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perfect bevels everytime
fig. 41 Anti-clockwise to lower blade
fig. 42 Ideal blade depth
Changing & Adjusting the Blade Depth
Cutting Position
Over & Under Cuts
fig. 43
fig. 44
Changes to the Depth Adjustment Screw moves the depth stop..
ie the blade travels further. It does not actually lower the blade.
1. The blade is held in place with one central screw.
2. Release and remove the used blade by removing the central screw.
3 The blades are packed in packs of 5 or 10 and can be used both ends.
4. Fit a new blade into the handle with the sharp edge down.
5. Replace the central screw.
The cutting depth of the blade can be adjusted using the allen key supplied.
Rotate the depth adjustment screw, located in the base of the cutting head, anticlockwise
to lower the blade (see fig. 41). One full turn lowers the blade by approximately 0.1mm.
The blade should only just protrude through the mount board for a clean and easy cut.
Measure the depth against a sample of the mount board as shown in fig. 42.
Note 1: When using the bevel cutter on your machines always have a slip mat in position under
the mount being cut. Use a piece of standard mount board cut to size.
Note 2: Hooks - If the blade is set to low it may flex and cause a small “hook” at the start of the
cut. Set the depth correctly - see fig.42.
Cutting a new mount takes very little effort.
The way you hold and push the cutting head is important as it effects the quality of the cut.
To start cutting, push the blade firmly into the mount board so that the blade penetrates all the
way through the mount board. Before starting to cut, lower your arm, so that you are cutting
along the line, rather than pushing downwards (see fig. 43).
If you find that cutting is hard work review your cutting position and lower your arm a little
to make it easier.
Always practice on a spare board before making your first cut, or after changing the blade depth.
Do not use self healing plastic mats under the cutting rail. Strips of standard mount board are
best suited as slip mats.
Make sure you are not cutting into old cuts in the slip mat as these may cause the blade to cut
away from the rail. The slip mat stop (see fig. 44) can be located into any slot so that any sized
piece of mount board can be used under the cutting rail as a slip mat.
The stop can be located in any one of the grooves in the base board.
Over Cuts
If the blade depth is adjusted correctly, then any over cuts will be due to YOU cutting too far past the top finishing line or starting
too early before the bottom start line. Adjust YOUR starting and stopping position to eliminate these over cuts.
Under Cuts
If the drop out does not fall out after cutting your mount, do not push it out as this may tear the corners. Take a spare blade and
extend the cut so that the centre piece falls out. The ideal is to have the centre fall out each time with no over cuts and no
undercuts. As with over cuts, if you find that the mat is undercut then simply adjust your starting and stopping position relative to
the start and stop lines ie. start a little earlier and finish a little further. You have to find the ideal start and stop posi tion relative to
the size pencil you use (2H is ideal), and how you draw the line (holding the pencil close against the rail is ideal).
7
fig. 40
Standard Blade
Deep Cut Blade
Cutting a Double Mount
A Double or Triple Mat on an image will add more interest to the design of your framing.
By choosing colours that compliment the picture, the image will be enhanced and become
sharper. These colours will also help lead the eye from the frame into the picture, which is
the central focus.
The “secret” to cutting double mounts, so that the inner mount is exactly parallel to the
outer, is not to cut two separate mounts! You can achieve perfect double mounts every time
by following the method below.
The best way, is to cut the top first, stick the two together,
then cut the bottom mount.
Here is how to do it: -
Example: 20cm x 30cm double mount with 6cm border.
1. Cut the blank for the top mount 20 x 30cm. Cut the blank for the bottom mount a little
smaller - 19 x 29cm (see fig. 13).
2. Cut out the window in the top mount with a 5.5cm border, keep the fallout
(see fig. 14).
Note: (I) As we are cutting a double mount the top border size needs to be 5mm
smaller to show the bottom mount.
(II) Remember, we cut all mounts from the reverse side - so all our pencil
markings are on the back of the mount.
3. Place the top mount face down on your table top. Replace the drop out back into the
hole (see fig. 15).
4. Apply strips of double sided tape to the back of the mount, plus an extra piece in the
centre of the drop out. Then attach the bottom mount face down to the rear of the top
mount (see fig. 16).
5. Now mark out on the back of the bottom mount for a 6cm border - use the outer edges
of the top mount as your reference edge for measuring (see fig. 17).
The reason for cutting the bottom mount smaller is to ensure that you use the top
mounts outer edges for both border measurements. That way the sides of the double
mount will be parallel .
Hints: (I) To cut a triple mat repeat the procedure used on the bottom mat, you are only
limited by your own imagination.
(II) The cutting head should always be inside the window you are cutting.
A new mat blade is cheaper than new mat board so always use a sharp blade.
fig. 13
top mount
bottom mount
fig. 14
fig. 15
fig. 16 Apply double sided
tape to back of mount
fig. 17
Stepped (Offset)
Combination Mount
Inset Mount
Double Mount
Combination Mount
Stepped (Offset) Mount
Single Mount
X
Slip Mats