Global Hobby AK-18 Instructions Manual

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.36 -.46 Sport Scale ARF

Instructions for Final Assembly

The Yak-18 was designed by the Soviet Designed Bureau Yakovlev. It was to be used as a primary trainer in the Soviet Air Force. Like many of the Soviet aircraft, the Y ak-18 was built to withstand the rigors of rough field takeoffs and demanding flying. The Yak-18 was equipped with a powerful radial engine and rugged tricycle landing gear, just for this purpose. It's generous wing area, coupled with excellent flight and ground handling qualities make the Yak-18 an excellent choice for modelers.

Now you too can experience what the full size Y ak-18 might have been like with your new Global Yak-18 ARF. The Global Yak-18 is built by master craftsmen, utilizing the finest grades of balsa, light ply, foam and fiberglass. It's covered using heat shrink polyester covering material, just like you would use if you were building it yourself. A complete set of high quality hardware is in the box. This includes the fuel tank, wheels, pushrods, clevises and much more. Even a high quality composite 10 x 6 propeller is included. Don't worry about having to buy a quality aftermarket cowl to replace the cheap plastic one that comes in some ARF's. We've provided a one piece fiberglass cowl that's painted to match the covering! The scale debris screen is even molded in. With this kind of quality prefabrication, you'll be in the air and enjoying your new Yak-18 in no time!

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Kit Contents....................................................................3

Additional Items Required..............................................4

Tools and Supplies Needed.............................................4

Field Support Equipment Needed...................................4

Metric Conversion Chart.................................................4

Wing Assembly................................................................5

Hinging the Ailerons................................................5

Installing the Aileron Servos...................................6

Installing the Servo Hatches....................................6

Installing the Dihedral Brace...................................7

Joining the Wing Halves..........................................8

Main Gear Installation....................................................8

Installing the Main Gear Wires................................8

Installing the Main Gear Wheels.............................9

Wing Mounting...............................................................9

Installing the Wing..................................................9

Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler.............................9

Horizontal Stabilizer Installation....................................9

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer...........................9

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer........................10

Hinging the Elevator Halves..................................10

Vertical Stabilizer Installation........................................11

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer..............................11

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer............................11

Hinging the Rudder................................................11

Nose Gear Installation...................................................11

Installing the Nose Gear Brackets..........................11

Installing the Steering Arm....................................12

Installing the Steering Pushrod..............................12

Installing the Nose Gear Wheel.............................13

Engine Installation.........................................................13

Mounting the Engine to the Beams........................13

Mounting the Engine to the Firewall......................13

Installing the Throttle Pushrod...............................14

Fuel Tank.......................................................................14

Stopper Assembly..................................................14

Stopper Installation................................................15

Fuel Tank Installation.............................................15

Servo Installation...........................................................16

Installing the Fuselage Servos................................16

Throttle Connection.......................................................16

Installing the Throttle Connector............................16

Elevator Pushrod...........................................................16

Installing the Control Horns...................................16

Installing the Elevator Pushrod..............................17

Rudder Pushrod.............................................................17

Installing the Control Horn....................................17

Installing the Rudder Pushrod...............................18

Aileron Pushrods...........................................................19

Installing the Control Horns...................................19

Installing the Aileron Pushrods.............................19

Cowl..............................................................................19

Installing the Cowl Blocks....................................19

Mounting the Cowl.................................................20

Installing the Fuel Filler.........................................20

Installing the Fuel Lines........................................20

Canopy..........................................................................21

Canopy Preparation................................................21

Mounting the Canopy.............................................21

Final Assembly..............................................................21

Installing the Receiver and Battery........................21

Installing the Switch..............................................22

Balancing......................................................................22

Control Throws.............................................................22

Flight Preparation.........................................................22

Preflight Check......................................................22

Flying.............................................................................23

Notes..............................................................................24

Trim Chart......................................................................25

Product Evaluation Sheet..............................................27

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

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This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Yak-18. Use the parts listing below to identify and separate all of the parts before beginning assembly .

**KIT CONTENTS** We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification during assembly . W e recommend that you regroup the parts in the same manner . This will ensure you have all of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons q {1} Fuselage q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves q {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

MAIN GEAR ASSEMBL Y

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires q {2} 55mm Diameter Wheels q {4} Landing Gear Straps q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws q {2} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws q {2} Nylon Axle Spacers

NOSE GEAR ASSEMBL Y

q {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire q {1} 55mm Diameter Wheel q {2} Nylon Nose Gear Mounting Brackets q {4} 3mm x 16mm Wood Screws q {2} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws q {1} Nylon Axle Spacer q {1} Nylon Steering Arm q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly q {1} 1.5mm x 250mm Pushrod wire w/Z-bend q {1} 3mm x 250mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

ELEVAT OR CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 680mm Split Elevator Pushrod Assembly q {2} Nylon Clevises q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {4} C/A Style Hinges

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

q {2} 2mm x 76mm Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {2} Nylon Clevises q {6} C/A Style Hinges q {4} 8mm x 20mm x 20mm Wood Blocks q {8} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 680mm Rudder Pushrod Assembly q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {1} Nylon Clevis q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly q {3} C/A Style Hinges

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 1.5mm x 250mm Pushrod Wire w/Z-bend q {1} 3mm x 250mm Nylon Pushrod Housing q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams q {4} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws q {4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws q {8} 4mm Flat Washers q {4} 4mm Split Washers q {4} 4mm Hex Nuts

FUEL T ANK

q {1} 280cc Molded Fuel Tank q {1} 4mm x 28mm Nylon Pick-Up Tube q {2} 4mm x 28mm Prebent Nylon Vent Tube q {1} 3mm x 18mm Self Tapping Screw q {1} Length of Fuel Tubing q {1} Metal Weighted Pick-Up q {1) Nylon Fuel Cap q {1} Rubber Stopper q {1} Nylon Backplate q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Housing q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Snap Ring q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Plug

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace q {1} Precovered Wing Bolt Doubler q {2} Precovered Aileron Servo Hatches q {4} 10mm x 10mm x 20mm Hardwood Blocks q {4} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws q {4} 3mm Flat Washers q {2} 4mm x 45mm Socket Cap Screws q {2} 4mm Flat Washers q {1} 10 x 6 Propeller for .40 Size Engines

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ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

q {1}Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/5 Servos q {2}Cirrus 12” Servo Extensions # 444713 q {1}Cirrus Y-Harness # 444728 q {1}Dubro Heat Shrink Tubing # 440 q {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513 q {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923 q {1}Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter # 340 q {1}Olive Drab Lusterkote Spray # TOPR7210

OPTIONAL ITEMS

q {1}Ernst Charge Jack # 124 q {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762 q {2} Williams Bros. Military Pilots # 17100 q {1}Cirrus 12” Servo Extension # 444713

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

q Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 q Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 q Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 q Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 q Wilhold Silicon Sealer # 00684 q Pacer RC256 Canopy Glue # PT-56 q 3M Fineline Masking T ape 1/8” # 218-06300 q Electric Drill q Assorted Drill Bits q Modeling Knife q Machine Oil or Vaseline q T-Pins

FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINE

q {1}Magnum XL .36 - .46 Two Cycle Engine q {1}Propeller To Suit Engine q {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493 q {1}Magnum Polished Spinner Nut # 237210

Note - Part numbers for the servo extensions, Y-harness and On-Board Battery Indicator are for Hitec and JR radio systems. These items are also available with different connectors for use with Futaba and Airtronics radio systems.

q Straight Edge Ruler q Pen or Pencil q Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits q Phillips Head Screwdriver q Builders Triangle q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block q Standard Masking T ape q Paper T owels q Rubbing Alcohol q Wire Cutters q 4mm Hex Driver

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

q Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006) q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377) q Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440) q Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm

q Global 12V Charger (# 110270 ) q Magnum Power Panel (# 237390) q Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072) q Magnum 4-Way Wrench (# 237420)

1” = 25.4mm 2” = 50.8mm 3” = 76.2mm 6” = 152.4mm 12” = 304.8mm 18” = 457.2mm

21” = 533.4mm 24” = 609.6mm 30” = 762.0mm 36” = 914.4mm

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If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address below:

Customer Service Center

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley , CA. 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

E-Mail: service@globalhobby.com

**SUGGESTION** T o avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are needed

for assembly. Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper, both to protect the aircraft and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.

**NOTE** Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the YAK-18 is hand made from natural materials, every airplane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you should find the fit superior and assembly simple.

WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Wing Halves with Ailerons q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace q {6} C/A Style Hinges q {4} 8mm x 20mm x 20mm Wood Blocks q {8} 2mm x 6mm Wood Screws q {2} Precovered Servo Hatches

HINGING THE AILERONS

q 1) Locate the three precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of each wing half and the leading edge of each of the two ailerons.

q 2) T est fit the six C/A hinges into the hinge slots in each aileron. Each hinge should be able to be inserted far enough into the aileron so the centerline of the hinge is flush with the leading edge of the aileron. If the hinges cannot be inserted deep enough, use a modeling knife and cut the hinge slots deeper. See

figure # 1 below.

Figure # 1

of each hinge should be flush with the trailing edge

of the wing halves. If they are not, perform the same

technique as done in step # 2.

q 4) T est fit the ailerons to the wing halves, mak-

ing sure the ailerons engage each hinge completely.

Push the ailerons tight up against the trailing edge of

the wing halves. Move the ailerons up and down to

ensure they move smoothly. The gap between the

leading edge of the ailerons and the trailing edge of

the wing halves should be no more that 1/32”.

q 5) Rotate the ailerons down about 45º and apply

6-8 drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area

of each hinge. Allow a few seconds between drops for

the C/A to wick into the hinge. Repeat for the opposite

sides of the hinges. See figure # 2 below .

Figure # 2

Hinge

Hinge Slot

q 3) When satisfied with the fit of the hinges in the ailerons, remove them and test fit the hinges into the trailing edge of the wing halves. The centerline

Modeling

Knife

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of the hinge line. Once cured, the ailerons may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the ailerons up and down about five to ten times to free them up.

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INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

q 6) Locate the two aileron servos, two 12” aileron extensions, one Y-Harness and Dubro heat shrink tubing that you purchased separately.

q 7) Plug the two aileron servos into your radio receiver and center them both. Make sure the aileron trim tab on your transmitter is centered as well. Install the rubber isolation grommets and brass collets onto both servos. The collets should be installed with the flanges towards the bottom of the servo.

q 8) Install a single long servo arm onto each of the servos. The arms should be mounted 90º to the centerline of the servos. See figure # 3 below .

Figure # 3

q 12) Using a pencil, carefully outline the locations of the two wood blocks and the servo onto the bottom of the servo hatch.

q 13) Remove the parts from the hatch. Using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the two wood blocks into place on the servo hatch. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

It is very important that you use epoxy in this

situation. C/A glues will not adhere as well to the hardwoods, and if used, the blocks could break loose when installing the servo, or worse, during flight.

q 14) After the epoxy has cured, place the servo back onto the hatch. Mark the locations of the four mounting screws onto the two blocks using a pencil.

q 15) Remove the servo and drill 1/16” pilot holes through the blocks for the servo mounting screws.

Servo Arm

90º

q 9) Locate the two precovered aileron servo hatches. Turn each of the two hatches upside down (non-covered side) and you will notice precut oval holes. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two holes. These holes are where the servo arms will exit and actuate the ailerons.

q 10) Working on the bottom of one servo hatch for now, place one servo onto the hatch. The servo arm should be inserted through the hole and the edge of the servo mounting tabs should be even with the edge of the hatch. Notice the hole is angled. Make sure the servo is parallel to the hole.

q 11) Holding the servo in proper alignment on the bottom of the hatch, temporarily place two of the 8mm x 20mm x 20mm wood blocks in place behind the servo mounting tabs. See photo # 1 below.

Photo # 1

Mounting

Block

Drilling pilot holes into the wood block before

installing the screws will keep the wood from splitting when the screws are installed.

q 16) Place the servo back onto the servo hatch and secure it in place with the mounting screws. Repeat steps # 10 - # 15 to install the second aileron servo. On the bottom of each hatch place a mark so you know which one is for the right and which one is for the left. This will help keep you from mixing them up.

INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCHES

q 17) T urn one wing panel right side up. Using a modeling knife and a razor saw, remove the portion of the root rib above the precut servo exit hole and cut a half circle in the top of the wing to allow the servo wire to pass up through. See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

Remove From

Top Sheeting

Remove From

Root Rib

Servo Hatch

Servo

Arm

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q 18) Attach one 12” aileron extension to one servo lead. Cut one 1-1/2” length of heat shrink tubing and slide it over the extension lead. Place the tubing over the servo plugs where the lead and the extension are connected. Shrink the tubing using a heat gun to secure the plugs in place. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

Apply Heat Shrink

Around Plugs

Servo Lead

Extension

Lead

The heat shrink tubing will prevent the plugs

from coming apart during assembly and more importantly during flight. If you don't use heat shrink tubing, electrical tape works well also.

q 19) Insert the end of the servo extension into the precut hole from inside the servo bay . Carefully push the lead through the hole and out the other end.

INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

q 24) Look at the surface of each root rib on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs, leaving about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does not pull away.

It is important that the covering be removed

from the root ribs. This will ensure an adequate wood-to-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure during flight.

q 25) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace. Draw one vertical line at this location on each side. See

photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

Draw

Centerline

q 20) Set the servo hatch in place on the bottom of the wing. The hatch should be orientated with the servo arm toward the wing tip and up towards the leading edge.

q 21) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and mark the four mounting hole locations onto the hatch. The holes should be located 1/8” in from each edge.

q 22) Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the hatch and into the hardwood blocks beneath it at the locations marked. Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing! Remove the hatch and enlarge the holes through only the hatch using a 5/64” drill bit. Reinstall the hatch using the four 2mm x 6mm wood screws. See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

Servo

Arm

Mounting

Screw

Hatch

Mounting

Screw

q 23) Repeat steps # 17 - # 22 to install the second servo hatch assembly into the opposite wing half.

Dihedral

Brace

q 26) Test fit the dihedral brace into the plywood box in each wing half. The brace should slide into each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not, remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

Root

Rib

Dihedral

Brace

The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V".

The "V" shape should face the top surface of the wing when the brace is installed.

q 27) Test fit both of the wing halves together with the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not use glue at this time! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove

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the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat until you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves.

q 28) When satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

JOINING THE WING HALVES

q 29) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Working with only one wing half for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 30) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

q 31) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing halves together to double check that the wing halves still fit correctly.

q 32) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the plywood box in the second wing half and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires q {2} 55mm Diameter Wheels q {4} Landing Gear Straps q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws q {2} Wheel Collars w/Set Screws q {2} Nylon Axle Spacers

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two main gear wire mounting slots located in the bottom of the wing. One slot is located in each wing half, 2-3/4” out from the centerline of the wing and 5-3/4” in front of the trailing edge. The two slots are 5” long.

q 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into the predrilled hole in one mounting slot. The coiled spring in the gear wire should be facing the trailing edge of the wing.

q 3) The gear wire is held in place using two landing gear straps and four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. The straps should be located equal distance from the inner and outer ends of the gear wire.

q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark the locations of the four 3mm x 12mm mounting screws onto the wing using a pen.

q 33) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges. Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the two wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See

photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

Masking

Tape

Wing

Masking

Tape

Centerline

q 34) When the epoxy has fully cured, double check the center section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy to carefully fill any remaining gaps. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.

q 5) Remove gear wire and straps and drill four 5/64” holes into the wing to accept the wood screws.

Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing!

q 6) Reinstall the landing gear wire and straps using the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. T ighten the screws completely to secure the gear wire in place. See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

Coil

Mounting

Strap

Wood

Screw

Landing

Gear Wire

q 7) Repeat steps # 2 - # 6 to install the second landing gear wire.

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INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

q 8) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and one wheel collar with set screw onto each axle. Make sure the wheels spin free and tighten the set screws in the wheel collars. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

Wheel

Nylon

Set

Screw

Wheel Collar

Spacer

WING MOUNTING

q 6) With the wing held firmly in position, set the wing bolt doubler in place. The rear edge of the doubler should be flush with the trailing edge of the wing and the sides of the doubler should be flush with the sides of the fuselage. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

Wing Bolt

Doubler

q 7) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the wing's surface.

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 4mm x 45mm Socket Cap Screws q {2} 4mm Flat Washers q {1} Precovered Wing Bolt Doubler

INSTALLING THE WING

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two predrilled wing mounting holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located 3/4” forward of the trailing edge and 1-1/2” out from the centerline. Remove the covering from over the holes on both the top and bottom of the wing.

q 2) Place the wing into the wing saddle and temporarily secure it in place using the two 4mm x 45mm machine screws and two 4mm flat washers.

T wo 4mm blind nuts have been preinstalled into the bottom of the wing mounting block.

INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER

q 3) Remove the wing bolts and washers, but leave the wing in place and aligned in the wing saddle. Hold it in place with a couple of pieces of masking tape to help keep it from moving.

q 4) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and draw a vertical centerline on the bottom of the wing bolt doubler.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully score the wing bolt doubler down the centerline. This will allow the doubler to form to the wing's dihedral angle much easier.

q 8) Remove the wing bolt doubler . Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from just inside the outline on the wing.

q 9) Mix up a small quantity of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing bolt doubler to the wing. Any excess epoxy can be easily removed using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol before the epoxy cures.

q 10) After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the wing and drill out the wing mounting holes through the doubler using an 11/64” drill bit. Use the holes that were predrilled through the wing as a guide.

q 11) Place the wing back into the wing saddle. Secure the wing in place using the two 4mm x 45mm machine screws and two 4mm flat washers.

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator Halves q {4} C/A Style Hinges

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer.

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q 2) Slide the stabilizer into place in the precut slot in the rear of the fuselage. To center the stabilizer from side to side, measure the stabilizer from the fuselage sides out to the stabilizer's tips. Both measurements should be equal when the stabilizer is centered. See figure # 5 below .

Figure # 5

Horizontal

Stabilizer

q 7) On the top and bottom of the stabilizer, draw a line where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides.

q 8) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you drew as a guide, remove the covering from between them using a modeling knife. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

Fuselage

A-1

A=A-1

q 3) When satisfied that the stabilizer is centered, place a marks on each side of the top and bottom of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Doing this will help you realign the stabilizer later.

q 4) With the stabilizer centered in the fuselage, use a couple of pieces of masking tape or a T-pin to secure the stabilizer in place at the trailing edge only.

q 5) Align the stabilizer to the wing. When viewed from the rear, the stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not, remove the stabilizer and use 220 grit sandpaper to sand down the high side of the stabilizer mounting platform in the fuselage until the stabilizer is level with the wing. Measure the distance from each wing tip to each stabilizer tip. These distances should be equal. See figures # 6 and # 7 below .

Figure # 6

BB-1

B=B-1

Figure # 7

C=C-1

Draw

Line

Draw

Remove

Covering

Line

When using the modeling knife, be careful not

to cut too deep. Only use enough pressure to cut through the covering. Cutting deeper into the wood can weaken the structure and possibly cause the stabilizer to fail in flight.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 9) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly , glue the horizontal stabilizer in place using Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Wipe away any excess epoxy using paper towels and rubbing alcohol and hold the stabilizer in place using masking tape or T-pins.

Because the stabilizer has to slide in place

through the fuselage, we suggest you apply a liberal amount of epoxy to only the gluing surface of the stabilizer . This will prevent spreading epoxy over the entire length of one half of the stabilizer when you slide it in place. After the epoxy has cured, use more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were not filled previously.

q 6) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place using a couple of pieces of masking tape or a couple of T-pins.

C-1

HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES

q 10) Hinge the two elevator halves using the same technique as with the ailerons.

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of the hinge lines. Once cured, the elevators may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move them up and down about five to ten times to free them up.

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VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder q {3} C/A Style Hinges

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 1) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer should be even with the rear edge of the fuselage and the bottom of the stabilizer should be firmly pressed against the top of the horizontal stabilizer. The dorsal fin should be centered with, and pressed firmly against, the top of the fuselage.

q 2) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage. Also draw a line on the top of the fuselage where it and the dorsal fin meet.

q 3) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew on the stabilizer. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer, the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and between the lines you drew on top of the fuselage. See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

Draw Line

Remove

Covering

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.

q 4) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. See

figure # 8 below.

Remove

Covering

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 5) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and to the top of the fuselage also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

HINGING THE RUDDER

q 6) Hinge the rudder using the same technique as with the ailerons and elevator halves.

Be careful not to use too much C/A at one time

as the excess C/A may run down the length of the hinge line. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move it back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR BRACKETS

q 1) Install the two nylon nose gear mounting brackets to the bottom of the firewall using the four 3mm x 16mm wood screws. The pilot holes for the wood screws have already been predrilled in the proper positions. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

Figure # 8

90º

Fuselage

Vertical

Stabilizer

Horizontal

Stabilizer

Mounting

Brackets

Wood

Screw

Page 12

INSTALLING THE STEERING ARM

q 2) Place one wheel collar into the molded recess in the nylon steering arm. Make sure the threaded hole in the wheel collar is aligned with the predrilled hole in the side of the steering arm.

q 3) Slide the nose gear wire up through the lower nylon mounting bracket, through the steering arm, and up through the upper mounting bracket.

The steering arm should face the left side of

the fuselage (looking from the front) and the coil in the nose gear wire should face the back of the fuselage.

q 4) Using a ruler, measure from the bottom of the firewall and adjust the height of the nose gear until the top of the coil is 3/16” down from the bottom of the firewall.

7/8”

3/8”

Forward

Bulkhead

Figure # 9

Fuselage

Side

q 10) Using a 7/64 drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the forward bulkhead at the mark made.

q 11 ) Using a ruler and pen, measure and place a mark on the forward servo tray support bulkhead, 3/8” down from the top of the wing saddle and 1/4” out from the inside edge of the fuselage side. See

figure # 10 below.

Figure # 10

1/4”

q 5) Holding the nose gear wire at the proper height, rotate the wire so that the axle is straight. Carefully rotate the steering arm so the tip of the arm is about 3/4” in front of the firewall.

q 6) While holding everything properly aligned, tighten the set screw in the steering arm to lock the nose gear in position. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

Steering

Arm

Set Screw

Nose Gear

INSTALLING THE STEERING PUSHROD

q 7) Using a pen, place a mark on the firewall, behind the outermost predrilled hole in the steering arm. The mark should be even with the arm.

q 8) Rotate the steering arm out of the way . Using 7/64” drill bit, drill a hole through the firewall at the mark made.

q 9) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and place a mark on the forward bulkhead 7/8” down from the top of the wing saddle and 3/8” out from the inside edge of the fuselage side. See figure # 9 at top right.

Fuselage

Side

Servo Tray

Support

Bulkhead

3/8”

q 12) Using a 7/64 drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the forward servo tray support bulkhead at the mark made.

q 13) Slide the 3mm x 250mm pushrod housing through the hole in the firewall, through the hole in the forward bulkhead, and through the hole in the forward servo tray support bulkhead. The end of the tube should be flush with the firewall.

q 14) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the pushrod housing where it exits the firewall, where it passes through the forward bulkhead, and where it passes through the forward servo tray support bulkhead. This will hold the housing securely in place.

q 15) After the C/A has cured, use a modeling knife and cut off the nylon pushrod housing about 1/8” beyond the back edge of the support bulkhead.

q 16) Notice one end of the 1.5mm x 250mm pushrod wire has a Z-Bend premade in it and the other end is plain. Slide the plain end of the wire into the end of the pushrod housing at the firewall. Remove the nose gear and steering arm assembly from the two

Page 13

mounting brackets and attach the Z-Bend into the hole furthest out in the steering arm. Reattach the nose gear and steering arm assembly as done previously .

q 17) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the steering pushrod wire, if necessary , until it is aligned with the steering arm and does not bind when the nose gear is rotated. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

surface. The engine should be mounted on the "tall" side of the beams. See photo # 16 below.

Photo # 16

Motor Mount

Beams

Clamp

Spacer

Pushrod Wire

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL

q 18) Slide one nylon spacer, then the wheel, and one wheel collar with set screw onto the axle. Make sure the wheel spins free and tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

Set

Screw

Wheel Collar

Nylon

Spacer

Nose Gear

Wire

q 2) Mark the locations of the four engine mounting holes on the beams using a pencil. For the engine to align properly with the front of the cowling, it is important that the front edge of the engine's drive washer be 4-5/8” in front of the back surface of the mounting beams.

q 3) When satisfied with the alignment of the engine, remove the beams from the clamp and drill 3/32” pilot holes through the mounting beams at the four engine mounting hole locations. Double check the alignment of the engine and then drill out the holes through the beams using a 5/32” drill bit.

q 4) Mount the engine to the mounting beams using four 4mm x 35mm machine screws, four 4mm flat washers, four 4mm split washers and four 4mm hex nuts. The flat washers and split washers are installed on the bottom of the beams only . Tighten the screws and nuts completely. See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

ENGINE INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams q {4} 4mm x 20mm Machine Screws q {4} 4mm x 35mm Machine Screws q {8} 4mm Flat Washers q {4} 4mm Split Washers q {4} 4mm Hex Nuts q {1} 1.5mm x 250mm Pushrod Wire w/Z-bend q {1} 3mm x 250mm Nylon Pushrod Housing

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO THE BEAMS

q 1) Use a clamp and a spacer to hold the two mounting beams together. The beams should be level with each other and parallel. The predrilled mounting holes are not the same distance from the beam

Machine

Screws

If you are using an engine equipped with a re-

mote needle valve we recommend mounting the needle valve to the engine after installing the motor mount/engine assembly to the firewall.

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO THE FIREWALL

The mounting holes in the firewall have already

been predrilled and the blind nuts installed for a Magnum .40 - .46 engine. If you are using an engine that has a different crankcase dimension, you will need to remove the blind nuts and reinstall them in the proper position for your particular application.

Page 14

q 5) Install the motor mount assembly to the firewall using the four 4mm x 20mm machine screws and four 4mm flat washers. Tighten the screws completely to secure the engine mount assembly in place.

See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD

q 6) Mark and drill a hole through the firewall for the throttle pushrod housing using a 7/64” drill bit. Position the hole level with the throttle arm and just to the outside edge of the motor mounting beam.

q 12) Notice one end of the 1.5mm x 250mm pushrod wire has a Z-Bend premade in it and the other end is plain. Slide the plain end of the wire into the end of the pushrod housing at the firewall. Remove the throttle arm from the engine and attach the Z-Bend to the hole farthest out in the throttle arm. Reattach the throttle arm to the engine.

q 13) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the throttle pushrod wire until the wire is aligned with the throttle arm and does not bind when the throttle barrel is rotated. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

Pushrod

Wire

q 7) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and place a mark on the forward bulkhead 1-1/8” down from the top of the wing saddle and 5/8” out from the inside edge of the fuselage side. See figure # 1 1 below.

Figure # 11

Fuselage

Side

5/8”

1-1/8”

Forward

Bulkhead

q 8) Using a 7/64 drill bit, carefully drill a hole through the forward bulkhead at the mark made.

q 9) Slide the 3mm x 250mm pushrod housing through the hole in the firewall, through the hole in the forward bulkhead, and into the servo compartment. Leave about 1/4” of the housing extending beyond the front of the firewall.

q 10) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the pushrod housing where it exits the firewall and where it passes through the forward bulkhead. This will secure the housing in place.

q 11) Using a modeling knife, cut off the nylon pushrod housing 1/8” past the back edge of the forward bulkhead.

FUEL TANK

PARTS REQUIRED

STOPPER ASSEMBLY

q 1) Identify each of the parts that make up the fuel tank assembly. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

Silicon

Tube

Screw

Cap

Rubber

Stopper

Backplate

Pickup

Tube

Vent

Tubes

q 2) Using a modeling knife, cut the silicon fuel tubing to 3-3/4” long. Connect one end of the tubing to the weighted fuel pick-up.

Tank

Clunk

Page 15

There are three molded holes in the rubber fuel

tank stopper. Two are opened and one is covered by a thin layer of rubber on the front of the stopper. Using a modeling knife, remove the thin layer of rubber to completely open the third hole.

q 3) Push the single 4mm x 28mm nylon pickup tube through one hole in the rubber stopper until 3/8” protrudes from the front of the stopper. Slide the nylon backplate over the tube at the back of the stopper.

q 4) Push one 4mm x 28mm prebent nylon vent tube through the nylon backplate and through the rubber stopper until it protrudes 3/8” from the front of the stopper.

STOPPER INSTALLATION

q 8) Press fit the stopper assembly into the tank opening. The stopper should be rotated so the nylon vent tube is pointing straight up towards the top of the tank. See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

Pick-up

Tube

Top

Vent Tube

Fill

Tube

q 5) Using a modeling knife, remove part of the second nylon vent tube as shown below . This will be the fill tube. Push it through the nylon backplate and through the rubber stopper until it protrudes 3/8” from the front of the stopper. It is used in conjunction with the fuel filler that will be installed later. Orientate the tubes as shown. See figure # 12 below.

Figure # 12

Nylon

Backplate

Fill

Tube

Vent Tube

Pickup

Tube

(Drawing is Full Size)

q 6) Slide the nylon fuel cap over the three tubes at the front of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 18mm self tapping screw into the center hole in the cap. Push the screw through the stopper and into the nylon backplate. Begin to tighten the screw, but do not completely tighten it at this time.

q 7) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the weighted pickup attached, onto the rear portion of the nylon pick-up tube. See photo # 21 below.

Fill

Tube

Fuel

Pick-up

Silicon

Tube

Photo # 21

Cap

Machine

Screw

Vent Tube

Rubber

Stopper

Backplate

q 9) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pick-up should be about 3/8” from the rear of the tank and move freely within the tank. Adjust the length of the tube accordingly.

q 10) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly, tighten the 3mm x 18mm self tapping screw until the stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the screw as this could cause the tank to split.

For added security you may wish to apply a thin

bead of silicon sealer around the fuel cap where it seals around the front of the tank. Make sure not to get any sealer in the nylon fuel tubes.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

q 11) Install three lengths of silicon fuel tubing onto the vent, fuel pick-up and fuel filler tubes at the front of the tank. Slide the fuel tank into position in the tank compartment while feeding the fuel lines out the predrilled hole in the firewall. The tank should be installed so that the top of the tank faces the top of the fuselage and the stopper assembly should engage the predrilled hole in the firewall.

Do not permanently secure the tank in place until

after balancing the airplane. It may be necessary to mount the receiver or the battery pack inside the tank compartment to help balance the airplane. After you have completed balancing, secure the tank in position using a couple of dabs of silicon sealer between the tank and the forward bulkhead. W e also recommend sealing the predrilled hole in the firewall with silicon sealer to prevent exhaust residue from entering the fuselage.

Page 16

SERVO INSTALLATION

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction. When the throttle stick is moved forward from idle to full throttle the servo should rotate clockwise.

q 1) Locate the three servos you intend to use for the elevator, rudder/steering and throttle controls. Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the servos. The brass collets should be installed with the flanges facing the bottom of the servos.

q 2) Position the servos into the preinstalled servo tray as shown below. Drill 1/16” pilot holes for each of the mounting screws to prevent the wood from splitting. Note the locations of the servos and their output shafts. This is important. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

Front

Throttle

Elevator

Rudder

THROTTLE CONNECTION

q 3) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo arm assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their lowest positions.

q 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully closed. Angle the servo arm back about 30º from center and attach the servo arm to the servo. With the carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector.

q 5) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire using wire cutters and install the servo arm retaining screw. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

Pushrod

Wire

Servo Connector

Servo Arm

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

q 1) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of one servo arm. You may have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to accommodate the servo connector. Remove the excess material from the arm. See figure # 13 below .

Figure # 13

Servo

Arm

Set

Screw

Nut

Servo

Connector

Washer

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the nut from coming loose during flight.

q 2) Plug the throttle servo into the receiver and turn on the radio system. Check to ensure that the

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 680mm Split Elevator Pushrod Assembly q {2} Nylon Clevises q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

q 1) Position one elevator control horn on the bottom of each elevator half. The centerline of each horn should be 3/4” out from the fuselage sides at the hinge line. Position the control horns so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge lines. The control horns should be angled towards the fuselage sides. See figure # 14 below.

Figure # 14

Control

Horn

Control

Horn

Page 17

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horns as a guide, and drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves.

q 3) Mount the control horns to the elevators by inserting the four 2mm x 25mm machine screws through the control horn mounting bases, through the elevator halves and into the backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

Figure # 15

Servo

Arm

Set

Screw

Nut

Servo

Connector

Washer

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the nut from coming loose during flight.

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two elevator pushrod exit slots in the rear of the fuselage. The center of each slot is located on each side of the fuselage, 3-5/8” in front of the rudder hinge line and 1-3/16” below the horizontal stabilizer. Each slot is 1-1/2” long and 3/16” tall.

q 5) Slide the elevator pushrod assembly through the fuselage and out the two pushrod exit holes. To make this easier, drop two pieces of string through the exit holes and into the servo bay. T ie one piece of string to each wire and carefully pull the string. This will guide the pushrod wires out the exit holes.

q 6) Thread two nylon clevises onto the threaded ends of both elevator pushrod wires. For security, thread the clevises on no less than 5/16”.

q 7) Attach each clevis to the outermost hole in each control horn. See photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

Control

Horn

Pushrod

Exit

Clevis

Pushrod

Wire

q 8) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of one servo arm. Y ou may have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm to accommodate the servo connector. Remove the excess material from the arm. See figure # 15 at top right.

q 9) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo arm assembly over the elevator pushrod wire.

q 10) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold each elevator half in neutral.

q 11) Plug the elevator servo into the receiver and center the servo. Place the servo arm onto the servo. The servo arm should be perpendicular to the fuselage sides and point towards the middle of the fuselage.

q 12) With both elevator halves and the servo arm centered, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector. Remove the excess wire using wire cutters and install the servo arm retaining screw. See

photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

Servo Arm

Elevator Pushrod

Servo

Connector

RUDDER PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 680mm Pushrod Assembly q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {1} Nylon Clevis q {2} Adjustable Servo Connector Assemblies

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

q 1) Position the rudder control horn on the left side of the rudder. The horn should be 1/2” up from

Page 18

the bottom of the rudder at the hinge line. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge line. See figure # 16 below.

Figure # 16

Control

Horn

Machine

Screw

q 8) Install two adjustable servo connectors through the third hole out from the center of one dual-arm servo arm. You may have to enlarge the holes in the servo arm to accommodate the servo connectors. Remove the excess material from the arm. See figure # 17 below.

Figure # 17

Set

Screw

Backplate

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the mounting holes through the rudder.

q 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder by inserting the four 2mm x 25mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the rudder and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. You do not want to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the rudder pushrod exit slot in the rear of the fuselage. The center of the slot is located on the left side of the fuselage, 3-5/8” in front of the rudder hinge line and 1-3/4” below the horizontal stabilizer. The slot is 1-1/2” long and 3/16” tall.

q 5) Slide the rudder pushrod assembly through the fuselage and out the exit hole. To make this easier , drop a piece of string through the exit hole and into the servo bay . Tie the piece of string to the wire and carefully pull the string. This will guide the pushrod wire out the exit hole.

q 6) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the rudder pushrod wire. For security, thread the clevis on no less than 5/16”.

q 7) Attach the clevis to the outermost hole in the control horn. See photo # 27 below.

Servo

Arm

Servo

Connector

Nut

Washer

After installing the adjustable servo connectors

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond thin C/A to the nuts. This will prevent the nuts from coming loose during flight.

q 9) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo arm assembly over the rudder pushrod wire and over the steering pushrod wire. The steering pushrod wire fits through the opposite adjustable connector .

q 10) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder in neutral.

q 11) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and center the servo. Place the servo arm onto the servo. The servo arm should be positioned perpendicular to the fuselage sides.

q 12) With both the rudder, the nose gear , and the servo arm centered, tighten the set screws in the two adjustable servo connectors. Remove the excess wires using wire cutters and install the servo arm retaining screw.. See photo # 28 below.

Photo # 28

Rudder

Pushrod

Photo # 27

Control

Horn

Clevis

Pushrod

Wire

Adjustable

Connectors

Steering Pushrod

q 13) Move the rudder servo back and forth a couple of times. There should be no binding in the rudder pushrod or steering pushrod present.

Page 19

AILERON PUSHRODS

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 2mm x 76mm Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates q {4} 2mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {2} Nylon Clevises

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

q 1) The centerline of the control horns are located 1/2” out from the inside edge of each aileron. Position the control horns on the bottom of the ailerons with the clevis attachment holes directly in-line with the hinge lines. The control horns should also be parallel with hinge lines as well. See figure # 18 below .

Figure # 18

q 8) When satisfied with the fit, attach the clevis to the fourth hole out from the bottom of the clevis.

See photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

Servo

Arm

Clevis

Pushrod

Wire

Control

Horn

q 9) Repeat steps # 4 - # 8 to install the second aileron linkage.

Control

Horn

Machine

Screw

Backplate

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit and the control horns as a guide and drill the mounting holes through the ailerons.

q 3) Mount the control horns to the ailerons by inserting the 2mm x 25mm machine screws through the control horn mounting bases, through the ailerons and into the backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. You do not want to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHRODS

q 4) Thread one nylon clevis onto one 2mm x 76mm threaded wire. For security thread the clevis on no less than 5/16”.

q 5) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the aileron in neutral. Connect the leads of a Y-harness to the two servo leads coming out the top of the wing. Plug the Y-harness into the receiver and center the servos.

q 6) Install the Z-bend into the outermost hole in the servo arm. You may have to enlarge the hole so the wire will fit through.

q 7) With the aileron and servo arm in neutral, carefully adjust the nylon clevis by either turning it in or out until the clevis pin lines up with the holes in the control horn.

q 10) Remove the masking tape from both ailerons. Check to make sure both ailerons are centered. If they are not, adjust the length of the linkages by turning the clevises in or out.

COWL

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling q {4} 10mm x 10mm x 20mm Hardwood Blocks q {4} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws q {4} 3mm Flat Washers q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Housing q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Snap Ring q {1} Nylon Fuel Filler Plug

INSTALLING THE COWL BLOCKS

q 1) Test fit the four 10mm x 10mm x 20mm hardwood cowl mounting blocks onto the firewall. T wo blocks are positioned on the top of the firewall, flush with the top of the fuselage. There are also two blocks positioned on the bottom of the firewall, flush with the bottom of the fuselage. Use a modeling knife and 220 grit sandpaper to contour each of the four blocks to fit flush with the outer surface of the fuselage. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

Mounting

Block

Mounting

Block

Top

View of

Fuselage

Bottom View of

Fuselage

Page 20

q 2) When satisfied with the fit, use 220 grit sandpaper and remove the paint from where the mounting blocks will be glued in place.

q 3) Glue the four mounting blocks in place using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

MOUNTING THE COWL

q 4) Slide the cowling over the fuselage as far as possible. Mark where the cowl comes in contact with the nose gear strut. Remove the cowl and cut out the cowl, about 1” forward, to clear the strut.

q 5) Slide the cowl back into place and install the propeller onto the engine. Align the cowl so the molded spinner ring is evenly spaced around the engine's drive washer.

q 6) T emporarily hold the cowling in place using pieces of masking tape. Using a pencil, place guide marks on the fuselage directly behind the trailing edge of the cowl. Place the marks in the area behind the cowl mounting blocks.

The cowl in slightly oversized. For the cowl to fit properly you must squeeze the cowl at the

locations of the mounting blocks.

q 10) Cut the holes in the cowl to access the high and low speed needle valves (use a needle valve extension made out of scrap pushrod material to access the high speed needle valve from outside the cowl) and cylinder head clearance. Remove the cowl and install the muffler onto the engine. Make the cutout in the cowl for muffler clearance and reinstall the cowl to check the fit. A Dremel T ool with a rotary sanding bit works best to make these cutouts.

INSTALLING THE FUEL FILLER

q 11) Remove the cowl. Using a 5/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the cowl to accept the nylon fuel filler housing. We suggest drilling the hole on the bottom of the cowl so the housing is out of the way.

q 12) Push the fuel filler housing into the hole and snap the nylon snap ring over the housing from the inside of the cowl. See figure # 19 below.

Figure # 19

SNAP RING

COWL

HOUSING

FUEL

TUBING

PUSH IN

PLUG

q 7) Remove the cowl and measure the distances from the guide marks on the fuselage to the center of the cowl mounting blocks.

q 8) Slide the cowl back into position and hold it in place using pieces of masking tape. Use the guide marks and measurements to position the holes on the cowl for the four mounting screws.

q 9) Drill 5/64” holes into the cowl and through the hardwood blocks at the mounting hole positions. Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes through only the cowl using a 1/8” drill bit. Secure the cowl in place using the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws and four 3mm washers. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

Drive

Washer

Mounting

Screws

INSTALLING THE FUEL LINES

q 13) Cut to length and attach the vent line to the muffler pressure nipple and fuel pick-up line to the fuel nipple on the carburetor (if using a standard carburetor engine) or on the fuel nipple on the needle valve assembly (if using an engine equipped with a remote mounted needle valve).

q 14) Slide the fuel filler line through the fuel filler housing mounted in the cowl. Leave about 1” of line exiting the outside of the cowl and cut off the remainder . Attach the nylon fuel filler plug to the fuel line and push the plug into the housing. Refer to figure # 19.

To fill the fuel tank you must first completely

close the needle valve on the engine. Pull the fuel filler line out the housing by gently grasping the fuel filler plug. Remove the vent line from the muffler and fill through the fuel filler line. When the tank is full, reattach the vent line to the muffler and install the fuel filler plug into the filler line and push it back into the housing to keep it in place. Reopen the needle valve to the original setting.

Page 21

CANOPY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

CANOPY PREPARATION

q 1) Using a sharp knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim out the canopy along the molded scribe lines around the front and back of the canopy . Carefully trim the entire length of the canopy sides just below the molded recesses of the canopy frame. See

photo # 32 below.

Olive Drab spray paint, following the manufacturer's recommendations. Allow the paint to dry then remove the masking tape.

MOUNTING THE CANOPY

q 6) Glue the canopy in place using RC256 Canopy Glue. Run a bead of the glue along the entire perimeter of the canopy, then set the canopy it place. Use pieces of masking tape to hold the canopy in place until the glue fully cures.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

Photo # 32

Canopy Shown Painted for Clarity

q 2) Test fit the canopy to the fuselage. The canopy should be centered over the top of the fuselage and the front edge should be about 1” behind the back edge of the cowling. See photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY

q 1) Plug the servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch also. Y ou may want to use an extension lead plugged into the receiver to make connecting the aileron Y-harness easier when you install the wing.

q 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Position both of these items behind the servos, cradled in the foam part of the fuselage. Use extra foam pieces and scrap wood, glued between the fuselage sides, to hold them in position. Run the extension forward, under the servos, to keep it out of the way of the pushrods.

When balancing the airplane you may need to

move the battery or receiver forward or aft to achieve proper balance. In our test airplane, using a Magnum XL .40ARNV two stroke engine, the battery and receiver were mounted as per step # 2.

You can tell the front of the canopy from the back because the front angle is steeper and the

back has more of a radius.

q 3) When satisfied with the fit, remove the canopy and use 220 grit sandpaper to carefully sand the edges of the canopy smooth and straight.

q 4) W ash the canopy with a soft cloth using warm water and liquid soap. Dry off the canopy and then allow it to air dry for about 15 minutes.

q 5) Using 3M Fineline masking tape, mask off the window panels so that only the canopy frame is exposed. Paint the canopy using T opflite Lusterkote

q 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage, near the receiver, for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band and a modified servo arm. See figure # 20 below.

Figure # 20

Antenna

Modified

Servo Arm

Cut

Servo

Arm

Rubber

Band

To Vertical

Fin

Page 22

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

q 4) The switch should be mounted on the fuselage side, opposite the muffler, close enough to the receiver so the lead will reach. Use the faceplate of the switch itself to locate and mark the switch cutout and mounting holes.

q 5) Cut out the switch hole using a modeling knife. Use a 5/64” drill bit and drill out the two mounting holes through the fuselage side.

Once you have flown and trimmed the Yak-18

the balance point can be moved forward or aft up to 3/8” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the balance point forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive. Do not fly the Yak-18 beyond

the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

CONTROL THROWS

q 6) Secure the switch in place using the two machine screws provided with the radio system.

q 7) Mount the optional Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator and the optional Ernst charge jack to the fuselage side. Plug the battery indicator into an empty slot in the receiver and secure the charge lead firmly into the charge jack.

BALANCING

q 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is lo-

cated 3-1/8” back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides. This location is recommended

for initial test flying and trimming. There is a 3/8” margin forward and aft, but it is not recommended that the center of gravity be located any further back than 3-1/2”.

the fuel tank empty.

q 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the top side of the wing 3-1/8” back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.

q 3) Turn the airplane upside down. Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.

q 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and receiver forward or if this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or use a brass heavy hub spinner hub, similar to those offered by Harry Higley. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.

Balance the Yak-18 upside down with

q 1) We highly recommend setting up the Yak-18 using the control throws listed below . W e have listed control throws for both initial test flying/sport flying and aerobatic flying.

q 2) Turn on the radio system. With the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises. The servo arms should be centered also.

q 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The

control throws should be measured at the widest point of each surface!

INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING

Ailerons: 5/16” up 5/16” down Elevator: 5/16” up 5/16” down Rudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 1/2” up 1/2” down Elevator: 9/16” up 9/16” down Rudder: 1” right 1” left

Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying.

By moving the position of the clevis at the con-

trol horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the clevis toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw .

FLIGHT PREPARATION

q 1) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder, steering, ailerons and throttle.

q A) Plug in your radio system per the

manufacturer's instructions and turn everything on.

Page 23

q B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move up. If it they do not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

PREFLIGHT CHECK

q 1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

q C) Check the rudder. Looking from behind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. The nose gear should also move to the right. If they do not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carburetor barrel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q E) From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick to the right. The aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q 2) Check Control Surface Throw.

q A) The Rudder should move 3/4” left and

3/4” right from center. If it moves too far, move the pushrod clevis to a hole in the rudder horn away from the rudder. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw . The nose gear should rotate about 3/8” in each direction.

q 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the Yak-18 to ensure that everything is tight and well bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

q 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.

q 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind in any way.

q 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.

q 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.

q 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

q 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure.

FLYING

q B) Both elevator halves should move 5/16” up and 5/16” down from center. If they move too far , move the pushrod clevises to a hole in the elevator horns away from the elevator halves. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw . Both elevator halves should also travel the same amount throughout their total movement.

q C) The ailerons should move 5/16” up and 5/16” down from center. If the ailerons move too much, move the clevises to a hole in the clevises farther away from the ailerons. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw . It is important that both ailerons move the same amount, both up and down.

q D) Once the control throws and movements are set, tubing must be added to the clevises to ensure they do not release in the air. Cut a piece of fuel line into five 1/4” pieces. Unsnap the clevises and slip one piece over each clevis. Snap the clevises back in place and slide the tubing up over them.

The Yak-18 is designed for those pilots who are experienced in flying a low wing trainer plane. It isn't a primary trainer, but it is an excellent aerobatic trainer with a scale appearance. If you do not feel comfortable that you are able to test fly the airplane don't hesitate to ask someone for help getting it tested and trimmed out. T ypically, sport airplanes such as the Y ak-18, require some different flying techniques that you might not be familiar with. It is very important to let the airplane get up to flying speed before lifting off. Pulling the plane off the ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall and crash. You should allow the plane to roll out until sufficient speed has been built up. When you're ready to liftoff, gently pull it off the ground and into a shallow climb to altitude.

In the air, the Yak-18 flies like any other low wing sport airplane. Loops, rolls, low passes and most any other maneuvers are all possible.

Page 24

When it is time to land always bring the airplane in with a small amount of power. It is not a good habit to just chop the throttle and dive the airplane to the ground. Just like a real airplane, gradually reduce power along with altitude and speed. When you are about 2-3 feet off the ground, reduce power to idle and gently let the airplane settle onto the runway. Be careful not to over control. You will find that the Yak-18 will slow down very well for easy and safe landings every time.

We hope you have enjoyed building and flying your new Global Yak-18 ARF. If you have any suggestions or comments, please let us know by filling out the Product Evaluation Sheet at the end of this manual.

NOTES

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TRIM CHART

After you have test flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a truer, straighter and better flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and Try for hands off straight Readjust linkages so Tx

random maneuvers. and level flight. trims are centered.

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers. A) Too sensitive, jerky If A) Change linkages to

controls. reduce throws. B) Not sufficient control. If B) Increase throws.

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight flight, A) Airplane continues If A) Thrust is correct.

chop throttle quickly. level path for short

distance. B) Airplane pitches nose up. If B) Decrease downthrust. C) Airplane pitches nose If C) Increase downthrust. down.

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll A) Continues in bank for If A) Balance is good. Longitudinal Balance to 45º bank and moderate distance.

neutralize controls. B) Nose pitches up. If B) Add nose weight.

C) Nose drops. If C) Remove nose weight.

Yaw** Into wind, do inside A) Wings level throughout. If A) Trim is correct.

loops using only elevator. B) Yaws to right in both If B) Add left rudder trim. Repeat tests doing inside and outside loops. outside loops from C) Yaws to left in both If C) Add right rudder trim. inverted entry. inside and outside loops.

D) Yaws to right on inside, If D) Add left aileron trim. and left on outside loops. E) Yaws left on inside, and If E) Add right aileron trim. right on outside loops.

Lateral Balance Into wind, do tight A) Wings are level and If A) Trim is correct.

inside loops. plane falls to either side.

B) Falls off to left in loops. If B) Add weight to right Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip. C) Falls off to right in loops. If C) Add weight to left Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.

Aileron Rigging With wings level, pull A) Climb continues along If A) Trim is correct.

to vertical climb and same path. neutralize controls. B) Nose tends to go to If B) Raise both ailerons

inside loop. very slightly. C) Nose tends to go to If C) Lower both ailerons outside loop. very slightly.

*Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact. Check both. **Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Elevator halves may be moving different amounts. Check to ensure they travel the same amount both up and down. Right and left references are from the rear of the plane, as if you were in the cockpit.

Page 26

Page 27

PRPR

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our addr ess faces out.

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TION SHEETTION SHEET

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1) Kit: Global Yak-18 .36 - .46 ARF

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

q Magazine Ads q Friend q Hobby Shop q Other q Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

q Magazine Ads q Price q Type of Model q Box Art q Recommendation q Other q Internet

4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

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5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of

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the photographs. If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

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6) Were any of the kit parts:

q Damaged q Wrong Size q Missing q Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to re solve the problem? q Yes q No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

_____________________________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________ _____________________________________

8) What did you like most about this kit?

q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit q Hardware Supplied q Price q Other

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q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit

q Hardware Supplied q Price q Other

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no, please explain. q Yes q No

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11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by

other manufacturers?

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Additional Comments: _________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________________________________

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Global Hobby AK-18 Instructions Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual