This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your
airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control
system and any other components purchased separately.
FOR YOUR INFORMATION To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced,
knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you
contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
OUR GUARANTEE
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component
parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from
the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for purchasing the Global Kwik Fly II ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new
airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success
the first time around!
Global Kwik Fly II ARF Features:
●
Completely Prebuilt from Balsa, Light Plywood and Foam
●
Classic, Great-Flying Design
●
Expertly Covered with Real Heat-Shrink, Iron-On Covering Material
●
Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling
●
Durable Heavy-Duty Landing Gear Wires
●
Center-Flap Option for Extra-Slow Landings
●
Clear Molded Canopy
●
All Hardware Included - Wheels, Fuel Tank, Engine Mount, Pushrods, Etc.
●
Fast & Easy Assembly - Over 60 High-Resolution Digital Photos Guide You
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new airplane in the
least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn
tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them
before beginning assembly.
●
Please read through each step before beginning
assembly. You should find the layout very complete
and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
that you might expect.
●
There are check boxes next to each step. After you
complete a step, check off the box. This will help
prevent you from losing your place.
●
Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,
both to protect the table and to protect the parts.
●
Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the
small parts in after you open the accessory bags.
●
We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but
take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,
strong and great flying airplane.
●
If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that
this is an important point or an assembly hint.
Visit Our Website
http://globalservices.globalhobby.com
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly, please
To serve your needs better, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email
address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech
notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important
information about your product as it becomes available.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS
Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,
trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net
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SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new
Global Kwik Fly II ARF. These suggestions are not set in stone, but they should provide you with a good starting point.
What Engine Should I Use?
The Kwik Fly II will fly great on a variety of engines, so which engine you choose really depends on how you want to fly the
airplane and on personal preference. For general sport flying, a .61 two stroke or .80 four stroke would be an ideal choice.
Either of these engines will provide good overall performance and will pull the airplane through most aerobatic maneuvers
with ease. Both engines can be mounted sideways and still use their stock mufflers, although the .61 size two stroke
engine will require the use of a muffler extension so the muffler will clear the bottom of the fuselage.
For all-out aerobatics a .91 two stroke or .91 four stroke would be a great choice. Either of these engines will provide an
excellent power-to-weight ratio, resulting in nearly unlimited vertical performance. Both engines can be mounted sideways
and still use their stock mufflers, although the .91 size two stroke will require the use of a muffler extension so the muffler
will clear the bottom of the fuselage.
What Servos Should I Use?
There really is no reason to go overboard on high-priced, ultra-precision servos. A good, standard, dual ball bearing servo
with a minimum of 40 ounces of torque will work well on the flight-control surfaces and a standard bushing servo will be
good for use on the throttle and the center-flap.
Do I Need To Use the Center-Flap?
The center-flap is optional, so, no, you don't need to use it. If you decide you want to make it functional you will need one
extra standard servo and a 5 channel radio control system to operate it. Hardware is included to hinge the center-flap and
connect it to the servo. If you choose not to use the center-flap, it can be locked into place using the hardware included.
What Else Do I Need?
The Kwik Fly II includes all of the hardware you'll need to finish the airplane. You will need some basic building materials,
such as adhesives, protective foam rubber for your radio gear and fuel tubing. You will also need a couple of 12" servo
extensions and a Y-Harness to connect the two separate aileron servos. We've provided a comprehensive list below of the
items we used on the airplane shown in this instruction manual.
Here's What We Used to Finish Our Kwik Fly II ARF:
QTY. 1210803Magnum XL .61ARNV 2-Stroke Engine
QTY. 1280153Magnum Muffler Extension for XL .61ARNV Engine
QTY. 5Cirrus Ball Bearing Standard Servos
QTY. 1Cirrus Ball Bearing Standard Servo (Optional for Center-Flap Assembly)
QTY. 2444713Cirrus 12" Servo Extension Cord
QTY. 1444728Cirrus Y-Harness
QTY. 1608660APC 12 x 6 Composite Propeller
QTY. 1115493Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug
QTY. 1115923Global XX Silicon Fuel Tubing
QTY. 1868638Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber
QTY. 1592634Williams Bros. Scale Sportsman Pilot (Optional)
IMPORTANTThe part numbers listed for the Cirrus extension cords and Y-harness are compatible with Hitec and JR radio control
systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.
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SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the final assembly of your Kwik Fly II ARF. We suggest
having these items on-hand before beginning assembly.
❑Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
❑Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545
❑Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162
❑# 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑# 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑3mm Hex Wrench
❑Adjustable Wrench
❑Wire Cutters
❑Needle Nose Pliers
❑Excel Modeling Knife # 692801
❑Scissors
SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS
❑Electric Drill
❑Assorted Drill Bits
❑Dubro T-Pins # 567685
❑Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
❑Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum
❑Ruler
❑Pencil
❑Builder's Triangle
❑220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑Masking Tape
❑Paper Towels
❑Rubbing Alcohol
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205
We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin
assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly
and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us below:
❑(1)Length of Clear Tubing
❑(1)Decal Set
❑(1)Adhesive Striping Tape
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To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in
SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS
Global stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Global Kwik Fly II ARF. Listed below are the replacement
parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering
directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Global products, you can order directly from us at the address
shown below:
Global Services
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley CA 92708
Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236
Global Kwik Fly II ARF - Complete .................... 125822
Engine Mount Set .............................................. 120441
Hardware Set ..................................................... 120442
Fuel Tank Assembly ........................................... 120074
Decal Set ............................................................ 120443
On the Web
SECTION 5: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING
The covering material used on the Kwik Fly II ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf
paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle
or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will
need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat Sealing
Iron # 360900 is recommended.
Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:
❑Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for approximately
5 - 7 minutes.
❑After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron
slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear. You will notice that the color of the
covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back down, it will return to its normal color.
If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial down
☞
and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using
a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.
WARNING
We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct
sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and
possibly damage the clear canopy, and the fragile components of the radio system.
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net
7
SECTION 6: WING ASSEMBLY
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron
❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron
❑Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the excess
covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing
panel, leaving about 1/16" overlapped so it does not pull away.
IMPORTANT It's very important to the integrity of the wing
center section joint that you remove as much covering material
from the root ribs as possible.
❑Use a ruler and a pencil to locate and draw a vertical
centerline on each side of the hardwood wing joiner.
❑Test-fit the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should
slide easily into each panel up to the centerline you drew.
If it does not fit properly, use 220 grit sandpaper with a
☞
sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the joiner,
until you are satisfied with the fit.
8
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IMPORTANT The wing joiner is straight. There is no top
or bottom.
❑Slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner
temporarily installed (without using glue).
❑Look carefully at the center section joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.
If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding
☞
block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.
❑When satisfied with the fit, pull the wing panels apart and remove the wing joiner.
Step 2: Joining the Wing Panels
❑Apply a long strip of masking tape to the top and bottom
edges of the root rib on each wing panel.
The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting
☞
onto the wing panels when you join them.
❑Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy
inside the wing joiner box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides,
and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to its centerline. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and
rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.
❑After the epoxy has set up, test-fit both wing panels together again to double-check that they still fit together properly.
Check the leading and trailing edges, too. It's important that they be even with each other.
❑Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of
the wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire surface of BOTH root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy
to fill any gaps.
❑Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and
rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.
Step 3: Checking the Center Section Joint
❑Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center section joint. If any gaps are
present, mix a small amount of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Quickly remove any excess epoxy
using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net
covering material from over the top and bottom of the two
predrilled holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are
located 3/4" in front of the trailing edge and 1-1/4" out from
the centerline.
❑With the fuselage upside down, place the wing into the wing saddle and push the trailing edge down into place.
❑Align the predrilled holes in the wing with the preinstalled
blind nuts in the wing mounting block inside the fuselage.
Secure the wing into place using two 5mm x 50mm machine
screws and two 5mm flat washers.
Don't overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush
☞
the wing.
IMPORTANT The gap between the trailing edge of the wing and the back of the wing saddle is normal. This area will be
covered by the center-flap when it's hinged later.
Step 2: Aligning & Installing the Horizontal Stabilizer
❑Remove the elevator halves and hinges from the horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now.
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❑Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering
material from over the horizontal and vertical stabilizer
mounting slots in the back of the fuselage.
❑Using a ruler and a pencil, measure and draw a vertical
centerline across the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
❑Carefully slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot, making sure that the trailing edge of the stabilizer, at the bottom, is
even with the back edge of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT The trailing edge of the stabilizer must not extend past the back of the fuselage or the rudder won't line up
properly when it's hinged later.
❑Carefully center the stabilizer from side-to-side using the
centerline you drew as a guide. It should be centered down
the middle of the vertical stabilizer mounting slot when viewed
from the top.
❑When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing
edge of the stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.
IMPORTANT The front of the stabilizer should be able to
pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place
and aligned.
❑With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to
measure the distance between the tips of the stabilizer and
the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer until both
of these measurements are equal.
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11
❑When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of
the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the
stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.
❑With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front
of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When
aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.
If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220
☞
grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher
side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer
and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure
until you are satisfied with the alignment.
❑With the stabilizer properly aligned, use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it meets the
fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.
❑Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, carefully
cut away and remove the covering material from between the
lines you drew. Do this on both the top and the bottom.
WARNING When cutting through the covering to remove it,
cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering
itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the
stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.
❑Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to ONLY the top and bottom gluing surfaces of the stabilizer.
IMPORTANT Because the stabilizer has to slide in place through the fuselage, apply epoxy only to the stabilizer. This will
prevent the epoxy from spreading over the entire length of one half of the stabilizer when you slide it into place.
❑Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the
epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place until the
epoxy has fully cured.
❑After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps
between the stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength. Again, before the epoxy sets
up, remove any excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Step 3: Aligning & Installing the Vertical Stabilizer
❑Remove the rudder and hinges from the vertical stabilizer
and set them aside for now.
❑Push the vertical stabilizer down into its mounting slot.
To align it properly, the stabilizer should be even with the
back edge of the fuselage and it should be pushed down
firmly. The dorsal fin should also be aligned with the middle
of the fuselage.
❑Using a builder's triangle, check to make sure that the
vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.
12
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❑While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it
meets the top of the fuselage.
❑Carefully draw an outline of the vertical stabilizer and the dorsal fin onto the top of the fuselage.
❑Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, carefully
cut away and remove the covering material from below the
lines you drew on the stabilizer. Also, remove any covering
material from the base of the stabilizer and dorsal fin, too.
❑Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove
the covering material from inside the outline you drew on top
of the fuselage.
❑Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of both the stabilizer and the stabilizer mounting
slot in the top of the fuselage. Apply epoxy inside the outline you drew on top of the fuselage and to the bottom of the dorsal
fin, too.
❑Push the stabilizer down into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the
epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the stabilizer in place until the
epoxy has fully cured.
SECTION 8: CONTROL SURFACE HINGING
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (21) C/A Style Hinges
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A
❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
Step 1: Hinging the Ailerons
For flutter-free control surfaces it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This includes both having a tight
hinge gap and using plenty of thin C/A glue.
❑ (1) Center-Flap
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Paper Towels
❑Center each of the hinges within its precut slot in both
ailerons. If you can't push the hinge in halfway, carefully cut
the slot deeper using a modeling knife.
❑Carefully glue each hinge into place using 5-6 drops of
thin C/A on each side of the hinge. Do not use thick C/A or
epoxy. Use only thin C/A for proper adhesion.
Need help or have any questions? Call us at 1-714-963-0329 or send us an e-mail at service@globalhobby.net
If any C/A gets onto the aileron, it can be removed
☞
promptly using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of
C/A Debonder.
13
❑Working with one aileron and wing panel for now, slide the aileron and its hinges into the precut hinge slots in the
trailing edge of the wing panel, making sure that the leading edge of the aileron is pushed firmly up against the trailing edge
of the wing panel and that the outer end of the aileron does not rub against the wing tip.
❑While holding the aileron tight against the wing panel,
pivot the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin
C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing panel
over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.
Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line using
☞
C/A Debonder.
❑Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the
aileron up and down to free up the hinges.
❑Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron.
IMPORTANT After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp each aileron and pull on it like you are trying to pull out the
hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it
to completely cure.
Step 2: Hinging the Center-Flap, Elevator Halves & Rudder
❑Hinge the center-flap, elevator halves and rudder using the same techniques as hinging the ailerons. The center-flap
is hinged using four hinges and the elevator halves and the rudder each use three hinges. When hinging the center-flap,
the outer ends of the center-flap should be equally spaced between the inside edges of the ailerons. When hinging the
elevator halves and the rudder, the outer ends of the control surfaces should not rub against the stabilizers. Remember,
after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the control surfaces and the center-flap to check the integrity of the hinges.
SECTION 9: MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:
❑ (2) Prebent Main Gear Wires
❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels
❑ (6) Nylon Landing Gear Straps
YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Electric Drill
Step 1: Installing the Landing Gear Wires
❑Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut landing gear mounting slot in
the bottom of each wing half. Each slot is 4-1/8" long and 1/8" wide.