- 1 -
Manual Flyke
Fresh Breeze, Langer Acker 11, 30900 Wedemark-Bissendorf.
Tel.+4951303769922, Fax+49 51303769944
www.fresh-breeze.de
Dr.-Ing. Stefan Wode
- 2 -
Content
Manual Flyke....................................................................................................................................1
Content..............................................................................................................................................2
Manual Flyke....................................................................................................................................4
Introduction..................................................................................................................................4
Use of an existing motor..............................................................................................................4
Setup.............................................................................................................................................5
Adjusting the Length...............................................................................................................5
Adjustments for different pilot weights..................................................................................5
Steering.....................................................................................................................................5
Option: wider rear axle............................................................................................................6
Braking.....................................................................................................................................6
Front Brake and Gear Shift.................................................................................................6
Rear Brake............................................................................................................................7
Operating Modes..........................................................................................................................7
Bicycle Mode...........................................................................................................................7
Flight Mode..............................................................................................................................7
Possible Combinations............................................................................................................7
Assembly of the Motor, the Pushrods, the Paraglider and the Recovery System ..............8
Take-Off...................................................................................................................................9
General Information..........................................................................................................10
The „Power-Steering-System“..........................................................................................10
The „Pulling-up Help“ ......................................................................................................10
Seat Belt.............................................................................................................................11
Start Check.........................................................................................................................11
Take-Off Procedure...........................................................................................................12
Flight.......................................................................................................................................12
Landing...................................................................................................................................13
Ground Transportation of the Paraglider with the Flyke ....................................................13
Something about the physical laws behind it...........................................................................13
Maintenance...............................................................................................................................14
Appendix: BulliX...........................................................................................................................15
Operation of the BulliX:...........................................................................................................16
Transportation, Disassembly:....................................................................................................16
Maintenance:..............................................................................................................................16
- 3 -
Views
- 4 -
Manual Flyke
Introduction
Dear Pilot,
We wish you much fun with this extraordinary flying machine.
The certification is planned for the Monster 110 and the Solo 122.
For safe flying you should read this manual carefully, make yourself familiar with the Flyke
and its possibilities.
In addition the Flyke can be used as a powered ground vehicle. This mode is not legal on
public areas.
This manual refers only to the Flyke itself. We assume that the reader is already familiar how
to operate the motor.
Use of an existing motor
The Flyke can be used with already owned Fresh Breeze-engines. But some things have to be
considered:
Due to the limited sideway width we recommend the smaller propeller with a length of 110
cm instead of 122 cm. Accordingly the smaller cage has to be used.
The motor is attached to the Flyke using the “Multi-Purpose-Tubes”. Hooks can be put into
their upper ends. They are locked with spring pins.
In the front side of each tube a 5 mm-hole has to be drilled which is roughly 160 mm far away
from the upper end of the tube. This hole has to accept the steel pin inside the white plastic
clips on the lower engine mount strut of the Flyke.
In addition cable of the gas handle has to be replaced with a 20 cm longer one. The longer
cable is attached with only one cable binder and a distance piece (made from 20 mm rubber
tube) on the left front end of the gas tank strut.
The Flyke is a multi
-
purpose
-
machine. It can be used in mainly 3 modes:
- a high performance recumbent bicycle (without motor)
- as a transportation vehicle for the complete flying equipment
- as a trike for powered paragliding.
- 5 -
Setup
The Flyke is a front driven recumbent bicycle. Its steering system consists of elastomeric
blocks behind the seat. This allows the seat to lean into the curves. Centrifugal side loads can
therefore be compensated.
The engine mount is on the rear end. It can carry a standard backpack paragliding motor.
Adjusting the Length
In order to adjust the length of the Flyke the 2 orange screws have to be loosened. Then the
square tube can be moved into the required position, and you have to
tighten both screws again.
The handle of each screw can be turned relatively to the screw by
pulling it a little bit, turning it and letting it snap back into its
original position.
To maximise ground clearance turn the handle into a back/upright
position.
Shortening of the Flyke is easier if it is tipped onto the rear side, the gravity helps you then.
To make it longer just take place and use your legs to move the front part.
For easier transportation the Flyke can be separated into a front and a rear unit just by pulling
the square tube completely out of the seat structure. Then the whole brake lever and gear shift
unit can be taken of from the steering lever by loosening the clamp screw on the side of the
front brake lever with a 4 mm-Hex key.
Adjustments for different pilot weights
The Flyke has to push rods which have a horizontal in-flight-position. They stabilize the
paraglider and push it forward during take off.
On these push rods there is a bushing which is connected via a steel cable with the seat of the
Flyke. It has an eyelet with the carbine for the steel cable and a Nylon loop for the main
carbine.
The bushing can be fixed in one of three positions with a screw. The front position raises the
front end of the Flyke during flight, the rear lowers it.
Pilots with a weight of 65 to 85 kg should use the center position, from 55 to 65 kg the rear,
and from 85 to 100 kg the front position. The center position is acceptable even for these
weights, but it is more comfortable to use the other ones.
If the bushing is moved into an other position the black pull-up push rod has to be moved
accordingly. It is locked with the same screw.
Steering
Steering of the Flyke is done using a lever on its right side.
- 6 -
Pulling it back (and yourself to the right) makes it curve to the right, pushing it forward (and
yourself to the left side) makes it turn left.
With a little training the upper part of the body can be used to steer it via weight shift. The
steering lever just supports the movement.
Moving the body into the curve allows higher cornering speeds without roll-over. If the Flyke
starts to tilt, slow down, steer straight and move your body into the curve.
Option: wider rear axle
Due to many requests Fresh Breeze offers an optional wider rear axle for the Flyke.
The wheel hubs must be removed from the standard axle and mounted into the new one.
The new axle is then screwed into the old axle mounting. It may be necessary to adjust the
width of the old axle by using a tie belt or something similar.
The new axle has 2 holding plates on each side. The old axle is out between them. Don’t
forget the support tube inside (2nd picture). The 3rd pic shows an assembled rear axle.
Now the width can be adjusted by using the quick pin. Move the outer axle part to the
required position and lock it there with the quick pin.
Secure the brake cable with a cable tie close to the wheel. Check the quick pins and brake
cable attachment prior to each use.
Braking
The Flyke has two independent brakes systems: A cable operated roller brake at the front
wheel, and two hydraulic actuated rear drum brakes.
As a result of the low center of gravity the Flyke can’t tilt even if the wheels are blocked. So
the maximum deceleration can be higher than regular bikes.
Front Brake and Gear Shift
The integrated gear shift / brake hub of the Flyke has a freewheel function. To snub one pedal
can be moved into the best position for maximum force.
The front brake lever is on the right side of the Flyke on the steering lever. Here is an set
screw if the length of the brake cables has to be adjusted.
The roller brake precisely controlled even under wet conditions. Unlike regular brakes it
works with steel friction elements and has to be lubricated from time to time! The hub has a
grease hole on the left side which is sealed with a little grey plastic closure.
For further information please refer to the Shimano brake manual.
The 7-speed gear is operated with the grip shift lever, which is on the right side of the Flyke at
the steering lever as well. There the actual gear is displayed.
As already mentioned, the whole unit with the grip shift lever and the brake handle can be
taken of after loosening one screw of the brake handle, if the Flyke has to be separated into 2
parts.
When the Flyke is re-assembled, check the right position of the cables!
- 7 -
Rear Brake
The rear brake is a hydraulic operated drum brake. The rear brake
lever is underneath the left seat tube.
The brake system has a lifetime filling of hydraulic fluid which
usually never has to be replaced or refilled.
If the brakes have to be adjusted there are 3 ways to do so: At the
brake lever there is a little hex set screw which adjusts the distance
between brake lever and the brake piston.
And at each wheel cylinder there is a thread under the rubber
sealing. The length of the push rod can be adjusted by taking the
brake cylinder off after removing the 4mm-E-rings.
The right setting makes it possible to lock the rear wheels, but if the
brake lever isn’t actuated both wheels have to run free.
Operating Modes
The already mentioned different operation modes are the result of different configurations of
the motor, the push rods and the paraglider.
Bicycle Mode
If the Flyke shall be used just as a recumbant bicycle, everything
can be removed which is not necessary for biking: The motor and
the push rods with cables. The foot rests can be moved to an upright
position.
Flight Mode
When the Flyke is used as a paraglider trike, the engine has to be
attached in the right manner, the push rods have to be moved into an
upright position, the paraglider has to be
attached to the main carbines, the recovery
system has to be installed, and it is
recommended to move the foot rests into
their horizontal position. During long flights this is more
comfortable, plus the risk of hurting the feet during take off or
landing is much smaller.
Possible Combinations
For short distances it is sufficient to move the foot rest upright. Now
the regular pedals can be used.
In addition the push rods can be moved downwards without
removing them.
- 8 -
From a technical point of view it is possible to use the motor on the ground as well. But this is
not an intended use and will be covered by no warranty. And it may be not legal depending on
the specific regulations of your country.
Assembly of the Motor, the Pushrods, the Paraglider and the Recovery
System
The motor is attached with 2 hooks on the upper engine mount strut. These hooks sit in the
upper ends of the “Multi-Purpose-Tubes” at the motor front. They are locked with spring
loaded pins. Check these pins very carefully: They have to be completely moved out!
The lower engine mount strut has 2 clips which have to surround the “Multi-Purpose-Tubes”.
The steel pins in the clips have to sit in the corresponding holes in the tube.
This connection is secured with a short tie belt as shown on the picture. So the engine can’t
come loose accidentally.
The throttle cable must be brought through the “A”-strut of the Flyke.
During long flights or during bike tours it can be put into the hole at the
end of the steering lever.
Being alone it is easier to put the engine onto the
engine mount by raising the front wheel of the Flyke,
until the engine mount is low enough to take the
motor hooks. So the engine can be easily attached.
The two pushrods sit in each side of the upper seat
tube. They are locked against being accidentally
pulled out by spring loaded pins. These pins work as well as a hard stop
when the struts are moved from the flight into the drive position. Please
avoid excessive loads in the end positions in order not to overload these
pins and their seats.
The upper position of these struts is determined by the length of the
white steel cables during the flight. The lower end of the cables is
attached with a screw carbine at the lower seat strut. If both push rods
are taken of for biking these carbines can be opened and the cable
removed as well.
.
The two 8mm-bungee cords hold the push rods in their upright position. They are hooked
into the rear eyelets on the push rods and onto the most upper rope on the front side of the
motor.
- 9 -
The pulling-up help shortens the A-risers during take-off as long as the paraglider is behind
the push rods. During biking the stainless steel hook of the orange rising line can be hooked
into the eyelet of the push rod, and the rising line can be shortened by pulling the 6mm
bungee cord out of the rear side of the push rod. This bungee cord has a plastic hook which
can also be put into the eyelet of the white steel cables.
For flying this rubber cord must be unhooked and the rising line
must be completely pulled out of the push rod. The stainless steel
carbine has to be hooked into the A-line carbine. Please check that
the riser is running free! This means, that it doesn’t run accidentally
around the throttle cable or so.
The throttle cable must be outside the white steel cable during flight!
It is more comfortable to unbutton the brake line handle from the
risers and to put it over the push rod before taking off. There you can easily pick it up after
taken seat and having buckled up.
The recovery system can be mounted on the safety belt on the breast
or on the head rest behind the head. Most important is that its handle
can be reached easily. The V-Line is attached into the main carbines
where the paraglider is attached as well. It must run free of other
parts, but it may run under the 8 mm rubber cords which are used to
hold the push rods upright.
The paraglider is hooked into the main carbines so that the A-lines
show to the front and the D-lines to the back, if the risers are in the
upright flight position. This is the same as flying without any motor.
In order to keep the lines sorted we recommend to tape a big plastic
cable binder on to the outside of the cage as shown in the picture.
Then the lines can be clamped into this place.
Take-Off
In this manual we only describe how to operate the Flyke. You should be already familiar
with your motor.
- 10 -
General Information
The Flyke is smaller than regular trikes. Otherwise it wouldn’t fit to the width of sideways. If
the paraglider pulls to the side the Flyke can easier roll over than wider standard trikes.
Therefore it is necessary to keep the paraglider more or less vertical above the Flyke, and to
let it not pull more than 30° to the side.
The „Power-Steering-System“
If the paraglider moves to the side during it comes up, it must be corrected with the brakes,
and the trike must be steered under the paraglider. This is only possible if the ground speed of
the trike is high enough. So the maximum wind speed must be much smaller than the take-off
speed of the used paraglider.
Fresh Breeze recommends to fly only, if the wind speed is slower than 10 km/h. If the
conditions are gusty we don’t recommend flying at all.
Regular paraglider trikes can be steered with the feet during takeoff. If the paraglider goes to
the side the trike can follow. Due to the front drive the Flyke cannot be steered with the feet.
But the hands have to control the paraglider. So Fresh Breeze developed a “Power-SteeringSystem”. The length and the geometry of the push rods are designed to steer the Flyke if the
paraglider pulls to the side. The whole front of the Flyke is pulled to the side as well and
makes the Flyke move to the same side.
As the paraglider provides much more force than required for steering the movement of the
steering system has to be limited by a bungee cord on the left side of the seat. A rope handle is
used to pull the rubber loop around the cap nut.
Well trained pilots may take off without this help, but this requires much experience with the
paraglider as the Flyke follows even the smallest movement of the glider.
Fresh Breeze
recommends to
use always the
rubber loop in the
flight mode.
The „Pulling-up Help“
The Flyke is equipped with the tried and proven “pulling-up help” like it’s predecessor, the
Skip 1.
This makes the take-off procedure much easier as the A-risers must not
be manually shortened by the pilot. When the Flyke starts to roll the
paraglider comes automatically above the Flyke.
For take-off the 6 mm rubber cord must be unhooked and the rising line
must be completely pulled out of the push rods. The stainless steel
carbine must be hooked into the carbine of the A-lines. Check the
clearance of the riser, e.g. it must not run around the throttle cable
- 11 -
accidentally.
During flight the throttle cable must be outside of the right steel cable!
The correct length setting of the rising line is adjusted be pushing or pulling the free end of
the orange line through the black push rod. If all lines are hold in the vertical flying position
the orange line should just be tight. Secure the free end at the black push tube with a knot,
wrap the end around it and secure it with a piece of Velcro. If you’re using a Silex, the
correct length including the carbine is 63 cm.
Seat Belt
The Flyke is equipped with a 4-point seat belt like some sport cars.
The belt lock is located in the middle of the 4 belts, each length can be
adjusted individually.
Start Check
The check procedure can be separated into two parts:
- A check of the complete mechanical set-up, especially all joints, screws and rubber
elements. Look for damage and check for tight seats.
- And the check of the correct start configuration.
The first check is the same as you usually do with your motor, but now the complete Flyke is
included.
The second check includes this points:
- Is the paraglider laid out properly and connected in the right manner with the Flyke?
- Propeller clear?
- Are all lines clear?
- Are they all in the plastic cable binder on each the cage side?
- Are the push rods in their upper position?
- Are the brake lines free and the handles on the push rods?
- All carbines closed?
- Throttle cable outside the right steel cable?
- 6mm rubber cords unhooked?
- Are the bushings on the push tubes in their correct position according to the pilot
weight and locked with a screw?
- Are both orange rising lines completely pulled out, adjusted to the right length and
hooked into the carbine of the A-risers?
- Steering lever blocked with the rubber loop?
- Foot rests in the horizontal position?
- Fuel tap open?
- Choke?
- Main switch on?
- Buckled up?
- Feet in the foot rest?
- Runway clear?
There are several possible ways for the throttle cable. We recommend to take it under the
right arm.
- 12 -
Take-Off Procedure
Before you start the paraglider must be layed out behind the Flyke, and all the lines have be
connected correctly to the Flyke. The Flyke has to be pulled as much forward as possible. The
lines must be more or less straight. If the Flyke is too close to the rear edge of the paraglider,
the glider will get a sudden impulse when you take off.
This may lead to high peak loads in the glider, reducing its lifetime, as well as to an
overloading of the push rods: Their steel cables are not supporting horizontal loads, only
vertical loads!
A horizontal overload of the pushrod may result in a damaged seat by bending the upper
horizontal seat strut!
When you are buckled up and after having the wind checked (always take off and land against
the wind!!) the throttle lever is taken into the right had (cable under the right arm or close to
its outside, both is possible), and both brake handles are taken from the pushrods into the
hands.
Now the engine can be started. If you don’t have an electric starter you can do so before you
take seat, but take care that you always stand in front of the seat so that the Flyke can’t roll.
Now open the brakes, give gas gradually and watch the paraglider carefully by turns over both
shoulders.
If the paraglider doesn’t come up symmetrically correct it immediately with the brakes. Is this
not longer possible stop the start! Shut off the engine and pull the paraglider with the brakes
If the paraglider is not laying symmetrically behind the Flyke on the ground, you can open it
and lay it down in the right manner by giving gas for a short moment.
As the Flyke is controlled on the ground just be steering the paraglider it is absolutely
important to control the paraglider precisely all the time. Otherwise stop the start!
Once the paraglider is over the Flyke it may be necessary to brake it a little bit, otherwise it
may go forward to much and drop over.
Remember: Curves are made just with the paraglider, the Flyke will follow. Look up very
often, the start area must be free anyway.
After a few seconds with full gas the Flyke will take off and fly. Depending on the wind the
take-off distance will be ca. 3 – 20 m.
Flight
Flying the Flyke is very similar to flying a standard backpack motor
system.
But due to the additional rubber elements vibrations are much less than
usual.
During long flights the throttle lever can be clamped in the required
position, and put into the hole in the steering lever. To maintain a straight
flight it may be possible to trim the paraglider correspondingly.
- 13 -
Landing
Landing the Flyke is much easier than a with a regular backpack motor as the forward speed
doesn’t play an important roll. But it is essential to land straight against the wind. If the Flyke
is already very slow and the glider would pull to the side it is not longer possible to drive
under the glider. To minimize the potential risk of roll over the paraglider has to be controlled
until came completely down!
The Flyke is tested up to sink rates during touch down up to 2 m/sec which it can withstand
without damage. But this wouldn’t be very comfortable.
So the paraglider should be flared as you do with a standard backpack motor. After the
landing the motor should be switched off so that it can’t blow into the glider. You can switch
it even off when still airborne.
Ground Transportation of the Paraglider with the
Flyke
The folded paraglider can be stowed away behind the seat. Just put
the transportation sack into the gap between seat and A-strut. The
paraglider lays on the rear axle.
Moving the push rods down gives you an additional lateral hold. The
8 mm rubber cords may be used fix the sack in addition.
Something about the physical laws behind it
The Flyke design is focused on high speed in curves and the possibility to steer it via the
paraglider during take off. Another issue is the simple and lightweight design of the front
wheel unit.
This leads to a negativ caster length – a pushed and not pulled front wheel. Any centrifugal
load due to fast cornering will therefor force the Flyke to steer into that curve causing even
higher centrifugal loads. This will de-stabilize its run.
As we still have the need for a stable straight ahead run we use 2 gas operated compression
springs. They align the front wheel with the rest of the flyke and compensate centrifugal
loads.
Their force keeps constant at any speed, but the centrifugal load will increase with rising
speeds. So at a certain level the de-stabilizing centrifugal load will become higher than the
stabilizing spring force.
This speed is depending on the pilot weight, the length of the Flyke and the wear (internal
pressure) of the gas springs and may be between 35-40 km/h.
At such high speeds the Flyke may run without any problems for a certain time, but even
small inputs like potholes or so may cause the Flyke to toggle from one side to the other and
finally roll over, especially if the driver isn’t experienced and prepared to react.
Higher spring forces would increase this critical speed, but also make the Flyke less handy at
usual speeds. As it is intended to be used as a recumbent bike we found a certain compromise
between high speed stability and good handling.
But this leads to the fact that the Flyke is not designed to be driven with engine power on the
ground! As the direction of the prop blast changes with the steering angle as well this is also
de-stabilizing the whole system.
On steep hills (on private area only!) the engine may be used at idle speed to support the
pedaling, but nor more than that!!!
- 14 -
Maintenance
There’s no special maintenance required for the Flyke. Clean it like any other bicycle. Avoid
aggressive chemicals and steam cleaner as moisture may be pressed through ball bearing
sealings.
The roller brake has to be lubricated from time to time according to it’s specific manual. If the
brakes don’t work correct they may have to be re-adjusted.
The rubber joints have a critical function in the steering system so they have to be checked
carefully for cracks and delamination.
- 15 -
Appendix: BulliX
The Flyke was developed to meet the wishes for individual freedom in the air as well as on
the ground. But therefore such a device must be more fragile than a standard trike. And due to
the pedal drive the front wheel cannot be foot steered in a traditional manner.
After many requests we developed a modular system to extend the possibilities of the Flyke.
With a classic front frame including foot steering, a wider wheel base and wheels with larger
footprints and once again enlarged wheel travel we created the “BulliX”.
The BulliX comes in 2 versions with different wheel sizes:
Version „Big Wheel“
Version „Low Rider“
- 16 -
Both versions feature a front frame with a telescopic fork for foot steering. The auto-steering
systems is de-activated by replacing of the gas springs with solid plastic rods. There is no
longer any need to lock the steering lever with bungee cords nor for the steering lever either.
The front fork may be equipped with a wheel brake, which is operated with the left foot.
There is no longer a brake on the rear wheels.
For a short (some 100 m) transportation on NOT PUBLIC roads we offer a stainless steel
trailing device. It features 2 hooks which are put over the front axle. Then the whole device is
moved upwards, until the U-shaped profiles grab around the fork tubes.
If the ground is very rough there may be an additional lock helpful by the means of a velcro
tape around the fork tubes. A car with a trailing hook can now easily be used for towing.
Speed must not exceed 30 km/h!
Operation of the BulliX:
The operation of the BulliX is basically the same as the Flyke. Length adjustment is done as
usually with the 2 set screws under the seat.
Steering is done by the feet. Put your heels into the pedals for a good control.
As there is no weight shift steering there is no need to block the steering system with a bungee
cord as it must be done at the Flyke.
If your version of the BulliX got a front brake it can be activated with the left foot. As there is
only the front brake, the brake efficiency is less than the one of the Flyke.
Basically the brake is only meant to prevent being pulled backwards by the wind.
If the canopy is not exactly aligned with the BulliX during rolling, the steered front wheel
must be used to center the trike under the canopy again. Otherwise the canopy may pull the
trike so much, that it finally may roll over.
Transportation, Disassembly:
In the same manner as the Flyke the BulliX can be taken apart by removing the whole front
part after the screws under the seat were untightened.
As there is no need any more to make the BulliX as small as a bicycle way, we increased the
wheel base. For easier transportation the wheels can be removed. Take the 2 foldable pins out
of the axles and pull the wheel studs out of the axle.
In a second step the width can be further reduced by removing the whole fibre reinforced axle
out of its holders. Unscrew the M6 screws. Don’t use the lock nuts again (or use blue medium
Loctite).
Maintenance:
Maintenance is the same as for the standard Flyke. But you must make sure that there is
enough lubrication at the fork tubes. They run in plastic bushings. Are they dry, the
suspension becomes ineffective.
- 17 -
For lubrication use silicone oil or Teflon spray or weapon oil. Don’t use mineral based oils as
the plastic bushings may swell. Apply the lubricant on the stainless steel tubes and move them
up and down a couple of times to distribute the oil.
Inflate the balloon tires softly, pressure must be between 0,3 und 0,5 bar (max). The smaller
tires of the low rider version require 1,8 up to 2,5 bar.
Enjoy!
Loading...