Adjusts the sensitivity to dampness along the detection cable. The default setting is
low, which is generally sufficient for detecting spills from broken pipes or overflowing
tanks; however, if your particular application involves smaller leaks, such as from an
air-conditioner’s drip pan, the medium or high sensitivity settings may be required instead.
Higher sensitivity may also be required if you need to detect leaks of distilled or deionized
water, or other fluids which are only weakly conductive. You may need to experiment to
find the best setting for your particular requirements. (Note: if you change this jumpersetting, you must power-cycle the LD300 for it to recognize the change.)
LOW
(alarms on 6” (152mm)
of wetted cable)
MEDIUM
(alarms on 2” (51mm)
of wetted cable)
(13mm) of wetted cable)
HIGH
(alarms on 0.5”
RELAY MODE jumper:
Controls the behavior of the output relays when a leak-detection or cable-fault event
occurs. In “supervised” mode, both relays are energized when conditions normal, and
de-energize when an alert occurs; in “non-supervised” mode, the relays are de-energized
when conditions are normal, and energized when an alert occurs. This action is illustrated
by the diagrams below: (Note that the terms “normally open” (NO) and “normally
closed” (NC), when describing relay actions, refer to the state of the relay contacts in the
relay’s “normal”, i.e. de-energized state, not to “normal” as in normal room conditions!)
“Supervised” mode is recommended because if the LD300 loses power, both relays will
de-energize, resulting in a simultaneous “leak detection” and “cable fault” event being seen
by the monitoring unit which the LD300 is connected to. Since both of these conditions
can’t be true at the same time, the simultaneous occurrence of both events indicates that the
LD300 is no longer functioning. In “non-supervised” mode, you would not see any
relay-state change if the LD300 lost power, and wouldn’t have any way to know the unit
was no longer working. (Note: if you change this jumper setting, you must power-cycle theLD300 for it to recognize the change.)
Ÿ Connecting the Leader Cable:
The “Leader Cable” is a 15-foot (4.57m) white cable with a twist-lock connector at one end
and four bare, stripped and tinned wires at the other. To connect the Leader Cable, make
sure the four colored wires are stripped so that approx. ¼ inch (7mm) of bare wire is
showing, then insert the
wires into the appropriate
terminals of the CABLEINPUT terminal block and
tighten the screws to lock
the wires into place, as
–
5VDC
DC IN
+
NCNCNONOCC
FAULTLEAK
BWRG
CABLE
INPUT
B = Black
G = Green
R = Red
shown here.
Ÿ Connecting the Leak-Detection Cable(s):
Your leak-detection kit will include one or more lengths of orange Leak-Detection Cable.
The cables are designed to be daisy-chained together, so each cable will have a 4-pin male
twist-lock plug on one end, and a 4-pin female twist-lock socket on the other. The first
length of Leak-Detection Cable connects to the Leader Cable from the LD300 Control
Box, and additional lengths (if any) are chained together as necessary.
POWER/ALARM
LD300
terminator plug (if required)
is attached to last length of
sensing cable in the chain.
first length of sensing cable
attaches to the leader cable
from the LD300 control box...
additional lengths
are daisy-chained
as necessary...
Some kits are supplied with a cable that is permanently terminated at one end; if your kit
is one of these, then the terminated cable must be the last cable in the chain. If your kit
does not include a pre-terminated cable, then the Terminator Plug must be attached to the
last cable in the chain, as shown here.
Non-Sensing Cable, available as an optional accessory, is an economical way to route
around or over non-monitored spaces, such as doorways, or to give greater flexibility in
where to mount the control box without wasting Leak Detection Cable across areas where
there is no need to actually sense liquids. Non-Sensing Cable can be connected anywhere
within the chain.
POWER/ALARM
LD300
Non-Sensing Cable is used
to go around the door frame
Ÿ Connecting the relays to a monitoring unit:
Using the 4-conductor alarm wire supplied with the kit (or any suitable 4-conductor wire),
with the relay mode jumper in “supervised” mode, connect the signals between the LD300
control box and the monitoring unit’s analog-input terminal block as shown here:
ANALOG INPUTS
5
C
Dry Contact / 0-5VDC
6
C 1
C 2 C 3 C 4
–
5VDC
DC IN
+
NC
C
NONO
NC
FAULTLEAK
W
B
G
CABLE
INPUT
R
CC
1 2 3
1
C
C3C4C
2
C
C
wire
color
LD300
Control Box
RSE-series
monitors
RSO or GBB-series
monitors
whiteFAULT Cleft CC
greenFAULT NO11
blackLEAK Cleft CC
redLEAK NO22
On an RSE-style terminal block, both the white and black wires can be inserted into the
same ‘C’ terminal; on the RSO and GBB-series units, each numbered analog input has its
own corresponding ‘C’ terminal. (The different terminal-block styles are illustrated
above.) Note that the use of inputs #1 and #2 here is merely an example; any of the
numbered analog inputs can be used, as long as the red and green wires are connected to
different inputs, and those inputs don’t already have other sensors connected to them. You
cannot, however, connect both the red and green wires to a single analog input; the “fault”
and “leak” signals must be connected to separate inputs for the unit to work properly.
The LD300 Control Box is powered by a standard 5VDC wall transformer-style power
supply. Make sure both wires are stripped so that approx. ¼ inch (7mm) of bare wire is
showing, then insert the wires into the appropriate terminals of the 5VDC DC IN terminal
block and tighten the screws to lock the wires into place, as shown here.
–
+
NCNCNONOCC
5VDC
DC IN
FAULTLEAK
BWRG
CABLE
INPUT
striped wire is negative (–)
unstriped wire is positive (+)
CONFIGURING THE MONITORING UNIT’S ANALOG-INPUT AND ALARM
THRESHOLD SETTINGS:
(note: these instructions assume that the Leak Detection Kit is connected to an RSE-series
or RSO unit with firmware v3.6.1 or higher, or a GBB-series unit with v1.5.1 or higher.)
The first step is to re-name the analog inputs to something more descriptive, to help
identify the “cable fault” and “leak” signals when looking at the unit’s logged data or
e-mailed alert messages. These names can be changed from the Display tab, in the section
titled Analog Sensors.
If you connected the signals
according to the examples above,
Analog 1 will be the “Cable Fault”
signal, and Analog 2 will be the
“Leak Detection” signal, so change
their Friendly Names as shown here,
then click Save Changes. (The Min and Max settings can be left at their defaults.) Change
the Friendly Name settings for the two analog inputs which the signals from the LD300
control box are connected to.
Next, go to the Alarms tab, and click the Add New Alarm button to create a new alarm entry.
Choose “Cable Fault” from the
list of measurements, then set the
trips if and threshold entries to
Above and 50, as shown here.
Alarm must remain tripped for should
be left at 0; if you wish the unit to
repeatedly send alarm messages for
as long as the alarm condition
perists, set Repeat Every as desired.
(If not, leave it set to 0 or No
Repeat.) Choose the actions you want to occur (e-mails, SNMP traps, relays, etc.) from
the checkbox list on the right, then click Save Changes.
Then, click Add New Alarm again, choose “Leak Detection” from the list of
measurements, set trips if and threshold to Above and 50, choose the actions you want, and
Save Changes. In the example shown here, “baz@mailinator.com” will be notified if a
cable fault occurs, while both “zed” and “baz” will be notified if a leak detection occurs.
When conditions are normal, both sets of the control box’s relay contacts will be closed,
and the Cable Fault and Leak Detection inputs will read 0, as shown here.
If water is detected by the sensing
cable, the “leak” relay on the control
box will de-energize, opening the
contacts, and the Leak Detection
input will read 99, as shown here.
If a fault is detected in the sensing
cable, the “fault” relay on the control box
will de-energize, opening the contacts, and
the Cable Fault input will read 99, as shown
here. Examples of a cable fault would
include an accidental disconnection of the
leader cable fro m the control box,
disconnection of one of the sensing-cable
segments, a break or cut in either the leader
or sensing cables, or failing to install the
terminator plug or pre-terminated sensing
cable at the end ofthe chain.
If the LD300 control box loses power, both
relays will de-energize, causing the Cable Fault and Leak Detection alarms to occur
simultaneously. Since these events can’t occur at the same time under normal
circumstances (obviously, a faulty cable can’t detect water!), receiving both of these alerts
at the same time would indicate that the Leak Detection Kit itself is no longer functioning.
If the orange Leak Detection Cables become contaminated by oils, solvents, or conductive
residues, it may continue to give a “wet” signal even though the cable and surrounding area
appears dry. If this happens, the cable can be cleaned as follows:
Clean the cable with isopropyl alcohol:
Cleaning the cable with alcohol allows you to clean the sensing cable without completely
disconnecting and removing it from its installed location. Instead, you’ll remove each
section of cable you wish to clean from its J-clips, wipe it down, and reinstall the cable.
This method will clean most contaminants from the cable, and is generally sufficient in
most cases.
1. Obtain a dye-free heavy cloth rag and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol.
2. Remove the first section of cable to be cleaned from its j-clips.
3. Soak the rag with alcohol.
4. Wrap the rag around the cable and squeeze firmly while pulling the rag down the
length of the cable.
5. Flip the rag over every several feet. Re-saturate the rag with alcohol as required.
6. Once you’ve reached the end of the first section of cable, place it back in the J-clips
and proceed to the next section.
7. Replace the rag if it becomes too dirty.
Clean the cable with warm, soapy water:
If the cable still gives a false “wet’ signal even after you’ve cleaned it with isopropyl
alcohol as above, or if the cable appears so dirty that it requires a more intense scrubbing,
the cables may be cleaned with warm, soapy water instead. This process requires you to
completely remove the cable from its installed location, submerge it in a soap-and-water
solution, scrub it with a brush, and hang it to dry for several hours, so it is highly
recommended to try the alcohol-cleaning method first.
1. Remove the sensing cable from its installed location. Labeling the sections of cable to
note their location for later reinstallation is highly recommended.
2. Add dish soap (such as Dawn™) to a bucket of warm water, using about 1 cup (250ml)
of detergent per gallon (4 L) of water.
3. Submerge a section of the cable in the water and, using a scrub brush or rag, scrub
along the surface of the cable with firm pressure. Be sure to scrub all sides of the cable.
4. Remove the section of the cable from the soapy solution and rinse it in a bucket of
clean, fresh water.
5. Ensure there are no oily deposits along the length of the cable. If the cable does not
appear clean, repeat steps 3 and 4.
6. Hang up the cable to dry. Try to point the connectors down, so water cannot pool
inside the connectors. The drying process may take 6 - 48 hours, depending on the
room conditions.
7. Once the cable is completely dry, reinstall it in its original location.