Some parts have sharp edges and should be handled
very carefully. We recommend the use of protective
gloves and footwear when assembling.
DO NOT attempt to erect this shed in windy weather.
All dimensions are approximate.
CALL 0508 454 873
for an installer near you
BEFORE YOU BEGIN:
To avoid any confusion with your new
shed build, we strongly suggest that you
unpack and identify each part before you
begin to put it together.
ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTIONS
YOU SHOULD HAVE TWO PACKAGES:
• 1 cardboard package
• 1 channel pack
TOOLS SUPPLIED:
• 1 riveter
• 3.3mm double ended drillbit
TOOLS REQUIRED:
• Battery or electric drill (drill bits supplied)
• Tape measure
• Ladder
• Non-slip gloves, good shoes and goggles
• A set of helping hands
THIS SHED
WAS PROUDLY
PACKED BY:
Please quote
this code for any
correspondence back
to the supplier
GM2308
SLOPING ROOF SHED
2280mm wide x 780mm deep x 1830mm - 1770mm high
SCAN TO
WATCH OUR
ASSEMBLY VIDEO
HERE
25
YEAR
WARRANTY
1974
EST.
2
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
COMPONENTS CHECKLIST
Please check the parts carefully and advise immediately if any are damaged or missing.
A
3 x 1770mm sheets for the back
B
2 x 1830mm - 1770mm sloping sheets
(side walls 1 left, 1 right)
C
3 x 980mm sheets for the roof
D
1 x780mm wide sheet with
door jamb attached
E
Door pre-hinged to 700mm sheet
with door jamb
F
4 x 780mm channels for end walls
2 x 2255mm channels for the roof
G
4 x 2255mm channels with ends cut for
front and back walls
H
2 x 980mm ‘L’s for flashing the roof
to the side walls
I
2 x 793mm door spacers
1 x pack of rivets with padbolt for Zincalume
sheds, rivets for colour sheds, 2 x ‘Z’ door
braces and riveter for general assembly
Pan
Rib
J
IMPORTANT!
• Remove the swarf (drill filings) from the panels as you assemble them.
• All components are cut to length. Do not cut any parts unless instructed.
• Rivets through the inside of the channels into the sheeting are just as important
as rivets from the outside.
RIBS AND PANS
• Generally most rivets are spaced at 300mm apart.
• Keep the rivets in the pans as close to the ribs as possible for added strength.
• Ribs will always protrude to the outside of the shed.
• Extra internal rivets are strongly recommended in high wind areas.
DIAGRAM 1 DIAGRAM 2 DIAGRAM 3
BUILDING YOUR SHED
The basic task is to join the sheets together to form your
panels, and rivet channels to the top and bottom of these
panels. They will then join together to form your shed
(diagram 1, 2 and 3).
3
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
STEP 1: FRONT WALL
1. Slip
D
780mm wide sheet with door jamb under door. Use
I
door spacer to
determine the correct opening size by placing on the bottom flange of the door
jambs. Then rivet
G
channels to tops and bottoms of sheeting.
2. Outside: Rivet channel at corners and every 2nd rib between and through door
jambs and spacer.
3. Inside: One rivet per sheet at each end up through channel underside and
through door jambs and spacer.
Rivet padbolt to the outside of door using wide flange rivets supplied.
Channels will come short of the ends of the
sheeting by 10-15mm on all panels.
YOU WILL NEED:
1 x 780mm wide sheet with
door jamb attached
Door pre-hinged to 700mm
sheet with door jamb
1 x 2255mm top channel
1 x 2255mm bottom channel
2 x 793mm door spacers
D
E
G
I
The higher side of the channel goes to the
inside of the shed. It is very important to
include the rivets on the underside of all the
channels as they are structural
(except roof channels).
FITTING CHANNELS
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
The cutouts go to the inside of the panel to
allow easy fitment of the end walls
on assembly.
CHANNELS WITH CUTOUTS
BOTTOM
TOP
Padlock keeper assembly
keeper
washer
Rivet
To hinge the door on the opposite side,
simply put the top channel on the
bottom and the bottom on the top.
Put the padbolt on the door before
erecting the panels. It will stop the
door swinging around!
A Drill and rivet here.
B Drill through to the underside.
Rivet top and underside.
A B
GARDEN MASTER TIP
D
E
I
G
I
G
SCAN TO
WATCH OUR
ASSEMBLY VIDEO
HERE
A Door jamb fits inside bottom channel.
B Door spacer fits inside door jamb but
to the outside of bottom channel.
A B
4
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
DIAGRAM 4
YOU WILL NEED:
3 x 1770mm sheets for the back
1 x 2255mm top channel
1 x 2255mm bottom channel
A
G
STEP 2: BACK WALL
1. Join 3
A
sheets together with 2 rivets through the overlapping ribs
making sure the ends of the sheets are flush.
2. Cap sheeting with
G
channels putting the cutouts top and bottom
same as the front wall.
3. Rivet the channels through the end ribs and every 2nd rib between.
4. Make sure you put at least 1 rivet per sheet up through the
underside of the channel into the pan of the sheet.
YOU WILL NEED:
3 x 980mm long sheets
2 x 2255mm channels
2 x 980mm ‘L’s
C
F
H
STEP 3: ROOF
1. Join 3
C
980mm sheets together, same as the back.
2. Cap sheeting with
F
2255mm channels.
3. Rivet the channels at every second rib but not the corners at this stage.
4. Place the short flange of the ‘L’ on top of the rib at one end. Make sure ends are
flush with sheeting (diagram 4) and put one rivet in the centre to hold the ‘L’.
Rivet the corners through the channels and one more between the corner
and the centre rivet. Perform the same at the other end.
5 rivets for each ‘L’.
Put extra rivets in for high wind areas,
particularly on the underside.
GARDEN MASTER TIP
G
A
G
H
F
C
H
F
SCAN TO
WATCH OUR
ASSEMBLY VIDEO
HERE
5
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
STEP 4: END WALLS
1. Cap the sloping sheets
B
with
F
780mm channels.
2. Rivet the channels at the corners and every 2nd rib in between.
3. 2 rivets up underneath through channel into pan of sheet.
4. Perform the same again for the other end.
YOU WILL NEED:
2 x 1830mm - 1770mm sloping sheets
(side walls 1 left, 1 right)
4 x 780mm channels (2 per side)
B
F
Channels will end 15-20mm
short at tops of end walls
and 10-15mm at bottoms.
YOU WILL NEED:
2 x ‘Z’ Door braces
Rivets for Zincalume sheds
Rivets for Colour sheds
J
J
J
STEP 5: DOOR BRACES
1. The door braces can be riveted now or after you have
assembled your shed.
2. Tuck one end of the ‘Z’ between the bottom channel of the
inside of the door and the sheet. Do the same at the top,
overlapping in the centre behind the padbolt.
If you have a locking ‘T’ handle you will have to run the
‘Z’s the opposite way to the diagram.
3. Rivet the ‘Z’s at the ends, and in the centre of the channel
it is tucked under, and through the overlap in the centre.
Two or three more rivets will be required through the door
sheeting into the ‘Z’, but they will need to be riveted through
from the outside of the door for a neater appearance.
4. You may need to cut or bend the flange at the bottom
and the top of the ‘Z’ if it catches on the door jamb when
opening or closing (diagram 5).
B
F
F
SCAN TO
WATCH OUR
ASSEMBLY VIDEO
HERE
5
DIAGRAM 5
before
after
ABOVE
Z door braces in position on
the inside of door sheet
6
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
DIAGRAM 6
DIAGRAM 7
DIAGRAM 8
L FLASHING
Rivet through the side of
the ‘L’ flashing to secure the
roof to the side of the shed.
DIAGRAM 9
Use the handle end of a hammer in the
inside of the corner, but beware of drilling
holes on the end of your hammer!
GARDEN MASTER TIP
STEP 6: INSTALLATION
WALL ASSEMBLY
Stand up the back wall and as your helping hand is holding it up, bring the left end
wall in to meet it at the left corner (diagram 6) overlapping the corners (diagram 7).
Drill and rivet at approximately 100mm down from the top and up from the bottom,
drilling and riveting from the outside.
Bring the right end wall into the right back corner and perform the same again,
checking to make sure the walls are sitting flat at the bottom. Bring the front wall into
place and join the front corners to the end walls, same as the back (diagram 8).
Finish joining the corners by riveting at approximately 200-300mm apart. You will
find it easier to drill these corners if they are supported on the inside (see tip).
FIXING THE ROOF
With a person at each end of the roof, lift it over the top of your upright walls and
lower down on top with an overhang that looks best to you (diagram 9). At the left end
rivet through the ‘L’ flashing into the top channel of the left end wall.
Measure the overhang at the back and rivet the right end ‘L’ to the right end wall
with the same overhang as the left end. If it is difficult to get the same overhang at
each end, this will be caused by an unlevel site or walls that are not square. Adjust
accordingly. Rivet the ‘L’s at 300mm apart.
Using the ladder and the tape measure, rivet down through the top of the roof, through
the pan into the top channel of the front and the back walls (10mm more than the
overhang). Rivet beside every second rib. You will not need to worry about these rivets
leaking as any water seeping through will end up on the outside of the walls.
FIT THE DOOR BRACES AND INSTALL SHED
Fit the door braces, if not already done so. Check that all filings/swarf is removed.
IMPORTANT:
FIX YOUR SHED TO ITS FOUNDATIONS
If your foundations are unlevel or bowed, you will have problems with
your padbolt and door levels. This can be fixed by slipping a spade under
either door jamb and lifting. You will soon get a feel for which side needs
propping up.
IMPORTANT:
• Do not attempt to assemble panels in rain or windy conditions.
• Make sure your foundations are squared and level before erecting panels.
• It is easier to remove all swarf (filings) before you stand your walls up.
• Complete all panels before erecting your shed.
• Keep a firm grip on panels when handling. If they slip they will cause damage.
• Always wear non-slip gloves, protective footwear and eyewear.
It is essential that every shed has a floor, but the only way to make sure your
shed is there to stay on windy sites is with a recessed concrete floor.
Phone 0800 807 433 for free advice or see page 7 for more details.
IMPORTANT GARDEN MASTER HINTS & TIPS
BUILDING YOUR SHED
The basic task is to join the sheets together
to form your panels, then rivet the channels
to the top and bottom of these panels. They
will then join together to form your shed
(diagram 6, 7, 8 and 9).
7
If you choose to vary from these instructions your
warranty will be impaired.
If you need advice, call us FREE on 0800 807 433
or email us at info@gardenmastersheds.co.nz
!
i
KITSET WOODEN FLOORS
Every shed must have a floor. These are available from your local shed dealer.
For more information visit www.gardenmastersheds.co.nz
RECESSED FLOOR CLAMPS
For poured floors with a
recess around the perimeter.
Available from your
shed dealer.
FLAT FLOOR CLAMPS
For existing concrete only.
Water can seep underneath.
Available from your
shed dealer.
BOXING DIAGRAM 20MM - 25MM
(1 ' X 1 ')
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS
APPROX 25MM RECESS
AROUND THE OUTSIDE
25MM
2235MM
INTERNAL
MEASUREMENT
735MM
PEG THE FLOOR TO THE GROUND IN WINDY AREAS
RUNNER
SHED
FLOOR BOARD
SHED
RECESS
20MM - 25MM
8MM BOLT SET INTO CONCRETE
100MM
25MM
25MM
APPROX
20MM - 25MM
2235MM X 735MM
INTERNAL DIMENSIONS FOR THE GM2308:
STEP 7: COMPLETE YOUR SHED
RECESSED CONCRETE FLOOR PLAN FOR
SPECIALLY POURED CONCRETE FLOORS: SPECIFICATIONS
Every shed must have some type of foundation between it and the ground. You can pour a concrete floor and use recessed floor
clamps, use an existing concrete base with flat floor clamps or purchase a kitset wooden floor from your shed dealer.
5. FLAT FLOOR CLAMP
For existing flat concreted areas
using dyna-bolts. (Bolts need to
be ordered separately).
6. RECESSED FLOOR CLAMPS
For specially poured concrete
floors. We recommend the
recessed concrete floor system
as it provides greater protection
from wind lift and moisture
entering under your shed. (Prebent bolts available separately).
7. RECHARGABLE LED
SENSOR LIGHT
Handy for when the light is poor.
Sensor automatically turns the
unit on and off to ensure you can
find what you need even at night.
8. WORKBENCH
This sturdy workbench will be
the perfect addition to your shed.
Made from solid timber with a
handy pegboard for your tools.
(Tools not supplied).
1. SHELF BRACKETS
Hangs from the wall to allow
maximum use of valuable floor
space. Includes 3 x ply shelves,
1200mm x 300mm.
2. TOOL RACKS
6 racks & 2 wallstrips. Keep your
tools off the floor.
3. FLOORS
We offer kitset wooden floors for
every size of shed. Treated timber
sits directly on the ground. The
floor may need pegging into the
ground in windy areas.
4. HOOKS
Coming in a set of four.
WE WOULD REALLY
LIKE YOUR FEEDBACK
Please email your comments to feedback@gardenmastersheds.co.nz or fax us on
06 878 5758. Customer satisfaction is our top priority and we are always on the look
out for ways in which we could do better.
FREE GIFT
To receive your free gift, simply include your details when you send in your feedback,
or send us a photo of your finished shed with your details.
TO HELP YOU WE HAVE LISTED SOME QUESTIONS
THAT YOU MAY LIKE TO ANSWER:
There is no need to type every question, only the question number and your answers
are necessary for us.
1. How did you find out about us?
2. If you found us through our website, was it easy to navigate?
3. Did you find the assembly instructions easy to follow?
4. Where did you purchase your shed?
5. Was the sales person helpful and courteous?
6. What did you like best about your garden shed purchase?
7. Are there any parts of our service that you think we could improve upon?
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
GARDEN MASTER SHED OPTIONAL EXTRAS
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