Global Hobby Kwik Fly II ARF Instructions For Final Assembly

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Global Kwik Fly II ARF is distributed exclusively by

Global Hobby Distributors 18480 Bandilier Circle,

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 February 2003

Kit Product Number 125822

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

Specifications:

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Wing Span: 66.5 Inches

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Wing Area: 830 Square Inches

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Length: 52.5 Inches

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Weight RTF: 8 - 9 Pounds

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Wing Loading: 22 - 25 Ounces Per Square Foot

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder, Throttle & Optional Flap

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Power: .61 - .91 2-Stroke or .80 - .91 4-stroke

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Radio: 4 - 5 Channel w/5 - 6 Standard Ball Bearing Servos

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ............................................................................................... 2

Introduction ..................................................................................................... 3

Section 1: Our Recommendations ....................................................4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required .......................................... 5

Section 3: Kit Contents ..................................................................... 5

Section 4: Replacement Parts .......................................................... 7

Section 5: A Note About Covering ....................................................7

Section 6: Wing Assembly ................................................................ 8

Section 7: Stabilizer Installation......................................................10

Section 8: Control Surface Hinging ................................................ 13

Section 9: Main Landing Gear Installation .....................................14

Section 10: Nose Gear Installation ................................................. 16

Section 11: Engine Installation ....................................................... 17

Section 12: Fuel Tank Assembly & Installation .............................. 20

Section 13: Servo Installation .........................................................22

Section 14: Throttle Linkage Installation ........................................ 24

Section 15: Elevator Control System Installation ........................... 25

Section 16: Rudder Control System Installation ............................ 28

Section 17: Aileron Control System Installation .............................30

Section 18: Center-Flap Control System Installation .....................31

Section 19: Final Assembly............................................................. 33

Section 20: Balancing the Kwik Fly II ARF .....................................36

Section 21: Lateral Balancing the Kwik Fly II ARF......................... 37

Section 22: Control Throws............................................................. 37

Section 23: Preflight Check & Safety ............................................. 38

Section 24: Flying the Kwik Fly II ARF ........................................... 39

Section 25: Kwik Fly II ARF Trimming Chart .................................. 40

Product Evaluation Sheet ............................................................................ 43

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,

knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Global Kwik Fly II ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

Global Kwik Fly II ARF Features:

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Completely Prebuilt from Balsa, Light Plywood and Foam

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Classic, Great-Flying Design

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Expertly Covered with Real Heat-Shrink, Iron-On Covering Material

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Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling

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Durable Heavy-Duty Landing Gear Wires

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Center-Flap Option for Extra-Slow Landings

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Clear Molded Canopy

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All Hardware Included - Wheels, Fuel Tank, Engine Mount, Pushrods, Etc.

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Fast & Easy Assembly - Over 60 High-Resolution Digital Photos Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the

small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

Visit Our Website

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new Global Kwik Fly II ARF. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.

What Engine Should I Use?

The Kwik Fly II will fly great on a variety of engines, so which engine you choose really depends on how you want to fly the airplane and on personal preference. For general sport flying, a .61 two stroke or .80 four stroke would be an ideal choice. Either of these engines will provide good overall performance and will pull the airplane through most aerobatic maneuvers with ease. Both engines can be mounted sideways and still use their stock mufflers, although the .61 size two stroke engine will require the use of a muffler extension so the muffler will clear the bottom of the fuselage.

For all-out aerobatics a .91 two stroke or .91 four stroke would be a great choice. Either of these engines will provide an excellent power-to-weight ratio, resulting in nearly unlimited vertical performance. Both engines can be mounted sideways and still use their stock mufflers, although the .91 size two stroke will require the use of a muffler extension so the muffler will clear the bottom of the fuselage.

What Servos Should I Use?

There really is no reason to go overboard on high-priced, ultra-precision servos. A good, standard, dual ball bearing servo with a minimum of 40 ounces of torque will work well on the flight-control surfaces and a standard bushing servo will be good for use on the throttle and the center-flap.

Do I Need To Use the Center-Flap?

The center-flap is optional, so, no, you don't need to use it. If you decide you want to make it functional you will need one extra standard servo and a 5 channel radio control system to operate it. Hardware is included to hinge the center-flap and connect it to the servo. If you choose not to use the center-flap, it can be locked into place using the hardware included.

What Else Do I Need?

The Kwik Fly II includes all of the hardware you'll need to finish the airplane. You will need some basic building materials, such as adhesives, protective foam rubber for your radio gear and fuel tubing. You will also need a couple of 12" servo extensions and a Y-Harness to connect the two separate aileron servos. We've provided a comprehensive list below of the items we used on the airplane shown in this instruction manual.

Here's What We Used to Finish Our Kwik Fly II ARF:

QTY. 1 210803 Magnum XL .61ARNV 2-Stroke Engine

QTY. 1 280153 Magnum Muffler Extension for XL .61ARNV Engine

QTY. 5 Cirrus Ball Bearing Standard Servos

QTY. 1 Cirrus Ball Bearing Standard Servo (Optional for Center-Flap Assembly)

QTY. 2 444713 Cirrus 12" Servo Extension Cord

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

QTY. 1 608660 APC 12 x 6 Composite Propeller

QTY. 1 115493 Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug

QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicon Fuel Tubing

QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber

QTY. 1 592634 Williams Bros. Scale Sportsman Pilot (Optional)

IMPORTANT The part numbers listed for the Cirrus extension cords and Y-harness are compatible with Hitec and JR radio control

systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the final assembly of your Kwik Fly II ARF. We suggest having these items on-hand before beginning assembly.

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors

SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

❑ Electric Drill

❑ Assorted Drill Bits

❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567685

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977

❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ Builder's Triangle

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204

❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92708

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

On the Web

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 E-mail: service@globalhobby.net

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

❑ (2) 3-1/8" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates

❑ (4) 2mm x 30mm Machine Screws

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises

❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers

❑ (8) C/A Style Hinges

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 18" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

Continued On Next Page

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

KIT CONTENTS CONTINUED....

MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Prebent Main Gear Wires ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (6) Nylon Landing Gear Straps ❑ (2) 4mm Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) 4mm Wheel Collars w/Set Screws ❑ (12) 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

NOSE GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Prebent Nose Gear Wire ❑ (1) Nose Gear Wheel ❑ (1) Nylon Steering Arm w/Set Screw ❑ (2) 4mm Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) 4mm Wheel Collars w/Set Screws ❑ (1) 18" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 23-3/4" Nylon Pushrods ❑ (2) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (4) 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws ❑ (3) Nylon Clevises ❑ (1) Nylon Pushrod Joiner Plate ❑ (1) 2mm x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (2) 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) 2mm Flat Washers ❑ (1) 2mm Hex Nut ❑ (6) C/A Style Hinges

ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) 4mm x 20mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) 4mm Blind Nuts ❑ (4) 4mm x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) 4mm Lock Nuts ❑ (12) 4mm Flat Washers

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 23-3/4" Nylon Pushrod ❑ (2) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate ❑ (2) 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (3) C/A Style Hinges

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 360cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner ❑ (2) 5mm x 50mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) 5mm Flat Washers ❑ (1) Center-Flap ❑ (1) Plywood Center-Flap Servo Tray ❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate (small) ❑ (2) 2mm x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (1) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wire ❑ (1) Nylon Clevis ❑ (1) Nylon 90º Snap Keeper ❑ (4) C/A Style Hinges

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (1) Prepainted Molded Fiberglass Cowling ❑ (1) Clear Molded Canopy ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Wood Screws ❑ (4) 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) 3mm Flat Washers

MISCELLANEOUS PARTS

❑ (1) Length of Clear Tubing ❑ (1) Decal Set ❑ (1) Adhesive Striping Tape

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in

SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS

Global stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Global Kwik Fly II ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Global products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

Global Kwik Fly II ARF - Complete .................... 125822

Instruction Manual ............................................. 120435

Wing Set ............................................................ 120436

Fuselage Set ..................................................... 120437

Stabilizer Set ..................................................... 120438

Fiberglass Cowling ............................................ 120439

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

Clear Canopy ..................................................... 120440

Engine Mount Set .............................................. 120441

Hardware Set ..................................................... 120442

Fuel Tank Assembly ........................................... 120074

Decal Set ............................................................ 120443

On the Web

SECTION 5: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the Kwik Fly II ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat Sealing

Iron # 360900 is recommended.

Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:

❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for approximately

5 - 7 minutes.

❑ After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron

slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down

☞

and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

WARNING

We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the clear canopy, and the fragile components of the radio system.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 6: WING ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

Step 1: Installing the Wing Joiner

❑ Remove the aileron and hinges from each of the two wing panels and set them aside for now.

❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner

❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the excess

covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" overlapped so it does not pull away.

IMPORTANT It's very important to the integrity of the wing

center section joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs as possible.

❑ Use a ruler and a pencil to locate and draw a vertical

centerline on each side of the hardwood wing joiner.

❑ Test-fit the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should

slide easily into each panel up to the centerline you drew.

If it does not fit properly, use 220 grit sandpaper with a

☞

sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

IMPORTANT The wing joiner is straight. There is no top

or bottom.

❑ Slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner

temporarily installed (without using glue).

❑ Look carefully at the center section joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.

If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding

☞

block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, pull the wing panels apart and remove the wing joiner.

Step 2: Joining the Wing Panels

❑ Apply a long strip of masking tape to the top and bottom

edges of the root rib on each wing panel.

The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting

☞

onto the wing panels when you join them.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy

inside the wing joiner box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

❑ Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to its centerline. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-fit both wing panels together again to double-check that they still fit together properly.

Check the leading and trailing edges, too. It's important that they be even with each other.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of

the wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire surface of BOTH root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

❑ Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.

Step 3: Checking the Center Section Joint

❑ Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center section joint. If any gaps are

present, mix a small amount of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 7: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

Step 1: Mounting the Wing

❑ (2) 5mm x 50mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) 5mm Flat Washers

❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the

covering material from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located 3/4" in front of the trailing edge and 1-1/4" out from the centerline.

❑ With the fuselage upside down, place the wing into the wing saddle and push the trailing edge down into place.

❑ Align the predrilled holes in the wing with the preinstalled

blind nuts in the wing mounting block inside the fuselage. Secure the wing into place using two 5mm x 50mm machine screws and two 5mm flat washers.

Don't overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush

☞

the wing.

IMPORTANT The gap between the trailing edge of the wing and the back of the wing saddle is normal. This area will be

covered by the center-flap when it's hinged later.

Step 2: Aligning & Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer

❑ Remove the elevator halves and hinges from the horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now.

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering

material from over the horizontal and vertical stabilizer mounting slots in the back of the fuselage.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and draw a vertical

centerline across the top of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Carefully slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot, making sure that the trailing edge of the stabilizer, at the bottom, is

even with the back edge of the fuselage.

IMPORTANT The trailing edge of the stabilizer must not extend past the back of the fuselage or the rudder won't line up

properly when it's hinged later.

❑ Carefully center the stabilizer from side-to-side using the

centerline you drew as a guide. It should be centered down the middle of the vertical stabilizer mounting slot when viewed from the top.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing

edge of the stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.

IMPORTANT The front of the stabilizer should be able to

pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and aligned.

❑ With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to

measure the distance between the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are equal.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

❑ When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of

the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.

❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front

of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.

If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220

☞

grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ With the stabilizer properly aligned, use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it meets the

fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

❑ Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, carefully

cut away and remove the covering material from between the lines you drew. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

WARNING When cutting through the covering to remove it,

cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to ONLY the top and bottom gluing surfaces of the stabilizer.

IMPORTANT Because the stabilizer has to slide in place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabilizer. This will

prevent the epoxy from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabilizer when you slide it into place.

❑ Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the

epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place until the epoxy has fully cured.

❑ After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps

between the stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength. Again, before the epoxy sets up, remove any excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

Step 3: Aligning & Installing the Vertical Stabilizer

❑ Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical stabilizer

and set them aside for now.

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into its mounting slot.

To align it properly, the stabilizer should be even with the back edge of the fuselage and it should be pushed down firmly. The dorsal fin should also be aligned with the middle of the fuselage.

❑ Using a builder's triangle, check to make sure that the

vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

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❑ While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it

meets the top of the fuselage.

❑ Carefully draw an outline of the vertical stabilizer and the dorsal fin onto the top of the fuselage.

❑ Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, carefully

cut away and remove the covering material from below the lines you drew on the stabilizer. Also, remove any covering material from the base of the stabilizer and dorsal fin, too.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove

the covering material from inside the outline you drew on top of the fuselage.

❑ Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of both the stabilizer and the stabilizer mounting

slot in the top of the fuselage. Apply epoxy inside the outline you drew on top of the fuselage and to the bottom of the dorsal fin, too.

❑ Push the stabilizer down into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the

epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place until the epoxy has fully cured.

SECTION 8: CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (21) C/A Style Hinges

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Hinging the Ailerons

For flutter-free control surfaces it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This includes both having a tight hinge gap and using plenty of thin C/A glue.

❑ (1) Center-Flap

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Paper Towels

❑ Center each of the hinges within its precut slot in both

ailerons. If you can't push the hinge in halfway, carefully cut the slot deeper using a modeling knife.

❑ Carefully glue each hinge into place using 5-6 drops of

thin C/A on each side of the hinge. Do not use thick C/A or

epoxy. Use only thin C/A for proper adhesion.

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If any C/A gets onto the aileron, it can be removed

☞

promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of C/A Debonder.

❑ Working with one aileron and wing panel for now, slide the aileron and its hinges into the precut hinge slots in the

trailing edge of the wing panel, making sure that the leading edge of the aileron is pushed firmly up against the trailing edge of the wing panel and that the outer end of the aileron does not rub against the wing tip.

❑ While holding the aileron tight against the wing panel,

pivot the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing panel over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line using

☞

C/A Debonder.

❑ Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the

aileron up and down to free up the hinges.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron.

IMPORTANT After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp each aileron and pull on it like you are trying to pull out the

hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

Step 2: Hinging the Center-Flap, Elevator Halves & Rudder

❑ Hinge the center-flap, elevator halves and rudder using the same techniques as hinging the ailerons. The center-flap

is hinged using four hinges and the elevator halves and the rudder each use three hinges. When hinging the center-flap, the outer ends of the center-flap should be equally spaced between the inside edges of the ailerons. When hinging the elevator halves and the rudder, the outer ends of the control surfaces should not rub against the stabilizers. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the control surfaces and the center-flap to check the integrity of the hinges.

SECTION 9: MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Prebent Main Gear Wires ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (6) Nylon Landing Gear Straps

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

Step 1: Installing the Landing Gear Wires

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut landing gear mounting slot in

the bottom of each wing half. Each slot is 4-1/8" long and 1/8" wide.

❑ (2) 4mm Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) 4mm Wheel Collars w/Set Screws ❑ (12) 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

The slots are located 5" out from the wing centerline and 5-1/2" back from the leading edge.

☞

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❑ Insert the 90º bend in one main gear wire into the

predrilled hole in one landing gear mounting slot.

❑ Push the landing gear wire firmly down into the slot.

The top of the wire should be nearly flush with the bottom

☞

of the wing.

❑ The main gear wire is held in place using three nylon landing gear straps and six 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Position

three nylon straps over the landing gear wire, equal distances from each end of the wire.

❑ While holding the nylon straps in place, use a pencil to mark the locations of the mounting screws onto the wing.

IMPORTANT Make sure the nylon straps are centered over the landing gear wire when you mark the positions of the

mounting screw holes. This will ensure the screws won't miss being installed in the hardwood landing gear mounting block.

❑ Remove the nylon straps and drill six 5/64" diameter pilot holes into the wing.

WARNING Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing.

❑ Install the landing gear straps using six 3mm x 12mm

wood screws.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the main gear wire in the other half of the wing.

Step 2: Installing the Main Gear Wheels

❑ Slide one 4mm nylon spacer onto each axle followed

by one main gear wheel.

❑ Secure each wheel into place using one 4mm wheel

collar and set screw.

IMPORTANT Before completely tightening the set screws,

double-check that the wheels spin without binding.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 10: NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Prebent Nose Gear Wire ❑ (1) Nose Gear Wheel ❑ (1) Nylon Steering Arm w/Set Screw

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Installing the Nose Gear Assembly

❑ (2) 4mm Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) 4mm Wheel Collars w/Set Screws ❑ (1) 18" Pushrod w/Z-Bend

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler

❑ Slide the nylon steering arm onto the nose gear wire and

align the hole in the arm with the flat spot (nearest the prebent coil) that's ground in the front of the wire.

❑ With the steering arm positioned parallel to the axle,

install and tighten the set screw.

❑ Slide one nylon spacer up against the bottom of the

steering arm.

❑ Insert the Z-Bend in the end of the pushrod wire into the

outermost hole in the steering arm.

IMPORTANT When installing the Z-Bend, make sure that

the longer portion of the wire is toward the bottom of the steering arm.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the steering pushrod exit hole in the

bottom of the fuselage. The hole is located 3/4" in from the left side of the fuselage and 5/8" behind the firewall.

❑ Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire into the hole while

at the same time sliding the end of the nose gear wire into the preinstalled nylon steering block.

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IMPORTANT The coil in the nose gear wire should be

toward the back of the fuselage.

❑ With the nose gear wire pushed down completely into the steering block, pivot it back and forth several times to check

for free movement. The nose gear wire should pivot about 1/2" in each direction without binding.

IMPORTANT To allow the nose gear wire to pivot smoothly, you may need to make a shallow bend in the pushrod wire

where it exits the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ With the nose gear wire pushed firmly against the steering

block, install the wheel collar and set screw onto the nose gear wire to secure the assembly into place.

IMPORTANT Before tightening the set screw, make sure

that the wheel collar is positioned so that the set screw can be tightened against the precut flat spot on the front of the wire.

Step 2: Installing the Nose Gear Wheel

❑ Slide one nylon spacer onto the axle followed by the wheel.

❑ Secure the wheel into place using one wheel collar and set screw.

IMPORTANT Before completely tightening the set screw, double-check that the wheel spins without binding.

SECTION 11: ENGINE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) 4mm x 20mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) 4mm Blind Nuts ❑ (4) 4mm x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Electric Drill

Step 1: Aligning the Engine Mounting Beams

The references in the next few procedures are taken from the consideration that you are looking at the front of the airplane with the airplane right-side up. The engine will be mounted on its side.

❑ (4) 4mm Lock Nuts

❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Wood Screws

❑ (12) 4mm Flat Washers

❑ 3/32" & 11/64" Drill Bits

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully measure and draw a vertical centerline on the firewall.

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❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure 2-7/8" up from the

bottom of the firewall and draw a horizontal line. This line

will be referred to as the "horizontal thrust line."

❑ Measure 1/4" to the right of the vertical centerline and

draw a second vertical line parallel to it.

This second vertical line will be referred to as the "vertical

☞

thrust line."

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and draw a vertical

line 1" to the right of the vertical thrust line.

❑ Measure and draw a vertical line 5/8" to the left of the

vertical thrust line.

IMPORTANT Do not measure from the centerline. Measure

from the vertical thrust line.

❑ Temporarily glue the two engine mounting beams to your

engine's mounting lugs using a couple of drops of thick C/A.

The location of the engine is not important at this time.

☞

It's more important that the beams are square to the mounting lugs.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance between the holes in the two engine mounting beams. As an example, for the

Magnum XL .61ARNV engine used in this model, the distance between the holes in the two beams is 2-1/8". Your measurement may differ if you are using a different size engine. It depends on the width of the engine's crankcase.

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❑ Divide the measurement found in the previous procedure

in half.

❑ Measure this resulting distance and draw one horizontal

line above and one below the horizontal thrust line.

As an example, if using the Magnum XL .61ARNV, you

☞

would draw the two lines 1-1/16" above and 1-1/16" below the horizontal thrust line.

Step 2: Installing the Engine Mounting Beams

❑ Using a drill with an 11/64" diameter drill bit, drill a hole through the firewall at each of the four intersecting lines.

❑ Remove your engine from the mounting beams and

install them to the firewall using four 4mm x 20mm socketcap screws, four 4mm flat washers and four 4mm blind nuts. Tighten the screws firmly to draw the blind nuts into the back of the firewall.

We suggest applying threadlocker to the screws to

☞

prevent them from coming loose during flight.

IMPORTANT So the upper engine mounting beam will fit properly, you may need to cut away a portion of the balsa

stringer from the top of the firewall.

Step 3: Aligning and Installing the Engine

❑ Slide the spinner backplate onto your engine and secure

it into place using your engine's prop washer and nut.

❑ Set the engine onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance from the firewall to

the back of the spinner backplate. Adjust the depth of the engine so the measurement is 5".

❑ Using a pencil, mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the mounting beams. Remove the engine

and drill 3/32" diameter pilot holes through the beams at the marks you drew.

Be careful to drill the holes straight down and not at an angle.

☞

❑ Carefully enlarge the pilot holes using an 11/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the engine using four 4mm x 25mm socket-cap screws, eight 4mm flat washers and four 4mm lock nuts.

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SECTION 12: FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 360cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors

Step 1: Assembling the Rubber Stopper

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully smooth and deburr each end of the two aluminum tubes. This will prevent the fuel

tubing from being accidentally cut when it is installed later.

❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper.

Slide the large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance that the two aluminum

tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly. This distance should be 3/8". If it is not, adjust the tubes by pushing them forward or backward until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminum tubes up at a 45º angle, being careful not to "kink" the tubing as you

bend it.

When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the top of the vent tube (the tube you just bent) should rest just

☞

inside the bubble in the top of the tank.

❑ Secure one end of the silicon fuel tubing onto the end of

the fuel pick-up "clunk."

❑ Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the fuel pick-up attached,

onto the end of the aluminum fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). While holding the aluminum tube in place, adjust the length of the silicon tubing until the fuel pick-up is 4" back from the rear of the stopper assembly.

❑ Push the 3mm x 20mm machine screw through the stopper assembly, from the front, and partially thread it into the

small diameter metal backplate.

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Step 2: Installing the Stopper Assembly

❑ Carefully push the stopper assembly into the molded hole in the front of the fuel tank. Gently rotate the stopper

assembly until the aluminum vent tube rests just inside the bubble in the top of the tank.

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold the fuel tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the inside

☞

of the tank.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine

screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank opening.

WARNING Do not overtighten the screw. This could cause

the front of the fuel tank to split.

❑ With the stopper assembly in place, double-check to make sure the fuel pick-up can move freely inside the tank.

Ideally, the fuel pick-up should be about 1/4" in front of the back of the tank.

Step 3: Installing the Fuel Tank Assembly

❑ Cut two pieces of silicon fuel tubing to a length of 8" and install them onto the aluminum tubes at the front of the tank.

For your convenience, we suggest marking the ends of the tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them

☞

when it comes time to connect them to the engine later on.

❑ Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making

sure that the stopper assembly lines up with, and is pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall. When aligned properly, the fuel tank should be pushed forward as far as possible and the back of the fuel tank should rest on the plywood fuel tank support.

IMPORTANT Make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of the fuselage. The top of the fuel tank has the

molded bubble in it.

❑ Cut and install several pieces of foam rubber between

the top of the fuel tank and the top of the fuselage to wedge the back of the fuel tank securely into place. Alternately, you could use silicon adhesive to glue the back of the fuel tank to the plywood tank support.

Make sure the foam will not interfere with installation of

☞

the throttle pushrod wire. The throttle pushrod wire will pass between the side of the fuel tank and the forward bulkhead.

IMPORTANT Double-check that the fuel tank is held securely in place. You don't want it to come loose during flight!

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SECTION 13: SERVO INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Plywood Center-Flap Servo Tray

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

Step 1: Installing the Elevator, Rudder/Steering & Throttle Servos

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator, rudder/steering and throttle servos, making sure to

install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Pencil ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Install the throttle, elevator and rudder/steering servos

into the servo tray, making sure that the servo output shafts are orientated as shown.

To make it easier to install the servo mounting screws,

☞

first drill 1/16" pilot holes through the servo tray.

Step 2: Installing the Aileron Servos

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your two aileron servos, making sure to install the collets with the

flanges toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Plug one 12" servo extension onto each of your aileron

servo leads.

❑ To prevent the servo leads from pulling apart during

assembly, or worse, during flight, secure the plugs together using a short piece of heat-shrink tubing.

If you don't want to use heat-shrink tubing, wrapping the

☞

plugs with masking tape works well, too.

❑ Cut away and remove the covering material from over the center-flap servo mounting hole in the top of the right wing

half. The center of the hole is located 5" in front of the center-flap hinge line and 3/4" out from the centerline of the wing.

The center-flap servo mounting hole also serves as the exit hole for both aileron extension leads.

☞

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❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut aileron servo mounting holes in

the wing. One hole is located in each half of the wing, 16-1/2" out from the centerline of the wing and 4" in front of the aileron hinge line.

❑ Pull the servo leads through the precut tunnels in each

wing half using the lengths of string preinstalled in the wing.

❑ Pull both servo leads out through the center-flap servo

mounting hole and install the servos, making sure that the servo output shaft is toward the trailing edge of the wing.

To make it easier to install the servo mounting screws,

☞

first drill 1/16" pilot holes through the servo rails. Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing.

Step 3: Installing the Center-Flap Servo

If you decide not to make the center-flap assembly functional, you should still install the plywood servo tray onto the wing; just don't install the servo. The center-flap pushrod assembly will be locked to the servo tray so that the center-flap won't move. This is convenient, because if you ever decide to make the center-flap functional later on, it will be easy to install the servo, rebend the pushrod assembly and attach it to the servo arm.

❑ Center the servo tray over the cutout in the top of the wing.

❑ While holding the servo tray in place, trace around it

using a pencil.

IMPORTANT The precut notches in the servo tray should

be toward the trailing edge of the wing.

❑ Remove the servo tray. Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from within the outline

you drew.

❑ Glue the servo tray into place using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy using a paper

towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your

center-flap servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Install the center-flap servo into the servo tray, making

sure that the servo output shaft is toward the trailing edge of the wing.

IMPORTANT The two aileron servo leads and the center-flap

servo lead come out of the top of the wing between the sides of the servo and the two precut notches in the servo tray.

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SECTION 14: THROTTLE LINKAGE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 18" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers

Step 1: Installing the Throttle Pushrod Wire

❑ Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the

throttle arm.

❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Slide the pushrod wire through the predrilled hole in the

firewall and reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine.

So that the pushrod wire lines up with the throttle arm

☞

and won't hit your muffler when it's installed later, you will have to make a bend in the pushrod wire.

Step 2: Installing the Adjustable Servo Connector

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the third hole out from the center of the servo

arm using a 5/64" drill bit.

❑ Install the adjustable servo connector into the servo arm.

IMPORTANT When threading on the connector nut, don't

tighten the nut completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding.

❑ To prevent the connector nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it. Allow the C/A to dry before

proceeding.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the throttle servo lead (forward-most servo) into the receiver. Check to ensure

that the throttle servo output shaft is rotating in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick is moved forward, from the idle to the full throttle position, the servo output shaft should rotate clockwise. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter.

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❑ Position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter at their lowest positions. Slide the

adjustable servo connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

❑ After making sure that the carburetor is in the fully closed

position, angle the servo horn back about 45º from center and attach it to the servo output shaft. The servo connector should be facing the side of the fuselage.

❑ While holding the carburetor barrel fully closed, install

and tighten the set screw in the top of the adjustable servo connector.

❑ Use wire cutters to cut away and remove the excess

pushrod wire.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.

SECTION 15: ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 23-3/4" Nylon Pushrods ❑ (2) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wires ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (4) 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws ❑ (3) Nylon Clevises

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Adjustable Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ (1) 2mm x 20mm Machine Screw

❑ (1) Nylon Pushrod Joiner Plate

❑ (2) 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

❑ (4) 2mm Flat Washers

❑ (1) 2mm Hex Nut

❑ Electric Drill

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

Step 1: Assembling the Elevator Pushrod Tubes

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❑ Install the 2mm x 20mm machine screw, two 2mm flat

washers and the 2mm hex nut into the center hole in the nylon pushrod joiner plate. Tighten the assembly securely.

One washer should be installed at the front of the plate

☞

and one at the back (flat side) of the plate.

❑ Apply several drops of thin C/A to the nut to prevent it

from loosening. Allow the C/A to dry before proceeding.

❑ Secure both 23-3/4" long pushrod tubes to the back of

the nylon joiner plate using two 2mm x 10mm wood screws and two 2mm flat washers.

Be sure to tighten the screws firmly.

☞

❑ Apply a drop of thin C/A to each pushrod tube where it

attaches to the joiner plate. The C/A will "wick" down into the tube, locking the wood screws into place. Do not omit this procedure.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the machine screw.

IMPORTANT Make sure the clevis is threaded on completely,

so there's no chance of it coming loose.

❑ Slide the plain end of one 5-7/8" long threaded pushrod

wire into the back of each nylon pushrod tube.

❑ Thread the wires into the tubes until 1/2" of threaded wire

extends past the end of each tube.

❑ Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the ends of the

tubes. The C/A will "wick" into the tubes, securing the wires firmly in place. Do not omit this procedure.

Step 2: Installing the Elevator Pushrod Assembly

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over both elevator pushrod exit holes. One

hole is located in each side of the fuselage, 6-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 1-3/8" above the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Snap the nylon clevis (attached to the joiner plate assembly) into the third hole out from the center of the servo arm.

You will have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64" drill bit so the clevis does not bind.

☞

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the elevator servo lead into its proper slot in the receiver. Double-check that the

elevator trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

The elevator servo is the servo on the right side of the fuselage, behind the throttle servo.

☞

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❑ Slide the end of the pushrod tubes into the two nylon pushrod housings preinstalled in the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure it's

centered and points toward the middle of the fuselage.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to

secure the servo horn into place.

Step 3: Installing the Control Horns & Clevises

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold both elevator halves centered.

❑ Place one nylon control horn onto the bottom of one

elevator half, positioning the centerline of the control horn 1-3/4" out from the side of the fuselage.

❑ Angle the control horn about 1/16" toward the fuselage

side so it will line up better with the pushrod wire, and adjust the control horn so that the clevis attachment holes are directly over the hinge line.

❑ Mark the positions of the control horn mounting screws, then remove the control horn and set it aside.

❑ Drill the holes through the elevator for the mounting screws using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two 2mm x 15mm machine screws.

Be careful not to overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the elevator.

☞

❑ With the elevator servo horn and the elevator half still

centered, thread one clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap it into the third hole out from the base of the control horn.

Hold the pushrod tube with a pair of pliers to prevent it

☞

from turning while installing the clevis.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the control horn and clevis onto the second elevator half. When finished,

double-check that when the elevator servo horn is centered, both elevator halves are centered and even with each other.

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SECTION 16: RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly ❑ (1) 23-3/4" Nylon Pushrod ❑ (2) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wires

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

Step 1: Installing the Rudder Pushrod Assembly

❑ Slide the plain end of one 5-7/8" long threaded pushrod wire into each end of the nylon pushrod tube.

❑ Thread the wires into the tube until 1/2" of threaded wire extends past the ends of the tube.

❑ Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the ends of the tube. The C/A will "wick" into the tube, securing the wires

firmly in place.

❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate ❑ (2) 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ After the C/A fully cures, thread one nylon clevis onto

one of the threaded wires.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove two arms from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Using the same techniques as with the throttle pushrod

servo horn, install an adjustable servo connector into the second hole out from the center of one servo arm.

Apply a drop of thin C/A to the connector nut to keep it

☞

from coming loose during flight.

❑ Snap the clevis (attached to the pushrod) into the third

hole out from the center of the opposite servo arm.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the left

side of the fuselage. The hole is located 6-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 3/4" above the bottom of the fuselage.

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❑ Connect your radio system and plug the rudder servo lead into its proper slot in the receiver. Double-check that the

rudder trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Slide the end of the pushrod into the preinstalled pushrod

housing, then slide the adjustable servo connector over the end of the steering pushrod wire.

❑ Install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure it's

centered.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to

secure the servo horn into place.

❑ With the rudder servo horn centered, carefully center the nose wheel. When satisfied with the alignment, install and

tighten the set screw into the servo connector to hold the steering pushrod wire securely in place. Cut away the excess wire using a pair of wire cutters.

Step 2: Installing the Control Horn & Clevis

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder centered.

❑ Position the nylon control horn onto the left side of the

rudder, aligning the centerline of the control horn with the pushrod wire. The centerline of the control horn should be approximately 1" up from the bottom of the rudder.

❑ Adjust the control horn so that it is level with the pushrod

wire and the clevis attachment holes are over the hinge line.

The base of the control horn should not be parallel to the

☞

hinge line.

❑ Mark the positions of the control horn mounting screws, then remove the control horn and set it aside.

❑ Drill the holes through the rudder for the mounting screws using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two 2mm x 15mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ With the rudder servo horn and rudder still centered,

thread one clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap it into the fourth hole out from the base of the control horn.

Hold the pushrod tube with a pair of pliers to prevent it

☞

from turning while installing the clevis.

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

SECTION 17: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 3-1/8" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (4) 2mm x 30mm Machine Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

Step 1: Installing the Aileron Pushrod Wires

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the fourth hole out from the center of the servo arm using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Install the 90º bend in one 3-1/8" long pushrod wire into

the hole that you just enlarged, using the snap keeper provided. When installing the snap keeper, make sure it "snaps" firmly into place over the pushrod wire.

The pushrod wire should be on top of the servo arm.

☞

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the aileron servo lead into its proper slot in the receiver. Double-check that the

aileron trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Install the servo arm assembly making sure that the

servo arm is centered and points toward the wing tip.

❑ Install and tighten the servo arm retaining screw.

Step 2: Installing the Control Horn & Clevis

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the aileron centered.

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❑ Mount the control horn to the aileron, directly behind the

pushrod wire, using two 2mm x 30mm machine screws. Make sure that the control horn is parallel to the hinge line and that the clevis attachment holes are over the hinge line.

The centerline of the control horn should be approximately

☞

7-1/4" out from the inside edge of the aileron.

❑ Thread one clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap it into

the fourth hole out from the base of the control horn.

❑ Repeat the previous steps to install the second aileron

pushrod assembly on the opposite wing panel.

SECTION 18: CENTER-FLAP CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate (small) ❑ (2) 2mm x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (1) 5-7/8" Threaded Pushrod Wire

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

Step 1: Installing the Control horn

❑ (1) Nylon Clevis

❑ (1) Nylon 90º Snap Keeper

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ Masking Tape

❑ Install the control horn on the centerline of the center-

flap, making sure that the base of the control horn is parallel to the hinge line and that the clevis attachment holes are lined up over the hinge line.

IMPORTANT Install the clevis on the top of the center-flap

and make sure you are installing the small clevis. If you install one of the taller clevises, the clevis will hit the wing mounting block with the wing is installed.

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Step 2: Installing the Pushrod Assembly

❑ Thread the nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap

it into the outermost hole in the control horn.

IMPORTANT If you don't plan on making the center-flap operable, please skip ahead to the photo & procedure at the top

of the next page.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the fifth hole out from the center of the servo arm using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the center-flap servo lead into the receiver. Check to ensure that the servo

output shaft is rotating in the correct direction. When you move the flap switch on your transmitter into the down position, the servo output shaft should rotate counter-clockwise. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter.

❑ Use several pieces of masking tape to hold the center-flap in the neutral position.

❑ With the center-flap servo in the "up" position, install the

servo horn onto the servo, making sure it's angled forward about 30º.

❑ With the center-flap in neutral, use a pencil to mark where

the pushrod wire crosses the hole that you enlarged in the servo arm.

❑ Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the pushrod wire

down at a 90º angle at the mark you drew. Cut off the excess, leaving 5/16" of wire beyond the bend.

❑ Secure the pushrod wire to the servo arm using the

nylon 90º snap keeper.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw.

IMPORTANT You should double-check that the center-flap is aligned properly after mounting the wing to the fuselage.

With the wing mounted to the fuselage, the top of the center-flap should be firmly up against the wing saddle. If it's not, remove the wing and make adjustments to the clevis until you're satisfied with the alignment.

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❑ If you don't want to utilize the center-flap assembly, you

should make a 90º bend in the end of the pushrod wire and secure it to a servo arm using the nylon 90º snap keeper.

❑ Double-check that the center-flap is neutral, then secure

the servo arm to the top of the plywood servo tray using a couple of small wood screws. This technique will lock the center-flap into position very securely.

IMPORTANT You should double-check that the center-flap is aligned properly after mounting the wing to the fuselage.

SECTION 19: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Prepainted Molded Fiberglass Cowling ❑ (1) Clear Molded Canopy ❑ (1) Spinner Assembly w/Wood Screws ❑ (4) 3mm x 10mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Promax Canopy Scissors ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" & 1/8" Drill Bits

❑ (4) 3mm Flat Washers

❑ (1) Decal Set

❑ (1) Adhesive Striping Tape

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum

❑ Ruler

❑ Pencil

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Masking Tape

Step 1: Aligning the Cowling

❑ Remove the needle valve and muffler assembly from your engine.

❑ Using the same technique as in the procedure above, follow the molded scribe lines to cut out the bottom of the

cowling for nose gear clearance.

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❑ Using a rotary tool with a cutting disc and a sanding

drum, follow the molded scribe lines and cut out the right side of the cowling for engine clearance. Work slowly, checking the fit often so you don't remove too much of the cowling or damage it.

❑ Slide the cowling over the engine and onto the fuselage.

❑ With the cowling temporarily in place, secure the spinner

backplate onto the engine's crankshaft.

❑ Line up the front of the cowling using the backplate as

your guide. When aligned properly, the cowl ring should be centered with the spinner backplate and there should be about a 1/16" - 3/32" gap between the two.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use pieces of masking tape to hold the cowling securely in place and aligned.

IMPORTANT The sides and top of the cowling will overlap the fuselage. The bottom of the cowling should be flush with

the front of the firewall.

Step 2: Installing the Cowling

❑ With the cowling held firmly in alignment, drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes into the cowling and through the fuselage for the four wood screws. Locate two holes on each side of the cowling, 1/4" in front of the back edge of the cowling. One hole should be 1/2" up from the bottom, and the other hole should be 1/2" down from the top.

❑ Remove the cowling and enlarge only the holes in the cowling using a 1/8" drill bit.

Enlarging the holes will prevent the fiberglass from being cracked when you install the wood screws.

☞

❑ To strengthen the holes in the fuselage that the wood screws will thread into, carefully apply a couple of drops of thin

C/A into the holes and let it dry completely before installing the cowling.

❑ At this time you should make the rest of the cutouts in the cowling for your engine. These include cutouts for the high

and low speed needle valves and the muffler assembly.

❑ When you're satisfied with the fit and alignment, slide the cowling back into place. Install the cowling using four

3mm x 10mm wood screws and four 3mm flat washers. Tighten the screws firmly to secure the cowling into place.

Step 3: Installing the Spinner Assembly & Engine Accessories

❑ Install the needle valve and muffler assembly onto your engine, then cut to length and install the fuel lines to the

muffler pressure nipple and the carburetor (or remote needle valve).

❑ Install the spinner backplate and the propeller onto your engine and tighten the propeller nut firmly.

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❑ Test-fit the spinner cone over the propeller. Depending on the size of the propeller you are using, the spinner cone

may not fit over it. If this is the case, use a modeling knife to very carefully enlarge the two cutouts in the spinner cone.

It is important that the spinner cone not touch any part of the propeller when it is in place.

☞

❑ When satisfied with the fit, install the spinner cone using the two wood screws provided.

Step 4: Installing the Canopy

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the canopy along the molded scribe lines.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully sand the edges of the canopy smooth and straight.

Be careful not to scratch the surface of the canopy when sanding its edges.

☞

❑ Set the canopy onto the fuselage and align it. The canopy

should be centered over the middle of the fuselage and the front edge of the canopy should be about 3" behind the back edge of the cowling.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, remove the canopy and carefully apply a thin bead of Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue

around the edges of the canopy.

❑ Set the canopy back into place and realign it. Use pieces of masking tape to hold the edges of the canopy firmly in

place and remove any excess adhesive using a paper towel soaked with water.

❑ After the glue has fully cured, carefully cut to length and apply striping tape around the base of the canopy, then use

the extra striping tape to simulate the canopy frame.

Step 5: Installing the Receiver & Battery

We don't suggest permanently installing the receiver and battery until you have balanced the airplane. How the airplane initially balances will determine where you need to mount the receiver and battery.

❑ Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold

the foam in place.

Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.

☞

❑ After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery, mount them into the fuselage using your favorite

method. Strips of Velcro® work well or sandwich them in place using a couple of scraps of balsa wood glued between the fuselage sides. We mounted the receiver and the battery to the fuselage floor behind the forward bulkhead.

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❑ After you have the receiver installed, drill a 5/64" hole in

the fuselage for the antenna to exit. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully make an antenna mount

out of an extra servo horn. Remove one of the arms and cut it into the shape shown.

❑ Use the modified servo arm and a rubber band to secure

the end of the antenna to the top of the vertical stabilizer.

❑ Mount the switch into the precut switch mount in the fuselage side.

❑ Connect the battery lead to the switch and the switch and servo leads to the receiver.

SECTION 20: BALANCING THE KWIK FLY II ARF

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Ruler

IMPORTANT It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose control and crash!

❑ Masking Tape

Center of Gravity Location:

3-3/4" to 4-3/4" back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.

WARNING This is the recommended C.G. range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C.G. in the middle of the

range (4-1/4"), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C.G. be located any farther back than 4-3/4".

Always balance the airplane with the fuel tank empty.

☞

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage. Apply two short pieces of masking tape onto the top of the wing, 4-1/4" back from

the leading edge, measured at the fuselage sides.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down and place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose

of the airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver far enough forward to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C.G. location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C.G. can be moved fore or

☞

aft within the C.G. range to change the flight performance. Moving the C.G. back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C.G. forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

Do not fly the airplane beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

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SECTION 21: LATERAL BALANCING THE KWIK FLY II ARF

Lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter in the air. It is strongly

☞

recommended.

❑ With the airplane right-side up, tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and loop another piece of string around the

fuselage right in front of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one

side of the wing drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of the lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible.

❑ Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should stay

level when you lift the airplane.

SECTION 22: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the Kwik Fly II using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 3/8" Up 3/8" Down

Elevator: 3/8" Up 3/8" Down

Rudder: 1" Right 1" Left

When measuring the control throws, measure from the widest point of the control surfaces.

☞

VERY IMPORTANT After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest cutting 1/4" lengths of the clear tubing provided and sliding one piece over each clevis. The tubing will prevent the clevises from popping open during flight.

Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the Aerobatic Flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do aerobatics with ease.

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Elevator: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Rudder: 1-1/2" Right 1-1/2" Left

We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended Aerobatic Flying settings unless you are a very proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.

SETTING UP THE CENTER-FLAP

The center-flap should deflect down a maximum of 1/2". This can be set on either a rotary knob or on a 3-way switch.

If the airplane balloons up after deploying the center-flap, you are at too high a flight speed. To minimize this, either

☞

deploy the center flap at a lower flight speed or, if you have a programmable radio, use it to mix a couple of degrees of down elevator when the center-flap is deployed.

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SECTION 23: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

●

Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

●

Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

●

Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.

●

Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured in the fuselage. There's nothing worse than the battery pack coming loose during a violent aerobatic maneuver.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Make sure that you've installed 1/4" long pieces of clear tubing over the clevises to prevent any chance of them opening during flight.

●

If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your first few flights.

●

Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

●

Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead

to engine and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power.

The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.

●

Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

●

Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-of-way to full-scale aircraft.

●

When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

●

While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately.

●

You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model.

●

You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

●

You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

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SECTION 24: FLYING THE KWIK FLY II ARF

The Kwik Fly II ARF is designed for those pilots who are comfortable flying a trainer airplane and who might also have a few flights on a low-wing sport model. It is not a basic trainer. If you do not feel comfortable about test-flying the airplane, don't hesitate to ask someone more experienced for help.

When set up for test-flying, the Kwik Fly II is like flying a low-wing sport-trainer. It's a nimble flyer that has a low wing loading. This makes it predictable during slow flight and landing. Its long tail moment and generous flying surfaces result in an airplane that is very forgiving during flight, yet will do most aerobatics you want to perform. These traits make the Kwik Fly II a great aerobatic trainer for someone just learning aerobatics or for the seasoned pilot who wants to brush up on his or her skills.

WARNING To prevent any chance of control surface flutter, always reduce engine power during down-leg maneuvers. Never fly the airplane at full throttle in a downward attitude. Doing so can over-speed the airplane and cause control surface flutter, which can quickly lead to airframe damage and/or a crash.

TAKE-OFF

Because the Kwik Fly II has tricycle landing gear and a wide gear stance, ground handling is very solid. Thanks to the builtin right thrust, the takeoff roll should require very little right-stick input to keep the airplane tracking straight. If you find that the airplane is "squirrely" on the ground, we suggest reducing the amount of throw in the nose gear. The nose gear should rotate no more than 3/8" - 1/2" in each direction.

During the takeoff roll, it's important to let the airplane get up to flying speed before lifting off the ground. Lifting the airplane off the ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall and crash. You should allow the airplane to gain sufficient speed, then gently pull the airplane off the ground and into a shallow climb.

IN THE AIR

In the air the Kwik Fly II is very smooth and docile and exhibits a solid "feel." With the control throws set to the "Test-Flying" settings, the airplane will fly crisply with good control authority, but not so much as to get you into trouble. This is ideal for those learning basic aerobatics.

Setting the control throws to the "Aerobatic Flying" settings opens up a whole new dimension to the airplane. With these settings the airplane becomes responsive in most all attitudes, even at low rates of speed. With these settings, the airplane will perform just about any aerobatic maneuver you can dish out.

We suggest that if you use the "Aerobatic Flying" settings, you make these your "high rates" and make the "Test-Flying" settings your "low rates." This way, for take-off, general flying and landing you can use low rates, and for aerobatic flying you can flip to high rates.

LANDING

The beauty about the Kwik Fly II is its wide flight envelope. This means that even though the airplane is capable of great aerobatics, the airplane feels just as at home flying slowly. This makes for an airplane that is easy to land. And with the included center-flap, spot landings are easily done, too.

Deploy the center-flap to increase wing lift and descent rate. Using the center-flap will also allow the airplane to land even slower. If you deploy the center-flap at too high an airspeed, the airplane will have a tendency to balloon upwards. To counteract this, either deploy the center-flap at a lower airspeed or, if you have a programmable radio system, mix a couple of degrees of down elevator when the center-flap deploys.

On your initial upwind leg, reduce power and allow the airplane to begin slowing down. Follow your normal landing procedure, allowing the airplane to gradually lose altitude and speed. When turning onto final approach the airplane should have a slightly nose-down attitude and you should be carrying a small amount of power to control your descent.

Just before touch-down, reduce power to idle and let the airplane settle onto the main gear. At this point, use the elevator to hold the nose gear off the ground. As the airplane rolls out and loses speed, the nose gear will drop onto the ground. As always, when landing be careful not to over-control. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which don't make for good landings.

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SECTION 25: KWIK FLY II TRIMMING CHART

After you have test-flown and done the initial trim changes to the airplane, use this trimming chart to begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a straighter and truer flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and random

maneuvers

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers A) Controls are too sensitive or airplane

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight and level flight,

quickly chop the throttle for a short distance

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll to a 45º

bank and neutralize the controls

Yaw** Into the wind, perform inside

loops using only elevator. Repeat test performing outside loops from an inverted entry

Try for hands-off straight and level flight Readjust linkages so the transmitter trim

feels "jerky"

B) Controls are not sensitive enough or

airplane feels "mushy"

A) Airplane continues in a level attitude

for a short distance

B) Airplane pitches nose up

C) Airplane pitches nose down

A) Airplane continues in the bank for a

short distance

B) Nose pitches up

C) Nose pitches down

A) Wing is level throughout

B) Airplane yaws to right in both inside

and outside loops

C) Airplane yaws to left in both inside and

outside loops

D) Airplane yaws to the right in inside

loops and yaws to the left in outside loops

E) Airplane yaws to the left in inside loops

and yaws to the right in outside loops

levers are centered

If A) Adjust linkages to reduce control

throws

If B) Adjust linkages to increase control

throws

If A) Engine thrust angle is correct

If B) Decrease engine down thrust

If C) Increase engine down thrust

If A) Center of gravity is correct

If B) Add nose weight

If C) Remove nose weight or add tail weight

If A) Trim settings are correct

If B) Add left rudder trim

If C) Add right rudder trim

If D) Add left aileron trim

If E) Add right aileron trim

Lateral Balance** Into the wind, perform tight inside

Aileron Control System With the wing level, pull to a

*Engine thrust angle and center of gravity interact. Check both. **Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Make certain both elevator halves are even with each other and

that they both produce the same amount of control deflection throughout the complete deflection range. Right and left references are as if you were in the cockpit.

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

loops using only elevator

vertical climb and neutralize the controls

A) Wing is level and airplane falls to

either side

B) Airplane falls off to the left. Worsens

as loops tighten

C) Airplane falls off to the right. Worsens

as loops tighten

A) Climb continues along the same path

B) Nose tends to go toward an inside loop

C) Nose tends to go toward an outside loop

If A) Lateral balance is correct

If B) Add weight to right wing tip

If C) Add weight to left wing tip

If A) Trim settings are correct

If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly

If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Global Kwik Fly II ARF # 125822

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Price ❑ Type of Model ❑ Box Art ❑ Recommendation ❑ Other ❑ Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

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6) Were any of the kit parts:

❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?

❑ Yes ❑ No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

9) What did you like least about this kit?

❑ Assembly Manual ❑ Parts Fit ❑ Hardware Supplied ❑ Price ❑ Other

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain.

❑ Yes ❑ No

____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers?

❑ Better ❑ As Good

What is Your Age Group:

❑ 10 & Under ❑ 11 - 20 ❑ 21 - 30 ❑ 31 - 40 ❑ 41 - 50 ❑ 51 - 60 ❑ 61 - 70 ❑ 71 +

How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby?

❑ Less than 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 11 - 15 ❑ 16 - 20 ❑ 20 or More

How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year?

❑ 0 - 1 ❑ 2 - 4 ❑ 5 - 7 ❑ 8 - 10 ❑ 10 or More

Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ______________________

_____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________

Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net

_____________________________ _____________________________ _____________________________

(Return Address Here)

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Global Hobby Distributors

Attn: Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley CA 92728-8610

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Post Office will

not deliver

without proper

postage

Visit our website at http://www.globalhobby.com or for Customer Service at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

Global Hobby Kwik Fly II ARF Instructions For Final Assembly

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual