Global Ultimate Instructions For Final Assembly

.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE

.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE

.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE.46 SIZE AEROBATIC ARF PERFORMANCE BIPLANE

Instructions for Final Assembly

Would you like to fly your own Ultimate Biplane? Do you want to be flying in a weekend?
Are you ready for an aerobatic 46 size performance biplane? Then you’ve chosen wisely .
The Global ARF Ultimate was made for you. Features like an all balsa and plywood built up
airframe, just like you'd do it yourself from a kit. A generous tail section combined with a
long fuselage moment and swept wings make this an aerobatic performer that you'll always
want to fly . A super strong metal wing center cabane system with outer plywood interplane
struts hold everything together when you're performing snap rolls and inverted spins. T o go
along with this we've provided a prepainted four color cowling, prepainted wheel pants and
a clear molded canopy . There is no other aerobatic biplane in it's class that is easier to
assemble or that flys better . We know you’ll enjoy building the Ultimate, but you bought this
airplane to fly . And that's what it does best. Set up for sport flying, it’ s predictable and
tracks like it's on rails. Deceivingly easy to fly , change the set-up parameters and you’ll
push the envelope like an experienced airshow performer. Complete inverted flat spins and
torque rolls like you’ve never performed before!

Version V1.0 3-99 Kit # 123820 All Contents © Copyright 1999

1

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Kit Contents....................................................2

Additional Items Required...............................3

Tools and Supplies Needed..............................3

Field Support Equipment Needed.....................3

Metric Conversion Chart..................................3

Bottom Wing Mounting...................................4

Align the Bottom Wing.............................4

Installing the Blind Nuts...........................4

Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler...............5

Installing the Wing....................................5

Horizontal Stabilizer Mounting........................5

Align the Horizontal Stabilizer..................5

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer............6

Vertical Stabilizer Mounting...........................7

Align the Vertical Stabilizer......................7

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer................7

Top Wing Mounting........................................7

Align the Top Wing...................................7

Installing the Interplane Struts...................8

Mounting the Top Wing............................9

Control Surface Installation..............................9

Hinge the Elevator Halves.........................9

Install the Tail Wheel Assembly................9

Hinge the Rudder....................................10

Install the Tail Wheel..............................11

Hinge the Bottom Wing Ailerons............11

Hinge the Top Wing Ailerons..................11

Engine Mounting...........................................12

Mounting Engine to Motor Mount...........12

Aligning the Motor Mount.......................12

Mounting the Engine to Firewall..............13

Fuel Tank......................................................13

Fuel Tank Assembly................................13

Fuel Tank Installation..............................14

Throttle Linkage............................................14

Installing the Throttle Linkage.................14

Main Landing Gear........................................14

Installing the Gear Bracket.......................14

Installing the Wheel Pants........................15

Adjusting the Wheel Pants.......................15

Aileron Servo................................................16

Installing the Aileron Servo.....................16

Installing the Aileron Linkage..................16

Radio Installation...........................................17

Installing the Servo Tray..........................17

Installing the Servos.................................17

Installing the Receiver and Battery...........17

Installing the Switch................................17

Throttle Linkage............................................18

Installing the Throttle Connector..............18

Rudder Pushrod..............................................18

Installing the Rudder Control Horn..........18

Installing the Rudder Pushrod..................19

Elevator Pushrod............................................20

Installing the Elevator Control Horns.......20

Installing the Pushrod Joiner....................20

Installing the Elevator Pushrod.................20

Aileron Links.................................................21

Installing the Control Horns.....................21

Installing the Aileron Links......................22

Canopy..........................................................22

Trimming the Canopy..............................22

Mounting the Canopy..............................22

Cowling.........................................................22

Mounting the Cowl..................................22

Balancing.......................................................24

Lateral Balance........................................24

Control Throws..............................................24

Flying............................................................25

Notes.............................................................25

Trim Chart.....................................................26

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does
not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed the

original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed
for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable
help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in
your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

[phone]

www.modelaircraft.org

2

This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read
this manual thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Ultimate Biplane. Use the parts
listing below to identify and separate all parts before beginning assembly.

** KIT CONTENTS** We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better iden­tification during assembly. We recommend you regroup the parts in the same manner. This will
ensure you have all of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiar­ize yourself with each part.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

o {1} Fuselage w/Metal Cabane Struts, Pushrod

Housings, Wood Gear Cover (D-29), and
Horizontal Stabilizer Spacer (D-26A)

o {1} Bottom Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Top Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges
o {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves & Hinges
o {2} Outboard Interplane Struts
o {1} Fiberglass Cowling
o {1} Clear Canopy

MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY

o {1} Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
o {2} Wheel Pants
o {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels
o {3} 4mm x12mm Machine Screws
o {2} 4mm x 35mm Axle Screws
o {4} 2mm x 8mm Wood Screws
o {2} 4mm Flat Washers
o {2} 4mm Hex Nuts
o {2} 4mm Lock Nuts
o {4} 4mm Nylon Spacers

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

o {1} Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing
o {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
o {1} Wheel Collar w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screw

ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM

o {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Back Plates
o {4} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {2} 600mm Nylon Pushrods
o {2} 2mm x 100mm Wire Threaded Both Ends
o {3} Nylon Clevises (one w/1.5mm I.D. Hole)
o {1} Nylon Joiner Plate
o {2} 2.2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
o {4} 2mm Flat Washers
o {1} 2mm x 20mm Machine Screw
o {1} 2mm Hex Nut

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY

o {2} Nylon Mounting Beams
o {4} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws
o {4} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws
o {16}3mm Flat Washers
o {8} 3mm Lock Nuts

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

o {1} 1.5mm x 300mm Wire Threaded One End
o {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole
o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

o {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate
o {2} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {1} 700mm Nylon Pushrod
o {1} 2mm x 120mm Wire Threaded Both Ends
o {1} 2mm x 85mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
o {1} Nylon Snap Keeper
o {1} Nylon Clevis

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

o {4} Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Back Plates
o {8} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {2} 2mm x 200mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
o {2} 2mm x 85mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
o {4} Nylon Clevises
o {4} Nylon Snap Keepers
o {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

o {1} Molded Fuel Tank
o {1} Rubber Stopper
o {1} 20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate
o {1} 18mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate
o {1} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw
o {1} Weighted Metal Pick-Up
o {3} Aluminum Tubes
o {1} 90mm Silicon Fuel Tube

WING MOUNTING

o {4} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws
o {8} 3mm Flat Washers
o {4} 3mm Blind Nuts
o {2} 4mm x 25mm Machine Screws
o {2} 4mm Flat Washers
o {2} 4mm Blind Nuts
o {1} 3mm x 50mm Machine Screw
o {1} 3mm x 35mm Machine Screw
o {2} 3mm Lock Nuts

MISCELLANEOUS

o {1} Wing Bolt Doubler (W-24)
o {2} Wing Servo Mounting Plate (W-25)
o {1} Wing Cabane Shim (D-31)
o {2} Pushrod Supports (D-32)
o {1} Fuselage Servo Tray (D-15)
o {2} Balsa Support Rails (D-30)
o {4} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
o {4} 3mm x 6mm Wood Screws
o {1} 35mm Clevis Retaining Tube

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ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

o {1}Hitec 4 Channel Radio w/4 Servos
o {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513
o {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923
o {1}Dubro Fuel Filler Valve # 334
o {1}Goldberg 1/4” White Striping Tape # 724
o {1}Goldberg 1/8” Black Striping Tape # 711
o {1}Coverite 21st Century Red Paint # COVR0102
o {1}Coverite 21st Century Clear # COVR1265

OPTIONAL ITEMS

o {1}Williams Bros. 2-5/8” Pilot # 18500
o {1}Ernst External Charge Jack # 124
o {1}Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

o Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500
o Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510
o Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560
o Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565
o Pacer Canopy Glue # PT-56
o Pacer Thread Lock # PT-42
o Silicon Sealer
o Electric Drill
o Assorted Drill Bits
o Modeling Knife
o Machine Oil or Vaseline
o Rubbing Alcohol
o Paper Towels

FOR 4-STROKE ENGINE

o {1}Magnum XL .52-.80 Four Stroke
o {1}Magnum 2-1/2” Aluminum Spinner # 237154
o {1}Propeller To Suit Engine
o {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115490

FOR 2-STROKE ENGINE

o {1}Magnum XL .46-.53 Two Stroke
o {1}Pitts Style Muffler to Suite Engine
o {1}Magnum 2-1/2” Aluminum Spinner # 237154
o {1}Propeller To Suit Engine
o {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493

o Straight Edge Ruler
o Dremel Tool w/Assorted Bits
o Robart Incidence Meter # 404
o Ernst Airplane Stand # 157
o Phillips Screwdriver
o Flat Blade Screwdriver
o Wire Cutters
o Pliers
o Builders Triangle
o 220 Grit Sandpaper
o Masking Tape
o Scissors

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

o Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006)
o Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377)
o Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440)
o Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

T o convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm
1/32” = .8mm
1/16” = 1.6mm
3/32” = 2.4mm
1/8” = 3.2mm
5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm
1/4” = 6.4mm
3/8” = 9.5mm
1/2” = 12.7mm
5/8” = 15.9mm
3/4” = 19.0mm

o Global 12V Charger (# 110270 )
o Magnum Power Panel (# 237390)
o Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072)
o Magnum 4-Way Wrench (# 237420)

1 ” = 25.4mm
2” = 50.8mm
3” = 76.2mm
6” = 152.4mm
12” = 304.8mm
18” = 457.2mm

4

21 ” = 533.4mm
24” = 609.6mm
30” = 762.0mm
36” = 914.4mm

If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address

below:

Customer Service Center

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA. 92728

Phone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-Mail: [e-mail]

**SUGGESTION** To avoid scratching or damaging your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until

they are needed for assembly. Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper, both to protect
the aircraft and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you
open the bags.

**NOTE** Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure that you have the correct parts and that they fit and are
aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper assembly. Since the Ultimate Biplane is hand
made from natural materials, every plane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. How­ever, you should find the fit superior and assembly simple.

BOTTOM WING MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Bottom Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Wing Bolt Doubler (W-24)
o {2} 4mm x 25mm Machine Screws
o {2} 4mm Washers
o {2} 4mm Blind Nuts

ALIGN THE BOTTOM WING

o 1) Place the wing into the wing saddle
making sure that the preinstalled dowel in the
leading edge of the wing fully engages the
predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead in the
fuselage. Push the wing as far forward as
possible. The leading edge should fit tight
against the bulkhead.

o 2) Using a ruler and pen, measure and
place a mark on the centerline of the bottom
of the fuselage at the rear of the wing saddle.
Also measure and place a mark at the
centerline of the wing at the trailing edge. See

photo # 1 below.

Photo # 1

DRAW CENTERLINE

DRAW CENTERLINE

o 3) With the wing in the wing saddle, align

the two marks and hold the wing securely in

place using a couple of pieces of masking tape.

o 4) Remove the ailerons from the wing.

To double check that the wing is square to

the fuselage, use a ruler and measure from

each wing tip to the rear edge of the fuse-

lage. Both measurements should be equal.

See figure # 1 below.

Figure # 1

A

A=A1

INST ALLING THE BLIND NUTS

A1

o 5) When satisfied with the alignment, use

a 5/32” drill bit and drill two holes through the

wing and on through the plywood wing hold

down block. The holes are located 1-1/2” out

from the centerline and 1/2” forward of the trail-

ing edge.

5

o 6) Remove the wing from the wing
saddle. Drill out only the holes in the ply­wood wing mounting block using a 7/32” drill
bit.

o 11) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
5 Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing
doubler to the wing. Allow the epoxy to fully
cure.

Drilling out only these holes will allow
easier installation of the blind nuts in the

next step.

o 7) Install the two 4mm blind nuts from
underneath the plywood wing hold down
block. The blind nuts can be installed using
pliers by first removing the portion of the balsa
filler block directly above where the blind nuts
are installed. See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

REMOVE

BALSA

INSERT BLIND

NUT FROM

BOTTOM

INST ALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER

o 8) Place the wing back into the wing
saddle, aligning the centerline marks. While
holding the wing firmly in place, set the wing
bolt doubler (W-24) in place. The rear edge
of the doubler should be just forward of the
rear edge of the wing saddle and the sides of
the doubler should be flush with the sides of
the fuselage.

o 9) While holding the doubler in place, use
a pen and draw around the doubler to outline
it onto the wing surface.

o 10) Remove the doubler and using a mod­eling knife, carefully remove the covering
from just inside the outline.

o 12) Remove the wing and drill out the
holes through the doubler using a 5/32” drill
bit. Use the holes already drilled through the
wing as a guide and drill down through the
top of the wing.

INST ALLING THE WING

o 13) Place the wing back into the wing
saddle. Secure the wing in place using the
two 4mm x 25mm machine screws and two
4mm washers. See photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

WING BOLT

DOUBLER

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves

and Hinges

ALIGN THE HORIZONT AL STABILIZER

o 1 ) Using a modeling knife, carefully re­move the covering from over the stabilizer slot
precut in the rear of the fuselage. The slot is
located about 3” up from the bottom of the fu­selage. There is a precovered wood spacer at
the end of the slot. It is not glued in and should
be removed and saved. See photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

REMOVE COVERING

REMOVE BALSA

BLOCK

6

o 2) Remove the elevator halves from the
stabilizer. Using a ruler and pen, locate and
mark the centerline of the horizontal stabi­lizer at the trailing edge and place a mark.
Use a triangle and extend this mark, from
back to front, across the top and bottom of
the stabilizer.

o 3) Slide the stabilizer into the slot. The
stabilizer should be pushed firmly up against
the front of the slot, leaving about 1-1/2” of
space between the trailing edge and the rear
of the fuselage.

o 4) With the wing still attached to the fuse­lage, align the centerline mark on top of the
stabilizer with the centerline of the fuselage at
the rear. When that is aligned hold the stabi­lizer in that position using a T-pin and align
the horizontal stabilizer with the wing. When
viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer
should be level with the wing. If it is not level,
use sandpaper and sand down the high side of
the stabilizer mounting platform until the proper
alignment is achieved. The tips of the stabi­lizer should also be equal distance from the tips
of the wing. See figures # 2 and # 3 below.

Figure # 2

A

Figure # 3

A1

MOUNTING THE HORIZONT AL STABILIZER

o 6) With the stabilizer held firmly in place,

use a pen and draw a line where it and the fu-

selage sides meet. Do this on both the right

and left sides and top and bottom of the stabi-

lizer.

o 7) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines

you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the

covering from between them, using a model-

ing knife. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

REMOVE

COVERING

When cutting through the covering to re-

move it, cut with only enough pressure
to only cut through the covering itself. Cut­ting into the balsa structure may weaken it.

o 8 ) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of
Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer
to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting
area and to the stabilizer mounting platform on
the fuselage. Set the stabilizer in place and re­align. Double check all of your measurements
once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the sta­bilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and
remove any excess epoxy using paper towels and
rubbing alcohol.

B

o 5) When you are satisfied with the align­ment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins
or masking tape, but do not glue at this time.

B1

o 9) After the epoxy has fully cured, install
the precovered spacer that you removed earlier
back into the slot . Glue the spacer in place using
Kwik Bond Thick C/A. See photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

REINSTALL

WOOD

BLOCK

7

VERTICAL STABILIZER

MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder and Hinges

ALIGN THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER

o 1 ) Using a modeling knife, carefully re­move the covering from over the stabilizer slot
precut in the top rear of the fuselage.

o 2) Remove the rudder from the stabilizer.
Slide the stabilizer into the slot in the top of
the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer
should be even with the rear edge of the fuse­lage and it should be firmly pushed down com­pletely into the slot.

o 3) Using a pen, draw a line on each side
of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top
of the fuselage.

o 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a mod­eling knife, remove the covering from below
the lines you drew. Also remove the cover­ing from the bottom edge of the stabilizer. See

photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

REMOVE

COVERING

When cutting through the covering to re-

move it, cut with only enough pressure
to only cut through the covering itself. Cut­ting into the balsa structure may weaken it.

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER

o 6 ) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount
of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a
thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of
the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of
the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Set the
stabilizer in place and realign. Double check
all of your measurements once more before
the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place
with T-pins or masking tape and remove any
excess epoxy using paper towels and rubbing
alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before
proceeding.

TOP WING MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Top Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges
o {1} Wing Cabane Shim (D-31)
o {2} Outboard Interplane Struts
o {4} 3mm x 16mm Machine Screws
o {8} 3mm Flat Washers
o {4} 3mm Blind Nuts
o {1} 3mm x 50mm Machine Screw
o {1} 3mm x 35mm Machine Screw

ALIGN THE TOP WING

Set-up is extremely important in any air-

plane. However, wing incidence is criti­cal in a biplane to achieve proper flight per­formance. Incidence is the angle the flying
surfaces flow through the air. The Ultimate
should be set with the stabilizer at 0º, the lower
wing at 0º, and the top wing at 0º or -1º inci­dence. The following installation procedures
explain how to achieve proper initial setup.

See figure # 5 below.

Figure # 5

0º or -1º

o 5) Set the vertical stabilizer back in place.
Using a triangle, check to ensure that the ver­tical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal
stabilizer. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

90º

0º

0º

o 1) With the bottom wing installed, set the
airplane upright in an airplane stand.

We highly recommend using a stand.

They can be purchased separately or made
yourself using items found around your shop.

8

o 2 ) With the airplane setting in the stand,
attach an incidence meter to the horizontal sta­bilizer. Adjust the airplane in the stand until the
incidence meter reads 0º. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

o 6) Locate and remove the covering from
over the two predrilled wing hold down holes
in the top wing. These holes are located down
the centerline of the wing. The forward hole
is located 7” in front of the trailing edge and
the rear hole is located 3-5/8” in front of the
trailing edge. Remove the covering from both
the top and bottom of the holes.

o 7) Mount the top wing to the aluminum
cabane struts using the 3mm x 50mm machine
screw in the front, the 3mm x 35mm machine
screw in the rear. Use four 3mm washers and
two 3mm lock nuts to secure the wing in place.

o 3) Use rubber bands or weights to hold
the airplane in position in the stand. It needs
to be secured so it cannot be moved during
the next few steps. After you are satisfied it
has been secured properly, recheck the stabi­lizer incidence to ensure it is still at 0º.

o 4) Remove the incidence meter from the
stabilizer and attach it to the bottom wing. The
incidence meter should read 0º as well.

If the incidence meter does not read 0º

then recheck the incidence of the stabi­lizer to ensure it has not moved. If you are
certain it hasn't, recheck the incidence of the
bottom wing. You should make small adjust­ments to the wing saddle until the incidence
meter reads 0º on the bottom wing.

o 5) Working with the top wing, first iden-
tify the bottom surface of it. If you look
closely, two ribs in from each tip, there is a
precut slot that is 2” long and accepts the outer
interplane struts. This is the bottom of the
wing. Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over these two slots. See photo

# 9 below.

If the holes in the wing do not align with

the holes in the cabane struts loosen the
strut screws further to allow the metal parts to
adjust to the wing. The screws will be com­pletely tightened after the wing alignment has
been set. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

SCREWS

INST ALLING THE INTERPLANE STRUTS

o 8 ) Locate the two outer interplane struts.
There is a top and bottom to the struts. There
are two predrilled holes in one end of each strut.
Where these two holes are located is the bot­tom of the strut. Using a modeling knife, re­move the covering from over these holes on
both sides of each strut. See figure # 6 below.

Figure # 6

APPROXIMATE

HOLE

LOCATIONS

Photo # 9

REMOVE

COVERING

FRONT

BOTTOM OF

STRUT

o 9) On the top side of the bottom wing there
are two slots for the struts similar to those in the
top wing . These two slots are located just to the
outside of the strut mounting blocks in the top
side of the bottom wing. Using a modeling knife,
remove the covering from over the two slots.

9

o10) There are two predrilled holes
through each strut mounting block in the bot­tom wing. Using a modeling knife, remove
the covering from over these holes.

o 1 1) Install one 4mm blind nut in each of
the four holes in the strut mounting blocks. The
blind nuts should be mounted on the inside edge
of the blocks. See photo # 11 below.

o 16) When completely satisfied with the
alignment of the top wing use threadlock on all
of the metal cabane screws and nuts and tighten
them completely to lock the wing's alignment
in place.

o 17) Using a pen draw a line on each side
of the outer interplane struts where they meet
the bottom surface of the top wing.

Photo # 1 1

TIP

BLIND

NUTS

o 12) Remove the top wing. Plug the two
interplane struts into the corresponding slots
in the bottom of the top wing. The predrilled
holes in the struts should be on the bottom
and the edge of the struts covered in red should
face the leading edge of the wing.

o 13) Reinstall the top wing making sure
the two outer interplane struts completely en­gage the two slots in the top side of the bot­tom wing.

o 14) Secure the outer interplane struts in place
using the four 3mm x 16mm machine screws and
four 3mm flat washers. The machine screws pass
through the strut and thread into the blind nuts
installed in the mounting blocks.

MOUNTING THE TOP WING

o 15) Remove the ailerons from the top
wing. Attach the incidence meter to the top
wing and check the incidence. The meter
should read either 0º or -1º.

o 18) Remove the top wing and outer
interplane struts. Using a modeling knife, re­move the covering from the interplane struts
from just inside the lines you drew on them.

o 19) Mix up a generous amount of Kwik
Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Glue the outer
interplane struts into the TOP WING ONLY.
Before the epoxy cures, reinstall the top wing
and secure the interplane struts into the bottom
wing with the four machine screws. Allow the
epoxy to fully cure before proceeding. See

photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

BOTTOM WING

TOP WING

CONTROL SURFACE

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

o {2} Top Wing Ailerons w/Hinges
o {2} Bottom Wing Ailerons w/Hinges
o {2} Elevator Halves
o {1} Rudder
o {1} Tail Wheel Wire w/Nylon Bearing
o {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel
o {1} Wheel Collar w/3mm x 6mm Machine Screw

If the incidence meter does not read 0º

or -1º then you may need to adjust the
metal cabane struts and /or shim the space
between the rear metal cabane strut and the
wing. We have provided a hardwood cabane
shim (D-31) for this purpose.

HINGE THE ELEV A TOR HALVES

o 1) The C/A hinges have already been
glued into the two elevator halves. Working
with one half at a time, slide the elevator and
it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the
trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Slide

10

the elevator in until it is tight against the trail­ing edge of the stabilizer. The maximum hinge
gap should be no more than 1/32”, but there
should be about a 1/16” gap between the coun­terbalance section of the elevator and the tip
of the stabilizer. See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

STABILIZER

o 7) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
5 Minute Epoxy. Apply the epoxy to only
those parts of the tail wheel wire that will be
glued to the rudder, being careful not to get
any epoxy on the nylon bearing. Pack epoxy
into the hole you drilled in the leading edge
of the rudder also.

o 8) Insert the tail wheel wire into the rudder.
Clean up any excess epoxy using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol. See photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

1/32”

ELEVATOR

o 2) With the elevator tight against the sta­bilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º.
Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the
glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the elevator up
and down about five to ten times to free it up.

o 3) Repeat steps # 1 and # 2 for the sec­ond elevator half.

INST ALL THE TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBL Y

o 4) Using a ruler, measure up from the bot­tom of the rudder at the leading edge 1-1/8”
and place a mark.

o 5) Using a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole into
the rudder at the mark made. Using a model­ing knife, cut a groove from the hole down to
the bottom of the rudder. Make the hole deep
enough for the tail wheel wire and the nylon
bearing to set flush in. See figure # 7 below.

EPOXY

TAIL WHEEL

WIRE

EPOXY

NYLON BEARING

HINGE THE RUDDER

o 9) Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over the lower hinge slot and
nylon bearing slot precut in the back edge of
the fuselage. Use the rudder to help locate
the slots.

o 10) The C/A hinges have already been
glued into the rudder. Slide the rudder and
it's hinges, including the nylon bearing tab into
their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of
the vertical stabilizer and lower section of the
fuselage. Slide the rudder in until it is tight
against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The
maximum hinge gap should be no more than
1/32”. See photo # 15 below.

Figure # 7

DRILL HOLE

CUT GROOVE

o 6) Apply oil or Vaseline to the hinge bear­ing to prevent epoxy from gluing the bearing
solid to the tail wheel wire.

11

Photo # 15

1/32”

TAIL WHEEL

WIRE

NYLON

BEARING

o11) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
30 Minute Epoxy. Remove the rudder and
apply a thin layer of epoxy to only the tab on
the nylon bearing. Be careful not to get any
epoxy on the tail wheel wire.

o 12) Slide the rudder and it's hinges, in­cluding the nylon bearing tab into their precut
hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical
stabilizer and lower section of the fuselage.
With the rudder tight against the stabilizer,
rotate the rudder to one side about 45º. Apply
six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the ex­posed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to
cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the
rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This
is normal. Gently move the rudder back and
forth about five to ten times to free it up.

INST ALL THE TAIL WHEEL

o 13) Install the 25mm diameter tail wheel
on the tail wheel wire. Secure the tail wheel
in place using one wheel collar and 3mm x
6mm machine screw. The tail wheel should
turn without binding.

HINGE THE BOTTOM WING AILERONS

o 14) The C/A hinges have already been
glued into the two ailerons. Working with one
aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's
hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trail­ing edge of the wing, making sure the torque
rod is firmly seated in the precut hole in the
leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron
in until it is tight against the trailing edge of
the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be
no more than 1/32” and the tip of the aileron
should be flush with the tip of the wing.

The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from
gluing the torque rod to the trailing edge of

the wing.

o 16) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of ep­oxy to the aileron torque rod. Also use a tooth­pick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole
in the aileron.

o 17) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into
their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of
the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly
seated in the precut hole in the leading edge
of the aileron. With the aileron tight against
the wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º.
Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to
the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the
glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the aileron up
and down about five to ten times to free it up.

o 18) Repeat steps # 14 - # 17 for the sec­ond aileron.

HINGE THE TOP WING AILERONS

o 19) The C/A hinges have already been
glued into the two ailerons. Working with
one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's
hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trail­ing edge of the wing. Slide the aileron in un­til it is tight against the trailing edge of the
wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no
more than 1/32” and the tip of the aileron
should be flush with the tip of the wing.

o 15) When satisfied with the fit, remove the
aileron and slide a small piece of waxed paper
between the aileron torque rod and the trailing
edge of the wing. See photo # 16 below.

Photo # 16

WAXED

PAPER

TORQUE

ROD

o 20) With the aileron tight against the
wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º. Ap­ply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the
exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue
to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured,
the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move.
This is normal. Gently move the aileron up
and down about five to ten times to free it up.

o 21) Repeat steps # 19 and # 20 for the
opposite aileron.

12

ENGINE MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {2} Nylon Mounting Beams
o {4} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws
o {4} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws
o {16}3mm Flat Washers
o {8} 3mm Lock Nuts

MOUNTING ENGINE TO MOTOR MOUNT

o 1) Using a clamp or a vise, align the two
motor mount beams and clamp them together.
The beam halves are universal and the web­bing should face the outside edges. See photo

# 17 below.

Photo # 17

o 2) Mark the locations of the four engine
mounting holes on the beams using a pencil.
For the engine to align properly with the front
of the cowling, it is important that the front
edge of the engine's drive washer be 4-7/8”
forward from the rear edge of the mounting
beams.

o 3) When satisfied with the alignment of
the engine, remove the beams from the
clamp and drill 1/8” holes through the
mounting beams at the four engine mount­ing hole locations.

ALIGNING THE MOTOR MOUNT

o 5) The engine is mounted sideways on the
firewall. Using a ruler and pen, measure and
draw a vertical centerline on the firewall.

o 6) Measure down from the top of the fu­selage 1-1/2” and draw a horizontal line on
the firewall. See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

1-1/2”1-1/2”

o 7 ) With your engine still installed on the
motor mount beams, use a ruler and measure
the width between the predrilled mounting holes
in the motor mount. This distance will vary
depending on the brand and size of the engine
you have chosen. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

MOUNTING

BEAM

D = Distance

Between Predrilled

Holes In Beams

(Will Vary

Depending Engine

Used)

D

MOUNTING

BEAM

o 8) Divide the measurement found in step
# 7 in half. Measure this resulting distance
and draw one horizontal line above and be­low the horizontal centerline.

o 4) Mount the engine to the mounting
beams using the four 3mm x 25mm machine
screws, eight 3mm flat washers, four 3mm lock
nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely.

If using an engine equipped with a re-

mote needle valve we recommend
mounting the needle valve to the engine prior
to installing the engine on the motor mount
beams.

o 9) On the two horizontal lines you just
drew, measure and place marks 3/8” to the
left and 1-1/4” to the right of the vertical
centerline (looking at the firewall). See photo

# 20 below.

Photo # 20

13

o10) Hold the motor mount assembly up
to the firewall and double check that the four
intersecting lines line up with the four pre­drilled holes in the motor mount.

o 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully
smooth each end of the two tubes. This will
prevent the fuel line from being cut.

The motor mount is offset to the

airplane's left side (looking from the rear)
to compensate for the right thrust built into
the firewall. Offsetting the engine will allow
the spinner to line up with cowl ring when it
is installed later.

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO FIREW ALL

o 11) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the mount­ing holes through the firewall for the motor
mount.

o 12) Mount the motor mount assembly to
the firewall using the four 3mm x 20mm ma­chine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four
3mm lock nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts
completely. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

o 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through
the rubber stopper until 1/2” protrudes from
the front of the stopper. Slide the 20mm di­ameter front squash plate over the tubes at the
front of the stopper and slide the 18mm diam­eter rear squash plate over the tubes at the rear
of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 20mm ma­chine screw into the center hole in the front
squash plate, then screw it through the stop­per and into the rear squash plate. Do not com­pletely tighten the screw at this time.

o 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two
tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent
tube. When the stopper assembly is installed
in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest
just inside the bubble in the top of the tank.

o 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the
weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the
fuel pickup tube. See photo # 22 below.

FUEL TANK

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Molded Fuel Tank
o {1} Rubber Stopper
o {1} 20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate
o {1} 18mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate
o {1} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw
o {1} Weighted Metal Pick-Up
o {3} Aluminum Tubes
o {1} 90mm Silicon Fuel Tube

FUEL T ANK ASSEMBLY

o 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 dif­ferent length aluminum tubes. Discard the
shortest of the three. It will not be used.

The 50mm length tube is used for the fuel

line pickup and the 80mm tube is used
for the vent/pressure line.

Photo # 22

FRONT

SQUASH

PLATE

RUBBER

STOPPER

REAR SQUASH

PLATE

VENT TUBE

FUEL TUBING

PICK-UP

o 6) Test fit the stopper assembly into the
tank. It may be necessary to remove some of
the flashing around the tank opening using a
modeling knife. If flashing is present, make
sure none falls into the tank.

o 7) With the stopper assembly in place the
weighted pickup should be about 3/8” away
from the rear of the tank and move freely in­side the tank. The vent tube should be inside
the bubble in the tank, but not rub against the
tank. Adjust the tubes accordingly.

14

o8) When satisfied with the alignment of
the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm
machine screw until the rubber stopper ex­pands and seals the tank opening. Do not over­tighten the assembly as this could cause the
tank to split.

FUEL T ANK INSTALLA TION

o 9) Slide the fuel tank into the fuel tank
compartment in the front of the airplane. The
bubble in the tank should face the top of the
fuselage and the tank should rest on the balsa
fuel tank support floor. The stopper assembly
should also engage the predrilled hole in the
firewall.

o 10) Secure the fuel tank in place using
foam rubber. Seal any gaps between the stop­per assembly and the firewall using silicon
sealer. Be careful not to get any sealer inside
the aluminum tubing.

Photo # 23

Enlarge hole in firewall

to allow clevis to pass

through.

PUSHROD

Photo # 24

PUSHROD

WIRE

WIRE

(FOUR STROKE SET UP)

NYLON
CLEVIS

(TWO STROKE SET UP)

MAIN LANDING GEAR

THROTTLE

ARM

NYLON
CLEVIS

THROTTLE

ARM

THROTTLE LINKAGE

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} 1.5mm x 300mm Wire Threaded One End
o {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

o 1) Thread the nylon clevis onto the
threaded end of the 300mm pushrod wire.

This clevis has a 1.5mm I.D. hole that

matches the diameter of the pushrod wire.
All other clevises in the kit use a larger diam­eter hole for larger wire.

o 2) Locate and drill a 3/32” hole through
the firewall for the throttle pushrod wire to
pass through. The hole should be level with
the throttle arm, but moved over enough to
clear the fuel tank. Be careful not to drill into
the fuel tank.

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
o {1} Wood Gear Cover (D-29)
o {2} Wheel Pants
o {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels
o {3} 4mm x12mm Machine Screws
o {2} 4mm x 35mm Axle Screws
o {4} 2mm x 8mm Wood Screws
o {2} 4mm Flat Washers
o {2} 4mm Hex Nuts
o {2} 4mm Lock Nuts
o {4} 4mm Nylon Spacers

INST ALLING THE GEAR BRACKET

o 1) Install the prebent aluminum gear
bracket using the three 4mm x 12mm ma­chine screws. The gear bracket fits into the
gear slot just ahead of the bottom wing open­ing. Three 4mm blind nuts have been
preinstalled. Tighten the screws completely.

See photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

GEAR BRACKET

o 3) Slide the pushrod wire through the hole
and into the fuselage. Attach the clevis to the
throttle arm. Use a pair of pliers and make the
necessary bends in the wire so it does not bind
when moved from idle to the full throttle po­sition. See photos # 23 & # 24 at top right.

15

MOUNTING

SCREWS

o2) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond
5 Minute Epoxy. Use a couple of small dabs
of epoxy to glue the balsa gear cover (D-29)
onto the aluminum gear, flush with the bot­tom of the fuselage.

There are three holes predrilled through

the block that allow the screws to be re­moved should the gear need servicing. You
can leave these holes covered by the covering
or remove the covering from over them now
using a modeling knife.

INSTALLING THE WHEEL P ANTS

o 1) Working with one wheel pant at a time,
use a Dremel Tool and remove the plastic that
covers the wheel opening on the bottom of
the wheel pant.

o 5) Slide two 4mm nylon spacers over the
axle screw and up against the wheel. Thread
one 4mm hex nut onto the axle screw.

o 6) Tighten the hex nut against the nylon
spacers as tight as it can be, but still allow
the wheel to spin free on the axle. Secure
the nut in place by carefully applying a couple
of drops of Kwik Bond Thick C/A to the
threads. Allow the C/A to fully cure. See

photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

NYLON

SPACERS

AXLE SCREW

HEX NUT

Look carefully at each side of the wheel

pant and you will notice a molded dimple.
One dimple is about 1/8” higher on one side
than the other. If you will be flying off a hard
surface we recommend you drill out the dimple
that is higher. If flying off of grass we rec­ommend you drill out the dimple that is lower.
This will raise the wheel pant higher on the
axle and give more clearance between the
wheel pant and the ground.

o 2) Using a 5/32” drill bit, drill out only
the one dimple that you choose.

o 3) Using a modeling knife, cut a slot from
the hole down to the wheel pant opening. See

photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

REMOVE

COVER

CUT SLOT

o 4) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel onto
one 4mm x 35mm axle screw. The wheel
should go on with flat side of the hub first.

o 7) Slide one 4mm washer over the axle
screw and up against the hex nut. Carefully
slip the wheel and axle assembly into the
wheel pant. The axle screw should slip firmly
into the slot in the wheel pant and the flat
washer should be positioned inside the wheel
pant.

o 8) Slide the axle bolt through the pre­drilled 4mm hole in the aluminum gear
bracket and secure in place using one 4mm
lock nut. Tighten the lock nut completely,
at the same time making sure the hex nut does
not come loose. Double check that the wheel
does not bind when rotated.

o 9) Repeat steps # 1 - # 8 for the opposite
side.

ADJUSTING THE WHEEL P ANTS

o 10) With both wheels and wheel pants in­stalled on the gear bracket, set the airplane on
it's wheels on a level surface. Adjust the wheel
pants so the rear portion of the wheel pant is
level with the ground. Double check that both
wheel pants are level with each other.

16

o11) When satisfied with the alignment,
secure the wheel pants in place by installing
two 2mm x 8mm wood screws through the
two predrilled holes in the gear bracket and
into the side of the wheel pant. Do this for
both wheel pants. See photo # 28 below.

Photo # 28

o 3) Hold the two plates in place and trace
around them using a pen. Remove the plates
and using a modeling knife, remove the cov­ering from just inside the lines.

o 4) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5
Minute Epoxy and glue the plates in place.
Allow the epoxy to cure completely.

WOOD

SCREWS

AILERON SERVO

PARTS REQUIRED

o {2} 2mm x 85mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
o {2} Nylon Clevises
o {2} Nylon Snap Keepers
o {2} Wing Servo Mounting Plate (W-25)
o {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns

INST ALLING THE AILERON SERVO

o 1) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto your servo. Test fit the servo into
the precut servo hole in the top side of the
lower wing. The output shaft should be point­ing towards the leading edge of the wing.

Because the size of servos differ, you may

need to adjust the size of the precut open­ing. You may also need to use a modeling
knife and cut a groove to allow room for the
servo wire to exit the hole.

o 2) Remove the servo and position the two
servo mounting plates (W-25) on the wing.
The plates should be centered from side to side
and the inside edge should be even with the
servo opening. See photo # 29 below.

o 5) Install the servo using the wood screws
provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16”
pilot holes through the plates before install­ing the screws. This will help prevent the
wood from splitting.

INST ALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE

o 6) Thread one nylon adjustable control
horn onto each aileron torque rod. Thread
them on until the are 7/8” above the top sur­face of the wing. See figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

ADJUSTABLE

7/8”

CONTROL HORN

o 7) Thread one nylon clevis onto each of
the two 2mm x 85mm threaded rods with L­bends.

o 8) With the servo centered, install one
dual takeoff servo arm onto the servo. The
arm should be installed so it is parallel with
the trailing edge of the wing.

o 9) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape,
taped between the ailerons and the trailing
edge of the wing, to hold the two ailerons in
neutral.

Photo # 29

MOUNTING

PLATE

MOUNTING

PLATE

o 10) Snap the clevises onto the adjustable
control horns. With the servo arm and aile­rons centered, push the L-bends down through
the holes in the servo arm. Adjust the length
of the wires by turning the nylon clevises in
or out until the correct length is achieved. Hold
the wires in place using two nylon snap keep­ers. See photo # 30 at top right.

17

Photo # 30

CLEVIS

CONTROL

HORN

PUSHROD

WIRE

SNAP

KEEPER

SERVO

ARM

servos should be pointing towards the front
of the fuselage. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

R

E

o 11) When satisfied with the alignment,
install the servo arm set screw and remove the
masking tape from the ailerons.

RADIO INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Fuselage Servo Tray (D-15)
o {2} Balsa Support Rails (D-30)

INST ALLING THE SERVO TRA Y

o 1) Trial fit the servo tray (D-15) in posi­tion inside the fuselage. The tray should rest
on top of the preinstalled balsa supports glued
to the fuselage sides. The front edge of the
tray should be 1-1/4” behind the front bulk­head. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

E = ELEVATOR
T = THROTTLE
R = RUDDER

T

Because the size of servos differ, you may

need to adjust the size of the precut open­ings. You may also need to use a modeling
knife and cut a groove to allow room for the
servo wires.

o 4) Install the servos using the wood
screws provided with your radio system. Drill
1/16” pilot holes through the tray before in­stalling the screws. This will help prevent the
wood from splitting.

INST ALLING THE RECEIVER & BATTER Y

o 5) Plug the servo leads into the receiver.
Looking from behind the airplane the left servo
is the for throttle, the center servo is for el­evator and the right servo is for rudder. Plug
the aileron extension and switch that came with
your radio system into the receiver as well.

FRONT

EDGE

o 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the
tray and mix up a generous amount of Kwik
Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Glue the tray in place
using the epoxy. Before the epoxy sets, glue
the two balsa support rails (D-30) in place.
They are positioned on top of the servo tray,
directly above the lower support rails. Allow
the epoxy to cure fully before proceeding.

INST ALLING THE SERVOS

o 3) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto your remaining three servos. Test
fit the servos into the precut servo holes in the
servo tray. The output shaft of the center servo
should be pointing towards the back of the
fuselage. The output shaft of the two outer

o 6) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in
foam rubber to protect them from vibration.
Position them under the servo tray, using ex­tra foam rubber to hold them in place.

Because of the length of the Ultimates

nose, the receiver and battery should be
positioned at the rear of the servo compart­ment. This will be especially true if using a
four stroke engine.

INST ALLING THE SWITCH

o 7) Mount the switch to the fuselage side
at the rear of the servo compartment. Use the
faceplate of the switch itself to locate at make
the necessary cutouts and holes.

18

o8) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole
through the side of the fuselage for the an­tenna to exit. Route the antenna out the fuse­lage and secure it to the vertical fin using a
rubber band. See figure # 9 below.

Figure # 9

CUT

o 5) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire
using wire cutters. See photo # 33 below.

SERVO

ARM

CONNECTOR

PUSHROD

WIRE

Photo # 33

ANTENNA

MODIFIED SERVO

ARM

RUBBER

BAND

THROTTLE LINKAGE

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE CONNECTOR

o 1) Install one adjustable servo connector
through the second hole out from the center
of one servo arm. You may have to enlarge
the hole in the servo arm to accommodate the
servo connector. Remove the excess material
from the servo arm using wire cutters. See

figure # 10 below.

Figure # 10

SERVO ARM

NUT

After installing the adjustable servo con-

nector apply a small drop of Kwik Bond
Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the
connector from loosening during flight.

o 2) Turn on the radio system. Check to
ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is
moving in the correct direction.

o 3) Slide the adjustable servo connector/
throttle arm assembly over the end of the throttle
pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and
the throttle trim at their lowest positions.

SET SCREW

CONNECTOR

SERVO

o 6) Test the movement of the throttle
pushrod. Full forward stick and full forward
trim should result in the carburetor barrel
opening completely. Full down stick and full
forward trim should result in the approximate
idle setting. Full down stick and full down
trim should result in the carburetor barrel clos­ing fully.

o 7) When satisfied that the pushrod link­age is adjusted correctly and no binding is
present, install the servo arm set screw.

RUDDER PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Nylon Back Plate
o {2} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {1} 700mm Nylon Pushrod
o {1} 2mm x 120mm Wire Threaded Both Ends
o {1} 2mm x 85mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend
o {1} Nylon Snap Keeper
o {1} Nylon Clevis
o {1} Pushrod Support (D-32)

INSTALLING THE RUDDER CONTROL HORN

o 1) The centerline of the rudder control horn
is located on the left side of the rudder (looking
from behind) 1-3/8” up from the bottom of the
rudder. Position the control horn so the clevis
attachment holes are directly in-line with the
hinge line. The control horn should also be par­allel with the hinge line. See figure # 11 below.

Figure # 11

o 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel
fully closed. Attach the servo arm to the servo
angled back about 45º from center. With the
carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set
screw in the adjustable servo connector.

19

o 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use
a 3/32” drill bit and the control horn as a guide
and drill the mounting holes through the rud­der.

o 10) Slide the pushrod back into the
pushrod housing. Snap the clevis onto the rud­der control horn and use a couple of pieces of
masking tape to hold the rudder in neutral.

o 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder
by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws
through the control horn mounting base,
through the rudder and into the backplate.
Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten
them. You do not want to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

o4) Thread the 2mm x 120mm threaded
wire into one end of the 700mm nylon
pushrod. For safety, thread the wire no less
than 5/16” into the pushrod.

o 5) Thread the nylon clevis onto the op­posite end of the 2mm x 120mm threaded wire.
It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto
the wire also.

o 6) Using a modeling knife remove the
covering from over the rudder pushrod exit
slot. Looking from the back of the airplane,
the slot is located on the left side of the fuse­lage, 6” forward of the rudder hinge line and
1-1/4” below the horizontal stabilizer.

o 11) Locate a long servo arm and using
wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.
Install the L-bend in the 85mm wire into the
outer hole in the servo arm. Secure the wire
in place using one nylon snap keeper.

o 12) With the rudder and rudder servo in
neutral, install the servo arm onto the servo.
The arm should be positioned perpendicular
to the fuselage sides.

o 13) Using a pen, place a mark on the ny­lon rudder pushrod where the tip of the wire
overlaps it. Use a modeling knife and cut off
the nylon pushrod 5/16” ahead of the mark.
This will leave enough space so the threaded
wire can thread into the pushrod at least 5/16”.

o 14) Thread the wire into the pushrod.
You can thread it in further or back it out to
achieve the correct length.

o 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon
pushrod into the fuselage from the back. Snap
the clevis onto the rudder control horn. Move
the rudder back and forth to ensure there is no
binding. See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

CONTROL

HORN

CLEVIS

PUSHROD

WIRE

o 8) Remove the pushrod from the pushrod
housing. Using a ruler and pen, measure for­ward on the pushrod housing 4” from where
the pushrod housing enters the servo compart­ment from the rear bulkhead.

o 9) Using a modeling knife, cut off the
pushrod housing at this mark.

o 15) When satisfied with the alignment,
install the servo arm set screw and remove the
masking tape from the rudder. See photo #

35 below.

Photo # 35

SERVO

ARM

SNAP

KEEPER

PUSHROD

WIRE

PUSHROD

PUSHROD HOUSING

SUPPORT

o 16) Move the rudder back and forth.
There may be some flex present in the pushrod
just before it gets to the rudder servo. If so,
glue one pushrod support (D-32) between the
pushrod housing and the servo tray using a
small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy.

See photo # 35 above.

20

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

o {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Back Plates
o {4} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {2} 600mm Nylon Pushrods
o {2} 2mm x 100mm Wire Threaded Both Ends
o {3} Nylon Clevises (one w/1.5mm I.D. Hole)
o {1} Nylon Joiner Plate
o {2} 2.2mm x 10mm Wood Screws
o {4} 2mm Flat Washers
o {1} 2mm x 20mm Machine Screw
o {1} 2mm Hex Nut
o {1} Pushrod Support (D-32)

o 4) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole

through the center of the nylon joiner plate.
Slide a 2mm washer onto the 2mm x 20mm
machine screw. Slide the screw through the
center hole of the nylon joiner plate.

o 5) Slide a second 2mm washer onto the
machine screw and then thread on the 2mm
nut. Tighten the nut completely and secure it
in place using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. Let the
C/A cure completely and double check to en­sure the screw and nut do not move.

INSTALLING THE ELEV ATOR CONTROL HORNS

o 1 ) The centerline of the elevator control
horns are located on the bottom side of each
elevator half, 1” out from the fuselage sides.
Position the control horns so the clevis attach­ment holes are directly in-line with the hinge
line. The control horns should also be parallel
with the hinge line. See figure # 12 below.

Figure # 12

o 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use
a 3/32” drill bit and the control horns as a guide
and drill the mounting holes through the el­evator halves.

o 3) Mount the control horns to the eleva­tor halves by inserting the 2mm x 15mm ma­chine screws through the control horn mount­ing bases, through each elevator half and into
the backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not
overtighten them. You do not want to crush
the wood.

INST ALLING THE PUSHROD JOINER

The elevator control system uses two

pushrods which are connected together
just before they reach the elevator servo. See

figure # 13 below.

Figure # 13

PUSHROD

TUBES

NYLON

PLATE

2.2mm x 10mm

WOOD SCREW

MACHINE SCREW

2mm WASHER

2mm

WASHER

2mm x 20mm

We don't recommend using any types of

thread lock or C/A accelerators. The
chemicals in these items can destroy the ny­lon parts.

o 6) Slide one 2mm washer over two

2.2mm x 10mm wood screws. Slide the wood
screws through the two outer holes in the ny­lon plate and thread them into the two 600mm
nylon pushrods. See photo # 36 below.

Photo # 36

PUSHROD

WOOD

SCREW

TUBES

NUT

NYLON

PLATE

MACHINE

SCREW

We highly recommend installing the two

wood screws using Kwik Bond 5 Minute
Epoxy to help prevent any possible chance of
them pull out during flight.

INSTALLING THE ELEVA TOR PUSHROD

o 7) Thread one nylon clevis with 1.5mm
I.D. hole onto the end of the 2mm x 20mm
machine screw.

o 8) Using a modeling knife remove the
covering from over the two elevator pushrod
exit slots. Looking from the back of the air­plane, the slots are located on each side of the
fuselage, 6” forward of the rudder hinge line
and 1” below the horizontal stabilizer.

o 9) Using a ruler and pen, measure for­ward on both pushrod housings 4” from
where the pushrod housings enter the servo
compartment from the rear bulkhead.

21

o10) Using a modeling knife, cut off the
pushrod housings at this mark.

o 11) Slide the nylon pushrods into the
pushrod housings and out the exit slots.

o 12) Locate a long servo arm and using
wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.
With the elevator servo in neutral, install the
servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be
positioned perpendicular to the fuselage sides.

o 13) Snap the clevis through the outer hole
in the servo arm.

o 14) Thread one clevis onto one end of
each 2mm x 100mm threaded wire.

o 19) Move the elevator halves up and
down. There may be some flex present in
the pushrod just before it gets to the elevator
servo. If so, position one pushrod support
(D-32) between the two pushrod housings
and the servo tray. Using a small amount of
Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy glue the hous­ings to the support and the support to the tray.

AILERON LINKS

PARTS REQUIRED

o {4} Nylon Control Horns w/Nylon Back Plates
o {8} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws
o {2} 2mm x 200mm Wire Threaded w/L-Bend
o {2} Nylon Clevises
o {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

INST ALLING THE CONTROL HORNS

o 15) Snap one clevis/wire assembly onto
each elevator control horn. Use a couple of
pieces of masking tape to hold each elevator
half in neutral.

o 16) Working with one half only, use a pen
and place a mark on the nylon elevator pushrod
where the tip of the wire overlaps it. Use a
modeling knife and cut off the nylon pushrod
5/16” behind the mark. This will leave enough
space so the threaded wire can thread into the
pushrod at least 5/16”.

o 17) Thread the wire into the pushrod.
You can thread it in further or back it out
to achieve the correct length. Repeat steps
# 14 - # 17 for the opposite side.

o 18) When satisfied with the alignment,
install the servo arm set screw and remove the
masking tape from the elevator halves. See

photo # 37 below.

Photo # 37

o 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut
the four control horns to shape. See figure #

14 below.

Figure # 14

o 2) The control horns are located both on
the top and bottom ailerons. They should be
positioned 6-1/4” in from the tip of each aile­ron. The control horns for the top wing mount
on the bottom of the ailerons and the control
horns for the bottom wing mount on the top
of the ailerons. Mount the control horns with
the clevis attachment holes facing the back of
the airplane. See photo # 38 below.

Photo # 38

TRAILING

EDGE

PUSHROD

SUPPORT

SERVO

ARM

CLEVIS

JOINER

ASSEMBLY

CONTROL

HORN

o 3) When satisfied with the alignment of
all four control horns, use a 3/32” drill bit and
the control horns as a guide and drill the
mounting holes through the ailerons.

22

o4) Mount the control horns to the aile­rons by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine
screws through the control horn mounting
bases, through the ailerons and into the
backplates. Tighten the screws, but do not
overtighten them. You do not want to crush
the wood.

INST ALLING THE AILERON LINKS

o 5) Plug in the aileron servo to the re­ceiver and install the top and bottom wings.
Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to
hold the top wing ailerons in neutral. Turn
on your radio system and center the bottom
wing ailerons.

o 6) Thread a nylon clevis onto the threaded
end of each 200mm wire. Slide the L-bend of
each wire through the lower hole in the top
aileron control horns. Secure the wires in place
using two nylon snap keepers.

o 7) With all four ailerons in neutral, ad­just the nylon clevis and snap it through the
top hole in the lower control horns. See

photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

PUSHROD

WIRE

SNAP KEEPER

NYLON
CLEVIS

CONTROL

HORN

CANOPY

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Clear Canopy
o {4} 2mm x 10mm Wood Screws

TRIMMING THE CANOPY

o 1) Using a modeling knife or Lexan
Canopy Scissors, cut out the canopy along the
molded scribe lines.

o 2) Trial fit the canopy. When you have
adjusted the canopy so it is straight, hold it in
place using a couple pieces of masking tape.

o 3) Using a pen, place a mark on both sides
of the canopy at the front and back. Place the
marks where the canopy meets the bottom of
the black stripe on the fuselage sides.

o 4) Using a 3/32 drill bit, drill four
mounting holes through the canopy only.
Locate two holes on each side, near the cock­pit. Use the photo below for reference. See

photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

MOUNTING

HOLE

PLACE

MARK

MOUNTING

HOLE

PLACE
MARK

o 5) Secure the canopy in place using four
2mm x 10mm wood screws threaded into the
fuselage.

o 6) Remove the canopy. Using a model­ing knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim the
canopy across the bottom of each side at the
marks you made earlier. Install the optional
aftermarket pilot at this also.

o 7) To give the canopy a better appearance
on the fuselage, we suggest you paint the por­tions that overlap the top of the fuselage. We
used Coverite 21st Century Red # COVR0102.
Remember to lightly sand any portion that will
be painted so the paint sticks. Use white and
black trim tape to match the area of the canopy
that overlaps the sides of the fuselage.

COWLING

PARTS REQUIRED

o {1} Fiberglass Cowling
o {4} 3mm x 6mm Wood Screws

MOUNTING THE COWL

o 1) Remove the carburetor and muffler
from the engine. Use plastic or masking tape
to cover the carburetor, muffler and glow plug
openings in the engine to prevent dust from
entering.

23

o2) Using a Dremel Tool with a sanding
drum attachment, carefully open the two air
inlets in the front of the cowl. Trim away a
small amount at a time so you don't remove
too much material. See photo # 41 below.

Photo # 41

MAKE

CUT OUT

(BOTH SIDES)

o 7) Remove the cowl and enlarge the holes
in only the cowl using a 5/64” drill bit. Rein­stall the cowl and secure it in place using the
four wood screws. See photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

MOUNTING HOLE

LOCATIONS

o 3) Slide the cowl onto the fuselage. In­stall your spinner backplate onto the en­gine and secure it in place. Use the
backplate to align the front of the cowl.
The spinner backplate diameter should
match the outer diameter of the spinner ring
on the cowl, not fit inside it. It may also
be necessary to trim the bottom of the cowl
so it does not interfere with the landing
gear.

o 4) With the front of the cowl aligned
with the spinner backplate, double check
that the cowl lines up with the fuselage.
When satisfied with the fit, use a couple of
pieces of masking tape to hold the cowl
firmly in position.

o 5) The cowl is held in place using four
3mm x 6mm wood screws threaded into the
firewall. Two screws are located on the
top, one on each side towards the bottom
of the cowl. Use a ruler and pen to locate
and mark the mounting screw locations.

o 6) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill four pi­lot holes through the cowl and about 1/2”
into the firewall at the locations you
marked.

o 8) Locate and the areas of the cowl that
need to be removed for access to the high and
low speed needle valves, glow plug, muffler
and if necessary, engine head clearance.

o 9) Remove the cowl and make these cut­outs using a Dremel Tool with a sanding drum
attachment. Holes for the needle valves can
be cut using a drill bit. We highly suggest the
use of a Dubro Fuel Filler Valve to fuel the
airplane. This should be mounted to the cowl­ing at this time also.

o 10) Install your muffler (stock or Pitt's
Style) and connect your fuel and pressure lines
to the fuel tank and fueling valve.

If you are using a two stroke engine with

a stock muffler a 1” muffler extension
will be necessary. No extension is necessary
if using a four stroke engine or a two stroke
engine with an aftermarket Pitt's Style muf­fler.

o 11) Once you are satisfied with the fit of
the cowl and all access holes have been cut,
remove the cowl and paint it with Coverite
21st Century Gloss Clear # COVR1265 to pre­vent raw fuel from damaging the paint.

o 12) After the clear coat has dried, connect
the fuel lines to the muffler, fuel filler valve
and carburetor. Reinstall the cowl and secure
it in place. Install the prop and spinner.

24

BALANCE

o1) It is critical that your airplane be bal­anced correctly. Improper balance will cause
your plane to lose control and crash. The

center of gravity is located 4” back from
the leading edge of the top wing, at the
center section. This location is recom-

mended for initial test flying and trimming.
There is a 3/8” margin forward and aft, but
it is not recommended that the center of grav­ity be located any further back than 4-3/8”.

Balance the Ultimate right side up with the
fuel tank empty.

o 2) Mount the wings to the fuselage.
Using a couple of pieces of masking tape,
place them on the bottom side of the top
wing 4” back from the leading edge, at the
center section.

o 3) Place your fingers on the masking tape
and carefully lift the plane.

o 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane
is nose heavy. To correct this first move the
battery pack further back in the fuselage. If
this does not correct it, stick small amounts
of weight on the fuselage under the horizon­tal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the
plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the
battery and receiver forward or stick weight
onto the firewall or inside the front section of
the cowl. When balanced correctly, the air­plane should sit level or slightly nose down
when you lift it up with your fingers.

LA TERAL BALANCE

After you have balanced your Ultimate

on the C.G. you must laterally balance
it. Doing this will help the airplane track bet­ter in vertical maneuvers and loops.

o 1) Turn the airplane upside down. With
the wings level carefully lift the airplane by
the engine crankshaft and the tail wheel
bracket. This may require two people to make
it easier.

o 2) If one side of the wing falls, that side
is heavier than the opposite. Add small
amounts of lead weight to the bottom side of
the lower wing. Follow this procedure until
the wings stay level when you lift the airplane.

CONTROL THROWS

o 1 ) We highly recommend setting up the
Ultimate using the control throws listed be­low. We have listed control throws for both
initial test flying/sport flying and aerobatic
flying.

o 2) Turn on the radio system and with the
trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center
the control surfaces by making adjustments
to the clevises. The servo arms should be cen­tered also.

o 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron
control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and
check the amount of the control throw in each
surface. The control throws should be mea-

sured at the widest point of each surface!

INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING

Ailerons: 3/16” up 3/16” down
Elevator: 7/16” up 7/16” down
Rudder: 1” right 1” left

Once you have flown and trimmed the

Ultimate, the balance point can be moved
forward or aft 3/8” to change the flight perfor­mance. Moving the balance point back will
cause the Ultimate to be more responsive, but
less stable. Moving the balance point forward

will cause the Ultimate to be more stable, but
less responsive. Do not fly the Ultimate be-

yond the recommended balance range or an
uncontrollable crash could result!

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 5/16” up 5/16” down
Elevator: 3/4” up 3/4” down
Rudder: 1-1/2” right 1-1/2” left

Do not use the aerobatic settings for ini­tial test flying or sport flying.

25

o4) By moving the position of the clevis at
the control horn toward the outermost hole, you
will decrease the amount of throw of that con­trol surface. Moving the clevis toward the con­trol surface will increase the amount of throw.

FLYING

The Ultimate is designed for those pilots who
are experienced in flying sport models. It is
in no way a trainer. If you do not feel com­fortable that you are able to test fly the air­plane don't hesitate to ask someone for some
help getting it tested and trimmed out. Typi­cally aerobatic airplanes, such as the Ultimate,
require some different flying techniques that
you might not be familiar with. It is very im­portant to let the airplane get up to flying speed
before lifting off. Pulling the plane off the
ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall
and crash. You should allow the plane to roll
out until the tail is completely off the ground
and flying. Allow the airplane to roll out about
50 feet more and gently pull it off the ground
and into a shallow climb out.

In the air, the plane flies like any other sport
aerobatic plane. Loops, rolls, low passes and
most all other maneuvers are all possible.
Because of the sometimes excessive control
throws used for aerobatics you must be aware
of high speed stalling. This is when the air­plane is at full power and too much up eleva­tor is input at once. It causes the airplane to
snap. To prevent this, make sure the elevator
is set up to our recommended test flying and
sport flying settings. When set up to aero­batic settings, be gentle on the elevator.

When it is time to land always bring the air­plane in with a small amount of power. It is
not a good habit to just chop the throttle and
dive the airplane to the ground. Just like the
real airplanes, gradually reduce power along
with altitude and speed. When you are about
2-3 feet off the ground, reduce power to idle
and gently let the airplane settle onto the run­way. Be careful not to over control.

NOTES

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26

TRIM CHART

After you have test flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to
begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose
trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these
observations and related corrections will result in a truer, better flying airplane.

TRIM FEA TURE MANUEVER OBSERV A TION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and Try for hands off straight Readjust linkages so Tx

random maneuvers. and level flight. trims are centered.

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers. A) Too sensitive, jerky If A) Change linkages to

controls. reduce throws.
B) Not sufficient control. If B) Increase throws.

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight flight, A) Airplane continues If A) Thrust is correct.

chop throttle quickly. level path for short

distance.
B) Airplane pitches nose up. If B ) Decrease downthrust.
C) Airplane pitches nose If C) Increase downthrust.
down.

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll A) Continues in bank for If A) Trim is good.
Longitudinal Balance to 45º bank and moderate distance.

neutralize controls. B) Nose pitches up. If B) Add nose weight.

C) Nose drops. If C) Remove nose weight.

Yaw** Into wind, do inside A) Wings level throughout. If A) Trim is correct.

loops using only elevator. B) Yaws to right in both If B) Add left rudder trim.
Repeat tests doing inside and outside loops.
outside loops from C) Yaws to left in both If C) Add right rudder trim.
inverted entry. inside and outside loops.

D) Yaws to right on inside, If D) Add left aileron trim.
and left on outside loops.
E) Yaws left on inside, and If E) Add right aileron trim.
right on outside loops.

Lateral Balance Into wind, do tight A) Wings are level and If A) Trim is correct.

inside loops. plane falls to either side.

B) Falls off to left in loops. If B) Add weight to right
Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.
C) Falls off to right in loops. If C) Add weight to left
Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.

Aileron Rigging With wings level, pull A) Climb continues along If A) Trim is correct.

to vertical climb and same path.
neutralize controls. B) Nose tends to go to If B) Raise both ailerons

inside loop. very slightly.
C) Nose tends to go to If C) Lower both ailerons
outside loop. very slightly.

*Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact. Check both.
**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Make certain both elevator
halves are even with each other and produce the same amount of control throw. Right and left references are from the
rear of the plane, as if you were in the cockpit.

27

Since you love your new Ultimate Biplane, now how
about this Global ARF performance airplane to
go along with it?

SPECIFICATIONS:

Length...............47.25in

Span.......................52in

Area.................570sq.in

Flying Weight...5-5.5lbs

Engine.....45-53 2-stroke

52-60 4-stroke

Radio..............4 channel

ü All Wood Construction
ü Prebent Aluminum Landing Gear
ü Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling
ü Prepainted Molded Wheel Pants
ü Clear Molded Canopy
ü Lightweight and Fast for Big Performance

28

Since you love your new Ultimate Biplane, now how
about this Global ARF performance airplane to
go along with it?

SPECIFICATIONS:

Length....................42in

Span.......................52in

Area.................362sq.in

Flying Weight...5-5.5lbs

Engine.....45-53 2-stroke

52-60 4-stroke

Radio..............4 channel

ü All Wood Construction
ü Custom Spinner
ü Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling
ü Molded Wheel Pants
ü Clear Molded Canopy
ü Incredible Aerobatic Performer

29

Since you love your new Ultimate Biplane, now how
about this Global ARF performance airplane to
go along with it?

SPECIFICATIONS:

Span.......................59in

Area.................620sq.in

Empty Weight......3.5lbs

Engine.....40-46 2-stroke

52-60 4-stroke

Radio...........4-5 channel

ü All Wood Construction
ü Ready for Retracts
ü Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling
ü Prepainted Wheel Pants for Fixed Gear
ü Clear Molded Canopy
ü Big Pattern Performance In a Midsize Package

30

** PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET **

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make
them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the follow­ing questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines,
seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

1.) Kit: Ultimate Biplane .46 (123820)

2.) Where did you learn about this kit?

o Magazine Ads o Friend
o Hobby Shop o Other

3.) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

o Magazine Ads o Price
o Type of Model o Box Art
o Recommendation o Other__________

4.) Did you have any trouble understanding
the written instructions? If yes, please
explain.
o Yes o No
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________

5.) Did you have any trouble understanding
any of the photographs in the instructions?
If yes, please explain.
o Yes o No
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________

6.) Were any of the kit parts:

o Damaged o Wrong Size
o Missing o Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above,
please list the parts below:
__________________________________
__________________________________

7.) Was any of the model's assembly difficult

8.) What did you like most about this kit?

9.) What did you like least about this kit?

10.) Are you satisfied with the finished model?

11.) How does this kit compare to similar kits

12.) Please list any other comments or

for you? If yes, please explain.
__________________________________
__________________________________
__________________________________

o Assembly Manual o Parts Fit
o Hardware Supplied oOther_________

__________________________________
__________________________________

o Assembly Manual o Parts Fit
o Hardware SuppliedoOther_________

__________________________________
__________________________________

o Yes o No
If no, please explain.
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________

by other manufacturers?

o Better Than o As Good
o Not as Good

suggestions you have.
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________
_________________________________

31

Fold along dotted line

Global Hobby Distributors
Attn: Customer Service Department
18480 Bandilier Circle
Fountain Valley, CA. 92728

Fold along dotted line

Place

Stamp

Here

32