collar until the wheel spins without binding. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine screw in the wheel collar using a # 2 phillips screwdriver. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

❑ 6) Turn the steering arm so that the machine screw faces the front of the airplane. While keeping the steering arm in place, carefully rotate the nose gear strut about 45º to the left, until the flat spot lines up with the machine screw in the steering arm. See

photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

FUEL TANK

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Preassembled 320cc Fuel Tank

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ 12” Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Scissors

INSTALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBLY

The fuel tank comes preassembled; however, we

☛

have included assembly instructions for your reference. W e recommend reading through these steps to double check the tank setup and to familiarize yourself with how the fuel tank is assembled.

❑ 1) Secure one end of the silicon fuel line onto the end of the weighted fuel pickup.

❑ 2) Using a ruler, measure the distance that the two aluminum tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly . This distance should be 3/8”. If it is not, adjust the tubes by pushing them forward or backward until you are satisfied with the alignment.

See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

❑ 3) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the fuel pickup attached, onto the end of the aluminum fuel pickup tube. While holding the aluminum tube in place, adjust the length of the silicon tube until the fuel pickup is 4-3/8” back from the rear of the stopper assembly. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold

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the fuel tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the inside of the tank.

❑ 7) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly, tighten the machine screw using a # 2 phillips screwdriver until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank opening. Do not overtighten the screw. This could cause the front of the tank to split. See photo # 22 below .

Photo # 22

INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK

❑ 8) Slide the fuel tank into position, making sure the stopper assembly engages the predrilled hole in the firewall. When aligned properly , the tank should rest in the two plywood cradles.

❑ 4) Push the 3mm x 19mm machine screw through the center hole in the front of the stopper assembly and partially thread it into the metal stopper backplate. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

❑ 5) Carefully push the stopper assembly into the molded hole in the front of the fuel tank. Gently rotate the stopper assembly until the prebent aluminum vent tube rests inside the molded bubble in the top of the tank.

When installing the fuel tank, make sure the

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molded bubble in the top of the tank faces the top of the fuselage.

❑ 9) Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, measure and cut out a 2-1/2” x 6” piece of Dubro Foam Rubber. Fold the foam over itself once to double its thickness. With the fuel tank aligned, wedge the foam between the top of the fuel tank and the top of the fuselage. See figure # 2 below.

Figure # 2

❑ 10) Using a pair of scissors, cut a 12” long piece of silicon fuel tubing into two 6” long pieces.

❑ 11) Install one piece of fuel tubing onto the fuel pickup tube (lower) and one piece onto the vent tube (upper) at the front of the fuel tank.

ENGINE INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} 1.4mm x 415mm Plain Wire w/Z-Bend

❑ {4} 3mm x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws

❑ {4} 3mm Flat Washers

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench

MOUNTING THE ENGINE

❑ 1) Carefully install the carburetor onto your engine, following your engine's instruction sheet.

❑ 2) Set the engine in place on the hardwood motor mount beams, aligning the holes in the engine mounting lugs with the predrilled holes in the two hardwood beams.

❑ 3) Slide one 3mm flat washer over each of the four 3mm x 25mm socket-cap screws. Thread each socket-cap screw into the predrilled holes and tighten them firmly using a 2.5mm hex wrench.

See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

❑ 6) Remove the throttle arm from the engine. Install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the hole farthest out in the throttle arm. Reattach the throttle arm to the engine and tighten the throttle arm set screw securely. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

❑ 7) Rotate the throttle barrel opened and closed a few times to check that there is no binding present in the pushrod wire. Also check that the tip of the pushrod wire does not touch the front of the airplane when the throttle barrel is fully opened. If it does touch, readjust your throttle arm accordingly.

SERVO INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Plywood Servo Tray

❑ {4} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

Blind nuts have been preinstalled in each of the

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predrilled holes to accept the socket-cap screws. ❑ 4) If your engine is equipped with a rear needle

valve assembly, install that onto your engine now.

Because there is not much room between the

☛

back of the rear needle valve mount and the firewall, you may need to cut the allen wrench (provided with your engine) shorter to make it easier to tighten the rear needle valve mounting screws.

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD

❑ 5) Slide the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire into the preinstalled nylon pushrod housing installed in the firewall, directly behind the throttle arm.

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 1/16” Drill Bit

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

❑ 1) Locate the three servos you intend to use for the elevator, rudder/steering and throttle controls. Carefully install the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto each of the servo mounting lugs. For proper vibration reduction, the brass collets should be inserted into the rubber grommets with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting lugs.

See figure # 3 below .

Figure # 3

Rub ber

Grommet

Brass Co llet

❑ 2) Position the three servos into the preinstalled servo tray, making sure that you run the servo wires below the tray and out toward the front of the fuselage. Pay close attention to the positions of the servo output shafts. They should face the directions shown.

See photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

❑ 6) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the servo tray firmly in place and screw the wood screws down into the wing. Tighten them firmly to hold the servo tray securely in place. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO

T o make it easier , position the elevator and rud-

☛

der servos first, then run those servo wires out to the front of the fuselage. After that you can position the throttle servo and wire more easily.

❑ 3) Using a drill with a 1/16” drill bit, drill twelve pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the servo mounting screws (included with your radio system). Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install and tighten the mounting screws to hold the servos in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will

☛

make it easier to install the mounting screws.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO TRAY

❑ 4) Using a # 2 phillips screwdriver, partially thread each of the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws into the four predrilled pilot holes in the aileron servo tray. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

❑ 7) Locate the servo you intend to use for aileron control. Carefully install the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto the servo mounting lugs. For proper vibration reduction, the brass collets should be inserted into the rubber grommets with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting lugs. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

Rub ber

Grommet

Brass Co llet

❑ 8) Position the aileron servo into the servo tray, noting the position of the servo output shaft. It should face the trailing edge of the wing. See photo

# 28 below.

Photo # 28

❑ 5) Lay the wing upside down on your work table and set the servo tray over the cutout. To align the tray properly, the cutout in the servo tray should be centered with the cutout in the wing.

When installing the servo, make sure that you

☛

run the servo wire out through the notch in the side of the tray.

❑ 9) Using a drill with a 1/16” drill bit, drill four pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the mounting screws (included with your radio system). Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install and tighten the mounting screws to hold the servo in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will

☛

make it easier to install the mounting screws. Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing!

THROTTLE PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ Pacer Thread Lock

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

❑ 1) Locate one plastic "4-point" servo horn that came with your servo. Each of the arms should have at least three holes in them.

Before starting the next few steps, please make

☛

sure you have read and completely understood how your radio control system operates.

❑ 4) Per your radio system guide, plug the battery into the switch, the switch into the receiver, and the throttle servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver. Turn on the radio system.

❑ 5) Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick on the transmitter is moved forward, from idle to full throttle, the servo output shaft should rotate counterclockwise.

If the servo output shaft does not rotate coun-

☛

terclockwise, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction. Please refer to your radio system guide for more information on this function.

❑ 6) Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter at their lowest positions. Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

❑ 2) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of one of the arms. When you thread the nut on, don't tighten it completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much. See figure # 5 below .

Figure # 5

You will have to enlarge the hole in the servo

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arm using a 5/64” drill bit so that the servo connector will fit through without binding.

❑ 3) While holding the first nut in place, apply a couple of drops of Pacer Thread Lock onto the second nut and tighten it against the first nut. This will act as a jam nut and prevent the connector from loosening during flight.

❑ 7) Push the carburetor barrel fully closed using your fingers. Angle the servo horn back about 45º from center and attach the servo horn to the servo output shaft. The servo connector should be pointing toward the fuselage side. See photo # 29 below .

Photo # 29

❑ 8) With the carburetor barrel fully closed, use a # 2 phillips screwdriver to tighten the machine screw in the adjustable servo connector.

❑ 9) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install the servo arm retaining screw , provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

❑ 10) When your throttle linkage is adjusted properly, the carburetor barrel should be fully closed when the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever are at their lowest positions. Moving the throttle trim lever up should open the carburetor barrel about 25%. Moving the throttle stick all the way forward should open the throttle barrel completely. All of these movements should be done without any binding in the linkage. Sometimes the servo will bind at the fully closed and/or the fully opened throttle positions. If this happens, and your radio is equipped with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjustments using the transmitter. (See your radio guide for further details.) If your radio does not have this feature you can still adjust the linkage manually. For more travel, move the adjustable servo connector to a hole farther out from the center of the servo horn. (You will have to use a servo horn with four or more holes.) For less travel, move the servo connector to a hole closer to the center of the servo horn. Ideally, you don't want the servo to bind while at idle or full throttle.

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ 3) Place the nylon backplate onto the machine screws, aligning the two holes in the backplate with the two screws. Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, evenly tighten both machine screws to draw the backplate into place. Be careful not to overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the wood. See

photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD WIRE

❑ 4) Using a pair of scissors, cut off a 1/4” piece of clear tubing. Slide the tubing onto the base of one nylon clevis. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn

❑ {1} Nylon Backplate

❑ {2} 2mm x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ {1} Nylon Clevis

❑ {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

❑ {1} 2mm x 650mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

❑ {1} Clear Tubing

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

❑ 1) Turn the fuselage upside down and position the control horn on the bottom surface of the elevator. Line up the two holes in the base of the control horn with the two predrilled holes in the elevator.

❑ 5) Locate a plastic "4-point" servo horn that came with your servo. Each of the arms should have at least three holes in it. Using a pair of wire cutters, remove one of the plastic arms.

❑ 6) Using a drill with a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the third hole out from the center of the arm to the left of the one you cut off. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 650mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

❑ 2) Push two 2mm x 10mm machine screws into the base of the control horn and through the elevator.

❑ 7) Plug the battery into the switch and the switch into the receiver. Plug the elevator servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver and turn on the radio system. Make sure the elevator control stick and the elevator trim lever are centered.

❑ 8) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 650mm elevator pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the pushrod end exits the back of the fuselage.

❑ 9) Thread the nylon clevis 3/8” onto the threaded end of the pushrod wire. Hold the wire with a pair of pliers to keep it from turning.

❑ 10) Snap the clevis into the fourth hole out from the base of the control horn. Slide the piece of clear tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See

photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

❑ 14) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install the servo arm retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo arm into place.

❑ 15) Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double check that both the elevator and the elevator servo are still centered.

ADJUSTING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ 16) With your radio system plugged in and turned on, check the direction the elevator control surface moves and the amount of control deflection. T o do this pull back on the elevator control stick. The elevator should move up. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction. (Refer to your radio guide for more information on this function.)

❑ 17) Pull back completely on the elevator control stick. While holding the control stick completely back, use a ruler and measure the amount the trailing edge of the elevator moves up. This measurement should be 1/2”. See figure # 6 below.

❑ 11) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator and the stabilizer tips, to hold the elevator centered.

❑ 12) Working from inside the servo compartment, carefully thread the elevator pushrod wire in or out until the servo horn lines up with the elevator servo output shaft.

❑ 13) When satisfied with the alignment, attach the servo horn to the servo output shaft, making sure that the servo arm is centered. See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

Figure # 6

Elevator

1/2

Horizontal

Sta bilizer

Note - Elevator moves the same am ount

both up and down

❑ 18) If the control surface deflection is more or less than 1/2” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with End Point A djustments (EPA), make those adjustments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide for further details.) If your radio does not have this feature, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrod manually.

❑ 19) If the elevator is moving more than 1/2”, move the snap keeper in one hole toward the center of the servo horn to decrease the control deflection. If the elevator is moving less than 1/2”, move the clevis one hole closer to the base of the control horn to increase the control deflection. When adjusted properly, the elevator should move 1/2” both up and down.

RUDDER PUSHROD

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD WIRE

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn

❑ {1} Nylon Control Horn Backplate

❑ {2} 2mm x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ {1} Nylon Clevis

❑ {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

❑ {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

❑ {1} 2mm x 650mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

❑ {1} Clear Tubing

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ 12” Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Pacer Thread Lock

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

❑ 4) Using a pair of scissors, cut off a 1/4” piece of clear tubing. Slide the tubing onto the base of one nylon clevis.

❑ 5) Locate a plastic "4-point" servo horn that came with your servo. Each of the arms should have at least three holes in it. Using a pair of wire cutters, remove one of the servo arms.

❑ 6) Using a drill with a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the third hole out from the center of the arm to the right of the one you cut off. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 650mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See photo # 36 below.

Photo # 36

❑ 1) Position the nylon control horn on the left side of the rudder, lining up the two holes in the base of the control horn with the two predrilled holes in the rudder.

❑ 2) Push two 2mm x 10mm machine screws into the base of the control horn and completely through the rudder.

❑ 3) Place the nylon backplate onto the machine screws, aligning the holes in the backplate with the screws. Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, tighten the machine screws evenly to draw the backplate into place. See photo # 35 below.

Photo # 35

❑ 7) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of the servo arm directly opposite the pushrod wire. When you thread the nut on, don't tighten it completely. Y ou don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much. See

photo # 37 below.

Photo # 37

You will have to enlarge the hole in the servo

☛

arm using a 5/64” drill bit, so the servo connector will fit through without binding.

Be careful not to overtighten the screws. You

☛

don't want to crush the wood.

❑ 8) While holding the first nut in place, apply a couple of drops of Pacer Thread Lock onto the second nut and tighten it against the first nut. This will act as a jam nut and prevent the connector from loosening during flight.

❑ 9) Plug the battery into the switch and the switch into the receiver. Plug the rudder servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver and turn on the radio system. Make sure the rudder control stick and rudder trim lever are centered.

❑ 10) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 650mm pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the threaded end exits the top of the fuselage.

❑ 11) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo horn over the end of the steering pushrod wire and align the servo horn with the servo output shaft. Attach the servo horn to the output shaft, making sure that the servo horn is centered. See photo # 38 below.

Photo # 38

❑ 15) With the rudder servo horn centered, center the nose gear strut. When satisfied with the alignment, use a # 2 phillips screwdriver and tighten the machine screw in the adjustable servo connector.

❑ 16) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install the servo arm retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ 17) Remove the masking tape from the rudder and double check that the rudder, the rudder servo and the nose gear strut are all still centered.

ADJUSTING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

❑ 18) With your radio system plugged in and turned on, check the direction the rudder control surface moves and the amount of deflection. To do this push right on the rudder control stick. The rudder should move right. Look at the nose gear, too. It should move right, as well. If they do not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction. (Refer to your radio guide for more information on this function.)

❑ 12) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the vertical stabilizer and the rudder, to hold the rudder centered.

❑ 13) With the servo horn centered, carefully thread the nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the rudder pushrod wire until the pin in the clevis lines up with the holes in the control horn. Use a pair of pliers to hold the wire and keep it from turning.

❑ 14) Snap the clevis into the third hole out from the base of the control horn. Slide the piece of clear tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See

photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

❑ 19) Push right completely on the rudder control stick. While holding the control stick fully right, use a ruler and measure the amount the trailing edge of the rudder moves right. This measurement should be 5/8”. See figure # 7 below.

Figure # 7

Rudder

5/8

Vertical

Stabilizer

Note - Rudder moves the same amount

both right and left

❑ 20) If the control surface deflection is more or less than 5/8” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with End Point A djustments (EPA), make those adjustments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide for further details.) If your radio does not have this feature, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrod manually.

❑ 21) If the rudder is moving more than 5/8”, move the snap keeper in one hole toward the center of the servo horn to decrease the control deflection. If the rudder is moving less than 5/8”, move the clevis one hole closer to the base of the control horn to increase the control deflection. When adjusted properly, the rudder should move 5/8” both right and left.

AILERON PUSHRODS

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {2} Nylon Clevises

❑ {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

❑ {2} 2mm x 90mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends

❑ {1} Clear Tubing

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Needle Nose Pliers

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ 12” Straight Edge Ruler

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHRODS

❑ 1) Locate a plastic "4-point" servo horn that came with your servo. Each of the arms should have at least four holes in it. Using a pair of wire cutters, remove one of the arms.

Figure # 8

❑ 6) Plug the battery into the switch and the switch into the receiver. Plug the aileron servo lead into the proper slot in the receiver and turn on the radio system. Make sure the aileron control stick and aileron trim lever are centered.

❑ 7) Attach the servo horn onto the aileron servo output shaft, making sure that the servo horn is centered. See photo # 41 below.

Photo # 41

❑ 2) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the third hole out from the center of the arm to the right of the one you cut off. Do the same in the arm directly opposite the first one.

❑ 3) Insert the L-bends in the two 2mm x 90mm aileron pushrod wires down through the two holes. Place a nylon snap keeper over each wire to hold them securely to the servo arms. See photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

❑ 4) Using a pair of scissors, cut off two 1/4” pieces of clear tubing. Slide one piece of tubing each onto the bases of two nylon clevises.

❑ 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the wing tips and the ailerons, to hold the ailerons centered.

❑ 9) Thread the two nylon clevises onto the threaded ends of the two aileron pushrod wires until the pin in each clevis lines up with the hole in each adjustable control horn. Use a pair of pliers to hold the wires and keep them from turning.

❑ 10) Snap the clevises into the adjustable control horns and carefully slide the pieces of clear tubing up over the clevises to secure them in place. See

photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

❑ 5) Two nylon adjustable control horns have been partially threaded onto the two aileron torque rods. Carefully thread the control horns into their final positions. They should both be flush with the tops of the torque rods. See figure # 8 at top right.

❑ 11) Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install the servo arm retaining screw, provided with your servo, to secure the servo horn into place.

❑ 12) Remove the masking tape from both ailerons and double check that both ailerons, and the aileron servo, are still centered.

ADJUSTING THE AILERON PUSHRODS

❑ 13) With your radio system plugged in and turned on, check the direction the aileron control surfaces move and amount of deflection. To do this, push right on the aileron control stick. The aileron on the right side of the wing should move up and the aileron on the left side should move down (looking at the wing right side up, from the rear). If they do not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction. (Refer to your radio guide for more information on this function.)

❑ 14) Push right completely on the aileron control stick. While holding the control stick fully right, use a ruler and measure the amount the trailing edge of each aileron moves. These measurements should be 3/8”. See figure # 9 below.

Figure # 9

Aileron

3/8

FINAL ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

❑ {1} Plastic Spinner Assembly

❑ {2} 2.5mm x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ {1} Decal Set

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver

❑ Wire Cutters

❑ Electric or Hand Drill

❑ 5/64” Drill Bit

❑ Scissors

❑ Masking Tape

INSTALLING THE FUEL LINES

❑ 1) Per your engine's instructions, install the muffler onto the engine. Use a muffler gasket if your engine provides one. Using a pair of scissors, cut each of the two silicon fuel lines to the proper length and attach them to the engine. The vent/pressure line connects to the pressure nipple on the muffler. The fuel pickup line connects to the fuel nipple on the carburetor, or to the rear needle valve assembly, if your engine is equipped with one. See photo # 43 below.

Photo # 43

3/8

Wing

Note - Both ailerons should move the

same amount both up and down

❑ 15) If the control surface deflection is more or less than 3/8” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with End Point Adjustments (EPA), make those adjustments using the transmitter. (Refer to your radio guide for further details.) If your radio does not have this feature, you can still make the adjustments to the pushrods manually.

❑ 16) If the ailerons are moving more than 3/8”, move both snap keepers in one hole towards the center of the servo horn to decrease the control deflection. If the ailerons are moving less than 3/8”, thread both adjustable control horns down about 1/4”. This will increase the control deflection. When adjusted properly, both ailerons should move 3/8” both up and down.

❑ 2) To fill the fuel tank, remove the silicon fuel lines from both the carburetor and the muffler.

When fueling, direct the line from the muffler

☛

away from the fuselage. This will prevent excess fuel from getting onto the airplane.

❑ 3) Fill through the fuel pickup line and watch for excess fuel coming from the vent line. When fuel begins to come out of the vent line, the fuel tank is full. Reattach the fuel lines to their proper locations.

INSTALLING THE SPINNER

❑ 4) Remove the propeller nut and washer from your engine. Slide the plastic spinner backplate onto the crankshaft, followed by the propeller.

❑ 5) Slide the propeller washer onto the crankshaft and thread on the propeller nut. Turn the propeller until it is centered between the four molded posts in the backplate. See photo # 44 below.

Photo # 44

❑ 10) Mount the switch using the faceplate and two machine screws you removed previously . Use a # 1 phillips screwdriver to tighten the screws and secure the switch in place. See photo # 46 below.

Photo # 46

❑ 6) While holding the propeller in place and aligned, tighten the propeller nut firmly.

❑ 7) Slide the spinner cone over the propeller, making sure that the molded lip in the cone is seated in the molded groove in the backplate. See

photo # 45 below.

Photo # 45

❑ 8 ) Turn the spinner cone until the two molded holes in the cone line up with the two molded mounting posts in the backplate. Using a # 1 phillips screwdriver, install and tighten the two 2.5mm x 12mm wood screws to secure the spinner cone into place.

Be careful not to overtighten the two screws.

☛

Y ou only want them tight enough to hold the spinner cone in place. If you overtighten them, the spinner cone could crack.

INSTALLING THE BATTERY & RECEIVER

❑ 11) Using a pair of scissors, cut a piece of Dubro foam rubber large enough to wrap around the receiver battery pack.

❑ 12) Wrap the foam rubber around the battery pack and use a couple of long pieces of masking tape, wrapped around the pack, to hold the foam rubber in place. See photo # 47 below.

Photo # 47

❑ 13) Place the battery pack onto the fuselage floor , directly under the cutout in the forward portion of the servo tray . Turn the battery so that the wire lead comes out towards the front of the fuselage.

❑ 14) Plug the three servo leads and the switch lead into their proper slots in the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into its proper switch lead.

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

❑ 9) Remove the two machine screws and faceplate from the switch harness that was included with your radio system.

The switch is mounted in the precut hole in the

☛

left side of the fuselage.

❑ 15) Using a pair of scissors, cut out a piece of Dubro foam rubber large enough to wrap around the receiver .

❑ 16) Wrap the foam rubber around the receiver and use a couple of long pieces of masking tape, wrapped around the receiver, to hold the foam rubber in place.

Do not wrap the foam around the receiver too

☛

tightly . You want to be careful not to crush the servo leads where they come out the top of the receiver.

Adjust the modified servo arm so that the an-

☛

tenna is not pulled too tightly. You don't want to put too much strain on it.

❑ 17) Slide the receiver on top of the battery pack, with the servo leads facing the back of the fuselage, wedging the receiver under the crossbrace in the servo tray. This will hold the battery and receiver firmly in place. See photo # 48 below.

Photo # 48

❑ 18) Using a drill with a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole through the left side of the fuselage, 1” below the switch harness. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ 19) Using wire cutters, carefully make an antenna mount out of an extra servo horn. Cut the arm into the shape shown. See figure # 10 below.

Do not cut off the excess antenna. Let the ex-

☛

cess hang behind the airplane. Cutting the antenna will greatly reduce the range of the receiver and could cause you to lose control of the airplane.

APPLYING THE DECALS

❑ 21) Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out each of the decals along their outer edges.

❑ 22) Working with one decal at a time, remove the protective backing and apply the decal to the airplane. Use the box top photographs as a reference for placement. Continue until you have applied all of the decals. See photo # 50 below.

Photo # 50

Figure # 10

Servo Horn

Modified Servo

❑ 20) Secure the antenna to the vertical stabilizer using a small rubber band, a push pin, and the modified servo arm. See photo # 49 below.

Photo # 49

Arm

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Portion

BALANCING

❑ 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is

located 3-1/8” back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides. This location is recom-

mended for initial test flying and trimming. There is a 3/8” margin forward and a 3/8” margin aft, but it is not recommended that the center of gravity be located any farther back than 3-1/2”.

Balance the RCM Trainer 40 ARF with the fuel

☛

tank empty.

❑ 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage using the two machine screws and washers provided. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the bottom of the wing, 3-1/8” back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.

❑ 3) Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane. If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack back in the fuselage just far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack forward only enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.

❑ 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the RCM Trainer to ensure that everything is tight and well bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

❑ 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.

❑ 4) Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

Once you have flown and trimmed the RCM

☛

Trainer , the balance point (C.G.) can be moved forward or aft 3/8” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the balance point forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive. Do not fly the

RCM T rainer beyond the r ecommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

CONTROL THROWS

❑ 1) We recommend setting up the RCM Trainer using the control throws we recommended in the pushrod installation steps. Those control throws are suggested for initial test flying. If you haven't set up the control throws yet, we have listed them here again, along with a set of control throws recommended for advanced training and/or experienced pilots. Please refer back to those pages for the proper technique for adjusting the control throws.

TEST FLYING AND TRAINING

❑ 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.

❑ 6) Check to ensure that the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

❑ 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

❑ 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out-ofbalance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure. T o balance the propeller we recommend using the Prather Prop Balancer. The part number is 520429.

SAFETY

The following are our guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.

Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” down Elevator: 1/2” up 1/2” down Rudder: 5/8” right 5/8” left

ADVANCED TRAINING

Ailerons: 1/2” up 1/2” down Elevator: 5/8” up 5/8” down Rudder: 1” right 1” left

Do not use the Advanced Training

settings for Test Flying.

PREFLIGHT CHECK

❑ 1) Completely charge the radio transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

❑ 1) Do not test fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

❑ 2) Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right of way to full scale aircraft.

❑ 3) When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

❑ 4) While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately.

❑ 5) Don't drink and fly. Consuming alcoholic beverages prior to flying, or while you are flying, is a big no-no.

❑ 6) You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model.

❑ 7) You should perform your initial turn after take off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

❑ 8) Y ou should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

NOTES

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ABC'S OF FLYING

If you've come this far, now you're ready to prepare for the maiden voyage of your new RCM Trainer. Before proceeding, we highly recommend double checking all of your work. Make sure there is no detail you missed and that you understand all of the airplane's functions. We hope you find the following sections helpful, making your first flights successful.

Since you've chosen the RCM Trainer, you've avoided the most common mistake beginners make: choosing a high performance airplane like a P-51 Mustang or a F-16 jet as a trainer. Just as you wouldn't learn to drive a car using an Indy car, new flyers should learn to fly R/C airplanes using a trainer. The second mistake new pilots make is not seeking out the help of an experienced modeler. While it is certainly true that some people have learned to fly without help, having the help of an experienced R/C model pilot will help make those first few flights much more successful and enjoyable. So, we highly recommend seeking out a club or a flying field near you. Y ou'd be surprised just how many clubs there are that help beginners.

Once at the field, even before removing your airplane from the car, introduce yourself to some of the other pilots. Find out what safety procedures and frequency control system is in place. In short, learn and follow the field etiquette. Doing so will ensure safe flying for you and others. You will also be able to find out who might be the right person to help you learn to fly.

Sometimes it is just impossible to find anyone to help. In that case it would be wise to seek out some additional information about flying. R/C Modeler Magazine publishes an excellent book detailing the art of R/C flying. Subjects covered include: flight theory, control systems, equipment selection, building techniques, your first flight, and much more. If you would like to purchase this book, the part

number is 703728.

P/N 703728

Y ou may also wish to seek out a computer simulator. There are several dif ferent brands of excellent flight simulators that can be very effective at teaching the basic coordination of R/C flight.

If you do decide you have no choice but to learn to fly on your own, choosing the place to fly your new airplane is of the utmost importance. Select your potential flying field with the following considerations:

1) Look for a long, wide runway. The bigger it is, the easier it is to find when landing. Optimum sites are large grass fields and dry lake beds.

2) The fewer the ground obstructions the better! No trees, small hills, large rocks or buildings should be nearby.

3) While R/C flying is generally safe, it can lead to serious harm or injury. Do not try to fly your model if there are any houses or people nearby.

4) The take off surface should be short grass, hard packed dirt, concrete or asphalt. The surface should be smooth and free from any small rocks or holes. You don't want anything to interfere with the plane as you taxi, take off and land.

5) No high-lines, telephone lines or electrical lines should be near the flying site. If your plane accidentally does fly into wires of some kind do not try to retrieve it yourself! Serious injury or even death could result. Contact the local police or fire department. They can send somebody to help you retrieve the airplane safely.

BASICS OF FLIGHT

T o begin, you should know how the RCM Trainer operates. First, there are four forces operating on a flying aircraft: Lift, Weight, Thrust and Drag. The engine will create thrust to overcome the drag. In times when the engine is off, gravity pulling the plane down can act as thrust (how gliders work). The wing flies through the air as a result of the thrust and causes lift to overcome the weight of the aircraft.

Lift

Thrust

Weight

Drag

Flying is three dimensional; therefore, all aircraft operate on three axes: roll, yaw and pitch. Roll is the wing tips raising and lowering. Y aw is the nose moving from right to left. Pitch is the nose moving up and down. Maintaining flight is the act of overcoming weight and drag with lift and thrust while properly controlling all three axes.

Yaw

Roll

Pitch

Choosing the RCM T rainer as your first airplane greatly simplifies these activities. First, it takes very little thrust to overcome the drag, so much so that the airplane glides well with no power at all. Second, the wing is a high lift design that easily overcomes the weight, which means that the airplane can fly very slowly.

Controlling the RCM T rainer

If you have never controlled any vehicle by radio control, then this step can be especially important. Some of the basic coordination can be learned on the ground by simply practicing taxiing the aircraft. First, remove the wing and cover the open area of the fuselage, where the wing would normally go, with a thin piece of cardboard. This will protect the radio equipment from engine exhaust.

Check the controls. Make sure the throttle and steering are working properly . Start your engine, and at low throttle try driving the airplane around on the ground. A large, unused parking lot is especially good for this practice. Remember, moving the stick to the right or left is in relation to the airplane's right or left. Keep practicing because it will take some getting used to. Try figure 8's and rectangular patterns. Don't go too fast! The RCM Trainer is not a car! This will also give you a chance to make sure the nose gear steering tracks straight. It may be necessary to adjust the steering linkage if it doesn't track straight.

Learn to control the throttle, too. Most flying will be done at less than full throttle; however, take offs will be at full throttle and landings will be with throttle at idle or completely off. So, get used to setting the throttle at different speeds.

If you can easily steer the airplane around on the ground, it's time to take that experience and apply it to flight. First, let's lay out the basic maneuvers that will make up your training flights.

1) T ake off

2) Climb-out

3) Level Flight

4) Standard Turns

5) Descent

6) Landing

All flight is based on these few tasks. Here, we've laid them out in the same order they will be during flight. Learn these basics and you will soon fly your RCM Trainer with great success. Now look at each maneuver individually . Before flight, make sure you are completely familiar with the functions of the transmitter, including all controls and trim levers.

Take off and climb-out require that the plane be facing into the wind. Make small adjustments to the rudder control stick to keep the plane tracking straight as engine power is increased. Allow the airplane to continue to roll on the ground until the airplane is moving fast. Gently apply a small amount of up elevator to lift the nose. The wing will lift the plane off the ground. At this point let off of the rudder and use the ailerons to keep the wings level. Use the elevator to keep the nose up slightly. Allow the plane to climb on its own. Climbing too fast will cause the plane to pitch up and stop flying, and the nose will drop rapidly. This is called a stall. If this happens, allow the nose to drop slightly (which will give the airplane more speed) and then apply a small amount of up elevator to bring the nose level.

Once the airplane has reached 50 to 100 feet of altitude, it is time to level the plane and then try a turn. To level the plane, simply move the elevator stick to neutral. Keep the wings level using the ailerons. If the plane still climbs slightly or turns, adjust the trim levers on the transmitter until the airplane flies straight with no stick input.

Now try a turn (before the airplane gets too far away). To turn, apply aileron until the wing drops about 15 degrees (or the wing tip is just below the fuselage). As the wing drops, begin to apply up elevator. Up elevator will maintain the plane's altitude and will hold it in the turn. To prevent the plane from turning too steeply, as soon as a good bank is established release the aileron control. Use only the elevator to maintain altitude and hold the plane in

the turn. Once it has turned enough, apply opposite aileron to level the wings. As this opposite aileron is applied, slowly release the up elevator.

Now continue level flight, which will be a small series of tiny corrections of elevator and aileron to keep the plane straight and level. If you lost altitude during the turn, this is a good time to climb out again.

Before the plane gets too far away, try another turn. Continue making standard turns and keep the airplane over the flying field.

The next maneuver will be descent. Usually , one pairs descent with landing, but, in fact, most model airplanes are constantly descending and climbing out. Having the ability to perform a good controlled descent is important. T o descend, simply throttle back to about 1/4 throttle. As the throttle is reduced, allow the plane's nose to drop some.

The descent should be gentle, so let the nose drop about 10 to 20 degrees. Keep the wings level unless a turn is required. If you must turn, bank as usual to start the turn but hold only about half of the normal amount of up elevator you usually hold to maintain a turn. In doing so, you will not slow the airplane too much. When you've reached your desired altitude, level the wings and add throttle as you add some up elevator to level the plane.

The final maneuver will be landing. For your first landing, the goal should be to get the plane down anywhere on the field without hitting anything. Landings should always be made into the wind. Usually, it is easiest to set up for a landing by making a landing approach. The first part of the landing approach is the descent. Descend going with the wind (opposite of the direction you will be landing). Once you've descended to an altitude of 30-50 feet, turn into the wind. At this point level the wings, throttle back to idle and allow the nose to drop to descend to the ground without getting too slow. When the plane is 10 feet off the ground (just above eye level), apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the descent and to slow the plane. Remember to keep the wings level. Now the plane should descend but it will seem like the nose has not dropped much. If the plane doesn't descend, allow the nose to drop a little. Just before the plane touches down, apply some up elevator to level the plane with the ground. Because the engine is at idle (or off completely) the plane will still drop and touch down.

Things to avoid

1) Stalling. Stalling is when the air stops flowing over the wing properly. For the RCM T rainer, this only happens when the airplane is flying very slowly. A stall normally results in the nose dropping uncontrollably. If a stall does occur, allow the nose to drop, which will increase the airspeed, then apply up elevator to level the plane. Remember not to pull too much up elevator or the stall may occur again.

2) Radical Turns. Keeping the wings level or making standard turns are big steps in preventing the plane from getting out of control. If the plane seems too fast or is getting into too steep a turn, try letting all of the controls go to neutral, then reduce the throttle and make corrections to level the wings and then level the plane.

3) Overcontrolling. Most new pilots try to fly like they are playing a video game. Most likely , you will never need full stick movement for any correction. Typically, you will need very little down elevator as well. Remember to move the stick only small amounts at a time. The radio control system you are using is proportional, meaning the amount you move the stick is in direct proportion to the amount the control surface moves. Full deflection of the control surfaces is typically reserved for correcting a major mistake or trying an aerobatic maneuver.

Planning the first flight

Leave the plane's radio and engine off. Hold the transmitter in your hand and set the airplane on the ground, facing into the wind. Apply throttle and imagine steering the model straight down the runway. Continue to imagine each one of the flight maneuvers and what you have to do on the sticks to keep the plane flying. Remember to pull back on the stick for up elevator, and that turning the plane right or left is in relation to the airplane, not to your right or left. It helps to imagine yourself actually in the cockpit while you're flying.

Before trying the first flight, check that the engine is running properly. Perform a range check as described in your radio system guide and make sure that the batteries have a full charge.

We hope this information will help you make those first few flights successful.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Adjustable Connector: Connects to the servo arm. The pushrod wire passes through the connector and is held in place with a set screw. The screw can be loosened to allow the pushrod wire to be adjusted to the correct length.

Blind Nut: A special type of nut that is used when you can reach to install or tighten a standard nut. A blind nut has prongs that secure it into place.

After reading through the maneuvers, you need to plan your first flight. For your first flight, pick a day that is clear and not windy. Too much wind will complicate your first flight. Take the time to envision the flight path. The flight will, of course, begin with take off and climb-out. Once a safe altitude has been reached, make a turn down wind and continue to climb. Level off at about 100 feet of altitude. Try to perform a basic figure 8 pattern. Learn to make small corrections to keep your plane pointed in the direction you want it to fly. After 8 to 10 minutes, begin your descent to land. Try to turn into the wind to land. If your first landing gets the plane down in one piece and is located somewhere on the flying field, that's pretty good!

Picture yourself flying the plane before trying to actually fly it. It may seem silly, but even professional pilots still review their maneuvers in their head before flying. Military pilots use small hand held models to help them picture their plane's movements.

C/A Glue: An acronym for Cyanoacrylate. It dries very fast like "Super Glue." It comes in many different formulas for different uses.

Center of Gravity: Most commonly referred to as the CG or balance point, it is the point at which the airplane is in complete balance in all three axes.

Clevis: Part of the control system, made out of either nylon or metal. It connects the pushrod wire to the control horn mounted on the control surface.

Clevis Attachment Holes: The molded holes in the control horn. The clevis attaches to these holes.

Control Horn: Part of the control system, the control horn is mounted to the control surface. It allows the pushrod to be connected to the control surface. Almost all control horns are adjustable.

Covering: Material made out of vinyl or polyester.

Covering has heat-sensitive adhesive that, when

heated, sticks to the wood frame of the airplane. The

RCM Trainer uses heat-sensitive polyester covering.

Covering Iron: A small, hand-held iron, usually

Teflon® coated. It is used to heat and apply cover-

ing material.

Dihedral: The upward angle of each wing half. Di-

hedral creates more stability which makes learning

to fly much easier.

Dihedral Brace: Made out of plywood or alumi-

num, the dihedral brace strengthens the joint between

two wing sections.

Elevator: The elevator is the control surface on the

back of the airplane that moves up and down. This

surface controls pitch.

E.P.A.: An acronym for End Point Adjustment. This

is a feature found on newer radio systems that allows

you to electronically adjust the end-travel in servos.

Epoxy: A two-part glue containing a resin and a

hardener. Epoxy is available in several drying times

and is stronger than C/A glue. Epoxy is used in high

stress areas.

Fuel Pickup: More commonly referred to as the

"clunk", the fuel pickup is weighted so that it can

move easily within the fuel tank.

Hinges: Usually made out of plastic or nylon, the

hinges connect the control surfaces to the stabilizers

or wing. They pivot, allowing the control surface to

move.

Horizontal Stabilizer: Mounted in the rear of the

airplane, the horizontal stabilizer works with the el-

evator to control pitch.

Landing Gear Strap: Usually made out of ny-

lon, it secures the landing gear wires to the wing

or fuselage.

Pushrods: They connect the control surface and the

servo, transferring the movement of the servo directly

to the control surface.

Pushrod Housing: A tube that is usually nylon. The pushrod wire runs through the housing.

Receiver: The part of the radio system that receives the signals from the transmitter.

Root Rib: The most inboard rib of any wing panel.

Rudder: The rudder is the control surface on the

back of the airplane that moves right and left. This causes the nose of the airplane to yaw right and left.

Servo: The part of the radio system that produces the movement necessary to move the control surfaces. The servo includes a small motor, gears and a circuit board.

Servo Horn: Made out of plastic or nylon, it attaches to the servo output shaft. The pushrod and/or servo connector are then attached to the servo horn.

Servo Output Shaft: The final gear in the servo gear train. It's the gear that the servo horn is attached to.

Servo Reversing: An option on almost all new radios, servo reversing allows you to change the direction a servo rotates by just flipping a switch on the transmitter.

Servo T ray: Usually made out of plywood, the servo tray is the mounting base for the servos.

Stall Speed: The speed at which air stops moving fast enough over the surface of a wing to keep the airplane flying.

Threaded Pushrod: A length of wire that has threads cut into one end of it. See Pushrods.

Transmitter: The part of the radio system that you control. It transmits the control inputs to the receiver, which transfers that information to the servos.

Trim Lever: A sliding lever on the transmitter that allows you to make small adjustments to the control surfaces from the transmitter.

Vent Tube: Commonly referred to as the pressure tube, the vent tube is connected by the fuel line to the pressure nipple on the muffler. Removing the vent tube during the fueling process allows excess fuel to come out of the tank.

Continued on Next Page

➜

Vertical Stabilizer: Mounted on the rear of the airplane, it works with the rudder to turn the airplane. It also gives the airplane vertical stability.

Wing Saddle: This is the area formed by the fuselage sides that the wing is mounted to.

Z-Bend: This is a special bend made in the pushrod wire. While it cannot improve your ability to make adjustments, the Z-Bend is the most secure way to attach the pushrod wire to the servo horn.

PRPR

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

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1) Kit: RCM Trainer 40 ARF

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

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5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of

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the photographs? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

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❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem? ❑ Yes ❑ No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

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8) What did you like most about this kit?

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9) What did you like least about this kit?

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10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain. ❑ Yes ❑ No

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11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?

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Additional Comments: ______________________________________________________________

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Global Hobby RCM Trainer 40 Instructions For Final Assembly

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual