Ice maker kit should be installed only by an authorized service technician.
WARNING
• To avoid electric shock, which can cause death or severe personal injury, disconnect the refrigerator from electrical
power before connecting a water supply line to the refrigerator.
• Connect the ice maker to a potable water supply only.
CAUTION
To Avoid Property Damage:
• Copper tubing is recommended for the water supply line. Water supply tubing made of ¼ inch plastic should not be
used since it greatly increases the potential for water leaks. The manufacturer will not be responsible for any damage
if plastic tubing is used for the supply line.
• DO NOT install water supply tubing in areas where temperatures fall below freezing.
• Chemicals from a malfunctioning water softener can damage the ice maker. If the ice maker is connected to softened
water, ensure that the softener is maintained and working properly.
The following items will be required to install the ice maker kit:
• ¼ inch copper supply line with shut off valve
• ¼ inch brass compression nut and ferrule
• Freezer shelf (Some models not equipped with shelf). If your model does not have one, contact your dealer to order
one.
The copper tubing and shut off valve are available in a kit from your local hardware or plumbing supply store. Coil enough
tubing at the back of the unit to allow movement for cleaning.
P/N: 240394908
Use This Page to Identify Parts
OR
1. Ice Maker2. Ice Container3. Plastic Water Supply Tubing
• ¼ inch Socket Wrench or Nut Driver• Needle Nose Pliers
• Adjustable Wrench• Power Drill with PhillipsTM bit
• Small Kitchen Knife
2
ICE MAKER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Harness Connector
Remove and Discard Foam
1. Unplug refrigerator from electrical outlet.
2. Remove ice tray rack from freezer (some models).
3. Remove spacer. Remove freezer shelf (some models) by
pushing shelf to left until right side of shelf comes free
from holes. Then slowly lift up and pull shelf free from
holes on right side.
NOTE
On some models, there are two plugs on the left freezer
wall that must be removed. These holes will be used to
mount the Ice Maker (1). (There is also a plug on the back
wall where the water inlet tube (11) will be inserted.)
4. Use a plastic putty knife to remove plugs from inside
freezer compartment. (See Figure 1.)
5. Remove the harness connector cover, where the ice
maker will plug into, by removing the ¼ inch hex head
screw. (See Figure 1.)
¼" Screw
Cover
Exterior
Condenser
AB
C
Figure 2
7. Use small kitchen knife to cut Ice Maker Installation
label on dashed lines located on outside rear panel of
refrigerator in top, right corner. See Figure 3. Push aps
inward until they stick to unit.
Cut on dashed lines
and push in on flaps
Interior
Condenser
Figure 3
Plastic Plugs
Figure 1
NOTE
Your refrigerator may have an exterior condenser, as
shown in Figure 2A, or an interior condenser, shown in
gure 2B. If your refrigerator has an exterior condenser,
it may be necessary to loosen the two brackets on the
right side of the condenser. Then the condenser can be
pulled away from the back of the refrigerator far enough
to gain easy entry during the installation process.
Figure 2C shows the location of the screws and the
cutout on the access cover.
6. Remove screws securing Access Cover to cabinet
(interior condensers only - see gure 2C).
8. If necessary, remove any foam from within access hole
with needle nose pliers.
Figure 4
ICE MAKER
INSTALLATION
ICE MAKER
INSTALLATION
3
9. Push tube seal (12) over threads (Figure 5). Push
Figure 7
plastic water supply tubing (3) into water inlet tube (11)
as far as it will go and nger tighten nylon compression
nut onto threaded end of inlet tube. Tighten another ½
turn with a wrench. DO NOT over-tighten.
(11) Water Inlet
Tube
(3) Water
Tubing
(5) Ice Maker
Mount Screws
Figure 8
(12) Tube Seal
Figure 5
10. Push water inlet tube (11) through small hole where
Installation label was (Figure 6). Rotate while inserting
tube until at surface of inlet tube is tight against back
of refrigerator.
Figure 6
11. Install adjustable leveling bracket (7) on bottom of Ice
Maker (1) with screw (6) (Figure 7). DO NOT tighten
bracket. It will be tightened later in this procedure.
Figure 7
NOTE
It requires the use of both hands to hook up and secure
the Ice Maker to the freezer wall. DO NOT let the Ice
Maker dangle free after the wiring harness is plugged
into the connector on the back freezer wall.
13. Connect wiring harness into connector mounted on the
back freezer panel, just to the left of where the water inlet
tube comes through. The harness connector is keyed so it
will only t one way. Next, slide Ice Maker connector cover
over connector, noting the orientation in Figure 9. (Snap
on top, hook on bottom). The Ice maker connector cover
can then be snapped into place into the back panel or
slid up tight to back panel depending on which version of
back panel you have (see note below). Then, mount Ice
Maker to the two screws (5) you started earlier from Step
12. (See gure 10.) Tighten screws. Make sure water inlet
tube (11) is sitting inside ll cup.
Wire
Harness
Connector
Snap
Snap
Ice Maker
Connector
Cover
Cover Slides
Forward
Leveling
Bracket (7)
12. Start two, long, Ice Maker mounting screws (5) into
freezer wall where plugs were removed in Step 4. Turn
each screw clockwise ve turns (Figure 8).
Screw (6)
Hook
If your back
cover looks like
(A) proceed to
installing ice maker.
If your back cover
looks like (B),
break off snap and
hook on connector
cover using pliers,
then proceed to
installing ice maker.
4
NOTE
Figure 9
AB
Back Covers
Screw (5)
17. Two types of water valves can be used with this kit.
Follow the instructions which applies to the type of
valve supplied with your kit. See Figures 13A and 13B.
For valves with a threaded outlet (Figure 13A), push the
bullet-shaped end of the green tube into the valve and
tighten the plastic nut (nger tight). Then tighten it an
additional ½ turn with a wrench. DO NOT overtighten.
Figure 10
14. Adjust leveling bracket (7) on Ice Maker (1). When the
gap between freezer wall and Ice Maker is the same at
top and bottom, then Ice Maker is level. Tighten screw
(6) when level.
15. Reinstall freezer shelf in lower position. Set ice
container (2) on shelf.
16. Connect wiring harness to water valve. Make sure
connection is tight.
Wiring
Harness
Plug
Fill Tube
Ice
Container
Figure 11
Figure 13A
For valves with a push-in connection with no threads
(Figure 13B), check the green hose to see if it has a
small black mark near the end without the formed tip
and plastic nut. If there is not a mark, use a measuring
tape and marker to place a mark 11/16 inch from the
end. The valve seals against the outside surface of the
tube with an o-ring, so be sure the end of the tube is
clean and not scratched. Grasp the tube just above the
mark and push it rmly into the valve until it bottoms
out. When pushed in to the proper depth, the mark
will line up with the end of the valve tting. If the mark
is not even with the end of the tting, the tube is not
pushed in all the way. To remove the tube, push inward
on the collar at the end of the tting while pulling on
the tube.
Water Valve
(10)
Plastic Water
Tubing (3)
To Icemaker
Fill Tube
Figure 12
NOTE
If your refrigerator has an interior condenser, it’s a good
idea to connect the plastic water supply tubing and the
wiring harness to the water valve prior to mounting the
valve to the rear panel because of space constraints.
Once the valve is mounted, it’s very hard to get your
hands in there to make the necessary connections.
Additionally, the metal tubing may have to be bent
slightly out of the way for the water valve to t in the
space. Do Not kink tubing.
Figure 13B
5
Water Valve
(10)
Plastic Water
Tubing (3)
To Icemaker
Fill Tube
18. Locate factory drilled holes at bottom right corner of
rear panel. Align water valve bracket with factory drilled
holes. You may have to bend the metal tubing slightly
out of the way. Use a power drill with a Phillips® head
bit to drive two self tapping screws (4) through bracket
and into cabinet.
Water Valve (10)
Factory
Punched
Holes
19. Secure plastic water tubing to rear of cabinet with two
plastic clamps (9).
Figure 15
Plastic Clamp (9)
Screw (4)
OR
Water Valve (10)
Factory
Punched
Holes
Screw (4)
Figure 14
NOTE
Clean back of cabinet with a commercial household
cleaner, ammonia or alcohol before applying plastic
clamps to water tubing.
20. Punch out cutout on access cover to allow for water
valve (interior condenser models only).
Figure 16
Cutout
Sound Baffle
21. Remount access cover (interior condenser models only)
and condenser, if it was pulled out of the way because
of space constraints.
6
Connecting Ice Maker to Water Supply
Steel
WARNING
Ice maker kit should be installed only by an authorized
service technician.
WARNING
• To avoid electric shock, which can cause death or
severe personal injury, disconnect the refrigerator from
electrical power before connecting a water supply line
to the refrigerator.
• Connect the ice maker to a potable water supply only.
IMPORTANT
Ensure that your water supply line connections comply
with all local plumbing codes.
Before Installing The Water Supply Line, You Will Need:
Basic tools: adjustable wrench, ¼ inch nut driver, and
PhillipsTM screwdriver.
• Access to a household cold water line with water
pressure between 30 and 100 psi. (2 and 6.9 bar)
• A water supply line made of ¼ inch (6.4 mm) OD, copper
tubing. To determine the length of copper tubing needed,
you will need to measure the distance from the ice maker
inlet valve at the back of the refrigerator to your cold
water pipe. Then add approximately 7 feet (2.1 meters),
so the refrigerator can be moved out for cleaning.
• A shutoff valve to connect the water supply line to your
household water system. DO NOT use a self-piercing
type shutoff valve.
• A compression nut and ferrule (sleeve) for connecting
the water supply line to the ice maker inlet valve.
To Connect Water Supply Line To Ice Maker Inlet Valve
1. Disconnect refrigerator from electric power supply.
2. Place end of water supply line into sink or bucket. Turn ON water supply
and ush supply line until water is clear. Turn OFF water supply at shutoff
valve.
3. Remove plastic cap from water valve inlet and discard cap.
4. Slide brass compression nut, then ferrule (sleeve), onto water supply line,
as shown.
5. Push water supply line into water valve inlet as far as it will go (¼ inch).
Slide ferrule (sleeve) into valve inlet and nger tighten compression nut
onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over tighten.
6. With steel clamp and screw, secure water supply line to rear panel of refrigerator at location as shown.
7. Coil excess water supply line (about 2 ½ turns) behind refrigerator as shown and arrange coils so they do not vibrate
or wear against any other surface.
8. Turn ON water supply at shutoff valve and tighten any connections that leak.
9. Reconnect refrigerator to electric power supply.
10. To turn ice maker on, lower wire signal arm. (See ice maker front cover for on/off position of arm.)
A water line kit is available from your appliance dealer at
additional cost. It contains 25 feet (7.6 meters) of ¼ inch
OD copper tubing, a saddle type shutoff valve (non-piercing),
(2) ¼ inch brass compression nuts, (2) ferrules/sleeves, and
instructions for installing a water supply line.
CAUTION
To Avoid Property Damage:
• Copper tubing is recommended for the water supply line.
Water supply tubing made of ¼ inch plastic should not
be used since it greatly increases the potential for water
leaks. The manufacturer will not be responsible for any
damage if plastic tubing is used for the supply line.
• DO NOT install water supply tubing in areas where
temperatures fall below freezing.
• If the water source uses a water softener, ensure that the
softener is maintained and working properly. Chemicals
from a malfunctioning softener can damage the ice maker.
NOTE
IMPORTANT
It takes approximately 24 hours for the ice maker to begin
producing ice. Air in new plumbing lines may cause ice
maker to cycle two or three times before making a full tray
of ice. New plumbing may cause ice to be discolored or
have poor avor. Discard ice made during the rst 24 hours.
Plastic Water
Tubing to Ice
Maker Fill
Tube
Copper water line
from household
(Include enough tubing in loop
to allow moving refrigerator out
for cleaning.)
Clamp
Brass
Compression
Nut
Ferrule
(Sleeve)
Copper
water line
Water Valve
Bracket
Valve Inlet
Water Valve
water supply
7
Automatic Ice Maker Tips
Remember that water quality determines your ice quality. If the water source uses a water softener, ensure that the
softener is maintained and working properly. Chemicals from a malfunctioning softener can damage the ice maker.
To stop the ice maker, lift the wire signal arm until it clicks and locks in the “up” or OFF position. The ice maker turns
off automatically when the ice container is full. If your model has an adjustable freezer shelf, place the shelf so the wire
signal arm will hit the ice when the ice container is full.
Ice Maker Tips
• Ice stored too long may develop an odd avor. Empty the
container and be sure the wire signal arm is in its “down” or ON
position. The ice maker will then produce more ice.
• Occasionally shake the container to keep ice separated.
• Keep the wire signal arm in its “up” or OFF position until the
refrigerator is connected to the water supply or whenever the
water supply is turned off.
• The following sounds are normal when the ice maker is
operating.
- Motor running
- Ice loosening from tray
- Ice dropping into ice container
- Running water
- Water valve opening or closing
Wire
Signal Arm
ON
OFF
CAUTION
Do Not place the ice container in your dishwasher.
• Wash ice container in warm water with mild detergent. Rinse well and dry.
• Stop the ice maker when cleaning the freezer or for short vacations.
• If the ice maker will be turned off for a long period of time, turn the water supply valve to the closed position.
8
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