General Electric Directions for Setting Up and Operating the General Electric Workshop Instruction Guides
DIRECTIONS for SETTING UP and OPERATING the GENERAL ELECTRIC WORKSHOP
NOTE: BEFORE ASSEMBLING WORKSHOP, READ OUTLINE OF ASSEMBLY ON PAGE THREE
WORKSHOP DIVISION Specialty Appliance Department GENERAL ELECTRIC COMPANY NELA PARK, CLEVELAND, O.
GENERAL ELECTRIC WORKSHOP OUTLINE OF ASSEMBLY
1. Remove outer carton and lay cabinet down with open side up. Remove loose packages.
2. Loosen and remove shaft support bolt and then motor base bolts. Wrenches are enclosed in a separate package alongside the legs.
3. Carefully remove lathe and set to one side.
4. Remove balance of loose packages and accessories and attach legs to cabinet. Bolts for legs are contained in No. 2 Package.
5. Attach lathe assembly to top of cabinet, being sure to reverse shaft support bracket. It will be necessary to remove bolt from wooden block used in assembly and place block and bracket in position before replacing bolt.
6. Mount saw blade on left-hand arbor with the upper teeth pointing toward the operator. Washer goes next to nut outside saw blade. TIGHTEN NUT SECURELY.
7. Loosen "T" handle on saw table assembly and wing nut on rear clamping device. Install saw table by tilting it almost vertically and sliding the clamp along the fixed shaft until it strikes the stop, BEING CAREFUL TO CLEAR THE SAW TEETH AT BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM. Lower table into position and tighten "T" handle and wing nut.
8. Mount the saw guard by means of the thumb nut on the rear end of the saw table.
9. TURN MACHINE OVER BY HAND TO IN-SURE FREENESS OF MOVING PARTS BEFORE APPLYING VOLTAGE TO MOTOR!
Detailed instructions for assembly are given on the following pages. For the assembly of the scroll saw, sander, etc., refer to the section covering those particular features.
ASSEMBLING THE BENCH AND MOUNTING THE MACHINE
Having removed the complete WORKSHOP from its corrugated container, carefully unpack and check over the various parts against the enclosed packing list. Should any parts be missing, return this packing list to the dealer who sold you the machine.
Having removed all loose parts, lay the cabinet with the open side up, loosen and remove the shaft support bolt and then the motor base bolts. Save all bolts, nuts, and washers and also the block of wood used in fastening the shaft support bracket.
Now carefully remove the main part of the machine and set it to one side. Later it is to be mounted on top of the cabinet in approximately the same position it occupied inside the cabinet.
The saw table, circular saw, and sander table, together with the remaining packing material should then be removed.
Remove leg bolts from Package No. 2 and attach legs to the cabinet. The legs fit on the outside corners of the cabinet, each leg being held in place by three bolts and nuts. The lower ends of the legs are formed so that the machine can be bolted to the floor in its permanent location.
Note that the legs come in pairs. It will be an easy matter to see which is the right one for each corner. No wrench need be used for tightening these bolts. Use a screw driver, holding the nut until the screw begins to tighten. Then tighten firmly into place. Note that play in the holes has been provided so that the legs may, if necessary, be adjusted to make up for unevenness in the floor.
After the bench is assembled, lift the machine into place on top of the bench. Bolt the power unit securely to the bench, using the same screws that were used in packing it. Slip the shaft support into place at the end of the fixed shaft, and bolt it in place, using the block of wood and carriage bolt which were used in packing.
THE SHAFT SUPPORT SHOULD BE MOUNTED SO THAT THE SLOT OPENING IN ITS BASE POINTS TOWARD THE MOTOR. The bolt will have to be removed from the wooden block to do this the block being then set in place and the bolt passed upward through it. Be sure the squared portion of the bolt fits into the squared end of the hole in the block.
Attach the connecting cord in the rear of the power unit, and the machine will be ready to operate.
Note: The metal cabinet bench is furnished as a convenient portable stand as well as a shipping container. If, however, portability is not important it is often desirable to mount the WORKSHOP on a wooden bench. This will practically eliminate any vibration and the increased steadiness of the bench will increase considerably the scope of the machine, as well as the pleasure derived from its operation.
If it is desired to mount the WORKSHOP on a wooden bench substantially the same procedure as above should be followed. The holes for securing the motor base should be first located and the motor base fastened down. The location of the hole for the shaft support bracket can then be determined by slipping the shaft support bracket on the shaft in its proper position and marking the location of the hole.
MOUNTING THE CIRCULAR-SAW TABLE
First remove the nut and washer from the left-hand arbor and place the circular saw squarely against the shoulder of the shaft, taking care that the teeth on the upper part of the circumference are pointing towards the operator. Place the washer against the saw and tighten the nut against it, holding the shaft stationary by inserting the locking pin provided in a hole in the arbor back of the saw. This pin, by the way, is to be used in all cases where it is desired to hold the shaft stationary while attachments are being screwed or unscrewed on the left-hand arbor.
It will be noted that there is a brake wheel on the right-hand shaft extension of the motor, in which three holes are located for use with a spanner wrench for holding the shaft stationary.
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Always use the holding device adjacent to the screw that is being tightened or loosened.
Note that the nut on the saw arbor has a left-handed thread. To tighten it, the nut will have to be turned in a direction opposite to the saw rotation. It is important to tighten this nut securely so that sudden application of a load on the other end of the motor will not cause the inertia of the saw to loosen the nut.
Now that the saw has been mounted in place, the next step is to mount the saw table. Loosen up the clamp where the table is to be held on the fixed shaft so that the shaft can enter freely, and the wing nut on the rear clamping device so that the clamp may slide over the guide bracket. Holding the saw table in front of you, take a position endwise of the machine, facing the circular saw. Tilt the saw table back until it points pretty well up toward the ceiling. Making sure that it clears the saw, slide it along the fixed shaft until the clamp reaches the stop. This stop is merely a collar on the fixed shaft, which is adjusted at the factory to properly locate the saw table.
Lower the table until it almost touches the motor, taking care that the wing nut on the rear left-hand side of the saw guard which operates the rear saw table clamp is loosened sufficiently, permitting the clamp to slip over the guide bracket. With the table in this position, tighten the clamp on the main shaft, and the wing nut on the rear clamping device. Be sure that the level of the table is such that its framework does not touch the saw arbor.
In operation, always guard against the accumulation of sawdust on the shoulder of the saw arbor and under the clamp members that hold the saw table on the main shaft.
Mount the saw guard by means of the thumb nut on the rear end of the saw table. Check up the alignment of the saw and the vertical support or "splitting" member of the saw guard. This can readily be done by sighting along the edge of the saw. Since the saw table is positioned by means of the factory-adjusted stop, very little aligning will have to be done. However, it is
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well to make sure that the saw table is square with the saw. If it is not, the positions of the locating stop, the main clamp, and the rear clamp bracket should be shifted until the saw blade and splitting member of the saw guard are aligned with the zero points on both the front and rear scales of the saw table. (It should be noted that the position of the rear clamp bracket may be shifted by loosening the two mounting screws and moving the bracket in the required direction, the mounting holes being slotted.) If the saw blade is not square with the saw table, pinching of the wood being ripped will result with consequent unsatisfactory operation.
Turn the saw over by hand to make sure that everything is running free. The saw will then be ready to operate. A little practice removing and replacing the saw table will soon show how simple the procedure really is.
Make a few experimental cuts both with the rip fence and with the miter gage so as to familiarize yourself with the operation of this part of the machine.
Note that the self-aligning ripping fence is designed to be fastened at one or both ends.
Caution: Do not crowd the motor. If the motor slows down, let up on the feed. Not only is the saw cutting inefficiently when it slows down, but also there is danger of doing serious damage to the motor. Let it take natural, easy cuts, and it will do better work.
There are times when, ripping a particularly crossgrained or sappy board, the cut will tend to close and pinch the saw to the point of completely stalling the motor. If this happens, lose no time in shutting off the current. This pinching often will be sufficient to stall a motor several times the power of the WORK-SHOP motor, and is not peculiar to this particular machine. When this happens, the cut will have to be "nursed" along by starting over and cutting far enough so that the "splitter" wedges into the cut and holds the edges apart.
In sawing small and particularly narrow pieces, do not use your fingers to feed the work past the saw. Instead, cut a notched stick, or pusher, which will
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serve both to bear down on the work and to push it through the saw. Always keep this accessory readily available.
To tilt the saw table for cutting bevels, it is only necessary to loosen the two hexagonal nuts holding the table proper in its cradles. In order to get at the rear nut, it will be necessary to loosen the thumb nut holding the saw guard in place and to swing the latter out of the way.
For cutting rabbets or grooves the table is tilted back toward the operator by loosening the clamp and adjusting for the depth of cut desired. Where long rabbets or grooves are to be cut, it will be necessary to remove the saw guard, since the saw will not be cutting all the way through the board. This is the only case where the saw should be operated without its guard. When the operation is completed, the guard should immediately be put back in place.
Caution: In operating with the table tilted back, that is, in cutting rabbets or grooves, be sure that everything is tightly clamped so that the table will not settle while the cut is being made. This includes not only the "T" handle on the main clamp but also the wing nut on the rear clamping device.
With the WORKSHOP is provided a combination set-tooth saw blade, suitable for both ripping and crosscut work. A hollow-ground saw blade (Cat. No. 68X115) can be secured as an accessory for obtaining unusually smooth cuts.
It will be noted that when the motor is turned over slowly the saw may show a tendency to wobble or weave. A saw will often show a moderate amount of weave at low speed. When it is operating at full speed, centrifugal force straightens it out so as to make it cut accurately.
SETTING UP FOR WOOD TURNING
The right-hand end of the motor shaft is threaded to take various attachments. In order to set up for lathe operation, the faceplate is screwed on to the threaded end of the motor shaft.
The tool rest is placed in the attachment clamp which permits of two adjustments: one, by means of the screw on the rear of this clamp, and another by means of the clamp on the fixed shaft. The square hole for the tool rest insures a rigid support by tightening the round shank against a "V" support. A further range of adjustment is possible by rotating the attachment clamp half a complete turn about the fixed shaft.
If faceplate work is to be turned, the material is screwed directly on to the faceplate. Pieces of any considerable diameter should, of course, be roughed out in advance, either on the saber saw or by hand. Not only does this minimize the work of turning, but also it prevents danger of splitting the piece due to the sharp corners catching in the turning tool, and provides for better balance of the rotating work. In turning faceplate work, as in all operations with rapidly rotating parts of considerable diameter, the operator should cultivate the habit of standing to one side of the plane of rotation.
Since the faceplate turns at high speed, faceplate work must be carefully centered if excessive vibration is to be avoided, particularly if the work is of large diameter.
Caution: Make sure that faceplate work is securely fastened to the faceplate before the motor is started.
Here again, it is advisable to guard against crowding the motor. If the motor slows down noticeably, let up on the feed.
For spindle turning, the work is held between centers, one of which is a conventional spur center which fits on the right-hand shaft extension of the motor and the other is the cup center, which is screwed into the small hole in the end of the tailstock spindle.
Before assembling the spur center to the arbor, the center of the square stock to be turned should be located and the spur center driven in with a wooden mallet to form indentations.
Do not use the tailstock wheel to force the spur center into the wood except with very soft wood. The spur center is now screwed on the motor shaft, the
motor shaft being held stationary by inserting the spanner wrench into the holes in the brake wheel.
The hollow center—not the cone center—is screwed into the small hole in the end of the tailstock spindle. Next, the piece of wood to be turned is placed between the two centers, with the tailstock lined up by means of the machined reference line on the fixed shaft, and tightened in position. By means of the tailstock hand wheel, the material is pushed tightly up against the spur center, the spur center meshing into the indentations in the end of the wood.
Do not hammer the piece of wood against the spur center when the latter is already mounted in the machine. IN FACT, AT ALL TIMES GUARD AGAINST DAMAGING THE THREADS, MACHINE SHOULDER AND BALL BEARINGS OF THE MACHINE. Next, the tailstock screw is backed up slightly, just enough to insure free rotation, and a drop or two of oil should be applied to prevent burning.
TURN THE MOTOR OVER BY HAND TO MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING IS RUNNING FREE BEFORE APPLYING VOLTAGE.
Wood turning is a fascinating art, complete instructions on which cannot be included here. However, a few thoughts are included for the guidance of the novice. The tool commonly used for roughing down square stock is the gouge—a sort of half-round chisel. In using this tool, the tool rest is generally placed slightly above center. Thus, the cutting edge meets the work head-on as it rotates up from the rear and toward the operator. The next tool more commonly used is the skew—a sort of oblique chisel. In using this tool the tool rest is lowered below center.
Both the skew and the gouge may be used as scraping tools. Scraping the work down to final form is not the approved method for expert wood turning, although most amateurs and many professionals employ it because there is less likelihood of a sudden digging in of the tool, with consequent possibility of spoiling the work after it is almost finished. However, it is suggested that the user experiment from time to time with the skew as
a cutting tool rather than a scraping tool. The glossy, hard-appearing finish obtained will be a source of great satisfaction to the man who learns to use the tool in this way.
The 1/8" parting tool, supplied with the machine, is used with the narrow edges up and down so that the cutting edge is the very tip of the tool, this being 1/8" This tool may be used either as a cutting or wide. scraping tool in this position to cut deep grooves in the stock in order to size it at definite points. It is also used, of course, as its name implies, in cutting the finished work free from the waste stock. For this operation the tool rest should be so adjusted that the tool is practically horizontal when pointing towards the center of the piece. In starting the cut, the tool should be lifted slightly above the center of the stock so that it will cut rather than scrape, and as the depth of the cut increases the tool should be gradually lowered until it reaches the center of the piece. While some operators cut the material clear in two in this manner, it is advisable to cut the work down to a size of between 1/2" and 1/4" and then to saw the remainder in two to prevent the work from being thrown from the machine.
Learning the manipulation of these tools from the printed page is likely to be discouraging. Practice in manipulation of the tools, on the other hand, will accomplish wonders.
An important consideration in turning is to hold the tool firmly. This prevents any tendency for the tool to follow the existing contour of the work instead of dictating the final contour. The best results are obtained by bold, sure manipulation of a tool firmly held.
Of course, the wood turner will ultimately want to have a great many more tools than are provided with the WORKSHOP. It is a common practice, even in professional wood-turning shops, to grind the desired shapes of tools out of materials commonly available—for example, a discarded file, a piece of tool steel or even a bar of untempered cold-rolled steel.
Where long spindles are to be turned, the shaft extension provided with the machine is used. To use
this, it is necessary first to loosen and remove the shaft support and then remove the tailstock which is later to be mounted on the extension. Now replace the shaft support. Insert the shaft extension and tighten it in place. Place the tailstock on this extension and proceed as before. By means of this extension it is possible to take pieces thirty inches between centers.
A word of caution is advisable here. While the lathe can swing a nine-inch diameter piece and can also take thirty-inch lengths between the centers, it would be obviously impractical on a machine of this size to use both capacity limits applied to a single piece, as, for example, in turning up a large pedestal.
For turning soft metals like brass or aluminum, the two cone centers are used, one in the faceplate and one in the tailstock. The material is prepared by finding its center and drilling a hole with a standard centering tool. A lathe-dog, engaging in the faceplate, must be used to rotate the piece. It is highly advisable at this operating speed to procure a "dog" that is not only well balanced but light in weight.
The WORKSHOP owner can readily provide himself with a suitable hand tool for turning metals. A satisfactory way is to acquire, at nominal cost, a highspeed tool steel bit. This can readily be held in a metal handle, made by drilling a hole endwise into a brass rod, and tapping another hole for a set-screw.
In turning metal on the cone centers, it is highly important that the tailstock cone be kept lubricated. A method generally employed in shops is to use a mixture of white lead and lubricating oil.
DRILLING
In order to insure the best possible alignment of drills and other attachments likely to be used in the drill chuck, no expense has been spared in providing the best type of industrial chuck suitable for this purpose.
This chuck screws directly on to the threaded end of the motor shaft. Before screwing it into place, make sure that both the chuck and the threads on the motor
shaft, as well as the seat against which the chuck squares itself, are free of sawdust or other foreign matter. Remember, it is the machined shoulder which squares up attachments, not the threaded parts. Too much emphasis cannot be placed on safeguarding the threads on the motor shaft against damage due to carelessness. Machinists always exercise all possible precautions in this respect.
In tightening the chuck in place, the shaft is held stationary by fitting the two lugs of the spanner wrench into a pair of the holes in the brake wheel. Drills can be readily tightened in the chuck by use of the chuck wrench provided with the machine.
Always be sure to remove the wrench from the chuck before starting the motor, otherwise the key may be thrown with considerable force when the motor starts up. In this connection, the one general rule, which cannot be too often repeated, is that THE MACHINE SHOULD ALWAYS BE TURNED OVER BY HAND FIRST, BEFORE THE SWITCH IS TURNED ON FOR ANY OPERATION.
Deliberateness is always called for in any machine tool operation. Deliberateness, like neatness, always results in a saving of time rather than a loss of time. Anticipate what the machine is going to do before you snap on the switch.
For ordinary drilling operations, the faceplate is screwed on the threaded end of the tailstock spindle. This provides a drill pad against which the work can be held. The hand wheel of the tailstock is then used to control the feed. Note that this hand wheel is calibrated so that each mark on its circumference corresponds to a thousandth of an inch of feed. One complete turn of the hand wheel results in a sixteenth of an inch of feed.
In order to protect the surface of his faceplate, the owner will probably wish to provide a wooden face which can be screwed in place so as to prevent the drills doing damage to the faceplate and the threaded hole at its center.
Many special uses of the drilling feature of the WORKSHOP are possible. Some of these are dis-
cussed a little later in connection with the use of the sanding table.
For drilling work held on the lathe faceplate, the chuck can be screwed on the tailstock spindle and the feed accurately controlled.
SANDER
The sanding equipment of the WORKSHOP consists essentially of a sander disk, which can be screwed on the motor shaft, and a sander table held in the attachment clamp.
It will be noted that the sander table is designed to take both the miter gage and the rip fence used in connection with the larger saw table.
To line up the sander table, merely have both screws on the attachment clamp moderately loose, and slide it along the main shaft until the edge of the sander table rests against the disk. Now tighten the rear screw. Then back the table away a sixteenth of an inch or so from the disk and tighten the main clamp. It will be noticed that different degrees of elevation can be obtained merely by rotating the whole mechanism about the fixed shaft, as well as by changing the adjustment of the rear screw.
Never allow too wide a gap between the sander table and the sander disk. Otherwise, small or thin pieces are likely to tip and wedge between the table and the sander.
A little experimenting will soon demonstrate to the owner that the outer edge of the sander disk cuts much more rapidly than do the surfaces nearer the center. He will do well to distribute the use of his disk by using parts of the disk nearer the center for work that can be just as well handled there and to spare the outer part of the disk.
It is a simple matter to remove the sandpaper when it has lost its abrasiveness by soaking the disk in hot water and applying a new sheet of sandpaper by means of any of a number of commercial cements available for this purpose, or ordinary water-glass.
OTHER USES FOR THE SANDER TABLE
The sander table, entirely aside from its uses in connection with the sander disk, is one of the most versatile parts of the WORKSHOP. For example, it is adapted for quantity production of small parts by the use of wooden jigs clamped to the table.
One of its most pleasing possibilities is its use in connection with a drill in the chuck as a mortising and doweling attachment. In cutting a mortise, for example, the work is laid face down on the sander table and fed, either by hand with the use of the miter gage or by means of the tailstock screw, against the drill. Accurate positioning of the drill with respect to the face of the work is possible merely by rotating the table about the fixed shaft and locking it in position. A strip of wood, of a thickness corresponding to the desired dimension between the face of the work and the edge of the mortise, can be laid between the drill and the sander table to simplify accurate positioning. In making the mortise, the two end holes are drilled first. Then, additional holes in between are drilled. Finally, the partitions remaining between these holes are broken down-using the point rather than the side of the drill for this operation. A tenon to fit such a mortise can readily be made by means of the circular saw, the ends being rounded on the sander or by means of hand tools.
It will be noted also that the sander table is slotted so that small saws or milling cutters, held in the grinding arbor, can be used in connection with it. There are available on the market metal cutting saws which enable speedy work to be done sawing non-ferrous metals on this table. What is known as a four-inch high-speed steel side milling cutter, of any desired face dimension, will do a surprisingly fine job of milling brass and aluminum with the aid of the miter gage. Such a cutter can also be used to great advantage with wood.
With a little ingenuity, it is also possible for the user to avail himself of standard molding cutters for special operations in wood.
In all of these operations, of course, the owner must
not overlook the possibility of using his tailstock for controlling feed, regulating depth of cut, etc.
There is practically no limit to how far individual resourcefulness may go in adapting these various parts to uses for which they were not primarily designed.
GRINDING
The grinding arbor is held in the chuck. This little attachment will prove of great value around a home, not only in the grinding of tools and cutlery, but also as a means of using buffing wheels, rotating brushes, etc., for various domestic purposes.
One grinding wheel suited to all-around operations is included with the WORKSHOP. This wheel may be used without a tool rest in the grinding of knives, or, for grinding various tools, it can be used in connection with the lathe tool rest. Obviously, the precautions already mentioned in connection with rotating parts should be taken when using the grinding attachment.
Naturally, grinding wheels are brittle and should not be subjected to severe treatment—as, for example, dropping them on a cement floor—when not in use. A crack in the wheel might result in a loose part being thrown off when the wheel is brought up to speed.
If buffing wheels are used in the grinder arbor, the general practice is to use the under front side of the wheel to do the work. This tends to draw the work away from the operator and permits greater pressure on the wheel without sacrificing safety. While no buffing wheels are supplied with the WORKSHOP, these, and compounds for use with them, can be obtained at any machine or jeweler's supply house.
SCROLL SAW
The scroll saw consists of two main assemblies: first, the saw mechanism proper; second, a removable overhead arm for use with fine blades.
The owner will find that for most ordinary shop operations he will prefer to use his scroll saw without the overhead arm, using the very rigid saber saws
provided with the machine. Generally, he will use a particular blade for all of his ordinary operations and leave it clamped in the machine. By doing this, he makes the attachment of the scroll saw ready for operation a matter of only a few seconds' time.
Two driving cranks, one for a short stroke and one for a long stroke, are supplied with the machine. The long stroke is recommended for use only when the machine is operated as a saber saw, that is, without the overhead arm. For use with finer blades and the overhead arm, the shorter stroke is recommended. This driving crank is held in the chuck and transmits a reciprocating motion to the saw through a fiber connecting link permanently attached to the scroll saw mechanism.
Examine the saw-clamping arrangement on the end of the sliding member in detail. First, loosen the screw, by means of a screw driver, in the end of this clamp. It will be noted that the clamp consists of three main parts: first, a post definitely fixed to the sliding member and having a quarter-inch hole through it; second, a square block with a "V" slot across its face; third, a hollow bell-shaped member which tightens down against the block by means of the screw already mentioned.
To set the machine up as a saber saw, select a desired blade—probably one of the wider blades would be best for this first set-up. The "V" slot is not used in connection with holding saws. Therefore, be sure that the "V" slot is horizontal rather than vertical. Insert the saw blade, with the teeth pointing down, between the square block and the hollow bell-shaped member and through the hole in the post, placing it far enough down so that only the desired length of blade extends above the table. Tighten the saw in place by means of a screw driver, making sure that its back edge is at right angles to the table top. This can be checked by means of an ordinary square.
Now note that there is a slotted saw guide for keeping the saw from weaving sideways directly under the saw table. With the saw in its proper position as outlined above, loosen the hexagonal nut which holds this saw guide in place, and push it forward so that the back of
the saw just touches the bottom of the slot. Note that the saw guide has a deep slot at one end and a shallow slot at the other. Use the proper slot so that the saw teeth extend beyond the end of the guide. Tighten the saw guide in place and proceed to mount the whole mechanism in the attachment clamp.
Before tightening the saw guide into position, care should be taken to see that the guide is not cocked in the groove in the saw table. If the guide is tightened in this cocked position, the sharp corners of the guide will cut a small shaving from the wall of the groove which will lodge beneath the guide and prevent its seating squarely. Thus the guide slot will tend to bind the blade and cause noisy and inefficient operation. If this condition is encountered, it will be necessary to remove the saw guide, clean out the guide groove with a sharp instrument and properly re-install the saw guide.
Having already placed the driving crank in the chuck, move the mechanism along the fixed shaft and insert the pin of the driving crank in the free hole of the fiber connecting link. Make sure that the top of the saw table is level and tighten the main clamp. Turn the Motor Over by Hand to Make Sure that Everything Is Running Free. Be sure that both "T" handles of the attachment clamp are tight before applying voltage to the motor. A drop or two of oil should be placed in the bronze runways, after which the machine is ready for operation.
Given in great detail, these instructions seem complicated. However, it will be found that these various adjustments are very easily and quickly made.
Make a few experimental cuts to familiarize yourself with the machine. If you are not experienced in operating a machine of this type, a little practice will be needed to cultivate the habit of pressing down on the board in order to prevent its being lifted by the saw on its upstroke. Do not be afraid to exercise pressure against the saw. This will make it cut much more rapidly.
For finer scroll work, where the thinness of the blade used requires that it be held under tension, the overhead arm is used. Before attaching the overhead arm to the
saw table, the upper saw mechanism should be assembled. The upper reciprocating member, which is kept from turning by means of a key sliding in an axial groove, is inserted in the hole provided in the overhead arm. The spring is then assembled on the upper guide housing and the washer, nut, and locking wing nut are screwed on the threaded portion of the reciprocating member in the order named.
For convenience in packing, the overhead frame is shipped with the upper "roller" blade guide, assembled in the reverse position. This should be properly inserted from below the housing, before the overhead arm is assembled to the table.
The manner of mounting this arm on the scroll saw proper is readily apparent. The four metal dowels on the body of the machine fit into corresponding holes on the overhead arm casting, and insure proper alignment. The arm is tightened in place by means of a hexagonal-headed bolt. A simple way to insert the saw blade is to slide it loosely through the clamp on the lower sliding member. Be sure that the teeth of the saw point downwards. Fasten the upper end of the saw blade in the clamp on the sliding member of the overhead arm. Now push this sliding member down against the pressure of the spring half an inch or so, and, with the crank in its extreme "up" position, tighten the clamp on the lower sliding member. Turn the machine over by hand to make sure that everything is running free. Some experimenting with the spring tension may be necessary for most satisfactory operation.
Slide the roller saw guide for the saw on the overhead arm down far enough so as to just clear the thickness of the board that is to be sawed. The saw guide under the table is not to be used in connection with fine blades. Therefore, when using the overhead arm, it is best to move it back out of the operating position.
With the WORKSHOP is supplied a high-speed steel blade, which will prove of great value in cutting metals both iron and the softer metals. It is used as a saber saw, without the overhead arm.
The scroll saw attachment can also be used to hold round shank machine files, with shanks up to one-fourth
of an inch in diameter. Mention has already been made of the "V" slot in the square block against which saber saws are clamped. When saw blades are used, this slot should be horizontal. When files are used, this block must be turned so that the "V" slot is vertical . The round shank of the file rests in this "V" slot and is clamped there by tightening the screw.
Sometimes it is desirable on a scroll saw to make beveled cuts. For this reason the saw table is tilted sideways in the same manner as has been described in connection with the circular-saw table.
If it is desired to saw unusually large pieces by means of the saber saw, an unlimited "swing" can be obtained merely by removing the circular-saw table and the circular saw.
Note that the bronze runways are adjustable to take up wear and prevent chatter.
GENERAL CARE OF THE WORKSHOP
Most of the parts of the WORKSHOP are rust-proof. Some of them, however, must be protected against rust, particularly where the machine is stored in a damp place. It is well to rub the fixed shaft from time to time with an oiled rag.
The best general protection against rust is to make sure that the machine is covered when not in use. A piece of light oilcloth, rubberized cloth or even an old piece of carpet will serve effectively.
In the event that the location of the WORKSHOP is such that the rust films persistently return, the use of a commercial preparation such as RUSTICIDE will provide a simple and effective method of removal. To prevent the reoccurrence of this rust, a light coating of another preparation, RUST-VETO, may be applied.
RUSTICIDE may be secured in 1/2-pint and 1-quart cans from the Rusticide Products Co., 1919 East 19th St., Cleveland, Ohio. RUST-VETO may be secured from the E. F. Houghton & Co., Philadelphia, Pa. These two products are good examples of the type of commercial preparations available for this sort of service.
Take good care of the motor, which, of course, is the heart of the WORKSHOP. If the motor stalls on any particular operation, be sure to shut it off promptly, and do not start it up until the cause of the stalling has been removed. Fortunately, the motor gives advance warning, readily detectable before stalling, and complete stalling will be relatively infrequent. If the motor tends to slow down on any operation, let up promptly on the feed so as to allow the motor to come up to speed.
The ball bearings of the motor are packed in grease when it leaves the factory. No further lubrication of the motor will be necessary during the first year of use. At the end of the year, remove the screw over each of the bearings and add five to ten drops of light oil to each bearing at six-month intervals.
Your WORKSHOP is capable of performing most of the machine operations called for by the more common jobs. No matter how completely a shop is mechanized, there will always be need for the ordinary hand tools. In order to get the most out of your shop, in an amateur or a professional way, the supplementary tools, such as planes, chisels, hand-saws, etc., will always play an important part. Keep them in good condition, well sharpened, and always ready for use. With their aid, the scope of your WORKSHOP will be extended to include operations not at first apparent as being possible.
Be sure to keep all of your tools sharp. The circular saw will probably need no filing for several months unless it is subjected to severe use. In connection with the saber saw however, it must be remembered that only a relatively small number of teeth are doing the work. For this reason more frequent filing of the saber saw will be necessary. In doing this, simply clamp the saber blade in a vise and file it in accordance with the original angles.
Play safe! Do not try to use any of the power-driven appliances for freak operations without taking into account all possibilities for accidents. Roll up your sleeves. A loose, dangling sleeve or necktie often holds more potentialities for danger in connection with machine-driven tools than sharp tools themselves.
Do not assume that because you have tightened a bolt or nut at any time that it will stay tight. Check things over occasionally.
Probably, your first jobs on the WORKSHOP will have to do with organizing the shop itself. Bins for nails and screws, compartments for WORKSHOP attachments, a stand for holding twist drills, a work table, if you do not already have one, are among some of the things that will give you an opportunity to initiate the WORKSHOP. You will note that a set of holes in the bench legs provide for a lower shelf which can readily be made. Also, you may wish to rip a narrow strip to insert along the front edge of the metal shelf of the bench to prevent tools falling out as a result of vibration which may occasionally occur.
Do not neglect to sign and mail the enclosed card so that additional WORKSHOP suggestions may be sent to you from time to time.
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