Genuine Stella 2T Service Manual

SERVICE STATION MANUALSERVICE STATION MANUAL

SERVICE STATION MANUALSERVICE STATION MANUAL

FOREWORD

Genuine Scooter Company and LML Limited have joined forces to produce a world-class

motor scooter specifically for the North American market. Genuine Scooter Company

presents the STELLA scooter here with a thorough description and detailed manual suitable

for use by any professional service facility within their dealer network.

STELLA is a wonderful combination of efforts, "designed in Italy by people who know great

design, assembled and modified in Asia by expert manufacturers at LML, and marketed in

North America by people who have built credibility in the scooter business for over 10

years."

We proudly introduce STELLA, and wish you many years of safe, fun, and economical

scootering.

This manual will provide you with :

l General instructions on vehicle maintenance.

l General instructions for eliminating faults and irregularities.

l Illustration and instructions for dismantling, overhauling and reassembly.

This manual also describes in detail the various tools available through Genuine Scooter

Company. We may, at a later date, introduce addendums or further updates to this useful

manual.

Kindly address all your communications in this regard to the following address.

Customer Care

Genuine Scooter Company

5400 North Damen Ave.
Chicago, Illinois
60625

www.genuinescooters.com

1

CONTENTS

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

GENERAL INFORMATION 4

ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS 10

AIR - FUEL SYSTEM 29

CARE AND MAINTENANCE 45

RECOMMENDED OILS AND LUBRICANTS 63

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS 65

DISMANTLING - OVERHAULING - REASSEMBLY 71

ENGINE 72

ASSEMBLY CLEARANCES, TOLERANCES & LIMITS 83

IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES 85

ENGINE FOUNDATION BUFFERS & TUBE 92

CHASSIS 94

FAULT FINDING AND REMEDIES 110

SUITABLE RECOMENDATIONS 112

2

GENERAL INFORMATION

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 5

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 6

INTRODUCTION 8

SAFETY FIRST! 9

3

VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION

The vehicle is identified by two numbers: One
number is on the chassis and another is on the
engine.
The chassis identification number is stamped on the
right hand side of the rear portion of the chassis
frame (Fig. 1): The first row of this number will begin
MD7CG84A..., and the second row will have 8
characters.

The engine number is stamped on the crankcase
(Fig. 2), and will have the prefix E17...3 followed by 8
characters.

Fig. 1

Chassis Identification Number

3

7

1 Y

E

*

*

X

X

X X X

*

X

*

Each Stella scooter comes with one set of duplicate
keys; both keys are stamped with an identification
number. Remember where you place your duplicate
key.

Fig. 2

Engine Identification Number

Fig. 3

Keys

4

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION

DIMENSIONS

Overall length 5.77 feet 1760 mm
Overall width 2.28 feet 695 mm
Wheel base 4.05 feet 1235 mm
Maximum road clearance 0.52 feet 160 mm
Seat height 2.69 feet 820 mm
WEIGHT
Vehicle dry weight 240 lbs 109 kg
Maximum technically permissible mass 595 lbs 270 kg

ENGINE Single cylinder, two stroke, forced air cooled with

rotary distribution, 5 transfer ports and reed valve
induction with catalytic converter.

Displacement 149.56 cc
Bore 2.27 feet 57.8 mm
Stroke 2.24 feet 57.0 mm
Compression ratio 9.0 ± 0.5 :1
Maximum output/power 8 ± 0.3 bhp @ 5500 ± 200 RPM
Ignition System Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) Electronic
Ignition timing 20° ± 2° before TDC
FUEL Un-leaded 87 octane petrol with automatic mixing of

Motorcycle-Formulated Two stroke oil

Fuel tank capacity 2.11 gallon (inclusive of 0.26 gallon in reserve)

Oil tank capacity 0.26 gallon

Fuel Cock Three way tap. Open (ON), Close (C), Reserve (R)

CARBURETTOR SPACO - 20 / 20D, Downdraft, 20 mm venturi

SPARK PLUG RN9YC - Champion,

B6ES - NGK,
WR8DC - Mico

Spark plug gap 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm
STARTING Push button for autostart &

kick pedal for manual start.

CLUTCH Multiplate, oil bath type.

5

DESCRIPTION

TRANSMISSION 4 speed constant mesh

Over all gear ratio

1st gear 15.38:1
2nd gear 10.46:1
3rd gear 7.24:1
4th gear 5.39:1

CHASSIS Pressed steel sheet, monocoque structure.
Steering column The steering column is connected at the front wheel

swinging hub.

Suspension Turbo Cushion front and rear suspension with helical

spring and hydraulic dampers.

BRAKES

Front brake Hydraulic Disc brake.
Rear brake Drum brake, mechanical expanding shoe type.

TYRE

Front & Rear 3.5 x 10" (89 x 254mm) 4 Ply rating, interchangeable.

Tyre pressure

Front 22 psi *
Rear 29 psi *

* - Varies with temperature.

CONTROLS

Steering By Handle bar
Accelerator Twist grip type on right side of handle bar
Gears By hand on left side of the handle bar
Clutch Lever operated on left side of the handle bar
Front brake Lever operated by right hand
Rear brake Pedal operated by right foot

ELECTRICALS

Generator System 12 Volt 96 Watt flywheel Magneto
Head light bulb 12 Volt 35/35 Watt
Front position bulb 12 Volt 5 Watt
Tail light bulb 12 Volt 5 Watt
Stop light bulb 12 Volt 10 Watt
Speedo light bulb 12 Volt - 1.2 Watt x 2
Turn signal light bulb 12 Volt - 21 Watt x 4
Tell tale lamp bulb 12 Volt - 1.2 Watt x 6
Horn 12 Volt DC Horn
Battery 12 Volt 9 Ah
Fuse 8 Amp.

MAXIMUM SPEED 55 mph in 4th Gear

6

INTRODUCTION

Stella is powered by a revolutionary, new generation energy saving and fuel efficient, 150cc, 5-Port engine
with Reed valve Induction, 'AOM' (Automatic oil mixture) and Catalytic converter. The 5 transfer port engine
includes two auxiliary ports on each side of one booster port, and an exhaust port for emission.

A reed valve controls the entry of air fuel mixture into the combustion chamber. This maximizes the fuel flow in
one direction, and results in optimum intake timing throughout operation range.

Advantage of 5 port engine with reed valve induction :

1. Improved recovery efficiency, resulting in better performance at any rpm.

2. Short circuit losses are minimized.

3. Reduced Carbon Monoxide & Hydrocarbon emission.

4. Improved pickup.

Reed valve :

Reed valve assy. is a long life component and does not require regular service. In case of a problem, check to
see that the gasket between reed valve and the air cleaner box is intact, as well as the gasket between
crankcase and reed valve. Under no circumstances should the reed valve or its stopper plate screw be
disturbed. In order to separate the crankcase halves, or to replace the crankcase, the Reed Valve has to be
removed and reinstalled.

Catalytic converter :

The catalytic converter is an emission control device converts toxic gases (Carbon Monoxide, Hydrocarbons
and oxides of Nitrogen) into eco-friendly gases (Carbon dioxide, water vapour and Nitrogen) which reduces
the air pollution from the exhaust gases. The catalytic converter has been installed inside the silencer assy.

To make Catalytic converter more effective for longer period:

1. Fill only unleaded petrol in the fuel tank.

2. Use only quality motorcycle formula two stroke oils.

3. Use only genuine and recommended spare parts.

To get best out of your vehicle fitted with Catalytic converter.

1. Keep the engine properly tuned.

2. Do not abruptly switch off the engine when the transmission is engaged, or vehicle is in motion.

3. Do not drive the vehicle with choke knob pulled.

4. Do not overload / over throttle the vehicle.

5. Never drive the vehicle down hill with ignition 'OFF'.

6. Do not idle the engine for a prolonged period.

7. Do not try to push start the vehicle.

8. Avoid misfiring the engine.

9. Ensure the "CO" level is within specified norms.

Precautions :

Since the silencer fitted with Catalytic converter can be extremely hot during running of vehicle, do
not touch the silencer to avoid serious burns.

7

SAFETY FIRST!

Scooter mechanics are professionally trained to follow the safe working

procedures. A moment’s lack of attention or failure to observe certain

elementry precautions can result in an accident.

WARNING

Fire : Remember that the petrol is highly in-flammable. Never smoke, or have

any kind of naked flame in the workshop. Proper care has to be taken for

electrical short circuiting as this can ignite petrol vapour.

Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on fuel and

electrical system. Never risk spilling petrol on a hot engine or exhaust.

It is recommended that a suitable fire extinguisher for fuel and electrical fires is

kept handy in the workshop. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with

water.

WARNING

Fumes : Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause

unconsciousness and even death if inhaled.

Never run the engine of a vehicle in a closed space as exhaust fumes contain

carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the

engine, always run the same in open air or at least the rear portion of the

vehicle should be outside the work place.It is better allow an exit for exhaust

smoke through a pipe and have air ventilation in the workshop.

WARNING

Battery : Take care while topping up the distilled water in the battery as the

electrolyte is very corrosive.

The electrolyte should not come in the contact with eyes or skin.

8

ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS

DESCRIPTION

PAGE NO.

WIRING DIAGRAMS 11

ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM 12

Principle of operation 13

Electronic ignition units test 14

CDI - [Capacitor Discharge Ignition] 14
H.T. coil 14
Charging coil 15
Pick up coil 15

Ignition timing 16

ELECTRONIC LIGHTING SYSTEM 17

Testing of fly-wheel magneto (A.C.Section) 17
Testing of fly-wheel magneto (D.C.Section) 17
Testing of Voltage regulator (A.C.Section) 18

Flasher unit and buzzer 19

TESTING OF ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONIC PARTS 20
Horn, Fuel gauge, Instrument panels,

SELF STARTER SYSTEM 21
Battery 22
PRD (Preventive restarting device) 25
Cut-out relay 25
Starter motor 26

LIGHT SWITCHES 28
(Main switch, Blinker switch, Engine kill switch and brake switch)

9

10

ENGINE KILL SWITCH

(WITH NEUTRAL & STOP LIGHT)

NEUTRAL SWITCH

LIGHT GREEN-RED

P
O
T
S

N

11

ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM

An Electronic ignition device (CDI unit) feeds the
current to a high voltage transformer (H T Coil) to
generate the spark and is controlled by a key operated
switch.
Advantages : When compared with a traditional
/conventional ignition system both with magneto and
with battery, the electronic ignition with 'discharge of
condenser' is advantageous on electrical and
mechanical nature. The principal advantages are as
follows:
A. Electrical nature : The particular advantage of a
H.T. discharge with electronic ignition viz-a-viz to
conventional ignition is the 'Generation of A HIGH
TENSION PEAK IN A VERY SHORT TIME WITH A
Longer length of spark WHICH ENSURES better
ignition.'

It facilitates :

1. Regular running of the engine.

2. Easier start for a cold engine.

3. Better life of spark plug because of lesser
electrode wear.

4. Lesser possibility of bridge formation in between
the main and ground electrode of spark plug.

B. Mechanical nature : No maintenance is required
because of absence of moving parts exposed to
wear & tear such as contact breaker point, cam unit
etc.

It facilitates :

1. Unalterable ignition timing.

2. Insensitive to the atmospheric agents.

3. Regular engine running even at higher speeds.

4. Regular ignition even after long period of non use
of vehicle.

12

Fig. 4

(Components of Ignition system)

Principle of operation :

The fig.5 shows main components of magneto
(Charging coil & Pickup coil), CDI & HT coil. (a) A 6
pole inductor rotor generates a voltage in charging
coil which is fed to capacitor 'C' through diode 'D1'

(b) The diode D1 rectifies the AC current to DC and

charges the capacitor.

(c) The pickup coil gives a signal at prefixed

periodical instant (due to set ignition timing) and
provides control signal at the gate of Silicon
Controlled Rectfier (SCR).

(d) The SCR thus conducts and allows the capacitor

to discharge, through primary winding of HT coil.

(e) HT coil secondary winding transforms the

voltage to high tension and delivers to spark
plug.

(f) A safety diode 'D2' is provided across the out put

to safeguard the SCR from damage by earthing
the surge voltage through diode 'D2'.

Fig.5 - Schematic Diagram

13

ELECTRONIC IGNITION UNITS TEST

C.D.I. (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) :

It consists of two diodes, capacitor and SCR. The
current from charging coil charges the capacitor
and discharges to the primary winding of High
Tension coil through SCR on receiving the signal
from pick up.

Test : For testing defective CDI, connect the same
in place of a C.D.I. working on a running scooter. If
the scooter starts easily, the unit is good. If it does
not start, the unit is defective and needs to be
replaced.

High Tension coil :

This is a step up transformer having primary and
secondary windings on a laminated core. Primary
winding receives a voltage and steps up on
secondary winding upto 25 - 32 KV.

Fig. 6

Fig. 7

Test : For testing defective H.T. coil, connect the
same in place of a H.T.coil already working on a
running scooter. If the scooter starts, the unit is
good. If it does not start, the unit is defective.

Check resistance at various points :

Disconnect the wires from the ignition coil and
measure the primary coil resistance as shown in fig.8

Primary coil resistance : 0.4 to 0.5 W
Disconnect the H.T. lead from the spark plug.
Measure the secondary coil resistance as shown in
fig. 9.

Secondary coil resistance : 3.30 to 3.5 K W

Suppressor cap resistance : 5K + 1.25 K W

IMPORTANT

Fig. 8

This is a sealed unit hence no repairs can be carried
out and the unit has to be replaced if it is not
functioning.

14

Fig. 9

Charging coil :

It is a coil wounded on a laminated core and
generates a voltage of 200V–300 V A.C. for
charging of condenser inside the CDI. The
serviceability of charging coil can be checked by:

(i) Checking the ohmic value across Green

and White wire which should be : 390 ± 20 W.
(Fig. 10)

(ii) Connecting a Neon bulb of 220 V (in series with

resistance) across Green and White wires. Kick
the scooter to rotate magneto, the neon bulb
should glow simultaneously.

CHARGING COIL TESTING

Fig. 10

Pick up coil :

It generates a signal impulse which is directed at
the gate of SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier)
and allows the charged capacitor to discharge
through SCR when signal is received. The
serviceability of pickup coil can be checked by :

1. Checking the ohmic value across the Red and
White wires. It should be : 110 ± 15 W.

2. Connecting L.E.D. of 1.5 volt across Red and
White wires, kick over the scooter, to rotate
m a g n e t o . T h e L . E . D . sh o u l d fl a s h
simultaneously.

PICK UP COIL TESTING

Fig. 11

15

IGNITION TIMING

Checking :

(a) Take out the right side cowl.

(b) Remove the H.T. lead from spark plug and

connect it to one cable of the stroboscope
(Timing light gun ).

(c) Connect second cable of stroboscope to the

spark plug.

(d) Start the scooter and focus the light of

stroboscope on the timing mark of fan cover
(fig. 12).

(e) Accelerate the RPM to approx. 3500 to 4000

and ensure that the pin 'P' mark on the rotor fan
coincides with the 'IT' mark on the flywheel
cover (fig. 13).

(f) If the marks do not coincide, correct by adjusting

the stator plate assy.

Setting :

(a) In the electronic ignition, no mechanical parts

are exposed to wear, so the timing remains at all
times practically unaltered.

Fig.12 - Checking by Stroboscope

P

Fig.13 - Coinciding the marks P & IT

(b) If the stator plate is removed for possible

replacement then while re-assembling, it is
important that the mark on the back plate is in
line with the corresponding mark on the crank
case (fig. 14).

16

Fig.14 - Coinciding of Stator Plate &

Crank Case marks

ELECTRONIC LIGHTING SYSTEM

Testing of fly wheel magneto :

A.C. Section : (lighting coils)

The output voltage from magneto (lighting coils) is

tested as under:

Connect the non inductive resistance of 1.92 W -

300W and a RMS voltmeter as per circuit diagrams

(fig. 15).

The regulator is disconnected (contacts 'A' 'OFF'

and 'B' 'ON' ) the voltage across the1.92 W - 300W

non inductive resistance should measure as under :

Volts R.P.M.

+ 1.5

- 0.0 1500

+ 0.5

13.6 - 0.0 3000

+ 1.0

– 0.5 5000

MAGNETO

R= 1.92 W - 300W
REGULATOR

Fig. 15

Testing of flywheel magneto(D.C. Section):

Measurement of charging current:

Connect D.C. voltmeter 'V' and D.C. Amp. meter 'A'

as shown in fig.16. Start the engine with charged

battery at constant voltage between 13 - 13.5 V.

The current generated by a magneto should be:

At 2000 r.p.m. 1-1.2 Amp.

At 5000 r.p.m. 2.0 - 2.2 Amp.*

(* Depending on the condition of the battery)

Measurement of regulated Voltage:

Connect D.C. voltmeter 'V' and D.C. Amp.meter

'A' as shown in fig.16 with a fully charged battery. At

no load the voltage should be 14-14.3 V at 5000

r.p.m.

Note :

The specification of voltmeter and Amp. meter are :
D.C. Amp. meter (min. full scale deflection
5 Amp.)
D.C. Voltmeter (min.full scale deflection 20 Volt
class 1)

Fig. 16

17

Testing of voltage regulator (A.C. section):

Check the regulator by connecting the same in a
scooter whose electrical system is performing
satisfactorily.

Following equipments are required for the test:

1. Voltmeter for measuring A.C.voltages at effective
value (R.M.S.) with 25-30 volts.

2. 1.92 W - 300 W approx. non inductive resistance.

3. Tachometer.

Testing procedure:

(a) Remove regulator by replacing it with the one to

be tested.

MAGNETO

REGULATOR

Do not connect the terminal which joins GREY
wire to avoid burning of bulbs if regulator is

defective.

(b) Connect one end of the non inductive

resistance 'R' (Ref. point 2 above) to earth,and
the other end to regulator terminal where GREY
wire has been disconnected.

(c) Connect voltmeter 'A' across the resistance and

let the engine run at a minimum 5000 r.p.m. If
voltage reading is between 12.5 to 15 volt, the
regulator is in perfect condition.

Test results :

1. Low voltage, than the specified range, indicates
that the regulator is defective (internal short
circuit)

2. High voltage, than the Higher voltage range
indicates that the regulator does not stabilize
voltage. This is the cause of burning out of
bulbs.

Fig. 17

In both cases the defective regulator has to be
replaced with a new regulator.

18

Flasher unit (Thermal cut out):
This is an electronic flasher, which provides
intermittent AC voltage to Turn signal lamp switch
approx. 80 ± 20 times/min.and provides signal to the
front and rear TSL bulbs. This is a sealed unit hence
it can’t be serviced. Replace in case of failure. To
check the unit, connect 12 V DC supply as shown
in fig.19 bulb should flash when the circuit is
switched on.

Buzzer:
This is connected to the circuit of the indicator and
the beeping sound indicates that the turn signal light
switch is in ‘ON’ position.
To check the buzzer, connect it directly to 12 V DC
supply. It should produce a clear audible sound
(fig. 19).

Fig. 18

Fig. 19

19

ELECTRICAL UNITS TEST:

Horn (On Battery) :

This unit functions on 12volt DC supply from battery
through horn switch to horn.
Check : Connect the input of 12 volt DC supply to
horn. The horn should blow at its normal level of
sound. In case of failure replace with a new horn.

Fuel Gauge

(a) The fuel gauge comprises of two separate units:
(1) Fuel Gauge unit is located in the speedometer.

(2) Float Unit is located under seat and inside the

fuel tank.

(b) The gauge unit has two windings 'A' & 'B'

placed at 90° from each other and are
connected across the 12 volt rectified supply.
One end of windings 'A' is connected to earth;
and the other with winding 'B' in series which
leads upto Resistance 'R' of the float unit.The
reading on gauge unit scale depends on the
current flowing through coil 'B' or the resistance
in circuit.The Resistance 'R' varies and depends
on the quantity of fuel in the tank which is
controlled by float unit.

Testing :
Gauge unit -

(a) Connect the unit across the 12 volt A.C.

supply (grey and black wire). (b) The gauge
shows 'E' ( Empty ).

(c) Connect the third wire ( white wire ) to earth

(black wire).

(d) If the unit shows 'F' ( Full ), it is in order.

Float unit:

(a) Remove the unit from the fuel tank and move the

float up and down slowly.

(b) The fuel gauge needle should move freely. (c) If

not, remove the white wire from float unit and
connect it to earth.

(d) The fuel gauge should show full. This confirms

that the float unit is not in order hence needs
replacement with a new one.

(e) Preferably the resistance of float unit should be

measured with an multimeter which should be
110 ± 10 W.

Fig.20

Fuel Gauge - Circuit Diagram

Fig.21

Gauge Unit - Circuit Diagram

20

INSTRUMENT PANEL

The instrument panel contains the followings:

1. Head Light High Beam Indicator

2. LH Turn Signal 'ON' Indicator

3. Neutral Indicator

4. Speed Indicator Needle

5. Odometer

6. Stop light indicator

7. RH Turn Signal 'ON' Indicator

8. Head Light Low Beam Indicator

9. Fuel gauge

SELF STARTER (ELECTRIC START) SYSTEM
Main components in circuit:

1. Battery 12V 9Ah

2. Fuse 8 Amp.

3. Regulator cum charger

4. P.R.D.

5. Declutch switch

6. Push switch

7. Ignition switch (AC/DC type)

8. Cut-out relay

9. Starter motor

N

STOP

Fig.22

Fig.23

Circuit Diagram - Self Starter

21

Battery
Storage:

Batteries are supplied dry charged and should
preferably be put to use within 12 months. It should
be stored in a cool and dry place, in an uniform
ambient temperature.
Inspection :
(a) Inspect the battery for any crack or damages
before filling-in the electrolyte.
(b) Wash and clean with tap water.
(c) Remove adhesive tape, sealed tube from vent
hole and fix bleeder tube of approximate 9" length
with the vent hole.

Preparation of electrolyte :

(a) Take concentrated Sulphuric acid (laboratory

reagent - 1.800 specific gravity) and one litre
distilled water for preparing electrolyte.

(b) Add concentrated Sulphuric acid in distilled

water and stir well, till the specific gravity
reaches to 1.230 for Exide & 1.270 for Amco
battery. (c) Allow the electrolyte to cool to room
temperature (i.e.27°C). Again check.

(d) To correct specific gravity do as follows:

- Add distilled water, if the specific gravity is found

more than 1.230.

- Add sulphuric acid, if the specific gravity is found

less than 1.230

Fig. 24
Battery

Caution :

Never add distilled water to concentrated
Sulphuric acid. This can result in an
explosion. Use apron and rubber hand gloves
all times.

Filling of electrolyte:

(a) Remove the vent plug.
(b) Fill-up the battery with the electrolyte of

r e c o m m e n d e d s p e c i f i c gr a v i t y u p t o
maximum/upper level.

(c) Allow the battery to rest for approximate one

hour for electrolyte to penetrate into the plates
and separators.

(d) Top up each cell to maximum/upper level with

electrolyte in case there is a drop in level due to
soaking.

(e) Wash the top of the battery with tap water after

the vent plugs are tightened in their position.

22

Fig. 25

Checking by Hydrometer

(f) Apply petroleum jelly on the terminals/cable

clamps to avoid corrosion.

Initial Charging:

(a) Remove the vent plugs.
(b) Connect battery in parallel to charger, i.e., the

+ve terminal of charger connected to the +ve
terminal of battery and -ve terminal of charger
connected to -ve terminal of battery.

(c) For more than one battery to be charged,

batteries should be connected in series.

(d) Select proper voltage and current (0.9 A). (e)

Continue charging at this recommended rate for
10-15 hours till the cells are gassing freely and
the voltage remains same for 3 hourly readings
at the top of-charge-voltage, i.e., 15.9 to 16.9
volt.

(f) On completion of charging, check the final

specific gravity and level of electrolyte in each
cell.

(g) Adju st leve l of speci fic gra vity to th e

recommended specified gravity by adjusting the
electrolyte with:

- Distilled water in case the specific gravity is

higher.

- Dilute sulphuric acid of 1.400 specific gravity in

case the specific gravity is lower.

This operation should be done with the battery on
charge to allow for proper mixing. Re-fit vent plugs,
wash the top of battery with tap water and apply
petroleum jelly on the terminals/cables clamps
before installing the battery on the scooter.

Caution:

When more than one battery is to be charged, the

batteries must be connected to each other in

series, in order to ensure that same charging

current can flow through each battery. While the

charging is in process, if the temperature of

electrolyte exceeds 50° C, stop charging to allow

the battery to cool. Always keep the charger 'OFF'

before connecting or removing the charger lead.

Never use a charger without reading instructions.

Batteries expel explosive gases, keep naked flame

away.

Removal of battery :

(a) Turn the ignition key to “OFF” position.
(b) Remove the left hand cowl.
(c) Remove the screw securing earth cable (Black)

connected to the negative of the battery terminal
by using the correct screw driver.

(d) Remove the Red cable from the positive terminal

of the battery.
(e) Remove the battery and bleeder tube.
(f) Detach the fastener belt and take out the battery.

Precaution:

Keep the battery and bleeder tube away from the

scooter to avoid any damage to the painted

surface due to leakage or slipage of electrolyte.

Fig. 26

Battery

23

Installation of battery :

(a) Clean the battery box. (b) Clean the battery
thoroughly from outside. (c) Put the battery on the
battery box. (d) Connect the fastener belt first to the
lower hook. (e) Hold the battery firmly with one hand.
(f) Stretch the belt and fasten it to the upper hook
(Fig.27). (g) Fix the battery bleeder tube and ensure
it is routed properly through its clamp. (h) Connect
(+ve) terminal first, then the (-ve) terminal. (i) Make
sure the battery cable does not touch any metallic
surface during fitment. (j) Apply petroleum jelly
around the terminals to prevent corrosion.

Caution:

Always ensure that the bleeder tube is not

clogged, crimped or bent. The tube should be of

proper length i.e. 9". Replace the bleeder tube in

case it is clogged or not of correct length.

Storage of battery while not in use.
(a) Keep the battery fully charged. (b) Maintain the
electrolyte level at maximum/ “upper level”. (c) Take
battery out of the vehicle and store in a cool dry
place and at constant temperature. (d) Keep the
battery away from rain, dew, high moisture and direct
sun light. The battery should be charged once in a
month, when the vehicle is not in use. (e) For initial
charging the battery must be charged atleast for 10­15 hours.

Testing Procedure

(a) Remove the battery as explained above.
(b)Connect the battery on load tester ensuring Red
lead of tester to (+ve) and black lead to (-ve)
terminal of battery.(c) Check the terminal voltage of
battery. (d) It should be 12 - 14.5 volts. (e) Press the
push button on the tester and watch the voltmeter
reading on load. (f) If the battery voltage does not
drop below 9 volts, this indicates that the battery can
take the load of self starter motor.(g) Check the
specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. (h) The
specific gravity of each cell should not be less than

1.230. (i) Put the battery on charge, if required and
carry out load test. (j) Diagnose the nature of failure
as under:

24

Fig. 27

Installation of Battery

Cell Dead : If on load the battery voltage is found
less than 9.5 volt and one or more cell show specific
gravity less than 1.230.
Cell boiling : Battery voltage on no load may be in
between 12 - 9.5 volt. On load it will be around 4
volts and one or more cell start gasing (similar to
boiling action).
Open circuit : During charging battery does not
pick-up the charge.
In any of the above case, replace the battery.

Caution:

During inspection, if the battery is found defective,

before placing a new battery, checking of the

charger circuit of scooter is a must.

Fig. 28

Checking of Battery

P.R.D. (Preventive Restarting Device) :

This is an electronic cut off switch, which connects
the circuit of cut-out relay while starting and cuts off
after starting the engine. Thus engine can’t be
cranked in the running condition. It guards the teeth
of starter motor and flywheel (Carona gear) from
damage.

The P.R.D. relay can be checked as follows:
(a) Connect the P.R.D., bulb (12V-10W), battery

(12V), push switch, ON/OFF switch and 12 volt

A.C. supply as shown in fig.30
(b) Switch 'OFF' the ON/OFF switch and press the

push switch. The bulb should glow.
(c) Switch 'ON' the ON/OFF switch and again press

the push switch. The bulb should not glow.

Fig. 29

PRD

Cut-out relay :
(a) Connect the cut-out relay as shown in fig.32 and

press the button.
(b) Relay should operate with click noise and light

should glow.
(c) If no noise is observed the relay is open

circuited.
(d) If it fails to crank starter even after clicking, the

contacts are dirty/pitted. Clean with fine emery

paper and refit.

Fig. 31

Fig. 30

Circuit Diagram -PRD Relay

Fig. 32

Circuit Diagram - Cut Out Relay

25

STARTER MOTOR

Main features:

Rated voltage 12V
Rated output 0.35 KW
Direction of Rotation Left hand (A n t i cl o ck

wise)
Type of motor DC series motor
Meshing By pinion and crown

gear on fly wheel
No load current 30 Amp.
On load current 60 Amp.
Jammed starter 200 Amp.

Removal & re-fitting of starter motor :

(a) Remove the RH cowl and rear wheel.

(b) Remove the rear shock absorber bottom

mounting bolt and take the shock absorber away
from crank case shocker mounting.

Fig. 33

(c) Remove fan cover by un-screwing the five screws

(Fig.34).

(d) Pull back the insulating cap and remove the nut

and washer from the starter motor lead terminal.

(e) Disconnect the blue lead from the terminal.

Remove the three nuts 'A' holding the motor 'C'
and take out washers. (Fig.35).

(g) Un-screw the bolt 'B' from the lower bracket

holding the motor.

(h) Remove the motor from the engine.

(i) Follow the reverse procedure for re-fitting.

Fig. 34

Fig. 35

26

STARTER MOTOR - EXPLODED VIEW

Fig. 36

27

LIGHT SWITCHES

Main Switch :

(a) Disconnect the plug-sockets connection from

wiring harness and head lamp bulb holder.

(b) Check for continuity test with multimeter for each

operation.

(c) If the continuity shows perfect then the switch is

good.

(d) In case continuity does not show then the fault

may be attended by giving proper connections.

(e) If still the continuity does not show then

complete switch is to be replaced.

Blinker Switch :
(a) The blinker switch is located on the right hand

side of handle bar.

(b) By disconnecting the connection of switch

contacts; the switch circuit can be checked for its
continuity by multimeter.

Note:

Fig. 37

Auto start push button switch is extra fitted at the
bottom side of Blinker switch.

Engine Kill Switch :

The kill switch is located on the right hand side of
handle bar.
Check : It can be checked for continuity by
connecting with multimeter and pressing the push
button.

Brake light switch:

(a) Rear brake light switch is fitted on the support

bracket of rear brake pedal.

(b) One switch also fitted on front brake cable; which

functions on operating the front brake lever.

Fig. 38

Fig. 39

28

AIR - FUEL SYSTEM

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

AIR - FUEL - FLOW DIAGRAM 30

CARBURETTOR 31

Specification 31

Removal 32

Dismantling, overhauling and Re-assembly 33

Installation on scooter 36

Carburettor tuning 36

Reed valve 37

AIR CLEANER, AIR FILTER & FUEL FILTER 38

'AOM' (AUTOMATIC OIL MIXER) DEVICE 39

Dismantling overhauling & Re-assembly 41

Removal and fitment of oil tank 44

29

AIR-FUEL SYSTEM

Air-fuel flow diagram:

(a) Petrol is supplied from the fuel tank to

carburettor inlet by gravity feed, controlled by a
fuel cock.

(b) A fuel filter is provided in between for trapping

any sediments in the fuel before atomisation of
fuel in carburettor.

(c) Air cleaner directly connected on carburettor air

inlet side, supplies clean air through cleaning
process, by nylon netted cleaner, fitted in the air
cleaner.

The fuel is atomised and mixed with clean air in the
carburettor in proportionate quantities and supplied to
the engine which is connected directly to crank case.
The fuel gases are controlled with rotary distribution by
crank web in the engine. The supply through 5 transfer
ports to the combustion chamber is made through reed
valve.

30

Fig.40

Air Fuel System

CARBURETTOR
Specifications:

Make Spaco
Model/Type 20/20D, Down draft
Slow running jet 40/130
Starter jet 60
Air metering jet 140
Defuser E-3
Main Jet 92
Slide 7.5 x 7.5 SCOOP
Mix.screw setting Spaco ½ to 1½

1. Float needle

2. Float

3. Air metering jet

4. Defuser

5. Main jet

6. Slow running jet

Fig.41 - Circuit Diagram of Carburettor

7. Mixture adjusting screw

8. Idling screw

9. Throttle slide

10. Starter jet

11. Choke device

31

Carburettor :
The carburettor is the heart of the scooter. It's
function is to provide the correct air fuel mixure, in an
atomised state to the engine. It also controls the
speed of the engine.

Removal of carburettor:

(a) Remove right hand side cowl and take out the air

cleaner box cover by un-screwing two screws.

(b) Remove air cleaner by unscrewing two

screws.

(c) Un-hook choke cable and throttle cable from

carburettor.

(d) Turn fuel cock to ‘OFF’ position.

(e) Take out clip and pull out fuel pipe from banjo

pipe.

(f) Slacken and remove two sleaved nut by box

spanner and take out the carburettor assembly
and packing.

Fig. 42-Step 1

Fig. 43-Step 2

32

Fig. 44-Step 3

Fig. 45-Step 4

Dismantling, overhauling, re-assembly :

(a) Remove inlet nylon filter cover by a

suitable open end spanner or screw
driver and take out the filter and clean it.

(b) If there is any evidence of dust or water

contamination, clean the fuel tank.

(c) Slacken two screws retaining float cup

cover and remove it.

(d) Please ensure that the gasket is not

damaged.

(e) Push the float pivot pin by a small screw

driver and take out the float and needle.

(f) Take out the throttle slide by unscrewing

two retaining screws on the side of
carburettor.

(g) Remove the choke unit by slackning the

retaining screw.

(h) Remove adjusting screw and slow

running adjusting screw alongwith
spring.

(i) Remove slow running jet, main jet

assembly and starter jet from the
housing with the help of screw driver.

Fig. 46-Step 1

Fig. 47-Step 2

Fig. 48-Step 3 Fig. 49-Step 4

Fig .50-Step 5 Fig. 51-Step 6

33

(j) Separate main jet, defuser (Automiser) and air

gauge by pulling as these are press fitted to each
other.

Care to be taken :

After dismantling all parts of carburettor place them in
two different cleaning trays.

(1) Place all the jets, Float needle valve, float pin,

float, slide, idling speed screw and mixture screw
with spring in tray filled with 100ml of kerosene.

(2) Place all castings and other parts into tray filled

with 200 ml. kerosene. Discard all gaskets.

Cleaning :

Clean each part thoroughly with the brush in each tray.

(a) Insert one hair of the paint brush and insert into all

the holes of the main jet, slow running jet and
starting jet.

(b) Blow compressed air into all the holes of castings

and all jets so as to remove any remaining dust
particles from it.

Slow Running Jet - Fig.52 - Main Jet

Fig. 53-Mixture Screw

(c) Air filter and fuel filters should be washed

thoroughly in kerosene and blow dry.

(d) Inspect the float for any puncture and jets for any

deformation.

(e) Clean all the jets and its parts in clean petrol and

blow out by compressed air.

(f) Check the needle for any worn out mark on it's

conical seat. If found, replace with new needle.

Fig. 54-Main Jet Assembly

Fig. 55-Air Jet

34

Checks :
Check throttle slide: It should move freely and

should not have any sign of wear, which may lead to
improper idling adjustment. If the problem cannot be
rectified by replacing the throttle slide, then change
the carburettor body/ complete carburettor assembly.

Check choke piston : for any wear and leakage of
gasket. Replace, if necessary.

Check jets : Inspect the holes of jets with a
magnifying glass. If any hole is found enlarged,
replace the jets as per table given on page no. 31.

Float needle valve :
(a) Inspect the conical rubber tip of the valve with a

magnifying glass.

(b) If the surface of conical part is found worn out and

is not perfect, then replace the valve.

Float : Hold the float exposed to SUN light or any
brighter light of powerful bulb. If petrol is found inside
the float, replace it.

Fig. 56-Check throttle slide

Float pin :
(a) Check for any bend, wear, loosness and over

tightness.

(b) Insert the pin in float hole and check for free

movement.

(c) If any above problem is there, replace both the

float and pin.

Re-assembly of carburettor : Follow the reverse
procedure of dismantling.

Caution :

(1) Never over tighten the jets as it will lead to
deformation of the orifice. (2) Never over tighten float
cup cover screw and benjo bolt. This may damage
the threads of carburettor body and may require
replacement. (3) Always use jets, slide and air
diffuser as per specifications. (4) Never clean the jets
by steel wire, which may enlarge its size and will
affect the fuel consumption of scooter.

Fig. 57-Check choke piston

Fig. 58

35

Installation on Scooter :

(a) Place a new base gasket on the mounting face

of engine.

(b) Open the mixture screw anticlockwise to 1½

turn for both and make of carburettors.

(c) Place the carburettor on the gasket inside the

housing and gently tighten the bolts.

(d) Finally torque down the bolts to specified torque

values (1.6 - 2 kgm) Bolts are tightened
alternatively and progressively.

Carburettor tuning:

(a) Start the engine and warm up for 5 minutes.

(b) Close the mixture screw until lightly seated.

(c) Now open mixture screw by 1 turn with a screw

driver.

(d) Start the engine and keep idle screw in such a

position that engine should not stop.

Fig. 59

(e) Observe the change in r.p.m. by turning mixture

screw by 1/4 turn either clockwise or anticlowise.

(f) Engine r.p.m. gets increased at one stage.

(g) Hold the mixture screw and reduce the engine

r.p.m. between 1000-1300 by idling screw
adjustment.

(h) Observe any misfiring of a lean mixture at higher

r.p.m. by accelerating engine to full throttle and
gradually deaccelerating throttle.

(i) If problem is noticed then open mixture screw

slowly.

Fig. 60

36

Fig. 61

Reed valve :

Reed valve assy. is a long life component and does
not require regular service. In case of overhauling,
ensure that the gasket between reed valve and the
air cleaner box is intact, as well as the gasket
between crankcase and reed valve. Under no

circumstances should the reed valve or its
stopper plate screw be disturbed. In order to

separate the crankcase halves, or to replace the
crankcase, the Reed Valve has to be removed and
reinstalled.

Removal :

1. Remove the air cleaner cover, air cleaner,
carburettor and air cleaner box from the
engine.

2. Remove the gasket between reed valve and
the air cleaner box.

3. Remove the Reed Valve by unscrewing two
screws and curved washers which secure
the reed valve to the crankcase (fig. 63).

Fig. 62

Fig. 63

4. Remove the gasket between crankcase and
the reed valve

Installation :

1. Clean the area on the crankcase where the
Reed Valve will sit.

2. Apply a thin layer of RTV Silicon sealent
on both sides of a new gasket, put it on the
crankcase face, and place the Reed Valve
in its position.

3. Replace and tighten the two screws and
curved washers to secure the Reed valve.

4. Again apply a thin layer of sealent to a
new gasket, and place it in its position on
the surface of Reed valve.

5. Replace the air cleaner box, carburettor, air
cleaner and air cleaner cover.

6. Start the vehicle and check the performance.

Fig. 64

Caution :

1. Parts should be clean and free from dust,
grease or oil before application of sealent.

2. Ensure that only thin layer of sealent to be
used and it should not spill out in the
cavity of reed valve.

3. Under no circumstances any resetting or
adjustment of any sort is to be carried out on
reed valve stopper plate or its two no, screws
which are locked with application of 'Loctite'.

37

Air cleaner:

(a) Take out air cleaner 'A' by unscrewing two

screws 'B'. (fig.65).
(b) Blow dry with compressed air.
(c) Clean the air filter throughly with Kerosene in a

clean tray.

A

B

Air filter :

Air filter is fitted over air intake hole on the chassis
below the dual seat. Cleaning is required during
each periodical service. Cleaning of airfilter is
frequently required if the scooter riding is done in
dusty areas.

Procedure for cleaning:

l Lift the seat and take out the air filter by

unscrewing it from the support plate.

l Rinse the filter in kerosene or petrol only till it is

fully cleaned.

l Blow dry the filter with low air pressure.
l Refit the filter ensuring proper positioning of its

gasket.

Fig. 66

Fig. 65

Fig. 67

38

'AOM'' (AUTOMATIC OIL MIXER) DEVICE

Description:

Stella scooters are fitted with Automatic Oil Mixer
device for lubrication of engine. A separate oil tank
No.2 for Two stroke oil has been provided in scooter
fitted with ''AOM'' device and the existing fuel tank
No.1 is used only for filling pure petrol. The ''AOM''
device is fitted inside the air cleaner box and
connected with throttle control for its operation.
The oil is supplied to the engine through its ventury
tube in exact quantity with correct ratio by a piston
pump ‘P’. Pump is controlled by gear transmission,
which is attached with crank shaft as shown in fig.69.
The carburettor receives petrol through a normal
gravity feed system.
The oil tank No.2 is fitted with a transparent cup No.3
for checking oil level, (fig.69), positioned near the fuel
cock lever.
When the oil level is low then top up Two stroke oil
immediately to avoid air bubbles and maintenance
work.

Note:

Ensure that the oil inlet pipe 'T' from tank to 'AOM' is
completely full. If air bubbles are present then take
out the pipe 'T' from 'AOM' side and bleed the air so
that the bubbles are completely eliminated.
Reconnect the pipe. (fig.70)

Fig. 68

Fig. 69

1. Petrol tank cap, 2. Oil tank cap, 3. Sight glass level of oil, 4. Fixed case of ''AOM'' device,

5. Oil inlet pipe, 6. Oil supply pipe, 7. Oil supply valve A. Suction period, B. Delivery period.

39

Advantages:

(a) The automatic oil mixer device is designed to

ensure the perfect lubrication of two stroke engine

at various speeds and load conditions.

(b) With ''AOM'' device, the oil quantity varies with

respect to engine r.p.m. This reduces the carbon

deposits at spark plug, cylinder piston unit and

silencer neck. It will ultimately reduce the

expenditure on decarbonising of these items.

(c) The chances of filling incorrect quantity, type and

substandard quality of oil are completely

eliminated by using an 'AOM' device.

Functions:(How the device works)

The complete '‘AOM'’ device system is shown in
fig. 69

(a) Tank No.1 is filled with pure petrol, which is

directly connected to the carburettor by a

connecting fuel pipe and supplies petrol through

a normal gravity feed system.

(b) The oil tank No.2 is filled with 2-T motor oil and is

connected by a separate oil tube No.5

(c) The oil is sucked by a piston pump ‘P’.

(d) Running of pump is guided by the radial position of

a sliding block, on the inclined plane of piston itself

and controlled by the throttle cable linked by a

lever.

M

Fig. 70

(e) By each position of throttle twist grip, the sliding

block comes to specific positions of opening gap
due to the piston run (suction period ‘A’ and
delivery period ‘B’). Therefore the quantity of
sucked oil changes according to the throttle
opening and engine r.p.m.

Note:

The oil pipe should remain without oil during the
dismantling, overhauling and reassembly of
''AOM'' device. On completion of above process,
the pipe has to be filled progressively with oil, it is
advisable to fill up the fuel tank (No.1) with 3 Ltr. of
mixture of petrol and 2% Two stroke oil. After this,
next refuelling of fuel tank should be carried out
with pure petrol only.

40

DISMANTLING, OVERHAULING & RE-ASSEMBLY

Dismantling:

(a) In order to overhaul the ‘'AOM'’ device for its

proper functioning, dismantle the device from

engine.
(b) Close the fuel cock and burn out fuel (by running

engine) in pipeline 'A' and of carburettor.

Disconnect oil inlet pipe 'B' from carburettor

side.( fig.71)

(d) Remove oil tube 'M' with nozzle from oil pump

cover. (see fig. 73)

Fig. 73

(f) Take out the metering cover assy. by

unscrewing the 3 screws.(fig.74)

Fig. 71

(c) Remove the air cleaner box cover, air cleaner

and carburettor assy. by disconnecting throttle

'A' and choke control 'B' cables and fuel pipe.

(fig.72)

Fig. 72

Fig. 74

(g) Take out piston pump gear alongwith

connected parts (washer and spring) fig.75

Fig. 75

41

(h) Remove clutch cover and take out clutch unit.

(i) Remove woodruff key from Crank shaft and take

out drive gear from crank shaft.

(j) Remove read valve & small drive shaft.

(k) Take out the metering device shaft by unlocking

the circlip lock.

(l) Tap the driver gear slowly. Now take out the

driven gear along with washers.

Fig. 76 : A.- Remove clutch unit

B.- Remove drive gear from crank shaft

D.- Unlock the circlip and take out with washer

E.- Remove driven gear

C.- Take out metering device shaft

42

F.- Take out plain washer

Overhauling:

Inspection:

(a) Cl ean and wash t he disman t led p arts

thoroughly and blow dry.

(b) Check all parts for any wear or damages.

(c) Replace with new parts, if required.

Re-assembly:

Re-assemble the 'AOM' device in reverse order of
dismantling.

Fig. 77 : A.- Place the plain washer

B.- Fit the driven gear

D- Fit the metering device shaft

E.- Fit the drive gear and woodruff key

C.- Place plain washer and lock with circlip

F.- Assemble the clutch unit and cover

43

Removal and fitment of oil tank:

(a) LML Scooters are equipped with two separate

tanks: No.1 for petrol and No.2 for oil.(fig.78).

(b) Disconnect fuel level indicator cables from petrol

tank top.Remove packing for fuel cock rod from
frame. Unscrew mtg. bolts and remove them
alongwith spring washer

(c) The oil tank No.2 will come out alongwith petrol

tank No.1. It is fitted to the bottom end of tube
with ring nut. The oil level gauge is directly fitted
with the oil tank. (see fig.79)

(d) Remove the oil tank cap No.2.(see fig.80)

(e) Introduce T handle box spanner (17mm size)

through the tube in order to remove the nut
connecting the oil tank to the outlet pipe.

(f) Unlock ring 'B', and separate oil tank from petrol

tank.

(g) For reassembly follow the reverse order of

dismantling.

Note:

While refitting the oil tank, ensure that the oil outlet
pipe position is in the same direction that of oil
gauge cup.

Fig. 78-Location of petrol tank & oil tank caps

Fig.79
Schematic diagram showing the positioning of
various components of Oil tank assembly.

44

Fig.80
Schematic diagram showing the correct position of oil
outlet pipe

CARE AND MAINTENANCE

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

SERVICE RULES 46

PERIODICAL MAINTENANCE 47

GEAR BOX OIL 48

SPARK PLUG 49

DE-COKE ENGINE 52

HEAD LIGHT SETTING 52

HORN TUNING 53

BATTERY 53

CONTROL CABLES ADJUSTMENT 54

BRAKE SERVICE (REAR AND FRONT) 55

FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION 61

TYRE ROTATION 61

STEERING COLUMN 62

LUBRICATION 62

RECOMMENDED OILS, LUBRICANTS & LUBRICATING POINTS 63

45

SERVICE RULES :

1. Use only genuine spares and recommended lubricants at specified parts and points.

2. Use right / proper ( general and special ) tools at right place.

3. Use only Metric nuts and bolts (MKS system).

4. Usage of incorrect tools and hardwares may damage parts of scooter.

5. Install new gaskets, 'O' rings, oil seals, clips, split pins and so on, while reassembling.

6. Clean parts before measurement and get rid of oil, if any. Lubricate working parts lightly by oil while

assembling.

7. When engine and transmission components are dismantled and kept for a longer period, coat the mating

surface with a lubricant to prevent rusting and cover them, to avoid dust.

8. After reassembling, check all nuts & bolts for proper tightening by torque wrench, check free operation

and also movement of the moving components.

9. Control cables and wiring harnesses are to be routed properly. Always keep the cables away from sharp

edges and corners where they may get cut by coming between the moving parts.

10. Loose cables or wiring harness may be unsafe. Ensure proper clamping of each cable and harness in

their respective positions.

11. Protect the wires and harness with proper sleeve and insulation. Check and clean the surface of wire

before applying insulation tape.

12. Keep away wires and harness from exhaust tube and other hot spots.

13. Wiring harness routed through the handle bar and steering column chassis portion should not be pulled

tight. It should have sufficient slackness to avoid damages to wires/harness during steering movement.

46

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE

In order to optimize

Code of suggested action is :

C - Check L - Lubricate. I - Inspect, check and adjust.
T - Check and top up, if necessary. F - Drain & refill with fresh oil. D - Carry out.

S. No. ITEM 2500 5000

1. Washing and cleaning D

2. Gear oil F

3. Tightening of all external nuts & bolts (also cylinder head) D D

4. Spark plug I

5. Air cleaner (clean & washing in fuel oil-mixture) D

6. Air filter (outer)* washing in kerosene or petrol only D

7. Carburettor tuning I

8. Carburettor cleaning D

9. De-coke of Engine and Silencer neck D

10. Ignition timing C

11. Functioning of electrical electronic systems C

12. Battery (T op up, check S p. gravity and bleeder tube) D D

Stella's

Miles Miles

13. Control cable adjustment I I

14. Brake service: Disc brake fluid**/ Brake shoes, Pads wear/ Brake system I I

15. Clutch C

16. Front and Rear suspension C

17. Tyre rot ation D

18 Lubricate:

Gear control assembly L L

Speedo drive gear L

Front wheel bearing L

Steering column bearing L

Caution :

and longer life of engine. Replace the filter af ter 6250 miles or earlier, if required.

** -

47

Washing and Cleaning :

(a) Frequent and thorough cleaning of scooter will

further enhance its appearance and extend its
life.

(b) The scooter should be cleaned at ambient

temperature i.e., not immediately after use or
when parked in hot sun.

(c) Use a low pressure water hose for cleaning the

vehicle.
(d) Wipe, clean and dry with soft cloth.
(e) Do not use detergents or powders which are

likely to leave scratches on the surface. They

may also cause fading of colour.
(f) Always use a normal car polish and rub with a

soft cloth.

Gear box oil

Checking oil level:

(a) Park the vehicle on a levelled surface.
(b) Remove the right hand side cowl.
(c) To check the oil level, unscrew plug(1) shown in

(fig.81). Oil should be at level with the bottomost

portion of the hole.
(d) Top up the oil to the specified level, if it is less.
(e) Screw back the plug. After replacing the

packing.

Fig. 81-Oil level Plug (1) & Drain Plug (2)

Fig. 82-Location of engine oil filling point

Change of gear box oil:

(a) Gear box oil should be changed after every

2500 miles run.
(b) Draining: Remove drain plug (2) as shown in

(fig.81) after warming up of the engine.
(c) Drain the oil completely.
(d) Replace the plug.
(e) Flushing: Fill 100 ml. fresh oil; start engine and

run for 5 minutes. Drain out the oil.
(f) Refilling: Fill the oil 20w - 40 multigrade Qty.

250 +0/ -5 ml. through filling hole (1) to the level

(see fig.83)
(g) Wipe off any excess oil which may have been

spilled.
(h) Refit the cowl.

Note:

To avoid leakage of oil from gear box, all the
packings of bolt & filling holes must be replaced.

Fig. 83-Filling of engine oil

48

Engine compression pressure:

Check compression pressure of engine with a
compression pressure gauge.(fig.84)

Compression pressure : 140 + 20 P.S.I.

(a) Close the fuel cock and burn out complete fuel in
the line and carburettor. (b) Remove the spark plug.
(c) Fit the compression pressure gauge in the place
of spark plug. (d) Keep the throttle valve open and
kick the pedal 3-4 times successively. (e) See the
dial gauge for the built in pressure. It should be
equivalent to the recommended pressure. (f) If the

Fig. 84-Checking the compression pressure
pressure is more than recommended, it means the
exhaust port or silencer are clogged with carbon.
Inspect and decarbonise. (g) If the pressure is less
than recomended, it means that there is a leakage
from cylinder piston or piston rings are worn out. (h)
Action to be taken accordingly.

Tightening of cylinder head: (a) Check all four
nuts for tightness. (b) If required, tighten the
nuts diagonally with a torque wrench up to the
specified torque value ranging from 1.3 to 1.8 kgm

Fig. 85-Sequence for tightening cylinder head bolts

(fig. 85).

1 3

24

Spark plug:

(a) Remove the right hand side cowl.(b) Disconnect
the HT lead cable after removing rubber cap from
spark plug.(c) Wipe and clean the area around the
spark plug base and unscrew the spark plug. (d)
Clean out any excessive carbon deposits.(e) Visually
inspect the spark plug electrodes for any wear. (f)
The centre electrode should have square edges and
the side electrode should not be eroded. (g) Discard
the spark plug if there is an apparent wear, & if the
insulator is cracked/chipped.(h) Check the spark
plug gap between the electrodes with the help of
feeler gauge. (i) This gap should be between 0.7 to

0.8 mm (fig.86).(j) Resetting of the gap shall be
done only by carefully bending the side electrode
(fig.87). (k) Ensure that the plug washer is in a good
condition. (l) Refit the spark plug alongwith
washer.(m) First few threads should be tightened
only with the hands in order to prevent cross
threading.

Fig. 86-Checking the spark plug gap

Fig. 87-Resetting the spark plug gap

49

Condition of spark plug :

The Condition of spark plug is an indicator of the
performance of the engine. Needful corrective action
can be taken as per the following:

1. Normal condition : If the insulation tip is greyish­light brown, it indicates,(fig.88)

- correct running of engine.

- Plug is perfectly suited for optimum
engine performance.

2. Fouled with soot : Dull black, velvety carbon
deposits on plug face indicates, (fig.89)

- Fuel air mixture is too rich

- Spark plug gap is more

- Cold plug

- Air cleaner clogged

- Weak compression

- Weak spark

- Low speed

Corrective action : Check and correct the defect or

fit a plug of higher heat range as an interim step.

Fig. 88-Spark plug in normal condition

Fig. 89-Spark plug fouled with soot

3. Fouled with oil : Shining black 'wet' carbon
deposits on spark plug indicates, (fig.90)

- Too much oil in the fuel mixture

Corrective action : Check and correct the defect or
fit a plug of higher heat range as an interim step.

4. Over heated : Metal particles on insulator tip,
eroded electrodes, insulator burnt white or with
pearly deposits of metallic enamel beads indicates,
(fig.91)

- O v e r h e a t i n g o r t o o l e a n
mixture.

- Lo ose spar k plug or w rongly
screwed.

- The Plug is too hot.

Corrective action : Rectify the defects or fit a plug
with a lower heat range as an interim step.
(a) Tighten the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn with box spanner
after seating it fully.
(b) In case of new spark plug tighten the plug 1 turn
with box spanner to compress the washer.
(c) Tightening torque is 2.0 kgm.

Fig. 90-Spark plug fouled with oil

Fig. 91-Over heated spark plug

Important:

Do not over tighten or cross thread the spark plug.
This avoids damage to the threads of aluminium
cylinder head.
Do not allow any foreign particles to enter the
engine through the spark plug hole, while the plug
is being removed. Ensure the hole is coverd
properly when the plug is removed. Use only
recommended spark plug to ensure perfect engine
performance.

50

Spark plug cleaning and testing by machine:

Cleaning of Spark Plug :

(a) Scrape the carbon deposits before sand blasting
in order to protect the sand from contamination. (b)
Wash the insulator in petrol if it is oily and blow dry.
(c) Ensure that the air pressure in the machine is
more than 5kg/cm². (d) Turn the protective shield
and press the spark plug into the hole of rubber
adaptor. (e) Press the double action valve to the
“abrassive blast” position and sand blast for 15 to 20
Sec. (f) At the same time rotate the spark plug in a
complete circle for better cleaning.(g) Press the
double action valve to “air blast” position and blast
air for 10 to 15 sec. to remove any sand particles.(h)
Check the insulator of the plug for cleanliness.(i) If
still not found clean, repeat the cleaning cycle. Set a
min. of 0.7 mm electrode gap with the help of feeler
gauge.

Testing of Spark Plug :

(a) Screw the spark plug on the suitable adaptor in
the pressure pocket and tighten it.(b) Tighten the
blind plug with pressure bleed screw. (c) Clamp the
H.T. wire to spark plug and cover it with the guard.
(d) Set the indicator dial to align the arrow against
the required gap setting mark on the indicator dial.(e)
There are three ranges indicated on indicator dial,
Green - Good,Yellow - Fair, Red - Poor.(f) Open the
air screw and set the pressure so that the needle of
pressure gauge is in the “Green Range” of the
indicator dial during the setting of pressure. (g) The
pressure bleed screw can be used to reduce the
pressure if required.

plug is “Poor” and spark plug needs to be replaced.

If sparking does not occur at all, then this indicates a
cracked insulator inside the plug cell.

Note:

The sparking surfaces of the plug electrode should

be cleaned with emery paper to form smooth, flat

and clean surfaces prior to testing.

Fig. 92

Spark Plug Gap

(h) After ensuring that the needle of pressure gauge
is on the Green range of the indicator dial, press the
operating button on the top of the service unit
housing and observe the spark in the mirror. (i) If no
spark is observed, the pressure is slowly reduced by
means of a pressure bleed screw and every time the
electrical test is carried out.(j) If the spark appears in
the “Green” range then the spark plug is “good”. If
the spark appears in the “Yellow” range then the
spark plug is “Fair” and can be used for some time if
the spark appears in the “Red” range then the spark

Fig. 93

Spark Plug Testing Machine

51

De-coke of engine :

(a) Remove the cylinder head by acting four nuts (to

be opened diagonally).
(b) Remove the silencer.
(c) Scrap the carbon from the piston crown, cylinder

head and exhaust port, gently with the help of

blunt scraper.
(d) Make sure that, there is on scoring mark on piston

as aluminium alloy is a soft metal.

1 3

24

Fig. 94-Cylinder Head Nuts Removal

Note:

Open cylinder head for de-coke of head and piston
crown.

Head light setting :

(a) Place the unloaded vehicle on a levelled floor at a

distance of 10 metre from a twilight white screen

and ensure that the vehicle axis is perpendicular

to the screen.

(b) Draw a horizontal line 'b-b' at a height of 'B' from

the ground corresponding to 0.9xC (C= height

from the ground to headlight centre.)

(c) With the headlamp switched 'ON' the low beam

position, the horizontal line of demarcation

between the dark zone and the lighted one should

be on the horizontal line 'b-b'.

(d) If the demarcation line between the dark zone and

the lighted one is not on the horizontal line 'b-b'

then loosen the headlight setting screw located at

the bottom of handle bar's lower part and set it by

swinging the headlight.

(e) After obtaining the correct position, tighten the

headlight adjusting screw.

B = C x 0.9, C = Height from the ground to

headlight centre.

B = C x 0.95, when the setting of the headlamp is

carried out with the vehicle at 5 meters from the

screen.

Note :

The headlamp setting can be carried out also by the
driver sitting on the scooter. In this case, of course,
the beam alignment should be altered wherever
scooter is being driven by both driver and pillion
rider.

52

Fig. 95 Head Light Setting

Testing & tuning of horn
(a) Remove steering column cover. (b) Unscrew the
horn mounting screw and take it out. (c) Hold horn
bracket. (d) Start the scooter and check the intensity
of horn sound. (e) If it is found irregular,adjust the
screw by tightening or lossening the horn adjusting
screw which is located at backside of horn till a sharp
noise level is obtained. (f) By doing the above
exercise, if the horn is not found satisfactory replace
with a new one.(g) Mount the horn. Fit the steering
column cover.

Battery :

Fig. 96-Testing & Tuning of horn

Specification

Battery - 12V 9 AH

Specific gravity of electrolyte at 27° C.
Initial filling-in specific gravity - 1.230 (Exide)

(1.270 for Amco)

Final specific gravity (fully charged battery)

- 1.230 for Exide (1.270 for Amco)
Battery charger - Elak make (C1/48)
Battery tester - Elak make B C T - 7

Fig. 97-Battery

Hydrometer - Thimson - 108

Level of electrolyte:

(a) The level of electrolyte must always be in
between the upper and lower level marked on the
battery. (b) Normally, a constant level in the specified
range is maintained for about two months or
approximately 1250 miles. (fig. 98). (c) The level of
liquid should be checked once in a month. (d) In
case of a normal decrease (0.5cm), fill the distilled
water so as to reach the upper level indicated on the
battery.(e) In case of a marked level decrease by 1

Fig. 98-Hydrometer

cm or more, check the battery thoroughly and also
the specific gravity by using hydrometer.

Caution:

Battery should be removed, if the vehicle is to be
washed.
Use only 8 Amp fuse to prevent serious damage
to the battery. Ignition switch should be in 'OFF'
position while replacing fuse.

Fig. 99-Electrolyte level

53

Control cables adjustments:

Throttle adjustment:

(a) Loose the lock nut 'A'.

(b) Adjust the free play of 2 mm. at throttle twistgrip

by turning cable adjuster 'B' clockwise or
anticlockwise fitted on air cleaner box. (fig.100)

Clutch cable adjustment:

(a) Loosen the lock nut.

(b) Adjust the free play of 2 mm on Clutch control

lever by turning cable adjuster 'A' clockwise or
anticlockwise.

(c) Then tighten the lock nut. (fig.101)

Brake adjustment (Front and Rear):

(a) Loosen the lock nut.

(b) Adjust cable free play to 5 mm. for rear brake

(fig.102) by turning cable adjuster 'A' clockwise
or anticlockwise.

Fig. 100-Throttle adjustment

Note:

Wheel should rotate freely when the brake pedal is

in resting position.

Gear control cable adjustment:

(a) The gears are controlled by two control cables.

(b) Loosen lock nuts of gear control assembly. (c)

Adjust the play by turning the cable adjusting
screw clockwise or anticlockwise.

(d) Both cables are to be adjusted till required

setting is obtained.

Note:

Check shifter play, if found, then change gear
control assembly.

Fig.101-Gear control cable

54

Fig. 102-Lock nut A & Cable adjuster B

BRAKE SERVICE

Rear brake :

(a) Remove rear brake drum by unlocking the

nut and cap.

(b) Check brake shoes/liners for wear,

hardeness or oily surface.

(c) Clean the oily surface by washing in

kerosene and blow dry with compressed air.

(d) If the liners are worn out, replace with new

one.

(e) Check brake drum at liners contact surface.

(f) In case surface is found smooth then rub the

face with emery paper of 80/100 grade. (g) If
deep cuts are found on the surface, replace
with new one.

(h) Remove brake shoe by taking out locking

circlips.

(i) Remove brake flange by opening 3 screws. (j)

Remove shaft for brake lever and seal rings from
crank case.

(k) Replace new seal rings.

Wheel Cap - Fig.103 - Brake Drum

Fig. 104 Fig. 105

55

FRONT DISC BRAKE (HYDRAULIC)

Hydraulic brakes operate on the principle - that the
liquid is not compressible, so the force and motion
can be transmitted through a liquid media.

A. MASTER CYLINDER (WITH RESERVOIR) :

As the brake lever is pressed, the master cylinder
piston moves forward, as it crosses the inlet port the
piston starts pressurising the brake fluid in the
master cylinder. This pressurised brake fluid gets
transferred to the caliper through the brake hose.

As the brake lever is released, the piston return
spring forces the piston to return to its original
position. As the brake fluid from caliper returns
slowly, a negative pressure is being created between
the secondary and primary brake seals. This causes
the collapse of the primary brake seal, which in turns
allows brake fluid to flow to reservoir/master cylinder
through compensating port to counter the negative
pressure.

As the brake fluid returns from the caliper, the
excess amount of brake fluid drawn from reservoir

returns back through the inlet port.

AIR CAN BE COMPRESSED

Fig. 106

LIQUID CAN NOT BE COMPRESSED

Fig. 107

Fig. 108

56

1. Cap

2. Reservior

3. Master Cylinder Body

4. Dust Boot

5. Secondary Seal

6. Piston

7. Primary Seal

8. Return Spring

Fig. 109

B. CALIPER

The type of Disc brake caliper assembly used in Stella
Scooters is called "FIXED CALIPER - DOUBLE PISTON".
The disc brake caliper is mounted on front suspension
swinging arm with the help of caliper holder. When brakes
are applied the pressurised brake fluid flows from master
cylinder to Caliper cylinder and pushes out the pistons.
These pistons will force out the disc pads against the steel
disc. As the disc pads come in contact with the steel disc, a
resistance is offered for its further rotation. This movement
brings both the pads in tight contact with steel disc from both
the sides. This creats friction with the disc and speed is
reduced. Hence braking takes place.

After release of brake lever, the piston retracts due to the
elastic property of the caliper piston seal, and as wheel starts
to rotate, the disc hits both the disc pads, which places them
to their original position.

CALIPER

Fig. 110

1. Banjo Bolt 1a. Copper Washer 2. Caliper Body

3. Brake Fluid Gallery 4. Hanger Pin 5. Bleeder Nipple

6. Allen Bolt 7. Allen Bolt 8. Piston

9. Primary Seal 10. Secondary Seal 11. Brake Pad

12. Steel Disc

Fig. 111

Fig. 112

Fig. 113

57

Brake overhaul

General instructions :

1. Never handle brake fluid by bare hands for a longer time since it may result skin disease.

2. If brake fluid comes in contact with eyes, wash eyes with cold water and consult a doctor immediately.

3. Never allow brake fluid to come in contact with any painted parts as it peels off paint. If it happens, wipe

immediately with a damp cloth / wash with water.

4. Never clean any hydraulic brake parts with any mineral oil based cleaner i.e. kerosene, petrol, or diesel etc.

Always clean all the hydraulic brake parts only with fresh brake fluid.

5. Never lubricate any part of hydraulic brake system with mineral base oil or grease.

6. As the brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from atmosphere) by nature, it is better to replace the

brake fluid once in a year (after monsoon), for optimum performace.

7. Whenever any hydraulic brake components are disconnected, perform bleeding operation thoroughly at

reassembly.

8. Always use new washers & circlip also fresh brake fluid.

MASTER CYLINDER

REMOVAL : Before removal of master cylinder, remove cap & take out brake fluid by syrenge or syphon & follow

the following steps.

1. Disconnect front stop switch connection.

2. Remove front stop switch from Master cylinder body.

3. Remove front brake lever by unscrewing nut & screw.

4. Remove handle bar top cover by unscrewing 4 Nos. screws from bottom side.

5. Slip out rubber grommet from Master cylinder body.

6. Disconnect brake hose with the help of 10 mm open end spanner.

7. Remove master cylinder mounting bolts (2 Nos.) by 5 mm Allen Key.

INSTALLATION :

Assemble the master cylinder assy. in reverse order of removal sequence.

Note :

(i) After top up brake fluid remove air from hydraulic system (bleed) and ensure that brake should not be spongy.

(ii) Never top up brake fluid beyond maximum level of Master cylinder reservior.

(iii) Level of brake fluid in the Master cylinder must never be lower than the 'MIN" mark.

BRAKE HOSE
REMOVAL : Before removal of Brake Hose, remove cap & take out brake fluid by syrenge or syphon & follow the

following steps.

1. Remove handle bar top cover by unscrewing 4 Nos. screws from bottom side.

2. Slip out rubber grommet from Master cylinder body.

3.. Disconnect flexible Brake Hose with the help of 10 mm open end spanner from metal brake pipe.

4. Disconnect flexible Brake Hose from caliper assy. by removing banjo bolt with the help of 14 mm spanner.

5. Pull out the flexible Brake Hose from bottom side after removing it from the clamp mounted on mudguard.

58

INSTALLATION :

1. Remove steering column cover first by unscrewing screws.

2. Insert Brake Hose from bottom side through the wire clamp welded on mudguard inner side then pass

through the hole on top and fix it in clamp mounted on mudguard then rout it through chasis from the right
side of steering pipe, chasis terminal and handle bar lower part and handle bar cage.

3. Reconnect Brake Hose same in the reverse order of removal.

Note :

(i) Ensure that there is no bend or friction in the movement of Brake Hose and steering.

CALIPER ASSY.

REMOVAL:

1. Disconnect Brake Hose and collect brake fluid in a seprate pan.

2. Remove front wheel by opining 5 nuts and washers.

3. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out caliper assy.

INSTALLATION :

Follow reverse order of the removal.

NOTE:

(i) After toping up brake fluid bleed hydraulic system to take out air.
(ii) Ensure that while applying brake, operation should be hard.
(iii) Before remvoing brake caliper, first remove front brake lever then start the job.

Fig. 114

BRAKE PADS

REMOVAL:

1. Remove front wheel by opining 5 nuts and washers.

2. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out calpier assy.

(Do not disconnect Brake Hose).

3. Remove 'E' type circlip from pad hanger pin and pull out then take out

both the brake pads from caliper assy.

4. Inspect for any wear and tear on pads or glossy / burnt.

INSTALLATION :

Follow the reverse order or removal.

NOTE :

(i) Do not use sand paper for polishing the pads.
(ii) Do not use the brake pads after wear indicator limit.
(iii) Recommended thickness (Lining + Plate) STD 5.9 mm Service
Limit 3.6 mm.

STEEL DISC

REMOVAL :

1. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out calpier assy. (Do not disconnect Brake Hose).

Then Remove the plastic cap from hub and take out split pin with the help of plier, then remove metal cap from
nut.

2. Remove the nut from axle for hub mounting with the help of 22 mm box

spanner and take out the hub along with steel disc.

3. Unscrew 5 Nos. of Allen key bolts (4 mm) along with washer from steel disc which are mounted on hub.

Fig. 115

Fig. 116

59

INSTALLATION : Follow reverse order of the removal.

Note :

(i) Keep arrow mark on the disc (if marked on disc) towards the direction of wheel rotation.

(ii) Never use sand paper for polishing the disc as hard particles will scratch / damage the disc surface.

(iii) Check for run out of disc, if found beyond limit, replace the disc.

(iv) Recomended thickness of steel disc STD. 4 mm.

(v) Do not keep the steel disc side face of the wheel on the floor otherwise disc may get damaged or

scratched.

BLEEDING OPERATION

1. Fill the brake fluid reservoir, with fresh recommended brake fluid (DOT -4 Mobile Super Heavy Duty

brake fluid)) up to "UPPER LEVEL".

2. Operate the brake lever several times to build the hydraulic pressure in the brake system, keep a watch

on the brake fluid level in the reservoir.

3. Attach a transparent plastic tube (Poly vinayal) to the bleeder valve.

4. Hold the brake lever in applied position, and loosen the bleeder valve, along with brake fluid air bubbles

will come out through the tube. Tighten the bleeder valve and then release the brake lever. This sequence
ensures that no fresh air enters into the system.

5. Repeat the operation as per above step, till the clear flow of brake fluid comes out through the transparent

tube. In between, if required, fill the reservoir with brake fluid up to "MAX. LEVEL" eye glass again.

PRECAUTIONS

l Do not allow brake fluid to come in contact with eyes. In case of contact, flush throughly with water

and consult a doctor immediately.

l Do not let the brake fluid come in direct contact with hands for longer time. In case of contact, clean

hands properly with water.

l Avoid spilling of brake fluid on the vehicle as it damages painted, plastic & rubber components.

l Do not expose brake fluid directly to atmosphere as its characteristics detoriate by absorbing humidity

from the atmosphere.

60

Front and rear suspension :

(a) Check for the damping conditions of both shock

absorbers. If there are sudden jerks or only the

spring is working or oil is found leaking then

replace the shock absorber.

(b) Check the top buffers of front shock absorber, if

found worn out or compressed, replace with a

new one.

(c) Check mounting buffers of rear shock absorber,

if damaged or compressed, replace with new

one.

Tyre rotation :

(a) A l l th e th r e e wh ee l s of sco o t e r are

interchangeable with each other.

(b) However, the air pressure in the tyre will depend

on whether it is fitted on the front or rear

position.

(c) To ensure even wearing of tyre tread, it is

necessary to rotate the tyres and change the

face of the tyre (with respect to wheel rim) after

every 3750 miles.

(d) Follow the sequence for tyre rotation as

explained in fig.118

Fig. 117-Front Suspension

Fig.118-Tyre rotation

(3) Slot on Adj. Nut

(2) Screw for Lock

Fig. 119-Rear Suspension

61

Steering column:

Check steering column for tightness/looseness, if
found improper then proceed as follows:

(a) Remove handle bar top cover. Disconnect all

control cables and electrical connections.

(b) Unscrew handle bar bolt and lift the handle bar.

(c) Unscrew the upper ring nut 'D' and extract the
lock washer 'C'.

(d) Adjust the steering column by loosening or

tightening the bearing cone 'B'. (fig.120).

(e) For greasing of bearings, unscrew the bearing

cone 'B' and remove the ball cage 'A'.

(f) Apply the recommended grease on cage 'A'. and

replace it in its position.

(g) Screw the bearing cone 'B' by hand so as to

bring it in contact with the balls.
(h) Tighten it to locking torque of 5-6 kgm.
(i) Now rotate anticlock wise, the bearing cone 'B'

to 90º or ¼ turn approximately, then place the

lock washer 'C' and screw the ring nut 'D' with a

locking torque from 3 to 4 kgm. (Ref. Page

no. 85)

Note:

Fig. 120-Steering Column

The steering column should rotate free ly
without any play, under its own weight.

Lubrication

Gear control assy.:

(a) Remove gear control assembly cover.
(b) Wash the assembly gently with kerosene. (c)

Pressure wash and blow dry with compressed

air.
(d) Apply recommended grease and refix cover.

Front wheel bearing and speedo drive gear:

(a) Remove front wheel with hub .
(b) Apply recommended grease on front wheel

bearings and speedo drive gear.
(c) Refit front wheel.

Front brake caliper holding bracket assy.:

(a) Remove circlip lock.
(b) Unscrew bolts of shock absorber and take out

front brake caliper holding bracket assy.

(c) Clean the bearings and shaft, then apply

recommended grease.

(d) Refit the caliper holding bracket in its place and fit

the circlip.

Rear brake pedal and central stand:

(a) Clean rear brake pedal link area and central stand

hinge brackets with kerosene and then pressure

wash.
(b) Blow dry with compressed air.
(c) Lubricate brake pedal pin and central stand

brackets for smooth operations.

62

RECOMMENDED OILS AND LUBRICANTS

S.No. DESCRIPTION OF APPLICABLE RECOMMENDED BRAND OF LUBRICANTS

PARTS LUBRICANTS

1. Clutch lever Grease Automotive / Bearing Grease

2. Steering Column Bearing " "

3. Front Wheel Bearings " "

4. Speedo Drive Gear " "

5. Front Suspension '' ''

6. Control Cables '' ''

7. Gear Control assy. '' ''

8. Disc Brake Brake Fluid DOT 4, Mobil Super Heavy Duty

9. Gear Box* Oil SAE 30 Engine oil

Flushing of Gear Box Procedure for flushing-After the gear oil is drained
is must at initial 500 kms. off, fill 100 ml Engine Oil run the engine at idle

speed for few minutes and then drain the oil. Fill the
recommended quantity of fresh Engine oil.

9. Petrol oil mixture Oil Motorcycle - Formulated Two Stroke Oil

* - Recommended quantity of oil to be filled in gear Box is 250 ml + 0 ml.

-- 5 ml.

CHANGING OIL IN GEAR BOX:

First take out engine protection cover.
(a) Drain off the oil crank case by unscrewing the

drain plug '2' (fig.121).

(b) Introduce a small quantity of flushing oil, run the

engine for few minutes and drain off again.

(c) Refill gear box with about 250 ml. of new oil (up to

the level of filling hole by removing level plug '1')
(fig. 121).

(d) This operation of changing oil should be carried

out with warm engine.

Fig. 121

63

LUBRICATION POINTS

1

GREASE GREASE GREASE OIL

4

5

OIL

GREASE

OIL

6

646566

GREASEOILOILOIL

67

TOOL

Illustrated

on page

TOOL

Illustrated

on page

T-0021467 77
Bearing extractor with collet & spacer

T-0022480 78
Punch for expelling bearing from
crank case

T 0023589 87
Punch for oil seal and
main ball bearing

T 0023590 102
Tool for fitting windshield beading

F-0709756 (with attachments A,B & C) 92
Fixture for engine foundation buffers
& tube

68

T-0025095 75
Engine base plate stand

TOOL

Illustrated

on page

TOOL

Illustrated

on page

T-0025127 80
Wedge

T-0027338 89
Punch for assy. oil seal flywheel side

19.1.20095 76
Locking tool for flywheel

T-0031729 76
Wrench for securing clutch

T-0030627 76
Wrench for clutch nut

RS-00231 95
Tool for fuel cock

69

TOOL

T-0033971 87
Punch for fitting roller bearing of
drive shaft

Illustrated

on page

TOOL

F-3115576 80
Punch for assy. bearing cone on
crank shaft

Illustrated

on page

T-0038886 77
Tool for separating crank case and
expelling crankshaft

T-0048564 76
Flywheel extractor

19.1.20021 100
Fixture for overhauling front suspension
with attatchment

G-2107025 82
Feeler gauge for checking axial play
of gears

F-3720808 61
Hook spanner for Bitubo
Shock absorber

70

DISMANTLING, OVERHAULING, RE-ASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

ENGINE .............................................................................................................................72

NOTES .................................................................................................................................72

DISMOUNTING OF ENGINE .....................................................................................................................73

EXPLODED VIEW OF ENGINE.................................................................................................................74

DISMANTLING - Cylinder head & Cylinder .........................................................................................75

Piston assy. and Wrist pin........................................................................................75

Clutch assy...............................................................................................................76

Fly wheel Rotor, Back plate assy. ............................................................................76

Crank case halves separation,.................................................................................77

Crank shaft...............................................................................................................77

Crank case half-fly wheel side, ................................................................................77

Crank case half-clutch side,.....................................................................................78

Drive shaft assy........................................................................................................78

Cluster gear assy. ....................................................................................................78

OVERHAULING - Clutch unit ................................................................................................................79

Crank shaft...............................................................................................................79

Drive shaft assy........................................................................................................81

Selector spider & Gear Control rod..........................................................................81

Spring gear assy. .....................................................................................................82

ASSEMBLY CLEARANCES, TOLERANCES & LIMITS.............................................................................83

IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES.....................................................................................................85

CHECKS BEFORE RE-ASSEMBLY ..........................................................................................................86

ASSEMBLY - Crank case half flywheel side ..................................................................................87

Crank case half clutch side ......................................................................................87

(Bearings, circlips and oil seals)

Crank shaft & Drive shaft assy.................................................................................88

Crankcase halves coupling ......................................................................................89

Clutch assy...............................................................................................................89

Gear control box ......................................................................................................90

Flywheel magneto assy............................................................................................90

Piston, rings, cylinder, cyl.head................................................................................90

Air cleaner case, carburettor....................................................................................91

ENGINE FOUNDATION BUFFERS & TUBE .............................................................................................92

71

ENGINE

Notes on dismantling process:

(a) In this chapter, the directions for complete dismantling of scooter are given, through illustrations and with

the use of required special tools. Special tools which are used in different operational sequences are
shown along with their Part Nos. The general tools etc. are not described due to their simple operational
use but have been mentioned the same through the entire operational sequence.

(b) Avoid use of temporary or emergency tools. The parts should be preserved properly and separately to

avoid mix up with the other parts of engine.

(c) Small parts have not been described anywhere in the chapter or figures therefore to avoid confusion at the

time of re-assembly. It is advisable to keep washers, bolts, nuts etc. together with respective components.
For better performance of scooter, change lock washers and spring washers at each dismantling or
overhauling of engine.

(d) All packings/gaskets, oil seals, split pins and 'O' rings must be replaced with new one for each overhauling

of engine.

Parts must be wiped to absolute dry condition by clean and quality rags or be blow dried, if due to any reasons
the re-assembly is postponed then protect the components/parts from atmospheric factors viz oxidation,
rusting etc.

72

Removal of engine from the vehicle:

(a) Drain out gear box oil completely.

(b) Disconnect all electrical connections.

(c) Disconnect all control cables at engine side i.e.

gear cables, clutch cable, and rear brake cable.

(d) Choke cable and throttle / acceleration cable

from carburettor are to be removed after
removal of air cleaner cover and air cleaner.

(e) Close fuel tap then remove fuel pipe from

carburettor and take it out from air cleaner box
and disconnect oil pipe and plug the pipe hole.

(f) Unscrew the rear shock absorber mounting bolt

and nut and take it out.

(g) Separate shock absorber from engine mounting.

(h) Unscrew foundation bolt and nut. Take out the

bolt and remove engine from chassis.

Fig. 122

Fig. 123-Rr. shockabsorber mounting bolt & nut

Fig. 124 - Rear Shock Absorber (Rear View)

Fig. 125 - Engine & Foundation Bolt

73

74

ENGINE DISMANTLING :

T-0025095
Fixture for engine with bolt and 'U' clamp.
Remove: Silencer and rear brake drum.
Operation: Mount engine on fixture T-0025095

(Fig.126).
Dismantle: Take out cooling hood, carburettor, air
cleaner, A.C. box and reed valve carefully from
engine.

Cylinder head and cylinder:

Unscrew 4 nuts diagonally and evenly. (Fig.128)
Take out cylinder head and block.

Caution:

Do not try to take out cylinder head when the
engine is hot.

Fig. 126-Engine Mounting on fixture

Piston assy. and wrist pin:

T-0017820
Punch for dismantling wrist pin.
Remove: Circlips from both sides of piston wrist pin.
Operation: Punch out wrist pin with tool

T-0017820. (Fig.130)

Dismantle: Take out piston and roller cage.

Caution:

Tie the connecting rod to cylinder stud to avoid

hitting the crank case.

Fig. 127-Carburettor Cover Removal

Fig. 128-Cylinder Head Removal

Fig. 130-Dismantling Wrist PinFig. 129-Circlip removal

75

Clutch assy.:

T-0031729
Wrench for blocking clutch assy.:
Remove: Clutch cover.
Operation: Secure the clutch unit with wrench T-

0031729. (Fig.132)

T-0030627
Wrench for clutch nut:
Remove: pressure plate and straighten nut lock

washer.
Operation: Apply wrench T-0030627 and open
clutch nut. (Fig.132)
Dismantle: Clutch unit, woodruff key and shoulder
washer.For removal of Oil pump drive gear, metering
device shaft ref. page 42.

Fly wheel rotor and back plate:

19.1.20095
Locking tool for flywheel.
Remove: Flywheel cover.
Op eration: Secure flywhe el wit h tool No.

19.1.20095. Open the magneto nut and take out
alongwith washer. (Fig.133)

Fig. 131-Clutch Cover Removal

Fig. 132-Clutch Nut Removal

T-0048564
Flywheel extractor:
Operation: Secure the rotor unit with tool

19.1.20095 and screw in the extractor T-0048564.
Tighten the central bolt. (Fig.134)
Dismantle: Take out flywheel rotor. Unscrew 4
screws to take out back plate assy. along with wiring
harness.

Fig. 133-Magnetic Nut Removal

Fig. 135-Back Plate Assy. RemovalFig. 134-Flywheel Removal

76

Crank case halves separation:

Remove: Gear shifter box.

(a) Take out kick lever.

(b) Unscrew all crank case nuts diagonally and

evenly.

(c) Take out magneto side crank case half.

Crank shaft:

T-0038886

Tool for expelling crank shaft.

Operation: Fix the tool T-0038886 on crank case

half (clutch side) cover holes. (Fig.138)

Screw in centre bolt until crank shaft is removed

from crank case.

Caution:

Support crank shaft to avoid misalignment due to

falling.

Crank case half flywheel side:

T-0021467/2, 9, 16 and 18

Roller bearings extractor flywheel side crank

case half.

Remove: Starter sector gear shaft, kick return

spring, oil seal and kick buffers.

Fig. 136-Gear shifter box

Fig. 137-Magneto side crank case half removal

Main roller bearing:

Operation (I): Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part 18)

and spacer (Part 2). (Fig.139)

Extract bearing outer race with rollers from crank

case half.

Drive shaft roller bearing:

Operation (II): Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part

16) and spacer (Part 9). (Fig.139)

Extract roller bearing from crank case half.

Fig. 138-Crank Shaft Removal

Fig. 139-Bearing Removal

77

Crank case half (clutch side):

T-0021467/1&2
Ball bearing extractor, clutch side crank case
half.

Remove: Main oil seal, inner circlip.
Operation: Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part 1) and

spacer (Part 2) to extract main ball bearing from
crank case clutch side. (Fig.140)

Drive shaft assy.:

T-0020837
Punch for extracting drive shaft.
Operation: Extract dirve shaft assy. by using punch

tool T-0020837.(Fig.141)

Cluster gear assy.

Dismantle:

Lift the lock (Tab washer) from nut. Open the nut and
press the shaft inside from other ends of shaft and
take out 21 rollers. Tap with mallet to remove cluster
gear assy.

Fig. 140-Extracting ball bearing

Fig. 141-Extracting drive shaft

Drive shaft, ball bearing, oil seal and circlip:

T-0022480
Punch for expelling ball bearing from crank case.
Remove: Circlip and oil seal from crank case.
Operation: Expel ball bearing from crank case by

using punch T-0022480 from inside.(Fig.144)

Fig. 142-Cluster gear assy. removal

Fig. 144-Expelling ball bearingFig. 143-Cluster gear assy.

78

Clutch unit overhauling:

T-0020322
Tool for clutch unit dismantling & assembling.

Dismantling:

Operation:

(a) Fix the tool T-0020322 to clutch unit and

compress by tightening nut 'C'. (Fig.145)
(b) Take out circlip by lifting one end 'D' first.
(c) Release the tool and take out springs and clutch

plates.

Reassembly:

Operation:

(a) Fix the tool T-0020322 and compress the springs

between outer case and gear plate assy. by

tightening the nut 'C'.
(b) Place the plates in reverse sequence order of

dismantling proces.
(c) Fix the circlip in outer case (clutch bell) groove.

Fig. 145-Clutch unit

Fig. 146-Clutch unit - exploded view

Caution:

Both ends of circlip must be fixed between the
groove of clutch bell.

Crank Shaft Main roller bearing inner cone:

19.1.14499
Bearing extractor (inner cone) from crank shaft.

Dismantling:
Operation:

(a) Place adaptor halves (part 23) on inner cone.

(Fig.148)
(b) Fit the bearing extractor 19.1.14499 collet over

the adaptor halves to clamp firmly and extract

inner cone.

Fig. 147-Removing Clutch plates

Fig. 148-Extracting bearing inner cone

79

F-3115576
Punch for assembling bearing cone on crank
shaft

Assembling:

(a) Place crank shaft on a suitable block 'D'.
(Fig.149)
(b) Heat the inner cone 'C' in oil bath to temp. 100°C
and fit on crank shaft with punch
F-3115576. (Fig.149)

T-0025127
Wedge for crank shaft web support

Use wedge T-0025127 for crank shaft web support to
avoid deformation. (Fig.149)

Crank shaft alignment:

T-0019559/C
Jig for checking alignment
Operation:

(a) Place crank shaft assy. on jig

T-0019559/C. (Fig.150)
(b) Check eccentricity of dia 'C'. (Fig.150)

Max tolerance 0.02 mm.
(c) Check eccentricity of surfaces dia 'A' & 'B'

Max. tolerance 0.03 mm.

Fig. 149-Assembling bearing cone

Caution:

Do not attempt to dismantle crank shaft assy. for
repairs. Replace crank shaft assy. with a new
one.

80

Fig. 150-Jig for checking alignment

Drive shaft assy.

Remove: Circlip, shoulder washer and take off 4

gears in a sequence.

Dismantle:

(a) Unscrew gear control rod by turning clockwise

(left thread) from selector spider.
(b) Take out selector spider.

Assembly:

(a) Insert selector spider 'A' in drive shaft.
(b) Screw tight the rod 'B' (left thread) anticlock wise

to torque 1.5 - 1.8 kgm.
(c) Control rod to be caulked as shown in fig.151

Selector s p i d e r and ge a r control r o d :
(Fig.152)

1. Insert the selector spider 'A' in the drive shaft,

screw tight the rod 'B' (left hand thread) with a

1.5-1.8 Kgm. locking torque.

2. Cut a conic appendix 'C' as illustrated in fig.152

in a flat bar 'D' (thickness 5 mm) and insert the flat
bar in a spline of the gear shaft until the appendix
'C' coincides with the end 'F' of the gear control
rod to be caulked.

3. Clamp in a vice the flat 'D' bar, (the rod above), as

illustrated in fig.152, then tap with a hammer on a
tube (inner Ø17.5 mm) put on the rod edge 'B' to
caulk the threaded rod end 'F' on the selector
spider 'A'.

Fig. 151-Drive shaft assy.

Caution:

Please note the spider has left hand thread.

Fig. 153-Exploded view - drive shaft assy.

Fig. 152-Side view - drive shaft assy.

81

Gear assy. clearance check:

G-2107025
Feeler gauge for checking axial play of gears on
drive shaft.

Assembly:

(a) Circlip, shoulder washer of 1 mm and 4 gears

should be in sequence of 4th, 3rd, 2nd and 1st.
(b) Fit a suitable shoulder washer and outer circlip.
(c) Check axial play with feeler gauge G-2107025.

(Fig.154)
(d) Clearance 'A' should be between 0.15-0.40mm.

Spacer washer

Category Dim. Limits Clearance 'A'

(mm) (mm) on assy

Standard 1.0 + 0.00

- 0.06

1st o/s 1.1 + 0.00

- 0.06

2nd o/s 1.2 + 0.00 0.15 to 0.40

- 0.06 (mm)

3rd o/s 1.3 + 0.00

- 0.06

4th o/s 1.5 + 0.00

- 0.06

Note:

If the clearance “A” is not obtained by using the
normal spacer washer “B” , then fit oversize
washer to obtain prescribed clearance. Use a feeler
gauge (e.g. G-2107025, for inspection Fig.155).

Fig. 154-Gear assy. - cut section view

Fig. 155-Checking clearance

Spring gear assy.:

Remove the circlip and expel the pin by light mallet
blows on its end (on the opposite side of ball
bearing).

82

Fig. 156-Pin removal

Assembly clearances, tolerances and limits:

In case of a rebored cylinder, the dimension 'E'
(fig.157) should exceed the dimension 'C' on the
piston to be fitted (marked on the piston itself), by the
value indicated (Clearance on assembly)

Cylinder - Piston

Part name Size Limits

Cylinder E = 57.80 + 0.025
Standard - 0.005

Piston C = 57.585 ± 0.015
Standard

Cylinder E = 58 - 0.000
1st o/s + 0.020

Piston C = 57.785 ± 0.010
1st o/s

Cylinder E = 58.2 - 0.000
2nd o/s + 0.020

Piston C = 57.985 ± 0.010
2nd o/s

Cylinder E = 58.4 - 0.000
3rd o/s + 0.020

Piston C=58.185 ± 0.010
3rd o/s

Clearance on assy. = 0.225 mm.

Note:

Ensure that the arrow marked on the piston crown is
facing towards the exhaust port side at the time of
cylinder piston assembly.

Fig. 157-Cut section view - cylinder

83

Piston rings - (fig.158)

Part name Dimension Limits

Upper and lower piston

ring standard 57.8 ± 0.03

Piston ring 1st o/s 58.0 ± 0.03

Piston ring 2nd o/s 58.2 ± 0.03

Piston ring 3rd o/s 58.4 ± 0.03

Clearance “A” on assy. = 0.20 - 0.35
Max. Service limit = 1 mm

Connecting rod - wrist pin - roller cage (fig.159)

The connecting rods and roller cages are subdivided

in 4 categories and the category number is marked

on every connecting rod and roller cage.

Assemble the connecting rod with roller of the

same category, if the engine is noisy, use cages of

the next superior category.

Note:

The maximum axial clearance admissible after use
of the connecting rod (longitudnal run of crank
pin) is of 0.7 m m.

For the wrist pin, that is coupled with a '0' (Zero)
clearance on assembly the maximum permissible
clearance for wrist pin after use is 0.02 mm.

Fig. 158-Piston ring

Fig. 159-Cut section showing wrist pin

& connecting rod

84

IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES

Part Torques in Kgm

Engine unit

Backplate securing screw 0.3 -0.4

Starter lever securing nut 2.3 - 2.6

Pick up securing screw 0.2 - 0.25

Clutch unit securing nut 4 - 4.5

Gear cluster pin securing nut 3 - 3.5

Flywheel magneto securing nut 6 - 6.5

Carburettor securing bolts 1.6 - 2

Clutch cover bolts 0.6 - 0.8

Cylinder head securing nuts 1.3 - 1.8

Nuts (No 3) securing starting motor to crankcase 1 - 1.5

Lower bolt securing starting motor 0.6 - 0.8

Front suspension unit

Nuts for securing damper plate to steering column 2 - 2.7

Damper upper retaining nut 3 - 4

Damper lower retaining nuts 2 - 2.7

Bolt for jaw self-adjusting plate 0.7 - 1

Brake pin lever securing nut 0.7 - 1

Steering unit

Steering column upper bearing 5 - 6*

Steering column upper bearing ring nut 3 - 4

Handlebar securing screw 3 - 4.4

Rear suspension unit

Bolt for securing engine to chassis 6 - 7.5

Damper lower part. securing nut 1.6 - 2.5

Wheel unit

Rear wheel shaft securing nuts 9 - 10

Nut for securing front and rear wheel 2 - 2.7

Rims to the drum

Front wheel axle securing nut 7.5 - 9

* - When locking of 5 - 6 Kgm is reached, unscrew for 1/4 of turn.

85

Checks before reassembly:

Following points should be strictly adhered to
before reassembly of engine. Carefully examine the
condition of each and every individual parts.

Crank cases:

It should not be cracked or deformed and the
bearing seats should not be damaged or worn.

Ball bearings:

(a) Check the bearings and ensure that the axial

play should not be more.

(b) Check their smoothness by wheeling them by

hand.

Roller cages :

(a) For each re-assembling operation use new

cage, by observing following rules;

(b) Wash the new cage in pure petrol or in paraffin

in order to eliminate the slush.

(c) After greasing, place the roller cage with

stamped side facing outwards, which is fitted as
indicated in the respective fig. of the present
chapter, by using the proper tooling.

Shafts and axles:
(a) Bearing and sliding surfaces should not

present indentation and abrasions so that a
good running is compromised.

(b) They should be suitably lubricated. If required,

change with new one.

Starter gear/Sector gear :
Check that the teeth of the coupling are not
excessively worn out and the engagement with
starter gear is correctly carried out.

Clutch:
Check the wearing on the plates, couplings on plates
and toothing of the gear. If wearing is found then
replace the damaged parts.

Gears:
Check the condition of the toothing, if it presents
some spalling or an excessive wear, then replace
with new one.

Always use new gaskets, oil seals and split
pins.

86

Re-assembly of engine.

19.1.20017
Electric heater for heating crank case bearing
zone.

Operation: Heat the crank case bearing zone with

heater 19.1.20017 up to a temp. of approx. 80ºC
before fitting the bearing in the crank case. (fig.160)

Crank case half (Fly wheel side):
T-0021071
Punch for assembling crank shaft roller bearing.

Operation: Fit the main roller bearing 'A' by using

the punch T-0021071 in crank case. (fig.161)

T-0033971
Punch for drive shaft DC roller bearing. (fig.161)

Operation: Fit the drive shaft D C roller bearing 'B'

by using the punch T-0033971 in crank case.

Crank case half (clutch side):

T 0023589
Punch for main ball bearing and oil seal.

Main ball bearing, circlip and oil seal:

Fig. 160-Electric heater heating the crank case

Fig. 161-Assembling crank shaft roller bearing

Fix the crank case on fixtrue T-0025095 and heat
the bearing zone.

Operation: Fit main ball bearing 'E' by using the
punch T 0023589. (Fig.162)

Assemble: Place the inner circlip 'F'.
Fit the oil seal 'G' by punch T 0023589. (Fig.163)

Caution:

Ensure that oil seal is fitted with flat face towards
the bearing.

Fig. 162-Main ball bearing fitment

Fig. 163-Affixing the inner circlip

87

Drive shaft ball bearing and circlip:

T-0020781
Punch for assembling ball bearing and oil seal.

Operation: heat the bearing zone.

Fit ball bearing in crank case by using punch T-

0020781. (Fig.164)

Fit the retaining circlip 'I'.

F-2306849
Tool for assembling crank shaft and drive shaft.

Crank shaft assy:
F-2306849/1&2
Operation: Fit the crank shaft assembly by using

tool F-2306849 and parts 1 & 2. (Fig.165)

Drive shaft assy.:
F-2306849/1&6

Fit the drive shaft assembly by using tool
F-2306849 and parts 1 & 6.(Fig.166)

19.1.20781
Punch for assembling ball bearing and oil seal.

Fit the oil seal 'G' by using punch T-0020781.
(Fig.167)

Caution:

Ensure that the oil seal should not be pushed
against bearing retaining circlip.

Fig. 164-Assembly ball bearing & circlip

Fig. 165-Assembling crank shaft

88

Fig. 166-Assembling drive shaft

Fig. 167-Punching oil seal

Kick starter assembly & starter gear:

(a) Fix both 'O' rings in crank case half (flywheel

side) and apply small qty. of grease between 'O'

rings.
(b) Fit sector gear shaft and kick return spring.
(c) Fit the kick pedal.
(d) Replace stop buffers of starter sector gear.
(e) Fix oil conveyer rib.
(f) Place starter gear on cluster gear, ensure rachet

teeths are meshed.
(g) Place starter gear tension spring properly.

Crank case halves coupling:

(a) Smear grease on gasket surface of both the

crank case halves.
(b) Place gasket (on flywheel side crank case).
(c) Join the both crank case halves.

Caution:

Fix 4 nuts and tight them diagonally and evenly to
specified torque. Crank shaft should not be acted on,
for easing the free rotation. Tighten remaining 8 nuts
to specified torque values.

Fig. 168-Starter gear

Fig. 169-Crank case halve

T-0027338
Punch for assembling oil seal flywheel side:

Operation:

(a) Place the oil seal 'A' on seat of the punch

T-0027338.

(b) Push oil seal in seat. (Fig.170)

Clutch assembly

T-0030627
Wrench for clutch assy.:

Assembly:

(a) Fix woodruff 'key' and shoulder washer in

position. Mount clutch unit. Place the lock

washer and ring nut.
(b) Secure clutch unit by using tool T-0031729
(c) Tighten ring nut with wrench T-0030627 to

torque 4.0 - 4.5 kgm. (fig.171).
(d) Fold lock washer over ring nut slot.
(e) Fit the pressure plate in position.

Fig. 170-Assembling oil seal - flywheel side

Fig. 171-Wrench for clutch assy.

89

(f) Mount clutch cover and secure with bolts.
(g) Tighten the cluster gear securing nut and

bend the lock washer open nut.

Gear control box:

Locating the lever in gear control rod and press the
gear control box in position.

Flywheel magneto assy.:

Mount stator plate by coinciding the ignition timing
marks.

(a) Mount flywheel rotor on crank shaft after locating

the woodruff key in position.
(b) Lock flywheel with tool 19.1.20095 and tight en

the nut to torque 6 - 6.5 kgm. (Fig.175)

Piston, rings, cylinder and cylinder head:

Fig. 172-Bending lock washer open nut

(a) Place the needle cage in small and connecting

rod.
(b) Fit the piston assembly by pressing wrist pin into

connecting rod with a punch tool T-0017820.

(Fig.176)
(c) Lock the wrist pin on both ends with a circlip.
(d) Place the piston rings into a groove.
(e) Fit the cylinder block.
(f) Place the cylinder head and tighten 4 nuts

diagonally and evenly to torque values of 1.3-1.8

kgm.

Fig. 173-Gear control rod

Fig. 174-Flywheel magneto assy.

90

Fig. 175-Locking the flywheel with toolFig. 176-Assembling piston

Reed Valve :

Moun t Reed valve wi th new g aske t s in
position.

Air cleaner case:

Mount ai r c l e a n e r case wi t h packin g in
position.

Carburettor:

Mount carburettor assembly with packing in its
position.

Air cleaner, cover and cooling hood:

Fit air cleaner on the carburettor.
Fix air cleaner cover and cooling hood.

Silencer and brake drum:

Assemble silencer assembly and rear brake drum to
the specified torque values as mentioned on page

85.

Fig. 177-Mounting the air cleaner case

Fig. 178-Mounting the carburettor

Fig. 179-Mounting the air cleaner

91

Engine foundation buffers & TUBE
Remove: engine from chassis and take out silencer,

cooling hood and kick lever. Release both the
spacers after grinding on their faces and take out
with the help of a screw driver.

F-0709756 with attachments (A, B & C)
Fixture for extracting & fitting of engine
foundation buffers and tube:
Dismantling of foundation tube: (Fig. 180)
F-0709756/C
Tool for dismantling tube:
Operation:

(a) Insert lead screw (part 2C) alongwith support

tube (part 1C) and Hex. nut (part 3C) into
foundation tube from clutch side.

(b) From other end fix the nut (part 4C) on lead

screw, till it butts against foundation tube.

(c) Hold tommy bar (part 5C) and tight nut (part 3C)

till the tube comes out.

(d) Remove both the buffers from crank case

foundation with the help of screw driver. Unscrew
the nut (part 4C) and take out the tube.

Fig. 180-Fixture of extracting & fitting of

engine foundation buffers and tube

Assembling buffers. (Fig. 181)

F-0709756/A
Tool for assembling buffers:

(a) Insert stop washer in crank case foundation from

clutch side.

(b) Apply liquid soap on outer surface of small buffer

and press fit by thumb in crank case foundation
from clutch side. Ensure that tapered side of
buffer faces crank case.

(c) Insert the tie rod (part 2A) alongwith locator

(part1A) and nut (part 3A) into foundation
through buffer hole from clutch side. Flat face of
locator should be outward.

(d) From other end place the locator (part 6A) on

crank case foundation.

(e) Place big buffer duly dipped in liquid soap inside

the locator (part 6A) with tapered portion facing
inwards.

(f) Insert pushing pad (part 4A) into locator (part 6A)

above the buffer with tapered portion facing
inwards and screw the special nut (part 5A) on
tie rod.

Fig. 181-Tool for assembling buffers

92

(g) Tighten the special nut slowly and progressively

(part 5A) and tighten nut (part 3A) till big buffer
retains its position in the crank case foundation.
Unscrew special nut (part 5A) and take out tie rod
alongwith locators.

Assembly of tube: (Fig. 182)

F-0709756/B

Tool for assembling tube:

(a) Place fixture (part 9B) on crank case foundation

from magneto side.

(b) Fix the flange [(part 7B) (alongwith part 5B, 6B and

8B)] on fixture from clutch side and fix two nuts

(part 11B)

(c) Insert guide pin (part 3B) into foundaiton tube and

tighten with nut (part 4B).

(d) Insert pointed end of guide pin (part 3B) through

flange (part 7B) into crank case buffer and press

gently by hand.

Note:

Before inserting, ensure guide pin conical surface and
inner surface of buffers hole are applied with liquid
soap.

(e) Keep the lead screw open, screw-in outer tube

(part 2B) alongwith lead screw (part 1B), into

flange (part 7B).

(f) Tighten the lead screw (part 1B) slowly and

progressively, until foundation tube retains its

position in crank case.

(g) Loosen the lead screw (part 1B), remove outer

tube (part 2B) and unscrew nut from guide pin (part
3B) and take it out.

(g) Unscrew nuts (part 11B), take out flange (part 7B)

with fixture.

(i) Fit the spacers on both sides of tube (small size

spacer on clutch side and big size on magneto

side) and caulk the tube on both sides at four

places to hold spacers at both ends.

Fig. 182-Tool for assembling tube

93

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

CHASSIS 95

Handle bar 95

Petrol tank 95

Steering column 96

Front wheel hub & Caliper holding plate 98

Speedo drive pinion 99

Front suspension unit 100

Wind shield beading 102

Security locks 103

Glove compartment 104

Engine mounting on chassis 105

Control cables fitment 106

Cable routing & renewal 106

Rear brake pedal 107

Ignition switch 108

Tail lamp assy & blinker lamps 108

Operations and checks before operating 109

Care of vehicle when not in use 109

94

CHASSIS

Handle bar:

(a) Remove 4 screws from handlebar bottom.
(b) Lift upward speedo cable & disconnect from

speedometer.
(c) Disconnect electrical connections from socket.
(d) Remove Head Lamp assembly by unscrewing 2

crews from sides and 1 from bottom.
(e) Disconnect cables, (Accelerator, Gears, Clutch)
(f) Unscrew the handlebar clamp bolt and

take it out.
(g) Lift the handlebar bottom.

Dismantling and assembling :

Petrol tank:

(a) Disconnect fuel level indicator cables from petrol

tank top.

(b) Remove packing for fuel cock rod from frame.

(c) Now act on both securing bolts ‘B’ with spanner

and remove them alongwith spring washer

(fig.184). Now lift the tank out from the frame.

For oil tank removal ref. page 44.

For assembling follow the reverse operation as

above.

Fig. 184-Loosening securing bolts of petrol tank

Fig. 183-Handlebar

Petrol tank & fuel cock:

RS-00231

Wre n c h for fue l c o c k di s m a n t l i ng an d

assembling:

Dismantling:

Remove fuel gauge float unit.

Operation:

(a) Insert wrench RS-00231 in tank.

(b) Open the nut 'D'.

(c) Take out fuel cock. (fig.186)

Assembly: Follow reverse order of dismantling with

tool RS-00231.

Fig. 185-Lifting out the tank from frame

Fig. 186 - Tool for dismantling fuel cock

95

Steering column:

19.1.20055

Tool for track and ring nut (Stg.col.)

Remove: Handle bar. Push down control cables.

Operation:

(a) Place tool 19.1.20055 on the ring nut and open.

(fig.206).

(b) Again with the same tool open the upper track.

Caution:

Hold steering column while opening the track to
avoid damage to threads.

T-0020842

Punch for lower track removal.

Remove: Steering column from chassis frame.

Operation: Insert the punch T-0020842 from lower

end and punch out the lower track from the chassis

steering column tube. (fig.188)

19.1.20004

Punch for upper track removal.

Operation: Insert the punch 19.1.20004 from top

side of chassis steering column tube and punch out

the upper track of lower bearing. (fig.189)

Fig. 187-Exploded view - steering column

T-0016561

Extractor for lower track from steering column.

Operation: Assemble the tool T-0016561 on

steering column and extract lower race. (fig.190)

Inspection:

Check all tracks for any pitting or dents on the

surface. If found, replace the set of tracks and ball

cage.

Fig. 191-Tracks and Ball cage

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Fig. 188 Fig. 189

Punch for lower track & upper track removal

Fig. 190-Extractor for lower track

from steering column

Re-assembly:
T-0016029
Punch for assembling lower track on steering
column.
Lower track of lower bearing:
Operation:

Punch lower track 'S' with dust cover 'P' on steering
column with punch T-0016029. (fig.192)

Upper track and lower track on chassis steering
column tube:
T-0021330
Fixture for assembling lower track and upper
track on chassis steering column tube.
Operation:

Fit the tool T-0021330 alongwith upper track 'A' and
lower track 'B' in respective positions on the
chassis tube and tighten the nut 'D' (fig.193)

Steering column assembly on chassis:
Assembly:

(a) Insert steering column assembly with lower ball

cage duly greased into the chassis from lower
side.

(b) Place small ball cage 'A' duly greased and screw

upper track 'B' from top side.

Fig. 192-Punch for assembling lower track

on steering column

19.1.20055/C
Tool for track & ring nut.
Operation:

(a) Tighten the upper track with tool 19.1.20055/C

up to torque 5-6 kgm. (fig.194)

(b) Loosen the track by turning ¼ turn open (90°)

(fig.195)

Fig. 195-Loosening the track by 90°

Fig. 193-Fixture for assembling lower track

and upper track on chassis stg. column tube

Fig. 194-Tightening of upper track

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(c) Place spacer washer 'C' and tighten top ring nut

'D' to torque 3-4 kgm. (fig.196)

Check: Steering column rotation should be free
without play on its weight.

Front wheel hub and Caliper holding plate:
Front wheel Hub:
Dismantling:
Remove: Dust cap 'A', split pin 'B' and lock cap 'C'.

(fig.197)
Open the nut and take out the front brake drum.

Caliper Holding Plate Assy.

Remove:

(a) Shock absorber bolts, Caliper assy. and speedo

cable,Circlip lock and spacer washer from axle
shaft.

(b) Take out Caliper holding plate with spacer and

'O' ring.

Fig. 196-Tightening of top ring nut

Overhauling

Front wheel hub: (fig.198)

Remove: Oil seal 'F', Circlip 'G' and ball bearing 'H'.

Punch out needle bearing 'I' with suitable punch of
dia.18 mm.

Note:

Replace bearings, if worn out.

19.1.20038
Punch for assembling roller bearing in front
wheel hub.
Assembly : (fig.199)

(a) Heat bearing zone with heater.
(b) Use punch 19.1.20038 for roller bearing 'I'

fitment.

(c) Fit ball bearing 'H' with suitable punch dia of 34

mm.

(d) Lock with circlip 'G' and fix new oil seal 'F'.

Fig. 197-Removal of Dust cap

Fig. 198-Oil seal, Circlip

& Ball bearing

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Caliper holding plate assembly:
(a) Remove: Oil seals.

(b) Two needle bearings by suitable punch dia of 27

mm.

19.1.20036 and 19.1.20037
Punch for Caliper holding plate needle bearings
assembly from out side and inside.
Assembly:

(a) Heat the bearing zone of holding plate.
(b) Punch needle bearings with punch

19.1.20036 from outside and 19.1.20037 from

inside respectively.
(c) Slide on 'O' Ring on holding plate.
(d) Fit small oil seal from out side and big oil seal

from inside. Apply grease to holding plate

bearings.

Reassembly of Caliper holding plate and Front
wheel hub assembly:

(a) Place shim washer on axle shaft.
(b) Fit the brake jaw flange assy. Place shoulder

washer on the axle shaft and lock by circlip 'D'.
(c) Slip the seal ring into the gap of Caliper holding

plate and Link.
(d) Fit the front wheel hub and tighten the nut to

the specified torque value of 7.5 to 9 kgm.
(e) Place lock cap 'C' and lock with split pin (f) 'B'.

Fix dust cap 'A'. (fig.200)
(g) Refix the Caliper assy. on Caliper Holding Plate

Fig. 199-Assembling holder bearing in front hub

Fig. 200-Reassembly of brake drum

Note:

Ensure correct locking with split pin as shown in
fig. 201.

Speedo drive pinion Overhauling:

(a) Unscrew the bolt for fixing the plate from Caliper

holding plate and take out the cable fixing plate

alongwith the speedo cable. (fig.202)
(b) Check the speedometer inner cable for any

breakage. Replace if required.
(c) Remove the grommet & drive pinion housing.
(d) Rotate the wheel anticlockwise to remove the

speedo pinion. Check for damages, if any.

Replace if required, duly smeared with

recommended grease.
(e) Assemble the same in reverse order.

Fig. 201-Correct split pin locking

Fig. 202-Speedo Drive Pinion

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