Global Right Flyer 40T Mk.II Final Assembly Instructions

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Right Flyer 40T Mk.II is distributed exclusively by

Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle Fountain Valley , CA 92728

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Introduction.............................................................3

Kit Contents............................................................4

Metric Conversion Chart........................................5

Full Size Hardware Drawings..................................6

Additional Items Required......................................7

Tools and Supplies Needed.....................................7

Field Support Equipment Needed...........................7

Wing Assembly.......................................................8

Installing the Dihedral Brace............................8

Joining the Wing Halves...................................8

Installing the Wing Doubler.............................9

Wing Mounting.......................................................9

Installing the Hold Down Dowels.....................9

Aligning the Wing............................................10

Mounting the Wing..........................................10

Horizontal Stabilizer Installation............................10

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer...................10

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer..................1 1

Installing the Triangle Stock............................1 1

Vertical Stabilizer Installation................................12

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer.......................12

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer.....................12

Control Surface Installation...................................12

Hinging the Ailerons........................................12

Hinging the Elevator.......................................13

Hinging the Rudder.........................................13

Main Gear Installation...........................................13

Installing the Main Gear Wires.......................13

Installing the Main Gear Wheels.....................14

Nose Gear Installation...........................................14

Installing the Nose Gear Bracket.....................14

Installing the Nose Gear Wire.........................15

Installing the Nose Gear Wheel.......................15

Engine Mounting....................................................16

Fuel T ank................................................................16

Stopper Assembly ............................................16

Installing the Stopper......................................17

Fuel T ank Installation......................................17

Servo Installation...................................................18

Installing the Fuselage Servos.........................18

Installing the Aileron Servo Tray .....................18

Installing the Aileron Servo.............................19

Throttle Pushrod....................................................20

Installing the Pushrod Wire.............................20

Installing the Servo Connector........................20

Adjusting the Throttle Linkage.......................20

Elevator Pushrod....................................................21

Installing the Control Horn.............................21

Installing the Pushrod......................................21

Adjusting the Elevator Pushrod.......................22

Rudder Pushrod.....................................................22

Installing the Control Horn.............................22

Installing the Pushrod....................................23

Adjusting the Rudder Pushrod........................24

Aileron Linkage....................................................24

Installing the Aileron Linkage.......................24

Adjusting the Aileron Linkage.......................25

Final Assembly......................................................25

Installing the Fuel Lines..................................25

Installing the Switch.......................................26

Installing the Receiver....................................26

Installing the Propeller....................................26

Balancing...............................................................27

Control Throws.......................................................27

Preflight Check.....................................................27

ABC's of Flying....................................................28

Basics of Flight.....................................................28

Glossary of Terms.................................................31

Notes.....................................................................32

Aligning the Engine.........................................16

Product Evaluation Sheet......................................35

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INTRODUCTION

Thank you for choosing the Global Right Flyer 40T Mk.II ARF. Whether you have built and flown other R/C airplanes, or if this is your first, you will appreciate the high quality, ease of assembly and excellent flight characteristics of the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II.

The Right Flyer 40T Mk.II was designed by expert modelers to be one of the best trainer airplanes available today . It features a constant cord wing with a flat bottom airfoil for superior slow flight handling and forgiving flight characteristics. The long tail moment and large tail surfaces help the airplane fly very smooth throughout the entire speed range. Tricycle landing gear makes takeoffs and landings a breeze too. This combination makes the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II one of the best trainers you can buy.

When you open up the box, you'll notice that you won't have much left to do or to purchase to finish your new airplane. Unlike other trainer kits, the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II comes complete with wheels, fuel tank, pushrods, clevises and hinges, among many other items. The airframe is completely built and covered by master craftsmen, who take their time to ensure that every part is straight and properly glued.

We hope you enjoy your new Global Right Flyer 40T Mk.II as much as we have enjoyed designing and building it for you. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to contact us. We have also included a product survey in the back of this manual. Please take the time to fill it out and send it to us. We would enjoy hearing any comments or suggestions you may have.

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new Right Flyer 40T Mk.II in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn many tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before going any further.

ü Please read through each step before starting assembly . You should find the layout very complete and

simple. Our goal is to guide you, the beginner, through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles you might expect.

ü When you are ready to glue any parts together, test fit them first without using glue. This will ensure you

have the correct parts and that they fit together properly.

ü There are check boxes next to each step. After you complete a step, check off the box. This will help

you keep from losing your place.

ü If you come across this symbol , it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint. ü Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the

individual parts.

ü Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts in after you open the accessory bags. ü W e're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight,

strong and great flying airplane.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about

assembly , please contact us at the address below:

Global Hobby Distributors Customer Care

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

E-mail: service@globalhobby.com

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KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Each photo below represents the parts that are required in a main section of the assembly process. Before you begin assembly , group the parts like we show. This will ensure you have all of the parts before you begin assembly . It will also help you become familiar with each part. The corresponding part number is listed first, then the quantity of that particular part, along with a short description of the part. As you proceed through assembly , you will notice the same part number listed next to a particular part necessary for that step. If you have any questions as to what that part might be, refer back to this section.

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

q {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

q {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

q {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

WING ASSEMBLY

q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace W-3

q {2} Wing Hold Down Dowels W-8

q {1} Precovered Plywood Wing Doubler

q {1} Plywood Aileron Servo Tray

q {2} Hardwood Aileron Servo Tray Blocks

Main Gear ASSEMBLY

q {1} 240cc Fuel Tank

q {3} Aluminum Tubes

q {1} Weighted Fuel Pickup

q {1} Silicon Fuel Tubing

q {1} 17mm Diameter Rear Plate

q {1} 20mm Diameter Front Plate

q {1} Rubber Stopper

q {1} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screw

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires

q {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels

q {2} Nylon Spacers

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {2} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

q {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

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NOSE GEAR ASSEMBLY

PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

q {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire

q {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel

q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Bracket

q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm

q {1} Nylon Spacer

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

q {4} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screws

q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

q {2} 2mm x 95mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends

q {2} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wires w/Z-Bends

q {1} 2mm x 530mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

q {1} 2mm x 590mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

PUSHROD CONNECTOR ASSEMBLIES

q {4} 3mm x 19mm Machine Screws

q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

q {2} Precovered Triangle Stock

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm

q {2} Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates

q {4} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws

q {4} Nylon Clevises

q {4} Nylon Snap Keepers

q {2} Adjustable Servo Connectors

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

1” = 25.4mm 2” = 50.8mm 3” = 76.2mm 6” = 152.4mm 12” = 304.8mm 18” = 457.2mm

21” = 533.4mm 24” = 609.6mm 30” = 762.0mm 36” = 914.4mm

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FULL SIZE HARDWARE DRAWINGS

Listed below are full size drawings of the small hardware items included with the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II. Use these drawings to familiarize yourself with each part. Please refer back to this page to locate the proper hardware items when they are needed for a particular assembly step. These drawings are especially helpful when trying to identify the different size screws or nuts used in a particular step.

3mm x 6mm

Machine Screw

3mm x 12mm

Wood Screw

3mm x 5mm

Machine Screw

(for servo connector)

3mm x 18mm

Machine Screw

3mm Flat

Washer

Servo Connector

Body

3mm x 19mm

Machine Screw

3mm Nylon

Insert Nut

Servo Connector

Body Nut

2mm x 16mm

Machine Screw

Wheel Collar

Nylon Spacer

Nylon Clevis Nylon Snap

Nylon Landing

Gear Strap

IMPORTANT We have included a glossary of terms beginning on page # 31. Use this glossary if you come across a term that is unfamiliar.

Keeper

Control Horn

Backplate

Control Horn

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ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

q {1}Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/4 Servos q {1}Cirrus 12” Servo Extension # 444713 q {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513 q {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923 q {1}Arco # 64 Rubber Bands # 24649 q {1}Dubro Lead Balance Weight # 351 q {1}Dubro Hook & Loop Material # 348

FOR 2 CYCLE ENGINE

q {1}Magnum XL .40ARNV # 210740 q {1}APC 10 x 6 Propeller # LP10060 q {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493 q {1}Magnum Polished Spinner Nut # 237210

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

q Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 q Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 q Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 q Electric or Hand Drill q Assorted Drill Bits q Modeling Knife q Machine Oil or Vaseline q Phillips Head Screwdriver q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

OPTIONAL ITEMS

q {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762 q {1} Magnum 2-1/4” Chrome Spinner # 237153 q {1}Prather Prop Balancer # 3000

Note - The part numbers for the servo extension and the On-Board Battery Indicator are for Hitec and JR radio systems. These items are also available with different connectors for use with Futaba and Airtronics radio systems.

q Pen or Pencil q Builders Triangle q Masking Tape q Paper Towels q Rubbing Alcohol q Wire Cutters q Epoxy Mixing Sticks q Epoxy Mixing Cups q Straight Edge Ruler

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

q Magnum 12V Electric Starter # 361006 q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump # 237377 q Magnum Locking Glow Clip # 237440 q Global 12V Battery # 110171

Global guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Global's liability exceed

the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Global has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly , no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

T o make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. W e also recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field in your area also.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

q Global 12V Charger # 110270 q Magnum Power Panel # 237390 q Global Field Buddy Flight Box # 233072 q Magnum 4-Way Wrench # 237420

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WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Left Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

q {1} Right Wing Half w/Aileron & Hinges

q {1} Plywood Dihedral Brace W-3

q {1} Precovered Plywood Wing Doubler

INSTALLING THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

Photo # 3

q 1) Look at the surface of each root rib on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully trim the covering from both of the root ribs, leaving about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does not pull away. See photo # 1 below.

Photo # 1

Removing most of the covering from the two

root ribs will expose more of the wood. This will result in a stronger joint when the wing halves are glued together later.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the plywood dihedral brace W-3. Draw one vertical line, on each side, at this location. See

photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

The dihedral brace is cut in the shape of a "V". The "V" shape should face the top surface of

the wing when the brace is installed. The top surface of the wing is the curved surface.

q 4) T est fit both of the wing halves together with the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not glue the two halves together yet! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of the dihedral brace. T est fit the wing halves together with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat this step until you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

It is important that the wing halves fit together properly . The better the fit, the stronger the cen-

ter section joint will be.

q 5) When satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

q 6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Working with only one wing half for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 3) Test fit the plywood dihedral brace into the plywood dihedral brace box in each wing half. The brace should slide into each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not, remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained.

See photo # 3 at top right.

Mix equal amounts of epoxy for about 1 minute. This will ensure both parts are thoroughly in-

corporated together.

q 7) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

JOINING THE WING HALVES

q 8) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing halves together to double check that the wing halves still fit correctly.

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q 9) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the plywood box in the second wing half, and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 10) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges. Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the two wing halves in place until the epoxy fully cures. See

photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

q 14) Remove the doubler. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from just inside the outline.

When cutting through the covering, cut with

enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Try not to cut down into the wood. Removing the covering will allow a better bond between the two parts. Glue does not stick well to the covering material used on R/C models, so always remember to remove the covering from any surface to be glued.

q 15) Glue the doubler to the wing using Kwik Bond Thick C/A. Hold the doubler firmly in place until the glue fully cures.

WING MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Fuselage w/Pushrod Housings

q {2} Wing Hold Down Dowels W-8

q 11) Once the epoxy has fully cured, double

check the center section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Remove any excess epoxy and allow it to cure thoroughly before proceeding.

INSTALLING THE WING DOUBLER

q 12) Set the plywood wing doubler in place on top of the wing. The back edge of the doubler should be even with the trailing edge of the wing and the sides of the doubler should overlap the centerline of the wing equal amounts. See photo # 5 below.

Photo # 5

INSTALLING THE HOLD DOWN DOWELS

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two predrilled wing hold down dowel holes in front of the wing saddle. One hole is located on each side of the fuselage 9” behind the front of the fuselage and 1/2” down from the top of the fuselage.

q 2) Remove the covering from over the two predrilled wing hold down dowel holes in back of the wing saddle. One hole is located on each side of the fuselage 20-3/8” behind the front of the fuselage and 1/2” down from the top of the fuselage.

q 3) Slide one wing hold down dowel through the two front holes and one through the two back holes. Center the two dowels in the fuselage. Both ends of each dowel should protrude from the fuselage sides equal amounts. See photo # 6 below .

Photo # 6

q 13) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the top of the wing.

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q 4) When satisfied with their fit, use a pencil and place a mark on each dowel were they exit the fuselage sides. Remove the two dowels.

q 5) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Using a mixing stick, apply a thin layer of epoxy to the inside edges of each of the four holes in the fuselage sides.

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

q {2} Precovered Triangle Stock

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 6) Slide the dowels back into place, aligning the marks on the dowels with the fuselage sides. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol remove any excess epoxy. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

ALIGNING THE WING

q 7) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the fuselage at both the front and the rear of the wing saddle. Place one mark on top of the fuselage at the back edge of the wing saddle and one mark at the front of the wing saddle. See photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

These two marks will help you align the wing

when you install it onto the fuselage. You may wish to make these marks in permanent ink so you can align the wing correctly each time you install the wing. This will ensure the wing is aligned properly every time you fly the airplane.

q 8) Place the wing onto the wing saddle. The joint where the two wing halves were glued together is considered the centerline of the wing. Align the centerline of the wing at both the front and the rear of the wing saddle with the two centerline marks you made on the fuselage.

q 1) Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer. Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

q 2) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the top of the precut hole in the center of the stabilizer. The hole is located 2” behind the leading edge and is 1” long and 3/16” wide.

q 3) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the fuselage at both the front and the rear of the stabilizer mounting platform. When you place the mark at the rear of the platform, extend the mark down the back edge of the fuselage. This will make it easier to line up the horizontal stabilizer . See

photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

MOUNTING THE WING

q 9) Using a couple of # 64 rubber bands, temporarily install the wing. T o properly install the rubber bands, hook one over one of the front wing hold down dowels, carefully pull it back over the wing and hook it over the rear hold down dowel on the same side. Install two rubber bands on each side for now .

q 4) Set the stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting platform and push it as far forward as possible.

q 5) Carefully remove both ailerons from the wing. Align the centerline drawn on the top and the rear of

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the stabilizer with the centerline marks drawn on the fuselage. When those are aligned, hold the stabilizer in that position using masking tape. Align the horizontal stabilizer with the wing. When viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand down the high side of the stabilizer mounting platform until the proper alignment is achieved. The tips of the stabilizer should also be equal distance from the tips of the wing. See

figures # 1 and # 2 below.

Figure # 1

A = A-1

Figure # 2

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa may weaken the stabilizer.

q 9) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from the top of the stabilizer mounting sides on the fuselage.

Removing the covering will allow a better bond

between the two parts. If the glue joint between the fuselage sides and the stabilizer is not adequate, it could lead to stabilizer failure during flight.

q 10) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the mounting area on the bottom of the stabilizer and to the top of the stabilizer mounting sides on the fuselage. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

B = B-1

q 6) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer securely in place with masking tape, but do not glue it in place at this time.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 7) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides on the bottom of the stabilizer.

q 8) Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a modeling knife. See photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

INSTALLING THE TRIANGLE STOCK

q 11) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering that overlaps onto the inside edges of the two pieces of triangle stock.

q 12) W orking with one piece of triangle stock for now, align it in the joint between the bottom of the stabilizer and the fuselage side. When it's properly aligned, the triangle stock should be centered between the leading edge and trailing edge of the stabilizer.

See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

q 13) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the triangle stock in place and draw around it using a pen.

q 14) Remove the triangle stock and use a modeling knife to remove the covering from inside the outline you drew.

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q 15) Glue the triangle stock into place using a generous amount of Kwik Bond Thick C/A. Allow the glue to cure completely before proceeding.

The triangle stock adds a lot of strength to the joint between the fuselage and stabilizer. It's

important that it be glued in securely .

q 16) Repeat steps # 12 - # 15 to install the second piece of triangle stock on the opposite side of the horizontal stabilizer.

VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa may weaken the stabilizer.

q 5) Set the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

See figure # 3 below.

Figure # 3

q 1) Remove the rudder from the vertical stabilizer and set it aside for now.

q 2) Slide the tab in the back of the vertical stabilizer into the precut hole in the horizontal stabilizer . The dorsal fin on the front of the vertical stabilizer should be centered between the fuselage sides and it should be firmly pushed down so there are no gaps present.

q 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of it where it meets the top of the horizontal stabilizer. Also draw an outline on top of the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer where they and the dorsal fin meet.

q 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer, the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and between the lines you drew on top of the fuselage and horizontal stabilizer. See photo # 12 below.

Photo # 12

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the horizontal stabilizer and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom edge of the dorsal fin and to the top of the fuselage also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

CONTROL SURFACE

INSTALLATION

HINGING THE AILERONS

q 1) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the two ailerons. Working with one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated into the predrilled hole in the leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”.

q 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the aileron. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through the

hinges!

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q 3) Slide a small piece of waxed paper between the aileron torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing.

See photo # 13 below.

Photo # 13

The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque rod to the trailing edge of the wing.

q 10) When you are satisfied with the fit, hold the elevator tight against the stabilizer and rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the elevator up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

HINGING THE RUDDER

q 11) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through

the hinges!

q 4) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the aileron torque rod. Use a toothpick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole in the aileron.

q 5) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the predrilled hole in the aileron.

q 6) With the aileron tight against the wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the aileron up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

q 7) Repeat steps # 1 - # 6 to install the second aileron.

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

q 8) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Be careful not to cut through the

hinges!

q 9) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the elevator. Slide the elevator and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The elevator should fit tight against the trailing edge and the hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”. The tips of the elevator should be even with the tips of the stabilizer.

q 12) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the rudder. Slide the rudder and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer. The rudder should fit tight against the trailing edge and the hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”. The tip of the rudder should be even with the tip of the stabilizer.

q 13) When you are satisfied with the fit, hold the rudder tight against the stabilizer and rotate the rudder to the side about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the fuselage over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the rudder back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires

q {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels

q {2} Nylon Spacers

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {2} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

q {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps

q {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the main gear mounting slot located in the bottom of the fuselage. The slot is located 9” back from the front edge of the firewall. It is 5/16” wide and 3-1/2” long.

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q 2) Insert the 90º bend of each main gear wire into the predrilled holes in the mounting slot. See

photo # 14 below.

Photo # 14

Photo # 16

q 9) Repeat steps # 7 and # 8 to install the second wheel on the opposite axle.

q 3) The gear wires are held in place using four nylon landing gear straps and eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Each strap should be centered over the gear wires and should also be spaced equally between the fuselage sides.

q 4) Using the landing gear straps as a guide, mark the locations of the eight 3mm x 12mm mounting screws onto the fuselage using a pen.

q 5) Remove the straps. Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill eight 1/16” holes into the fuselage to accept the wood screws.

q 6) Install the four nylon landing gear straps using eight 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten the screws completely to secure the landing gear wires in place. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Prebent Nose Gear Wire

q {1} 60mm Diameter Wheel

q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Bracket

q {1} Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm

q {1} Nylon Spacer

q {2} Wheel Collars

q {3} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screws

q {4} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screws

q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

q {1} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR BRACKET

q 1) Install the nylon nose gear bracket to the bottom of the firewall using the four 3mm x 18mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. The holes for the machine screws have already been predrilled in the proper positions. Tighten the screws and nuts completely to secure the bracket in place. See photo # 17 below.

INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

q 7) Slide one nylon spacer, then one wheel and one wheel collar with set screw onto one axle.

The wheel should be installed with the recessed portion of the rim towards the nylon spacer.

q 8) Center the wheel on the axle and tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. Check to make sure the wheel spins free. See photo # 16 at top right.

Photo # 17

The nylon nose gear mounting bracket has a

molded lip on one end of it. When installing the bracket, make sure the molded lip points towards the bottom of the fuselage.

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INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WIRE

q 2) Thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into the side of the nylon steering arm. Slide the nylon steering arm onto the nose gear wire. Orientate the arm so that the set screw is aligned with the flat spot on the wire. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the set screw securely . See photo # 18 below.

Photo # 18

q 7) Remove the nose gear. W ith the pushrod wire still in place, connect the Z-bend in the pushrod wire to the predrilled hole in the steering arm. Slide the nose gear wire back into the mounting bracket. T wist the nose gear back and forth. If any binding is present, make a small bend in the pushrod wire where it exits the slot in the fuselage. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

When installing the steering arm, make sure the mounting flange faces the top of the nose gear.

q 3) Using a modeling knife, cut a slot in the bottom, left side of the fuselage for the steering pushrod wire to exit. The slot should be 1-1/4” long and 1/4” wide. Position the slot 1-1/4” behind the firewall and 1/4” in from the fuselage side. See photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

q 4) Slide the nose gear wire into the mounting bracket. Push the nose gear down until it stops.

When installing the nose gear wire, make sure the coil in the wire points toward the back of

the fuselage.

q 8) Push the nose gear wire down until it stops. The steering arm should be pressed firmly against the mounting bracket.

q 9) Thread one 3mm x 6mm machine screw into the side of one wheel collar. W ith the nose gear wire in place, slide the wheel collar over the top of the gear wire and tighten the machine screw to secure the nose gear wire in place. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

INSTALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL

q 10) Slide one nylon spacer , then one wheel and one wheel collar with set screw onto the axle.

q 5) Slide the plain end of the 2mm x 415mm pushrod wire into the slot in the bottom of the fuselage. Look inside the fuselage and feed the wire through the predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead and through the hole in the servo tray support bulkhead.

q 6) Using a pair of pliers, carefully bend the pushrod wire at an angle until the Z-bend lines up with the hole in the nose gear steering arm.

The wheel should be installed with the recessed portion of the rim toward the nylon spacer.

q 11) Center the wheel on the axle and tighten the set screw in the wheel collar. Check to make sure the wheel spins free.

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ENGINE MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

q {4} 3mm x 19mm Machine Screws

q {8} 3mm Flat Washers

q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

ALIGNING THE ENGINE

q 1) Install a 10 x 6 propeller onto your Magnum XL .40ARNV engine. Tighten the prop nut to secure the propeller in place.

q 2) Set the engine onto the hardwood motor mount rails and rotate the propeller so it is horizontal. T o properly align the engine, use a ruler and measure from the front of each fuselage side, to the back edge of the propeller. The measurement on the left should be 1/2”. The measurement on the right should be 3/8”.

See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

the holes in the engine mount. Install the engine using four 3mm x 19mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely to secure the engine in place.

q 6) If your engine is equipped with a rear needle valve assembly, install that and the carburetor onto your engine now. You will have to cut a slot in the side of the fuselage to clear the needle valve. Use a modeling knife to do this. See photo # 23 below.

Photo # 23

FUEL TANK

If you're using an engine that has a crankcase

dimension wider than the width of the hardwood mounting rails, you can remove equal amounts of wood from the inside edge of each rail. Remove small amounts at a time until your engine fits properly , but be careful not to remove too much material. A coping saw, is best to use to do this with, but a sharp modeling knife will work well also.

q 3) When satisfied with the alignment, hold the engine firmly in place and use a pencil to mark the locations of the four mounting holes onto the hardwood motor mount rails.

q 4) Remove the engine. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the four mounting holes through the motor mount.

When drilling the holes, make sure you drill

them straight down and not at an angle.

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 240cc Fuel Tank

q {3} Aluminum Tubes

q {1} Weighted Fuel Pickup

q {1} Silicon Fuel Tubing

q {1} 17mm Diameter Rear Plate

q {1} 20mm Diameter Front Plate

q {1} Rubber Stopper

q {1} 3mm x 18mm Machine Screw

STOPPER ASSEMBLY

q 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 different length aluminum tubes. Discard the shortest of the three tubes. It will not be used.

The 50mm long tube is used for the fuel line

pickup and the 80mm long tube is used for the vent/pressure line. The fuel line pickup goes to the fuel nipple on the carburetor, or rear needle valve, and the vent/pressure line goes to the pressure tap on the muffler .

q 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully smooth each end of the two tubes. This will prevent the fuel line from being accidentally cut when it is installed.

q 5) Set the engine back in place and double check that the holes in the engine mounting lugs line up with

q 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper until 1/2” of each tube protrudes from the

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front of the stopper. Slide the 20mm diameter front plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the 17mm diameter rear plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 18mm machine screw into the center hole in the front plate, then screw it through the stopper and into the back plate. Do not tighten the screw yet.

q 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. Make a gradual bend, so you don't pinch the tube when you bend it.

If the tubes do not fit right, remove the stopper assembly and adjust them before proceeding.

q 8) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 18mm machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

q 9) Using a modeling knife, cut two pieces of silicon fuel tubing to 12” long. Slide both pieces of tubing through the precut hole in the top of the firewall and into the servo compartment.

q 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the fuel pickup tube, until the silicon tube touches the rear plate. See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

INSTALLING THE STOPPER

q 6) T est fit the stopper assembly into the molded hole in the front of the tank. If there is any plastic flashing around the tank opening, remove it using a modeling knife. Make sure none falls into the tank.

q 7) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should move freely inside the tank and the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank, but not rub against the tank. See

photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

q 10) Install the two lengths of silicon fuel tubing onto the vent and fuel pickup tubes at the front of the tank. Use a pen to mark the other ends of the tubes with a P for pressure and a C for carburetor so you remember which one goes where.

q 11) Cut a piece of Dubro foam rubber and wrap it around your receiver battery pack. Use a couple of long pieces of masking tape, wrapped around the pack, to hold the foam in place. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

q 12) Place the battery pack on the fuselage floor , inside the fuel tank compartment. Push it up against the firewall and make sure it is as far away from the steering pushrod as possible.

If you are using a square battery pack it will not

fit inside the fuel tank compartment. Therefore, you will need to mount it behind the fuel tank. Because of this you may have to add weight to properly balance the airplane. Don't worry about that until later though.

q 13) Pull on the two fuel lines while guiding the fuel tank in position.

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When installing the fuel tank, make sure the top of the tank is facing the top of the fuselage.

q 14) When properly aligned, the front portion of the fuel tank should rest on top of the battery pack and the back edge of the tank should be about 3/8” past the forward bulkhead. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

q 15) Cut pieces of Dubro foam rubber and wedge them between the tank and the fuselage, being careful not to interfere with the steering pushrod or the area where the throttle pushrod will be installed. When your done, the fuel tank should fit firmly in place and not move around.

Do not push the fuel tank any farther forward.

Doing this will pinch the fuel lines between the tank and the firewall, causing fuel flow problems later on. T o double check the lines, carefully blow through one of them. Y ou should hear and feel air coming out of the other tube.

q 2) Position the servos into the preinstalled servo tray making sure you run the servo wires out the precut hole in the forward servo tray bulkhead. Note the position of each of the servo output shafts. They should face the directions shown. See photo # 28 below .

Photo # 28

To make it easier, position the two rear servos

first, then run those wires out the precut hole. After that you can position and run the lead out of the precut hole for the forward servo.

q 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the mounting screws. Install the servos using the mounting screws provided with each servo. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the servos in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will

make it easier to install the mounting screws.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO TRAY

SERVO INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Plywood Aileron Servo Tray

q {2} Hardwood Aileron Servo Tray Blocks

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

q 1) Locate the three servos you intend to use for the elevator, rudder/steering and throttle controls. Install the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto each of the servos. The brass collets should be installed with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting tabs. See figure # 4 below.

Figure # 4

q 4) Using a modeling knife, cut a shallow "V" shape into the bottom of each of the two hardwood blocks. The blocks are 1” wide and 7/8” tall. Cut the "V" shape on the tall side. See photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

Be careful not to remove too much material at

this time. You will double check the fit in the next step.

q 5) Test fit the two hardwood blocks into the precut aileron servo hole in the bottom of the wing. Each block should fit firmly between the sides of the

Page 19

hole and the "V" shape should match the angle of the top wing sheeting. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 30

Because this fit will be different on every airplane, you may need to lightly sand the sides of

the blocks so they will fit properly.

q 8) When satisfied with the fit, remove the servo tray assembly. Mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the gluing surfaces of each of the two hardwood blocks. Reinstall the servo tray assembly and align it as done previously . Any excess epoxy can be removed using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO

q 9) Locate the servo you intend to use for aileron control. Install the four rubber grommets and four brass collets onto the servo. The brass collets should be installed with the flanges facing the bottom of the servo mounting tabs. See figure # 5 below.

q 6) When satisfied with their fit, remove the two blocks. Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the two hardwood blocks to one side of the plywood aileron servo tray . One block should be glued flush with the outer edge of the tray and the second block should be glued flush with inside edge of the servo cutout. Both blocks should be centered between the sides of the tray. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

q 7) Test fit the aileron servo tray assembly into the wing. The portion of the tray that overhangs the hardwood block should face the trailing edge of the wing and the whole assembly should be pushed down firmly into the hole. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

Figure # 5

q 10) Position the servo into the servo tray making sure you run the servo wire out between the tray and the wing. Note the position of the servo output shaft. It should face the leading edge of the wing.

See photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

q 11) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill pilot holes through the servo tray for each of the mounting screws. Install the servo using the mounting screws provided with the servo. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the servo in place.

Drilling pilot holes through the servo tray will make it easier to install the mounting screws.

Be careful not to drill through the top of the wing.

Page 20

THROTTLE PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 2mm x 415mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend

q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD WIRE

q 1) Slide the plain end of the pushrod wire through the predrilled hole in the firewall, directly behind the throttle arm, through the hole in the forward bulkhead and through the hole in the forward servo tray support bulkhead.

q 2) Remove the throttle arm from the engine and attach the Z-Bend to the hole farthest out in the throttle arm. Reattach the throttle arm to the engine. See

photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosening during flight.

q 5) Plug the throttle servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system (please refer to your radio system manual for complete instructions about connecting your system).

q 6) Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction. When the throttle stick is moved forward from idle to full throttle, the servo should rotate counterclockwise.

q 7) Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo arm assembly over the plain end of the pushrod wire. Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their lowest positions.

q 8) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully closed. Angle the servo arm about 45º back from center and attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be pointing toward the fuselage side. With the carburetor barrel fully closed, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector.

The hole in your throttle arm may be too small for the pushrod wire to fit through. If it is, drill

out the hole using a 5/64” drill bit.

INSTALLING THE SERVO CONNECTOR

q 3) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.

q 4) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of the arm. You will have to enlarge the hole in the servo arm using a 5/64” drill bit so the servo connector will fit. When you thread the nut on, don't tighten it completely . You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much. See figure # 6 below.

Figure # 6

q 9) Remove the excess throttle pushrod wire using wire cutters and install the servo arm retaining screw. See photo # 35 below.

Photo # 35

ADJUSTING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

q 10) When your throttle linkage is adjusted properly, the carburetor barrel should be fully closed when the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever are at their lowest positions. Moving the throttle trim up should open the carburetor barrel about 25% - 30%. Moving the throttle stick all the way forward should open the throttle barrel completely . All of these movements should be done without any binding in the linkage. Sometimes the servo will bind at either the fully closed and/or fully open throttle positions. If this happens,

Page 21

and your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter features (see your radio instruction manual for further details). If your radio does not have these functions you can still adjust the linkage. For more linkage travel, move the adjustable servo connector to a hole farther out from the center of the servo arm. For less travel, move the connector to a hole closer to the center of the servo arm. Ideally, you don't want the servo to bind while at idle or full throttle. This will cause excessive strain on the servo and will also cause excessive drain on the battery pack.

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 2mm x 590mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate

q {2} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws

q {1} Nylon Clevis

q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the rear of the fuselage. The hole is located on the right side of the fuselage, 2-1/4” in front of the back edge of the fuselage and 7/8” up from the bottom of the fuselage.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the excess nylon pushrod housing 1/8” in front of the balsa support block. See photo # 37 below.

Photo # 37

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

q 1) Position the nylon control horn on the bottom, right side of the elevator. The centerline of the control horn should be 5/16” out from the fuselage side, at the hinge line. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly over the hinge line. See photo # 36 below.

Photo # 36

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the elevator.

q 6) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms.

q 7) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the second hole out from the center of the servo arm. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 590mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See figure # 7 below.

Figure # 7

q 8) Plug the elevator servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the elevator trim lever on your transmitter.

q 3) Mount the control horn to the elevator by inserting two 2mm x 16mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the elevator and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Be careful not to crush the

wood.

q 9) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 590mm pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the threaded portion exits the back of the fuselage.

Page 22

q 10) Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo and point toward the middle of the fuselage. Install the servo arm retaining screw. See photo # 38 below.

q 17) Pull back completely on the elevator control stick. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trailing edge of the elevator moves up. This measurement should be 5/16”. See figure # 8 below.

Photo # 38

q 11) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the elevator centered.

q 12) Using a modeling knife, cut a piece of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the length of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the pushrod wire.

q 13) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wire until the pin in the clevis lines up with the holes in the control horn. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wire and keep it from turning.

q 14) Snap the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn and slide the piece of tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

Figure # 8

q 18) If the control surface deflection is more or less than 5/16” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the clevis and the servo arm. If the elevator is moving more than 5/16” you can move the pushrod in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the elevator is moving less than 5/16” you can move the clevis one hole closer to the elevator. When adjusted properly, the elevator should move 5/16” both up and down.

As a rule, if you move the clevis, at the control

surface, closer to the control surface, this will increase the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away , it will decrease the amount of deflection. If you move the pushrod at the servo arm closer to the center of the arm, it will decrease the amount of control deflection. If you move it farther away from the center, it will increase the amount of control deflection.

q 15) Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double check that both the servo arm and the elevator are still centered.

ADJUSTING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

q 16) W ith your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the elevator control surface direction and amount of deflection. Pull back on the elevator control stick. The elevator should move up. If it doesn't, move the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

RUDDER PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 2mm x 530mm Threaded Wire w/L-Bend

q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate

q {2} 2mm x 16mm Machine Screws

q {1} Nylon Clevis

q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper

q {1} Adjustable Servo Connector

INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORN

q 1) Position the nylon control horn on the left side of the rudder, 1/2” up from the top of the horizontal stabilizer. Position the control horn so the

Page 23

clevis attachment holes are directly over the hinge line. Also make sure the control horn is parallel with the bottom of the rudder. See photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the rudder.

the servo arm using a 5/64” drill bit so the servo connector will fit. When you thread on the nut, don't tighten it completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding too much.

After installing the adjustable servo connector

apply a small drop of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut. This will prevent the connector from loosening during flight.

q 8) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the second hole out from the center of the opposite side of the servo arm. Insert the L-bend in the 2mm x 530mm pushrod wire down through the hole. Place a nylon snap keeper over the wire to hold it securely to the servo arm. See

figure # 10 below .

q 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder by inserting two 2mm x 16mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the rudder and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Be careful not to crush the

wood.

INSTALLING THE PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the top of the fuselage. The hole is located on the top of the fuselage, to the left of the dorsal fin. It is 1-1/2” in front of the leading edge of the stabilizer and 5/16” in from the fuselage side.

q 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the excess nylon pushrod housing 1/8” in front of the balsa support block.

q 6) Locate a plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Using wire cutters, remove all but two of the arms. See figure # 9 below.

Figure # 9

Figure # 10

q 9) Plug the rudder servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the rudder trim lever on your transmitter.

q 10) Slide the threaded end of the 2mm x 530mm pushrod wire into the nylon pushrod housing, from inside the servo compartment, until the threaded portion exits the top of the fuselage.

q 11) Slide the adjustable servo connector over the end of the steering pushrod. Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo. Install the servo arm retaining screw. See

photo # 41 below.

Photo # 41

q 7) Install one adjustable servo connector through the third hole out from the center of one side of the arm. You will have to enlarge the hole in

Page 24

q 12) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder centered.

q 13) Using a modeling knife, cut a piece of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the length of fuel tubing over the threaded end of the pushrod wire.

q 14) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of the wire until the pin in the clevis lines up with the holes in the control horn. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wire and keep it from turning.

q 15) Snap the clevis into the second hole out from the base of the control horn and slide the piece of tubing up over the clevis to secure it in place. See

photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the clevis and servo arm. If the rudder is moving more than 5/8” you can move the pushrod in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the rudder is moving less than 5/8” you can move the clevis one hole closer to the rudder. When adjusted properly , the rudder should move 5/8” both right and left. The same goes for the nose gear steering. You want the nose gear to turn no more than 1/2” in each direction. If it turns any more than that, the airplane will be difficult to control on the ground. You can adjust the amount of steering movement by moving the adjustable connector in or out on the servo arm.

As a rule, if you move the clevis, at the control

q 16) Center the nose gear wire. With the servo arm still centered, tighten the set screw in the adjustable servo connector. Remove the excess steering pushrod wire using wire cutters.

ADJUSTING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

q 17) W ith your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the rudder control surface direction and amount of deflection in both the rudder and the nose gear. Push the rudder control stick all the way to the right. Both the rudder and the nose gear should move to the right. If they don't, move the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

q 18) Push the rudder control stick all the way to the right. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trailing edge of the rudder moves right. This measurement should be 5/8”. Measure the amount the nose gear turns also. This measurement should be about 1/2” or less.

q 19) If the rudder control surface deflection is more or less than 5/8” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point

AILERON LINKAGE

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} 2mm x 95mm Threaded Wires w/L-Bends

q {2} Nylon Clevises

q {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE

q 1) The two nylon adjustable control horns have already been partially threaded onto the aileron torque rods. Thread them into their final position. They should be flush with the tops of the torque rods. See

figure # 11 below.

Figure # 11

q 2) Locate a large plastic servo arm that came with your servo. Each arm should have a minumum of four holes. Using wire cutters, remove all but two of the arms (similar to the rudder servo arm).

Page 25

q 3) Using a 5/64” drill bit, enlarge the fourth hole out from the center of each side of the servo arm. Insert the L-bends in the 2mm x 95mm pushrod wires down through the holes. Place a nylon snap keeper over each wire to hold them securely to the servo arm.

q 4) Plug the aileron servo lead into your receiver and turn on the radio system. Center the aileron trim lever on your transmitter.

q 5) Attach the servo arm to the servo. The servo arm should be centered on the servo. Install the servo arm retaining screw . See photo # 43 below.

Photo # 43

q 6) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the ailerons centered.

q 7) Using a modeling knife, cut two pieces of fuel tubing to 1/4” long. Slide the one length of fuel tubing over the threaded end of each pushrod wire.

q 8) Thread one nylon clevis onto the threaded end of each wire until the pin in the clevises lines up with the hole in the adjustable control horns. Use a pair of pliers to help hold the wires and keep them from turning.

q 9) Snap the clevises to the control horns and slide the tubing up over the clevises to secure them in place. See photo # 44 below.

Photo # 44

ADJUSTING THE AILERON LINKAGE

q 10) W ith your radio system still plugged in and turned on, check the aileron control surface direction and amount of deflection in each aileron. Push the aileron control stick all the way to the right. The aileron on the right wing half should move up and the aileron on the left wing half should move down (looking from the back of the wing with the wing right side up). If they don't, move the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. This will change the direction (refer to your radio instructions for more information on this function).

q 11) Push the aileron control stick all the way to the right. Using a ruler, measure the amount the trailing edge of each aileron moves. This measurement should be 3/16”.

q 12) If the aileron control surface deflection is more or less than 3/16” it must be changed. If your radio is equipped with digital or manual end point adjustments, make those adjustments using the transmitter. If your radio does not have this feature, you can adjust the control horns and servo arm. If the ailerons are moving more than 3/16” you can move the pushrods in one hole toward the center of the servo arm. If the ailerons are moving less than 3/16” you can thread the adjustable connectors down further. When adjusted properly, both ailerons should move 3/16” up and down.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE FUEL LINES

q 1) Using a modeling knife, cut each of the two fuel lines to the correct length and attach them to the engine. The vent/pressure line connects to the pressure nipple on the muffler. The fuel pickup line connects to the fuel nipple on the carburetor (or rear needle valve assembly). See photo # 45 below.

Photo # 45

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q 2) To fill the fuel tank, remove the fuel lines from both the carburetor and the muffler . Fill through the fuel pickup line and watch for excess fuel coming from the vent line. When fuel begins to come out of the vent line, the fuel tank is full. Reattach the fuel lines to their proper positions.

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

q 3) The switch should be mounted on the left side of the fuselage, in the forward section of the servo compartment. Use the faceplate of the switch itself to locate and mark the switch cutout and mounting holes.

q 4) Cut out the switch hole using a modeling knife. Use a 5/64” drill bit and drill the two mounting holes through the fuselage side.

q 5) Secure the switch in place using the two machine screws provided with the switch. Do not overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the wood. See photo # 46 below.

Photo # 46

q 8) The receiver is mounted directly behind the fuel tank. Using a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole in the left side of the fuselage, about 1/2” behind the fuel tank.

q 9) Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole in the side of the fuselage. Use a strip of Velcro to secure the receiver to the fuselage floor, just behind the fuel tank. Make sure the antenna is not coiled around itself or the steering pushrod. See photo # 47 below .

Photo # 47

q 10) Secure the antenna to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band, push pin and a modified servo arm. Make sure the antenna is not pulled too tight and that it runs underneath the rear wing hold down dowel. See photo # 48 below.

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER

q 6) Plug the three servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch lead. We also recommend installing an aileron extension lead into the receiver.

An aileron extension lead will make it easier to plug the aileron servo lead in once the receiver

has been installed.

q 7) Wrap the receiver in Dubro foam rubber . Use a couple of lengths of masking tape to secure the foam in place, just as you did with the battery pack.

Do not wrap the receiver to tight. You want to be careful not to crush the servo wires as they

come out the top of the receiver.

Photo # 48

Do not cut off the excess antenna. Leave the

excess hang behind the airplane. Cutting the antenna will greatly reduce the range of the receiver and could cause you to lose control of your airplane.

INSTALLING THE PROPELLER

q 11) Place a 10 x 6 propeller onto the crankshaft of the engine. To secure the propeller in place, and make it easier to start your engine with a hand-held electric starter, use a Magnum 1/4” chrome spinner nut. A thin shank screwdriver should be used to tighten the spinner nut securely.

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BALANCING

q 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is lo-

cated 3-1/4” back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides. This location is recom-

mended for initial test flying and trimming. There is a 3/8” margin forward and a 1/4” margin aft. It is not recommended that the center of gravity be located any farther back than 3-1/2”. Balance the Right

Flyer 40T Mk. II with the fuel tank empty.

suggested for initial test flying. If you haven't set up the control throws yet, we have listed them here again, along with a set of control throws recommended for advanced training and/or experienced pilots. Please refer back to those pages for the proper technique for adjusting the control throws.

TEST FLYING AND TRAINING

Ailerons: 3/16” up 3/16” down Elevator: 5/16” up 5/16” down Rudder: 5/8” right 5/8” left

ADVANCED TRAINING

q 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage using twelve # 64 rubber bands, six per side. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the bottom surface of the wing, 3-1/4” back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.

q 3) Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.

q 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack back in the fuselage. If this is not possible, or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and receiver forward. If this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or use a brass spinner hub in place of the standard aluminum hub. If this is necessary, we recommend the Harry Higley Heavy Hub # HVY014. When balanced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.

Once you have flown and trimmed the Right

Flyer 40T Mk.II the balance point can be moved forward 3/8” or aft up to 1/4” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the balance point forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

Do not fly the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II beyond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” down Elevator: 1/2” up 1/2” down Rudder: 7/8” right 7/8” left

Do not use the Advanced T raining settings for Test Flying.

PREFLIGHT CHECK

q 1) Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

q 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II to ensure that everything is tight and well bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

q 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.

q 4) Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind in any way .

q 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.

q 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.

q 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

CONTROL THROWS

q 1) We recommend setting up the airplane using the control throws we recommended in the pushrod installation steps. Those controls throws are

q 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure. T o balance the propeller we recommend using the simple Prather Prop Balancer # 3000.

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ABC's of FLYING

If you've come this far, now you're ready to pre-

pare for the maiden voyage of your new Right Flyer 40T Mk.II. Before proceeding, we highly recommend double checking all of your work. Make sure there is no detail you missed and that you understand all of the airplane's functions. We hope you find the following sections helpful, making your first flights successful.

Since you've chosen the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II,

you've avoided the most common mistake beginners make: choosing a high performance airplane like the a P-51 Mustang or a F-16 jet as a trainer. Just as you wouldn't learn to drive a car using an Indy car, learning to fly airplanes should start in a trainer. The second mistake new pilots make is not seeking out the help of an experienced modeler. While it is certainly true that some people have learned to fly without help, having the help of an experienced R/C model pilot will help make those first few flights much more successful and enjoyable. So, we highly recommend seeking out a club or a flying field near you. You'd be surprised just how many clubs there are that help beginners.

Once at the field, even before removing your air-

plane from the car, introduce yourself to some of the other pilots. Find out what safety procedures and frequency control system is in place. In short, learn and follow the field etiquette. Doing so will ensure safe modeling for you and others. Y ou will also be able to find out who might be the right person to help you learn to fly.

Sometimes, it is just impossible to find anyone to

help. In that case it would be wise to seek out some additional information about flying. R/C Modeler, Harry Higley and Model Airplane News all publish very good basic flight training books that explain flying in greater depth. Y ou may also wish to seek out a computer simulator. Great Planes and Dave Brown both make excellent flight simulators that can be very effective at teaching the basic coordination of R/C flight.

If you do decide you have no choice but to learn to

fly on your own, choosing the place to fly your new airplane is of the utmost importance. Select your potential flying field with the following considerations:

3) While R/C flying is generally safe, it can lead to serious harm or injury . Do not try to fly your model if there are any houses or people nearby .

4) The takeoff surface should be short grass, hard packed dirt, concrete or asphalt. The surface should be smooth and free from any small rocks or holes. You don't want anything to interfere with the plane as you taxi, takeoff and land.

5) No high-lines, telephone lines or electrical lines should be near the flying site. If your plane accidentally does fly into wires of some kind do not try to retrieve it yourself! Serious injury or even death could result. Contact the local police or fire department. They can send somebody to help you retrieve the airplane safely .

BASICS of FLIGHT

To begin you should know how the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II operates. First, there are four forces operating on a flying aircraft: Lift, Weight, Thrust and Drag. The engine will create thrust to overcome the drag. In times when the engine is off, gravity pulling the plane down can act as thrust (how gliders work). The wing flies through the air as a result of the thrust and causes lift to overcome the weight of the aircraft.

Lift

Thrust

Weight

Controlling the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II

Flying is three dimensional, therefore, all aircraft operate on three axis: roll, yaw and pitch. Roll is the wing tips raising and lowering. Y aw is the nose moving from right to left. Pitch is seen as the nose moving up and down. Maintaining flight is the act of overcoming weight and drag with lift and thrust while properly controlling all three axis.

Yaw

Drag

Roll

1) Look for a long, wide runway . The bigger it is, the easier it is to find when landing. Optimum sites are large grass fields and dry lake beds.

2) The fewer the ground obstructions the better! No close trees, small hills, large rocks or buildings should be nearby.

Pitch

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Choosing the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II as your first airplane greatly simplifies these activities. First, it takes very little thrust to overcome the drag. So much so that the airplane glides well with no power at all. Second, the wing is a high lift design that easily overcomes the weight which means that the airplane can fly very slowly.

Controlling the plane

If you have never controlled any vehicle by radio control, then this step can be especially important. Some of the basic coordination can be learned on the ground by simply practicing taxiing the aircraft. First, remove the wing and cover the open area of the fuselage, where the wing would normally go, with a thin piece of cardboard. This will protect the radio equipment from engine exhaust.

Check the controls. Make sure the throttle and steering are working properly . Start your engine and at low throttle, try driving the airplane around on the ground. A large, unused parking lot is especially good for this practice. Remember, moving the stick to the right or left is in relation to the airplane's right or left. Keep practicing, it will take some getting used to. Try figure 8's and rectangular patterns. Don't go to fast! The Right Flyer 40T Mk.II is not a car! This will also give you a chance to make sure the nose gear steering tracks straight. It may be necessary to adjust the steering linkage.

Learn to control the throttle too. Most flying will be done at less than full throttle. However, takeoffs will be at full throttle and landings will be with throttle at idle of completely off. So, get used to setting the throttle at different speeds.

If you can easily steer the airplane around on the ground, it's time to take that experience and apply it to flight. First, let's lay out the basic maneuvers that will make up your training flights.

1) T akeoff

2) Climb-out

3) Level Flight

4) Standard Turns

5) Descent

6) Landing

All flight is based on these few tasks. Here, we've laid them out in the same order they will be during flight. Learn these basics and you will soon fly your Right Flyer 40T Mk.II with great success. Now look at each maneuver individually. Before flight, make sure you are completely familiar with the functions of the transmitter including all controls and trim tabs.

Takeoff and climb-out requires that the plane be facing into the wind. Make small adjustments to the rudder control stick to keep the plane tracking straight as engine power is increased. Allow the airplane to continue to roll on the ground until the airplane is moving fast. Gently apply a small amount of up elevator to lift the nose. The wing will lift the plane off the ground. At this point let off of the rudder and use the ailerons to keep the wings level. Use the elevator to keep the nose up slightly . Allow the plane to climb on its own. Climbing too fast will cause the plane to pitch up, stop flying, and the nose will drop rapidly. This is called a stall. If this happens, allow the nose to drop slightly (which will give the airplane more speed) and then apply a small amount of up elevator to bring the nose level.

Once the airplane has reached 50 to 100 feet of altitude, it is time to level the plane and then try a turn. To level the plane, simply move the elevator stick to neutral. Keep the wings level using the ailerons. If the plane still climbs slightly or turns, adjust the trim tabs until the airplane flies straight with no stick input.

Now try a turn (before the airplane gets too far away). To turn, apply aileron until the wing drops about 15 degrees (or the wing tip is just below the fuselage). As the wing drops begin to apply up elevator. Up elevator will maintain the plane's altitude and will hold it in the turn. T o prevent the plane from turning too steep, as soon as a good bank is established, release the aileron control. Use only the elevator to maintain altitude and hold the plane in the turn. Once it has turned enough, apply opposite aileron to level the wings. As this opposite aileron is applied, slowly release the up elevator.

Now continue level flight, which will be a small series of tiny corrections of elevator and aileron to keep the plane straight and level. If you lost altitude during the turn, this is a good time to climb out again.

Before the plane gets too far away, try another turn. Continue making standard turns and keep the airplane over the flying field.

The next maneuver will be descent. Usually , one pairs descent with landing, but in fact, most model airplanes are constantly descending and climbing out. Having the ability to perform a good controlled descent is important. To descend, simply throttle back to about 1/4 throttle. As the throttle is reduced, allow the plane's nose to drop some.

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The descent should be gentle so let the nose drop about 10 to 20 degrees. Keep the wing level unless a turn is required. If you must turn, bank as usual to start the turn but only hold about half of the normal amount of up elevator you usually hold to maintain a turn. In doing so, you will not slow the airplane too much. When you've reached your desired altitude, level the wings and add throttle as you add some up elevator to level the plane.

The final maneuver will be landing. For your first landing, the goal should be to get the plane down anywhere on the field without hitting anything. Landings should always be made into the wind. Usually, it is easiest to set up for a landing by making a landing approach. The first part of the landing approach is the descent. Descend going with the wind (opposite of the direction you will be landing). Once you've descended to an altitude of 30-50 feet, turn into the wind. At this point level the wings, throttle back to idle and allow the nose to drop to descend to the ground without getting too slow. When the plane is 10 feet off the ground (just above eye level), apply small amounts of up elevator to slow the descent and to slow the plane. Remember to keep the wings level. Now the plane should descend but will seem like the nose has not dropped much. If the plane doesn't descend, allow the nose to drop a little. Just before the plane touches down, apply some up elevator to the level the plane with the ground. Because the engine is at idle (or off completely) the plane will still drop and touch down.

Things to avoid

1) Stalling. Stalling is when the air stops flowing over the wing properly. For the Right Flyer 40T Mk.II, this only happens when the airplane is flying very slow. A stall normally results in the nose dropping uncontrollably. If a stall does occur, allow the nose to drop, which will increase the airspeed, then apply up elevator to level the plane. Remember to not pull too much up elevator or the stall may occur again.

2) Radical Turns. Keeping the wings level or making standard turns are big steps in preventing the plane from getting gout of control. If the plane seems too fast or is getting into too steep a turn, try letting all the controls go to neutral, then reduce the throttle and make corrections to level the wings and then level the plane.

correction. T ypically, you will need very little down elevator as well. Remember to move the stick only small amounts at a time. The radio control system you are using is proportional meaning the amount you move the stick is in direct proportion to the amount the control surface moves. Full deflection of the control surfaces is typically reserved for correcting a major mistake or trying an aerobatic maneuver .

Planning the first flight

After reading through the maneuvers, you need to plan your first flight. For your first flight, pick a day that is clear and not windy . Too much wind will complicate your first flight. Take the time to envision the flight path. The flight will, of course, begin with take off and climb-out. Once a safe altitude has been reached, make a turn down wind and continue to climb. Level off at about 100 feet of altitude. Try to perform a basic figure 8 pattern. Learn to make small corrections to keep your plane pointed in the direction you want it to fly. After 8 to 10 minutes, begin your descent to land. Try to turn into the wind to land. If you're first landing gets the plane down in one piece and is located somewhere on the flying field, that's pretty good!

Picture yourself flying the plane before trying to actually fly it. It may seem silly, but even professional pilots still review their maneuvers in their head before flying. Military pilots use small hand held models to help them picture the plane's movements.

Leave the plane's radio and engine off. Hold the transmitter in your hand and set the airplane on the ground, facing into the wind. Apply throttle and imagine steering the model straight down the runway. Continue to imagine each one of the flight maneuvers and what you have to do on the sticks to keep the plane flying. Remember to pull back on the stick for up elevator and turning the plane right or left in relation to the airplane, not to your right or left. It helps to imagine yourself actually in the cockpit while you're flying.

Before trying the first flight, check that the engine is running properly. Perform a range check as described in your radio system manual and make sure the batteries have a full charge.

We hope this information will help you make those first few flights successful.

3) Overcontrolling. Most new pilots try to fly like they are playing a video game. Most likely , you will never need full stick movement for any

Happy Landings!

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GLOSSARY OF TERMS

Adjustable Connector: Connects to the servo arm. The pushrod wire passes through the connector and is held in place with a set screw. The screw can be loosened to allow the pushrod wire to be adjusted to the correct length.

Hinges: Usually made out of plastic, the hinges connect the control surfaces to the stabilizers or wing. They pivot allowing the control surface to move.

Horizontal Stabilizer: Mounted in the rear of the airplane, the stabilizer works with the elevator to control pitch.

C/A Glue: An acronym for Cyanoacrylate. It dries very fast like "Super Glue". It comes in many different formulas for different uses.

Center of Gravity: Most commonly referred to as the CG or balance point, it is the point at which the airplane is in complete balance in all three axis.

Clevis: Part of the control system, either made out of nylon or metal. It connects the pushrod wire to the control horn mounted on the control surface.

Clevis Attachment Holes: The molded holes in the control horn. The clevis attaches to these holes.

Control Horn: Part of the control system, the control horn is mounted to the control surface. It allows the pushrod to be connected to the control surface. Most all control horns are adjustable to allow for more or less control surface movement.

Covering: Material made out of vinyl or polyester. Covering has heat sensitive adhesive that when heated, sticks to the wood frame of the airplane. The Airmaster II uses heat sensitive polyester covering.

Dihedral: The upward angle of each wing half. Dihedral creates more stability that makes learning to fly much easier.

Dihedral Brace: Made out of plywood, the dihedral brace strengthens the joint between two wing sections.

Elevator: The elevator is the control surface on the back of the airplane that moves up and down. This surface controls pitch.

Epoxy: A two part glue containing a resin and a hardener. Epoxy is available in several drying times and is stronger than C/A glue. Epoxy is used in high stress areas such as joining wing halves.

Pushrods: Connect between the control surface and the servo. Transfers the movement of the servo to the control surface.

Pushrod Housing: A tube that is usually nylon. The pushrod wire runs through the housing.

Receiver: The part of the radio system that receives the signals from the transmitter.

Rudder: The rudder is the control surface on the back of the airplane that moves right and left. This causes the nose of the airplane to yaw right and left.

Servo: The part of the radio system that produces the movement necessary to move the control surfaces. The servo includes a small motor, gears and a circuit board to function.

Servo Arm: Connects to the servo, the servo arm allows the pushrod to connect to the servo.

Servo Reversing: An option on most all new radios, servo reversing allows you to change the direction a servo rotates by just flipping a switch on the transmitter.

Servo T ray: Usually made out of plywood, the servo tray is the mounting base for the servos.

Stall Speed: The speed at which air stops moving fast enough over the surface of a wing to keep the airplane flying.

Threaded Pushrod: A length of wire that has threads cut into one end of it. See Pushrods.

Transmitter: The part of the radio system that you control. It transmits the control inputs to the receiver, which transfers that information to the servos.

Trim Tab: A sliding tab on the transmitter that allows you make small adjustments to the control surfaces from the transmitter.

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Vertical Stabilizer: Mounted on the rear of the airplane, it works with the rudder to turn the airplane. It also gives the airplane vertical stability .

Wing Hold Down Dowels: Round pieces of hardwood dowels inserted through the fuselage at the front and back of the wing. They are anchors for the rubber bands that hold the wing onto the fuselage.

Wing Saddle: The portion of the fuselage where the wing mounts on to.

NOTES

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PRPR

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our addr ess faces out.

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1) Kit: Right Flyer 40T Mk.II

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

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3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

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