Georgia-Pacific Decorative Wall Panel User Manual

Decorative Wall Panel Installation Instructions

Always remember to follow these important steps when installing decorative wall panels:

1 Condition the panels. 2 Prepare the walls. 3 Space the panels. 4 Use proper nailing and/or gluing patterns.

Please read the Decorative Wall Panel Installation Instructions in their entirety before proceeding!

These instructions describe the proper methods for installing Georgia-Pacific decorative wall panels.
These panels are intended for dry interior use only and require care in handling.

1. Conditioning Panels

Condition panels by placing them in the room to be paneled 48 hours
prior to installation. Stack the panels on the floor or lean them against
a wall, with spacers between each sheet. This allows the room air to
circulate around each panel for proper acclimation. Only Lionite®

Tileboard has a finish that is moisture, stain, and scuff resistant.
All other pre-finished interior wall paneling have finishes that
are not considered moisture resistant and should not be
installed in areas subject to moisture or high humidity. All
Georgia-Pacific decorative wall paneling should be stored flat
and off the ground in a dry area prior to installation.

2. Wall Preparation

Hardboard and MDF Installing panels over existing true walls requires

no preliminary preparation. Sanding high spots on the wall is generally
about all you have to do. In most homes, studs are spaced 16” on
center, but 24” centers and other spacing may exist especially in
exterior walls. Stud spacing must be determined, since panels must
be nailed through the backing into studs or furring 16” on center for
maximum holding.

Measure stud centers and snap vertical chalklines along the wall for
each stud. If studs are over 16” on center, install horizontal furring 16”
on center following recommendations in section 10. If you’re paneling
over a new wall, check your local building codes to see if you’re allowed
to install panels 1/4” and thicker directly to studs without a backing.
Panels thinner than 1/4” will require installation of a non-combustible
backer over the studs, such as gypsum wallboard. Exterior walls must
be insulated and have a 4 mil or greater vapor retarder installed on
the side of the wall required in local building codes.

Tileboard Tileboard must be applied to a continuous solid non­combustible backing. Do not apply panels directly to studs or furring
strips. On masonry walls (concrete, brick or cinder block) a framework
of furring strips or studs overlaid with water-resistant gypsum
wallboard is suitable for tileboard application. Exterior walls must
have insulation and a minimum 4 mil vapor retarder installed
beneath the solid backing.

Arrange Panels If you have chosen simulated woodgrain panels,
take a few minutes to stand the panels side-by-side around the room.
Arrange them to achieve the most pleasing balance of color and
grain pattern, then number the back of each panel in sequence.

3. Cutting Panels

MDF and Hardboard If measured floor-to-ceiling height is 8’ or

less, subtract 1/2” from this measurement to allow 1/4” expansion
clearance top and bottom.

Transfer these measurements to panels for cutting. If using a handsaw
or table saw, mark and cut the panels face up. If using a portable
circular saw or sabre saw, mark and cut panels face down. Cut-outs
for door and window sections, electrical switches and outlets or heat
registers require careful measurements. Many a good paneling job
has been ruined by inaccurate cutting for outlet boxes or heat
registers. One method is to mark the outlet box with chalk. Then,
place the properly cut panel on the wall and tap at the outlet
location. This will transfer an image to the back of the panel and
indicate the area for cutting. A 1/4” gap around this area will provide
room for spacing and adjustment—the faceplate will cover up the
extra space. On an existing wall, adjust the outlet box to meet panel
thickness. Unscrew at the top and bottom, wedge a small paneling
scrap at screw locations, and tighten.

Tileboard See Spacing, Fitting and Tub and Shower Installation sections.

4. Spacing Between Panels

Hardboard and MDF A 1/16” gap between adjacent panels is

recommended to allow for expansion. Never butt panels tightly. A
3/16” space should be provided around windows and doors.

Tileboard Installation
With a Divider Strip

For tileboard installation
with divider strips, leave
a 3/16” gap between
panels, including 1/16”
between panel edge
and the inside of
the moulding.

Tileboard Installation Without a Divider Strip For tileboard
installation without divider strips, seal 1/8” space between panels
with a high-quality silicone caulk. For a pleasing appearance, and a
secure seal, carefully caulk around the tub.

be dry before caulking. Wet adhesive may discolor caulk.

Note: Panel adhesive must

5. Fitting Panels

Hardboard and MDF Put the first panel in place and bring to

adjacent wall in the corner allowing 1/16” space. Make sure it is
plumb and both left and right panel edges fall on solid stud backing.
The panel may have to be trimmed to allow the outer edge to fall on
the center of a stud for nailing. Also, on rough walls, or adjoining a
fireplace wall, use a pencil compass to mark the panel on the inner
edge, then cut on the scribe line to fit around the obstruction. Before
nailing the panels, paint a stripe of color to match the panels groove
color on the wall location where the panels will meet.

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Tileboard Start installation at an inside corner. Scribe (mark) and
trim panel to fit plumb (vertical). Continue to fit panels making sure
that each successive one is plumb.

between panels.

Note: Leave a 1/8” caulking space

6. Adhesive Application

Adhesive application should be used to apply Hardboard and 1/4”
MDF*. 1/8” and 5/32” MDF requires both adhesive and nails.

Hardboard and MDF Adhesive should be used to apply panels
directly to studs or over existing walls as long as the surface is level,
sound and clean. Once the panel is fitted, apply beads of adhesive
with a caulking gun in a continuous strip along the top, bottom and
both sides of the panel. On intermediate studs, apply beads 3” long
and 6” apart. Over solid backing, apply adhesive in a zigzag pattern
between studs. Some supplemental nailing will be necessary to hold
the panel in place until the adhesive sets. Be sure to read the
adhesive manufacturer’s instructions carefully prior to installation, as
instructions may vary. Use a hammer and padded wood block (or
rubber mallet) to set the glued panel in position.

*Use only a latex water based adhesive with MDF panels. Solvent
based adhesive may cause discoloration of finishes on MDF panels.

7. Cementing — Tileboard only

First, thoroughly clean the surface—sanding if necessary—to ensure
a smooth, tight bond. Clean any dust from the back of the panels.
Do not nail panels in place.

Use a good-quality adhesive and spread according to manufacturer’s
instructions. With a 3/16” notched trowel, scrape the panel so that
you leave only ridges of adhesive covering the entire back surface of
the panel. If you are using moulding, insert prior to setting panels
permanently in place.

Now carefully set the panels in place and press them firmly against the
wall. After 15 minutes press panels again to ensure proper adhesion.

8. Tub and Shower Installation (Tileboard Only)

In addition to the recommendations in section 7, securely seal all
edges and joints with a silicone caulk to prevent water entry. Caulk
all gaps where water or moisture can enter and cause damage to the
product or structure. Apply according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Installation With a Divider Strip For tileboard installation with
divider strips, leave a 3/16” gap between panels, including 1/16”
between panel edge and the inside of the moulding.

Installation Without a Divider Strip For tileboard installation
without divider strips, seal 1/8” space between panels with a
high-quality silicone caulk. For a pleasing appearance, and a secure
seal, carefully caulk around the tub.

Note: Panel adhesive must be

dry before caulking. Wet adhesive may discolor caulk.

9. Nailing Panels

Hardboard and MDF Panel grooves are usually located every 16”,

allowing nails to be placed in the grooves on standard 16” stud centers.
Panel matching colored ringshank nails are recommended. Use 1”
nails to apply paneling to studs alone, 1-1/2” nails to apply paneling
to a solid backing or plaster. Space nails 6” along panel edges and
8” on intermediate studs. Wear eye protection when nailing.

Tileboard Do not nail tileboard. See Cementing and Tub and
Shower Installation instructions.

10. Installing Paneling over Masonry

NOTE: Not all panels are approved for below-grade use or over
masonry walls. Please consult the instructions printed on the back
of each panel to determine suitability for this application. Excessive
moisture conditions and high humidity will require correction prior to
paneling installation.

NOTE: If installing panels that are less than

1/4” thick

, a solid
non-combustible backing such as gypsum wallboard must be placed
over the furring strips before application of the panels.

Quarter inch (1/4”) panels can be applied direct to furring. The
construction of a lightweight wood frame system (furring strips) will
allow paneling to be applied to masonry walls (concrete, brick and
cinder block) or walls in bad repair. Furring strips are 1” x 2” lumber
or 1/2” plywood cut into strips 1-1/2” wide. Strips should run
horizontally 16” apart (based on 8’ ceiling) with vertical members
spaced 48” on center where panels meet. Allow 1/2” space at the
floor and ceiling with the horizontal strips. Check with a level to
make sure each furring strip is flush with the first strip. Use wood
shingles or wedges between the wall and strips to assure a uniformly
flat surface. Furring strips may be applied to a masonry wall with
specially hardened masonry nails. A badly damaged masonry wall may
require the construction of a 2” x 3” stud wall, with 16” stud centers,
before applying panels.

Masonry walls partially or fully below ground level (below grade)
may present a serious dampness problem. Exterior walls must be
insulated and have a 4 mil or greater vapor retarder. Holes or cracks
in masonry walls must be patched with concrete patching compound
and weeping or porous walls must be waterproofed before installing
paneling. In either case, consult the masonry product manufacturer
for specific application instructions.

11. Wainscot Application

For a unique look use wainscoting to combine panel types. An eight­foot panel cut into thirds will wainscot a 12’ wall to a height of 32”.
Apply wainscoting along lower wall by following instructions for
panel installation. Repeat same steps with the upper wall. Hide the
horizontal seam with a chair rail moulding.

12. Panel Maintenance

Georgia-Pacific pre-finished panels are suitable for normal dry
interior use environments. Georgia-Pacific pre-finished paneling
should not be used in environments where accumulation of grease,
smoke, or other contaminants will require frequent cleaning to
remove accumulations. To remove surface accumulations such as
dust, wipe with a soft cloth dampened with a furniture polish
containing no waxes or silicones. More stubborn accumulations may
require wiping with a soft cloth dampened with a solution of
lukewarm water and a mild liquid detergent. Wipe dry immediately
following this procedure with a clean dry cloth. Tileboard is practi­cally maintenance-free. It never needs wax and can be cleaned with
a mild soap on a damp cloth or sponge. Never use abrasive cleansers
on panels as it will scratch the finish and dull the panel gloss.
Self-adhering tapes may contain solvents in their adhesives. Applying
to panels may dissolve the protective coating and damage the panel.

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