To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help
with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors. W e also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below.
They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
The Fokker D-VII ARF is distributed exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors
This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only
in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully
inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this
airplane, your radio control system and your engine.
2
INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing the Global Fokker D-VII ARF and welcome to the exciting world of WWI R/C
airplanes! W e are sure that you will appreciate the high quality , easy assembly and excellent flight characteristics
of the Fokker D-VII ARF.
The full size Fokker D-VII was a single seat fighter that featured fabric-covered wings with plywood ribs
and plywood leading edges. The fuselage was wire-braced steel tubing, completely fabric-covered except for
the cowling, which was sheet steel. The two most successful engines used in the Fokker D-VII were the
Mercedes 160 H.P. and the BMW 185 H.P. engines. The Fokker D-VII, designed by Reinhold Platz, was a
clean, simple-looking biplane, equipped with two Maxim 08/15 7.92mm machine guns.
The Fokker D-VIIs were so successful that, in August of 1918 alone, they shot down 565 Allied aircraft.
One thing that made the Fokker D-VII such a formidable opponent was the fact that it could hang 45 degrees on
its prop and shoot without stalling. By doing this, the Fokker D-VII could fly up under the bellies of enemy
aircraft and shoot them down. The Fokker D-VII could climb 5000 meters in 16 minutes, fly at a ceiling of
19,685 feet, and had an insurance of 90 minutes. The aircraft had an approximate top speed of 124 mph.
Now you too can feel what that was like with your own Stand-Off Scale R/C model of the Fokker D-VII.
When you open up the box, you'll notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your new
airplane. The Fokker D-VII is a complete kit. Wire Spoke wheels, fuel tank, pushrods, clevises and other
hardware are all included. The airframe is completely prebuilt and covered by master craftsmen, who take their
time to ensure that every part is straight and properly glued.
W e hope you enjoy your new Fokker D-VII ARF as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for
you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product
survey in the back of this manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We would enjoy hearing
any comments or suggestions you may have.
This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire final assembly process of your new
Fokker D-VII ARF in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly
assemble your new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some
of our recommendations below. Please read through them before going any further.
✔ Please read through each step before starting
assembly. You should find the layout very complete and simple. Our goal is to guide you through
assembly without any of the headaches and hassles
you might expect.
✔ There are check boxes next to each step. After
you complete a step, check off the box. This will
help you keep from losing your place.
✔ Cover your work table with brown paper or a
soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect
the individual parts.
If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly , please contact us at the
address below:
✔ Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to
put the small parts in after you open the accessory
bags.
✔ We're all excited to get a new airplane in the
air, but take your time. This will ensure that you
build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.
✔ If you come across this symbol , it means
that this is an important point or an assembly hint.
❑ {1} Hitec Focus 4FM Radio w/4 Servos
❑ {1} Dubro 1/4" Foam Rubber # 868638
❑ {1} Global XX-Silicon Fuel Line # 115923
❑ {1} Magnum Fueling Valve # 237500
IF YOU USE A TWO CYCLE ENGINE...
❑ {1} Williams Bros. 2-5/8" Pilot # 592659
❑ {1} Ernst External Charge Jack # 223730
❑ {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762
❑ {1} Formula-U Flat Black Paint # 586859
OPTIONAL ITEMS
❑ {1} Goldberg 1/4" Black Trim Tape # 582023
❑ {1} Magnum XL .46ARNV Engine # 210746
❑ {1} APC 11 x 6 Propeller # 608560
❑ {1} Thunderbolt R/C Long Glow Plug # 115493
IF YOU USE A FOUR CYCLE ENGINE...
❑ {1} Magnum XL .52RFS Engine # 210980
❑ {1} APC 12 x 6 Propeller # 608660
The optional Ernst Charge Jack and Cirrus On-Board
Battery Indicator are for use with Hitec and JR Radio
systems. These items are also available for use with
Futaba and Airtronics radio systems. Please check with
your retailer for availability.
❑ {1} Thunderbolt 4-Cycle Glow Plug # 115490
For a more scale appearance we recommend that you paint the aluminum wing strut mount system flat black. If you
decide to do this you should first roughen each part using fine grade sandpaper (400 grit works well) then wash the parts
in soap and warm water to remove any oil residue. Paint the individual parts before mounting them to the airplane.
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
❑ Formula-560 Canopy Glue # 339176
❑ Pacer Blue Thread Lock # 339162
❑ Wilhold Silicon Sealant # 335407
❑ Robart Incidence Meter # 561554
❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692808
❑ Magnum Tubing Bender # 237474
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977
❑ Masking Tape # 229685
❑ Electric Drill
❑ Assorted Drill Bits
❑ Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits
❑ Straight Edge Ruler
❑ Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Wire Cutters
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Scissors
❑ Pen or Pencil
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Paper T owels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ W axed Paper
❑ Machine Oil or Vaseline
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204
❑ NHP Mixing Cups # 864205
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm
The covering material used on the Fokker D-VII is a heat shrink polyester material. Because of this, it is
possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is
inherent in all types of heat shrink material. T o remove the wrinkles you will need to purchase, or borrow from a
fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.
Follow these simple steps to remove the wrinkles:
❑ 1) Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium temperature setting. Allow the iron to heat up for
approximately 5 - 7 minutes.
❑ 2) After the iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the iron to the wrinkled section of the covering. Move the iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.
You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools back
down, it will return to its normal color.
If the color layer smears from any of the seams, the temperature of the iron is too hot. Turn the tempera-
☛
ture dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any
excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of acetone.
BOTTOM WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Bottom Wing - Right & Left Halves
❑ {1} Bottom Wing Dihedral Brace (W-26)
❑ 1) Look carefully at the surface of each root rib
on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling
knife, carefully trim and remove the excess from both
of the root ribs, leaving about 1/16" of covering material overlapping so it does not pull away later.
❑ 2) Using a straight edge ruler and a pen, locate
and mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace
(W-26). Draw one vertical line, on each side of the
brace, at this location. See photo # 1 below.
Photo # 1
❑ 3) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the
plywood dihedral brace box in each wing half. The
brace should slide into each wing half up to its centerline. If it does not, remove the brace and lightly
sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained.
See photo # 2 below.
Photo # 2
Removing most of the covering from the two
☛
root ribs will expose more of the wood. This will
result in a stronger joint when the wing halves are
epoxied together later.
6
The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V".
☛
The "V" shape should face the top surface of the wing
when the brace is installed.
❑ 4) T est fit both of the wing halves together with
the dihedral brace temporarily installed (without using glue). Look carefully at the center section joint:
the wing halves should fit together tightly with few
or no gaps in the joint. See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
❑ 10) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the
exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the
second wing half, and the entire surface of both rootribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑ 11) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at both the leading and trailing edges.
Wipe away any excess epoxy, using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol, and use several pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing halves aligned until the
epoxy fully cures.
❑ 12) Once the epoxy has fully cured, doublecheck the center section joint. If any gaps are present,
mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Remove any
excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.
❑ 5) If the center section joint is not tight, remove
the wing halves and the dihedral brace, and lightly
sand the edges and tips of the brace. T est fit the wing
halves together with the dihedral brace installed again
and repeat until you are satisfied with the fit. Once
you are satisfied with the fit, remove the wing halves
and the dihedral brace.
It is important that the wing halves fit together
☛
properly. The better the fit, the stronger the center
section joint will be.
❑ 6) Following the instructions on the packaging,
mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute
Epoxy. Mix the epoxy for about 1 minute. This will
ensure that both parts are thoroughly incorporated.
❑ 7) Working with only one wing half for now,
apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral brace.
Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the
sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑ 8) Slide the dihedral brace into the wing half
up to its centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
❑ 13) Once the epoxy has fully cured, carefully
remove the masking tape from the wing.
TOP WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Top Wing - Right & Left Halves
❑ {1} Top Wing Dihedral Brace (W-25)
❑ 1) Look carefully at the surface of each root rib
on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling
knife, carefully trim and remove the excess from both
of the root ribs, leaving about 1/16" of covering material overlapping so it does not pull away later.
JOINING THE WING HALVES
❑ 9) Once the epoxy has fully cured, trial fit both
wing halves together again to double check that the
wing halves still fit together properly.
Removing most of the covering from the two
☛
root ribs will expose more of the wood. This will
result in a stronger joint when the wing halves are
epoxied together later.
7
❑ 2) Using a straight edge ruler and a pen, locate
and mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace
(W-25). Draw one vertical line, on each side of the
brace, at this location.
❑ 6) Following the instructions on the packaging,
mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute
Epoxy . Mix the epoxy for about 1 minute. This will
ensure that both parts are thoroughly incorporated.
❑ 3) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the
plywood dihedral brace box in each wing half. The
brace should slide into each wing half up to its centerline. If it does not, remove the brace and lightly
sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained.
See photo # 4 below.
Photo # 4
The dihedral brace is cut straight, so it doesn't
☛
matter which direction it is installed into the wing.
❑ 4) Test fit both of the wing halves together with
the dihedral brace temporarily installed (without using glue). Look carefully at the center section joint:
the wing halves should fit together tightly with few
or no gaps in the joint. See photo # 5 below.
Photo # 5
❑ 7) Working with only one wing half for now,
apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral brace.
Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the
sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑ 8) Slide the dihedral brace into the wing half
up to its centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
JOINING THE WING HALVES
❑ 9) Once the epoxy has fully cured, trial fit both
wing halves together again to double check that the
wing halves still fit together properly.
❑ 10) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the
exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the
second wing half, and the entire surface of both rootribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
❑ 11) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at both the leading and trailing edges.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol and use several pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing halves aligned until the
epoxy fully cures.
❑ 5) If the center section joint is not tight, remove
the wing halves and the dihedral brace, and lightly
sand the edges and tips of the brace. T est fit the wing
halves together with the dihedral brace installed again
and repeat until you are satisfied with the fit. Once
you are satisfied with the fit, remove the wing halves
and the dihedral brace.
It is important that the wing halves fit together
☛
properly. The better the fit, the stronger the center
section joint will be.
8
❑ 12) Once the epoxy has fully cured, doublecheck the center section joint. If any gaps are present,
mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Remove any
excess epoxy , using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.
❑ 13) After the epoxy has fully cured, carefully
remove the masking tape from the wing. If any residue is left from the tape, it can be removed using a
paper towel soaked with a small amount of rubbing
alcohol.
BOTTOM WING MOUNTING
PARTS REQUIRED
❑ 6) Remove the two ailerons from the wing and
set them aside for now.
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Electric Drill
❑ 5/32" & 7/32" Drill Bits
❑ Straight Edge Ruler
❑ Phillips Head Screwdriver
❑ Needle Nose Pliers
❑ Pen or Pencil
ALIGNING THE WING
❑ 1) Set the fuselage upside down in your airplane
stand and place the bottom wing into the wing saddle.
Align the two hardwood dowels in the leading edge
of the wing with the two predrilled holes in the
fuselage's forward bulkhead.
❑ 2) Carefully slide the wing forward, making
sure that the two hardwood dowels fully engage the
two predrilled holes in the forward bulkhead.
❑ 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the fuselage, at the back edge of the wing
saddle, and place a mark. See photo # 6 below.
❑ 7) Check that the wing is square to the fuselage. To do this use a ruler and carefully measure
from the trailing edge of each wing tip to the back
edge of the fuselage. Both of these measurements
should be the same. See figure # 1 below.
Figure # 1
A = A-1
❑ 8) If the two measurements are not the same,
carefully lift the masking tape and adjust the back of
the wing until they are. When you are satisfied with
the alignment, reattach the masking tape to hold the
wing securely in place.
INSTALLING THE BLIND NUTS
❑ 9) Using a ruler and a pen, measure 3/8" in front
of the trailing edge of the wing and place two marks,
one on each side of the centerline. Now measure
1-9/32" out from each side of the centerline and place
two marks. See photo # 7 below.
Photo # 7
Photo # 6
❑ 4) The joint where the two wing halves were
glued together is the centerline of the wing. Align
the centerline of the wing with the centerline you drew
on the bottom of the fuselage.
❑ 5) While holding the wing in alignment, use a
couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the wing
securely to the fuselage.
❑ 10) Using a drill with a 5/32" drill bit, carefully
drill two holes into the wing and down through the
plywood wing hold down block inside the fuselage.
Angle the drill bit so that the holes will be per-
☛
pendicular to the bottom of the wing.
❑ 11) Remove the wing from the wing saddle.
Using a drill with a 7/32" drill bit, enlarge only the
two holes in the plywood mounting block.
9
❑ 12) Install the two 4mm blind nuts into the bottom of the plywood mounting plate. Use a pair of
needle nose pliers to squeeze the blind nuts up into
place. See photo # 8 below.
Photo # 8
A balsa filler block has been preinstalled onto
☛
the bottom of the plywood plate to make it easier to
install the blind nuts.
❑ 18) Apply a generous amount of Kwik Bond
Thick C/A to the bottom of the doubler. Set the doubler back into place and realign it. Hold the doubler
firmly in place until the C/A fully cures.
❑ 19) Remove the wing from the wing saddle.
Using a drill with a 5/32" drill bit, drill the two wing
mounting screw holes through the wing bolt doubler.
Use the holes you drilled through the wing as a guide.
MOUNTING THE WING
❑ 20) Place the wing back into the wing saddle
and bolt it in place using the two 4mm x 25mm machine screws and two 4mm flat washers. Tighten the
screws firmly using a phillips head screwdriver. See
photo # 10 below.
❑ 13) With the blind nuts fully seated, carefully
apply a bead of Kwik Bond Thick C/A around the
bottom of each blind nut to lock them into place. Be
careful not to get any glue into the threads and allow
the C/A to fully cure before proceeding.
INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER
❑ 14) Place the wing back into the wing saddle
and realign it. Use a couple of pieces of masking
tape to hold it in place.
❑ 15) Set the wing bolt doubler (W-30) in place
on the bottom of the wing. The back edge of the
doubler should be about 1/16" in front of the trailing
edge and the sides of the doubler should be even with
the sides of the fuselage. See photo # 9 below.
Photo # 9
❑ 16) While holding the wing bolt doubler in
place, use a pen and outline the doubler onto the wing.
Photo # 10
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
PARTS REQUIRED
❑ {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED
❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Straight Edge Ruler
❑ Pen or Pencil
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
ALIGNING THE STABILIZER
❑ 17) Remove the doubler from the wing. Using
a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from
inside the outline you drew.
10
❑ 1) Remove the elevator and hinges from the
horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now.
❑ 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the
centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing
edge, and place a mark. Using a builder's triangle,
extend this mark from front to back across the top
and bottom of the stabilizer.
❑ 3) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the
covering from the tops of the stabilizer mounting sides
on the fuselage. See photo # 11 below.
Photo # 11
❑ 4) Mount the bottom wing to the fuselage. With
the fuselage securely in your airplane stand, set the
stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting sides. The trailing edge of the stabilizer should be even with the
back edge of the fuselage.
❑ 5) Align the centerline mark on the trailing edge
of the stabilizer with the center of the back edge of
the fuselage. When that is aligned, hold the trailing
edge of the stabilizer in that position using a piece of
masking tape.
stabilizer tip on the same side. Do this for both
sides. When the stabilizer is aligned properly , both
of these measurements should be the same. See
figure # 3 below.
Figure # 3
C = C-1
❑ 8) When you are satisfied with the alignment,
hold the stabilizer firmly in place using a couple of
pieces of masking tape. Do not use glue yet!
MOUNTING THE STABILIZER
❑ 9) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a
pen to draw lines onto the bottom of the stabilizer
where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both
the right and left sides.
❑ 10) Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage.
Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully
remove the covering from between them using a
modeling knife. See photo # 12 below.
❑ 6) With the stabilizer in place, look carefully
from the front of the fuselage at both the wing and
the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer
should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use
220 grit sandpaper and a sanding block to sand down
the higher stabilizer mounting side until the correct
alignment is achieved. See figure # 2 below.
Figure # 2
B = B-1
❑ 7) Now check to make sure that the tips of the
stabilizer are equal distances from the tips of the wing.
Use a ruler and measure from one wing tip to the
Photo # 12
When cutting through the covering to remove
☛
it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only
the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa will weaken
the stabilizer.
❑ 11) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting
area on the bottom of the stabilizer and to the tops of
the stabilizer mounting sides and cross-member on
the fuselage.
11
❑ 12) Set the stabilizer back into place and realign
it, double checking all of your measurements once
more. When satisfied with the alignment, hold the
stabilizer in place using several pieces of masking
tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol before it cures. Allow the epoxy
to fully cure before proceeding.
❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A
❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy
❑ Excel Modeling Knife
❑ Ernst Airplane Stand
❑ Masking Tape
❑ Pen or Pencil
❑ Builder's Triangle
❑ Paper Towels
❑ Rubbing Alcohol
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks
❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups
lines you drew and from the bottom edge of the stabilizer. Also remove the covering from inside the
outline you drew on top of the horizontal stabilizer.
See photo # 13 below.
Photo # 13
When cutting through the covering to remove
☛
it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only
the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa will weaken
the structure.
❑ 6) Set the vertical stabilizer back into place and
realign it. Using a builder's triangle, check to ensure
that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. See figure # 4 below.
Figure # 4
ALIGNING THE STABILIZER
❑ 1) Remove the rudder and the hinges from the
stabilizer and set them aside for now.
❑ 2) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the top of the precut slot in the
horizontal stabilizer.
❑ 3) Set the vertical stabilizer in place, making
sure that the tab in the bottom of the stabilizer is
pushed down firmly into the precut slot. The front
of the stabilizer should also be lined up with the
centerline you drew previously on the horizontal
stabilizer.
MOUNTING THE STABILIZER
❑ 4) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly
in place, use a pen to draw a line on each side of it
where it meets the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
Also draw a line on top of the horizontal stabilizer
around the base of the vertical stabilizer.
❑ 5) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling
knife, carefully remove the covering from below the
❑ 7) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting
slot in the horizontal stabilizer and to the sides and
bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Also
apply epoxy to the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
❑ 8) Set the stabilizer back into place and realign
it, double checking all of your measurements. Hold
the stabilizer in place using several pieces of masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully
cure before proceeding.
INSTALLING THE TRIANGLE STOCK
❑ 9) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering that overlaps onto the inner edges of the two pieces
of precovered triangle stock.
12
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