The Yak-18 was designed by the Soviet Designed Bureau Yakovlev. It was to be used as a
primary trainer in the Soviet Air Force. Like many of the Soviet aircraft, the Y ak-18 was built to withstand
the rigors of rough field takeoffs and demanding flying. The Yak-18 was equipped with a powerful
radial engine and rugged tricycle landing gear, just for this purpose. It's generous wing area, coupled
with excellent flight and ground handling qualities make the Yak-18 an excellent choice for modelers.
Now you too can experience what the full size Y ak-18 might have been like with your new Global
Yak-18 ARF. The Global Yak-18 is built by master craftsmen, utilizing the finest grades of balsa,
light ply, foam and fiberglass. It's covered using heat shrink polyester covering material, just like
you would use if you were building it yourself. A complete set of high quality hardware is in the box.
This includes the fuel tank, wheels, pushrods, clevises and much more. Even a high quality composite
10 x 6 propeller is included. Don't worry about having to buy a quality aftermarket cowl to replace the
cheap plastic one that comes in some ARF's. We've provided a one piece fiberglass cowl that's
painted to match the covering! The scale debris screen is even molded in. With this kind of quality
prefabrication, you'll be in the air and enjoying your new Yak-18 in no time!
Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed
the original cost of the purchased kit.
In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help
with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area
whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN. 47302-9252
(800) 435-9262
www.modelaircraft.org
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This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual
thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Yak-18. Use the parts listing below to identify and separate all of the parts before beginning assembly .
**KIT CONTENTS** We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification
during assembly . W e recommend that you regroup the parts in the same manner . This will ensure you have all
of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.
KIT CONTENTS
AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES
q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons
q {1} Fuselage
q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
q {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling
q {1} Molded Clear Canopy
Note - Part numbers for the servo extensions,
Y-harness and On-Board Battery Indicator are
for Hitec and JR radio systems. These items
are also available with different connectors for
use with Futaba and Airtronics radio systems.
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Pen or Pencil
q Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits
q Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Builders Triangle
q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
q Standard Masking T ape
q Paper T owels
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Wire Cutters
q 4mm Hex Driver
FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED
q Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006)
q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377)
q Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440)
q Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )
METRIC CONVERSION CHART
To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM
If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address below:
Customer Service Center
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley , CA. 92728
Phone: (714) 963-0329
Fax: (714) 964-6236
E-Mail: service@globalhobby.com
**SUGGESTION** T o avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are needed
for assembly. Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper, both to protect the aircraft and to
protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.
**NOTE** Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are
aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the YAK-18 is hand made from
natural materials, every airplane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you
should find the fit superior and assembly simple.
WING ASSEMBLY
PARTS REQUIRED
q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons
q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace
q {6} C/A Style Hinges
q {4} 8mm x 20mm x 20mm Wood Blocks
q {8} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws
q {2} Precovered Servo Hatches
HINGING THE AILERONS
q 1) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of each wing half and the leading edge of
each of the two ailerons.
q 2) T est fit the six C/A hinges into the hinge slots
in each aileron. Each hinge should be able to be inserted far enough into the aileron so the centerline of
the hinge is flush with the leading edge of the aileron.
If the hinges cannot be inserted deep enough, use a
modeling knife and cut the hinge slots deeper. See
figure # 1 below.
Figure # 1
of each hinge should be flush with the trailing edge
of the wing halves. If they are not, perform the same
technique as done in step # 2.
q 4) T est fit the ailerons to the wing halves, mak-
ing sure the ailerons engage each hinge completely.
Push the ailerons tight up against the trailing edge of
the wing halves. Move the ailerons up and down to
ensure they move smoothly. The gap between the
leading edge of the ailerons and the trailing edge of
the wing halves should be no more that 1/32”.
q 5) Rotate the ailerons down about 45º and apply
6-8 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area
of each hinge. Allow a few seconds between drops for
the C/A to wick into the hinge. Repeat for the opposite
sides of the hinges. See figure # 2 below .
Figure # 2
Hinge
Hinge Slot
q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the hinges in
the ailerons, remove them and test fit the hinges into
the trailing edge of the wing halves. The centerline
Modeling
Knife
Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time
as the excess C/A may run down the length of
the hinge line. Once cured, the ailerons may be stiff
and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move
the ailerons up and down about five to ten times to
free them up.
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INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS
q 6) Locate the two aileron servos, two 12” aileron extensions, one Y-Harness and Dubro heat shrink
tubing that you purchased separately.
q 7) Plug the two aileron servos into your radio
receiver and center them both. Make sure the aileron
trim tab on your transmitter is centered as well. Install the rubber isolation grommets and brass collets
onto both servos. The collets should be installed with
the flanges towards the bottom of the servo.
q 8) Install a single long servo arm onto each of
the servos. The arms should be mounted 90º to the
centerline of the servos. See figure # 3 below .
Figure # 3
q 12) Using a pencil, carefully outline the locations of the two wood blocks and the servo onto the
bottom of the servo hatch.
q 13) Remove the parts from the hatch. Using
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the two wood blocks
into place on the servo hatch. Allow the epoxy to
fully cure before proceeding.
It is very important that you use epoxy in this
situation. C/A glues will not adhere as well to
the hardwoods, and if used, the blocks could break
loose when installing the servo, or worse, during flight.
q 14) After the epoxy has cured, place the servo
back onto the hatch. Mark the locations of the four
mounting screws onto the two blocks using a pencil.
q 15) Remove the servo and drill 1/16” pilot holes
through the blocks for the servo mounting screws.
Servo Arm
90º
q 9) Locate the two precovered aileron servo
hatches. Turn each of the two hatches upside down
(non-covered side) and you will notice precut oval
holes. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering
from over the two holes. These holes are where the
servo arms will exit and actuate the ailerons.
q 10) Working on the bottom of one servo hatch
for now, place one servo onto the hatch. The servo
arm should be inserted through the hole and the edge
of the servo mounting tabs should be even with the
edge of the hatch. Notice the hole is angled. Make
sure the servo is parallel to the hole.
q 11) Holding the servo in proper alignment on
the bottom of the hatch, temporarily place two of the
8mm x 20mm x 20mm wood blocks in place behind
the servo mounting tabs. See photo # 1 below.
Photo # 1
Mounting
Mounting
Block
Block
Drilling pilot holes into the wood block before
installing the screws will keep the wood from
splitting when the screws are installed.
q 16) Place the servo back onto the servo hatch
and secure it in place with the mounting screws. Repeat steps # 10 - # 15 to install the second aileron
servo. On the bottom of each hatch place a mark so
you know which one is for the right and which one is
for the left. This will help keep you from mixing
them up.
INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCHES
q 17) T urn one wing panel right side up. Using a
modeling knife and a razor saw, remove the portion
of the root rib above the precut servo exit hole and
cut a half circle in the top of the wing to allow the
servo wire to pass up through. See photo # 2 below.
Photo # 2
Remove From
Top Sheeting
Remove From
Root Rib
Servo
Hatch
Servo
Arm
6
q 18) Attach one 12” aileron extension to one servo
lead. Cut one 1-1/2” length of heat shrink tubing and
slide it over the extension lead. Place the tubing over
the servo plugs where the lead and the extension are
connected. Shrink the tubing using a heat gun to secure the plugs in place. See figure # 4 below.
Figure # 4
Apply Heat Shrink
Around Plugs
Servo Lead
Extension
Lead
The heat shrink tubing will prevent the plugs
from coming apart during assembly and more
importantly during flight. If you don't use heat shrink
tubing, electrical tape works well also.
q 19) Insert the end of the servo extension into the
precut hole from inside the servo bay . Carefully push
the lead through the hole and out the other end.
INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE
q 24) Look at the surface of each root rib on both
wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs,
leaving about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does
not pull away.
It is important that the covering be removed
from the root ribs. This will ensure an adequate
wood-to-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure
during flight.
q 25) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark
the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw
one vertical line at this location on each side. See
photo # 4 below.
Photo # 4
Draw
Centerline
q 20) Set the servo hatch in place on the bottom
of the wing. The hatch should be orientated with the
servo arm toward the wing tip and up towards the
leading edge.
q 21) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and mark
the four mounting hole locations onto the hatch. The
holes should be located 1/8” in from each edge.
q 22) Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the hatch and
into the hardwood blocks beneath it at the locations
marked. Be careful not to drill through the top ofthe wing! Remove the hatch and enlarge the holes
through only the hatch using a 5/64” drill bit. Reinstall the hatch using the four 2mm x 6mm wood
screws. See photo # 3 below.
Photo # 3
Servo
Servo
Arm
Mounting
Screw
Hatch
Mounting
Screw
q 23) Repeat steps # 17 - # 22 to install the second
servo hatch assembly into the opposite wing half.
Dihedral
Brace
q 26) Test fit the dihedral brace into the plywood
box in each wing half. The brace should slide into
each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not,
remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips
until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 5 below.
Photo # 5
Root
Rib
Dihedral
Brace
The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V".
The "V" shape should face the top surface of
the wing when the brace is installed.
q 27) Test fit both of the wing halves together with
the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not useglue at this time! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section
joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove
7
the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of
the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together
with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat until
you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves.
q 28) When satisfied with the fit of the wing
halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.
JOINING THE WING HALVES
q 29) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy . Working with only one wing half for
now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood
dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral
brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well
as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
q 30) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood
box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy
before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.
q 31) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing
halves together to double check that the wing halves
still fit correctly.
q 32) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the
exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the
plywood box in the second wing half and the entiresurface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough
epoxy to fill any gaps.
q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two main gear wire mounting slots
located in the bottom of the wing. One slot is located
in each wing half, 2-3/4” out from the centerline of
the wing and 5-3/4” in front of the trailing edge. The
two slots are 5” long.
q 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into
the predrilled hole in one mounting slot. The coiled
spring in the gear wire should be facing the trailing
edge of the wing.
q 3) The gear wire is held in place using two landing gear straps and four 3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The straps should be located equal distance from the
inner and outer ends of the gear wire.
q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark
the locations of the four 3mm x 12mm mounting
screws onto the wing using a pen.
q 33) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges.
Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the
two wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See
photo # 6 below.
Photo # 6
Masking
Tape
Wing
Masking
Tape
Centerline
q 34) When the epoxy has fully cured, double
check the center section joint. If any gaps are
present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30
Minute Epoxy to carefully fill any remaining gaps.
Allow the epoxy to fully cure.
q 5) Remove gear wire and straps and drill four
5/64” holes into the wing to accept the wood screws.
Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing!
q 6) Reinstall the landing gear wire and straps
using the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. T ighten
the screws completely to secure the gear wire in
place. See photo # 7 below.
Photo # 7
Coil
Mounting
Strap
Wood
Screw
Landing
Gear Wire
q 7) Repeat steps # 2 - # 6 to install the second
landing gear wire.
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INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS
q 8) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and
one wheel collar with set screw onto each axle. Make
sure the wheels spin free and tighten the set screws in
the wheel collars. See photo # 8 below.
Photo # 8
Wheel
Nylon
Set
Screw
Wheel
Collar
Spacer
WING MOUNTING
q 6) With the wing held firmly in position, set
the wing bolt doubler in place. The rear edge of the
doubler should be flush with the trailing edge of the
wing and the sides of the doubler should be flush
with the sides of the fuselage. See photo # 9 below.
Photo # 9
Wing Bolt
Doubler
q 7) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen
and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the
wing's surface.
PARTS REQUIRED
q {2} 4mm x 45mm Socket Cap Screws
q {2} 4mm Flat Washers
q {1} Precovered Wing Bolt Doubler
INSTALLING THE WING
q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two predrilled wing mounting holes
in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located
3/4” forward of the trailing edge and 1-1/2” out from
the centerline. Remove the covering from over the
holes on both the top and bottom of the wing.
q 2) Place the wing into the wing saddle and temporarily secure it in place using the two 4mm x 45mm
machine screws and two 4mm flat washers.
T wo 4mm blind nuts have been preinstalled into
the bottom of the wing mounting block.
INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER
q 3) Remove the wing bolts and washers, but leave
the wing in place and aligned in the wing saddle. Hold
it in place with a couple of pieces of masking tape to
help keep it from moving.
q 4) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and draw a vertical centerline on the bottom of the wing bolt doubler.
q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully score the
wing bolt doubler down the centerline. This will allow the doubler to form to the wing's dihedral angle
much easier.
q 8) Remove the wing bolt doubler . Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from just
inside the outline on the wing.
q 9) Mix up a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing bolt doubler to the wing. Any excess epoxy can be easily
removed using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol
before the epoxy cures.
q 10) After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the
wing and drill out the wing mounting holes through
the doubler using an 11/64” drill bit. Use the holes
that were predrilled through the wing as a guide.
q 11) Place the wing back into the wing saddle. Secure the wing in place using the two 4mm x 45mm
machine screws and two 4mm flat washers.
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
INSTALLATION
PARTS REQUIRED
q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves
q {4} C/A Style Hinges
ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
q 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline
of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and
place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark,
from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer.
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